DE102006041906A1 - Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations which are distinguished by having an effective content of Hoodia extracts or of the steroid glycosides obtainable therefrom are proposed.

Description

Field of the invention

The Invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to new Preparations for topical use containing Hoodia extracts.

State of the art

Nice Since time immemorial the desire of the transience to defy and even in old age, the plump and flawless skin to own the youth. Even Cleopatra used to take the bath in donkey milk and today we know that certain milk proteins are indeed the elasticity of the connective tissue. Nevertheless, the cosmetics are constantly in search of scientific Explanations and detailed understanding for the Aging process of the skin, to then with this knowledge always to develop more effective and efficient agents. At the interface of cosmetic chemistry, pharmacy and biology become researchers not uncommon in natural Find active ingredients, be it that they make bonds in the natural medicine of foreign peoples or at the exam new extracts from nature's treasure encounter surprising effects.

A the diverse Reasons for Skin aging is the inadequate moisture regulation in the stratum corneum; the loss of water takes place there Dehydration, first to skin roughness, then wrinkling. One of the substances that in these skin layers for the regulation of the water balance is responsible, is the hyaluronic acid. In Many skin care products therefore find this active ingredient, though in vanishingly small and therefore often hardly effective quantities, because the extraction is very expensive and therefore the product extremely is expensive. For years, therefore, there has been a desire hyaluronic acid more accessible and therefore replace less expensive substitutes. An example of this is Chitosan, a cationic biopolymer derived from crab shells let, but not least due to fluctuating quality so far not enforced on the market.

The Object of the present invention has thus been new Preparations for the personal hygiene, especially for the skin care available that affect the moisture balance in the stratum corneum, Moisturize and make the skin look fuller and younger to let. Preferably, the preparations should have further beneficial physiological Have properties, which protect the skin from aging.

Description of the invention

object the invention are cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, which are characterized in that they as component (a) a effective content of Hoodia extracts or the available from it Steroid glycosides, especially the substance P57 and / or its homologs, Contain analogues and isomers.

Surprisingly It was found that Hoodia extracts show the property that Moisture balance of the skin, especially in the stratum corneum to regulate and so skin roughness, but also counteracts aging and wrinkling to act. The application of the preparations according to the invention leads to the skin is fuller and younger appears and protects these over a limited period of time too fast dehydration. These Effect can be achieved by combining with physiologically active fatty acids, specifically CLA, or sterols or their esters or other special plant extracts further improved and also to additional beneficial effects added become.

Hoodia extracts

Hoodia, specifically Hoodia gordonii, is a cactus plant native to South Africa that has long been known to the indigenous people as a means to combat hunger. It is reported that in earlier times Bushmen on their hunting expeditions were practically out of food for several weeks only by chewing Hoodia roots. In recent years it has been found that the amazing properties of this plant are related to its high content of specific active steroid glycosides. In 2001/2002, it was possible for the first time to isolate and characterize one of these species; it has since been referred to in the literature as substance P57:

Little is known about hoodia and hoodia extracts from the patent literature. In the international patent application WO 98/046243 A1 (CSIR), however, pharmaceutical compositions based on extracts of plants of the genus Trichocaulon or Hoodia claimed to have an appetite-suppressing effect.

• (b1) physiologisch aktive Fettsäuren und/oder deren Ester,
• (b2) Sterole und/oder deren Ester,
• (b3) Hyaluronsäure,
• (b4) Chitosan, sowie
• (b5) physiologisch aktive Pflanzenextrakte.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the preparations contain additional active ingredients from the group of moisturizing agents (also referred to as "moisturizers"), which may be one or more representatives of the following substances or substance classes:

• (b1) physiologically active fatty acids and / or their esters,
• (b2) sterols and / or their esters,
• (b3) hyaluronic acid,
• (b4) Chitosan, as well
• (b5) physiologically active plant extracts.

• • der Aktivierung der Lipolyse, was zu einer Entschlackung führt,
• • der Stimulierung des Immunsystems zur Stärkung der körpereigenen Abwehrkräfte der Hautzellen.
• • dem Schutz vor UV-A und UV-B-Strahlung, sowie
• • einer regenerativen und wachstumsstimulierenden Wirkung.

The blends with said additives result in further improved moisture control combined with additional positive physiological effects, such as

• The activation of lipolysis, which leads to a purification,
• • the stimulation of the immune system to strengthen the body's defenses of the skin cells.
• • the protection against UV-A and UV-B radiation, as well
• • a regenerative and growth-stimulating effect.

Physiologically active fatty acids

One common criterion of physiologically active fatty acids, which as component (b1) is that they have a sufficiently long lipid residue and a sufficient number of double bonds feature. For this Purpose are therefore suitable in particular those fatty acids Have 18 to 24 carbon atoms and 2 to 5 double bonds.

In a first embodiment of the invention conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), their esters - especially those with lower aliphatic alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms - or their glycerides, especially the synthetic triglycerides, are used for this purpose. These are known substances which are usually prepared by base-catalyzed isomerization of safflower oil or corresponding alkyl esters and subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis. It has proven to be advantageous if the CLA or CLA derivatives meet a specific specification, according to which the acyl radical at least 30 wt .-% t10, c12 isomers, at least 30 wt .-% c9, t11 isomers and in Total less than 1 wt .-% 8,10, 11,13- and t, t-isomers. Corresponding products are, for example, under the name Tonalin ^® CLA-80 (Cognis) in trade.

In a second alternative embodiment, as component (a) also so-called omega-3 fatty acids in question, which contain typically 18 to 26 and especially 20 to 22 carbon atoms and thereby have at least 4, up to 6 double bonds. Such substances are also obtainable by conventional methods of organic chemistry, for example by transesterification of fish oil, urea precipitation of the erhal tenen alkyl ester and subsequent extraction with unpolyren solvents, as described in the German patent DE 3926658 C2 (Norsk Hydro). In this way, fatty acid mixtures rich in omega-3 (all-Z) -5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentanoic acid (EPA) C 20: 5 and (all-Z) -4,7,10, 13,16,19-docosahexanoic acid (DHA) C 22: 6. Such products are for example under the name Omacor ^® (Pronova) in the trade.

Sterols and sterol esters

sterols, which represent the optional component (b2) and occasionally also sterols are steroid represented by a single hydroxyl group in C3-position. Furthermore can Sterols, usually Have 27 to 30 carbon atoms, also have a double bond, the preferably in the 5/6 position located. The hydrogenation of this double bond - also called hardening - leads to special Sterols called stanols. The following illustration shows the structure of the best known representative from the group of Sterols, the cholesterol that belongs to the group of zoosterols.

by virtue of their superior physiological properties represent plant sterols that are so called phytosterols, such as ergosterol, stigmasterol and in particular Sitosterol and its hydrogenation product sitostanol the preferred Sterol types. Alternatively, can instead of the sterols or stanols also their esters with saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids can be used, wherein the acyl radicals then 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 6 double bonds may have. Typical examples are the esters of β-sitosterol or β-sitostanol with caproic acid, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, Capric acid, Lauric acid, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic acid, palmitoleic, stearic acid, Isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic and their technical mixtures, e.g. in the pressure split of natural fats and oils, in the reduction of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids attack. However, the esters of the two are very particularly preferred the aforementioned sterols with conjugated linoleic acid (CLA).

plant extracts

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention the oral preparations as optional component (b5) further plant extracts contain that over have advantageous physiological properties. Typically these are selected from the group formed by Ginkgo biloba, Camellia sinensis, Oleacea europensis, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Vaccinium myrtillus, Trifolium Pratense, Litchi sinensis, Vitis vinifera, Brassica oleracea, Punica granatum, Petroselinium crispum, Centella asiatica, Passiflora incar nata, Medicago sativa, Valeriana officinalis, Castanea sativa, Salix alba as well as Hapagophytum procumbens. The following is a brief summary of the composition and the essential active ingredients in the extracts.

• ginkgo biloba

• Isorhamnetin (R¹ = H), Kaempferol (R¹ = OH), Ginkgolid A (R¹ = OMe)

The active ingredients of the extracts obtained from the leaves of the Ginkgo tree (Ginkgo biloba) are flavonoid glycosides which include (iso) querciting glycosides, kaempferol, kaempferol-3 rhamnoside, isorhamnetin, luteoline glycosides, sitosterol glycosides, and especially hexacyclic terpene lactones, the so-called Ginkgolide A, B, C, J, M and bilobalides included.

• Isorhamnetin (R ¹ = H), Kaempferol (R ¹ = OH), Ginkgolide A (R ¹ = OMe)

• Camellia sinensis

Komponenten R1 R2 R3 R4 (–)-Epicatechin H H (–) Epigallocatechin H OH (–) Epicatechin gallate Galloyl H (–) Epigallocatechin gallate Galloyl OH Theflavin H H Theaflavin monogallate A Galloyl H Theaflavin monogallat B H Galloyl Theaflavin digallate Galloyl Galloyl The leaves of green tea contain a variety of substances, such as polysaccharides, volatile oils, vitamins, minerals, purines and in addition to alkaloids, such as caffeine, especially polyphenols, which are usually catechins and flavonoids and also as Be called "tea tannins".

components R1 R2 R3 R4 (-) - epicatechin H H (-) epigallocatechin H OH (-) Epicatechin gallate galloyl H (-) Epigallocatechin gallate galloyl OH Theflavin H H Theaflavin monogallate A galloyl H Theaflavin monogallate B H galloyl Theaflavin digallate galloyl galloyl

• Oleacea Europensis

Of the Main component of the leaves of the olive tree (Oleacea europensis) is the antioxidant oleuropein, that is also the main source for Represents hydroxytyrosol.

• Glycyrrhiza glabra

Main component the extract of the sweet root Glycyrrhiza glabra is glycyrrhetic acid.

• Yaccinium myrtillus

Üblicherweise, weisen die Extrakte 20 bis 25 Gew.-% Anthocyanoside, 5 bis 10 Gew.-% Tannine sowie geringe Mengen verschiedener Alkaloide, wie z.B. Myrtin und Epimyrtin, Phenolsäuren sowie Glycoside von Quercitrin, Isoquercitrin und Hyperosid auf.Extracts of the common blueberry (Yaccinium myrtillus) contain a mixture of at least 15 different anthocyanosides, such as the following:

Usually, the extracts have 20 to 25 wt .-% anthocyanosides, 5 to 10 wt .-% tannins and small amounts of various alkaloids, such as myrtin and epimyrtin, phenolic acids and glycosides of quercitrin, isoquercitrin and hyperoside.

• Trifolium pratense

Isoflavonglucoside R₁ R₂ R₃ R₄ Daizidin H H Glucose H Genistin H H Glucose OH Ononin H CH₃ Glucose H Sissostrin H CH₃ Glucose OH The main constituents of the extracts of red clover (Trifolium pratense) are isoflavones, such as daidzein, genestein, formononentin and biochanin A and their glucosides such as ononine or sissostrin:

isoflavone R ₁ R ₂ R ₃ R ₄ Daizidin H H glucose H genistin H H glucose OH ononin H CH ₃ glucose H Sissostrin H CH ₃ glucose OH

• Litchi sinensis

extracts, those extracted from the shells of Litchi fruit (Litchi sinensis) have high levels of flavone derivatives, e.g. 2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyrans, Flavans, flavan-3-ols (catechins, catechol oligomers), flavan-3,4-diols (Leucoanthocyanides), flavones, flavonols and flavonones. The main ingredient is, however, made up of condensed tannins, so-called Procyanodols (OPC). These substances contain 2 to 8 monomers of the Catechins or a catechin type, e.g. Procyanidin, proanthocyanin, Procyanidols, oligoprocyanidine, leucoanthocyanidin, leucodelphinin, Leucocyanin and anthocyanogen. OPC, preferably proanthocyanidin A2 (OPC A2) behave like vitamin P, especially with regard to the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases.

• Vitis vinifera

The Main Ingredients Extracts from leaves, roots and in particular Cups of grape (Vitis vinifera) are polyphenols from above described OPC type.

• Brassica oleracea

The main components of the extracts of cauliflower (Brassica oleracea) are amino acids, esp in particular methionine and cysteine as well as the glucosinolates, such as glucoraphanin.

• Punica granatum

In The extracts of pomegranate (Punica granatum) are found next to Sugars and citric acid in particular Delphinidin-1,2-glycosides and their aglycones.

• Petroselinium crispum

Main component of the fat oil Parsley (Petroselinium crispum) is the petroselinic acid. The Extracts, however, show high levels of Apiol (1-allyl-2,5-dimethoxy-3,4- (methylenedioxy) benzene,), as well as Apiin, Myristicin, Pinen and Selinen.

• Centella asiatica

Main components The extracts of Centella asiatica are highly condensed naphthenic acids, especially asiatic acid, madecassic acid and their glycosides.

• Passiflora incarnata

extracts Passion fruit (Passiflora incarnata) are rich in flavones of the type of apigenin and luteolin and their C-glycosides.

Of Furthermore, they contain 2 '' - B-D-glucosides, Schaftoside and Isoschaftoside, Isovitexin, Isoorientin, Vicenin-2, Incenin-2, daponanine and trace element, namely calcium, phosphorus and iron.

• Medicago sativa

Extracts of alfalfa (Medicago sativa) are rich in isoflavones, such as daidzein, genestein, formononetin, biochanin A and tricine:

• Valeriana ofcinalis

The Main constituents of extracts of Valeriana ofcinalis are valeric acid, valerianone as well as boron-ester.

• Castanea sativa

• R = Tiglicsäure oder Angelicasäure

Horse chestnut extracts (Castanea sativa) contain mainly saponins and escin, which is the mixture of two glycosides whose aglycones are derived from proteoescenin, while the sugars are either gluconic acid or two molecules of D-glucose. The two glycosides differ in the nature of the acyl groups in the C22 position.

• R = tiglic acid or angelic acid

During α-Escin a represents amorphous powder, which melts at 225 to 227 ° C. and slightly water-soluble is β-Escin (also called florfenecyl) in the form of dandruff, practically insoluble in water, but slightly soluble are in alcohol.

• Salix alba

The main constituents of Salix alba extracts are phenol glycosides and, in particular, salicylates such as salicin, salicortin and tremulacin:

• Harpagophytum procumbens

The Main components of Extract of Devil's Claw (Harpagophytum procumbens) are iridoid glucosides, harpagosides, harpagids and procumbides.

Of Further, one finds stachylose and glycosylated phytosterols (e.g., β-sitosterol), Flavonoids (e.g., kaempferol, luteolin), phenolic acids, and glycosidic phenylpropanoic acid esters (e.g., verbacosides, isoactosides).

extraction

The preparation of the stehorid glycoside-containing Hoodia extracts can be carried out in a manner known per se, ie for example by aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic extraction of the plants or plant parts or of the leaves or fruits. Suitable are all conventional extraction methods such as maceration, remaereration, digestion, agitation, vortex extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacuation (extraction under reduced pressure), diaclation or solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux. For the industrial use advantageous is the percolation method. As a starting material, fresh plants or plant parts can be used, but usually is based on dried plants and / or plant parts, which can be mechanically comminuted prior to extraction. All the comminution methods known to those skilled in the art are suitable here, for example freeze-milling. As solvents for carrying out the extractions, it is possible to use organic solvents, water (preferably hot water at a temperature of above 80 ° C. and in particular above 95 ° C.) or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low molecular weight alcohols with more or less high water contents become. Particularly preferred are the extraction with methanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols and ethyl acetate and mixtures thereof and their aqueous mixtures. The extraction is generally carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 30 to 90 ° C, in particular at 60 to 80 ° C. In a preferred embodiment, the extraction is carried out under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid the oxidation of the active ingredients of the extract. This is particularly important in extractions at temperatures above 40 ° C is important. The extraction times are set by the skilled person depending on the starting material, the extraction method, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material and others. After extraction, the resulting crude extracts may optionally be subjected to further conventional steps such as purification, concentration and / or decolorization. If desired, the extracts so prepared may be subjected to, for example, selective separation of individual undesired ingredients. The extraction can be done to any degree of extraction, but is usually done to exhaustion. Typical yields (= dry matter amount of the extract based on the amount of raw material used) in the extraction of dried leaves are in the range from 3 to 15, in particular 6 to 10 wt .-%. The present invention encompasses the finding that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be selected by the person skilled in the art according to the desired field of use. These extracts, which generally have active substance contents (= solids contents) in the range of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, can be used as such, but it is also possible, the solvent completely by drying, in particular by spray or freeze drying to remove. The extracts can also serve as starting materials for the recovery of the above-mentioned pure active ingredients, as long as they can not be synthesized more easily and inexpensively. Accordingly, the active ingredient content in the extracts may be 5 to 100, preferably 50 to 95 wt .-%. The extracts themselves may be present as aqueous and / or dissolved in organic solvents preparations and as spray- or freeze-dried, anhydrous solids. Suitable organic solvents in this context include, for example, the aliphatic alcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms (eg ethanol), ketones (eg acetone), halogenated hydrocarbons (eg chloroform or methylene chloride), lower esters or polyols (eg glycerol or glycols). Specifically, reference is made to the manufacturing process, which in the already mentioned WO 98/046243 A1 and hereby by direct reference to the teaching of the present Pa tentanmeldung is included.

Preferably the components (a) and (b) are in the weight ratio 99: 1 used up to 1:99, with special synergistic effects in the range from 90:10 to 40:60 and especially 85:15 to 50:50 are.

encapsulation

In a particular embodiment In the present invention, the oral preparations are encapsulated in Shape - for example in the form of usual Gelatin macrocapsules - preferably but used in microencapsulated form. A typical gelatin capsule can for the daily oral intake, for example, 150 mg hoodia extract and optionally 3 g CLA included.

Under The term "microcapsule" will be understood by those skilled in the art spherical Aggregates with a diameter in the range of about 0.0001 to about 5 mm, containing at least one solid or liquid core, which is enclosed by at least one continuous shell. More accurate said to be coated with film-forming polymers finely dispersed liquid or solid phases in which the polymers are produced Emulsification and coacervation or interfacial polymerization on the wrapping material knock down. By another method are melted Waxes taken in a matrix ("microsponge"), called microparticles additionally wrapped with film-forming polymers could be. The microscopic capsules, also called nanocapsules to dry like powder. In addition to mononuclear microcapsules are also polynuclear aggregates, also called microspheres known, the two or more cores distributed in the continuous shell material. Mononuclear or polynuclear microcapsules can also of an additional union second, third, etc. sheath be enclosed. The case can be made of natural, semisynthetic or synthetic materials. Of course, shell materials For example, gum arabic, agar-agar, agarose, maltodextrins, alginic acid or their salts, e.g. Sodium or calcium alginate, fats and fatty acids, cetyl alcohol, Collagen, chitosan, lecithin, gelatin, albumin, shellac, polysaccharides, like strength or dextran, polypeptides, protein hydrolysates, sucrose and waxes. Semisynthetic shell materials include chemically modified celluloses, in particular Cellulose esters and ethers, e.g. Cellulose acetate, ethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and starch derivatives, especially starch ethers and -ester. Synthetic wrapping materials are, for example, polymers such as polyacrylates, polyamides, polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone.

Examples for microcapsules of the prior art are the following commercial products (in parenthesis the shell material is indicated in each case): Hallcrest Microcapsules (gelatin, gum arabic), Coletica thalaspheres (marine collagen), Lipotec Millicapseln (alginic acid, agar-agar), Induchem Unispheres (lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose); Unicerin C30 (lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Kobo Glycospheres (modified starch, fatty acid esters, phospholipids), softspheres (modified agar-agar) and cow's probiol nanospheres (phospholipids) Primaspheres and Primasponges (chitosan, alginates) and Primasys (Phospholipids).

• (a1) aus Gelbildnern, kationischen Polymeren und Wirkstoffen eine Matrix zubereitet,
• (a2) gegebenenfalls die Matrix in einer Ölphase dispergiert,
• (a3) die dispergierte Matrix mit wässrigen Lösungen anionischer Polymere behandelt und gegebenenfalls dabei die Ölphase entfernt.

oder

• (b1) aus Gelbildnern, anionischen Polymeren und Wirkstoffen eine Matrix zubereitet,
• (b2) gegebenenfalls die Matrix in einer Ölphase dispergiert,
• (b3) die dispergierte Matrix mit wässrigen Kationpolymerlösungen behandelt und gegebenenfalls dabei die Ölphase entfernt;

oder

• (c1) aus Gelbildnern und Wirkstoffen eine Matrix zubereitet,
• (c2) die Matrix mit einer Kationpolymerlösung versetzt und
• (c3) die Mischung auf einen pH-Wert einstellt der oberhalb des pK_S-Wertes des Kationpolymers liegt;

oder

• (d1) wässrige Wirkstoffzubereitungen mit Ölkörpern in Gegenwart von Emulgatoren zu O/W-Emulsionen verarbeitet,
• (d2) die so erhaltenen Emulsionen mit wässrigen Lösungen anionischer Polymere behandelt,
• (d3) die so erhaltene Matrix mit wässrigen Kationpolymerlösungen in Kontakt bringt und
• (d4) die so erhaltenen Verkapselungsprodukte von der wässrigen Phase abtrennt;

oder
den Wirkstoff abwechselnd mit Schichten aus unterschiedlich geladenen Polyelektrolyten ein hüllt (layer-by-layer-Technologie).Chitosan microcapsules and processes for their preparation are the subject of prior patent applications by the Applicant [ WO 01/01926 . WO 01/01927 . WO 01/01928 . WO 01/01929 ]. Microcapsules with average diameters in the range of 0.0001 to 5, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 and in particular 0.005 to 0.1 mm, consisting of an enveloping membrane and a matrix containing the active ingredients can be obtained, for example, by

• (a1) preparing a matrix from gelling agents, cationic polymers and active substances,
• (a2) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase,
• (a3) treating the dispersed matrix with aqueous solutions of anionic polymers and optionally removing the oil phase.

or

• (b1) preparing a matrix from gelling agents, anionic polymers and active substances,
• (b2) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase,
• (b3) treating the dispersed matrix with aqueous cationic polymer solutions, optionally removing the oil phase;

or

• (c1) preparing a matrix from gelling agents and active substances,
• (c2) adding a cationic polymer solution to the matrix and
• (c3) the mixture to a pH adjusts the -value is the cationic polymer above the pK _S;

or

• (d1) processed aqueous preparations of active substances with oil bodies in the presence of emulsifiers to O / W emulsions,
• (d2) treating the emulsions thus obtained with aqueous solutions of anionic polymers,
• (d3) contacting the resulting matrix with aqueous cationic polymer solutions, and
• (d4) separating the resulting encapsulated products from the aqueous phase;

or
the active substance alternately with layers of differently charged polyelectrolyes one wraps (layer-by-layer technology).

• gelling agent

in the According to the invention, the gelling agents are preferably those substances taking into account the characteristic in aqueous solution at temperatures above 40 ° C To form gels. Typical examples are heteropolysaccharides and proteins. As thermogelling heteropolysaccharides are preferably Agaroses in the form of the red algae to be won Agar agars also together with up to 30 wt .-% non-gel-forming Agaropectins may be present. The main constituent of the agaroses are linear polysaccharides from D-galactose and 3,6-anhydro-L-galactose which are alternately linked β-1,3- and β-1,4-glycosidic. The heteropolysaccharides preferably have a molecular weight in the Range from 110,000 to 160,000 and are both colorless and tasteless. Alternatives include pectins, xanthans (also xanthan gum) and their mixtures in question. Furthermore, such types are preferred the still in 1 wt .-% aqueous solution Form gels that do not melt below 80 ° C and are already above 40 ° C consolidate again. From the group of thermogeling proteins may be mentioned by way of example the various types of gelatin.

• Chitosan

Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, they are partially deacetylated chitin of different molecular weight containing the following - idealized - monomer unit:

in the Contrary to most hydrocolloids, which are biological pH values are negatively charged, put chitosans under these conditions cationic biopolymers. The positively charged chitosans can with oppositely charged surfaces interact and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and personal care products and pharmaceutical preparations used. For the production of Chitosans one goes from Chitin, preferably the shell remnants of Crustaceans made out as cheap raw materials in large quantities to disposal stand. The chitin is thereby in a procedure, the first of Hackmann et al. has been described, usually first by Addition of bases deproteinated, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by addition of strong bases, the molecular weights over a broad spectrum can be distributed. Preferably, such types are used as the average Molecular weight of 10,000 to 500,000 or 800,000 to 1,200,000 Dalton and / or have a Brookfield viscosity (1 wt .-% strength in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of Have 80 to 88% and an ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%. Because of better water solubility The chitosans are usually in the form of their salts, preferably used as glycolates.

• anionic polymers

The anionic polymers have the task of forming membranes with the chitosans. Salts of alginic acid are preferably suitable for this purpose. Alginic acid is a mixture of carboxyl-containing polysaccharides with the following idealized monomer unit:

The average molecular weight of the alginic acids or alginates in the range of 150,000 to 250,000. Both are salts of alginic acid their complete as well as their partial neutralization products, in particular the alkali metal salts and below this preferably the sodium alginate ("Algin") and the ammonium and alkaline earth salts. particularly preferred are mixed alginates, such as e.g. Sodium / magnesium or sodium / calcium alginates. In an alternative embodiment the invention come for However, anionic chitosan derivatives, e.g. carboxylation and especially succinylation products in question. Alternatively come also poly (meth) acrylates with average molecular weights in the range of 5,000 to 50,000 daltons as well as the various carboxymethylcelluloses in question. Instead of anionic polymers can be used for the formation of the envelope membrane also anionic surfactants or low molecular weight inorganic salts, such as pyrophosphates are used.

• manufacturing process microcapsules

to Preparation of the microcapsules is usually a 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 5 wt .-% aqueous solution of the gelling agent, preferably the agar agar ago and heated them under reflux. At the boiling point, preferably at 80 to 100 ° C, a second aqueous solution is added, which the cationic polymer, preferably the chitosan in amounts of 0.1 to 2, preferably 0.25 to 0.5 wt .-% and the active ingredients in amounts of 0.1 to 25 and in particular 0.25 to 10 wt .-%; these Mixture is called a matrix. The loading of the microcapsules with active ingredients can therefore also 0.1 to 25 wt .-% based on the capsule weight amount. If desired, can at this time to viscosity adjustment also water-insoluble Ingredients, for example, inorganic pigments are added, These are usually in the form of aqueous or aqueous / alcoholic Adds dispersions. For emulsification or dispersion of the active ingredients it may also be of benefit to the matrix emulsifiers and / or solubilizers should admit. After preparing the matrix of gelling agent, cationic polymer and agents, the matrix may optionally be submerged in an oil phase strong shear to be dispersed very finely in the subsequent Encapsulation as possible to produce small particles. It has proved to be particularly advantageous proved to heat the matrix to temperatures in the range of 40 to 60 ° C while the oil phase at 10 to 20 ° C cools. In the last, now again obligatory step then takes place actual encapsulation, i. the formation of the envelope membrane by contacting the cationic polymer in the matrix with the anionic polymers. For this purpose, it is recommended that if necessary in the oil phase dispersed matrix at a temperature in the range of 40 to 100, preferably 50 to 60 ° C with an aqueous, about 1 to 50 and preferably 10 to 15 wt .-% aqueous solution to treat the anionic polymer while - if necessary - simultaneously or subsequently the oil phase to remove. The resulting aqueous preparations have usually a microcapsule content in the range of 1 to 10 wt .-% on. In some cases It may be advantageous if the solution of the polymers more Ingredients, for example emulsifiers or preservatives contains. After filtration, microcapsules are obtained which have an average of Diameter in the range of preferably about 0.01 to 1 mm. It is best to sift the capsules to one as possible uniform size distribution sure. The microcapsules thus obtained can in production-related frames have any shape, they however, are preferably approximately spherical. Alternatively, the anionic polymers can also be used to prepare the matrix use and encapsulation with the cationic polymers, especially perform the chitosans.

alternative The encapsulation can also be done using only cationic polymers taking advantage of their property, at pH values to coagulate above the pKs value.

In a second alternative method, an O / W emulsion is initially prepared for producing the microcapsules according to the invention, which contains an effective amount of emulsifier in addition to the oil body, water and the active ingredients. To prepare the matrix, this preparation is mixed with vigorous stirring with an appropriate amount of an aqueous anionic polymer solution. The membrane formation takes place by adding the chitosan solution. The entire process preferably takes place in the weakly acidic range at pH = 3 to 4. If necessary, the pH is adjusted by adding mineral acid. After the mem As a result, the pH is raised to 5 to 6, for example by adding triethanolamine or another base. This results in an increase in the viscosity, by adding further thickening agents, such as polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar, alginates and Tylose, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, high molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates, polyacrylamides and the like can still be supported. Finally, the microcapsules are separated from the aqueous phase, for example by decantation, filtration or centrifugation.

In a third alternative method, the formation of the microcapsules is carried out around a preferably solid, for example, crystalline core by coating it in layers with oppositely charged polyelectrolytes. In this connection, see the European patent EP 1064088 B1 (Max Planck Society).

In a preferred embodiment The present invention relates to such capsules or microcapsules used, whose shell material at least proportionately, but preferably completely or predominantly made of chitosan. In this way, namely the advantageous moisture-regulating properties of chitosan together with its ability combine to form membranes.

Industrial Applicability

• (a) 0,1 bis 10, vorzugsweise 1 bis 5 Gew.-% Hoodia-Extrakt und
• (b) 0 bis 10, vorzugsweise 1 bis 5 Gew.-% Feuchtigkeitsmittel

mit der Maßgabe enthalten, dass sich die Mengenangaben mit weiteren typischen kosmetischen Inhaltsstoffen und/oder Wasser zu 100 Gew.-% ergänzen.The use of Hoodia extracts or the active steroid glycosides contained therein causes an improved regulation of moisture in the stratum corneum, which results in the skin thus treated appearing more plump and youthful. Accordingly, another object of the present invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations which

• (a) 0.1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5 wt .-% Hoodia extract and
• (B) 0 to 10, preferably 1 to 5 wt .-% moisturizer

with the proviso that the quantities are supplemented with other typical cosmetic ingredients and / or water to 100 wt .-%.

One Finally, the last object of the present invention consists in the use of the extracts for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, preferably skin care and sunscreen products, in which the extracts are typically present in amounts of from 0.1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5 wt .-% may be included.

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical agents

The cosmetic according to the invention and / or pharmaceutical agents, other typical auxiliary agents may be used. and additives, such as mild surfactants, oils, emulsifiers, Pearlescent waxes, bodying agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, Stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, Phospholipids, UV sun protection factors, humectants, biogenic Active ingredients, antioxidants, swelling agents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, Preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

• surfactants

Surfactants which may be present are anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the proportion of which in the compositions is usually from about 1 to 70, preferably from 5 to 50, and in particular from 10 to 30,% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable based wheat products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers, optionally partially oxidized Alk (en) yloligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (in particular wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-friendly surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefinsulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyloligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

• oil body

Examples of oil bodies are Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ -carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate , Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, Behenyl behenate, behenyl leucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ -alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ - Fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonates (Ce tiol ^® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (such as Finsolv ^® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized Fettsäureestern with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, Siliciummethicontypen etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for example squalane, Squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes into consideration.

• emulsifiers

• • Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe sowie Alkylamine mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest;
• • Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alk(en)ylrest und deren ethoxylierte Analoga;
• • Anlagerungsprodukte von 1 bis 15 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• • Anlagerungsprodukte von 15 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• • Partialester von Glycerin und/oder Sorbitan mit ungesättigten, linearen oder gesättigten, verzweigten Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und/oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren mit 3 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie deren Addukte mit 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid;
• • Partialester von Polyglycerin (durchschnittlicher Eigenkondensationsgrad 2 bis 8), Polyethylenglycol (Molekulargewicht 400 bis 5000), Trimethylolpropan, Pentaerythrit, Zuckeralkoholen (z.B. Sorbit), Alkylglucosiden (z.B. Methylglucosid, Butylglucosid, Laurylglucosid) sowie Polyglucosiden (z.B. Cellulose) mit gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und/oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren mit 3 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie deren Addukte mit 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid;
• • Mischester aus Pentaerythrit, Fettsäuren, Citronensäure und Fettalkohol und/oder Mischester von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, Methylglucose und Polyolen, vorzugsweise Glycerin oder Polyglycerin.
• • Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphate sowie Mono-, Di- und/oder Tri-PEG-alkylphosphate und deren Salze;
• • Wollwachsalkohole;
• • Polysiloxan-Polyalkyl-Polyether-Copolymere bzw. entsprechende Derivate;
• • Block-Copolymere z.B. Polyethylenglycol-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate;
• • Polymeremulgatoren, z.B. Pemulen-Typen (TR-1, TR-2) von Goodrich oder Cosmedia^® SP von Cognis;
• • Polyalkylenglycole sowie
• • Glycerincarbonat

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• • alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;
• Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• Partial esters of polyglycerol (average intrinsic degree of condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkylglucosides (eg methylglucoside, butylglucoside, laurylglucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose) with saturated th and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.
• Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• • wool wax alcohols;
• Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• Block copolymers, for example polyethylene glycol-30 dipolyhydroxystearates;
• • polymeric emulsifiers such as Pemulen grades (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich or Cosmedia SP ^® Cognis;
• • Polyalkylene glycols as well
• • Glycerine carbonate

alkoxylates

The addition products of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide to fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologues whose mean degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. C _12/18 fatty acid _mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

• alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. Their production takes place in particular by reaction of glucose or oligosaccharides with primary Alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With respect to the glycoside residue, that both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidic is bound to the fatty alcohol, as well as oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, one for such technical products usual Homolog distribution is based.

Partial glycerides

typical examples for suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citron diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which are subordinated to the manufacturing process still low May contain amounts of triglyceride. Also suitable Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to the said partial glycerides.

• sorbitan ester

When Sorbitan esters include sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, Sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, Sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, Sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan adipate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, Sorbitan squiricinoleate, sorbitan dianicinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, Sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, Sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesqui tartrate, Sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesqui citrate, Sorbitan citrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, Sorbitan dandruff, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Also suitable are addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to said sorbitan esters.

• polyglycerol ester

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan ^® GI 34), poly glyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan ^® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care ^® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina ^®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl ether (Chimexane ^® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor ^® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl polyricinoleates (Admul ^® WOL 1403) polyglyceryl dimerates Isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like, which are optionally reacted with from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

• Anionic emulsifiers

typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as azelaic or Sebacic acid.

• Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyldimethyl-ammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3 -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. Particularly preferred is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Also suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C _8/18 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acylsarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

• fats and waxes

typical examples for Fats are glycerides, i. solid or liquid vegetable or animal Products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, as waxes come u.a. natural Waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto wax, Cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, Montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, Ceresin, ozokerite (groundwax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanesterwachse, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as e.g. Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. Next The fats also contain fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids in question. Under the name lecithin understands the skilled person those glycerophospholipids, made up of fatty acids, Glycerol, phosphoric acid and form choline by esterification. Lecithins are in the professional world therefore often as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the Called cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and Represent derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. To understand that opposite usually phospholipids are mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally regarded as fats. Besides that, too Sphingosines or sphingolipids in question.

• Pearlescent waxes

Suitable pearlescing waxes are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as fatty alcohol fatty alcohols, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates having a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

• Bodying agent and thickening agents

As consistency factors are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids into consideration. Preference is given to a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicic acids), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (eg Carbopol ^® and Pemulen grades from Goodrich; Synthalens ^® from Sigma; Keltrol grades from Kelco; Sepigel grades from Seppic; Salcare grades from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. As a particularly effective bentonites, such as Bentone ^® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox) have been found, which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate. Also suitable are surfactants, such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and also electrolytes, such as common salt and ammonium chloride.

• superfatting agent

As superfatting agent can Substances such as lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, Monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides be used, the latter also as foam stabilizers serve.

• stabilizers

When Stabilizers can Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

• polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are for example cationic cellulose derivatives, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose obtainable under the name Polymer JR 400 ^® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, for example Luviquat ^® (BASF) , condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® ^® L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, for example amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine ^® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat ^® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystalline v Condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bis-dialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as ^Jaguar® CBS, ^Jaguar® C-17, ^Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, for example Mirapol ^® A-15, Mirapol ^® AD-1, Mirapol ^® AZ-1 from Miranol.

When anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers For example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, Vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, Octylacrylamide / acrylate Methylmeth / tert.Butylaminoethylmethacrylat / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylacetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

• silicone compounds

suitable Silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic ones Silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified Silicone compounds that are both liquid at room temperature also resinous may be present. Also suitable are simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.

• UV sun protection factors

• • 3-Benzylidencampher bzw. 3-Benzylidennorcampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher beschrieben;
• • 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• • Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxy-zimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• • Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-iso-propylbenzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• • Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• • Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• • Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyl Triazon oder Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb^® HEB);
• • Propan-1,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;
• • Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decan-Derivate.

Under UV sun protection factors are, for example, at room temperature, liquid or crystalline organic substances present (sunscreen) to understand, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg heat again. Usually, the UV sunscreen factors are present in amounts of 0.1 to 5 and preferably 0.2 to 1 wt .-%. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• • 3-Benzylidencampher or 3-Benzylidennorcampher and its derivatives, eg 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) described camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxy cinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-iso-propylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• • triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®);
• Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• • Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives.

• • 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• • 1H-Benzimidazole-4,6-Disulfonic Acid, 2,2'-(1,4-Phenylene)Bis-, Disodium Salt (Neo Heliopan^® AP)
• • Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• • Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• • 1H-Benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid, 2,2 '- (1,4-phenylene) bis-, disodium salt (Neo Heliopan AP ^®)
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol ^® 1789), 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybezoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul A Plus ^®), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoyl methane, for example 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol ^® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (Octocrylene), in combination with ester cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. Such combinations are advantageously combined with water-soluble filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble photoprotective pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. As salts silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating from the spherical shape shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, for example Titandioxid T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000, Eusolex ^® T, Eusolex ^® T-ECO, Eusolex ^® TS, Eusolex ^® T-Aqua, Eusolex ^® T-45D (all Merck), Uvinul TiO ₂ (BASF). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or Si methicones. In sunscreens, so-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used. Preferably micronized zinc oxide, such as Z-COTE ^® or Z-COTE HP1 ^® is used.

• Humectants

Humectants serve to further optimize the sensory properties of the Composition and moisture regulation of the skin. simultaneously the low-temperature stability of the preparations according to the invention, especially in the case of emulsions, increased. The humectants are usually in from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and in particular 5 to 10 wt .-%.

Suitable according to the invention are u.a. Amino acids, pyrrolidone, lactic acid and their salts, lactitol, urea and urea derivatives, uric acid, glucosamine, Creatinine, cleavage products of collagen, chitosan or chitosan salts / derivatives, and in particular polyols and polyol derivatives (eg glycerol, diglycerol, Triglycerin, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, erythritol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18, PEG-20), sugars and sugar derivatives (ia fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sorbitol, Sorbitylsilandiol, sucrose, trehalose, xylose, xylitol, glucuronic acid and their salts), ethoxylated sorbitol (sorbeth-6, sorbeth-20, sorbeth-30, Sorbeth-40), honey and hardened Honey, hardened starch and mixtures of hardened Wheat protein and PEG-20 acetate copolymer. According to the invention preferred Suitable humectants are glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol and butylene glycol.

• Biogenic Active ingredients and antioxidants

Under biogenic agents are for example tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, Tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (Deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, Allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, Pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as. Prunus extract, Bambaranussextrakt and vitamin complexes too understand.

Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain, which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and its glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, Distearylthiodipropionat, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and Sulfoximinverbindungen (eg Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low vertr Equivalent dosages (for example pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate ), Tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and benzylic resin, rutinic acid and their derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid , Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its D derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, frans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

Hydrotropes

• • Glycerin;
• • Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycol, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Hexylenglycol sowie Polyethylenglycole mit einem durchschnittlichen Molekulargewicht von 100 bis 1.000 Dalton;
• • technische Oligoglyceringemische mit einem Eigenkondensationsgrad von 1,5 bis 10 wie etwa technische Diglyceringemische mit einem Diglyceringehalt von 40 bis 50 Gew.-%;
• • Methyolverbindungen, wie insbesondere Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit;
• • Niedrigalkylglucoside, insbesondere solche mit 1 bis 8 Kohlenstoffen im Alkylrest, wie beispielsweise Methyl- und Butylglucosid;
• • Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Sorbit oder Mannit,
• • Zucker mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose;
• • Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin;
• • Dialkoholamine, wie Diethanolamin oder 2-Amino-1,3-propandiol.

Hydrotropes such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols contemplated herein preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• • glycerin;
• Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• Technical Oligoglyceringemische with an intrinsic degree of condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical Diglyceringemische with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50 wt .-%;
• Methyolverbindungen, in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those having 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as, for example, methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• • sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• • amino sugars, such as glucamine;
• Dialcohols, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

• preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver ^complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the further classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.

• perfume oils and flavors

When Perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (Lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (Geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), Fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (Macis, Angelics, Celery, Cardamom, Costus, Iris, Calmus), Woods (Pine, Sandal, Guay, Cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, Fir, pine, pines), resins and balms (Galbanum, Elemi, Benzoin, Myrrh, Olibanum, Opoponax). Furthermore come animal Raw materials in question, such as civet and castoreum. typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds the type of esters are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, Phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Count to the Ethern for example, benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear ones Alkanals of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the Ketones e.g. the ionone, α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, belong to the hydrocarbons mainly the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of various are preferred Fragrances are used, which together create an appealing fragrance produce. Also essential oils lesser Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as Perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, Clove oil, Melissa oil Mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably be bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, Lilial, Lyral, Citronellol, Phenylethylalcohol, α-Hexylcinnamaldehyde, Geraniol, Benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, β-damascone, geranium Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldeine gamma, Phenylacetic acid, Geranyl acetate, Benzyl acetate, Rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, used.

When Flavors include, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, aniseed oil, star aniseed oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like in question.

• dyes

Dyes which may be used are the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as described, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" of the Dye Commission of the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are compiled. Examples are Kochillerot A (CI 16255), Patent Blue V (CI42051), Indigotin (CI73015), Chlorophyllin (CI75810), Quinoline Yellow (CI47005), Titanium Dioxide (CI77891), Indanthrene Blue RS (CI 69800) and Krapplack (CI58000). Luminol may also be contained as a luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.

Of the Total content of auxiliaries and additives may be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40 wt .-% - based on the means - amount. The preparation of the agent can be done by conventional cold or hot processes; preferably working according to the phase inversion temperature method.

Examples

example 1

In a 500 ml three-necked flask with stirrer and reflux condenser, 3 g of agar-agar were dissolved in 200 ml of water in the boiling heat. The mixture was then stirred for about 30 minutes with vigorous stirring, first with a solution of 10 g of glycerol, 90 ml of water and then with a preparation of 2.5 g of sodium alginate in the form of a 10% strength by weight aqueous solution, 1 g of conjugated linoleic acid (Tonalin CLA-80 ^®), 1 g of dried Hoodia gordonii extract, 0.5 g of Phenonip ^® and 0.5 g of polysorbate-20 (Tween ^® 20, ICI) was added in 64 g water. The resulting matrix was filtered, heated to 60 ° C and added dropwise to a 1% by weight solution of chitosan glycolate in water. To obtain microcapsules of the same diameter, the preparations were then sieved.

Example 2

In a 500 ml three-necked flask with stirrer and reflux condenser, 3 g of agar-agar were dissolved in 200 ml of water in the boiling heat. The mixture was then stirred for about 30 minutes with vigorous stirring first with a solution of 10 g glycerol 90 ml water and then with a preparation of 2.5 g sodium alginate in the form of a 10 wt .-% aqueous solution, 1 g sterol esters ( Vegapure WDP ^®), 1 g of dried Hoodia gordonii extract, 0.5 g of Phenonip ^® and 0.5 g of polysorbate-20 (Tween ^® 20, ICI) was added in 64 g water. The resulting matrix was filtered, heated to 60 ° C and added dropwise to a 1% by weight solution of chitosan glycolate in water. To obtain microcapsules of the same diameter, the preparations were then sieved.

Example 3

In a 500 ml three-necked flask with stirrer and reflux condenser, 3 g of agar-agar were dissolved in 200 ml of water in the boiling heat. The mixture was then stirred for about 30 minutes, with vigorous stirring, first with a solution of 10 g of glycerol, 90 ml of water and then with a preparation of 2.5 g of sodium alginate in the form of a 10% strength by weight aqueous solution, 1 g of CLA reagent. triglyceride (Tonalin CLA ^®-TG), 1 g of dried Hoodia gordonii extract, 0.5 g Ginkgo biloba extract, 0.5 g of Phenonip ^® and 0.5 g of polysorbate-20 (Tween ^® 20, ICI) was added in 64 g water , The resulting matrix was filtered, heated to 60 ° C and added dropwise to a 1% by weight solution of chitosan glycolate in water. To obtain microcapsules of the same diameter, the preparations were then sieved.

Example 4

In a 500 ml three-necked flask with stirrer and reflux condenser, 3 g of agar-agar were dissolved in 200 ml of water in the boiling heat. Subsequently, the mixture was stirred for about 30 minutes with vigorous stirring, first with a solution of 10 g of glycerol 90 ml of water and then with a preparation of 2.5 g of sodium alginate in the form of a 10% strength by weight aqueous solution, 1 g of dried Hoodia gordonii extract, 0.5 g of hyaluronic acid, 0.5 g of Phenonip ^® and 0.5 g of polysorbate-20 (Tween ^® 20, ICI) was added in 64 g water. The resulting matrix was filtered, heated to 60 ° C and added dropwise to a 1% by weight solution of chitosan glycolate in water. To obtain microcapsules of the same diameter, the preparations were then sieved.

Example 5

Moisture regulation of the skin

• (i) ohne Behandlung;
• (ii) Behandlung mit Placebo;
• (iii) Behandlung mit einer Zubereitung bestehend aus einem Feuchtigkeitsgel (Hydrogel LS, Cognis France S.A.S) mit einem Gehalt von 1,125 Gew.-% Hoodia-Extrakt.
• (iv) Behandlung mit einer Zubereitung bestehend aus einem Feuchtigkeitsgel enthaltend 3 Gew.-% einer Mischung enthaltend Wasser, Glycerin, Trehalose, und Hoodia Extrakt (Anteil Hoodia 15 Gew.-%)

The horny layer (the stratum corneum) is found in the epidermis of human skin. The stratum corneum is a dielectric medium of low electrical conductivity. The water content leads to increased dielectric conductivity and the determination of the dielectric conductivity of the stratum corneum can thus serve as a measure of the degree of humidity of human skin. The increase of the dielectric conductivity of the stratum corneum reflects an increased degree of humidity of the human skin. Moisture control studies were performed on normal skin samples as used in plastic surgery. For this purpose, the stratum corneum of these skin samples was stored and standardized in chambers with defined relative humidity (44%, saturated solution of potassium carbonate). Each sample was then tested as follows:

• (i) without treatment;
• (ii) treatment with placebo;
• (iii) Treatment with a formulation consisting of a moisture gel (Hydrogel LS, Cognis France SAS) containing 1.125% by weight Hoodia extract.
• (iv) Treatment with a preparation consisting of a moisture gel containing 3% by weight of a mixture containing water, glycerol, trehalose, and Hoodia extract (proportion Hoodia 15% by weight)

As a placebo, the moisture gel was used without the addition of Hoodia extract. The moisture-regulating activity of the preparation described above was determined in percent increase in conductivity compared to the placebo treatment. From the results, a dose-dependent moisture-regulating activity can be recognized. The results are summarized in Table 1: TABLE 1 Moisture Control Effect Determined by Measurement of Dielectric Conductivity (in μS); Average of 18 examinations (in brackets the standard deviation is found) kind of treatment 0 30 min 1 h 2h 4h 6h 24 hours control 21.6 (4.4) 21.3 (2.7) 21.0 (3.8) 21.4 (4.4) 20.4 (3.3) 21.1 (3.9) 20.5 (3.0) placebo 22.5 (1.8) 51.0 (2.4) 39.5 (2.7) 30.7 (2,1) 30.5 (2.4) 29.0 (3.0) 31.1 (1.7) Treatment according to iii) 22.7 (1.6) 85.5 (9.9) 49.8 (2.8) 39.0 (3.0) 35.3 (2.5) 31.9 (2.4) 31.8 (1.8) Treatment according to iv) 22.9 (2.8) 104.8 (6.5) 76.5 (4.2) 65.7 (4.6) 55.0 (4.3) 51.2 (4.4) 48.8 (4.7)

• (1-5) Reinigungsschaum, (6) Softcreme, (7, 8) Feuchtigkeitsemulsion, (9, 10) Nachtcreme

Tabelle 2 Beispiele für kosmetische Zubereitungen (Wasser, Konservierungsmittel ad 100 Gew.-%) – Forts. Zusammensetzung (INCI) 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Dehymuls^® PGPH Polyg lyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4,0 3,0 - 5,0 - - - - - - Lameform^® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 2,0 1,0 - - - - - - - - Emulgade^® PL 68/50 Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol - - - - 4,0 - - - 3,0 - Eumulgin^®B2 Ceteareth-20 - - - - - - 2,0 - - Tegocare^® PS Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate - - 3,0 - - - 4,0 - - - Eumulgin VL 75 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Glycerin - - - - - 3,5 - - 2,5 - Bees Wax 3,0 2,0 5,0 2,0 - - - - - - Cutina^® GMS Glyceryl Stearate - - - - - 2,0 4,0 - - 4,0 Lanette^® O Cetearyl Alcohol - - 2,0 - 2,0 4,0 2,0 4,0 4,0 1,0 Antaron^® V 216 PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer - - - - - 3,0 - - - 2,0 Myritol^® 818 Cocoglycerides 5,0 - 10,0 - 8,0 6,0 6,0 - 5,0 5,0 Finsolv^® TN C12/15 Alkyl Benzoate - 6,0 - 2,0 - - 3,0 - - 2,0 Cetiol^® J 600 Oleyl Erucate 7,0 4,0 3,0 5,0 4,0 3,0 3,0 - 5,0 4,0 Cetiol^® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 3,0 - 6,0 8,0 6,0 5,0 4,0 3,0 4,0 6,0 Mineral Oil - 4,0 - 4,0 - 2,0 - 1,0 - - Cetiol^® PGL Hexadecanol (and) Hexyldecyl Laurate - 7,0 3,0 7,0 4,0 - - - 1,0 - Bisabolol 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 Hoodia-Extrakt 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 Hydagen^® CMF Chitosan 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 Copherol^® F 1300 Tocopherol/Tocopheyl Acetate 0,5 1,0 1,0 2,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 2,0 0,5 2,0 Neo Heliopan^® Hydro Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate 3,0 - - 3,0 - - 2,0 - 2,0 - Neo Heliopan^® 303 Octocrylene - 5,0 - - - 4,0 5,0 - - 10,0 Neo Heliopan^® BB Benzophenone-3 1,5 - - 2,0 1,5 - - - 2,0 - Neo Heliopan^® E 1000 Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 5,0 - 4,0 - 2,0 2,0 4,0 10,0 - - Neo Heliopan^® AV Octyl Methoxycinnamate 4,0 - 4,0 3,0 2,0 3,0 4,0 - 10,0 2,0 Uvinul^® T 150 Octyl Triazone 2,0 4,0 3,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 4,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 Zinc Oxide - 6,0 6,0 - 4,0 - - - - 5,0 Titanium Dioxide - - - - - - - 5,0 - - Glycerin (86 Gew.-%ig) 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0

• (11) W/O-Sonnenschutzcreme, (12-14) W/O-Sonnenschutzlotion, (15, 18, 20) O/W-Sonnenschutzlotion (16, 17, 19) O/W-Sonnenschutzcreme

In the following Table 2 a number of formulation examples are given. Table 2 Examples of cosmetic preparations (water, preservatives ad 100% by weight) Composition (INCI) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8th 9 10 Texapon.RTM ^® NSO Sodium Laureth Sulfate - 30.0 30.0 - 25.0 - - - - - Plantacare® ^® 818 Coco glucoside - 10.0 - - 20.0 - - - - - Plantacare® ^® PS 10 Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Coco glucoside 22.0 - 5.0 22.0 - - - - - - Dehyton ^® PK 45 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 15.0 10.0 15.0 15.0 20.0 - - - - - Emulgade® ^® SE glyceryl Sterate (and) Ceteareth 12/20 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate - - - - - 5.0 5.0 4.0 - - Eumulgin ^® B1 Ceteareth-12 - - - - - - - 1.0 - - Lame form ^® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Isostearate - - - - - - - - 4.0 - Dehymuls® ^® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate - - - - - - - - - 4.0 Monomuls 90-O ^® 18 Glyceryl Oleate - - - - - - - - 2.0 - Cetiol ^® HE PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 2.0 - - 2.0 5.0 - - - - 2.0 Cetiol ^® OE Dicaprylyl Ether - - - - - - - - 5.0 6.0 Cetiol ^® PGL hexyldecanol (and) Hexyldecyl Laurate - - - - - - - 3.0 10.0 9.0 Cetiol ^® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate - - - - - 3.0 3.0 - - - Cetiol ^® V Decyl Oleate - - - - - 3.0 3.0 - - - Myritol ^® 318 Coco caprylate caprate - - - - - - - 3.0 5.0 5.0 Bees Wax - - - - - - - - 7.0 5.0 Nutrilan® ^® elastin E20 Hydrolyzed Elastin - - - - - 2.0 - - - - Nutrilan® ^® I-50 Hydrolyzed Collagen - - - - 2.0 - 2.0 - - - Gluadin® ^® AGP Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - - 0.5 - - Gluadin® ^® WK Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 5.0 - - - 0.5 0.5 Euperlan ^® PK 3000 AM Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5.0 - - 5.0 - - - - - - Arlypon ^® F Laureth-2 - - - - - - - - - - Hoodia extract 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Hydagen® ^® CMF chitosan 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Magnesium Sulfate Hepta Hydrate - - - - - - - - 1.0 1.0 Glycerin (86% by weight) - - - - - 3.0 3.0 5.0 5.0 3.0

• (1-5) cleansing foam, (6) soft cream, (7, 8) moisturizing emulsion, (9, 10) night cream

Table 2 Examples of cosmetic preparations (water, preservatives ad 100% by weight) - Forts. Composition (INCI) 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Dehymuls® ^® PGPH POLYG lyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.0 3.0 - 5.0 - - - - - - Lame form ^® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.0 1.0 - - - - - - - - Emulgade ^® PL 68/50 Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol - - - - 4.0 - - - 3.0 - Eumulgin B2 Ceteareth-20 ^® - - - - - - 2.0 - - Tegocare ^® PS Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate - - 3.0 - - - 4.0 - - - Eumulgin VL 75 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Glycerin - - - - - 3.5 - - 2.5 - Bees Wax 3.0 2.0 5.0 2.0 - - - - - - Cutina ^® GMS glyceryl stearate - - - - - 2.0 4.0 - - 4.0 Lanette ^® O Cetearyl Alcohol - - 2.0 - 2.0 4.0 2.0 4.0 4.0 1.0 Antaron V ^® 216 PVP / Hexadecene Copolymer - - - - - 3.0 - - - 2.0 Myritol ^® 818 Cocoglycerides 5.0 - 10.0 - 8.0 6.0 6.0 - 5.0 5.0 Finsolv TN ^® C12 / 15 Alkyl Benzoate - 6.0 - 2.0 - - 3.0 - - 2.0 Cetiol ^® J 600 oleyl erucate 7.0 4.0 3.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 - 5.0 4.0 Cetiol ^® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 3.0 - 6.0 8.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 4.0 6.0 Mineral oil - 4.0 - 4.0 - 2.0 - 1.0 - - Cetiol ^® PGL hexadecanol (and) Hexyldecyl Laurate - 7.0 3.0 7.0 4.0 - - - 1.0 - bisabolol 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Hoodia extract 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Hydagen® ^® CMF chitosan 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Copherol® ^® F 1300 tocopherol / Tocopheyl Acetate 0.5 1.0 1.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 2.0 0.5 2.0 Neo Heliopan ^® Hydro Sodium Phenylbenzimidazolesulphonic sulfonates 3.0 - - 3.0 - - 2.0 - 2.0 - Neo Heliopan ^® 303 Octocrylene - 5.0 - - - 4.0 5.0 - - 10.0 Neo Heliopan ^® BB benzophenone-3 1.5 - - 2.0 1.5 - - - 2.0 - Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000 Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 5.0 - 4.0 - 2.0 2.0 4.0 10.0 - - Neo Heliopan ^® AV octyl methoxycinnamate 4.0 - 4.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 - 10.0 2.0 Uvinul ^® T 150 Octyl Triazone 2.0 4.0 3.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Zinc oxides - 6.0 6.0 - 4.0 - - - - 5.0 Titanium dioxides - - - - - - - 5.0 - - Glycerin (86% by weight) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

• (11) W / O sunscreen cream, (12-14) W / O sunscreen lotion, (15, 18, 20) O / W sunscreen lotion (16, 17, 19) O / W sunscreen cream

Claims (10)

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, characterized in that they have as component (a) an effective content of Hoodia extracts or the steroid glycosides obtainable therefrom. Preparations according to Claim 1, characterized that they contain substance P57 and / or the associated homologues, analogues and Containing isomers. Preparations according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized characterized in that they further contain moisturizing agents (component b) from the group formed by (b1) physiological active fatty acids and / or their esters, (b2) sterols and / or their esters, (B3) hyaluronic acid, (B4) Chitosan, as well (b5) physiologically active plant extracts. Preparations according to Claim 3, characterized that as component (b5) they contain extracts of other plants, the selected are from the group formed by Ginkgo biloba, Camellia sinensis, Oleacea europensis, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Vaccinium myrtillus, Trifolium pratense, Litchi sinensis, Vitis vinifera, Brassica oleracea, Punica granatum, Petroselinium crispum, Centella asiatica, Passiflora incarnata, Medicago sativa, Valeriana offcinalis, Castanea sativa, Salix alba and Hapagophytum procumbens and their mixtures. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that (a) 0.1 to 10% by weight Hoodia extract and (b) 0 to 10% by weight of moisturizer included with the proviso that the quantities with other typical cosmetic Ingredients and / or water to 100 wt .-% complete. Preparations according to Claim 5, characterized that the other typical cosmetic ingredients are selected from the group formed by surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, Pearlescent waxes, bodying agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, Stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, Lecithins, phospholipids, UV sun protection factors, humectants, biogenic Active ingredients, antioxidants, swelling agents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, Preservatives, perfume oils dyes and the same. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they are present in encapsulated form. Preparations according to Claim 7, characterized the capsule material consists at least partly of chitosan. Use of Hoodia extracts for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations. Use according to claim 9, characterized that the preparations are skincare products or sunscreens is.