CZ34193U1 - Cosmetic product for protecting the skin from the negative effects of polluted air - Google Patents

Description

Cosmetic product for protecting the skin from the negative effects of polluted air

Field of technology

The present application relates to a cosmetic composition for the protection of the skin against the negative effects of air pollution (so-called anti-pollution effect), containing hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan and at least one other main active substance selected from the group consisting of cross-linked hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl glucan, glucomannan, schizophyllan and proteasome activator. Combinations of cosmetic active ingredients: sodium hyaluronate, hydrolysed sodium hyaluronate, cross-linked sodium hyaluronan, sodium carboxymethyl glucan, glucomannan, schizophyllan, and / or Pentapeptide-60-s-Methanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 in the form of cosmetics such as creams, creams or serums provides protection of the skin from the harmful effects of polluted air.

Prior art

The level of air pollution is constantly increasing and people are regularly exposed to harmful substances that have a negative effect not only on their overall health, but also on the skin (Rembiesa et al. 2018).

The main sources of environmental pollution can be divided into natural origins (eg forest fires, volcanic eruptions, pollen grains) and man-made (eg industry, fossil fuel combustion, household combustion plants, car emissions, cigarette smoke) (Puri et al 2017). All of these sources produce primary pollutants, including particulate matter, gases, volatile organic compounds, heavy metals and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) (Portugal-Cohen et al. 2017), from which secondary pollutants such as ozone are formed upon interaction with UV radiation and heat. peroxyacetyl nitrates (Krutman et al. 2014, Drakari et al. 2014, Lee et al. 2005).

Skin damage with these substances can be caused in several ways. Some pollutants are able to induce increased amounts of reactive oxygen species (ROS), while others activate the arylhydrocarbon receptor (AhR) (Drakari et al. 2014, Rembiesa et al. 2018). Both pathways trigger a cascade of events that disrupt the homeostasis of the skin and subsequently damage it. In most cases, however, these two pathways are combined (Morita et al. 2009).

The accumulation of ROS molecules may be due to their increased production or disruption of the skin's antioxidant system, and thus their reduced elimination. Many of these molecules interact with proteins, lipids and DNA and cause them to oxidize. At the same time, ROS molecules stimulate the production of proinflammatory interleukins, such as IL-6, IL-8, thereby stimulating the development of an inflammatory response in the skin (Drakari et al. 2014). AhR molecules are intracellular receptors found in the skin, intestines and other tissues that respond to chemicals. PAHs, mainly in polluted air, which are often bound to solid particles, act through AhR (Esser et al. 2013). Activation of AhR leads primarily to disruption of the immune response, inflammatory inflammation, and overproduction of matrix metalloproteinases (Rembiesa et al. 2018). Like ROS molecules, AhR promotes the induction of oxidative stress and the production of proinflammatory cytokines, suggesting a combination of both signaling pathways (Portugal-Cohen et al. 2017).

All these undesirable changes lead to disruption of the skin barrier function, reduction of skin hydration, formation of pigment spots, rash, acne and premature aging. The development of various skin diseases and skin cancers is no exception (Portugal-Cohen et al. 2017).

Hyaluronic acid (INCI Hyaluronic Acid or Sodium Hyaluronate, HA) is a substance that occurs naturally in the human body. It is a polymer composed of repeating units formed

- 1 CZ 34193 U1 glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. Due to the pi.4-linkage, a linear chain is formed that acts as a backbone for other macromolecules as a basis for the formation of other glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). They differ from other GAGs by the absence of sulfate groups and the lack of covalently bound peptides in their structure (Pure 2009, Stem 2003). Its molecular weight (MW) is up to 10 ⁷ Da. However, depending on the type of tissue, the length of the chain and MW vary (Sudha 2014).

HA occurs naturally in all connective tissues, where it forms an essential component of the extracellular matrix. The highest amount of hyaluronan (7 to 8 g), more than 50% of the total amount of HA in the body, is found in the skin tissue, in the epidermis (> 0.1 mg / g wet tissue) and in the dermis (> 0.5 mg / g wet tissues) (Papakonstantinou et al. 2012, Sudha 2014).

Today, HA is used for a wide range of applications, especially in the pharmaceutical, medical, veterinary and cosmetic industries (Sudha 2014). For medical and cosmetic purposes, it was previously isolated from rooster combs; today, this natural substance is isolated primarily from the cell wall of bacteria such as Streptococcus zooepidemicus (Shiedlin et al. 2004).

Its wide application in biomedicine is mainly due to its excellent physicochemical properties, as well as biodegradability and biocompatibility (Sudha 2014).

Its use in cosmetics is very widespread, especially to reduce wrinkles and hydrate the skin (Sudha 2014). As a result of the natural decrease in HA production in old age, the skin gradually weakens and wrinkles form (Papakonstantinou et al. 2012).

The effect of HA depends mainly on its molecular weight (MW). Low molecular weight (LMW) HA has been shown to penetrate deeper into the deeper layers of the skin, thereby reducing wrinkles and increasing skin hydration by mechanisms other than high molecular weight (HMW) HA, which is unable to penetrate deeper layers (Haeusler 2015). HMW HA forms a film on the surface of the skin, hydrates the stratum comeum and improves the skin barrier. In contrast, LMW HA not only actively promotes elastin and collagen production through better penetration into the deeper layers of the skin, thereby promoting tissue elasticity, but also promotes and maintains hydration of the epidermis (Damodarasamy et al. 2014, Essendoubi et al. 2015, Haeusler 2015). In addition, it increases the expression of genes involved in keratinocyte differentiation and the formation of tight junctions. It is the expression of these genes that decreases with age and the influence of UV radiation, and therefore the use of LMW HA contributes to the improvement of the parameters of aging and UV damaged skin (Essendoubi et al. 2015).

Hydrolyzed HA (INCI Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate) consists of oligosaccharides HA, which are formed by hydrolysis of high molecular weight HA. This substance has the ability to induce the biosynthesis of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, thus helping to combat aging, and in addition has an anti-inflammatory effect (Verrecchia et al. 2004).

Cross-linked HA forms hydrogels in water, which are often used in the cosmetics industry as dermal fillers, but have recently found their use for topical application. Cross-linked HA forms a wrinkle-closing film on the skin's surface, similar to HA, but stays there longer due to its increased stability. Furthermore, in the presence of water, it forms a hydrogel, which absorbs a large amount of water and thus hydrates the skin for a long time. In addition to water, various types of other active substances can be absorbed into the hydrogel, which are then gradually released into the skin and thus have a more effective effect (Larsen 2016, Dolečková 2018). The production of the oxidized form of HA as the main intermediate step in the production of one of the forms of crosslinked HA - Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3 (INCI) is disclosed in WO 2011069475.

Carboxymethyl-glucan (INCI Sodium Carboxymethyl BetaGlucan; CMG) is a water-soluble polysaccharide modified from insoluble β- (1,3) -glucan by carboxylation (Babincová et al. 2002). It belongs to the group of beta-glucans, which are natural substances composed of glucose units commonly found in cereals, fungi and some microorganisms, from which they are also

-2 CZ 34193 U1 commonly obtained. Due to its solubility, this biologically active substance is used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The main reason for using CMG is its immunomodulatory activity (Babincová et al. 2002, Jaehrig et al. 2008, Tsiapali et al. 2001). Its anti-aging effect, such as wrinkle reduction and skin whitening, has also been demonstrated (Kanlayavattanakulm et al. 2008).

Glucomannan (INCI Glucomannan) is a natural polysaccharide found in the cell walls of many plants, bacteria and fungi. This substance has antimutagenic and anticarcinogenic properties. (Vlčková et al. 2004, Miadoková et al. 2006).

Schizophyllan is an extracellular polysaccharide isolated from the cell wall of the fungus Schizophyllum commune. It is considered a multipurpose substance useful in many areas, including the pharmaceutical industry (Zhang et al. 2013). Schizophyllan acts as a biological modifier and non-specifically stimulates the immune system (Steinbuchel et al 2002).

The most important function of the synthetically produced Pentapeptide-60-s-Methanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 (Recelline) is the ability to activate the proteasome, resulting in increased recycling of oxidatively damaged proteins in the skin, which contribute to skin aging. In addition, this oligopeptide promotes collagen synthesis and aids in DNA repair (Dolečková et al. 2015).

Currently, there are several patents focusing on the composition of cosmetics that protect the skin from air pollution and contain some of the above cosmetically active ingredients, most often HA. These include, for example, CN patent 106580793A, which describes a process for the preparation and composition of cosmetic preparations containing, inter alia, 0.01% to 0.05% HA. JP 2017186276A discloses a cosmetic composition containing, among other ingredients, HA of various MWs as an active ingredient contributing to protection against air pollution. U.S. Pat. No. 20180,344,626 A1 describes a composition with a protective function against polluted air comprising, in addition to plant extracts, also HA. In all cases, the use of HA is rather a supplement to the composition.

The essence of the technical solution

As air pollution contributes to the development of more or less serious skin diseases and premature skin aging, it is necessary to protect the skin. Due to the variability of pollutants and different skin types, it is very difficult to develop a universal product that would effectively protect the skin. The general strategy for new cosmetics, so-called anti-pollution cosmetics, is to remove harmful substances from the skin, regenerate and protect the skin (Mistry et al. 2017). To effectively protect the skin from air pollution, it is advantageous to use raw materials that have antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory effect, improve the skin barrier, have a healing effect, form a film on the surface of the skin or activate the proteasome. The combination of these cosmetic raw materials creates advantageous cosmetic preparations with an effective anti-pollution effect, which protects the skin on several levels and by various mechanisms.

The technical solution relates to cosmetic preparations protecting the skin from the negative effects of air pollution, which contain at least two, more preferably three, most preferably four selected active cosmetic raw materials, namely HA (hyaluronic acid, hyaluronan) of different molecular weights, or MW, including hydrolyzed HA, more preferably low MW (<150 kDa), medium (> 150 kDa) and / or high MW (> 1 MDa), most preferably high MW, or a mixture thereof, and one or more active substances selected from the group consisting of different types of cross-linked HA, more preferably Sodium hyaluronan crosspolymer-3, CMG, more preferably CMG made from glucan isolated from the cell walls of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae, further glucomannan, more preferably glucomannan isolated from the fungus Candida utilis, schizophyllan, and further an activator

-3 CZ 34193 U1 proteasome, more preferably the peptide Recelline. The cosmetic preparations are preferably in the form of a skin cream, serum or nanofibers.

The term hyaluronan means a salt of hyaluronic acid and an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, for example sodium hyaluronate (INCI Sodium Hyaluronate), potassium hyaluronate (INCI Potassium Hyaluronate), calcium hyaluronate. When sodium hyaluronan is mentioned in the text, it may be optionally replaced by any other alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hyaluronan.

Furthermore, the technical solution relates to a cosmetic preparation containing these raw materials, which reduces the negative effect of polluted air such as the oxidation of barrier lipids.

When the cosmetic composition is in the form of a skin cream, it contains hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan in an amount of 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 4% by weight. The hyaluronan may be sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronan, of various MW , more preferably medium and high MW (> 150 kDa), most preferably high MW (> 1 MDa), and another one or more active ingredients selected from the group consisting of different types of crosslinked HA, preferably Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer-3, CMG, more preferably CMG made from glucan isolated from the cell walls of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae, glucomannan, more preferably glucomannan isolated from the fungus Candida utilis, and schizophyllan, and further a proteasome activator, for example Pentapeptide-60-s-Methanocal-dococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1, or Rec for each of the cosmetically active raw materials, the crosslinked HA, CMG, glucomannan and schizophyllan is 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, and the concentration of the proteasome activator is 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.01% by weight. The total concentration of active cosmetic raw materials, including hyaluronic acid and / or hyaluronan in this preparation is 0.011 to 8.1% by weight, more preferably 0.101 to 8.01% by weight. In addition, the preparation contains an oil phase, an aqueous phase and a preservative. The oil phase contains one or more components selected from the group consisting of fats, oil-soluble emulsifiers, emollients and oil-soluble active substances. The concentration of the oil phase in the composition is 2 to 74% by weight, more preferably 10 to 50% by weight, most preferably 18% by weight. The aqueous phase contains water and may contain one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of water-soluble active ingredients and water-soluble emulsifiers and thickeners. The fats in the oil phase are selected from the group consisting of oils (e.g. olive, almond oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil and others), waxes (e.g. beeswax), butters (e.g. cocoa butter, avocado butter and others) and the preservative is selected from the group including aromatic acids and their derivatives, alcohols, imidazole derivatives, cationic surfactants, for example benzoic acid, salicylic acid, parabens, ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, hydantoin, imidazole urea, benzalkonium chloride. The oil-soluble emulsifier may be, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or glyceryl stearate, the emollient may be, for example, capryl / caprine triglyceride. In the oil phase, the soluble active substances can be, for example, vitamins of groups A, D, E, K. The water-soluble active substance can be selected from the group comprising vitamin C, B vitamins, panthenol, urea, glycerol, plant extracts, cosmetic peptides, and water-soluble emulsifiers and thickeners can be, for example, triethanolamine, polysorbates, xanthan gum, Gel maker EMU or Carbomer. By cosmetic peptides is meant peptides commonly used in the cosmetic industry, for example Pentapeptide-3, Acetyl hexapeptide-3, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Monofluoroheptapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-19 or Acetyl Hexapeptide-20. Water-soluble peptides include, for example, peptides from the group consisting of acetyl hexapeptide-8, whey protein, soy protein, or tripeptide-32. Plant extracts include commonly used extracts, for example, Epilohium angustifolium extract in 1,3-butanediol, Coffea arabica green seed extract in 1,3-butanediol, Camellia Sinensis leaf extract in 1,2-propanediol, Aloe Barbadensis extract in water or planktonic extract in water. The water-soluble active substances and the oil-soluble active substances can be present in a total amount of 0.001 to 50% by weight.

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If the cosmetic preparation is in the form of a serum, it contains a combination of selected cosmetically active ingredients from the group HA (sodium hyaluronate, hydrolysed sodium hyaluronate) of different MW, more preferably medium and high MW (> 150 kDa), most preferably high MW (> 1 MDa) ), wherein the content of hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan is 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 4% by weight, and at least one other active ingredient selected from the group consisting of different types of crosslinked HA, more preferably Sodium hyaluronan crosspolymer-3 , CMG, more preferably CMG made from glucan isolated from the cell walls of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae, further glucomannan, more preferably glucomannan isolated from the fungus Candida utilis and schizophyllan, wherein the concentration of each of these cosmetically active raw materials is 0.01 to 1% by weight. 0.1 to 1% by weight, and a proteasome activator, for example Pentapeptide-60-s-Methanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1, or Recelline at a concentration of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.01% by weight. The total concentration of active cosmetic raw materials in this preparation is 0.011 to 8.1% by weight, more preferably 0.101 to 8.01% by weight. In addition, this preparation contains a water preservative. It may also contain one or more active ingredients in an amount of 0.001 to 50% by weight, selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, B vitamins, panthenol, urea, glycerol, plant extracts, cosmetic peptides. Plant extracts and cosmetic peptides are defined above.

When the cosmetic composition is in the form of nanofibers, it contains a combination of selected cosmetically active ingredients, namely hyaluronic acid and at least one other main active ingredient selected from the group consisting of carboxymethylglucan, glucomannan, schizophyllan and proteasome activator, and an auxiliary polymer. The nanofiber cosmetic product contains low MW (<150 kDa) hyaluronic acid, more preferably 84 kDa MW at a concentration of 5 to 80%, more preferably 45 to 67%, and high or medium MW (> 150 kDa) hyaluronic acid in at a concentration of 0.7 to 7% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 7% by weight, most preferably 7% by weight, and further at least one, more preferably two, most preferably three other cosmetically active ingredients selected from the group consisting of CMG, more preferably CMG made from glucan isolated from the cell walls of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae, further glucomannan, more preferably glucomannan isolated from the fungus Candida utilis and schizophyllan, each (if present) in a concentration of 0.7 to 7% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 7% by weight , most preferably 7% by weight, and / or further comprises Pentapeptide-60-s-Methanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1, or Recelline, in a concentration of 0.007 to 2% by weight, more preferably 2% by weight, most preferably 0.07% mass. The auxiliary polymer is preferably present in a concentration of 10 to 93% by weight, more preferably 20% by weight. The auxiliary polymer may be, for example, polyethylene glycol, polyethylene oxide, polyvinyl alcohol or a mixture thereof, more preferably polyethylene oxide with a MW of 400 kDA. If polyvinyl alcohol is used, its preferred concentration is 20 to 40%, more preferably 40%. In addition, the nanofiber preparation may contain one or more other active ingredients in an amount of 0.001 to 50% by weight, selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, vitamin E, B vitamins, panthenol, water-soluble peptides, water-soluble polysaccharides, plant extracts , urea, glycerol. Preferably, the nanofibers are in the form of a water-soluble dry layer.

The advantage of a suitable composition of cosmetic raw materials according to this technical solution is the protection of the skin against the negative effects of polluted air, such as the reduction of the oxidation of barrier lipids, much more significantly than is demonstrated for individual substances. Therefore, it can be assumed that in addition to the synergistic effect of the active substances, the individual active substances can also support a completely different property (than those already known) of the other substance, which participates in the anti-pollution effect. Furthermore, a significant reduction of ROS molecules in the epidermis was demonstrated, but no significant direct antioxidant activity was demonstrated for any of this active substance. As a result, the substances stimulate one of the body's natural antioxidant pathways, thus also helping to protect the skin against air pollution. All% herein are by weight unless otherwise indicated. All molar masses of polymers are MW, i.e. weight average.

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Explanation of drawings

Giant. 1 shows graph 1: The effect of cosmetics on the peroxidation of barrier lipids, i.e. the protective effect of cosmetics against cigarette smoke as a source of polluted air. The measured values represent the degree of oxidation of barrier lipids and are related to the positive control (smoke), which represents the maximum damage, ie. 100%. Pure PBS (Phosphate Buffered Saline) is a negative control, i.e. minimal (no) damage. Therefore, a decrease to PBS level is observed. Asterisks then indicate statistical significance calculated by T-test.

* p <0.05, ** p <0.01, *** p <0.001 (3 stars best).

Giant. 2 shows graph 2: The influence of cosmetic preparations on the peroxidation of barrier lipids, ie the protective effect of individual cosmetically active raw materials against cigarette smoke representing a source of polluted air. The measured values represent the degree of oxidation of barrier lipids and are related to the positive control (smoke), which represents the maximum damage, ie. 100%. Pure PBS (Phosphate Buffered Saline) is a negative control, i.e. minimal (no) damage. Therefore, a decrease to PBS level is observed. Asterisks then indicate statistical significance calculated by T-test.

* p <0.05, ** p <0.01, *** p <0.001 (3 stars best).

The effects of the composition (cream, serum or nanofiber cosmetics) were examined by applying the composition to the skin, washing the skin after 24 hours, exposing it to smoke and measuring the values shown in the graphs in Figures 1 and 2 after 1 hour. almost 100% protective effect of the composition.

Examples of technical solution

Example 1: Cosmetic product - skin cream containing active substances (formulation 1)

The composition of an exemplary skin cream formulation containing active ingredients is shown in Table 1.

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Table 1: Composition of skin cream containing active substances (formulation 1)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Oil phase Acid triglyceride caprylic / caprine 13 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Cream maker blend 5 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate Aqueous phase Water 77,999 th most common Aqua Gel maker emu 2 Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80 Preservative Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Phenoxyethanol Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Schizophyllan 0.1 Schizophyllan Recelline 0.001 Pentapeptide-60-sMethanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Vitamin B3 1 Niacinamide

An aqueous solution of the active substances is prepared in a weight ratio of the total amount of active substances to the amount of water of 1:10. An aqueous phase is prepared from the rest of the water. Next, the oil phase is prepared.

The aqueous and oil phases are heated to 70 ° C. The aqueous phase is then added to the oil phase and emulsified at higher speeds (290 rpm). The resulting emulsion is slowly cooled to 40 ° C with stirring and an aqueous solution of cosmetic raw materials (active ingredient) is added. The cooled emulsion is preserved by adding phenoxyethanol. If the pH is not between 5.2 and 5.5, it is adjusted with 1% citric acid solution or 1% potassium hydroxide solution.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of a skin cream (formulation 1) showed an anti-pollution effect, reduced the oxidation of barrier lipids (Fig. 1) more effectively than the individual cosmetically active ingredients (Fig. 2).

Example 2: Cosmetic product - skin cream containing active substances (formulation 2)

The composition of an exemplary skin cream formulation containing active ingredients is shown in Table 2.

Table 2: Composition of skin cream containing active substances (formulation 2)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Oil phase Acid triglyceride caprylic / caprine 13 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Cream maker blend 5 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate Aqueous phase Water 77,999 th most common Aqua Gel maker emu 2 Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80 Preservative Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Phenoxyethanol Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Crosslinked HA 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3 Recelline 0.001 Pentapeptide-60-sMethanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Vitamin B3 1 Niacinamide

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 1.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of a skin cream (formulation 2) showed an anti-pollution effect, reduced the oxidation of barrier lipids (Fig. 1) more effectively than the individual cosmetically active ingredients (Fig. 2).

Example 3: Cosmetic product - skin cream containing active substances (formulation 3)

The composition of an exemplary skin cream formulation containing active ingredients is shown in Table 3.

Table 3: Composition of skin cream containing active substances (formulation 3)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Oil phase Acid triglyceride caprylic / caprine 13 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Cream maker blend 5 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate Aqueous phase Water 77.9 Aqua Gel maker emu 2 Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80 Preservative Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Phenoxyethanol Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Carboxymethyl-glucan 0.1 Sodium Carboxymethyl BetaGlucan Glucomannan 0.1 Glucomannan Vitamin B3 1 Niacinamide

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 1.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of a skin cream (formulation 3) showed an anti-pollution effect, reduced the oxidation of barrier lipids (Fig. 1) more effectively than the individual cosmetically active ingredients (Fig. 2).

Example 4: Cosmetic product - skin cream containing active substances (formulation 4)

The composition of an exemplary skin cream formulation containing active ingredients is shown in Table 4.

Table 4: Composition of skin cream containing active substances (formulation 4)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Oil phase Acid triglyceride caprylic / caprine 20 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Cream maker blend 5 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate Aqueous phase Water 69.89 Aqua Gel maker emu 2 Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80 Preservative Benzyl alcohol DHA 0.8 Benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.8 Sodium Hyaluronate Schizophyllan 0.2 Schizophyllan Recelline 0.01 Pentapeptide-60-sMethanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Carboxymethyl-glucan 0.3 Sodium Carboxymethyl BetaGlucan Panthenol 1 Panthenol

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 1.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of a skin cream (formulation 4) showed an anti-pollution effect, reducing the oxidation of barrier lipids more effectively than individual cosmetically active ingredients.

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Example 5: Cosmetic product - skin cream containing active substances (formulation 5)

The composition of an exemplary skin cream formulation containing active ingredients is shown in Table 5.

Table 5: Composition of skin cream containing active substances (formulation 5)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Oil phase Acid triglyceride caprylic / caprine 22 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Cream maker blend 8 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate Aqueous phase Water 66,491 th most common Aqua Gel maker emu 2 Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80 Preservative Benzyl alcohol DHA 0.8 Benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.04 Sodium Hyaluronate Glucomannan 0.06 Glucomannan Recelline 0.009 Pentapeptide-60-sMethanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Hyaluronic acid (150 - 1300 kDa) 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Panthenol 0.5 Panthenol

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 1.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of a skin cream (formulation 5) showed an anti-pollution effect, reducing the oxidation of barrier lipids more effectively than individual cosmetically active ingredients.

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Example 6: Cosmetic product - skin cream containing active substances (formulation 6)

The composition of an exemplary skin cream formulation containing active ingredients is shown in Table 6.

Table 6: Composition of skin cream containing active substances (formulation 6)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Oil phase Acid triglyceride caprylic / caprine 29 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Cream maker blend 12 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate Aqueous phase Water 54.1 Aqua Gel maker emu 2 Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80 Preservative Benzyl alcohol DHA 0.8 Benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 1 Sodium Hyaluronate Glucomannan 0.1 Glucomannan Vitamin B3 1 Niacinamide

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 1.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of a skin cream (formulation 6) showed an anti-pollution effect, reducing the oxidation of barrier lipids more effectively than individual cosmetically active ingredients.

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Example 7: Cosmetic product - serum containing active substances (formulation 1)

The composition of an exemplary active ingredient serum formulation is shown in Table 7.

Table 7: Composition of serum containing active substances (formulation 1)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Schizophyllan 0.1 Schizophyllan Recelline 0.001 Pentapeptide-60-sMethanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide1 Vitamin B3 1 Niacinamide Aqueous phase Water 97,999 th most common Aqua Preservative Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol and sodium hyaluronate were added to the demineralized water. The solution was stirred until complete dissolution of the hyaluronan. Additional cosmetic ingredients were then added and further mixed until complete dissolution.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of serum (formulation 1) showed an anti-pollution effect, reduced the oxidation of barrier lipids (Fig. 1) more effectively than the individual cosmetically active ingredients (Fig. 2).

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Example 8: Cosmetic preparation - serum containing active substances (formulation 2)

The composition of the exemplary active ingredient serum formulation is shown in Table 8.

Table 8: Composition of serum containing active substances (formulation 2)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Crosslinked HA 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3 Recelline 0.001 Pentapeptide-60-sMethanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Vitamin B3 1 Niacinamide Aqueous phase Water 97,999 th most common Aqua Preservative Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Phenoxyethanol

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 7.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of serum (formulation 2) showed an anti-pollution effect, reduced the oxidation of barrier lipids (Fig. 1) more effectively than the individual cosmetically active ingredients (Fig. 2).

Example 9: Cosmetic product - serum containing active substances (formulation 3)

The composition of an exemplary active ingredient serum formulation is shown in Table 9.

Table 9: Composition of serum containing active substances (formulation 3)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Carboxymethylglucan 0.1 Sodium Carboxymethyl BetaGlucan Glucomannan 0.1 Glucomannan Vitamin B3 1 Niacinamide Aqueous phase Water 97.9 Aqua Preservative Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Phenoxyethanol

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 7.

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The cosmetic preparation in the form of serum (formulation 3) showed an anti-pollution effect, reduced the oxidation of barrier lipids (Fig. 1) more effectively than the individual cosmetically active ingredients (Fig. 2).

Example 10: Cosmetic product - serum containing active substances (formulation 4)

The composition of an exemplary active ingredient serum formulation is shown in Table 10.

Table 10: Composition of serum containing active substances (formulation 4)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.8 Sodium Hyaluronate Schizophyllan 0.2 Schizophyllan Recelline 0.01 Pentapeptide-60-sMethanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Carboxymethyl glucan 0.3 Sodium Carboxymethyl BetaGlucan Panthenol 1 Panthenol Aqueous phase Water 96.89 Aqua Preservative Benzyl alcohol, DHA 0.8 Benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 7.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of serum (formulation 4) showed an anti-pollution effect, reducing the oxidation of barrier lipids more effectively than individual cosmetically active ingredients.

- 15 CZ 34193 U1

Example 11: Cosmetic preparation - serum containing active substances (formulation 5)

The composition of an exemplary active ingredient serum formulation is shown in Table 11.

Table 11: Composition of serum containing active substances (formulation 5)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 0.04 Sodium Hyaluronate Glucomannan 0.06 Glucomannan Recelline 0.009 Pentapeptide-60-sMethanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Hyaluronic acid (150 - 1300 kDa) 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate Panthenol 0.5 Panthenol Aqueous phase Water 98,491 th most common Aqua Preservative Benzyl alcohol, DHA 0.8 Benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 7.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of serum (formulation 5) showed an anti-pollution effect, reducing the oxidation of barrier lipids more effectively than individual cosmetically active ingredients.

Example 12: Cosmetic preparation - serum containing active substances (formulation 6)

The composition of an exemplary active ingredient serum formulation is shown in Table 12.

Table 12: Composition of serum containing active substances (formulation 6)

Phase Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) INCI Active substances Hyaluronic acid (1.5 - 1.8 MDa) 1 Sodium Hyaluronate Glucomannan 0.1 Glucomannan Vitamin B3 1 Niacinamide Aqueous phase Water 97.1 Aqua Preservative Benzyl alcohol DHA 0.8 Benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 7.

- 16GB 34193 U1

The cosmetic preparation in the form of serum (formulation 6) showed an anti-pollution effect, reducing the oxidation of barrier lipids more effectively than individual cosmetically active ingredients.

Example 13: Cosmetic preparation - nanofiber cosmetics containing active substances (formulation 1)

The composition of an exemplary formulation of nanofiber cosmetics containing active ingredients is shown in Table 13.

Table 13: Composition of nanofiber cosmetics containing active substances (formulation 1). Concentration in% represents the representation of individual components in the final product. The absolute amount of substances represents the absolute amount of substances in the final product, which is already ready for application (i.e. dissolution in water and application to the skin) in the form of eg a square, which preferably has a weight of 6.4 to 8 mg.

Raw material Concentration (%) Absolute amount of active substances (mg) per dose INCI Polyethylene oxide 20 1.28-1.60 PEG-9m Hyaluronic acid (84 kDa) 58.93 3.77-4.71 Sodium Hyaluronate Hyaluronic acid (1.05 MDa) 7 0.45-0.56 Sodium Hyaluronate Schizophyllan 7 0.45-0.56 Schizophyllan Recelline 0.07 0.00448-0.0056 Pentapeptide-60-sMethanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Vitamin B3 7 0.45-0.56 Niacinamide

After dissolving all components in the spinning solution (in water), where the dry matter content of the spinning solution is in the range of 4.5 to 7 g and the concentrations of the individual components correspond to the concentrations in the product as shown in Table 13, the nanofibers are generated by electrospinning (4 SPIN , Contipro). The procedure is described in Czech Patent Application No. PV 2013-820. Further processing can be as follows: after spinning the formulation, shapes weighing approximately 6.4 to 8 mg are cut from the layer, for example 2x2 cm squares, 2.3 mm diameter circles, hearts or triangles, which are then enclosed in blisters. The basis weight of the layer is preferably 16 to 20 g / m ² . The user can then apply the relevant department, or several departments, to the skin where he needs it. Another advantageous variant is spinning on a textile backing, the procedure is again described in the Czech patent application No. PV 2013-820 - see Example 15 below.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of nanofiber cosmetics (formulation 1) showed an anti-pollution effect, reduced the oxidation of barrier lipids (Fig. 1) more effectively than the individual cosmetically active raw materials (Fig. 2).

- 17GB 34193 U1

Example 14: Cosmetic preparation - nanofiber cosmetics containing active substances (formulation 2)

The composition of an exemplary formulation of nanofiber cosmetics containing active ingredients is given in Table 14.

Table 14: Composition of nanofiber cosmetics containing active substances (formulation 2)

Raw material Concentration (%) Absolute amount of active substances (mg) per dose INCI Polyethylene oxide 20 1.28-1.60 PEG-9m Hyaluronic acid (84 kDa) 52 3.58-4.16 Sodium Hyaluronate Hyaluronic acid (1.05 MDa) 7 0.45-0.56 Sodium Hyaluronate Carboxymethyl glucan 7 0.45-0.56 Sodium Carboxymethyl BetaGlucan Glucomannan 7 0.45-0.56 Glucomannan Vitamin B3 7 0.45-0.56 Niacinamide

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same way as described in Example 13.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of nanofiber cosmetics (formulation 2) showed an anti-pollution effect, reduced the oxidation of barrier lipids (Fig. 1) more effectively than the individual cosmetically active raw materials (Fig. 2).

- 18 CZ 34193 U1

Example 15: Cosmetic preparation - nanofiber cosmetics containing active substances (formulation 3)

The composition of an exemplary formulation of nanofiber cosmetics containing active ingredients is given in Table 15.

Table 15: Composition of nanofiber cosmetics containing active substances (formulation 3)

Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) Absolute amount of active substances (mg) per dose INCI Polyethylene oxide 20 1.28-1.60 PEG-9m Hyaluronic acid (84 kDa) 67 4.29-5.36 Sodium Hyaluronate Hyaluronic acid (1.05 MDa) 1.5 0.448-0.56 Sodium Hyaluronate Schizophyllan 1.5 0.448-0.56 Schizophyllan Glucomannan 3 0.19-0.24 Glucomannan Recelline 2 0.13-0.16 Pentapeptide-60-s- Methanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Vitamin E 2.5 0.16-0.20 Tocopherol Vitamin C 2.5 0.16-0.20 Sodium Phosphate Askorbyl

The cosmetic composition is prepared as described in the Czech patent application PV 2013820 on a carrier fabric with a basis weight of preferably 2.5 to 3.5 g / m ² , for example of polyester, cellulose, polyurethane, polypropylene, polyethylene, viscose, polyamide, or mixtures thereof. Subsequently, the fabric with the nanofiber layer is cut into molds of various shapes, where a set of shapes such as 8 2 x 5 cm rectangles is applied to the face.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of nanofiber cosmetics (formulation 3) showed an anti-pollution effect, reduced the oxidation of barrier lipids (Fig. 1) more effectively than the individual cosmetically active raw materials (Fig. 2).

- 19CZ 34193 U1

Example 16: Cosmetic preparation - nanofiber cosmetics containing active substances (formulation 4)

The composition of an exemplary formulation of nanofiber cosmetics containing active ingredients is shown in Table 16.

Table 16: Composition of nanofiber cosmetics containing active substances (formulation 4)

Raw material Concentration per 100 g (%) Absolute amount of active substances (mg) per dose INCI Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) 40 2.56-3.20 polyvinyl alcohol crosspolymer Hyaluronic acid (84 kDa) 47 3.01-3.76 Sodium Hyaluronate Hyaluronic acid (1.05 MDa) 1.5 0.10-0.12 Sodium Hyaluronate Schizophyllan 1.5 0.10-0.12 Schizophyllan Glucomannan 3 0.19-0.24 Glucomannan Recelline 2 0.13-0.16 Pentapeptide-60-s- Methanocaldococcus Jannaschii Heptapeptide-1 Vitamin E 2.5 0.16-0.20 Tocopherol Vitamin C 2.5 0.16-0.20 Sodium Askorbyl Phosphate

The cosmetic preparation is prepared in the same manner as described in Example 13.

The cosmetic preparation in the form of nanofiber cosmetics (formulation 4) showed an anti-pollution effect, reducing the oxidation of barrier lipids more effectively than individual cosmetically active raw materials.

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Claims (5)

CLAIMS FOR PROTECTION A cosmetic composition for protecting the skin from the adverse effects of air pollution, comprising hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan, further comprising a proteasome activator and at least one other main active substance selected from the group consisting of cross-linked hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl glucan, glucomannan and schizophyllan . Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it comprises a proteasome activator and at least two further main active substances selected from the group consisting of cross-linked hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl glucan, glucomannan and schizophyllan. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it comprises a proteasome activator and at least three further main active substances selected from the group consisting of cross-linked hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl glucan, glucomannan and schizophyllan. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hyaluronan is sodium hyaluronan or hydrolysed sodium hyaluronan having a low molecular weight below 150 kDa, or sodium hyaluronan having an average weight average molecular weight of at least 150 kDa, or high weight sodium hyaluronan an average molecular weight of at least 1 MDa, or a mixture of low weight average molecular weight sodium or hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, or a mixture of medium and / or high weight average molecular weight sodium hyaluronate. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked hyaluronic acid is sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer-3 and / or carboxymethyl glucan is carboxymethylglucan made from glucan isolated from Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast cell walls and / or glucomannan is isolated from glucomannan isolated from fungi Candida utilis and / or proteasome activator is the peptide Recelline. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a skin cream, serum or nanofibers. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that it is in the form of a skin cream and that the content of hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan is 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 4% by weight, and the total content of all of the main active ingredients including hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan is 0.011 to 8.1% by weight, preferably 0.101 to 8.01% by weight, the content of each optional main active ingredient selected from the group consisting of crosslinked hyaluronic acid, carboxymethylglucan, glucomannan and schizophyllan is 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, and the proteasome activator content is 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.01% by weight, and in that it further contains an oil phase, an aqueous phase and a preservative. -23 CZ 34193 U1 Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the oil phase contains one or more components selected from the group consisting of fats, oil-soluble emulsifiers, emollients and oil-soluble active substances, and the aqueous phase contains water and may contain one or more a plurality of ingredients selected from the group consisting of water-soluble active ingredients and water-soluble emulsifiers, wherein the concentration of the oil phase in the composition is 2 to 74% by weight, more preferably 10 to 50% by weight, most preferably 18% by weight. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the fats are selected from the group consisting of oils, waxes, butters and the preservative is selected from the group consisting of aromatic acids and their derivatives, alcohols, imidazole derivatives, cationic surfactants. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the active ingredients in the oil phase are vitamins from groups A, D, E, K and the preservative is substances from the group consisting of benzoic acid, salicylic acid, parabens, ethanol, isopropanol. , benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, hydantoin, imidazole urea, benzalkonium chloride. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 8 to 10, characterized in that the water-soluble active substance is selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, B vitamins, panthenol, urea, glycerol, plant extracts and cosmetic peptides. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that it is in the form of a serum and that the content of hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan is 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 4% by weight, and the total content of all major of active substances including hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan is 0.011 to 8.1% by weight, preferably 0.101 to 8.01% by weight, the content of each optional main active substance selected from the group consisting of cross-linked hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl-glucan, glucomannan and schizophyllan is 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, and the proteasome activator content is 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.01% by weight, and thus that it further contains water and a preservative. The cosmetic composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it further comprises one or more active substances selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, B vitamins, panthenol, urea, glycerol, plant extracts, cosmetic peptides. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it is in the form of nanofibers and that the other main active substance is selected from the group consisting of carboxymethyl glucan, glucomannan, schizophyllan, and that the hyaluronan is a mixture of sodium hyaluronate or hydrolysed sodium hyaluronan. molecular weight below 150 kDa in an amount of 5 to 80% by weight, preferably 45 to 67% by weight, and high weight average molecular weight sodium hyaluronate of at least 1 MDa in an amount of 0.7 to 7% by weight, more preferably 1, 5 to 7% by weight, most preferably 7% by weight, and that the content of each optional main active substance selected from the group consisting of carboxymethyl glucan, glucomannan and schizophyllan is 0.7 to 7% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 7% by weight. wt., most preferably 7 wt.%, and the proteasome activator content is 0.007 to 2 wt.%, more preferably 0.07 to 2 wt.%, most preferably 0.07 wt.%, and that it further comprises an auxiliary polymer. The cosmetic composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the low weight average molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight of 84 kDa. Cosmetic composition according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that the auxiliary polymer is present in a concentration of 10 to 93% by weight, more preferably 20% by weight, and is selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol, polyethylene oxide, polyvinyl alcohol or a mixture thereof. -24CZ 34193 U1 Cosmetic composition according to Claim 14, characterized in that the auxiliary polymer is polyethylene oxide with a weight-average molecular weight of 400 kDA. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 14 to 17, characterized in that it further comprises one or more excipients in an amount of 0.001 to 50% by weight, selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, vitamin E, B vitamins, panthenol , water - soluble peptides, water - soluble polysaccharides, plant extracts, urea, glycerol. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 14 to 18, characterized in that the nanofibres are in the form of a water-soluble dry layer.