DE102006051391A1 - Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical composition, useful e.g. to treat aged skin and wrinkles, comprises e.g. lanolin, glycerin, urea, palmitoyl pentapeptide, vitamin-A and tocopherol derivatives, grape seed oil and coenzyme Q10 - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical composition (I) comprises lanolin, glycerin, urea, palmitoyl-pentapeptide, at least vitamin-A derivative, at least a tocopherol derivative, grape seed oil, coenzyme Q10, at least an isoflavonoid, L-proline, L-lysine, milk protein and adenosine triphosphate-disodium salt. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. The ability of (I) to reduce wrinkles was tested in human. The result showed that (I) reduced wrinkles on an average of 27-36%, after four weeks. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The The present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological Preparations and their use for the care and treatment of aged Skin.

With changed with age the skin of man considerably. The skin becomes thinner and flabbier and wrinkles form and wrinkles as well as age spots. Causes of these changes of the skin are u.a. a decreasing collagen and moisture content of the skin and skin damage due to free radical oxidation processes considered.

A Variety of products for care and treatment lessened, in particular aged skin is currently known. These usually contain Combinations of drugs that promote collagen synthesis, the Add moisture to the skin and / or to protect the skin from oxidative stress. Some of these However, drugs have proved to be irritating to the skin and are therefore For the treatment and care of sensitive or atopic eczema Skin not or only partially suitable.

The The object of the invention is thus to provide an improved active ingredient composition for a Consequences of skin aging counteracting preparation for care and / or Treatment of the skin with gentle active ingredients to find.

These Task is with cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to claim 1 fulfilled. The preparations according to the invention for the care and / or treatment of aged skin contain an active ingredient composition from lanolin, glycerol, urea, palmitoyl-pentapeptide, at least a vitamin A derivative, at least one tocopherol derivative, grapeseed oil, coenzyme Q1C, at least one isoflavonoid, L-proline, L-lysine, milk protein and adenosine triphosphate disodium salt.

The preparations according to the invention are characterized by a surprising high effectiveness against the symptoms of aging skin that are on a synergistic effect of individual components is based. In detail It has been found that the preparations of the invention with regular use distinct wrinkle reducing, moisturizing and skin elasticity enhancing Have effects and therefore the emergence of a tighter and thus younger lead to effective skin appearance. These preparations are particularly gentle to the skin and are also from persons with sensitive, dry and atopic dermatitis Tendon skin very well tolerated.

In detail, the preparation according to the invention contains the following components:
Lanolin (wool wax) is a mixture of liquid and solid wax esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and other minor constituents and is derived from the fat layer formed between sheep's skin and wool. Wool wax can absorb a multiple of its weight in water and thus. Tighten moisture in the skin. It is therefore widely used in cosmetic products. The wool wax containing, free wool wax alcohols also have emulsifying properties. Wool wax is especially kind to the skin and well tolerated. In addition, wool wax can take on the function of a foundation in preparations according to the invention. Preparations according to the invention preferably contain from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 12% by weight, of lanolin.

glycerin is used because of its hygroscopic effect to the Moisture of the skin, especially the hydration of the horny layer to regulate. Glycerin gives a pleasant, soft skin feeling and improves Furthermore the spreadability the preparation. Preparations according to the invention contain preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 2 to 7 wt .-% glycerol.

Urea, the diamide of carbonic acid, is a natural one occurring degradation product of proteins and lies with a weight fraction of about 1% in the horny layer of the human epidermis. by virtue of its hygroscopic property holds urea as natural Humectants return the moisture in the cornea. urea has as well Keratolytic, wound healing, bacteria inhibiting and itching-reducing effects. The skin becomes more elastic and supple after treatment with urea. Preparations according to the invention contain preferably 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 1 to 4% by weight of urea.

Palmitoyl-pentapeptide is a fatty acid condensate of a synthetic pentapeptide (palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine). Palmitoyl-pentapeptide stimulates the synthesis of collagens I and III as well as fibronectin, thus improving the structure of the tissue matrix. In addition, palmitoyl-pentapeptide stimulates the synthesis of collagen IV in the skin-epidermis junction, where vascularization occurs, and therefore participates in the regeneration process of the skin. The skin becomes thicker. This reduces both the depth and the number of wrinkles. It has been proven that palmitoyl-pentapeptide has no skin irritant effects. Palmitoyl pentapeptide is available commercially under the brand name Matrixyl ^®. Preparations according to the invention preferably contain from 0.5 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, of palmitoyl-pentapeptide.

Vitamin A derivatives, Retinyl palmitate, for example, are derivatives of vitamin A, the less irritating to the skin than vitamin A itself. These derivatives cause an increase in cell activity and the enzyme activity in the skin, which in turn has a positive effect on collagen synthesis impact. Vitamin A derivatives have an antioxidant effect against free radicals, in the body partly controlled but also arise in an uncontrolled manner, e.g. through tobacco smoke, Medicines, poisons, UV rays, X-rays, etc. Vitamin A derivatives support thus the regeneration of, for example, by the action of UV radiation damaged, prematurely aged skin and increase skin elasticity and the Skin thickness. Preparations according to the invention preferably contain retinyl palmitate, preferably in a weight proportion from 0.1 to 1%, more preferably from 0.2 to 0.7%.

tocopherol act as vitamin E. The most common and most effective natural Tocopherol is α-tocopherol. It is an ingredient of many vegetable oils, such as Soy, wheat germ, Corn germ or cottonseed oil. For one Use as vitamin E in cosmetics particularly suitable tocopherol derivatives For example, tocopheryl acetate and tocopheryl succinate are be split on the skin to vitamin E. Especially preferred is tocopheryl acetate. Vitamin E acts as a radical scavenger antioxidant, increases moisture retention capacity the horny layer, increased the enzyme activity in the skin and also has an anti-inflammatory effect. Tocopherol derivatives can at the same time the function of an antioxidant to increase the Shelf life of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation take over. The preparations according to the invention contain preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of at least one tocopherol derivative.

coenzyme Q10, also known as ubiquinone 50, is one of the coenzymes Q (ubiquinones), which form a group of fat-soluble benzoquinones, which at the electron transport in Mitochondrien and thus at the Cellular breathing are involved. Coenzyme Q10 also acts as a skin remedy cellular Protective mechanism against free radicals, which is effective by coenzyme Q10 be intercepted. Coenzyme Q10 thus has an antioxidant and energizing effect the energy production of the cells. The preparations according to the invention contain preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 1% by weight coenzyme Q10.

Isoflavoniode are phytoestrogens, the hormone-like Show effects. The most important natural isoflavonoids are Genistein and daidzein. Isoflavonoids promote collagen synthesis and cause an increase Skin thickness, moisture and elasticity. In cosmetic products become known Isoflavones from soya, wild yams, red clover and hops used. The preparations according to the invention preferably contain soy isoflavones in a weight fraction of preferably 0.1 to 1%, more preferably 0.2 to 0.5%.

Grapeseed oil is going out the seed of Vitis vinifera. In addition to linoleic, oily, palmitic, Stearic and other fatty acids it has a high content of vitamin E and also contains procyanidin, resveratrol, Polyphenols, e.g. Catechol and epikatechol as active substances. The flavone procyanidin (oligomeric proanthocyanidin) is the strongest known Antioxidant that trap free radicals and thus the destruction of Can prevent cell lipids. Preferably, cold-pressed grapeseed oil is used, because it is particularly well tolerated is. The preparations according to the invention contain preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of grapeseed oil.

The amino acid L-proline is in the human body et al For the formation of collagen needed. L-proline also works hygroscopic. The preparations according to the invention contain preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3 wt .-% L-proline.

The amino acid L-lysine is an essential amino acid that is also involved in the formation involved in collagen. L-lysine promotes In addition, the immune system and contributes thus to the defense against infection. The preparations according to the invention contain preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-% L-lysine.

Milk protein is extracted from pasteurized milk and obtained as a powder. Contains milk protein Among other things as cytokines active proteins that control the cell growth as messenger substances and thus control important functions of the skin, such as construction, maintenance and repair and the aging process. The addition of milk protein improves the firmness and elasticity of the skin, reduces skin roughness and results in an increase in skin thickness. Milk protein is preferably present in preparations according to the invention in a concentration of from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight.

adenosine triphosphate (ATP) plays as an energy supplier in all important metabolic processes an essential role. An addition of ATP sodium salt increases Skin moisture and skin smoothness are already very low Amounts. The preparations according to the invention contain preferably 0.001 to 0.3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.2% by weight of ATP sodium salt.

The preparations according to the invention can in any form suitable for application to the skin for the cosmetic and / or dermatological application, e.g. as ointment, cream, Gel, lotion and the like. The selection of a suitable base for the desired shape or diluent is in the area of ability of professionals in the field.

In preferred embodiments of the present invention the preparations according to the invention as a water-in-oil emulsion or as an oil-in-water emulsion available. Emulsion formulations allow easy application and a uniform distribution the preparation on the skin.

Especially as a basis for Emulsion formulations can the preparations according to the invention In addition to water one or more oil components as a continuous or dispersed phase. The oil component has preferably moisturizing Properties and gives a smooth, comfortable skin feel. For example are suitable as an oil component Silicone oils, Triglycerides, dialkyl ethers, natural oils, waxes, Hydrocarbons, phospholipids and the like as well as combinations from what experts know. Particularly suitable examples of silicone oils are cyclomethicone, dimethicone, trimethicone and their derivatives. A particularly suitable dialkyl ether is, for example, dicaprylyl ether.

In emulsion formulations, the formulations according to the invention expediently contain at least one emulsifier in order to stabilize the dispersed phase in the continuous phase. A suitable emulsifier for a cream formulation (oil-in-water emulsion), for example, cetearyl glucoside, which is commercially available as Emulgade PL 68/50 ^®.

to Avoidance of possible skin-irritating reactions, it is desirable that the preparations according to the invention preferably contain little other additives. However, it can, for example to obtain a prolonged Durability and stability or an elevated one Advantageous consumer acceptance, the composition of the invention other additives, e.g. Preservatives, antioxidants, Stabilizers, UV protectants, dyes, perfumes and the like admit. The selection of suitable additives is in the range of ability of professionals in the field.

When Preservatives are useful in the present invention, for example Ethylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben, EDTA or EDTA salts, Phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol and the same.

For the invention suitable antioxidants are for example tocopherols, ascorbic acid and their derivatives, e.g. Ascorbyl palmitate, citric acid and like.

For the present Stabilizers suitable in the invention are in particular cellulose derivatives, such as. Cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, available as Natrosol Plus 330 CS commercially available is.

One suitable UV protective agent is, for example, octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate), in the preparations according to the invention preferably in a proportion of 2 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 4 to 6 wt .-% may be present.

The Preparation of the compositions of the invention is done in a manner known to those skilled in the art Mixing the components using suitable mixing equipment.

The Invention is based on an embodiment explained further below, for better understanding is intended to serve, without limiting the invention in its generality.

Formulation Example

A skin cream having the following composition was prepared:

These Cream was during a period of four weeks to 25 female volunteers, 25 of them % Neurodermatitis in the absence of symptoms and 40% subjects tested with dry or sensitive skin. During the Test subjects applied the cream twice a day to the subjects the face up. After 1 hour, 1 day, 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks and 4 weeks, the skin roughness, the horny layer moisture and the skin elasticity measured.

The Skin roughness was measured using a PRIMOS 3D optical skin meter (Phase Shift Rapid In vivo Measurement Of Skin). The Results showed a wrinkle-reducing effect of the cream. To For four weeks, the measurements showed a reduction in wrinkle depth by an average of 27% and a maximum of 36%. Thus, the cream of the invention a very good, in some cases also excellent wrinkle reducing Effect.

The Measurement of horny layer moisture of the skin was done with a corneometer (Courage and Khazaka). The results showed an increase in skin hydration of on average 31% and a maximum of 48% after four weeks of use. The moisturizing Effect of the cream according to the invention can therefore be described as very good, in individual cases as excellent become.

The Measurement of elasticity and the state of tension of the skin was measured with a cutometer (Dermalab - Cortex Technology). The results showed an increase in skin elasticity of average 32 and a maximum of 57% after four weeks Application. Thus, the cream of the invention has a very good, im Occasionally also excellent elasticity-increasing effect on the treated skin.

at Neurodermatitis and subjects with dry or sensitive Skin passed the application tests without any problems, in particular it while of the application period no adverse skin reactions or Intolerance reactions.

The antioxidant capacity The cream was evaluated by a method for the determination of photosensitized Chemiluminescence measured. On a relative scale resulted compared to pure α-tocopherol (10,0) and pure cosmetic base cream (1,1) for the present Cream a reading of 8.6, which is an excellent antioxidant Indicates effect.

insofar has the cream of the invention not only as highly effective for the care and treatment of aging skin but also as particularly skin-friendly exposed and is therefore also for especially sensitive skin types.

Claims (7)

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing lanolin, glycerol, urea, palmitoyl-pentapeptide, at least a vitamin A derivative, at least one tocopherol derivative, grapeseed oil, coenzyme Q10, at least one isoflavonoid, L-proline, L-lysine, milk protein and adenosine triphosphate disodium salt. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations according to claim 1 containing From 3 to 20% by weight of lanolin, 1 up to 10% by weight of glycerol, 0.5 to 5% by weight of urea, 0.5 up to 5% by weight palmitoyl pentapeptide, 0.1 to 1 wt .-% at least a vitamin A derivative, 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one Tocopherol derivative. 0.1 to 5% by weight of grapeseed oil, 0.1 up to 2% by weight of coenzyme Q10, 0.1 to 1 wt .-% of at least one isoflavonoid 0.1 to 5 wt.% L-proline, 0.1 to 3% by weight L-lysine, 0.1 to 1 wt .-% milk protein and 0.001 to 0.3 Wt% adenosine triphosphate disodium salt. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the vitamin A derivative is retinyl palmitate is. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the tocopherol derivative Tocopheryl acetate is. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the isoflavonoids Soy isoflavones are. Use of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical Preparation according to one of the preceding claims for care and / or treatment aged skin. Use of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical Preparation according to one of the claims 1 to 5 for the treatment of skin folds.