DE102008035597A1 - Styling agent with a high degree of hold and care I - Google Patents

Abstract

Means for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers with a very high degree of retention without having to forego flexibility and a well-groomed hair feel and pleasant product feel contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one copolymer A, which contains at least one structural unit according to formula (I) , $ F1 in which R1 stands for -H or -CH3 and R2 stands for -H or -CH3 or -CH2CH3 or -CH2CH2CH3 or -CH (CH3) 2, and at least one further structural unit other than structural unit (I) according to formula (II ), $ F2 in which R1 and R2 independently of one another are -CH3 or -CH2CH3 or -CH2CH2CH3 or -CH (CH3) 2 and R3 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon radical, and at least one acrylate polymer B selected from b1) polyacrylic acid and / or b2) copolymers of methacrylic acid with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and / or b3) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and acrylic acid esters and / or b4) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid with acrylic esters and methacrylic acid esters and / or b5) copolymers of acrylic esters with methacrylic acid.

Description

The The present invention relates to temporary deformation means keratinic fibers containing a combination of polymers with other special ingredients, the use of these funds for temporary deformation of keratinous fibers and a corresponding procedure.

Under keratinic fibers are in principle all animal hair, z. As wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and made therefrom Products or textiles understood. Preferably, it is However, the keratinic fibers around human hair.

A appealing-looking hairstyle is now generally considered indispensable Part of a well-kept exterior. there are due to current fashion trends again and again Hairstyles as chic, which are used on many hair types only consolidate active ingredients or for a longer period up to several days to maintain. Therefore play Hair treatment products that are permanent or temporary Shaping the hair serve an important role. Temporary Shapes that should give a good grip, without the healthy Appearance of the hair, such as its gloss, to affect For example, hairsprays, hair waxes, hair gels, Hair foams, hair drier, etc. can be achieved.

Appropriate Means for temporary shaping contain as shaping Component usually synthetic polymers. preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer, can by means of propellant gases or by a pump mechanism be applied to the hair. In particular hair gels and hair waxes are usually not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The most important property of a temporary deformation agent Keratinischer fibers, hereinafter also called styling agent exists in it, the treated fibers in the produced form as strong as possible Stop. Is the keratinic fibers human? Hair, one also speaks of strong hairstyle or high Holding level of the styling agent. The hairstyle is essentially through determines the type and amount of synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other components of the styling agent can be given.

Next A high degree of hold requires styling agents a whole bunch meet further requirements. these can coarse in properties on the hair, properties of the respective formulation, z. B. properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed Aerosols, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent be divided into, the properties on the hair special Importance. In particular, moisture resistance, low stickiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Farther should a styling agent as possible for all hair types be universally applicable.

Often is a high degree of retention undesirably high Brittleness of the hairstyle. The one with the corresponding Styling agent treated hair are rigid, brittle and act unnaturally firm. This makes them feel rough and neglected. In addition, the polymer film that the agents at the application on the hair leave in the cases mentioned so inflexible that it breaks under stress. hereby it comes to the formation of so-called Filmplaken, that is Residues that are involved in the movement of the hair replace and give the impression of the user of the corresponding Styling agent would have dandruff.

One Another problem is that the product consistency of such products is judged negatively by the consumer Products considered tough, sticky and poorly replicable become.

task The present invention was therefore a means for temporary To provide deformation of keratinous fibers, which is characterized by a very high degree of hold without being on flexibility and a neat hair feeling as well as pleasant product haptics would have to be waived.

It It has now surprisingly been found that Styling products with a high degree of hold and a pleasant care feeling in the hair, using a combination of special polymers is incorporated in the funds.

• – mindestens eine Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (I) enthält
  
  in der R1 für -H oder -CH₃ und R2 für -H oder -CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₂CH₃ oder -CH(CH₃)₂ steht,
• – und mindestens eine weitere von Struktureinheit (I) verschiedene Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (II) enthält
  
  in der R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander für -CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₂CH₃ oder -CH(CH₃)₂ steh en und R3 für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, gerdkettigen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest steht, a) mindestens ein Acrylat-Polymer B, ausgewählt aus b1) Polyacrylsäure und/oder b2) Copolymeren von Methacrylsäure mit Acrylamidopropansulfonsäure und/oder b3) Copolymeren von Acrylsäure mit Methacrylsäure und Acrylsäureestern und/oder b4) Copolymeren von Acrylsäure mit Methacrylsäure mit Acrylsäureestern und Methacrylsäureestern und/oder b5) Copolymeren von Acrylsäureestern mit Methacrylsäure

A first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one copolymer A, which

• - contains at least one structural unit of formula (I)
  
  in which R _{1 is} -H or -CH ₃ and R _{2 is} -H or -CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ ,
• - And at least one further structure of unit (I) different structural unit according to formula (II)
  
  in which R ₁ and R _2, independently of one another, are -CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ and R _{3 is} a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon radical, a ) at least one acrylate polymer B selected from b1) polyacrylic acid and / or b2) copolymers of methacrylic acid with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and / or b3) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and acrylic esters and / or b4) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid with acrylic esters and methacrylates and / or b5) copolymers of acrylic acid esters with methacrylic acid

The agents according to the invention contain as the first mandatory Component of a polymer, which consists of at least two different Monomers of the formulas (I) and (II) is constructed. About that In addition, other monomers may be copolymerized.

beschreiben, in der R1 für -H oder -CH₃ und R2 für -H oder -CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₂CH₃ oder -CH(CH₃)₂ steht. Wenn R1 für -H steht, handelt es sich bei den Monomeren der Formel (I) um Acrylsäure oder Acrylsäureester, bei R1 = -CH₃ handelt es sich bei den Monomeren der Formel (I) um Methacrylsäure oder Methacrylsäureester.The first monomer contained in the copolymer A can be represented by the formula (I)

in which R _{1 is} -H or -CH ₃ and R _{2 is} -H or -CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ . When R1 is -H, it is in the monomers of formula (I) is acrylic acid or acrylate, wherein R1 = _-CH3, it is the monomers of formula (I) is methacrylic acid or methacrylic ester.

All particularly preferred monomers of the formula (I) are acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, Ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, Acrylic acid propyl ester, propyl methacrylate, Isopropyl acrylate and isopropyl methacrylate.

enthält, in der R für -H oder -CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₂CH₃ oder -CH(CH₃)₂ steht.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention comprise acrylic acid or acrylic ester as monomer unit in the copolymer A. Such agents are characterized in that the copolymer A contains structural units of the formula (Ia)

wherein R is -H or -CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ .

beschreiben, in der R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander für -CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₃ oder -CH₂CH₂CH₃ oder -CH(CH₃)₂ stehen und R3 für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, gradkettigen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest steht.The other monomer contained in the copolymer A can be represented by the formula (I)

in which R ₁ and R _2, independently of one another, are -CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ and R _{3 is} a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon radical.

in denen R3 jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest steht.Among the representatives of the formula (II), preference is given to those monomers in which R1 = R2. Particularly preferred monomers can be described by the formulas (IIa), (IIb) and (IIc):

in which R 3 is in each case a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon radical.

Quite particularly preferred monomers are those with R1 = R2 = -CH _3. It is further preferred to choose as the radical R3 a straight-chain alkyl radical, preference being given to ethyl, n-butyl, n-hexyl, n-octyl and n-decyl radicals.

enthält.Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the copolymer A contains structural units of the formula (II)

contains.

Yet more preferred are agents according to the invention, the copolymer (e) A with molecular weights of 10 to 750 kDa, preferably from 25 to 500 kDa, more preferably from 30 to 400 kDa, and especially from 4 to 250 kDa.

Independently the type and molecular weight of the copolymers A used according to the invention Means preferred, which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use By means of, 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of copolymer (s) A included.

• – 10 bis 95 Mol.-%, vorzugsweise 15 bis 85 Mol.-% und insbesondere 20 bis 80 Mol.-% Monomere der Formel (I) und
• – 5 bis 90 Mol.-%, vorzugsweise 7,5 bis 80 Mol.-% und insbesondere 10 bis 60 Mol.-% Monomere der Formel (II)

enthalten.Preferably, the monomers of the formulas (I) and (II) are contained within certain limits in the copolymer A. Here are preferred agents according to the invention characterized in that they contain copolymer (e) A, the

• - 10 to 95 mol .-%, preferably 15 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 20 to 80 mol .-% monomers of For mel (I) and
• From 5 to 90 mol%, preferably from 7.5 to 80 mol% and in particular from 10 to 60 mol% of monomers of the formula (II)

contain.

• b1) Polyacrylsäure und/oder
• b2) Copolymeren von Methacrylsäure mit Acrylamidopropansulfonsäure und/oder
• b3) Copolymeren von Acrylsäure mit Methacrylsäure und Acrylsäureestern und/oder
• b4) Copolymeren von Acrylsäure mit Methacrylsäure mit Acrylsäureestern und Methacrylsäureestern und/oder
• b5) Copolymeren von Acrylsäureestern mit Methacrylsäure.

The compositions of the invention contain at least one further polymer B from the group of acrylate polymers, ie the polymers containing at least one monomer unit from the group of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or esters thereof. This acrylate polymer is selected from

• b1) polyacrylic acid and / or
• b2) copolymers of methacrylic acid with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and / or
• b3) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and acrylic esters and / or
• b4) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid with acrylic esters and methacrylates and / or
• b5) copolymers of acrylic acid esters with methacrylic acid.

auf, in der m je nach Molmasse variiert.For example, agents according to the invention which contain polyacrylic acid as polymer B are preferred. This has structural units of the formula

in which m varies depending on the molar mass.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that they are polyacrylic acids as polymer b1 with a molecular weight of 10 to 250 kDa, preferably from 25 to 200 kDa, more preferably from 50 to 150 kDa and especially from 70 up to 100 kDa.

Preferably the polymers b1 are used within certain quantitative ranges. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% polymer (s) contain b1.

additionally to the polymer (s) b1 or at its or their location the agents according to the invention can also Polymers b2 from the group of copolymers of methacrylic acid Contain with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid.

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m und n je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.These can be explained by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m and n vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that, as copolymer b2, they are copolymers of Methacrylic acid with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid with a molecular weight of 100 to 2500 kDa, preferably from 250 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1750 kDa and in particular from 800 to 1500 kDa, included.

Preferably, the copolymers b2 are used within certain ranges. Here are agents according to the invention which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% copolymer (e) b2 contain.

Copolymers of methacrylic acid and acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, for example, under the trade name Fixomer ^® A-30 (Nalco) available.

additionally to the polymer (s) b1 and / or the copolymer (s) b2 or at its or their place, the inventive Means also polymers b3 from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid Contain with methacrylic acid and acrylic acid esters.

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m und n je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen. R1 steht für -H oder -CH₃.These can be explained by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m and n vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner. R1 is -H or -CH _3.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that they are copolymers of Acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and acrylic esters with a molecular weight of 50 to 500 kDa, preferably from 100 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 300 kDa and in particular from 200 to 250 kDa, included.

Preferably the copolymers b3 are used within certain quantitative ranges. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (e) b3.

A very particularly preferred copolymer b3 is referred to as INCI nomenclature as acrylate copolymer. Such a polymer is available for example under the trade name Aculyn ^® 33A (Rohm & Haas).

additionally to the polymer (s) b1 and / or the copolymer (s) b2 and / or the copolymer (s) b3 or at its or their place the agents according to the invention also polymers b4 from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and ethoxylated acrylic acid esters and ethoxylated methacrylic acid esters contain.

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n, o und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen. R1 steht für eine Methylgruppe, der Rest R für einen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einem bis 22 C-Atomen, x steht für 1 bis 50.These can be explained by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner. R 1 is a methyl group, the radical R is a hydrocarbon radical having one to 22 C atoms, x is from 1 to 50.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they copolymer copolymers b4 of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and ethoxylated acrylic acid esters and ethoxylated methacrylic acid esters having a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, further before at from 200 to 300 kDa and in particular from 225 to 275 kDa included.

Preferably the copolymers b4 are used within certain quantitative ranges. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (s) b4.

Especially preferred copolymers b4 have 20 to 30 EO units (x = 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30) and have the remainder R is a stearyl radical or behenyl radical.

An especially preferred copolymer b4 has 25 EO units, is esterified with behenyl alcohol and is designated according to the INCI nomenclature as acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer. Such a polymer is, for example, under the trade name Aculyn ^® 28 (Rohm & Haas).

additionally to the polymer (s) b1 and / or the copolymer (s) b2 and / or the copolymer (s) b3 and / or the copolymer (s) b4 or at the or their place, the means of the invention also polymers b5 from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid esters Contain with methacrylic acid.

preferred Acrylic acid esters are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate, wherein the latter is particularly preferred.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that they are copolymers b5 as copolymers of Acrylic acid esters with methacrylic acid with a Molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably of 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 200 to 300 kDa and especially from 225 to 275 kDa, included.

Preferably the copolymers b5 are used within certain ranges. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (s) b5.

A particularly preferred copolymer b5 is derived from the polymerization of methacrylic acid with ethyl acrylate and is referred to as an acrylate copolymer according to the INCI nomenclature. Such a polymer is available, for example under the trade name Luviflex® ^® Soft (BASF).

The agents according to the invention contain as further Ingredient preferably a film-forming polymer. Especially preferred agents of the invention contain based on their weight 0.1 to 25 wt .-% of at least one film former. Especially preferred film formers used in the inventive Agents can be used are described below.

• – mindestens eine Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-I) enthält
  
  worin
• – R eine C₁- bis C₃₀-Alkylgruppe, eine C₁- bis C₄-Aralkylgruppe, eine C₂- bis C₆-Alkenylgruppe oder eine C₂ bis C₆-Hydroxyalkylgruppe bedeutet und
• – X^– für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht
• – und mindestens eine weitere Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-II) enthält
  
  worin n für 1, 2 oder 3 als Anzahl der Methyleneinheiten steht.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one further copolymer C which

• - contains at least one structural unit according to formula (CI)
  
  wherein
• R is a C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl group, a C ₁ to C ₄ aralkyl group, a C ₂ to C ₆ alkenyl group or a C ₂ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group, and
• - X ^{- stands} for a physiologically acceptable anion
• - And at least one further structural unit according to formula (C-II) contains
  
  wherein n is 1, 2 or 3 as the number of methylene units.

Film-forming and / or consolidating copolymers C are known. These copolymers have at least one structural unit according to formula (C-I) and at least one structural unit according to formula (C-II) and may also contain other structural units have by adding appropriate monomers polymerized in the polymerization.

In formula (CI), R is a C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl group, a C ₁ to C ₄ aralkyl group, a C ₂ to C ₆ alkenyl group or a C ₂ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group. Preferred groups R are, for example, -CH ₃ ; -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH (OH) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₃ .

X ^- represents a physiologically acceptable anion, preferred anions are chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, methosulfate, ethyl sulfate, tosylate and tetrafluoroborate.

In Formula (C-II) represents n the number of methylene groups. With n = 1, formula (C-II) represents a vinylpyrrolidone unit, with n = 2 for a vinylpiperidinone unit and with n = 3 for a vinylcaprolactam unit.

• – mindestens eine Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-I) enthält
  
  worin R für eine Methylgruppe und X für Methosulfat steht,
• – mindestens weitere Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-II) enthält
  
  worin n für 1 Methyleneinheiten steht.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as copolymer C, a copolymer C1 which

• - contains at least one structural unit according to formula (CI)
  
  wherein R is a methyl group and X is methosulfate,
• - contains at least another structural unit according to formula (C-II)
  
  where n is 1 methylene units.

All particularly preferred copolymers C1 contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol .-% and in particular 20 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-I) and 70 to 90 mol%, preferably 75 to 85 mol%, and especially 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-II).

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m und n je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formel (C-I) und der Formel (C-II) im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.In this case, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers C1 in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (CI) and (C-II) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 Wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers C1 are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (CI) and (C-II) and can be represented by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m and n vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (CI) and the formula (C-II) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care from BASF.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention contain a Copolymer C1, the molecular weights within a certain range having. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer A1 has a molecular weight of 50 to 400 kDa, preferably from 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 250 kDa, and especially from 190 to 210 kDa.

additionally to the copolymer (s) C1 or at its or their place the agents according to the invention can also Copolymers contain C2, as additional structural units Have structural units of the formula (C-II), in which n is the number 3 is.

• – mindestens eine Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-I) enthält
  
  worin R für eine Methylgruppe und X für Methosulfat steht,
• – mindestens weitere Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-II) enthält
  
  worin n für 1 Methyleneinheiten steht
• – mindestens weitere Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-II) enthält
  
  worin n für 3 Methyleneinheiten steht.

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as copolymer C, a copolymer C2 which

• - contains at least one structural unit according to formula (CI)
  
  wherein R is a methyl group and X is methosulfate,
• - contains at least another structural unit according to formula (C-II)
  
  where n is 1 methylene units
• - contains at least another structural unit according to formula (C-II)
  
  where n is 3 methylene units.

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formel (C-I) und der Formel (C-II) im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.In this case too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers C2 contain not more than 5% by weight, preferably not more than 1% by weight, in addition to polymer units which result from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (CI) and (C-II) into the copolymer. , Contain polymer units due to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers C2 are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (CI) and (C-II) and can be represented by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (CI) and the formula (C-II) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-46, according to INCI nomenclature and are obtainable for example under the trade name Luviquat Hold ^® from BASF.

All particularly preferred copolymers C2 contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-I) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol%, and especially 40 mol% of structural units of the formula (C-II) with n = 1 and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-II) with n = 3.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention contain a Copolymer C2, the molecular weights within a certain range having. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer C2 has a molecular weight of 100 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 250 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 850 kDa and in particular from 650 to 710 kDa.

additionally to the copolymer (s) C1 and / or C2 or to the their place can the invention Agents also contain copolymers C3, as additional Structural units have structural units of the formula (C-II), in which n stands for the number 3 as well as further units of distraction from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.

• – mindestens eine Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-I) enthält
  
  worin R für eine Methylgruppe und X für Methosulfat steht,
• – mindestens weitere Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-II) enthält
  
  worin n für 1 Methyleneinheiten steht
• – mindestens weitere Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-III) enthält
  
• – mindestens weitere Struktureinheit gemäß Formel (C-IV) enthält
  

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as copolymer C, a copolymer C3 which

• - contains at least one structural unit according to formula (CI)
  
  wherein R is a methyl group and X is methosulfate,
• - contains at least another structural unit according to formula (C-II)
  
  where n is 1 methylene units
• - contains at least one further structural unit according to formula (C-III)
  
• - contains at least another structural unit according to formula (C-IV)
  

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n, o und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formeln (C-I), (C-II), (C-III) und (C-IV) im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.Here too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers C3 in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (CI), (C-II), (C-III) and (C-IV) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 Wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers C3 are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (CI), (C-II), (C-III) and (C-IV) and can be represented by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (CI), (C-II), (C-III) and (C-IV) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers become loud INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade name Luviquat ^® Supreme.

All particularly preferred copolymers C3 contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol .-% and in particular 6 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-I) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol%, and especially 55 mol% of structural units of the formula (C-II) with n = 1 and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-III) and 20 to 40 mol%, preferably 25 to 35 mol% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-IV).

Especially preferred agents according to the invention contain a Copolymer C3, the molecular weights within a certain range having. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer A3 has a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 250 to 350 kDa and in particular from 290 to 310 kDa.

Independently of whether only one copolymer C or more copolymers C used and regardless of the choice of specific copolymer C are agents of the invention are preferred in which the total amount of copolymers C, based on the weight of the ready-to-use By means, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-%, is.

All particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that it is a copolymer D from Contain methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate.

Preferably Copolymers D are used which are 10 to 80 mol%, preferably 20 to 70 mol .-%, particularly preferably 30 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 40 to 50 mol% of methacrylic acid and 20 to 90 mol%, preferably From 30 to 80 mol%, more preferably from 40 to 70 mol%, and especially Contain 50 to 60 mol .-% ethyl acrylate.

Yet more preferred are agents according to the invention, in which the copolymer D has a molecular weight of 100 to 800 kDa, preferably from 200 to 700 kDa, more preferably from 300 to 600 kDa and especially from 450 to 550 kDa.

Particularly preferred composition of the invention contains the copolymer from BASF AG under the name Luviflex® ^® Soft (INCI name: acrylates copolymer) is sold.

Independently of which copolymer (s) C or D is / are used, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the total amount of copolymers C and D, respectively, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-%, is.

• – mindestens einem Monomer e1 ausgewählt aus Acrylsäure und/oder Methacrylsäure, und
• – mindestens einem Monomer e2 ausgewählt aus Acrylamid und/oder Methacrylamid und
• – mindestens einem Monomer e3 ausgewählt aus N-substituierten Acrylamiden und/oder Methacrylamiden.

In addition to the film-forming copolymers C and / or D or in their place, the compositions according to the invention may contain further film-forming polymers E from the group of acrylate polymers, ie the polymers containing at least one monomer unit from the group of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or whose esters contain. Preferred agents according to the invention comprise at least one copolymer E, formed from

• At least one monomer e1 selected from acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and
• - At least one monomer e2 selected from acrylamide and / or methacrylamide and
• - At least one monomer e3 selected from N-substituted acrylamides and / or methacrylamides.

This Copolymer E contains at least one monomer e1 selected from acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and at least a monomer e2 selected from acrylamide and / or methacrylamide and at least one monomer e3 selected from N-substituted Acrylamides and / or methacrylamides and may be moreover have further structural units by adding of corresponding monomers polymerized in the polymerization become.

• – Acrylsäure und Acrylamid und N-substituierten Acrylamiden
• – Acrylsäure und Methacrylamid und N-substituierten Acrylamiden
• – Methacrylsäure und Acrylamid und N-substituierten Acrylamiden
• – Methacrylsäure und Methacrylamid und N-substituierten Acrylamiden und/oder Methacrylamiden
• – Acrylsäure und Acrylamid und N-substituierten Methacrylamiden
• – Acrylsäure und Methacrylamid und N-substituierten Methacrylamiden
• – Methacrylsäure und Acrylamid und N-substituierten Methacrylamiden
• – Methacrylsäure und Methacrylamid und N-substituierten Methacrylamiden

Particularly preferred copolymers A are copolymers of

• Acrylic acid and acrylamide and N-substituted acrylamides
• Acrylic acid and methacrylamide and N-substituted acrylamides
• - Methacrylic acid and acrylamide and N-substituted acrylamides
• - Methacrylic acid and methacrylamide and N-substituted acrylamides and / or methacrylamides
• Acrylic acid and acrylamide and N-substituted methacrylamides
• Acrylic acid and methacrylamide and N-substituted methacrylamides
• - Methacrylic acid and acrylamide and N-substituted methacrylamides
• - Methacrylic acid and methacrylamide and N-substituted methacrylamides

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that, as copolymer E, it is a copolymer E1 containing as monomer e1 acrylic acid.

One the preferred monomer is the acrylamide. Accordingly, preferred according to the invention Means characterized in that they are used as copolymer E a copolymer E1 comprising as monomer e2 acrylamide.

The N-substitution on the N-substituted acrylamides can be achieved by simple Alkali groups (preferably methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isoporphyl) However, particularly preferred are substituted alkyl groups, carry the anionic functionalities. Most notably preferred are sulfonate-containing substituents.

One Particularly preferred according to the invention agent characterized in that it is a copolymer E copolymer Contains E1, which as monomer e3 Acryloyldimethyltaurat includes.

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n und o je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.These copolymers E1 can be defined by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m, n and o vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that the copolymer E1 has a molecular weight of 50 to 500 kDa, preferably 100 to 450 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 400 kDa and especially from 200 to 300 kDa.

Preferably the copolymers E are used within certain ranges. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in the total amount of copolymers E, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% is.

Copolymers of acrylamide with methacrylic acid and acryloyldimethyltaurate are available for example under the trade name Acudyne ^® SCP (Rohm & Haas).

• f1) Copolymeren von Vinylpyrrolidon mit Methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid (MAPTAC) und/oder
• f2) Copolymeren von Vinylpyrrolidon mit Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat und/oder
• f3) Copolymeren von Vinylpyrrolidon mit Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid und Alkyldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammoniumsalzen.

In addition to the film-forming copolymers B and / or C and / or D and / or E or in their place, the compositions according to the invention may contain further film-forming polymers F. Preferred agents according to the invention comprise at least one copolymer F selected from

• f1) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) and / or
• f2) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and / or
• f3) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and alkyldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts.

So For example, agents according to the invention are preferred. as polymer F copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) (b1).

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m und n je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.These can be explained by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m and n vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that they are copolymers as cationic polymer f1 of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) with vinylpyrrolidone containing 40 to 95 mol%, preferably 42.5 to 90 mol%, more preferably 45 to 85 mol% and especially 50 to 80 mol% Containing vinylpyrrolidone.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are further characterized in that the copolymers f1 molecular weights from 10 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 25 to 900 kDa, more preferred from 50 to 800 kDa and in particular from 100 to 750 kDa.

Preferably the copolymers f1 are used within certain quantitative ranges. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (e) f1.

A very particularly preferred copolymer f1 is designated as Polyquaternium-28 according to the INCI nomenclature. Such a polymer is available, for example under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS-100 (ISP).

additionally to the polymer (s) f1 or at its or their place the agents according to the invention can also Polymers f2 from the group of copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with Contain dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate.

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m und n je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.These can be explained by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m and n vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units in the molecule can be statistically distributed before lie.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that they are f2 copolymers as cationic polymer of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, which is 40 to 95 mol%, preferably 42.5 to 90 mol%, more preferably 45 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 50 to 80 mol .-% vinylpyrrolidone contain.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are further characterized in that the copolymers f2 molecular weights from 100 to 2500 kDa, preferably from 250 to 2000 kDa, further preferably from 500 to 1750 kDa and in particular from 800 to 1500 kDa, exhibit.

Preferably the copolymers f2 are used within certain quantitative ranges. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (s) f2.

A most preferred copolymer f2 is referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-11. Such a polymer is available for example under the trade name Gafquat ^® 755 N (ISP).

additionally to the polymer (s) f1 and / or the polymer (s) ff2 or at its or their place, the inventive Means also polymers f3 from the group of copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and alkyldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts contain.

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n und o je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.These can be explained by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m, n and o vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that they are f3 copolymers as cationic polymer of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts contain.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are further characterized in that it is a cationic polymer f3 copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and alkyldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts containing 40 to 95 mol%, preferably 42.5 to 90 mol%, more preferably 45 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 50 to 80 mol .-% vinylpyrrolidone contain.

All particularly preferred agents according to the invention are moreover characterized in that the Copolymers f3 molecular weights of 10 to 1000 kDa, preferably 25 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 50 to 800 kDa and in particular from 100 to 750 kDa.

The copolymers f3 are preferably used within certain quantitative ranges. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% of copolymer (s) f3 included.

A very particularly preferred copolymer f3 is designated as Polyquaternium-55 according to the INCI nomenclature. Such a polymer is available, for example under the trade name Styleze® ^® W20 (ISP).

Independently of type and weight ratio of all in the invention Means contained polymers to each other beyond agents according to the invention are preferred in which the Total polymer content of the agent 1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 2.5 to 12.5 wt .-%, more preferably 4 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 8 wt .-% is.

When another essential ingredient may be the invention Agent contain at least one silicone oil and / or silicone gum.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen; c) Thiolgruppen; d) Carboxylatgruppen; e) hydroxylierten Gruppen; f) alkoxylierten Gruppen; g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen; h) amphoteren Gruppen; i) Bisulfitgruppen; j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; k) Carboxygruppen; l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A – B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit nicht siliconhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silicon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht siliconhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silicon enthält;

oder deren Gemischen.Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone, preferably a silicone, selected from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (Iii) linear polysiloxane (A) -polyoxyalkylene (B) -Blockcopoylmeren type (A - B) _n with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;

or their mixtures.

Particularly according to the invention preferred agents preferably contain the silicone (s) in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total Medium.

According to the invention suitable Silicone oils or silicone gums are especially dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane and Methylphenylpolysiloxan, and their alkoxylated, quaternized or anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear Polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, Dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.

Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I):

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ₂ to C ₃₀ linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

When Examples of such products are the following commercial products called: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all the aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously mentioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all previously mentioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all previously mentioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I):

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ₂ to C ₃₀ linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. Most preferably, the viscosity is in the range between 50,000 and 200,000 cps.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of silicones that are suitable. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ² PE-O-) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S3-I), PE- (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (- (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -PE (S3-II)

oder durch die Strukturformel (S3-IV):

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):

or by the structural formula (S3-IV):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ₂ to C ₃₀ linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene res Te derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow ^Corning® 5330 Fluid.

Of course The teaching according to the invention also includes that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers already can be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and those known to those skilled conventional Process for emulsification are produced. You can do this as an aid for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and Emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries. Of course For example, the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or Dimethicone copolyols also prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process become. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.

If the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols as Emulsion, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, especially preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 up to 10 μm. The particle size is thereby determined by the method of light scattering.

Become branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols used, it is understood that the branching larger is, as a random branch caused by impurities the respective monomers randomly arises. In the sense of the The present invention is therefore branched dimethiconols, Dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols understand that the Branching degree is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and whole more preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree The branching is thereby from the relationship of the unbranched Monomers to the branching monomers, that is the Amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes, determined. According to the invention both low-branched and hyperbranched dimethiconols, Dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are very particularly preferred be.

suitable Silicones are also amino-functional silicones (S4), in particular the silicones, which are grouped under the INCI name Amodimethicone are. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group.

Such silicones may, for. By the formula (S4-I) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2)} ) _x (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2)} ) _y M (S4-I) wherein R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon group having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar group of the general formula -R ¹ Z wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "A" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 kos contains, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH _{2) 3} C (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , where z is an integer from 1 to 50. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH (CH ₂ ) _zz , in which both z and zz independently of one another represent an integer from 1 to 50, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is particularly preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z NX ¹ X ² or -NX ¹ X ² , wherein each of X ¹ and X ² is independently selected from hydrogen and a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms.

Most preferably, Q is a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and more preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

• – G ist -H, eine Phenylgruppe, -OH, -O-CH₃, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃;
• – a steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 3, insbesondere 0;
• – b steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 1, insbesondere 1,
• – m und n sind Zahlen, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt,
• – R' ist ein monovalenter Rest ausgewählt aus • -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N(R'')₂ • -N(R'')₂ • -N+(R'')₃A^– • -N⁺H(R'')₂A^– • -N⁺H₂(R'')A^– • -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺R''H₂A^–, wobei jedes R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht und A^– ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid oder Methosulfat.

Preferred amino-functional silicones correspond to the formula (S4-II) R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' _{2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a -R _'a (S4-II), where:

• G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• B is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• M and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
• R 'is a monovalent radical selected from • -N (R'') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R'') ₂ • -N (R'') ₂ • -N + (R'') ₃ A. ^- • ^- N ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^- • ^- N ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^- • ^- N (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , wherein each R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and a ^- represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred amino-functional silicones correspond to the formula (S4-III)

wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.

worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particular preference is furthermore given to amino-functional silicones of the formula (S4-IV)

wherein R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.

Preferably Such amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per Grams of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

• – oligomere Polydimethylcyclosiloxane (INCI-Bezeichnung: Cyclomethicone), insbesondere die tetramere und die pentamere Verbindung, die als Handelsprodukte DC 245 Fluid, DC 344 bzw. DC 345 von Dow Corning vertrieben werden,
• – Hexamethyl-Disiloxan (INCI-Bezeichnung: Hexamethyldisiloxane), z. B. das unter der Bezeichnung Abil^® K 520 vertriebenen Produkt,
• – Polyphenylmethylsiloxane (INCI-Bezeichnung: Phenyl Trimethicone), z. B. das Handelsprodukt DC 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid von Dow Corning,
• – Ester sowie Partialester der Silikon-Glykol-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise von der Firma Fanning unter der Handelsbezeichnung Fancorsil^® LIM (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone Copolyol Meadowfoamate) vertrieben werden,
• – anionische Silikonöle, wie beispielsweise das Produkt Dow Corning^®1784.

Other suitable silicones are, for example

• Oligomeric polydimethylcyclosiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), in particular the tetrameric and pentameric compounds sold as commercial products DC 245 Fluid, DC 344 and DC 345, respectively, by Dow Corning,
• Hexamethyldisiloxane (INCI name: hexamethyldisiloxane), eg. B. the product sold under the name Abil ^® K 520,
• - Polyphenylmethylsiloxane (INCI name: Phenyl Trimethicone), z. For example, the commercial product DC 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning,
• - esters and partial esters of the silicone-glycol copolymers, such as, for example, by the company Fanning under the trade name LIM Fancorsil ^® (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol Meadowfoamate) are distributed,
• Anionic silicone oils such as the Dow ^Corning® 1784 product.

According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises at least two different silicone derivatives, more preferably a combination of a volatile and a nonvolatile silicone. Volatile in the context of the invention are those silicones which have a volatility which is equal to or greater than the volatility of the cyclic, pentameric dimethylsiloxane. Such combinations are also available as commercial products (eg, Dow ^Corning® 1401, Dow ^Corning® 1403, and Dow ^Corning® 1501, each containing mixtures of a cyclomethicone and a dimethiconol).

preferred Mixtures of different silicones are, for example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols. A most preferred mixture of silicones consists of at least one cyclic dimethiconol and / or dimethicone, at least another non-cyclic dimethicone and / or dimethiconol and at least one amino-functional silicone.

Become different silicones used as a mixture, so is the mixing ratio largely variable. However, all are preferably used for the mixture Silicones in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a binary mixture used. A ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture as much as possible in a ratio of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt .-%.

Especially preferred silicones are described below.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (S1-I), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

These silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature. In the context of the present invention, as the silicone of the formula Si-1, the compounds are preferably: (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₁ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course can also mixtures of o. g. Silicones in the invention Be included means.

Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of from 0.2 to 2 mm ² s ^-1 at 20 ° C., silicones having viscosities of from 0.5 to 1 mm ² s ^{-1 being} particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may, for. B. by the formula M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2x} (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2) y} M wherein R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon group of 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar group of the general formula -R ¹ HZ wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and the group Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "A" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "Is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II) R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' _{2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a -R _'a (Si-II), contain, in which means:

• G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• - a stands for a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• - b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• - m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein n preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m are preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 until 10,
• R 'is a monovalent radical selected from • -QN (R'') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R'') ₂ • -QN (R'') ₂ • -QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- • -QN ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^- • -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^- • -QN (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , where each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ - , -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -, R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals , preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.

enthalten, worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Also particularly preferred are agents according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are called amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Independently of which amino-functional silicones are used are agents according to the invention which are an amino-functional Silicone contain its amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

According to the invention preferred Agents are characterized by having 0.01, based on their weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of amino-functional (s) Silicone (s) included.

enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 3 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 3 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 30 bis 7 und insbesondere 3, 4, 5 oder 6, steht.The INCI CYCLOMETHICONE designated cyclic dimethicones are inventively used with preference. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.

The silicones described above have a backbone, which is composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course These Si-O-Si units can also be replaced by carbon chains be interrupted. Corresponding molecules are by chain extension reactions accessible and preferably come in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions for use.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-IV R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-IV), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. The compositions of the invention contain the polymers in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are watery, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic media with preferably at least 10 wt .-% water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, in particular those commonly used for cosmetic purposes lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as Be contained ethanol and isopropanol.

When additional co-solvents can be organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0.1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 percent by weight based on the total agent be included. Especially suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons, such as pentane, Hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble Solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount up to 30 wt .-% based on the entire means.

The Agents preferably have a pH of from 2 to 11. Especially the pH range between 4 and 9 is preferred. The pH value refer to the pH at 25 ° C for the purposes of this document, unless otherwise noted.

The agents according to the invention can continue containing the auxiliaries and additives that are commonly used be added to the respective cosmetic products.

When suitable auxiliaries and additives are in particular care substances to call. These are found in both skin and hair treatment products Application and can with appropriate choice of the care substance for example in creams, shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, Gels, pump and aerosol sprays and foam products are incorporated.

When Nursing agent may be an agent according to the invention for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its Derivatives included.

protein are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained. The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives built-up polymers under the term Understood protein hydrolysates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, Polyasparagin, Polyserin etc. count. Further examples for compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course can according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid. The molecular weight of Protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, Preferably, the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and completely more preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention Protein hydrolyzates both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Especially interesting is the use of silk protein hydrolysates. Under Silk is the fiber of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread Fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds together this double thread. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28 % By weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1 % By weight of dyes and mineral constituents.

The essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt .-% hydroxy amino acids. The sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37 Wt%), aspartate (Asp, 26 wt%), glycine (Gly, 17 wt%), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr).

The water-insoluble fibroin is associated with scleroproteins to count long-chain molecular structure. The main ingredients of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another essential structural feature of fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.

Prefers is in the agent of the invention as a silk protein hydrolyzate an active substance complex (A) selected from the active ingredient (A1) from sericin, sericin hydrolysates and / or their derivatives, as well as Mixtures thereof, and an active ingredient (A2) selected from fibroin, and / or fibroin hydrolysates and / or their derivatives and / or mixtures thereof.

Of the Active Complex (A) significantly improves synergistically the previously described essential inner and outer Structural features and strength as well as elasticity of human hair.

• – natives Sericin,
• – hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Sericin, wie beispielsweise Handelsprodukte mit den INCI-Bezeichnungen Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, oder Hydrolyzed Silk,
• – eine Mischung aus den Aminosäuren Serin, Aspartat und Glycin und/oder deren Methyl-, Propyl-, iso-Propyl-, Butyl-, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Serin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 20 bis 60 Gew.-%, das Aspartat und/oder dessen Derivate zu 10–40 Gew.-% und das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 5 bis 30 Gew.-% enthalten sind, mit der Maßgabe, dass sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.-% ergänzen,
• – sowie deren Mischungen.

As active ingredients (A1) can be used in the active ingredient complex (A):

• - native sericin,
• Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed Silk,
• - A mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this Mix the serine and / or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt .-%, the aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10-40 wt .-% and the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt .-% are included with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives preferably add up to 100% by weight,
• - And their mixtures.

• – natives, in eine lösliche Form überführtes Fibroin,
• – hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Fibroin, besonders teilhydrolisiertes Fibroin, welches als Hauptbestandteil die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly enthält,
• – die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• – eine Mischung der Aminosäuren Glycin, Alanin und Tyrosin und/oder deren Methyl-, Propyl-, iso-Propyl-, Butyl-, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate in Mengen von 20–60 Gew.-%, das Alanin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 10–40 Gew.-% und das Tyrosin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 0 bis 25 Gew.-% enthalten sind, mit der Maßgabe, dass sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.-% ergänzen,
• – sowie deren Mischungen.

As active ingredients (A2) can be used in the active ingredient complex (A):

• Native fibroin converted into a soluble form,
• Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as its main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• The amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• - A mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, being in this mixture the glycine and / or its derivatives in amounts of 20-60 wt .-%, the alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40 wt .-% and the tyrosine and its derivatives in amounts of 0 to 25 wt .-% with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives preferably add up to 100% by weight,
• - And their mixtures.

Especially good nourishing properties can be achieved if one of the two active ingredient components of the active substance complex (A) used in the native or possibly solubilized form becomes. It is also possible to have a mixture of several active ingredients (A1) and / or (A2).

It may be preferred that the two active compounds (A1) and (A2) in Ratio from 10:90 to 70:30, especially 15:85 to 50:50 and especially 20:80 to 40:60, based on their respective Contents of active substance in the inventive Funds are used.

The derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and the derivatives prepared therefrom may be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis to be won. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives which can be used according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in US Pat "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk. As typical examples of the anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention are those under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products mentioned: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk or Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk. Finally, typical examples of the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention are the products available commercially under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed Silk and Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Also useful in the present invention, although not necessarily preferred, are the commercially available products having the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1 , Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk.

The Effect of the active substance complex (A) can be achieved by the addition of fatty substances be further increased. By fatty substances are meant fatty acids, Fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes which are both in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion can exist, and natural and synthetic understand cosmetic oil components.

Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, eg. As soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), Hydrolupin ^® (Croda) , hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures obtained otherwise may optionally be used instead. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda), Crosilk ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course The teaching of the invention includes all isomers Forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates use.

The Protein hydrolysates are in the inventive For example, in concentrations of 0.01 wt .-% up to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 wt .-% up to 15 wt .-% and completely more preferably in amounts of from 0.05% to 5% by weight, respectively based on the entire application preparation included.

When Nursing substance of another class of compounds are still cationic Surfactants suitable.

Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines type are preferred according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those listed under the INCI names Quaterni um-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

The cationic surfactants are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire application preparation included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

When Care substance are also caring polymers. It was on This point noted that some nourishing polymers also have film-forming and / or strengthening properties, and therefore also in the enumeration of suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers.

A first group of caring polymers are the cationic polymers. Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

in der R¹ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R², R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C_1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (G1-I) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:
R¹ steht für eine Methylgruppe
R², R³ und R⁴ stehen für Methylgruppen
m hat den Wert 2.Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-1),

wherein R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C _1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
R ¹ is a methyl group
R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups
m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically compatible counterions X ^- are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or Sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (C1-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686 ,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – Polysiloxane mit quartären Gruppen, wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning^® 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl-amino-modifiziertes Silikon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil^®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium- 80),
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686 .
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• Quaternary group polysiloxanes, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt.), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80)
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Further cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.

Cationic polymers preferably used according to the invention are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen HCMF ^® and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercially available product ^® Honeyquat 50, according to the cationic Alkylpolyglycodside DE-PS 44 13 686 and polyquaternium-37 type polymers.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or Kerstin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropy l Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

All particularly preferred are the cationic protein hydrolysates and Derivatives on a vegetable basis.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (II), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵ A^(–) (II)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ jeweils unabhängig voneinander für eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (III), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (III)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe stehen.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (II), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (II) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} each independently an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (III), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (III) in which R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

The Means according to the invention contain the caring, cationic and / or amphoteric polymers in a preferred manner in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.

Further Preferred agents n according to the invention are characterized characterized in that they additionally care substance (s) - related on their weight - in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and especially 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, with preferred Pflegstoff (s) are selected from the group

• L-carnitine and / or its salts;
• ii. Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid;
• iii. the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone;
• iv. Taurine and / or its salts;
• v. niacinamide;
• vi. ubiquinone
• vii. Ectoin;
• viii. Allantoin.

L-carnitine (IUPAC-Name (R) - (3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl) -N, N, N-trimethylammonium) is a naturally occurring, vitamin-like Substance. It plays an essential role in energy metabolism human, animal and plant cells. L-carnitine can over different ways are gained on an industrial scale. For example, one, the body's biosynthesis imitating, biotechnological process: in large fermentation tanks is the precursor of L-carnitine (γ-butyrobetaine) with the help of Gram-negative bacteria (rhizobia) in L-carnitine implemented.

When Betaine can form L-carnitine addition compounds and double salts. According to the invention preferred L-carnitine derivatives are in particular selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl L-carnitine and especially preferred L-carnitine tartrate. The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are, for example, of the Company Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany) available.

invention preferred hair cleansers are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 bis 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular Contain 0.05 to 2.5% by weight of L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, preferred L-carnitine derivatives are selected from Acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.

panthenol (IUPAC name: (+) - (R) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide) is converted into pantothenic acid in the body. Pantothenic acid is a vitamin from the group of B vitamins (Vitamin B5).

invention preferred hair cleansers are characterized in that they - based on its weight is -0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 1% by weight of panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide) contain.

in welchen die Reste R¹ bis R¹³ unabhängig voneinander stehen für:

• – Wasserstoff, -OH, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl- oder Hydroxymethylrest,
• – -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -NR¹²R¹³, wobei R¹² und R¹³ jeweils unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COOR¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -CONR¹⁵R¹⁶, wobei R¹⁵ und R¹⁶ jeweils stehen für Wasserstoff, Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COR¹⁶, wobei R¹⁶ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OCOR¹⁷, wobei R¹⁷ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,

mit der Maßgabe, daß für den Fall, wenn R⁷ und R⁸ für -OH und gleichzeitig R⁹ oder R¹⁰ für Wasserstoff stehen, die verbleibende Gruppe R⁹ oder R¹⁰ nicht für einen Dihydroxyethylrest steht.Hair cleansers preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7 , 5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur-I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)

in which the radicals R ¹ to R ^{13 are} independently of one another

• Hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical,
• --C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,
• - _-C2-4 - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• --C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• - a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• - a group -NR ¹² R ¹³ , wherein R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• A group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbyl radical,
• - a group -CONR ¹⁵ R ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁵ and R ¹⁶ each represent hydrogen, methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• A group -COR ¹⁶ , where R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or -or- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• - a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or one or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical,

with the proviso that when R ⁷ and R ^{8 are} -OH and at the same time R ⁹ or R ^{10 is} hydrogen, the remaining group R ⁹ or R ¹⁰ does not represent a dihydroxyethyl radical.

The Compounds of the formulas (Fur-I) and (Fur-II) are used as intermediates in the synthesis of natural products as well as the production of medicines and vitamins used. The preparation of the active ingredients according to the Formulas (Fur-I) and (Fur-II) can be converted, for example, by reaction of primary alcohols with acrylic acids. Furthermore, compounds of the formula (Fur-I) are obtained by reactions starting from hydroxypivaldehyde. Also carry carbonylations of alkyls to substituted 2-furanones of the formula (Fur-I) or (Fur-II). Finally, the connections can of the formula (Fur-I) or of the formula (Fur-II) by intramolecular Esterification of the corresponding hydroxycarboxylic obtained become. For example, the following connections are on one of the above-identified synthetic routes: 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone, Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone, or 3,4-dimethyl-5-pentylidenedihydro-2 (5H) -furanone or 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone. The 2-furanones according to the invention include of course all possible stereoisomers as well as their mixtures. By the 2-Furanone invention is the smell of cosmetic products are not permanently affected, so that a Perfuming the funds must be done separately.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -NR¹²R¹³, wobei R¹² und R¹³ jeweils unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COOR¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COR¹⁶, wobei R¹⁶ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OCOR¹⁷, wobei R¹⁷ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyhydroxyalkylrest, oder einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyaminokohlenwasserstoffrest.

Preferred compounds of the formula (fur-I) and / or of the formula (fur-II) may be compounds in which the substituents R ¹ , R ² and R ⁷ independently of one another represent:

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• - a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• - a group -NR ¹² R ¹³ , wherein R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• A group -COOR ¹⁴ , wherein R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or - or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• A group -COR ¹⁶ , where R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or -or- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• - a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or one or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical, or a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest oder
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest.

In a further embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it has been found that in the case of the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) or of the formula (Fur-II), the radicals R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{8 are} preferably, independently of one another,

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,
• - a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical or
• - a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest oder
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest.

Furthermore, it may be preferred for the radicals R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ in the active substance according to the formula (I) and / or formula (II) according to the invention independently of one another to be:

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,
• - a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical or
• - a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COOR¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COR¹⁶, wobei R¹⁶ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OCOR¹⁷, wobei R¹⁷ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, a compound of the formula (Fur-I) is used. It may be preferred that in a compound of the formula (fur-I), the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently of one another:

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• - a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• A group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• A group -COR ¹⁶ , where R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or -or- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• - a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or one or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COOR¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OCOR¹⁷, wobei R¹⁷ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₃₀- gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- und/oder Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

Furthermore, in this particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it may be advantageous if in the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) the radicals R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent:

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• - a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• A group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• - a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or one or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- and / or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical.

• – einen -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

In this preferred embodiment, it may furthermore be advantageous for the compounds of the formula (Fur I) for the radicals R 5 and R 6 to stand independently for:

• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• - a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon radical.

• – (R)-(–)-4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – D,L-4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – (S)-(+)-4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – R-(–)-2-Hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – D,L-2-Hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – S(+)-2-Hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – 4-Hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3(2H)-furanon und/oder
• – Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure und/oder
• – Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure, Na-Salz und/oder
• – Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure, K-Salz und/oder
• – 2,5-Dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanon und/oder
• – Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon

eingesetzt. In einer ganz besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der erfindungsgemäßen Lehre wird als Verbindung entsprechend der Formel (Fur-I) Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon eingesetzt.In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as the compound according to the formula (Fur-I)

• - (R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• - D, L-4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• - (S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• - R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• - D, L-2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• - S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone and / or
• - Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure and / or
• - Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure, Na salt and / or
• Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, K salt and / or
• 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone and / or
• Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone

used. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as a compound corresponding to the formula (Fur-I) dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone.

One Another, more preferred care enhancer, the activating Possesses properties, is the taurine. According to the invention preferred Hair cleansers contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

Another preferred group of skin care enhancers in the compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
The group of substances called vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A,) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt (siehe weiter unten). Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group (see below). Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire funds used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is commonly used essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound becomes (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid but for the meantime the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

In summary, preference is given to hair cleansing compositions according to the invention which, based on their weight, are 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably Contain 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors, preferably the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. 2,4,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₃ , vitamin B ₅ ) and / or niacin , Niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B ₁ ) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B ₇ , Vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin B ₁₂ .

enthalten in der
X, Y, Z stehen unabhängig voneinander für -O- oder -NH- oder NR⁴- oder eine chemische Bindung
R¹, R², R³ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine gegebenenfalls substituierte Arylgruppe oder eine gegebenenfalls substituierte (C₁-C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Hydroxyalkylgruppe oder eine Polyhydroxyalkylgruppe oder eine gegebenenfalls substituierte (C₁-C₆)-Alkylengruppe, oder einen (C₁-C₆)-Acylrest, wobei bevorzugte Reste unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -(CH₂)₂CH₂, -CH(CH₃)₂, -(CH₂)₃CH₃, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -C(CH₃)₃
R⁴ steht für -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -(CH₂)₂CH₂, -CH(CH₃)₂, -(CH₂)₃CH₃, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -C(CH₃)₃
n steht für Werte von 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 15 und insbesondere für 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.It has been shown that certain quinones have particular suitability as a care enhancer. As a further care enhancer, the compositions according to the invention may therefore contain from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)

contained in the
X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR ⁴ - or a chemical bond
R ¹ , R ² , R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₆ ) - Alkylene group, or a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -acyl radical, preferred radicals being selected independently of one another from -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃
R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃
n stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

in denen
R¹, R², R³ stehen jeweils unabhängig voneinander für -H, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -(CH₂)₂CH₂, -CH(CH₃)₂, -(CH₂)₃CH₃, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -C(CH₃)₃
R⁴ steht für -CH₃, oder -CH₂CH₃, oder -(CH₂)₂CH₂, oder -CH(CH₃)₂
n steht für Werte von 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 15 und insbesondere für 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.Preferred compounds of the formula (Ubi) according to the invention are, for example

in which
R ¹ , R ² , R ³ are each independently -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃
R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , or -CH ₂ CH ₃ , or - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂
n stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

in der n für die Werte = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10, besonders bevorzugt für 10 (Coenzym Q10) steht.Particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% containing at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)

in which n stands for the values = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).

in der n für Werte von 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 15 und insbesondere für 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 steht, wobei besonders bevorzugt Mittel Plastochinon PQ-9 der Formel

enthalten.As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones. Here, preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-b)

in which n stands for values of 1 to 20, preferably of 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, whereby particularly preferred means Plastochinon PQ-9 of the formula

contain.

When further care enhancers may be the inventive Means Ectoin included. Ectoine ((4S) -2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid) is a natural product belonging to the group of compatible solutes. The strongly water-binding low molecular weight organic compound occurs in halophilic bacteria and allows them to survive extremophilic organisms under stress conditions. According to the invention preferred hair cleanser are characterized in that they - related on their weight - 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight of (S) -2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (Ectoin) and the physiologically acceptable salts of these Compound and / or (S, S) -5-hydroxy-2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (Hydroxyectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts this compound, included.

One Another nurse enhancer is allantoin. Allantoin (5-ureido-hydantoin, N- (2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl) urea) is at various Animal species, especially in mammals, in addition to uric acid the end product of the degradation of nucleic acids, especially of Purine bases.

allantoin is used in cosmetics in skin creams, sunscreens, shaving waters, in toothpaste and in remedies against excessive Perspiration (hyperhidrosis) and skin irritations used. It causes the acceleration of cell building, cell formation or cell regeneration and soothes the skin. Also the cure hard-healing wounds is supported, but possesses Allantoin no antiseptic properties.

invention contain particularly preferred hair cleanser - related on their weight - 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight of 5-ureidohydantoin (allantoin).

to Improvement of elasticity and strengthening of the inner Structure of treated with agents of the invention Hair can the agents of the invention Purine and / or purine derivatives as a care enhancer included. Especially the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones as a care enhancer causes that the treated with appropriate means hair, among others higher values for differential thermal analysis and show improved wet and dry combabilities.

Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

preferred agents according to the invention contain purine and / or Purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are preferred according to the invention Cosmetic compositions characterized in that they - related on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s) included.

in der die Reste R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -OH, NH₂, -SH und die Reste R⁴, R⁵ und R⁶ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -CH₃ und -CH₂-CH₃, wobei folgende Verbindungen bevorzugt sind:

• – Purin (R¹ = R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Adenin (R¹ = NH₂, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Guanin (R¹ = OH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Harnsäure (R¹ = R² = R³ = OH, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Hypoxanthin (R¹ = OH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – 6-Purinthiol (R¹ = SH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – 6-Thioguanin (R¹ = SH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Xanthin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Coffein (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theobromin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = H, R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theophyllin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = CH₃, R⁵ = CH₃, R⁶ = H).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. According to the invention preferred hair cleansers are characterized in that they are used as care enhancers - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt. % and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), wherein preferred agents purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (Pur-I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH, NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , where the following compounds are preferred:

• Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• - Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

It is also advantageous, purine or purine derivatives and biochinones in a certain relationship to each other. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in the weight ratio of purine (derivative (s)) and Biochinone (s) 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 5: 1 to 1:50, especially preferably 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1:10.

As already mentioned, caffeine is a particularly preferred Purine derivative, and the coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred Bioquinone. Particularly preferred invention Means are therefore characterized in that they - related on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of caffeine and 0.0002 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, further preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.

When Nursing enhancers may be the invention Agents also contain flavonoids. The flavonoids are a group of water-soluble plant dyes and play one important role in the metabolism of many plants. you belong along with the phenolic acids to the polyphenols. There are Well over 6,500 different flavonoids are known into flavonols, flavones, flavanones, isoflavonoids and anthocyanins to divide.

According to the invention Flavonoids are used from all six groups, with specific representatives from the individual groups as a care-enhancer because of their particular intense effect are preferred. Preferred flavonols are quercetin, Rutin, kaempferol, myricetin, isorhamnetin, preferred flavanols are catechin, gallocatechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, Theaflavin, thearubigin, preferred flavones are luteolin, apigenin, Morin, preferred flavanones are hesperetin, naringenin, eriodictyol, preferred isoflavonoids are genistein, daidzein, and preferred Anthocyanins (anthocyanins) are cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, Pelargonidin, peonidin, petunidin.

Particularly according to the invention preferred hair cleansers are characterized in that they - related on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% flavonoids, in particular flavonols, particularly preferred 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone (quercetin) and / or 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-O-rutinoside (rutin), contain.

enthalten.Preference is also the use of bisabolol and / or bisabololoxides as care enhancers in the inventive compositions. Hair-cleansing compositions according to the invention which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 4 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt.% And in particular 0.1 to 1.5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol

contain.

Also Creatine is suitable according to the invention as a care enhancer. Creatine (3-methylguanidinoacetic acid) is an organic Acid present in vertebrates u. a. to supply the muscles contributes with energy. Creatine is in the kidney, the liver and synthesized in the pancreas. She leads Formally derived from the amino acids glycine and arginine is 95% present in skeletal muscle. Particularly preferred invention Hair cleansers contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% N-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid (creatine).

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the ingredients mentioned above and optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below:
Propecia (Finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.

minoxidil is probably the oldest with or without supplementary additives proven hair restorer. For the treatment of hair loss it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions that contain 2% -5% minoxidil, as well Gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness decreases with the dosage to, in hair waters Minoxidil but only up to 5% proportion is soluble. In many countries, hair tonic is minoxidil content up to 2% available without prescription.

to Combating hormonal effects on The hair follicle may be used externally for spironolactone applied in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil become. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, i. H. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.

In summary hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred, the additional - based on its weight - 0.001 up to 5% by weight hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

By additional antidandruff active ingredients (for example climbazole, Piroctone oil amines or zinc pyrithione) will increase the amount of Shed-causing yeast specifically reduces the germ flora again reaches the normal percentage composition and the Desquamation is reduced to the physiological level. However, laboratory tests have proven that the different Species representatives of the Pityrosporum ovale do well on the Antidandruff active ingredients react. To maximize all dandruff To fight is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff agents most successful.

In summary, preference is given to hair cleansers according to the invention which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone oleamines (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc Py rithion and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.

When Nursing material is also suitable for a range of carboxylic acids.

Advantageous In the context of the invention, in particular short-chain Be carboxylic acids. Under short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids which is saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or may be heterocyclic and a molecular weight smaller than 750. Preferred for the purposes of the invention saturated or unsaturated straight chain or branched carboxylic acids with one chain length from 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, most preferably are those with a chain length of 1 to 12 carbon atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids which can be used according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids which can be used according to the invention include, for example, C ₁ -C ₈ -alkyl, C ₂ -C ₈ -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C ₂ -C ₈ -hydroxyalkyl, C ₂ -C ₈ hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C ₂ -C ₈ aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in α-position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

in der Z steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppe mit 4 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, n für eine Zahl von 4 bis 12 sowie eine der beiden Gruppen X und Y für eine COOH-Gruppe und die andere für Wasserstoff oder einen Methyl- oder Ethylrest, Dicarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (N-I), die zusätzlich noch 1 bis 3 Methyl- oder Ethylsubstituenten am Cyclohexenring tragen sowie Dicarbonsäuren, die aus den Dicarbonsäuren gemäß Formel (N-I) formal durch Anlagerung eines Moleküls Wasser an die Doppelbindung im Cyclohexenring entstehen.Examples of carboxylic acids which can be used according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, Isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6 , 6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalene pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by Ver compounds of general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) are known in the literature. This is for example US-A 3,753,968 to take a manufacturing process.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one will assume a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component. Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils. As a monocarboxylic acid component in particular acrylic acid, but also z. For example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred. Normally, in the case of reactions according to Diels-Alder, isomer mixtures in which one component is present in excess are formed. These isomer mixtures can according to the invention as well as the pure compounds be used.

Usable according to the invention in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to the formula (N-I) are also those dicarboxylic acids that are different from the Compounds according to formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 Differentiate methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or from these compounds formally by addition of a molecule Water are formed on the double bond of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^{® ®} 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

Next the short-chain carboxylic acids previously exemplified even their physiologically compatible Salts are used according to the invention. Examples for such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which in the context of the present application also the mono-, di- and trimethyl, -ethyl and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts to be understood. Especially preferred may be in the frame of the invention, however, with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine Acids are used. Furthermore, it may be for formulation reasons be preferred, the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is inventively preferred to use 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and derivatives thereof as the carboxylic acid. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion in addition to hydrogen carries one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, and particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids. It has been found that, in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. As the alcohol component of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for. As fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g. B. under the trademark Cosmacol ^® from EniChem Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

additionally to the care enhancers can di according to the invention Means contain further care substances. Their presence is for the achievement of the effects of the invention not absolutely necessary, but further effects, like a pleasant grip or a pleasant application feel result from the use of these care substances.

When another ingredient can the inventive Agent with particular preference one or more amino acids contain. Particularly preferred according to the invention usable amino acids are from the group glycine, Alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, Proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, Glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, where Both the individual amino acids and mixtures are used can.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred hair cleansing compositions are characterized in that they are used as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, be particularly preferably 0.05 to 1.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

• – Monosachhariden, insbesondere
• – D-Ribose und/oder
• – D-Xylose und/oder
• – L-Arabinose und/oder
• – D-Glucose und/oder
• – D-Mannose und/oder
• – D-Galactose und/oder
• – D-Fructose und/oder
• – Sorbose und/oder
• – L-Fucose und/oder
• – L-Rhamnose
• – Disacchariden, insbesondere
• – Saccharose und/oder
• – Maltose und/oder
• – Lactose und/oder
• – Trehalose und/oder
• – Cellobiose und/oder
• – Gentiobiose und/oder
• – Isomaltose.

As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here are preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention characterized in that they are used as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected out

• - Monosaccharides, in particular
• D-ribose and / or
• - D-xylose and / or
• - L-arabinose and / or
• D-glucose and / or
• - D-mannose and / or
• D-galactose and / or
• - D-fructose and / or
• - sorbose and / or
• - L-fucose and / or
• - L-rhamnose
• - Disaccharides, in particular
• - sucrose and / or
• - maltose and / or
• - lactose and / or
• - Trehalose and / or
• Cellobiose and / or
• - Gentiobiose and / or
• - Isomaltose.

• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose.

As already mentioned, contain preferred inventive Middle (one) amino acid (s).

Particularly according to the invention preferably usable amino acids are from the group Glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, Tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, Asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, Arginine, histidine, β-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), Betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, where both the individual amino acids as well as mixtures can be used.

preferred Compositions according to the invention contain one or more Amino acids in narrower ranges. Here are preferred according to the invention Cosmetic agents, characterized in that they additionally - 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of amino acid (s), preferably (an) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or Alanain and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine contain.

• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin,
• – 0,005 bis 0,015 Gew.-% Coffein und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,
• 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine.

Farther may in a preferred embodiment of the invention an agent according to the invention also UV filter (I) contain. The invention to be used UV filters are subject to structural and physical considerations Features no general restrictions. Much more All UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable Absorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers. The UV filters used according to the invention For example, they can be selected from substituted ones Benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane -propane-1,3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhexy ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamate (Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo ^® Heliopan AV), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor ( 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 ' -oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG ), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilate; Neo Heli OPAN ^® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-yl) yliden) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2 Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-) carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2- oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. In the context of the invention, water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, should these compounds in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to one Another embodiment of the invention are those UV filters preferably a cationic group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

Of the Structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing radiation Group. This group can in principle be distinguished from the known, in the Cosmetic area usable, derived above UV filters, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary Amino function, is replaced.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamic acid amide or N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide derive, are preferred according to the invention.

The Structural parts U can be chosen in principle be that the absorption maximum of the UV filter both in the UVA (315-400 nm) - as well as in the UVB (280-315 nm) - or in UVC (<280 nm) range can be. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Farther becomes the structural part U, also depending on structural part Q, preferably chosen so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, in particular above from 20000, lies.

Of the Structural part Q preferably contains as a cationic group a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so the structural part U is one of the four substituents of the represents a positively charged nitrogen atom. However, it is preferred one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, as the connection between the structural part U and the positively charged Nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

physiological Compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, especially chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, Tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and Dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyl-tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course includes the teaching of the invention also the use of a combination of multiple UV filters. As part of In this embodiment, the combination is at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter preferred with a cationic group.

The UV filters (I) are customary in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent, contain. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

additionally It may prove advantageous if in the inventive Agents contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are. These include, for example, urea and Urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its Derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ether, Propylene glycol and propylene glycol ether, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

Advantageous For the purposes of the invention may additionally short-chain Carboxylic acids (N) support the active ingredient complex (A). Among short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the For the purposes of the invention, carboxylic acids are understood which saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic may be and have a molecular weight less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain be particularly preferred are those with a chain length from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred in Meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, especially di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be used, in whole or in part, as ester, acid anhydride, lactone, Amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, Hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonated or phosphate ester. The inventively used Of course, carboxylic acids can be used substituted along the carbon chain or ring skeleton be. To the substituents of the invention used Carboxylic acids are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl-, Aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8 hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C2-C8-aminoalkyl, cyano, Formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or Imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, hydroxymethyl-, Hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in ⎌ position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, wherein the amino function optionally by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals can be further substituted. Furthermore, they are also preferred Carboxylic acid derivatives, the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty ureal alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Prefers can the compositions of the invention at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18 included. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value from 10-15 can according to the invention especially be preferred.

In Dependence on the nature of the invention By means of it may be necessary that these continue at least contain a surfactant. This is especially true for skin cleansers and shampoos. But other means, such as hair conditioners, Hair conditioners and certain styling agents, in particular styling foams, may contain surfactants.

For example Cationic surfactants can be used as they already are are described above as suitable care agents. In terms of the preferred cationic surfactants and the amounts used apply above statements accordingly.

Next or instead of the cationic surfactants, the agents may be further Surfactants or emulsifiers, where in principle both anionic as well as ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and all types of known Emulsifiers are suitable. The group of ampholytic or too Amphoteric surfactants include zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants may already have emulsifying effect.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I),
  
  in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR¹ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II) R⁷CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (E1-II)in der R⁷CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III)
  
  in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus C₈-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten, welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon^®-Typen, Gluadin^®-Typen, Hostapon^® KCG oder die Amisoft^®-Typen.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of hydroxysulfonates,
• Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),
  
  in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in which R ⁷ CO is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk is CH ₂ CH _2, CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH _3, n is a number from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as in the DE-OS 197 36 906 are described
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)
  
  in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - amide ether carboxylic acids,
• - condensation products of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® grades, Gluadin ^® grades, Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® grades ,

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerisulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group , Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I)in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II)in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (E4-II) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d. h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muß und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside bevorzugt, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1,2 und 1,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R⁴ kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 11, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol und Undecylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Hydrierung von technischen Fettsäuremethylestern oder im Verlauf der Hydrierung von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese erhalten werden. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside der Kettenlänge C₈-C₁₀ (DP = 1 bis 3), die als Vorlauf bei der destillativen Auftrennung von technischem C₈-C₁₈-Kokosfettalkohol anfallen und mit einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.-% C₁₂-Alkohol verunreinigt sein können sowie Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis technischer C_9/11-Oxoalkohole (DP = 1 bis 3). Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R¹⁵ kann sich ferner auch von primären Alkoholen mit 12 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Gemische, die wie oben beschrieben erhalten werden können. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis von gehärtetem C_12/14-Kokosalkohol mit einem DP von 1 bis 3.
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, ein nichtionisches Tensid der Formel (E4-III),
  
  in der R⁵CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁶ für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. Bei den Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamiden handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die üblicherweise durch reduktive Aminierung eines reduzierenden Zuckers mit Ammoniak, einem Alkylamin oder einem Alkanolamin und nachfolgende Acylierung mit einer Fettsäure, einem Fettsäurealkylester oder einem Fettsäurechlorid erhalten werden können. Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (E4-IV) wiedergegeben werden: R⁷CO-NR⁶-CH₂-(CHOH)₄CH₂OH (E4-IV)Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (E4-IV) eingesetzt, in der R⁸ für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R⁷CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. technischer Mischungen dieser Säuren steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide der Formel (E4-IV), die durch reduktive Aminierung von Glucose mit Methylamin und anschließende Acylierung mit Laurinsäure oder C12/14-Kokosfettsäure bzw. einem entsprechenden Derivat erhalten werden. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palatinose ableiten.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - With a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms derived. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),
  
  R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R ⁷ CO-NR ⁶ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH (E4-IV) The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ^{7 is} CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or technical mixtures of these acids. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties will also be obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.

These Connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such Examples of alkyl radicals are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-Lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as Starting materials predominate compounds with an odd Number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

Farther may contain the sugar surfactants as nonionic surfactants be. These are preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, based to the respective entire composition. Quantities of 0.5 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred, and most preferably are amounts of 0.5 to 7.5 wt .-%.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material receives dependent alkyl chain lengths.

The surfactants which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homologues distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The other surfactants are usually in amounts of 0.1 to 45 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 30 wt .-% and most preferably of 0.5 up to 25% by weight, based on the respective total composition, used. The amount used depends considerably on which purpose the agent according to the invention Fulfills. Is it a shampoo or another detergent, also amounts of surfactant over 45 wt .-% are common.

The Means can continue in addition to the components mentioned all known for corresponding cosmetic agents active, Additives and auxiliaries included.

Further Active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example

• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite, fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. Polyvinyl alcohol, and optionally cross-linked polyacrylates, silicates (eg. B. Laponite XLG ^®), gelling thickener (z. B. Structure ^® 2001 Synthylen ^® 2000),
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, Isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone oil amines, Zinc Omadine and climbazole,
• Substances for adjusting the pH, such as conventional Acids, in particular edible acids, and bases,
• - cholesterol,
• - Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol,
• - Fats and waxes like spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• - Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• - Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and Styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate as well as PEG-3-distearate,
• Preservatives,
• Stabilizer for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidants,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants.

In terms of additional optional components as well as the quantities used These components are expressly referred to the person skilled in the art Referred to known relevant manuals.

The Formulation of the compositions of the invention can in all forms customary for cosmetic products, for example in the form of solutions or hair lotion or pump or aerosol spray on the skin or the Hair can be applied in the form of creams, emulsions, Waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations intended for use on the Skin or hair are suitable.

Preferably, however, the agents according to the invention are agents for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, ie, styling agents. Preferred styling agents are styling gels, pump hair sprays, aerosol hair spray, pump hair foams and aerosol hair foams.

styling gels is in the context of the present application, the generic term for clear or cloudy products, styling waxes, styling creams, Styling lotions, styling jellies, etc. Ultimately fall under these Term all means of hairdressing hair, not hair sprays or foams are.

Under Hair foams are understood to mean compositions, when removing from a suitable container a To form foam. It may be necessary to use the ingredients ingredients added, which promote the foaming or once formed Stabilize foam. In particular, surfactants are suitable for this purpose and / or emulsifiers, as already described above. Preferably surfactants from the group of cationic surfactants are used.

hair creams and hair gels usually contain structurants and / or thickening Polymers that serve the desired products To give consistency. Structural and / or thickening polymers are typically in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire product. Amounts of from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred. Since the inventively used However, polymer combination has self-thickening properties, is the addition of further structural and / or thickening polymers not mandatory. Preferably, the inventive No further structuring agents and / or thickening polymers.

Provided it is in the inventive agents to a Aerosolprodukt, this contains a mandatory propellant.

Suitable blowing agents according to the invention are, for example, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air and alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

Prefers be mentioned alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or Mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether as the sole blowing agent used. However, the invention expressly includes the concomitant use of chlorofluorocarbon blowing agents, but especially the fluorocarbons.

about the ratio of blowing agent to the rest Components of the preparations can be used with a given spray device the sizes of the aerosol droplets or the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution to adjust.

The The amount of propellant used varies depending on from the concrete composition of the product, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When using conventional sprayers aerosol foam products contain the blowing agent preferably in amounts from 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product. Quantities of From 2 to 30% by weight, especially from 3 to 15% by weight, are especially prefers. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger ones Amounts of propellant. The propellant is preferred in this Case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total Product, used. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular of 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The Aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. In general, all components of the respective agent with Exception of the propellant in a suitable pressure-resistant container filled. This is then closed with a valve. about Conventional techniques will eventually become the desired ones Amount of propellant filled.

One The second object of the invention is therefore a method in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention the hair as a pump hair spray, aerosol hair spray, pump hair foam, aerosol hair foam or Styling gel is applied and, if necessary, with the palms and / or the fingers are incorporated into the hair.

For the method according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis what was said about the agents according to the invention.

The desired deformation of the hair can be done with the fingers or hands as well as with appropriate, conventional ones Aids such as comb or brush done.

One third object of the invention is the use of the invention Means for temporary deformation of keratinous fibers.

The agents and products of this invention In particular, the fact that they contain give treated hair a very strong hairstyle hold, without while making the hair brittle or inflexible. Much more a pleasant, soft grip is achieved.

Of the Stop the deformation, also known as hairstyle hold, as well as flexibility, Elasticity and plasticity are in the sense of of the present invention according to the omega-loop method.

To becomes a dry strand of hair (Euro natural hair of the company Kerling, Kleβesse tight, glued on one side, total length 150 mm, free length 130 mm, width 10 mm, weight 0.9 ± 0.1 g) for 30 seconds to the bottom of the taping in immersed the polymer solution to be examined. Subsequently will the excess solution between Thumb and forefinger struck off, leaving 0.5 ± 0.02 g of the solution remain on the hair. The with the to be examined Solution saturated hair strand is around a Teflon cylinder with a diameter of 36 mm wound and the protruding ends are fixed with a clip. The prepared strands are then over Night at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity or at 25 ° C and 75% relative humidity dried and conditioned in the climatic chamber.

The Conditioned tress is carefully removed from the Teflon cylinder away. The resulting Ω loop, an annular Structure of the polymer film formed in its shape stabilized hair, is in the attached to the load cell gripper clamped and close to the bottom plate of a universal tester AMETEK LF Plus from AMETEK Precision Instuments Europe GmbH, Product group Lloyd lowered. The entire measurement takes place in the climatic chamber under constant climatic conditions at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity or at 25 ° C and 75% relative Humidity.

To establish standardized starting conditions, the measurement starts with the start of a pre-load of 0.07 N at a speed of 30 mm min ^-1 . Subsequently, the Ω loop is compressed by 8 mm at a speed of 60 mm min ^-1 , whereby the required force is measured. After the characteristic force F _{1 has been recorded} at the maximum deformation of 8 mm, the strand is relieved to 60 mm min ^-1 so that it lifts 10 mm from the bottom plate. From here, the next cycle begins by re-starting the pre-load of 0.07 N and then compressing the tress by 8 mm, at the same speeds as described above. The measurement of an Ω-loop comprises a total of 10 cycles.

(gibt das Verhältnis der Maximalkräfte des zehnten zum ersten Zyklus an)

(mit H₁ = 9 mm und H₁₀ = 9 mm + dauerhafte plastische Verformung der Strähne)

(zur Berechnung der Elastizität werden aus dem ersten und zehnten Zyklus jeweils die Kräfte zur Verformung um 1,5 mm und 2 mm erfasst und miteinander ins Verhältnis gesetzt).This measurement method can be used to determine four characteristic parameters for describing the mechanical properties of film-forming polymers. Hold, flexibility, plasticity and elasticity can be calculated from the measured forces according to the following formulas: Halt = F 1 [N] (F ₁ corresponds to the maximum force of the measurement)

(indicates the ratio of the maximum forces of the tenth to the first cycle)

(with H ₁ = 9 mm and H ₁₀ = 9 mm + permanent plastic deformation of the strand)

(To calculate elasticity, the first and tenth cycles become forces for deformation respectively detected by 1.5 mm and 2 mm and set in relation to each other).

Examples

The The following quantities are understood - as far as nothing other noted - in weight percent.

1 product

• ¹Copolymerisat aus Natriumacrylat, Vinyl Neodecanoat (ca. 29 Gew.-% Festkörper in Wasser, INCI-Bezeichnung: ACRYLATESNINYL NEODECANOATE CROSSPOLYMER)
• ²Polyacrylsäure (Feststoff); INCI-Bezeichnung: Carbomer (3 V Sigma)

The inventive styling agents A to F were prepared according to the following table. raw materials A B C D e F Aculyn 38 ¹ 6.5 10 10 10 7.5 10 Synthalen K ² 1.25 1.0 1.25 1.25 1.0 1.0 phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, 60% in water 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 95% 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 - - 96% ethanol 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 - - Na methylparaben 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 - - Benzophenone-4 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 D-panthenol 75% 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Ectoin - - - - 0.1 0.2 allantoin - - - - 0.1 0.1 caffeine - - - - 0.1 0.1 Perfume 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water, demineralized ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

• ¹ copolymer of sodium acrylate, vinyl neodecanoate (about 29% by weight of solids in water, INCI name: ACRYLATESNINYL NEODECANOATE CROSSPOLYMER)
• ² polyacrylic acid (solid); INCI name: Carbomer (3 V Sigma)

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - DE 4413686 [0197, 0200]
• WO 92/13829 [0223]
• - US 3753968 A [0258]
• - DE 19736906 [0301]
• - DE 19738866 [0305]

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0178]
• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0178]
• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0201]

Claims (55)

Cosmetic composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one copolymer A which contains at least one structural unit of formula (I)

in which R _{1 is} -H or -CH ₃ and R _{2 is} -H or -CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - and at least one more of structural unit (I) contains different structural unit according to formula (II)

in which R 1 and R 2 are independent and R 3 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched Kohlgig of -CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH (CH ₃ ) _2- hydrogen radical, b) at least one acrylate polymer B selected from b1) polyacrylic acid and / or b2) copolymers of methacrylic acid with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and / or b3) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and acrylic esters and / or b4) copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid with acrylic esters and methacrylic acid esters and / or or b5) copolymers of acrylic acid esters with methacrylic acid Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the copolymer A contains structural units of the formula (Ia)

wherein R is -H or -CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ . Agent according to one of Claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the copolymer A contains structural units of the formula (II)

contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains copolymer (e) A with molecular weights from 10 to 750 kDa, preferably from 25 to 500 kDa, more preferred from 30 to 400 kDa and especially from 4 to 250 kDa. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of copolymer (s) A contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains copolymer (e) A, the 10 to 95 mol%, preferably 15 to 85 mol% and in particular 20 to 80 mol .-% of monomers of the formula (I) and - 5 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 7.5 to 80 mol .-% and in particular 10 up to 60 mol% of monomers of the formula (II) contain. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is polyacrylic acids as polymer b1 with a molecular weight of 10 to 250 kDa, preferably from 25 to 200 kDa, more preferably from 50 to 150 kDa and especially from 70 up to 100 kDa. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% polymer (s) contains b1. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is copolymer b2 copolymers of methacrylic acid with acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid with a molecular weight of 100 to 2500 kDa, preferably from 250 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1750 kDa and in particular from 800 to 1500 kDa. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (e) b2 contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is copolymer b3 copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and acrylic esters with a molecular weight of 50 to 500 kDa, preferably from 100 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 300 kDa and in particular from 200 to 250 kDa, contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% copolymer (e) b3 contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is a copolymer b4 copolymers of acrylic acid with methacrylic acid and ethoxylated Acrylic acid esters and ethoxylated methacrylic acid esters with a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 200 to 300 kDa and in particular from 225 to 275 kDa, contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-% of copolymer (s) b4 contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it is copolymer b5 copolymers of acrylic acid esters with methacrylic acid with a Molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably of 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 200 to 300 kDa and especially from 225 to 275 kDa, contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (s) b5 contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it contains at least one further copolymer C which contains - at least one structural unit according to formula (CI)

wherein - R is a C ₁ - C ₆ alkenyl group means up or a C ₂ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group, and - - to C ₃₀ -alkyl group, a C ₁ - to C ₄ aralkyl group, a C ₂ X ^- is a physiologically acceptable Anion is - and contains at least one further structural unit according to formula (C-II)

wherein n is 1, 2 or 3 as the number of methylene units. Composition according to claim 17, characterized in that it contains as copolymer C a copolymer C1 which contains - at least one structural unit of the formula (CI)

wherein R is a methyl group and X is methosulfate, - contains at least further structural unit according to formula (C-II)

where n is 1 methylene units. Composition according to one of claims 17 or 18, characterized in that the copolymer C or C1 10th to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and especially 20 Mol .-% structural units according to formula (C-I) and 70 to 90 mol%, preferably 75 to 85 mol%, and especially 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-II) contains. Agent according to one of claims 17 to 19, characterized in that the copolymer C or C1 has a molecular weight of 50 to 400 kDa, preferably 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably 150 to 250 kDa and in particular from 190 to 210 kDa. Agent according to one of claims 17 to 20, characterized in that it contains as copolymer C a copolymer C2 which contains - at least one structural unit according to formula (CI)

wherein R is a methyl group and X is methosulfate, - contains at least further structural unit according to formula (C-II)

wherein n is 1 methylene units - at least one further structural unit according to formula (C-II)

where n is 3 methylene units. Agent according to claim 21, characterized that the copolymer C2 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-I) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol%, and especially 40 mol .-% of structural units according to formula (C-II) with n = 1 and 40 to 60 mol%, preferably 45 to 55 mol%, and especially 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-II) with n = 3 contains. Composition according to one of claims 21 or 22, characterized in that the copolymer C2 has a molecular weight from 100 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 250 to 900 kDa, more preferred from 500 to 850 kDa and in particular from 650 to 710 kDa. Agent according to one of Claims 17 to 23, characterized in that the copolymer C comprises a copolymer C3 which contains - at least one structural unit of the formula (CI)

wherein R is a methyl group and X is methosulfate, - contains at least one further structural unit of the formula (B-II)

wherein n is 1 methylene units - at least one further structural unit according to formula (C-III)

- contains at least another structural unit according to formula (C-IV)

Agent according to claim 24, characterized that the copolymer C3 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol .-% and in particular 6 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-I) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol%, and especially 55 mol% of structural units of the formula (C-II) with n = 1 and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-III) and 20 to 40 mol%, preferably 25 to 35 mol% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (C-IV). Composition according to one of claims 24 or 25, characterized in that the copolymer C3 has a molecular weight from 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferred from 250 to 350 kDa and especially from 290 to 310 kDa. Composition according to one of claims 17 to 25, characterized in that the total amount of copolymers C, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-%, is. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 27, characterized in that it is a copolymer D of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate. Composition according to claim 28, characterized in that the copolymer D 10 to 80 mol%, preferably 20 to 70 mol .-%, particularly preferably 30 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 40 to 50 mol .-% methacrylic acid and 20 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 30 to 80 mol .-%, particularly preferably 40 to 70 mol .-% and in particular 50 to 60 mol .-% ethyl acrylate. Composition according to one of claims 28 or 29, characterized in that the copolymer D is a molecular weight from 100 to 800 kDa, preferably from 200 to 700 kDa, more preferred from 300 to 600 kDa and especially from 450 to 550 kDa. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 30, characterized in that it comprises at least one copolymer E, made up from - selected at least one monomer e1 from acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and - at least a monomer e2 selected from acrylamide and / or methacrylamide and - selected at least one monomer e3 from N-substituted acrylamides and / or methacrylamides contains. Agent according to claim 31, characterized that it contains as copolymer E a copolymer E1, which as monomer e1 comprises acrylic acid. Composition according to one of claims 31 or 32, characterized in that it is a copolymer E copolymer Contains E1, which comprises acrylamide as monomer e2. Composition according to one of claims 31 to 33, characterized in that it is a copolymer E a Copolymer E1 containing as monomer e3 acryloyldimethyltaurate includes. Composition according to one of claims 31 to 34, characterized in that the copolymer E1 has a molecular weight from 50 to 500 kDa, preferably from 100 to 450 kDa, more preferred from 150 to 400 kDa and especially from 200 to 300 kDa. Composition according to one of claims 31 to 35, characterized in that the total amount of copolymers E, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 3 wt .-%, is. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 36, characterized in that it comprises at least one copolymer F, selected from f1) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) and / or f2) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and or f3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and alkyldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts contains. Agent according to claim 37, characterized that it is a cationic polymer f1 copolymers of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride Contains (MAPTAC) with vinylpyrrolidone, the 40 to 95 mol .-%, preferably 42.5 to 90 mol%, more preferably 45 to 85 mol%, and especially Contain 50 to 80 mol .-% vinylpyrrolidone. Agent according to claim 42 or 43, characterized in that the copolymers f1 have molar masses of 10 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 25 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 50 to 800 kDa and in particular from 100 to 750 kDa. Agent according to one of claims 37 to 39, characterized in that it, based on the weight of ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (e) f1 contains. Agent according to one of claims 37 to 40, characterized in that it is used as cationic polymer f2 Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate containing 40 to 95 mol%, preferably 42.5 to 90 Mole%, more preferably 45 to 85 mole% and especially 50 to Containing 80 mol .-% vinylpyrrolidone. Composition according to one of claims 37 or 41, characterized in that the copolymers f2 molecular weights from 100 to 2500 kDa, preferably from 250 to 2000 kDa, further preferably from 500 to 1750 kDa and in particular from 800 to 1500 kDa, exhibit. Agent according to one of claims 37 to 42, characterized in that it, based on the weight of ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (e) f2 contains. Agent according to one of claims 37 to 43, characterized in that it is used as cationic polymer f3 Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts. Agent according to one of claims 37 to 44, characterized in that it is used as cationic polymer b3 Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and alkyldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium salts, which is 40 to 95 mol%, preferably 42.5 to 90 mol%, more preferably 45 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 50 to 80 mol .-% vinylpyrrolidone contain. Composition according to one of claims 37 or 45, characterized in that the copolymers f3 molecular weights from 10 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 25 to 900 kDa, more preferred from 50 to 800 kDa and in particular from 100 to 750 kDa. Agent according to one of claims 37 to 46, characterized in that it, based on the weight of ready-to-use agent, 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 3% by weight of copolymer (e) f3 contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 47, characterized in that the total polymer content of From 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 12.5% by weight, more preferably 4 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 8 wt .-% is. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 48, characterized in that it comprises at least one silicone of the formula Si-I (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-I), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10. Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 49, characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II) R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' _{2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a -R _'a (Si-II), wherein G is -H, phenyl, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ; A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; - b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m is preferably from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, - R 'is a monovalent radical selected from • -QN (R'') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R'') ₂ • -QN (R '') ₂ • -QN ⁺ (R '') ₃ A ^- • -QN ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^- • -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^- • - QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , where each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -, R '' for identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A is an anion r epresentiert, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 50, characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes. Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 51, characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 52, characterized in that it additionally care substance (s) - related on its weight - in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and especially 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, with preferred Maintenance substance (s) are selected from the group i. L-carnitine and / or its salts; ii. Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid; iii. the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; iv. Taurine and / or its salts; v. niacinamide; vi. ubiquinone vii. Ectoin; viii. Allantoin. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 53, characterized in that it is a styling gel, a pump hair spray, an aerosol hair spray, a pump hair foam or an aerosol hair foam is concerned. Method of temporary deformation keratinischer Fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 54 on the hair as a pump hair spray, Aerosol hair spray, pump hair foam, aerosol hair foam or styling gel is applied and optionally with the palms and / or the fingers are incorporated into the hair.