DE102011089028A1 - Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratin fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic agents for the cosmetic treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising i) at least one compound of the formula (I) in which R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, R 2 is a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4) -alkyl group or is a (C 2 to C 4) -hydroxyalkyl group, R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a group with n = 1 or 2, M is independently a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation, and ii) at least one compound of the formula (II) M independently represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation. n is 1 or 2 and R 1 is a (C 8 to C 22) alkyl group, a mono- or polyunsaturated (C 8 to C 22) alkenyl group, or a group R 2 - (O-CH 2 CH 2) m - * in which m is an integer from 1 to 20, especially from 1 to 10, and R 2 represents a (C 8 to C 22) alkyl group or a mono- or polyunsaturated (C 8 to C 22) alkenyl group, and iii) at least one setting polymer, and iv ) Water are storage stable and cause a durable styling with good hair care.

Description

The present invention relates to the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.

Healthy hair and a pleasing-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. In general, the human feels dull hair or thin hair as an aesthetic blemish. If the hair is exposed to environmental influences, e.g. Exposed to UV radiation, mechanical stress or free radicals, the hair structure can be adversely affected. This affects the external appearance. In so-called hair splitting, e.g. The hair tips are visibly degenerated in their hair structure and make the hair look sick and unhealthy. With natural shine and fullness of hair, man associates an ideal of beauty that he seeks to claim for himself. He also wants to bring the hair in a pleasing form (hairstyle) and fix this form. Cosmetic agents which protect the hair or change the properties of the hair in such a way that the appearance of the hair approximates the desired ideal of beauty serve as aids.

Corresponding means for temporary shaping usually contain fixing polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The use as foamed by means of propellant cosmetic is widely accepted, since foams can be easily and evenly distributed on the hair. However, the foams must fulfill a special requirement profile so that the application can be carried out optimally and the effect of the polymers on the hair can develop accordingly. The foams must form quickly, remain stable for a short time and break on the hair, so that no permanent foam hood is formed. The foam must not strain the hair, otherwise the imprinted hairstyle hangs out and is therefore lost.

The most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of setting polymer used, but also an influence of the other components of the styling agent and the type of application may be given.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it leads to the formation of so-called film plaques, that is, residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would have dandruff.

In order to additionally care for the keratinic fibers during the temporary reshaping, care agents are additionally added to the cosmetic products which do not or only very slightly dissolve in water. When combining setting polymers with water-insoluble ingredients, even with the addition of emulsifiers, it is not always ensured that the resulting cosmetic compositions either retain the desired aforementioned strengthening properties or that the insoluble ingredients are stably incorporated into an aqueous medium in the presence of the setting polymers can.

Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a cosmetic agent with propellant available, which is characterized by a high degree of hold. Furthermore, the agent should simultaneously have a flexible hold and show a high care performance. The formation of film plaques - especially the formation of corresponding residues in the application, the brushing and the drying of the keratin-containing fiber - should be avoided. If the means are designed as foam, the foam should form quickly, only when applied to the hair will begin to break significantly. Furthermore, a foam should be provided which does not stress the hair.

It has now been found that this is achieved by a combination of two special nonionic surfactants.

• i) mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (I)
  
  worin R¹ einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest bedeutet, R² für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe oder eine (C₂ bis C₄)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe steht, R³ für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Gruppe
  
  mit n = 1 oder 2, M unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom oder ein Äquivalent eines ein- oder mehrwertigen Kations bedeutet, und
• ii) mindestens eine Verbindung der Formel (II)
  
  M unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom oder ein Äquivalent eines ein- oder mehrwertigen Kations bedeutet. n für 1 oder 2 steht und R¹ steht für eine (C₈ bis C₂₂)-Alkylgruppe, eine einfach oder mehrfach ungesättigte (C₈ bis C₂₂)-Alkenylgruppe oder für eine Gruppe R²-(O-CH₂CH₂)_m-*, in der m für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, insbesondere von 1 bis 10, steht und R² eine (C₈ bis C₂₂)-Alkylgruppe oder eine einfach oder mehrfach ungesättigte (C₈ bis C₂₂)-Alkenylgruppe bedeutet, und
• iii) mindestens ein festigendes Polymer, und
• iv) Wasser.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for the cosmetic treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing

• i) at least one compound of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R ^{1 is} a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) hydroxyalkyl group, R ^{3 is} a hydrogen atom or a group
  
  with n = 1 or 2, M is independently a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation, and
• ii) at least one compound of the formula (II)
  
  M independently represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation. n is 1 or 2 and R ¹ is a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) alkyl group, a mono- or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) alkenyl group or a group R ² - (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _m - *, in which m is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10, and R ^{2 is} a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) -alkyl group or a mono- or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) Alkenyl group, and
• iii) at least one setting polymer, and
• iv) water.

According to the invention, keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.

According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol * stands for a free valence of the corresponding structural fragment.

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl.

Examples of (C ₂ to C ₄ ) hydroxyalkyl groups according to the invention are 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl, 2-hydroxypropyl and 4-hydroxybutyl.

A hydrocarbon radical according to the invention consists exclusively of carbon and hydrogen.

The radicals R ^{1 of} the formula (I) preferably stand for a (C ₉ to C ₂₃ ) -alkyl group or a (C ₉ to C ₂₃ ) -alkenyl group having up to four unsaturated double bonds, particularly preferably independently of one another, selected from the list that is formed from nonyl, undecyl, tridecyl, pentadecyl, Heptadecyl, nonadecyl, henicosanyl, 15-methylhexadecyl, heptadec-8-enyl, heptadeca-8,11-dienyl, nonadeca-4,7,10,13-tetraenyl and heptadeca-8,11,14-trienyl.

The radical R ² according to formula (I) preferably represents a radical selected from the group consisting of hydrogen atom, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl and 2-hydroxyethyl. Particularly preferably, said radical R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. In the event that R ^{3 is} a hydrogen atom, R ^{2 is} preferably a methyl group.

steht, steht R² bevorzugt für ein Wasserstoffatom.
R³ gemäß Formel (I) steht besonders bevorzugt für ein Wasserstoffatom. In the event that R ^{3 is} for a group

R ^{2 is} preferably a hydrogen atom.
R ³ according to formula (I) particularly preferably represents a hydrogen atom.

When the compounds of the formula (I) are present as acid, the radical M is a hydrogen atom. When the compounds of formula (I) are in the form of a salt, M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation. The monovalent or polyvalent cation M ^{z +} each having a charge number z of one or higher serves merely to neutralize the charge of the carboxylate fragment -COO ^{(-) of} the formula (I) which is present during salt formation, for reasons of electroneutrality. The equivalent of the corresponding cation to be used is 1 / z. The fragment -COOM of the formula (I) in the case of salt formation stands for the group: -COO ^(-) 1 / z (M ^{z +} )

In principle, all physiologically compatible cations are suitable as mono- or polyvalent cations M ^{z +} . In particular, these are metal cations of the physiologically acceptable metals from groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, VIa or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, ammonium ions, as well as cationic organic compounds with quaternized nitrogen atom. The latter are formed for example by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid, such as with compounds of formula (I) in their acidic form, or by permanent quaternization of said organic amines. Examples of these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol. M or M 'in the formulas (I) preferably represents a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an alkali metal ion, half an equivalent of an alkaline earth metal ion or half an equivalent of a zinc ion, more preferably a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, a sodium ion, a potassium ion , ½ calcium ion, ½ magnesium ion or ½ zinc ion.

The said with respect to the radical M for formula (I) (vide supra) applies mutatis mutandis for the sulfonic acid group of the formula (II).

The compounds of formula (I) are preferably selected from at least one compound from the group formed from N-lauroyl sarcosine, N-myristoyl sarcosine, N-palmitoyl sarcosine, N-oleyl sarcosine, N-cocoyl sarcosine (wherein here is a mixture of compounds and cocoyl corresponds to the composition of the fatty acid cut of coconut oil), N-palm kernel sarcosine (here being a mixture of compounds and palm kernel corresponds to the fatty acid cut composition of palm kernel oil), N-lauroylglutamate, N-myristoylglutamate, N-palmitoylglutamate, N-oleylglutamate, N Cocoylglutamate (in which case a mixture of compounds is present and cocoyl corresponds to the composition of the fatty acid fraction of coconut oil), N-palm kernel glutamate (wherein a mixture of compounds is present and palm kernel corresponds to the composition of the fatty acid cut of palm kernel oil), and from the salts (in particular the Sodium salts) of the aforementioned compounds. Most preferably, the compounds of formula (I) are selected from at least one compound selected from N-lauroyl sarcosine, N-myristoyl sarcosine, N-palmitoyl sarcosine, N-oleyl sarcosine, N-cocoyl sarcosine (here a mixture of Compounds is present and cocoyl the composition of the fatty acid cut of coconut oil corresponds), N-palm kernel sarcosine (which here is a mixture of compounds and palm kernel corresponds to the composition of the fatty acid cut of palm kernel oil) and the salts (especially the sodium salts) of the aforementioned compounds.

The triglycerides of coconut oil have the following fatty acid composition: 45 to 51% lauric acid 16 to 19% tetradecanoic 8 to 10% oleic acid 9 to 11% palmitic 6 to 9% decanoic 5 to 8% octanoic

The triglycerides of palm kernel oil have the following fatty acid composition: 47 to 52% lauric acid 16 to 19% tetradecanoic 10 to 18% oleic acid 6 to 9% palmitic 2 to 3 % stearic acid 1 to 3 % linoleic acid 2 to 5% decanoic 1 to 3 % octanoic

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the compounds of the formula (I) in an amount of from 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

It is inventively preferred if according to formula (II) n is 1.

It is preferred according to the invention if R ^{1 of} the formula (II) is a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) -alkyl group or a mono- or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) -alkenyl group, more preferably a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) Alkyl group. Particularly preferred radicals R ^{1 of} the formula (II) are selected from at least one radical of the group which is formed from octyl, decyl, dodecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl, octadec-9-en-1-yl and octadecyl.

The compounds of the formula (II) are very particularly preferably selected from one or more representatives of the group which is formed from salts of the sulfoacetic acid dodecyl ester, salts of the sulfoacetic acid ester, salts of the sulfoacetic acid tetradecyl ester, salts of the sulfoacetic acid hexadecyl ester, salts of the sulfoacetic acid octadecyl ester. In each case again the sodium salts are preferred. On bevorzugtesten is the compound of formula (II) is a sodium salt of Sulfoessigsäuredodecylesters (according to formula (II): n = 1, M = Na, R ¹ = dodecyl).

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the compounds of the formula (II) in an amount of from 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

The compounds of the formula (I) and the formula (II) are preferably in a weight ratio of

According to the invention, polymers are understood to mean compounds which are different from the compounds of the formulas (I) and (II) and which have a molecular weight of at least 10,000 g / mol. The polymers are composed of a plurality of molecules in which one or more kinds of atoms or atomic groupings (so-called constitutive units, basic building blocks or repeating units) are repeatedly arranged in a row. The polymers are obtained by polyreaction, the latter being synthetic (i.e., synthetic) or natural.

Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.

Film-forming polymers are furthermore understood as meaning those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent film on the hair.

According to the invention, cosmetic products which contain at least one solidifying, non-ionic polymer and / or at least one consolidating, cationic polymer are best suited according to the invention.

The polymers, in particular the setting polymers, are particularly preferred in an amount of 0.1% by weight to 15.0% by weight, in particular of 1.0% by weight to 12.0% by weight preferably from 2.0 to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition containing

Within the scope of a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, as additional fixing polymer, at least one consolidating nonionic polymer.

The additional strengthening, nonionic polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 1.0% by weight to 8.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 2.0 wt .-% to 6.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive compositions.

• – Homopolymeren und nichtionischen Copolymeren des N-Vinylpyrrolidons,
• – nichtionischen Copolymeren des Isobutens,
• – nichtionischen Copolymeren des Maleinsäureanhydrids.

The setting, nonionic polymers are again preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group being formed

• Homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,
• Nonionic copolymers of isobutene,
• - nonionic copolymers of maleic anhydride.

Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE.

Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed under the trade name Vinac ^® as an emulsion from Air Products.

• – Copolymer aus Maleinsäureanhydrid und Methylvinylether,
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidon,
• – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat,

oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren enthalten, sind erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt. Dabei sind wiederum solche erfindungsgemäßen Mittel bevorzugt, die als festigendes, nichtionisches Polymer mindestens ein Polymer ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus

• – Polyvinylpyrrolidon,
• – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat,

oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren enthalten. Composition comprising at least one polymer selected from the group formed as a solidifying, nonionic polymer

• Copolymer of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether,
• - polyvinylpyrrolidone,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

or mixtures of these polymers are very particularly preferred according to the invention. In this case, those agents according to the invention which, as the consolidating nonionic polymer, are at least one polymer selected from the group which is formed, are in turn preferred

• - polyvinylpyrrolidone,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

or mixtures of these polymers.

When copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids containing 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, are used, it is again preferred to use when the molar ratio of the structural units comprised of the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer contained in the monomer of vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms (in particular vinyl acetate) is in the range from 20 to 80 to 80 to 20, in particular 30 to 70 to 70 to 30, lies.

Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE.

Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

worin
R für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe steht,
R’, R’’ und R’’ unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C₁ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe,
X steht für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH,
A steht für eine Ethan-1,2,-diylgruppe oder eine Propan-1,3-diylgruppe,
n 1 oder 3 bedeutet. A fixing, cationic polymer which is preferably suitable according to the invention is at least one consolidating, cationic polymer which comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M10)

wherein
R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R ', R "and R" independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group,
X is an oxygen atom or a group NH,
A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group,
n is 1 or 3.

Furthermore, at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (M6) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M2) and, if appropriate, at least one structural unit of the formula (M1) is particularly suitable as a consolidating, cationic polymer suitable

wherein
R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl,
R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,
R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

worin
R¹ und R⁴ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe,
X¹ und X² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH,
A¹ und A² stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine Gruppe Ethan-1,2-diyl, Propan-1,3-diyl oder Butan-1,4-diyl,
R², R³, R⁵ und R⁶ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe,
R⁷ steht für eine (C₈ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe enthält. It is preferred according to the invention if an agent according to the invention as the above suitable fixing, cationic polymer comprises at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (M6), at least one structural unit of the formula (M7), at least one structural unit of the formula (M3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M4),

wherein
R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
X ¹ and X ² independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH,
A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl,
R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,
R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

• – Copolymere aus mit Diethylsulfat quaterniertem Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, mit Vinylpyrrolidon mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-11 unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^® 440, Gafquat^® 734, Gafquat^® 755 (jeweils Firma ISP) sowie Luviquat PQ 11 PN (Firma BASF SE),
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon, N-(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamid und 3-(Methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammoniumchlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-55), welches beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Styleze W 10 oder W 20 (W 10: 10 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz bzw. W 20: 20 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz, jeweils in Ethanol-Wasser-Gemisch) von der Firma ISP vertrieben wird.
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon, N-Vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamid und 3-(Methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammoniumchlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-69), welches beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen AquaStyle^® 300 (28–32 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz in Ethanol-Wasser-Gemisch) von der Firma ISP vertrieben wird.

Such compounds are for example as

• - copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-11 755 (both from ISP), and Luviquat under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® PQ 11 PN (BASF SE),
• - Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55), which, for example, under the trade name Styleze W 10 or W 20 (W 10 : 10 wt .-% of active substance or W 20: 20 wt .-% active ingredient, each in ethanol-water mixture) is sold by the company ISP.
• - copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide, and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI designation: Polyquaternium-69), which, for example, under the trade name Aqua Style ^® 300 (28 -32% by weight of active substance in ethanol-water mixture) is sold by the company ISP.

Furthermore, according to the invention, the cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Further suitable cationic and / or setting polymers are preferably cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch.

worin R’’ für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht,
und zusätzlich mindestens ein weiteres kationisches und/oder nichtionisches Strukturelement aufweisen. As cationic polymers which can be used particularly preferably for the purposes of the invention, there are also those cationic fixing copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula (M11)

in which R '' is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group,
and additionally have at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

worin R’’ für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht. It is again preferred according to the invention if, as additional cationic setting polymer, at least one copolymer (c1) is present, which in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M11) additionally comprises a structural element of the formula (M6)

wherein R "is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M11) and 70 to 90 mol%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6).

It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M11) and (M6) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M11) with R '' = methyl and (M6).

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly1) a chloride ion used, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552 available.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly1) using a methosulfate, these N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care available.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (c1) or at its site, the pulverulent compositions according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (c1), have structural units of the formula (M7) as additional structural units

Further particularly preferred pulverulent compositions according to the invention are thus characterized in that they comprise as cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c2) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M11-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and at least one structural unit according to Formula (M7) contains

Here, too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M11-a), (M6) and (M7) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1% by weight of polymer units due to incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M11-a), (M6) and (M7).

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly2), a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ^® Hold by BASF ,

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M11-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M7).

In addition to the copolymer (s) (c1) and / or (c2) or at its point, the pulverulent compositions according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c3) as the consolidating cationic polymer which contain as structural units structural units of the formulas (M11 -a) and (M6), as well as further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c1) containing at least one structural unit of formula (M11-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and contains at least one structural unit of formula (M10) and at least one structural unit of formula (M12)

Here too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units, from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) in the copolymer resulting in a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M11-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12).

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers are used as Polyquaternium-68, according to INCI nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Further cationic, fixing polymers preferably used in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.

Chemically, chitosans are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weights.

For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as cheap raw materials in large quantities. The chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum. Preferably used are those having a weight average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1 wt% in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88%, and have an ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%.

In addition to the chitosans as typical biopolymers, cationically derivatized chitosans (such as, for example, quaternization products) or alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable as derivatives of chitosan for the purposes of the invention.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as consolidating, cationic polymer at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, in particular formic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids , contain. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention to select the organic carboxylic acid from lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids. This neutralization product can be prepared, for example, in an aqueous medium by adding chitosan and the corresponding organic carboxylic acid.

Suitable chitosans are, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^® CMF (1 wt .-% of active substance in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% of glycolic acid, molecular weight 500,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ^® HCMF (chitosan (80% deacetylated), molecular weight of 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ^® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available commercially.

The chitosans or their derivatives are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.1 wt .-% to 1.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.

Suitable temporary cationic polymers for the purposes of the invention likewise include those which are not permanently cationic and have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8)

worin
n 1 oder 3 bedeutet. In this case, preference is again given to those copolymers which contain at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M10),

wherein
n is 1 or 3.

• – Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: Vinyl Caprolactam/PVP/Di-methylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Gaffix^® VC 713 (ISP)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylcaprolactam/Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/Vinyl Caprolactam/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Aquaflex^® SF-40 (ISP)),
• – Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymer (beispielsweise als. 35–39% Festkörper in Ethanol in form des Handelsprodukts Advantage LC E mit der INCI-Bezeichnung: Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Alcohol, Lauryl Pyrrolidone (ISP)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),

als bevorzugte Liste zur Auswahl mindestens eines oder mehrerer Polymere daraus. Again, the group of polymers applies

• - vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix ^® under the trade name VC 713 ISP)),
• - vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer (for example, INCI name: VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Aquaflex ^® SF-40 (ISP)),
• Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solid in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)),
• Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),

as a preferred list for selecting at least one or more polymers thereof.

It is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention contain compounds having structural units * - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n - * with n> 1 and / or * - (CH ₂ CHMeO) _m - * with m> 1 in an amount of 0 to 0.01 wt .-%, in particular from 0 to 0.0001 wt .-%. The agents according to the invention are particularly preferably free of compounds with the abovementioned structural units.

For the purposes of the invention, it has proved favorable to additionally add at least one (C ₄ to C ₆ ) alkanediol to the composition according to the invention.

Preferred agents are furthermore characterized in that the (C ₄ to C ₆ ) -alkanediols are selected from at least one alkanediol of the group which is formed from 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 2, 3-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,7-heptanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol. Particularly suitable according to the invention is 1,2-pentanediol.

The cosmetic compositions contain the (C ₄ to C ₆ ) -alkanediols, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of from 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1, 5% by weight.

worin R für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten (C₇ bis C₁₉)-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, Mⁿ⁺ für ein n-wertiges Kation und n für die Zahl 1, 2 oder 3 (insbesondere für 1) steht. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) monocarboxylic acid compound of the formula (III)

wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated (C ₇ to C ₁₉ ) hydrocarbon radical, M ^{n + is} an n-valent cation and n is the number 1, 2 or 3 (especially 1).

The group M ^{n +} of formula (III) is generally an n-valent cation. This is used for reasons of electroneutrality to compensate for the single negative charge of the carboxyl group of formula (III). In principle, all monovalent, bivalent or trivalent cations (n = 1, 2 or 3) are suitable as n-valent cations M ^{n +} . In particular, M ^{n +} according to formula (III) is preferably selected from metal cations of the physiologically tolerable metals of groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, VIa or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, ammonium ions, as well as cationic organic compounds with quaternized nitrogen atom. The latter are formed for example by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid, such as with compounds of formula (III) in their acid form (M ^{n +} = H ⁺ ), or by permanent quaternization of said organic amines. Examples of these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol. M ^{n +} according to formula (III) is preferably an ammonium ion (n = 1), an alkali metal ion (n = 1) (in particular for Na ⁺ or K ⁺ ) or an alkaline earth metal ion.

R according to formula (III) is preferably an unsaturated (C ₇ to C ₁₉ ) hydrocarbon radical.

Very particular preference is given to at least one (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) monocarboxylic acid compound of the formula (III) selected from oleic acid, sodium oleate or potassium oleate.

The (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) monocarboxylic acid compounds of the formula (III) according to the invention are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.005 to 0.3% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 0.2% by weight. , in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.

M und M’ unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom oder ein Äquivalent eines ein- oder mehrwertigen Kations bedeutet.
n für 1 oder 2 (insbesondere für 1) steht. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one compound of the formula (IV)

M and M 'independently represent a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation.
n is 1 or 2 (in particular 1).

For M and M 'mutatis mutandis applies to the formula (I) said.

A particularly preferred compound of the formula (IV) is a salt of sulfoacetic acid, in particular disodium sulfoacetate.

The compounds of the formula (IV) according to the invention are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.005% by weight to 0.3% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 0.2% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the agent according to the invention.

The compositions of the invention contain water as part of a cosmetically acceptable carrier. It is preferred according to the invention if it is a water-containing cosmetic carrier or an aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier. The agent according to the invention particularly preferably contains at least 50% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol or 1,3-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

Furthermore, the inventive agent for increasing the hair care effect may additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant. As cationic surfactants are understood in the context of the invention, no polymers. Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used in the agents according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds having one or two (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) -alkyl radicals. Preference is given to ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Furthermore, the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, so-called "esterquats", such as those marketed under the trademarks Dehyquart ^® and Stepantex ^® methyl hydroxyalkyl dialkoyloxyalkyl ammonium methosulfate, be used as said quaternary ammonium compounds.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe,
• – Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, worunter Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische zu verstehen sind. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  
  in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R² und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt,
• – Parfum,
• – Silikone.

The agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one oil body. Oil bodies are at pH 7 and 25 ° C in 100 g of water to not more than 0.1 g of soluble compounds. The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies are preferred to include:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• - liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons,
• Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, Di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-n-decyl ether. butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B ), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  
  in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used,
• - Perfume,
• - silicones.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, worunter Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische zu verstehen sind. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  
  in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R² und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B ), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  
  in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen; c) Thiolgruppen; d) Carboxylatgruppen; e) hydroxylierten Gruppen; f) alkoxylierten Gruppen; g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen; h) amphoteren Gruppen; i) Bisulfitgruppen; j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; k) Carboxygruppen; l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)- Polyoxyalkylen(B)- Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit nicht silikonhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silikon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht silikonhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silikon enthält, wie beispielsweise das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone vertriebene Handelsprodukt Abil B 8832 der Firma Degussa;
• (vi) oder deren Gemischen.

More preferably, the silicones are selected from at least one member of the list formed from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1) (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-1), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain a silicone of the above formula (Si-1). These silicones are referred to as dimethicones according to the INCI nomenclature. In the context of the present invention, as the silicone of the formula (Si-1) it is preferable to use the compounds: (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si ] ₁₁ -O-Si (CH _{3) 3,} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [O- (CH _{3) 2} Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH _{3) 3,} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₈ -O -Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , e where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of o.g. Silicones may be included in the preferred compositions of the invention.

Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of from 0.2 to 2 mm ² s ^-1 at 20 ° C., silicones having viscosities of from 0.5 to 1 mm ² s ^{-1 being} particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (Si-2) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} ) _x (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} ) _y M (Si-2) Be described, taking in the above formula
R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms,
Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, in which
R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;
a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,
b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
a + b is less than or equal to 3, and
c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and
M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R in formula (Si-2) include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units in formula (Si-2) is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula (Si-2) are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3) R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' _{2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a -R _'a (Si-3), where:
G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ( CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C ( CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
b stands for a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
R 'is a monovalent radical selected from -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ -QN (R ") ₂ -QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A ^- -QN ⁺ H (R ") ₂ A ^- -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A ^- -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ A ^- , wherein each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -,
R "represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Cationic silicone oils, such as the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufactured by Dow Corning, INCI: aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone), DC 5, are suitable according to the invention -7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary. Polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

enthalten, worin
R für -OH, eine (gegebenenfalls ethoxylierte und/oder propoxylierte) (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht,
R’ für -OH, eine (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe und
m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt. Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

contain, in which
R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,
R 'is -OH, a (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and
m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g is. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5) R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-5), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. According to preferred means of the embodiment with a silicone are characterized in that the silicone c2) is water-soluble.

The oil particles are preferably present in an amount of from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

It is inventively preferred if the buzzer of the amounts by weight of the compounds of formula (I) and formula (II) to the amount by weight of oil bodies in the inventive composition in a ratio (formula (I) + formula (II) to oil body) of 100 from 1 to 1 to 1, more preferably from 50 to 1 to 2 to 1.

The agents according to the invention are preferably present as foam. For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are filled into a pressurized gas container with a dispenser ("aerosol container"). The pressurized gas containers, with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as "aerosol containers". As a "nonaerosol container", a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping or squeezing system. The agent of this embodiment according to the invention preferably contains at least one propellant.

In general, for the production of an aerosol foam product, all constituents of the agent according to the invention, with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

In the embodiment as aerosol foam suitable blowing agents according to the invention are for example selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and their mixtures. According to the embodiment of an aerosol foam, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.

Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. Very particular preference is given to using mixtures of propane and butane as the sole blowing agent in a weight ratio of propane to butane of from 70 to 30 to 15 to 85. These mixtures are again preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 2.0 to 15.0% by weight. % - based on the weight of the total agent - used. Butane according to the invention is understood to mean n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of n-butane and isobutane.

When conventional aerosol containers are used, the agents according to the invention preferably contain the propellant in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.

A second subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention for the temporary reshaping and / or shape fixing of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.

A third object of the invention is a method for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers.

It has proved to be preferred if the keratinic fibers are not rinsed and left on the fiber after the action of the cosmetic compositions of the first subject of the invention.

For the second and third subject of the invention, the preferred embodiments of the first subject invention apply mutatis mutandis.

Examples

All amounts are given in weight percent unless otherwise indicated. The following formulations according to the invention were prepared as an aqueous cosmetic: raw material E1 E2 Luviskol ^® 60/40 W NP ¹ 5.00 - Gafquat ^® 755 N PW ² - 5.00 Symsol ^® PF-3 ³ 3.00 3.00 perfume oil 0.1 0.1 water ← ad 100 → ¹ copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate
² Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (about 19% solids in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (ISP)
³ INCI names: Water (Aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Oleyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Chloride, Disodium Sulfoacetate, Sodium Oleate, Sodium Sulfate (Symrise)

The formulations E1 and E2 were each filled into an aerosol container, which fulfills the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 522983 PV10697 from Pecision (Deutsche Präzisions-Ventil GmbH).

The aerosol container was filled with a propellant gas mixture of propane / butane (47% by weight of propane, 50% by weight of butane, 3% by weight of isobutane), resulting in a weight ratio of formulation to propellant gas of 92 to 8.

The agents E1 and E2 were storage stable. When actuated, the aerosol container provided a stable foam which broke on the hair when applied. It was obtained a durable styling with good hair care.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

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Cited patent literature

• DE 19756454 A [0100, 0101]

Claims (11)

Cosmetic agent for the cosmetic treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising i) at least one compound of the formula (I)

wherein R ^{1 is} a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) hydroxyalkyl group, R ^{3 is} a hydrogen atom or a group

with n = 1 or 2, M is independently of one another a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation, and ii) at least one compound of the formula (II)

M independently represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation. n is 1 or 2 and R ¹ is a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) alkyl group, a mono- or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) alkenyl group or a group R ² - (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _m - *, in which m is an integer from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 10, and R ^{2 is} a (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) -alkyl group or a mono- or polyunsaturated (C ₈ to C ₂₂ ) Alkenyl group, and iii) at least one setting polymer, and iv) water. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the radical R ³ according to formula (I) represents a hydrogen atom. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the radical R ^{1 of} the formula (I) for a (C ₉ to C ₂₃ ) alkyl group or a (C ₉ to C ₂₃ ) alkenyl group having up to four unsaturated Double bonds stands. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that R ^{2 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the compounds of formula (I) are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from N-lauroyl sarcosine, N-myristoyl sarcosine, N-palmitoyl sarcosine, N-oleyl sarcosine, N-cocoyl sarcosine, N-palm kernel sarcosine, the salts (especially the sodium salts) of the aforementioned compounds. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that n according to formula (II) is 1. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the compounds of formula (II) are chosen from one or more representatives of the group formed Salts of the sulfoacetic acid dodecyl ester, salts of the sulfoacetic acid decyl ester, salts of the sulfoacetic acid tetradecyl ester, salts of the sulfoacetic acid hexadecyl ester, salts of the sulfoacetic acid octadecyl ester. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the setting polymer is selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of nonionic fixing polymers and cationic fixing polymers. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that additionally at least one (C ₄ to C ₆ ) alkanediol is contained. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) monocarboxylic acid compound of the formula (III),

wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated (C ₇ to C ₁₉ ) hydrocarbon radical, M ^{n + is} an n-valent cation and n is the number 1, 2 or 3 (especially 1). Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one oil body.