CZ20003900A3 - Articles for cleaning skin and/or hair, containing also active substances for skin care - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a substantially dry personal product one-use hygiene, which is useful as for cleaning skin or hair, so it gives the skin or hair active skin care agents. These products are used so that the consumer (i) moistens the dry product with water and (ii) mechanical force, for example, by generating foam from the moistened product. The product comprises a water-insoluble substrate, a foaming surfactant, and an active skin care ingredient. Furthermore, the products of the present invention preferably comprise a deposition promoting agent and / or conditioning component

Description

Skin and / or hair cleansing products also containing skin care active ingredients

Technical field

The present invention relates to a substantially dry, disposable personal care product that is useful both for cleansing the skin or hair, and provides the skin or hair with active ingredients for skin care. These products are used by moistening the dry product with water, forming a foam from the product, and applying the foamed product to the skin in the usual manner of skin cleansing. These products comprise a water-insoluble substrate, at least one foaming surfactant and at least one skin care active.

The use of a substrate improves foaming at low surfactant concentrations, enhances cleaning and peeling, optimizes delivery and deposition of active skin protection ingredients, and exhibits desirable characteristics such as texture, thickness and volume. As a result, the present invention provides effective cleansing using low and therefore less irritating surfactant concentrations while providing the skin or hair with a perfect delivery of skin care active ingredients.

The invention also encompasses articles containing and supplying various skin conditioners to the skin or hair.

The invention also encompasses a method of permanently storing skin care active ingredients in the skin or hair.

The invention also encompasses a method of simultaneous cleansing of the skin or hair and delivery of skin care or skin care active ingredients using the products of the present invention, as well as methods of making such products.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Traditionally, personal care products are sold in a variety of forms such as bars of soap, creams, solutions and gels. These detergents seek to meet many criteria to make them acceptable to consumers. These criteria include cleansing efficiency, skin sensation, softness to the skin, hair and eye mucosa, and foam volume. Ideal personal hygiene products should gently cleanse the skin or hair, cause little or no irritation and, with frequent use, leave the skin or hair dry.

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However, these traditional forms of personal hygiene products have a significant problem of balancing the effectiveness of skin cleansing with the provision of beneficial care. One solution is the separate use of skin cleansing products and skin care products. However, this is not always satisfactory or practical, and many consumers would prefer a single product that both cleans and provides beneficial skin care. In a typical cleanser, the skin care ingredients are difficult to formulate because many skin care ingredients are incompatible with surfactants, resulting in an undesirable inhomogeneous composition. To obtain a homogeneous composition with skin care ingredients and to prevent loss of skin care ingredients prior to storage, other ingredients, such as emulsifiers, hardeners and gelants, are often added to aid in the suspension of skin care ingredients in the surfactant mixture. The result is an aesthetically pleasing homogeneous blend, but often the skin care ingredients are poorly stored because the skin care ingredients are emulsified and are not sufficiently released during cleaning. Many skin care agents also have the disadvantage of suppressing the formation of foam. Suppression of foam formation is a problem because many consumers are looking for cleaning products that provide rich, creamy, and abundant foam.

It follows that the disadvantages of conventional cleaning products that seek to combine surfactants and skin care ingredients are that surfactants and skin care ingredients are incompatible. Clearly, there is a need to develop cleansing systems that provide both effective cleansing and consistently sufficiently favorable skin care in one product.

It is also highly desirable to provide cleansing and beneficial skin care in a disposable product. Disposable products are convenient because they eliminate the need to carry bulky bottles, cubes, glasses, tubes and other forms of personal care products. Disposable products are also a much more hygienic alternative to the use of sponges, washcloths and other cleaning utensils intended for reuse because they cause bacterial growth, unpleasant odor and other unwanted characteristics associated with reuse.

Surprisingly, it has been shown in the present invention that it is possible to develop products that provide effective cleaning and consistently delivering active ingredients for skin care, as a comfortable, inexpensive and hygienic personal hygiene product having desirable washcloth properties. The present invention advantageously avoids the need to separately use the product for

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Skin cleansing and skin care products. The present invention is very convenient to use since the article is substantially in dry form and is wetted before use.

The present invention relates to a dry disposable personal hygiene product that is useful both for cleansing the skin or hair, and provides the skin or hair with active ingredients for skin care. These products are used in such a way that the consumer moistens the dry product with water. The products of the present invention comprise a water-insoluble substrate, at least one foaming surfactant and at least one skin care active. In some embodiments, the articles further comprise a deposition aid. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate improves foaming at low surfactant concentrations, enhances cleaning and peeling, and optimizes the delivery and consistent deposition of active skin protection ingredients. As a result, the present invention provides effective cleansing using low and therefore less irritating surfactant concentrations while providing skin and hair perfectly and efficiently with skin care agents. It has also been shown that these products are useful for delivering skin or hair to various conditioning ingredients during the cleaning process.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide substantially dry washcloth-like products which, when in contact with water, cleanse both the skin or hair and provide the skin or hair with active skin care ingredients.

It is another object of the present invention to provide disposable articles.

It is another object of the present invention to provide products that are soft to the skin or hair.

Another object of the present invention is to provide products useful for delivering skin or hair conditioning agents during the cleaning process.

Another object of the present invention is to provide products that consistently deposit active skin care agents and other conditioning agents in the skin or hair.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide methods of cleansing the skin or hair and consistently delivering the skin or hair to the skin care active ingredients.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide methods of making the articles of the present invention.

The following disclosure will elucidate these and other objects of the invention.

• · • ··

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to disposable personal care cleansing and conditioning products comprising A) a water-insoluble substrate, B) at least one foaming surfactant added to or impregnated with the substrate, and C) a skin care component comprising at least one active ingredient for skin care products selected from the group consisting of water-soluble skin care active ingredients, oil-soluble skin care active ingredients, and mixtures thereof. The active skin care ingredients are also added to or impregnated into the substrate. These products are substantially dry before wetting. However, when wetted, these products are capable of generating an average foam volume of greater than or equal to 30 ml.

In another embodiment, the articles of the present invention further comprise at least one deposition agent added to or impregnated into said substrate.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to methods of making such disposable personal care cleansing products. The method comprises A) a step in which i) the foaming surfactant and ii) the skin care active ingredient are separately or simultaneously added to the water-insoluble substrate or impregnated into the water-insoluble substrate and B) a drying step of the treated substrate. The resulting product generates an average foam volume of greater than or equal to 30 ml.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to methods for simultaneously cleansing the skin or hair and delivering the skin or hair to the skin care active ingredients using the personal care cleansing products described herein.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to methods for consistently depositing skin care active ingredients into skin or hair.

Unless otherwise stated, all percentages and ratios used are by weight, all measurements were taken at 25 ° C. The present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of essential and preferred ingredients and described ingredients.

Detailed description of the invention.

The personal care cleansing products of the present invention are very effective in cleansing the skin or hair while providing effective deposition of skin care active ingredients into the skin or hair. The articles may also contain conditioning agents to be deposited in the skin or hair.

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Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate contributes substantially to the generation of foam and deposition of skin care active ingredients and all other conditioning agents into the skin or hair. This increase in foam and deposition is believed to be the result of surface interaction of the substrate with the skin or hair. As a result, finer and substantially less surfactant is used. It is believed that the reduced amount of surfactant required results in a lower desiccation effect of the surfactants on the skin or hair. In addition, a reduced amount of surfactant dramatically reduces the inhibitory effect of the surfactant on the deposition of active skin care ingredients in the skin or hair (e.g., by emulsifying or direct removal of surfactants).

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the substrate also improves the deposition of active skin care ingredients and conditioning agents. Since the invention is in dry form, it does not require emulsifiers that can inhibit the deposition of active skin care ingredients and conditioning agents. Since the active skin care ingredients and skin conditioners are dried on or impregnated into the substrate, they are transferred directly to the skin or hair by contacting the skin with the surface of the moistened article.

The substrate also improves cleaning. The substrate may have a different structure on each side, e.g. a coarse and fine side. The substrate acts as a tool for efficient foaming and peeling. On physical contact with the skin or hair, the substrate helps substantially in cleaning and removing dirt, makeup, dead skin and other residues.

"Foamy surfactant" means a surfactant that generates foam when in contact with water and mechanical movement. Preferably, the surfactants are mild, meaning that the surfactants provide sufficient cleansing or detersive benefit without drying too much skin or hair (e.g., by excess removal of natural oil and / or moisture) and yet satisfy the aforementioned foaming requirements.

The term “single use” here means a product that is discarded after one use.

The term "foaming product" or "foamed product" herein means that the products of the present invention contain an amount of a surfactant described herein sufficient to generate > 30 ml foam volume, as described in the Foam Volume Test. These measurements are made with water of medium hardness (8 to 10 grans per gallon) at 95 ° C.

The term "activated by water" herein means that the present invention reaches the consumer in a dry form and is useful after wetting with water. It turned out that these products »

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• they create foam or “activate” by contact with water and then by mechanical action such as rubbing.

The term "substantially dry" herein means that, prior to use, the article is substantially free of water and acts dry to the touch. The products of the present invention generally contain less than 10 wt. % water, preferably less than 5 wt. % water and more preferably less than 1 wt. % water, measured in a dry environment at low humidity. One skilled in the art will appreciate that the water content of the product of the present invention may vary depending on the relative humidity of the environment.

As used herein, the term " fine " in conjunction with the foaming surfactants and products of the present invention means that the skin softness of the products of the present invention is comparable to the synbar (i.e. a synthetic product containing a fine alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate surfactant). Methods for measuring the softness or irritability of surfactant-containing products are based on the skin barrier breakage test. In this test, the finer the surfactant, the less the skin barrier is broken. Skin barrier failure is measured by the relative amount of radiolabelled water (tritium labeled, 3H-H2O) that passes from the test solution through the skin to the saline contained in the diffusion chamber. The test is described by T.J. Franz in J. Invest. Dermatol., 1975, 64, 190-195 and Smali et al. in U.S. Pat. patent. No. 4,673,525, issued June 16, 1987, both references being incorporated herein in their entirety. Other methods for determining the fineness of a surfactant are also well known to those skilled in the art.

The term "deposition consistency" here means that the deposition of skin care active ingredients is relatively independent of the way the consumer prepares for use and actually uses a cleansing product (eg, foaming the side of the skin-care active versus foaming side of the substrate). surfactant). The storage consistency of the articles of the present invention is greater than 60%, preferably greater than 65%, more preferably greater than 70% and most preferably greater than 75%. The measured deposition consistency is the coefficient obtained by dividing the amount of skin care active ingredients stored in "non-ideal foaming and use" by the amount of skin care active ingredients stored with "ideal foaming and use". Non-ideal foaming here means that foaming is achieved by rubbing against or against the surface of the skin care product containing product and then contacting the skin or hair with the surface. This leads to insufficient deposition of the skin care actives, since some of the skin care actives are emulsified with the surfactant.

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Ideal foaming here means that foaming is achieved by rubbing against or against the surface of the surfactant-containing product but not the skin care active and then contacting the skin or hair with the surface containing the skin care active. The same applies if both surfaces of the substrate contain skin care active ingredients (e.g., after foaming and skin contact with the same foamed surface containing emulsified skin care active versus skin contact with a non-foamed surface containing non-emulsified skin care active ingredient). skin). The deposition consistency is maximum when the hardness value of the skin care active ingredient is greater than 0.02 kg.

The personal care products of the present invention comprise the following essential components: A) a water insoluble substrate, B) at least one foaming surfactant added to or impregnated with the substrate, and C) at least one skin care active. The articles of the present invention further comprise at least one deposition aid.

Water insoluble substrate

The products of the present invention comprise a water-insoluble substrate. "Water insoluble" here means that the substrate does not dissolve or immediately disintegrate when immersed in water. The water-insoluble substrate is a tool or composition for delivering a foaming surfactant and skin or hair care active ingredients. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate, as a means of transmitting mechanical action and motion, acts to generate and also deposit active ingredients for skin protection in the skin or hair.

Many different substances are used as substrates. The following non-limiting properties are desirable: i) sufficient wet strength, ii) sufficient roughness, iii) sufficient airiness and porosity, iv) sufficient thickness, and v) suitable size.

Non-limiting examples of suitable insoluble substrates that meet the above criteria include non-woven substrates, woven substrates, hydroentangled substrates, aeroentangled substrates, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, polymeric reticulated mesh meshes, and the like. In a preferred embodiment, nonwoven substrates are used because they are readily and economically available in a variety of materials. Non-woven means that the layer consists of fibers that are not woven into the fabric, but rather form a sheet, mat, or backing layer. The fibers are either random (i.e., randomly ordered) or are

• carded (ie combed with orientation mostly in only direction). The nonwoven substrate may further comprise a combination of layers of random and carded fibers.

Nonwoven substrates may be comprised of a variety of natural and synthetic materials. Natural means that the materials are derived from plants, animals, insects or plant, animal and insect by-products. Synthetic means that the materials are predominantly obtained from various artificial materials or from natural materials that have been further altered. A common base material is a fibrous web consisting of conventional synthetic or natural textile fibers of usual length or mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of natural materials useful in the present invention are silk fibers, keratin fibers, and cellulose fibers. Non-limiting examples of keratin fibers include fibers selected from the group consisting of wool fibers, camel hair fibers, and the like. Non-limiting examples of cellulosic fibers include fibers selected from the group consisting of pulp fibers, cotton fibers, hemp fibers, jute fibers, flax fibers, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of synthetic materials useful in the present invention include materials selected from the group consisting of acetate fibers, acrylic fibers, cellulose ester fibers, modacrylic fibers, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, polyolefin fibers, polyvinyl alcohol fibers, rayon fibers, polyurethane foam, and mixtures thereof. Examples of some of these synthetic materials include acrylates such as acrylate, creslane and acrylonitrile fiber, orion; ester cellulose fibers such as cellulose acetate, amel and acel; polyamides such as fortrel, codel and polyethylene terephthalate fiber, dacron; polyolefins such as polypropylene, polyethylene; polyvinyl acetate fibers; polyurethane foams and mixtures thereof. These and other suitable fibers and nonwoven materials prepared therefrom are generally described in Riedel, " Nonwoen Bonding Methods and Materials ", Nonwoven World (1987), The American Encyclopedia, Vol. 11, pp. 147-153 and Vol. 26, pp. 566-581 (1984); No. 4,891,227. Thaman et al., Issued Jan. 2, 1990; U.S. Patent No. 4,891,228; all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Nonwoven substrates made of natural materials consist of nets or sheets most commonly formed from a liquid suspension of fibers on a fine-wire grid. See. C.A.

Hampel et al., The Encyclopedia of Chemistry, 3rd Edition, pp. 793-795 (1973), The

American Encyclopedia, Vol. 21, pp. 376-383 (1984) and G.A. Smook, Handbook of Pulp and · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·· ··· ·· ··

Paper Technologies, Technical Association for the Pulp and Paper Industry (1986); references are incorporated herein in their entirety.

Substrates made from natural materials useful in the present invention are obtained from many different commercial sources. Non-limiting examples of suitable commercially available paper layers useful in the present invention include Airtex ^R , an air embossed ribbed cellulose layer of 71 grams per square yard (gsy) available from James River, Green Bay, WI; and Walkisoft ^R , an air embossed ribbed cellulose layer with a basis weight of 75 gsy, available from Walkisoft USA, Mount Holly, NC.

Methods for making nonwoven substrates are well known in the art. Generally, nonwoven substrates are obtainable by air-laying, water-laying, melt-blowing, coforming, rotational bonding or carding processes, wherein fibers or filaments of desired length are first cut from long strips, which are then immersed in a stream of water or air and then deposited a grid through which air or water carrying the fiber passes. The resulting layer is then, independently of the method of manufacture or composition, subjected to at least one of various types of bonding operations to attach the individual fibers together to form a self-supporting network. According to the present invention, the nonwoven layer is obtainable by a variety of methods including hydroentangled, thermobonding or thermobonding and combinations thereof. In addition, the substrates of the present invention may consist of a single layer or multiple layers. In addition, the multilayer substrate may comprise films and other non-fibrous materials.

Nonwoven substrates made of synthetic materials useful in the present invention are also obtained from many different commercial sources. Non-limiting examples of suitable nonwoven layer materials useful in the present invention include HEF 40-047, an aperture hydroentangled material comprising 50% rayon and 50% polyester with a basis weight of 43 grams per square yard (gsy), available from Veratec, Inc. Walpole, MA .; HEF 140-102, an aperture hydroentangled material comprising 50% rayon and 50% polyester of a basis weight of 56 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc, Walpole, MA; Novonet ^R 149-616, a lattice pattern thermo-binding material containing 100% polypropylene with a basis weight of 50 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc, Walpole, MA; Novonet ^R 149-801, thermo-bonded grid pattern material containing 69% rayon, 25% polypropylene and 6% cotton with a basis weight of 75 gsy, available from • it to it •

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Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA; Novonet ^R 149-191, a thermally bonded grid pattern material containing 69% rayon, 25% polypropylene, and 6% cotton of 100 gs basis weight, available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA; HEF Nubtex ^R 149-801, a studded aperture hydroentangled material containing 100% polyester of a basis weight of 70 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc, Walpole, MA; Keybak ^R 951 V, dry aperture material containing 75% rayon, 25% acrylic fibers of 43 gsy basis weight, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Keybak ^R 1368, an aperture material containing 75% rayon, 25% polyester of a basis weight of 39 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Duralace ^R 1236, an aperture hydroentangled material containing 100% rayon of a basis weight of 40 to 115 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Duralace ^R 5904, an aperture hydroentangled material containing 100% rayon of a basis weight of 40 to 115 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Chicopee ^R 5763, carded hydroaperture material (8x6 apertures per inch) containing 70% rayon, 30% polyester and preferably up to 5 wt. % latex binder (EVA) having a basis weight of 75 to 63 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Chicopee ^R 9900 series (eg Chicopee 9931 - 52 gsy, 50/50 rayon / polyester and Chicopee 9950 - 42 gsy, 50/50 artificial silk / polyester), carded hydroentangled material containing fiber composition from 50% rayon and 50% polyester to 100% polyester with a basis weight of 30 to 70 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Sontara 8868, a hydroentangled material comprising 50% cellulose and 50% polyester with a basis weight of 60 gsy, available from Dupont Chemical Corp.

Alternatively, a crosslinked polymer sponge polymer sponge is usable as a water-insoluble substrate, as described in European Patent No. EP 702550 A1, issued March 27, 1996, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The polymer sponge comprises a plurality of extruded tubular mesh meshes made of a highly flexible polymer, such as olefin monomer and polycarboxylic acid polyamide addition polymers. Although these polymer sponges have been designed for use in conjunction with liquid cleaning compositions, these types of sponges are useful in the present invention as a water-insoluble substrate.

The substrate can be manufactured in many different shapes and forms including flat pads, thick pads, thin sheets, balloon-shaped implements, irregular shaped implements, in surface area sizes ranging from four inches to hundreds of square inches. The exact size depends on the application and »» · · ¥

product. Particularly suitable are square, round, rectangular or oval pads with a surface area of 1 to 144 square inches, preferably 10 to 120 square inches, more preferably 30 to square inches, with a thickness of 1 to 500 miles, preferably 5 to 250 miles, more preferably 10 to 100 mil.

The water-insoluble substrates of the present invention may comprise two or more layers, each having a different structure, abrasion and extensibility. The different structure is the result of using different combinations of materials or different manufacturing methods or combinations thereof. The dual structure substrate provides the advantage of a more abrasive side for exfoliation and a softer side with an absorbent for fine cleaning. In addition, the substrate may be a laminate of two layers with different moisture extensibility. Examples of such laminate substrates are described in copending U.S. application Ser. Ser. No. 09 / 013,640, filed Jan. 26, 1998, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. In addition, the separate substrate layers can be made in a variety of colors to further facilitate the consumer to distinguish between surfaces. In addition, it is desirable that the substrates of the present invention have round corners. This feature avoids the tendency of water to accumulate in the corners of the square substrate.

Foamy surfactant

The products of the present invention contain an amount of foaming surfactant capable of generating a foam volume greater than or equal to 30 ml (mean water hardness at 95 ° C) according to the foam volume test described herein. The products of the present invention preferably contain 0.5 to 40 wt. %, more preferably 0.75 to 12.5 wt. % and most preferably 1 to 11 wt. % foaming surfactant by weight of the water-insoluble substrate.

Foaming surfactant means a surfactant which upon contact with water and mechanical movement generates foam or soaps capable of foaming the entire product. Preferably, the surfactants or combinations thereof are delicate, which means that the surfactants provide sufficient cleansing or detersive benefits without excessively drying the skin or hair and yet satisfy the aforementioned foaming requirements.

Many different foaming surfactants are useful in the present invention and are selected from the group consisting of anionic foaming surfactants, nonionic foaming surfactants, amphoteric foaming surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Generally, foaming surfactants do not interfere strongly with the deposition of conditioning agents, e.g., they are well water soluble and generally have an HLB value greater than 10. Cationic foaming surfactants are also used as preferred ingredients, provided they do not adversely affect the foaming properties of the desired surfactants. foaming surfactants.

Anionic foaming surfactants

Non-limiting examples of anionic foaming surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are described by McCutcheon in Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; McCutcheon in Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992); and Lauglin et al. in U.S. Pat. No. 3,929,678, issued December 30, 1975, all references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

Many different anionic foaming surfactants are useful in the present invention. Non-limiting examples of anionic foaming surfactants include anionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of sarcosinates, sulfates, isethionates, taurates, phosphates, lactylates, glutamates, and mixtures thereof. Of the isethionates, alkoyl isethionates are preferred, and of the sulfates, alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates are preferred. Alkoyl isethionates have the typical formula RCO-OCH 2 CH 2 SO 3 M, wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl group of 10 to 30 carbon atoms and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and triethanolamine. Non-limiting examples of these isethionates include alkoyl isethionates selected from the group consisting of ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof.

Alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates have a typical formula of ROSO3M and RO (C2H4O) _x SO3M, respectively, wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl group of 10 to 30 carbon atoms, x is 1 to 10 and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and triethanolamine. Another suitable class of anionic surfactants are the water-soluble organosulfuric acid salts of the formula R 1 -SO 3 -M, wherein R 1 is selected from the group consisting of straight or branched chain saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms and M is a cation. Yet another class of anionic synthetic surfactants includes succinamates, C 12 -C 24 olefin sulfonates, and β-alkyloxyalkane sulfonates. Examples of such materials are sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate.

Other useful materials herein are soaps (i.e., alkali metal salts, e.g., sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids, typically having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms. The fatty acids used for the production of soaps are obtained from natural sources such as glycerides derived from plants or animals (eg palm oil, coconut oil,

Soybean oil, castor oil, tallow, lard, etc.). Fatty acids can also be produced synthetically.

Soaps are described in detail in U.S. Pat. No. 4,557,853.

Other useful anionic materials include phosphates such as monoalkyldialkyl- and trialkylphosphoric salts.

Other anionic materials include alkanoyl sarcosinates of the formula RCON (CH 3) CH 2 CH 2 CO 2 M, wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl group of 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M is a water soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and alkanolamine (e.g. triethanolamine), examples are sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium myristoyl sarcosinate. TEA salts of sarcosinates are also useful.

Also useful are taurates based on taurine, which is also known as

2-aminoethanesulfonic acid. Taurates having a carbon chain length of Cg to C16 are particularly useful. Examples of taurates include N-alkyltaurines such as the product of the reaction of dodecylamine with sodium isethionate according to U.S. Pat. No. 2,658,072, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Other non-limiting examples include the ammonium, sodium, potassium, and alkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine) salts of lauroylmethyltaurate, myristoylmethyltaurate, and cocoylmethyltaurate.

Also useful are lactylates, especially lactates having a carbon chain length of Cg to C16. Non-limiting examples of lactylates include the ammonium, sodium, potassium, and alkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine) salts of lauroyl lactylate, cocoyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, and caproyl lactylate.

Glutamates are also useful herein as anionic surfactants, in particular C8 to C16 carbon chain length glutamates. Non-limiting examples of glutamates include the ammonium, sodium, potassium, and alkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine) salts of lauroylglutamate, myristoylglutamate, and cocoylglutamate.

Non-limiting examples of preferred anionic foaming surfactants useful in the present invention include anionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium laureth sulphate, sodium tridecosulphate, sodium cetyl sulphate, sodium cetyl sulphate, sodium cetyl sulphate, sodium cetyl sulphate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl methyltaurate, sodium cocoyl methyltaurate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, and sodium cocoylglutamate and mixtures thereof.

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Particular preference is given here to ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and triethanolamine lauroyl lactylate.

Nonionic foaming surfactants

Non-limiting examples of nonionic foaming surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are described by McCutcheon in Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation and McCutcheon in Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992), both references incorporated herein in their entirety.

Nonionic foaming surfactants useful herein include nonionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of alkyl glucosides, alkyl polyglucosides, polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, alkoxylated fatty acid esters, sucrose foaming esters, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Useful according to the present invention are alkylglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides, which are generally defined as the condensation products of long-chain alcohols, eg C8-C30 alcohols with sugars or starches or with sugar or starch polymers, i. glycosides or polyglycosides. They are compounds of formula (S) _n -OR, wherein S is a sugar group such as glucose, fructose, mannose and galactose, n is an integer from 1 to 1000 and R is a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols to which the alkyl group is derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and the like. Preferred examples of these surfactants have as the glucose group S, R is a C 8 -C 20 alkyl group and n is an integer of 1 to 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decylpolyglucoside (such as AGP 325 CS supplied by Henkel) and lauryl polyglucoside (such as AGP 600 CS and 625) CS supplied by Henkel). Useful surfactants are also sucrose esters such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.

Other useful nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, specific examples include glucosamines of Formula I

AB ¹ , II I

RCN - (I) wherein R ¹ is H, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, 2-hydroxyethyl,

A 2-hydroxypropyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl or ethyl group, most preferably a methyl group; R ² is C 5 -C 31 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C 7 -C 19 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably C 9 -C 17 alkyl or 4 4

4 4 4 4

4 4 4 4 4

4 4 4 4

An alkenyl group, most preferably a C 11 -C 15 alkyl or alkenyl group; and Z is a linear hydrocarbon chain polyhydroxyhydrocarbyl group having at least 3 hydroxyl groups directly attached to the chain, or an alkoxylated derivative (preferably an ethoxy or propoxy derivative). Z is preferably a sugar group selected from the group consisting of glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, xylose, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred surfactants of the above structure is coconut alkyl N-methyl glucose (i.e., That R ² -CO- group is derived from coconut oil fatty acids). Methods for making polyhydroxy fatty acid amide-containing compositions are described, for example, in GB Patent Specification 809,060, issued February 18, 1959 (Thomas Hedley & Co., Ltd.), US Patent No. 2,965,576 (ER Wilson), issued December 20, 1960; U.S. Patent No. 2,703,798 (AM Schwartz), issued March 8, 1955, and U.S. Patent No. 6,201,519. No. 1,985,424 (Piggott), issued Dec. 25, 1934, incorporated herein by reference.

Other examples of nonionic surfactants include amine oxides. The amine oxides have the general formula R ₁ R ₂ R ₃ N-> O, wherein R 1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, 0 to 10 ethylene oxide groups and 0 to 1 glyceryl and R ₂ and R ₃ contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms and 0 to 1 hydroxy, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl radical. An arrow in the general formula conventionally denotes a semipolar bond. Examples of amine oxides useful in the present invention include dimethyldodecylamine oxide, oleyldi (2-hydroxyethyl) amine oxide, dimethyloctylamine oxide, dimethyldecylamine oxide, dimethyltetradecylamine oxide, 3,6,9-trioxaheptadecyldiethylamine oxide, di (2-hydroxyethyl) tetradecylamine oxide, 2-dodecylamine oxide, 2-dodecylamine oxide

3-dodecoxy-2-hydroxypropyldi (3-hydroxypropyl) amine oxide, dimethylhexadecylamine oxide.

Non-limiting examples of preferred nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of Cg-Cu glucosamides, Cg-Cu alkyl polyglucosides, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, lauramine oxide, cocoamine oxide, and mixtures thereof.

Amphoteric foaming surfactants

The term "amphoteric foaming surfactant" is also used herein to refer to zwitterionic surfactants, which are well known to those skilled in the art as a subset of amphoteric surfactants.

Many different amphoteric foaming surfactants are useful in the compositions of the present invention. Particularly useful are derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines, preferably with cationic nitrogen, wherein the aliphatic radicals have a direct or a 99 9 9

9 1

9 9 9 9 9 9 9

991 99 999 999 19 9 and wherein one of the radicals contains an ionizable water-soluble group, eg a carboxy group, a sulfonate, a phosphate or a phosphonate group.

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are described in McCutcheoms Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation and in McCutcheon's Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992), both references incorporated herein in their entirety .

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultains, hydroxysultains, alkyliminoacetates, iminodialkanoates, aminoalkanates, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of betaines include the higher alkyl betaines such as coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethylkarboxymethylbetain, lauryl, cetyldimethylkarboxymethylbetain, cetyl dimethyl betaine (as Lonzaine 16SP supplies Lonza Corp.), lauryl bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyldimethylgamakarboxypropylbetain, lauryl bis- (2-hydroxypropyl) alphacarboxyethyl kokodimethylsulfopropylbetain, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetain, laurylbis- (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine, amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (where the RCONH (CH ₂ ) 3 radical is attached to the betaine nitrogen atom), oleylbetaine (as the amphoteric Velvetex OLB-50 supplied by Henkel) and cocamidopropyl betaine (as the Velvetex BK-35 and BA -35 supplied by Henkel).

Examples of sultaines and hydroxysultaines include materials such as cocpropylhydroxysultain (such as Mirataine CBS supplied by Rhone-Poulenc).

Preferred uses in the present invention are amphoteric surfactants of formula II

OR ²

R ¹ - (C - NH - (CH ₂ ) _m ) - N - R ⁴ -X · (II)

R ³ wherein R ¹ is an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated straight or branched chain alkyl group of 9 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably R @ ¹ has from 11 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12-18 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 18 carbon atoms, m is an integer having the value 1-3, preferably 2-3, more preferably 3, n is either 0, or 1, preferably is 1, R and R are independently selected from the group consisting of alkyl groups having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, unsubstituted or monosubstituted with hydroxy, preferably R and R are CH 3, X is selected from the group consisting of CO ₂ , SO 3 and SO 4 R ⁴ is selected from the group consisting of straight or branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups having from 1 to 5 atoms carbon, unsubstituted or monosubstituted with hydroxy. When X is CO 2, preferably R ⁴ has 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 carbon atom. When X is SO 3 or SO 4, preferably R ⁴ has 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 3 carbon atoms.

Examples of amphoteric surfactants of the present invention include the following compounds.

Cetyl dimethyl betaine (this substance also has the CTFA designation cetyl betaine) of formula III CH ₃

C ₁₆ H ₃₃ -N — CH ₂ -CO ₂ '(III)

CH ₃

Cocamidopropyl betaine of formula IV

O ch ₃

1+

RC-NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N-CH ₂ -CO ₂ (IV) CH ₃ wherein R has 9 to 13 carbon atoms.

Cocamidopropylhydroxysultain of formula V

CH ₃ OH

II 1+ I

RC-NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N-CH ₂ -CH-CH ₂ -SO ₃ '(V) CH ₃ wherein R has 9 to 13 carbon atoms.

Examples of other useful amphoteric surfactants are alkyliminoacetates, and iminodialkanoates and aminoalkanoates of the formulas RN [(CH2) _m CO2M] ₂ and RNH (CH2) _{m CO2} M wherein m is from 1 to 4, R is C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group and M is H, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, an ammonium cation, or an alkanolamine. Also included are imidazoline and ammonium derivatives. Specific examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include sodium 3-dodecylaminopropionate, sodium 3-dodecylaminopropanesulfonate, N-higher alkyllasparic acids as described in U.S. Patent 2,438,091, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, and products sold under the trade name "Miranol" and described in the U.S. Patent No. 2,528,378, the entire disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. Other examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include amphoteric phosphates such as coamidopropyl-PG-dimmonium chloride phosphate (commercially available as Monaquat PTC from Mona Corp.). Also useful are amfoacetates such as disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamfoacetate, and mixtures thereof.

• 9 • 9 9

9 9

9 9

9 9

9 9

Preferred foaming surfactants useful herein are anionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium tridecosulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium laurosulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauroyl laurate, sodium lauroyl sulphate, sodium lauroyl sulphate, and mixtures thereof; nonionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of lauramine oxide, cocoamine oxide, decyl polyglucose, lauryl polyglucose, sucrose cocoate, C12-C14 glucosamides, sucrose laurate, and mixtures thereof; and amphoteric foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of sodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamfoacetate, cetyl dimethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocoamidopropylhydroxysultain, and mixtures thereof.

Foam volume test

The compositions of the present invention comprise an amount of foaming surfactant sufficient to generate more than 30 ml, preferably more than 50 ml, even more preferably more than 75 ml, and most preferably more than 150 ml of the average foam volume. The average foam volume is measured by the assay in the Foam Volume Test. This test provides a consistent measurement of the foam / soap volume generated by the products described herein. The following is a description of the Foam Volume Test Protocol.

1) Wash hands with white soap (Ivory bar) before performing the test. This step removes any dirt that could affect the accuracy of the test.

2) The test product is held open in a non-dominant hand with the corners bent up.

3) 10 ml of water (medium hardness of 8 to 10 grans per gallon at 95 ° C) is added to the test product with a 10cc syringe or Brinkmann replica.

4) Then, foam is generated by rubbing the test product with the dominant hand by circularly moving the palms for 6 seconds (2 rotations per second) using a slight pressure (4 oz) and allowing the product to curl between the palms of the hands.

5) The test article is then held open in a non-dominant hand and an additional 10 ml of water (medium hardness of 8 to 10 grans per gallon at 95 ° C) is added to the test article with a 10cc syringe or Brinkmann replica. The moistened product again made me the dominant hand (3 rotations) using a slight force (4 oz) so that the test product curled between the palms.

6) The test article is then opened and folded 5 times, holding one corner of the article in one hand and rotating the hands holding the other side to activate the next foam.

99 99

9 99 9

9

9

9

7) The test article is then rotated and the procedure of step 6 is repeated with the other hand.

8) Foam is removed by holding the test product in a cup from the hand and wiping the foam from the test product with the other hand, wiping the foam only from the test product. The foam of the test article is placed in a measuring cylinder or cup large enough to accommodate the foam generated therein. This procedure is repeated 5 times with the same test product and the foam from each repeat is placed in the same measuring cylinder or cup. The foam volume is determined as the total foam withdrawn from these repetitions.

9) For consistent results, the average foam volume is determined as the average of three replicates of the test sample in steps 1 to 8.

Active ingredients for skin care

Essentially, the personal care products of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of an active skin care ingredient comprising at least one skin care active selected from the group consisting of water-soluble skin care active ingredients, oil-soluble active ingredients for skin care, pharmaceutically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof. The term "skin care active" herein refers to personal care active ingredients that are beneficial to the skin and / or hair and which are generally not used to achieve a beneficial conditioning effect as defined below. The term "safe and effective amount" herein means the amount of active skin care ingredient sufficient to modify the condition being treated or to provide the skin with the desired beneficial care, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, with a reasonable benefit / risk ratio within health medical opinion. The term "useful skin care" herein means the beneficial therapeutic, prophylactic and / or chronic action associated with the treatment of a given condition with one or more active skin care agents described herein. The safe and effective amount of the active skin care ingredient varies from one skin care active to another, as well as the ability of the active ingredient to penetrate through the skin, the age, health and skin condition of the consumer and other factors. The products of the present invention preferably contain 0.001 to 50 wt. %, more preferably 0.01 to 25 wt. %, even more preferably 0.05 to 10 wt. % and most preferably 0.1 to 5 wt. % of the skin care active ingredient by weight of the water-insoluble substrate.

The skin care active ingredient of the present invention comprises a water-soluble active skin care active ingredient, a water-soluble active skin care active ingredient.

9

9 · ·· »9 · 9 9 ·· ♦

9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9 • 99 99 99 9 9 99 skin, emulsion for skin care or any combination or permutation thereof. The oil-soluble skin care active ingredient is selected from one or more oil-soluble skin care active ingredients such that the arithmetic index of the mean weight solubility in the oil-soluble skin care active ingredient is less than or equal to 10.5. The water-soluble skin care active agent is selected from one or more water-soluble skin care active agents such that the arithmetic index of the mean weight solubility of the water-soluble conditioning agent is greater than 10.5. Based on the mathematical definition of solubility indices, it is known that, for example, it is possible to achieve a desired arithmetic index of mean weight solubility of less than or equal to 10.5 for an oil soluble skin care active containing two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an individual index solubilities greater than 10.5. Conversely, it is possible to achieve a desired arithmetic mean weight solubility index of greater than 10.5 for a water-soluble skin care active containing two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an individual solubility index of less than or equal to 10.5.

Solubility indices are well known to those of skill in the art and are commonly used as guidelines for determining the compatibility and solubility of materials in formulation processes. The solubility index of a chemical compound δ is defined as the square root of the cohesive energy density of the compound. Typically, the solubility index for a compound is calculated from the tabulated values of the additive groups contribution to the heat of evaporation and the molar volume of the components of the compound using the? Ei?

1/2 where Σ, Ej is the sum of the contributions of the additive groups to the heat of evaporation and Σ; m, is the sum of the contributions of the additive groups to the molar volume.

Tabulated standards for additive group contributions to evaporative heat and additive group contributions to molar volume for many different atoms and atomic groups are reported in Barton AFM, Handbook of Solubility Parameters, CRC Press, Chapter 6, Table 3, pp. 64-66 (1985) ), the link is incorporated herein in its entirety. The above relationship for the solubility index is described in Fedors R.F., " A Method for Estimating Both the H "

Solubility Parameters and Molar Volumes of Liquids ", Polymer Engineering and Science,

Volume 14, No. 2, pp. 147-154 (February 1974), the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

The solubility indices follow the law on mixtures, so the solubility index of materials is given by the weighted arithmetic mean (ie average weight) of the solubility indices of the individual components of the mixture. See Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, 57th Edition, CRC Press, pp. C-726 (1976-1977), incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Those skilled in the art typically report and use solubility indices in units (cal / cm). Tabulated values of additive groups contribution to evaporative heat in the Handbook of Solubility Parameters are reported in kJ / mol. These tabulated evaporation heat values are easily converted to cal / mol using the well-known relationship:

J / mol = 0.239006 cal / mol and 1000 J = 1 kJ. See Gordon A.J. et al in The Chemist's Companion, John Wiley & Sons, pp. 456-463 (1972), the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Solubility indices are also tabulated for many different chemical materials. The Handbook of Solubility Parameters cited above lists solubility index tables. See also "Solubility Effects In Product, Package, Penetration, And Preservation", C.D. Vaughan, Cosmetics and Toiletries, Volume 103, October 1988, pp. 47-69, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Using the above-described information, one skilled in the art can determine solubility indices of the active skin care ingredients described below.

The active skin care ingredients useful in the present invention are divided according to therapeutic benefit or established mode of action. However, it is understood that the active ingredients useful in the present invention may in some cases exhibit more than one therapeutic benefit or be effective in more than one way. Therefore, the classifications provided herein are conventional and do not limit the active ingredient to a particular application or applications. Pharmaceutically acceptable salts of these active ingredients are also useful in the present invention. The following active ingredients are useful in the compositions of the present invention.

According to the present invention, many different skin care active ingredients are useful, including those selected from the group consisting of anti-acne active ingredients, anti-wrinkle active ingredients, anti-skin atrophy active ingredients, skin barrier repair aids, soothing cosmetic aids substances, topical anesthetics, agents causing and accelerating artificial browning of the skin, active substances for skin brightening, • 4

4

• antimicrobial and antifungal active agents, sunscreen active agents, sebaceous stimulators, sebaceous inhibitors and mixtures thereof.

Anti-acne active ingredients

Anti-acne active ingredients may be effective in the treatment of acne vulgaris, a chronic disorder of sebaceous hair follicles. This condition leads to inflammation of the pilosebac system and results in lesions that include the buds, pimples, cysts, comedones, and more severe scarring. Corynebacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermis are usually present in the carcass content.

Non-limiting examples of useful anti-acne actives include keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), salicylic acid derivatives such as 5-octanoyl-salicylic acid and 4-methoxysalicylic acid and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and derivatives thereof (eg, cis and trans); D and L sulfur-containing amino acids and their derivatives and salts, especially their N-acetylderivatives, a preferred example is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; lipoic acid; antibiotics and antimicrobial agents such as benzoyl peroxide, octopirox, tetracycline, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, azelaic acid and its derivatives, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, ethyl acetate, clindamycin and meclocycline; sebostatics such as flavonoids and bioflavonoids; bile salts such as monosulphosulphate and derivatives thereof, deoxycholate and cholate; abietic acid; adapalen; allantoin; zaloe extracts; arbietic acid and its salts; ASEBIOL (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques, established in Somerville, N.J.); azalaic acid; barberry extracts; berber extracts; belamcand quinenzis; benzoquinolinones; berberine; BIODERMINE (available from Sederm, based in Brooklyn, NY); bisabolol; S-carboxymethylcysteine; scarot extracts; cassia oil; clove extracts; citral; citronelal; CREMOGEN M82 (available from Dragoco, based in Totowa, NJ); cucumber extracts; dehydroacetic acid and its salts; dehydroeplandersteronsalicylate; dichlorophenylimidazole dioxolane, which is commercially available as COMPLETECH MBAC-OS (from Lipo, Paterson, NJ); DL valine and its esters; DMDM hydantoin; erythromycin; escinol; ethylhexylmonoglyceryl ether; ethyl 2-hydroxyundecanoate; famesol; famesolacetate; geranoil; glabridin; gluconic acid; gluconolactone; glyceryl monocaprate; glycolic acid; grapefruit kernel extract; gugulipid; hesperitin; hinokitol; hop extract; hydrogenated resin; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid; ichthyhol; interleukin 1-alpha antagonists; ketoconazole; lactic acid; lemongrass essential oil; linoleovou «

• 0 • 00 00 • 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 »

000 000 000 0

00 acid; LIPACIDE C8C0 (available from Seppic based in Paris, France); lovastatin; metronidazole; minocycline; mukurossi; nemsed oil; vitamin B3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid); nisin; octopirox; panthenol; 1-pentadecanol; peony extract; peppermint extract; filodendron extract; 2-phenylbenzothiophene derivatives; floretine; PHLOROGINE (available from Secm); phosphatidylcholine; proteolytic enzymes; quercetin; red sandalwood extract; rosemary extract; rutin; sage extract; pinecone extract; siber hegner extract; Siberian saxifrage extract; silicon; sodium lauryl sulfate; sodium sulfacetamide; sorbic acid; sulfur; sunder cotton extract; essential oil of tea tree; tetracycline; tetrahydroabietic acid; thymic extract; thioxolone; tocopherol; trehalos-6-undecylenoate; 3-tridecen-2-ol; tropolone; UNITRIENOL T27 (available from Unichem based in Gouda, The Netherlands); vitamin D3 and its analogs; white thymic oil; wogonin; Ylang Ylang; zinc glycerolate; zinc linolenate; zinc oxide; zinc pyrithione; zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof.

Antimicrobial and antifungal active substances

The antimicrobial and antifungal active substances act preventively against the proliferation and growth of bacteria and fungi. Non-limiting examples of antimicrobial and antifungal active agents include β-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4-trichlorobanethanil, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytertracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, linomycin, methacycline, methacycline, methacycline, erythromycin, erythromycin zinc, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulphate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulphate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, pentidine hydrochloride, pentidine hydrochloride, pentidine hydrochloride, pentidine hydrochloride mycin sulphate, lineomycin hydrochloride, methacycline hydrochloride, methenaminhippurate, methenaminmandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulphate, netilmicin sulphate, paromomycin sulphate, streptomycin sulphate, tobramycin sulphate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride; clotrimazole; allantolactone; isoalantolactone; alkanet extract (alaninine); anise;

φ φ * · · · · · * * * * * * * * * · · · · · · · • • • • · •

ΦΦΦ Φ Φ φφφφ

Nik ΦΦ ΦΦΦ · ·· ΦΦ arnica extract (helenalin acetate and 11,13-dihydrohelenalin); Aspidium extract (florolucinol containing extract); berber extract (berberine chloride); baysweet extract; laurel bark extract (myricitrin); benzalkonium chloride; benzethonium chloride; benzoic acid and its salts; benzoin; benzyl alcohol; thistle; tuber Bletilla; blodrut; essential oil bois de rose; burdock; butylparaben; vat oil; CAE (available from Ajinomoto, based in Teaneck, NJ); kajeputovou essential oil; Cangzhu; caraway oil; Cascarilla bark (sold under the trademark ESSENTIAL OIL); cedar leaf oil; chamomile; chaparal; chlorhexidingluconate; chlorphenesin; chlorxylenol; cinnamon essential oil; citronella essential oil; clove oil; dehydroacetic acid and its salts; essential oil of dill seeds; DOWICIL 200 (available from Dow Chemical, based in Midland, MI); echinecea; elenolic acid; epimedium; ethylparaben; Fo-Ti; galbanum; garden bleeding; GERMALL 115 and GERMALL II (available from ISP-Sutton Labs, Wayne, NJ); essential oil of chamomile; knotvíd huge; GLYDANT (available from Lonza, Flawlawn, NJ); GLYDANT PLUS (available from Lonza); essential oil of grapefruit; hexamidine diisethionate; hinokitiol; copper; honeysuckle; hop; immortelle; iodopropylbutylcarbamide (available from Lonza); isobutylparaben; isopropylparaben; JM ACTICARE (available from Microbial Systems International, based in Nottingham, NG); heifers; KATHON CG (available from Rohm & Haas, based in Philadelphia, PA); labdanum; lavender; lemon balm essential oil; east indian grass; methylparaben; mint; mume; mustard; myrrh; nemsed essential oil; orthophenylphenol; olive leaf; parsley; patchouli; peony root; PHENONIP (available from Nipa Labs, Wilmington, DE); phenoxyethanol; pine needles essential oil; PLANSERVATIVE (available from Campo Research); propylparaben; šruchu; quilair; rhubarb; pink geranium essential oil; rosemary; sage; salicylic acid; sassafras; saturejku; seěuánský libeček; sodium metabisulfite; sodium sulfite; SOPHOLIANCE (available from Soliance, based in Compiegne, France); sorbic acid and its salts; stevia; styrax; tannic acid; tea; Teatree essential oil; thyme; triclosan; triclokarban; tropolone; turpentine; umbelliferone (antifungal); yucca; zinc pyrithione; and mixtures thereof.

Anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy

Anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy are effective in nourishing or rejuvenating the epidermal layer. These active substances generally benefit the skin by promoting or sustaining the natural decamination process. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle and skin atrophy agents include retinoid.

• 4 9 • 99 • 4 9 99

99 99

9999

9 4 9 4

9

Acid and its derivatives (eg cis and trans); retinal; retinol; retinyl esters such as retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate and retinyl propionate; vitamin B3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid); salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (such as 5-octanoylsalicylic acid); D and L sulfur-containing amino acids and derivatives and salts thereof, especially N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols such as ethanethiol; hydroxy acids, such acid, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidylic acid; skin peeling agents (eg, phenol and the like); adapalen; ademethionine; adenosine; aletris extract; aloe-derived lectins; 3-aminopropyldihydrogenphosphate; anise extracts; AOSINE (available from Secm); ASC III (available from E. Merck, based in Darmstadt, Germany); ascorbic acid; ascorbyl palmitate; Asian acid; asiaticosides; ARLAMOL GEO ™ (available from ICI based in Wilmington, DE); azaleic acid; benzoic acid derivatives; bertholet extracts; betulinic acid; BIOCHANIN A and BIOPEPTIDE CL (available from Sederm, Brooklyn, NY); BIOPEPTIDE EL (available from Sederm); blackberry bark extract; blackberry lily extract; black penguin extract; butanoylbetulinic acid; citric acid esters; zchastetree extract; nail extracts; daidzein; debromlaurinterol; 1-decanoyl-glycerophosphonic acid; dehydrocholesterol; dehydrodicreosol; dehydrodieugenol; dehydroepiandersterone; DERMOCLETINE (available from Sederm); dehydroascorbic acid; dehydroepiandersteron sulfate; dianethol; 2,4-dihydrobenzoic acid; diosgenin; disodium ascorbyl phosphate; dodecanedioic acid, estrogen and derivatives thereof; ethocyne; ELESERYL SH (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques, located in Somerville, NJ); ENDONUCLEINE (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques); ergosterol; eythrobioic acid; fennel extract; fenugreek seed extract; FIBRASTIL (available from Sederm); FIBROSTIMULINES S and P (available from Sederm); FIRMOGEN LS 8445 (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques); formononetine; forsythia extract; gallic acid esters; gamma butyric acid; GATULINE RC (available from Gattlefoss based in Priest, France); genistein; genistin; genistic acid; ginkgo bilboa extracts; ginseng extracts; ginsenoside (RO, R ₆ -i, R ₆ -R ₂ , R ₆ -R 3, R c, Rd, R e, R f, R f-2, R g-1, R g-2); glucopyranosyl-1-ascorbate; glutathione and its esters; hexahydrocurcumin; HMG coenzyme A reductase inhibitors; hop extracts; 11-hydroxyundecanoic acid; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid; 25-hydroxycholesterol; kinetin; L-2-OXO-thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid esters; lactate dehydrogenase inhibitors; 1-lauryl;

to ···· • • it • it ·· · ·· it· • it it • • · • • • it it it * · · • • • · • • • • · · 9 • it • • • · «· · ··· it·· this

lysophosphatidylcholine; liquorice extracts; lumisterol; luteolin; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; melatonin; metalloproteinase inhibitors; methopren; methoprenic acid; MPC COMPLEX (available from CLR); N-methylserine; N-methyltaurine; N 1 -bislactylcysteamine; naringenin; neotigogenin; oleanolic acid; fotoanethon; placental extracts; pratensein; pregnenolone; pregnenolone acetate; pregnenolone succinate; premarin; raloxifene; REPAIR FACTOR 1 and REPAIR FACTOR FCP (both available from Sederm); retinoates (esters of C2-C20 alcohols); retinylglucuronate; retinyllinoleate; S-carboxymethylcysteine; SEANAMINE FP (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques); soya extracts; spleen extracts; tachysterol; tazarotene; thymulene; thyme extracts; tigogenin; tocopheryl retinoate; traumatic acid; tricholincitrate; trifoside; ursolic acid; vitamin D3 and its analogs; pit extract; yamogenin; zeatin; and mixtures thereof.

Active substances for repairing the skin barrier

Skin barrier repair active ingredients are those skin care active ingredients that help to repair and supply natural moisture to the skin that performs the barrier function. Non-limiting examples of skin barrier repair agents include brassicasterol; caffeine; campesterol; canola-derived sterols; CERAMAX (available from Quest based in Ashford, England); CERAMIDE 2 and CERAMIDE HO3 ™ (both available from Sederm); CERAMIDE II and CERAMIDE III (both available from Quest); IIIB (available from Cosmoferm, Deft, The Netherlands); CERAMIDE LS 3773 (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques); CERAMINOL (available from Inocosm); cholesterol; cholesterol hydroxy stearate; cholesterol stearate; 7-dehydrocholesterol; DERMATEIN BRC and DERMATEIN GSL (both available from Hormel); ELDEW CL 301 and ELDEW PS 203 (both available from Ajinomoto); glycerylserinamide; lactic acid; lanolin alcohols; lanosterol; Lauric acid N-lauryl glucamide; lipoic acid; N-acetylcysteine; N-acetyl-L-serine; N-methyl-L-serine; vitamin B3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid); palmitic acid; panthenol; panthetin; phosphodiesterase inhibitors; PHYTO / CER (available from Intergen); Ethyl Glycolipid Millet Extract (available from Bamet Products Distributer, Englewood, NJ); PHYTOSPHINGOSINE (available from Gist Brocades, based in King of Prussia, PA); PSENDOFILAGGRIN (available from Brooks Industries, located in South Plainfield, NJ); QUESTAMIDE H (available from Quest); serine; sigmasterol; sitosterol; soybean-derived sterols; sphingosine; S-lactoylglutathione; stearic acid; SUPER STEROL ESTERS (available from Crod); thioctic acid; THSC · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

4 9

CERAMIDE OIL (available from Campo Research); trimethylglycine; tocopheryl nicotinate;

vitamin D ₃ ; Y2 (available from Oceab Pharmaceutical); and mixtures thereof.

Non-steroidal cosmetic soothing active substances

Cosmetic soothing active ingredients are effective in preventing or treating skin inflammations. The soothing active agent improves the skin appearance achieved by the beneficial treatment of the present invention, such agents contribute, for example, to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color. The exact amount of anti-inflammatory agents used in the present compositions depends on the particular anti-inflammatory agent used, as the efficacy of these agents varies. Non-limiting examples of cosmetic soothing agents include the following categories: propionic acid derivatives; acetic acid derivatives; phenamic acid derivatives; biphenylcarboxylic acid derivatives; and oxicams. All of these cosmetic soothing active ingredients are fully described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,985,459, Sunshine et al., issued Jan. 15, 1991, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Non-limiting examples of useful cosmetic soothing active ingredients include acetylsalicylic acid; ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, ketorofen, indoprofen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, thioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen, tiaprofenic acid; fluprofen, bucloxic acid, absinthium, acacia, aescin, alder plantain extract, allantoin, aloe, APT (available from Centerchem), arnica, astragalus, astragal root extract, azulene, baikal, baizhu, canada, canada BIOPHYTEX (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques), bisabolol, black pincushion, black pincushion extract, blue pincushion, blue pincushion extract, boneset, borage oil, essential oil of essential oil, bromelain, marigold, marigold extract, candelilla wax, Cangelilla wax, Cangulol wax, Cangol, Wax capsicum, carboxypeptidase, celery seed, celery stalk extract, CENTAURIUM (available from Sederma), centaury extract, chamazulen, chamomile, chamomile extract, chaparal, chastetree, chastetree extract, chickweed, chicory chicory, chicory extract, chicory extract, chicory extract , collodion oat flour, comfrey, comfrey extract, CROMOIST CM GLUCAN (available from Crod), dehurian angelica, without black, divalent metals (such as magnesium, strontium and manganese), rye, dogwood, eleuthero, ELHIBIN (available from Pentapharm), ENTELINE 2 (available from Secma), ephedra, epimedium, evening primrose, skylight, fangfeng, marguerite, ficin, forsythia fruit, ganoderma, gaoben, gencian, germanium extract, ginkgo bilboa, ginkgo, ginseng extract, vodilka, gorgonian extract, gotu cola, • grapefruit extract, guajica wood , helenalin esters, henna, honeysuckle, apple extract, horse chestnut, horsetail, huzhang, hyperic, ichthiol, immortelle, ipekak, job's tears, jujube, cola extract, LANACHRYS 28 (available from Lana Tech), lemon essential oil, lianqdenek, cinnamon , ligusticum, ligustrum, lovage root, loofah, mace, magnolia flower, cassava extract, margaspidine, matricin, MICRO AT IRC (available from Nurture), mint, mistletoe, musk, oat extract, ratio an, panthenol, papain, peony bark, peony root, purslane root, QUENCH T (available from Centerchem), quilium, sage red, rehmania, rhubarb, rosemary, rosemary acid, royal jelly, routing, sandalwood, sankvi, sarsaparilla, sawpalmetto, SENSILINE (available from Silab), SIEGESBECKIA (available from Sederma), stearylglycyrhetinate, storax, birch essential oil, margarine, marigold, tea extract, thymic extract, tienchi ginseng, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, turmeric boric acid, urol, ursin , hornbeam, xinyi, yarrow, yeast extract, yucca and mixtures thereof.

Agents causing and accelerating artificial browning of the skin

Artificial tanning agents help simulate natural tan by increasing melanin in the skin or causing the appearance of increased melanin in the skin. Non-limiting examples of artificial tanning agents that accelerate skin browning include dihydroxyacetaone; tyrosine; tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate and glucose tyrosinate; acetyltyrosine; phospho-DOPA; brazilin; caffeine; coffee extracts; dihydroxyacetone; DNA fragments; isobutylmethylxanthin; methylxanthin; prostaglandins; tea extracts; theophylline; UNIPERTAN P2002 and UNIPERTAN P27 (both available from Unichem); and mixtures thereof.

Active substances for skin brightening

Active skin brighteners usually reduce the amount of melanin in the skin, or by other mechanisms achieve a similar effect. Skin-brightening active agents suitable for use in the present invention are described in copending patent application Serial No. 08 / 479,935 filed June 7, 1995 by Hillebrand, corresponding to PCT patent application no. 95/07432, filed 6/12/95; and copending patent application Serial No. 08 / 390,152, filed February 24, 1995, Kalia L. Kvalnes, Mitchell A. DeLong, Barton J. Bradbury, Curtis B. Motley, and John D. Carter, corresponding to PCT Patent Application No. U.S. Pat. 95/02809, filed 3/1/95, published 9/8/95; all references are incorporated herein. Non-limiting examples of skin brightening agents useful in the present invention include adapalene, aloe extract, ammonium lactate, anethole derivatives, apple extract, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, azelaic acid , bamboo extract, berber extract, bletilla tuber, bupleurum falcatum extract, carbohydrate extract, butylhydroxyanisole, butylhydroxytoluene, Chuanxiong, Dang-Gui, deoxyarbutin, 1,3-diphenylpropane derivatives, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives,

2- (4-acetoxyphenyl) -1,3-dithane, 2- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -1,3-dithane, elagic acid, escinol, estragole derivatives, FADEOUT (available from Pentapharm), Fangfeng, fennel extract, ganoderma extract , gaoben, GATULINE WHITENING (available from Gattlefoss), genistic acid and its derivatives, glabridin and its derivatives, glucopyranosyl-1-ascorbate, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, green tea extract,

4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3 [2H] -furanone, hydroquinone, 4-hydroxyanisole, and its derivatives, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid derivatives, hydroxycaprylic acid, inositolaskorbate, kojic acid, lactic acid, lemon extract, linoleic acid, ascorbyl phosphate magnesium, MELAWHITE (available from Pentapharm), morus alba extract, mulberry root extract, niacinamide, 5-octanoylsalicylic acid, parsley extract, phellinus linteus extract, pyrogalol derivatives, retinoic acid, retinol, retinylesters (acetate, propionate, palmitate, palmitate) linoleate), 2,4-resorcinol derivatives, 3,5-resorcinol derivatives, rose fruit extract, salicylic acid, Song-Yi extract, 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzyl derivatives, tranexamic acid, vitamin D3 and analogues thereof, and mixtures thereof .

Active sunscreen agents

Also useful in the present invention are sunscreen active agents. Many active sunscreen agents are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445, Haffey et al., issued Feb. 11, 1992; in U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372, Turner et al., issued Dec. 17, 1991; in U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,371, Turner et al., issued Dec. 17, 1991; and Segarin et al., Chapter VIII, p. 189 et seq., Cosmetics Science and Technology, all references are incorporated herein in their entirety. Non-limiting examples of sunscreens useful in the compositions of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinamate,

2-ethylhexyl-N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid,

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthylsalicylate, octylsalicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane,

3-benzylidene camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide and mixtures thereof. Other useful sunscreens are disclosed in U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370 to Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,999,186, Sabatelli et al., issued Mar. 12, 1991; both of these references are incorporated herein in their entirety. Yet other useful sunscreens include aminobenzoic acid (PABA), butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, diethanolamine-p-methoxycinamate, dioxybenzone, ethyldihydroxypropyl (PABA), glycerylaminobenzoate, homomenthylsalicylate, methyl isopropyldibenzoylmethanate, diisopropyldibenzoylmethanate, , octyl methoxycinamate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, red petrolatum, sulisobenzone, triethanolamine salicylate and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred examples of these sunscreens include those selected from the group consisting of an ester

4- N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) ester 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, and mixtures thereof.

The exact amounts of sunscreen used will vary depending upon the sunscreen selected and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF) to be achieved. SPF is a commonly used measure of photo-protection of a sunscreen against redness of the skin. See Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Grease stimulators

The sebaceous stimulators increase sebum production in the sebaceous glands. These skin care active ingredients are especially useful for menopausal women who have a sebum deficiency. Non-limiting examples of sebum-stimulating active ingredients include bryonolic acid, dehydroethanedrosterone (also known as DHEA), orizanol, and mixtures thereof.

Sebaceous inhibitors

Sebaceous inhibitors reduce sebum production in the sebaceous glands. Non-limiting examples of sebum-inhibiting active ingredients include ASEBIOL (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques), BIODERMINE (available from Sederma), COMPLETECH MBAC-OS

(Available from Lipo), cucumber extracts, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, dichlorophenylimidazole dioxolane, niacinamide, floretine, PHLOROGINE (available from Secma),

S-carboxymethylcysteine, thioxolone, tocopherol, UNITRIENOL T27 (available from Unichem) and mixtures thereof.

Preferred examples of active ingredients useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide,

3-hydroxybenzoic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid,

4-hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, niaciamide, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl palmitate, 2-hydroxybutyric acid,

2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azealic acid, arachidonic acid, benzoylperoxide, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, naproxen hydrocortisone, acetominophen, resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, neocynexate, 2-ethylhexsulphate, 2-ethylhexsulphate methoxy cinnamic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, dihydroxyacetone, panthenol, lactic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, allantoin, cholesterol, C10-C30 cholesterol / lanosterol esters, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate and mixtures thereof.

The active skin care ingredient of the present invention may also comprise a skin care emulsion that provides useful skin or hair care. The term " skin care emulsion " is used herein to refer to a combination of a discontinuous phase formed by an aqueous component that is coated with a continuous phase formed by an oil soluble component.

The water-soluble component consists of compounds selected from the group consisting of water, water-soluble skin care active ingredients, water-soluble skin conditioners described below, and mixtures thereof. The oil-soluble component is comprised of compounds selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble skin care active ingredients, the oil-soluble skin conditioners described below, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the skin care emulsion further comprises an emulsifier. The skin care emulsion represents 0.25 to 150 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 100 wt. % and more preferably 1 to 50 wt. % by weight of the water-insoluble substrate.

Although an emulsifier capable of forming a continuous and discontinuous phase emulsion is preferred according to the present invention, it is known in the art of skin care agents that in water

• 9 · 9

9 9 9 • 99 9 · 999 · Soluble skin care active can be coated with an oil-soluble skin care active without emulsifier. When the water-soluble skin care active is coated with an oil-soluble agent and thus protected from flushing during the cleaning process, such composition is within the scope of the present invention.

The discontinuous phase preferably comprises other water-soluble or dispersive materials that do not adversely affect the stability of the skin care emulsion. One such material is a water-soluble electrolyte. The dissolved electrolyte minimizes the tendency of the substances present in the lipid phase to dissolve also in the aqueous phase. Any electrolyte capable of imparting ionic strength to the internal phase is useful. Suitable electrolytes include water-soluble mono-, di- or trivalent inorganic salts such as water-soluble halides, such as alkali and alkaline earth metal chlorides, nitrates and sulfates. Examples of such electrolytes include sodium chloride, calcium chloride, sodium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, and sodium bicarbonate. A typical electrolyte concentration is in the range of 1 to 20% of the discontinuous phase.

Other water-soluble or dispersive substances present in the discontinuous phase include hardeners and viscosity modifying agents. Suitable thickening and viscosity modifying agents include water-soluble polyacrylic and hydrophobically modified polyacrylic resins such as Carbopol and Pemulen, starches such as corn starch, potato starch, tapioca, gums such as guar gum, acacia, cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose, , carboxymethylcellulose and the like. Typical concentrations of these curing agents and viscosity modifying agents are in the range of 0.05 to 0.5% discontinuous phase.

Other water-soluble or dispersive substances present in the discontinuous phase include polycationic polymers that result in steric stabilization at the water-lipid interface and nonionic polymers that also stabilize the water-in-lipid emulsion. Suitable cationic polymers include RETEN 201, KYMENE 557H® and ACCO 7112. Suitable nonionic polymers include polyethylene glycols (PEG) such as CARBOWAX. Typical concentrations of these polycationic and nonionic polymers are in the range of 0.1 to 1.0% discontinuous phase.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention the skin care emulsions comprise an emulsifier capable of forming a discontinuous and continuous phase emulsion. The emulsions of the present invention contain an effective amount of an emulsifier. What is an "effective amount" depends on many factors including the amount of oil-soluble agents, the type of emulsifier used, the amount of impurities present in the emulsifier, and similar factors.

Typically, the emulsifier is 0 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt. % and even more preferably 0.1 to 6 wt. % by weight of the skin care emulsion.

Typical useful emulsifiers of the present invention are oil-soluble or continuous-phase miscible materials, particularly at the melting point of the oil-soluble substance. They also have a relatively low HLB value. Typical HLB values of emulsifiers useful in the present invention are in the range of 1 to 7 and may be mixtures of different emulsifiers. Preferably, the emulsifiers have HLB values in the range of 1.5 to 6, more preferably 2 to 5.

Many different emulsifiers are useful according to the present invention and are selected without limitation from the group consisting of sorbitan esters, glyceryl esters, glyceryl esters, methyl glucosesters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, polymeric emulsifiers and silicone emulsifiers.

Sorbitan esters are useful in the present invention. Sorbitan esters of C16-C22 saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids are preferred. Because of the typical manufacturing process, these sorbitan esters usually contain mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (e.g. SPAN® 80), sorbitan esquioleate (e.g. ARLACEL® 83), sorbitan monoisostearate (eg CRILL® 6, manufactured by Croda), sorbitan stearates (eg SPAN® 60), sorbitan trioleate (eg SPAN® 80) ® 85), sorbitan tristearate (eg SPAN® 65), sorbitan dipalmitates (eg SPAN® 40) and sorbitan isostearate. Particularly preferred emulsifiers used in accordance with the present invention are sorbitan mono-isostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate.

Other suitable emulsifiers used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate and mixtures thereof; polyglyceryl esters of C16-C22 saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids such as polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate, and mixtures thereof; methyl glucose esters, preferably methyl glucose esters of C ₁ -C ₂ saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids such as methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose diisostearate and mixtures thereof; sucrose fatty acid esters, preferably saccharose esters of C12-C22 saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids such as sucrose stearate, saccharostrilaurate, sucrose distearate (eg CRODESTA® F10) and mixtures thereof; hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates such as PEG-7-hydrogenated castor oil; sorbitan ester ethoxylates such as PEG-40-sorbitanperoleate, Polysorbate-80 and mixtures thereof; polymeric emulsifiers such as ethoxylated dodecyl glycol copolymer; and silicone emulsifiers such as laurylmethiconcopolyol, cetyldimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, and mixtures thereof.

In addition to these primary emulsifiers, the compositions of the present invention preferably comprise a co-emulsifier which provides additional stability of the water-lipid emulsion. Suitable co-emulsifiers include, without limitation, phosphatidylcholines and phosphatidylcholine-containing compositions such as lecithins; dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salts with a long C16-C22 chain and dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salts with a short C1-C4 chain such as dilododimethylammonium methyl chloride and dilododimethylammonium methyl sulphate; a long C16-C22 dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salt of a dialkoyl (alkenoyl) -2-hydroxyethyl chain and a short C1-C4 chain dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salt such as dilojo-2-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride; dialiphatic imidazolinium quaternary ammonium salts with a long C16-C22 chain such as methyl-1-oxo-amidoethyl-2-tallowimidazolinium methylsulfate and methyl-1-oleyl-amidoethyl-2-oleyl-imidazolium methylsulfate; dialiphatic benzyl quaternary ammonium salts of short C1-C4 chain and monoaliphatic benzyl quaternary ammonium salts of long C16-C22 chain such as dimethylstearylbenzylammonium chloride and synthetic phospholipids such as stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride (PHOSPHOLIPID PTS from Mona Industries).

Storage promoting agents

The products of the present invention further comprise deposition aids in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.05 to 7 wt. %, more preferably 0.10 to 5 wt. % and most preferably 0.15 to 2% by weight of the water-insoluble substrate. The deposition aid is preferably water soluble. "Water-soluble" means that the deposition aid is water-soluble at a concentration of 0.1% water (distilled or equivalent) at 25 ° C, preferably at a 0.5% concentration, more preferably at a 1.0% concentration. Preferred embodiments of the present invention comprise a deposition aid, especially when using water-soluble skin care active ingredients.

Without being limited by theory, the deposition aid is believed to improve the deposition of water-soluble conditioning agents into the skin or hair during cleansing processes, and also helps to adhere the water-soluble conditioning agents to the skin and hair surface during rinsing. In general, deposition promoters are believed to act in part or entirely by the following mechanisms: electrostatic attraction (mammalian skin has a negative charge); hydrophobic attraction because the skin is more hydrophobic than water; and substances which are dispersed in water in the presence of a surfactant but become water insoluble during rinsing. One or more deposition promoters useful in the present invention are added to the substrate or impregnated into the substrate separately, or in combination with either a surfactant or water-soluble conditioning agents. The deposition promoter can be cationic, nonionic, anionic or zwitterionic, preferably cationic or nonionic, and more preferably cationic. Suitable deposition promoters useful in the present invention are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,588,752, issued November 18, 1997 to Turner et al. No. 5,624,666, issued April 29

1997, Coffindaffer et al., U.S. Pat. No. 5,635,469, issued Jun. 3, 1997 to Fowler et al., U.S. Pat. No. 5,672,576, issued Sep. 30, 1997 to Behrens et al. No. 5,716,920, issued Feb. 10, 1998 to Glenn, Jr. et al. et al. No. 5,720,964, issued Feb. 24

1998, Murray and U.S. Pat. No. 5,714,446, issued Feb. 3, 1998 to Bartz et al., all references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, describes many different deposition promoters useful in the present invention. Non-limiting examples of useful deposition aids include cationic polymers, nonionic polymers, zeolites, kaolins, and mixtures thereof. Cationic polymers are particularly useful deposition promoters in the articles of the present invention because they are believed to be able to associate with a negatively charged skin surface and thus help to maintain various components of the article on the skin surface. It is further believed that cationic polymers form coacervates (water-insoluble complexes) with the anionic surfactant.

The cationic polymers of the present invention have an average molecular weight of at least 5,000, typically at least 10,000 and at most 10,000,000. Preferably, the average molecular weight is in the range of 100,000 to 5,000,000, more preferably in the range of 200,000 to 2,000,000. cationic nitrogen groups such as quaternary ammonium groups or cationic amino groups, or mixtures thereof. Suitable cationic polymers are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,672,576, issued Sep. 30, 1997 to Behrens et al. No. 5,720,964, issued Feb. 24, 1998 to Murray, both references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

·· · * · © © ·

The cationic nitrogen group is generally present as a substituent on a portion of the total monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymers. Thus, the cationic polymer includes copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amino substituted monomer units, and other non-cationic units referred to herein as intermittent monomer units. Such polymers are known in the art and many are found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Edition, Estrin, Crosley and Haynes (The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982).

The cationic charge density is preferably at least 0.3 meq / gram, more preferably at least 0.6 meq / gram, even more preferably at least 1.0 meq / gram, and most preferably at least 1.2 meq / gram. The cationic charge density is generally 4 meq / gram or less, more generally 3.0 meq / gram or less. The cationic charge density of the cationic polymer is determined according to the Kjeldahl method. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density of amino-containing polymers in the final product can vary depending on the pH and the isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should fall within the above limits at the pH expected during use.

Any anions can be used as counterions of the cationic polymers, provided they meet the water solubility criteria. Suitable counterions include halides (e.g., Cl, Br, I or F, preferably Cl, Br or I), sulfate and methyl sulfate. Others are also applicable, the above list is not exhaustive.

As mentioned above, the cationic polymers of the present invention are water dispersible. This does not mean, however, that it must become soluble when the products of the present invention are wetted by me to obtain foam. Preferably, however, these cationic polymers are either dispersible when the products described herein are wetted with me to obtain a foam, or they act on the water-insoluble substrate by a complexed coacervate phase formed of a cationic polymer and an anionic substance. This complex coacervate phase is added to the substrate or impregnated into the substrate independently or in combination with either a foaming surfactant or a water-soluble conditioning agent. Complex coacervates of cationic polymers are formed with anionic surfactants or with anionic polymers, which are preferably added to the compositions herein (eg, sodium polystyrene sulfonate). Complex coacervates are believed to deposit water-soluble conditioning agents more rapidly in the skin or hair. In general, it is preferred that the cationic polymers present in / on the products of the present invention as complex to this coacervate or forming a coacervate phase upon dilution of the foam formed after wetting and grinding the articles. If the cationic polymers are no longer in the form of coacervates in / on the products of the present invention, they preferably form a complex coacervate upon dilution.

The formation of coacervates depends on various criteria such as molecular weight, concentration and ratio of interacting ionic substances, ionic strength (including modification of ionic strength eg by addition of salts), charge density of cationic and anionic substances, pH and temperature. Coacervate systems and the effects of these parameters have been studied before. See, eg, J. Caelles et al., &Quot; Anionic and Cationic Compounds in the Mixed System ", Cosmetics Toiletries, Vol. 106, pp. 49-54, April 1991; Van Oss, " Coacervation, Complex-Coacervation and Flocculation ", J. Dispersion Science and Technology, Vol. 9 (5, 6), pp. 561-573, 1988-89; D.J. Burgess, “Practical Analysis of Complex Coacervate Systems”, J. of Colloid and Interface Science, Vol. 140, No. 1, pp. 227-238, November 1990; and U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 5,716,920 to Glenn Jr. et al., issued Feb. 10, 1998; all references are incorporated herein in their entirety.

Methods for analyzing the formation of complex coacervates are known in the art. For example, in any dilution state, microscopic analysis of the foam can be used to analyze the formation of the coacervate phase. The coacervate phase is identifiable as another emulsified phase. The use of dyes helps to distinguish the coacervate phase from other insoluble phases dispersed in the foam.

The nonionic and cationic polymers useful in the present invention are derived from both natural and synthetic sources. Of the polymers derived from natural sources, polymers derived from cellulose and proteins are very preferred. Of the synthetic polymers, polyethyleneimines and polyacrylamides are preferred. General classes of suitable deposition aids for use in the products of the present invention include gums, hydrophilic colloids and derivatives thereof, biological polymers and derivatives thereof, synthetic polymers, polymeric ethers, proteins and derivatives thereof, quaternary ammonium compounds, coacervates and mixtures thereof. The following are non-limiting examples of cationic and nonionic deposition promoters useful in the present invention.

Useful deposition promoters of the present invention are gums, hydrophilic colloids, biological polymers and proteins, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of such materials include carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxypropylguar, carrageenan, cellulose gum, gelatin, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose,

• 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9

9

999 99 99 99 methylcellulose, xanthan gum, chitin, chitosan, hydroxypropylchitosan, potato starch, oat protein, milk protein, hydrolyzed cocoyl collagen, hydrolyzed cocoyl keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin and mixtures thereof.

Cellulose-derived polymers are also useful deposition promoters of the present invention. The term "cellulose-derived polymers" is used herein to describe polymers containing a cellulosic backbone; polysaccharide backbone from repeating glucose units. In these cellulose-derived polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropyllated) to form hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is further modified with a quaternary ammonium or a protonated ammonium group. Preferred cationic modifying groups have at least one C 10 -C 20 alkyl chain and two shorter alkyl chains (i.e. C 1 or C 2) on the nitrogen. The substituent on the cellulose polymer is - (X) NRR'R ', where X is a hydroxyalkyl group (preferably -OCH 2 CH 2 - or OCH 2 CHOHCH 2 -), R and R are methyl or ethyl and R is a C 10 -C 20 alkyl group (preferably lauryl, a stearyl or cocoyl group, i.e. a mixture of alkyl groups derived from coconut oil). With respect to other alternative structures, it has been shown that when R, R'and R are all methyl groups (i.e. triammonium group), useful cellulose polymers are also obtained. In yet other alternative structures, the cationic substituent on cellulose contains both a hydroxyethyl and a hydroxypropyl group, so that this group can be depicted as - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ O) -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ NRR'R '' where R, R'and R "are methyl or ethyl and R is a C 10 -C 20 alkyl group (preferably a lauryl, stearyl or cocoyl group, i.e. a mixture of alkyl groups derived from coconut oil), or wherein R, R 'and R are all methyl groups (i.e. a triammonium group).

Commercially available cationic modified celluloses include laurdiammonium hydroxyethylcellulose (wherein X in the above formula is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, R and R are methyl groups and R "is a lauryl group), steardiammonium hydroxyethylcellulose (wherein X in the above formula is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ R, R and R are methyl and R is stearyl) and cocodiammonium hydroxyethylcellulose (wherein X in the above formula is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, R and R 'are methyl and R''is a cocoyl group). These three substances are known under the trade names Crodacel QL, Crodacel QS and Crodacel QM and are commercially available from Croda Corp. Another very useful cationic cellulose is laurdiammoniumhydroxypropyloxyethylcellulose (where the modifying group on cellulose is • 4944 4 · 4 »44

4 · 4 4 4 9 · · 4 4 · 4944

44 4 444999

444 4 9 4449

444 44 444 449 44

- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ O) -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ NRR'R, where R and R 'are methyl and R is a lauryl group), which is commercially available from Croda Corp. as CRODACEL QL SPECIAL. Other useful cationic celluloses are available from Amerchol Corp. & (Edison,

N.J., USA) of their polymers series POLYMER JR ™, LR ™ and LK ™, such as trimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxy substituted hydroxyethylcellulose salts, in industry (CTFA) called Polyquaternium 10; the cationic cellulose ethers described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,816,616 and 4,272,515, which are commercially available from Union Carbide Corp. under the trademark POLYMER JR; and polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with lauryldimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, in the industry (CTFA) called Polyquaternium 24, which are commercially available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison,

N.J., USA) under the trademark POLYMER LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polymers useful in the present invention include guar gum derivatives such as the cationic polygalactomannan gum derivative disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,298,494, which is commercially available under the trademark JAGUAR; a hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar gum derivative which is commercially available under the trade names JAGUAR C-13-S and JAGUAR C-17 (CTFA designation guar-hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride); and a hydroxypropyl guar cation derivative known as JAGUAR C-16 (commercially available from Celanese Corp. of their JAGUAR® series). Other materials include nitrogenous cellulose ethers (e.g., described in U.S. Patent No. 3,962,418, reference herein) and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,958,581, reference herein). Particularly preferred cationic polymers include Polyquaternium 10.

Related to these cellulosic polymers are polymers whose backbone is derived from other sugars (or related acids, alcohols, amines, etc.), eg galactose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, fucose, fructose, glucosamine, galactosamine, glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid acids, alcohols with 5- or 6-membered rings and mixtures thereof.

Another type of useful derivative of naturally occurring polymers is protein-derived polymers. Protein-derived polymers useful in the present invention are derived from many different protein sources. However, polymers derived from hydrolysed proteins (i.e. proteins broken down into lower molecular weight segments in the range of MW 1000 to 5000) are preferred. Hydrolysed proteins are well known to those skilled in the art of cosmetic chemistry and are obtained by standard synthetic procedures such as acid, alkaline or enzymatic hydrolysis of various protein sources. The protein sources used determine the final amino acid composition of the hydrolyzed proteins obtained. Non-limiting examples of hydrolyzed proteins useful as polymers of the present invention include protein sources selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed conchiorin protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed fibronectin, hydrolyzed hair keratin, hydrolyzed human placental protein, hydrolyzed keratin, potato protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydrolyzed wool protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, and mixtures thereof. These hydrolyzed proteins are described in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. 1991, pp. 246-249, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

The cationic modified hydrolyzed proteins have been shown to be very advantageous as the polymers of the present invention. Using various synthetic procedures known to those skilled in the art, the nitrogen atoms of amino acids containing these hydrolyzed proteins are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropyllated) to form a hydroxyalkylated protein hydrolyzate, which is further modified with cationic quaternary ammonium or protonated ammonium groups. Preferred cationic modifying groups have at least one C 10 -C 20 alkyl chain and two shorter alkyl chains (i.e. C 1 or C ₂ ) on the nitrogen. The substituent on the hydrolyzed protein is - (X) NRR'R, where X is a hydroxyalkyl group (preferably -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - or OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -), R and R are methyl or ethyl and R is C 10 -C ₂ an alkyl group (preferably a lauryl, stearyl or cocoyl group, i.e. a mixture of alkyl groups derived from coconut oil). With respect to other alternative structures, it has been shown that when R, R'and R are all methyl groups (i.e. triammonium group), useful hydrolyzed proteins are also obtained. Commercially available cationic modified protein hydrolysates include hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed casein, hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed hydroxypropyltriammonium keratin, hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed silk, hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltriammonium protein, hydroxypropyltriammonium protein, hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed protein, hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed protein, of these protein hydrolysates is the X group • W ¥ ¥ · · · · · · · · · Λ Λ Λ ·

• 1

OCH 2 CHOHCH 2 - and R, R 'and R are methyl groups. These hydrolyzed proteins are described in CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 1991, pp. 254-255, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Other commercially available cationic protein hydrolysates include lauryldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolysed collagen lauryldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed keratin lauryldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituované hydrolyzed silk, lauryldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed soy protein, stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed casein, stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolysed collagen stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed keratin stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituované hydrolyzed silk, stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed hydrolyzed Hydrolyzed Vegetable protein, wheat protein, stearyldiammoniumhydroxypropylsubstituted cocodiammoniumhydroxypropylsubstituted casein, stearyldiammoniumhydroxypropylsubstituted hydrolyzed collagen, stea ryldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed rice protein stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný, stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituované hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed soy protein stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný, stearyldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed wheat protein, wherein in the substituent, ~ (X) NRR'R on each of these protein hydrolyzates OCH2CHOHCH2a X is a group R and R 'are methyl and R is a lauryl or stearic or cocoyl group. These hydrolyzed proteins are described in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 1991, pp. 112-213, 293-294 and 586, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Of these cationic hydrolyzed proteins, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed collagen, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed silk, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted their collagen, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted their collagen, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted silane are preferred.

Polymer ethers are also useful as the deposition promoters of the present invention when the number of repeat units is greater than 50. These are also known as polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols (referred to as PEG and PPG in CTFA, respectively). Non-limiting examples of such agents include PEG 25M, PEG 75, PEG 90, PEG 100, PEG 2M, PEG 7M, PEG 14M, and mixtures thereof.

Synthetic polymers and copolymers are also useful as the deposition promoters of the present invention. Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers with cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water-soluble embedded monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl methacrylate, vinyl methacrylate, vinyl methacrylate and vinyl methacrylate. The alkyl- and dialkyl-substituted monomers preferably have C 1 -C 7 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups. Other suitable intermediate monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (prepared by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

Cationic amines are primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending on the substance and the pH of the shampoo. In general, secondary and tertiary amines are preferred, especially tertiary amines.

The amino-substituted vinyl monomers are polymerized in the amine form and are preferably converted to the ammonium derivatives by a quaternization reaction. Similarly, amines are subsequently quaternized after polymer formation. For example, a tertiary amine function is quaternized by reaction with a salt of formula R'X, wherein R 'is a short chain alkyl group, preferably a C 1 -C 7 alkyl group, more preferably a C 1 -C 3 alkyl group, and X is an anion forming a water soluble salt with quaternized an ammonium derivative.

Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl, monoalkylaminoalkylakrylátem, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl trialkylmethakryloxyalkylamoniovou salt, trialkyl salts, quaternary diallyl salts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternary pyrrolidone, e.g. alkylvinyl imidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 and C ₂ alkyl groups.

Suitable amino substituted vinyl monomers useful in the present invention include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkylacrylamide and dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C 1 -C 7 hydrocarbon groups, more preferably C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups.

• · 4 · 4 1 »· · <

• · · ·

The cationic polymers of the present invention may comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine and / or quaternary ammonium substituted monomers and / or compatible intervening monomers.

Suitable synthetic cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salts (eg, chloride; in the CTFA industry, "Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Assotiation", called Polyquatemium-16), such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, N.J., USA) under the trademark LUVIQUAT (eg LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (in the CTFA industry called Polyquatemium-11), such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,080,310 and commercially available from ISP Corporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) under the trademark GAFQUAT (eg, GAFQUAT 755 and 755N); cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium polymers including, for example, dimethyladiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, in the CTFA industry called Polyquatemium 6 and Poles quatemium 7, respectively; homo- and copolymers of aminoalkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms in the form of salts of mineral acids as described in U.S. Patent No. 4,009,256; a graft cationic copolymer comprising N-vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and polyethylene glycol disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,048,301; the etherified starch polymers described in U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 3,186,911; cationic polyacrylamides of the type described in British Patent Application 94031565.4; high molecular weight cationic polymers referred to in CTFA as Quatemium-40 (a high charge cationic dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer); and

Quatemium-41 (a high-charge cationic polymer prepared from dimethylallylammonium chloride and acrylamide), which are commercially available under the trade names MERQUAT 100 and MERQUAT 550 from Merck & Com., Inc .; and mixtures thereof. Other non-limiting examples of suitable synthetic polymers include acrylic / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crospolymer, acrylic copolymer, acrylate / PVP copolymer, acrylate / VA copolymer, butylated polyoxymethylene urea, butylated PVP, carbomer, hydroxyethyl PEI1000, methyl methacrylate crospolymer, PEI-1000, PEI-1000, PEI-1000, , PEI-2500, polybutene, polyacrylamide, polyacrylic acid, polyethylene, polyisobutene, polymethyl methacrylate, polystyrene, polyvinyl alcohol, PVP, PVP / Eikosen copolymer, PVP / VA copolymer, copolymer • · · · · ··· ··· ·· ··· Sodium acrylates, sodium carbomer, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, styrene / PVP copolymer, TEA carbomer and mixtures thereof.

Other polymers. Other useful polymers include polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as those containing vinyl acetate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and their quaternary methylsulfate derivatives, and polymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol and vinyl acetate. Another very useful polymer is the protonated form of polyethyleneimine. Polyethyleneimine is a polymer produced by polymerizing ethyleneimine. Preferred protonated polyethyleneimine polymers of the present invention have a molecular weight in the range of 500,000 to 750,000, branched such that the ratio of primary, secondary and tertiary nitrogen atoms is 1: 2: 1, one tertiary nitrogen atom being on average 3 to 3.5 atoms, the charge density is 20 milliequivalents per gram at pH 4.5, density 1070 kg / m ^3, and viscosity 17,000 to 28,000 millipascals. The protonated polyethyleneimine polymer corresponding to this describes commercially available as POLYMIN P from BASF Corp.

Also useful as the deposition promoters of the present invention are cationic surfactants (non-polymeric), provided that they are selected so as not to interfere with the overall foaming properties of the desired foaming surfactants. The cationic surfactants useful in the present invention comprise amine or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic groups which are positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention. Useful cationic surfactants are disclosed in the following documents, all references being incorporated herein: M.C. Publishing Co., McCutcheon ' s Detergents & Emulsifiers, North American edition 1979; Schwartz et al., Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology, New York, Interscience Publishers 1949; U.S. Pat. No. 3,155,591, Hilfer, issued Nov. 3, 1964; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 3,929,678 to Laughlin et al., issued Dec. 30, 1975; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 3,959,461 to Bailey et al., issued May 25, 1976; U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055, Nachtigal et al., issued Jun. 23, 1981; U.S. Pat. No. 4,387,090, Bolich Jr., issued June 7, 1983; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 4,704,272 to Oh et al., issued Nov. 3, 1987; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 5,034,218 to Duvel, issued Jul. 23, 1991; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 5,393,452 to Raleigh et al., issued September 14, 1993; U.S. Pat. No. 5,672,576, Behrens et al., issued Sep. 30, 1997; U.S. Pat. No. 5,714,446, Bartz et al., issued Feb. 3, 1998.

Useful according to the present invention are quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of the general formula VI.

9 · · ·

9 9 · 9 9

X '(VI)

R, _x / ^R 3 N

R ₂ R 4 wherein R 1 to R 4 are independently hydrogen, C 1 -C 22 aliphatic, aromatic, aryl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamino, hydroxyalkyl or C 1 -C 22 alkylaryl; and X is the anion of a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, alkyl sulfate radical (e.g., methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate), tosylate, lactate, citrate, and glycolate anion. Aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages and other substituent groups such as hydroxy or amino (e.g., alkyl groups include polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol groups). Long-chain aliphatic groups such as 12 or more carbon atoms are saturated or unsaturated.

More preferably, R 1 is C 12 -C 18 alkyl; R ₂ is H or an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms; R 3 and R 4 are independently H or an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms; X is described in the previous paragraph.

Most preferably, R 1 is a C 12 -C 18 alkyl group; R _2j R3 and R4 are H or alkyl having 1-3 carbon atoms; X is described in the previous paragraph.

Other useful cationic surfactants include aminoamides wherein, in the above formula, R 1 is R 5 CO- (CH ₂ ) _n -, wherein R 5 is an alkyl group of 12 to 22 carbon atoms and _n is an integer of 2 to 6, more preferably 2 to 4 and most preferably 2 Non-limiting examples of such cationic emulsifiers include stearamidopropyl-PG-diammonium chloride phosphate, stearamidopropylethyldiammonium sulfate, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethyl chloride dimethyl stearamidopropyldimethylamide.

Nonlimiting examples of quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactants are selected from the group consisting cetylamoniumchlorid, cetylamoniumbromid, laurylamoníumchlorid, laurylamoniumbromid, stearyl, stearylamoniumbromid, cetyldimethylamoniumchlorid, cetyl dimethyl ammonium, dicetyl lauryldimethylamoniumbromid, stearyldimethylamoniumchlorid, stearyldimethylamoniumbromid, • ·

cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauryl, laurylatrimethylamoniumbromid, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyl, dicetyl stearyldimethylcetyldilojodimethylamoniumchlorid, dicetylamoniumchlorid, dicetylamoniumbromid, dilauryl, dilauryl, distearylamoniumchlorid, distearylamoniumbromid, dicetylmethylamoniumchlorid, dicetylmethylamoniumbromid, dilaurylmethylamoniumchlorid, dilauryl, distearyl, distearyl, and mixtures thereof. Other quaternary ammonium salts include those wherein the C 11 -C 22 alkyl carbon chain is derived from a tallow fatty acid or a coconut fatty acid. The term "tallow" refers to an alkyl group derived from tallow fatty acids (mostly hydrogenated tallow fatty acids), which typically have mixtures of C16-C18 alkyl chains. The term "coconut" refers to an alkyl group derived from a coconut fatty acid, which typically has mixtures of C 12 -C 14 alkyl chains. Examples of quaternary ammonium salts of tallow and coconut origin include diodomethyl ammonium chloride, diiodomethyl ammonium chloride, diiodomethyl ammonium chloride, diiodomethyl ammonium chloride, diiodomethyl ammonium monosodium, diomethyl ammonium sulfonate, diiodomethyl ammonium ammonium ammonium chloride, diomethyl ammonium ammonium monosodium, , coconut ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl-PG-diammonium chloride phosphate, stearamidopropylethyldiammonium sulfosate, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethylearmonium ammonium chloride.

Preferred cationic surfactants useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of dilauryldimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dimyristyldimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityldimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred cationic polymers useful herein are selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, lauryldiamoniumhydroxypropyloxyethylcelulózu, laurdiamoniumhydroxyethylcelulózu, steardiamoniumhydroxyethylcelulózu, kokodiamoniumhydroxyethylcelulózu, hydroxypropylsubstituovanou hydrolyzed cellulose laurdiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed keratin lauryldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed keratin lauryldiamonium • · hydroxypropylsubstituované hydrolyzed silk, lauryldiamoniumhydroxypropylsubstituovaný hydrolyzed soy protein, protonated polyethylenimine Polyquaternium 10 and mixtures thereof. More preferred are lauryldiammoniumhydroxypropylsubstituted hydrolyzed collagen, laurdiammoniumhydroxypropyloxyethylcellulose and mixtures thereof. The deposition promoters are preferably selected from the group consisting of hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers and cationic guar derivatives. Particularly preferred deposition aids are JAGUAR C13S with a positive charge density of 0.8 meq / g. Other particularly preferred materials are JAGUAR C15, JAGUARC17, JAGUAR C16, JAGUAR 062, Polyquaternium 10, and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is Polyquaternium 10 (eg, POLYMER JR400 and POLYMER JR30M).

Preferred nonionic polymers useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, guar gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, PEG 14M, and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is PEG 14M and hydrolyzed casein.

Weight ratios and weight percentages.

In the present invention, the weight ratio of foaming surfactant to skin care active is in the range of 1000: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 800: 1 to 2: 1, and most preferably 500: 1 to 3: 1.

Other ingredients.

The products of the present invention may contain many different preferred ingredients. Some of these ingredients are listed below. Particularly useful are the various active ingredients which usefully act with a variety of conditioning benefits during washing. The product containing these compositions is also useful for providing conditioning ingredients to the skin or hair.

Conditioner component

The product of the present invention preferably comprises a conditioning component which, while in use, acts on the skin or hair for conditioning benefit. "Condicemia benefit" is used herein to refer to the ability of a substance (eg, a compound or composition) as part or whole to improve the appearance and / or sensation of mammalian skin upon / after topical application (eg, after flushing and fluff drying) through one or more of the following mechanisms: moisturizing, hydrating, softening, lubricating and occlusion. Non-limiting examples of materials acting through these mechanisms are described in CTFA Cosmetic φφφ · φ

• φ φ

Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, reference is incorporated herein in its entirety. The products of the present invention contain 0.05 to 99 wt. % of a conditioning component, preferably 0.1 to 50 wt. % and more preferably 1 to 25 wt. % by weight of the water-insoluble substrate.

The conditioner component of the present invention comprises: a water-soluble conditioner; an oil-soluble conditioning agent; conditioner emulsion; or any combination or permutation of the three components. Conditioner emulsions means that the conditioners are present in the skin care emulsions described above, e.g. either in a water-soluble discontinuous phase or in an oil-insoluble continuous phase. The oil soluble conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of one or more oil soluble conditioning agents such that the arithmetic index of the mean weight solubility of the oil soluble conditioning agent is less than or equal to 10.5. The water-soluble conditioning agent is selected from one or more of the water-soluble conditioning agents so that the arithmetic index of the mean weight solubility of the water-soluble conditioning agent is greater than 10.5. Based on this mathematical definition of solubility indices, it is known that, for example, it is possible to achieve a desired arithmetic index of mean weight solubility of less than or equal to 10.5 for an oil soluble conditioner containing two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an individual solubility index greater than 10.5. Conversely, it is possible to achieve a desired arithmetic index of mean weight solubility of greater than 10.5 for a water-soluble conditioner containing two or more compounds when one of the compounds has an individual solubility index of less than or equal to 10.5. The solubility indices of the conditioning agents are determined as described above in the Skin Care Active Ingredients section.

Non-limiting examples of conditioning agents useful as oil-soluble conditioning agents are selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, petrolatum, branched chain C7-C40 hydrocarbons, C1-C30 carboxylic acid alcohol esters, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, monoglycerides C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C30 carboxylic acid diglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid triglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid ethylene glycol monoesters, C1-C30 carboxylic acid ethylene glycol monoesters, C1-C30 carboxylic acid propylene glycol monoesters, C1-C30 propylene glycol carboxylic esters and polyesters of C 1 -C 30 carboxylic acids, polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes,

C 3 -C 9 cylcomethicones, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils, propylene glycol C ₄ -C ₂₀ alkyl ethers, di-C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

Mineral oil, also known as liquid petrolatum, is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. See The Merck Index, tenth edition, paragraph 7048, p. 1033 (1983) and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, fifth edition, volume 1, p. 415-417 (1993), the references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

Also known as petrolatum, petrolatum is a colloidal system of branched chain solid hydrocarbons and high boiling liquid hydrocarbons in which most liquid hydrocarbons are enclosed within micelles. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, paragraph 7047, p. 1033 (1983); Dr. Schindler, Drug Cosmet. Indian. 89, 36-37, 76, 78-80, 82 (1961); and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, Volume 1, p. 537 (1993), the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Useful according to the present invention are straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having 7 to 40 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these hydrocarbon materials include dodecane, isododecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, docosane (i.e., C22 hydrocarbon), hexadecane, isohexadecane (commercially available hydrocarbon sold as Permethyl® 101A from Presperse, South Plainfield, NJ). Also useful are C7-C40 isoparaffins, which are C7-C40 branched hydrocarbons.

Also useful are C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, including straight and branched chain substances and aromatic derivatives. Also useful are esters such as monoglycerides C1-C30 carboxylic acids, diglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, triglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylenglykolmonoestery C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylenglykoldiestery _Ci-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol C1-C30 carboxylic acids, and propylene glycol C 1 -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids. Including straight-chain, branched-chain carboxylic acids and arylcarboxylic acids. Also useful are propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives thereof. Nonlimiting examples include diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, myristyl propionate, ethylene glycol distearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate, cetyl stearate, behenyl behenrate, dioctylmaleate, dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl, caprylic / caproic, PEG-6 acid triglyceride 9

9 · · · · · · ···

• 9999 9 9 9 · • · 9 9 9 · 9 9 9 · 9 · 99 · • 9

Caprylic / caproic, PEG-8 capric acid / caproic triglyceride, cetylricinoleate, cholesterol hydroxy stearate, cholesterol stearate and mixtures thereof.

Various C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of glycerin and related substances are also useful. These esters are derived from glycerin and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the composition of the acid and glycerin, these esters are either liquid or solid at room temperature. Non-limiting examples of solid esters include glyceyltribehenate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl distearate and glyceryl dipalmitate.

Various C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related substances are also useful. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the acid and sugar composition, these esters are either liquid or solid at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include glucostetraoleate, glucostetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids, mixed soybean oil fatty acid mannose tetraesters, oleic acid galactostetraesters, linoleic arabinostetraesters, xylostetralinoleate, galactospentaoleate sorbitol acetate, sorbitol acetate saccharospentaoleate, saccharoshexaoleate, saccharosheptaoleate, saccharosoctaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester groups are palmitoleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1: 2; rhaphose octaester, wherein the carboxylic ester groups are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3; maltose heptaester, wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid groups are sunflower oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a molar ratio of 3: 4; sucrose octaester, wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid groups are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2: 6; and an octaester of sucrose in which the esterifying carboxylic acid groups are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4. A preferred solid is sucrose polyester having a degree of esterification of 7 to 8, wherein the fatty acids are mono- and / or di-unsaturated and behenic in a molar ratio of unsaturated acids and behenic acid in the range of 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred solid sugar ester is the octaester of sucrose with 7 behenic fatty acids and 1 oleic acid per molecule. Other substances include sucrose fatty acid esters of cottonseed oil and soybean oil. Esters are further described in U.S. Pat. patent. No. 2,831,854, U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,196, Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977; U.S. Pat. patent. No. 4,005,195, Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977; U.S. Pat. patent.

98 9 • ·· ·· ··

9 ·

9 ·

9 · · · ·

99

5,306,516, Letton et al., Issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,515, Letton et al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,305,514, Letton et al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 4,797,300, Jandacek et al., issued Jan. 10, 1989; U.S. Pat. No. 3,963,699, Rizzi et al., issued June 15, 1976; U.S. Pat. No. 4,518,772, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,517,360, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; all references are incorporated herein in their entirety.

Non-volatile silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and polyalkarylsiloxanes are also useful oils. These silicones are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, Orr, issued December 3, 1991, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Polyalkylsiloxanes have the general chemical formula R 3 SiO [R 2 SiO] _x SiR 3, where R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to 500, selected to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, also known as dimethicones, non-limiting examples of which include the VICASIL® series sold by General Eletric Company and the DOW CORNING® 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Specific examples of polydimethylsiloxanes useful according to the present invention include DOW CORNING® 225 liquid with a viscosity of 10 centistokes and a boiling point above 200 ° C, and liquid DOW CORNING® 200 with a viscosity of 50 and 350 and 12,500 centistokes, respectively, and a boiling point above 200 ° C. Also useful are trimethylsiloxysilicates, a polymeric substance of the general chemical formula [(CH 2) ₃ SiO _1/2 ] _x [SiO 2] _y , where x is an integer from 1 to 500 and y is an integer from 1 to 500. Commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold in admixture with dimethicone such as liquid DOW CORNING® 593. Also useful in the present invention are dimethiconols, which are hydroxyterminated dimethylsilicones. These materials have the general chemical formula R3 SiO [R2 SiO] _x SiR2OH and HOR ₂ SiO [R2 SiO] _x SiR2OH wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to 500, chosen to obtain the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (eg, liquid DOW CORNING® 1401, 1402 and 1403). Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are also useful in the present invention, polymethylphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity of 15 to 65 centistokes at 25 ° C are preferred. These substances are available, for example, as SF 1075 METHYLPHENYL FLUID (sold by General Eletric Company) and φ φ φ φ φ φ φ

ΦΦ

556 COSMETIC GRADE PHENYL TRIMETHICONE FLUID (sold by Dow Corning H)

Corporation).

Also useful in the present invention are vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, hydrogenated safflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil and mixtures thereof.

Also useful are C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, C1-C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and di-C8-C10 alkyl ethers. Non-limiting examples of such agents include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyloctyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

Other useful oil-soluble conditioners include CREMEROL (available from Amerchol), ELDEW CL301 (available from Ajinomoto), MODULAN (acetylated lanolin commercially available from Croda), OHLAN (hydroxylated lanolin commercially available from Amerchol), phytanetriol, supersterol esters such as C1 -C30 cholesterol / lanosterol esters (available from Croda) and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of conditioning agents useful as water-soluble conditioning agents are selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, polypropylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated C ₃ -C 6 diols and triols, alpha-hydroxy C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated sugars, polyacrylic acid copolymers, sugars of 1 to 2 carbon atoms, sugar alcohols of up to 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples of water-soluble conditioning agents include urea; guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolate salts (eg, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); lactic acid and lactate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); sucrose, fructose, glucose, eruthrosis, erythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, glycerol, hexanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and the like; polyethylene glycols such as PEG-2, PEG-3,

PEG-4, PEG-5, PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-15, PEG-30, PEG-50, polypropylene glycols such as PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15 PPG-17; PPG-20; PPG-26; PPG-30; PPG-34; alkoxylated glucose; hyaluronic acid; and mixtures thereof. Useful substances are also aloe vera in any form (eg, aloe vera gel), chitin, starch grafted sodium polyacrylates such as SANWET (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 (available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmouth, VA) ); monoethanolaminlactamide; monoethanolamine acetamide; and mixtures thereof. Also useful are the propoxylated glycerols described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,976,953, Orr et al., issued Dec. 11, 1990, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Other useful water-soluble conditioning agents include arginine, arginine aspartate (available from Ajinomoto), ARGININE PCA (available from Argidone-UCIB),

1,3-butylene glycol, CHITOLAM NB / 101 (available from Lamberti), chitosan salts, COLLAGEN AMINO ACID ((available from Crotein CAA-Croda), creatine, dextran, dextrin, diglycerol, dipropylanglycol, erythritol, FUCOGEL (available from Solabia) , fructose, glucamine salts, glucosglutamate, (commercially available as WICKENOL 545 from Caschem), glucuronic acid salts, glutamic acid salts, glycereth 12, glycereth 20, glycereth 7, glycerin, glyceryl PCA, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey, hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides, hydroxyproline, inositol, keratin amino acids (commercially available as CROTEIN HKP from Croda), LYSINA PLA (commercially available as LYSIDONE from UCIB), maltitol, maltose, mannitol, mannose, methoxymethylgluceth 10 (commercially available as GLUC10 from EUC10) Amerchol), methylgluceth 20 (commercially available as GLUCAM E20 from Amerchol), methylglucose,

3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, N-acetylglucosamine salts, panthenol, butanediol, pentaerythritol,

1,2-pentanediol, polyglycerol, sorbitol, PPG 1 glyceryl ether, proline, propylene glycol,

2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and its salts, sugar isomerates (commercially available as PENTAVITIN from Pentapharm), serine, silk amino acids (commercially available as CROSLIK LIQUID from Croda), sodium acetylhyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyaspartate (commercially available as AQUADE) SPA-30 from Ajinomoto), sodium polyglutamate (commercially available as AJICOAT SPG from Ajinomoto), sorbeth 20, sorbeth 6, sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethyolpropane, tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts, xylitol, xylose and mixtures thereof.

Hardness value ¥ · · ¥ ¥ ¥ 1 ¥ · <

¥ ¥ 4 »» ¥ <

¥¥ ¥¥

In an embodiment comprising a conditioning component comprising an oil-soluble conditioning agent, the active skin care component preferably has a minimum hardness value of 0.02 kg. The hardness value is the physically measured hardness of the combination of all ingredients (eg, water-soluble skin care active ingredients, oil-soluble skin care active ingredients, and conditioning agents) within the skin care active ingredient. It is believed that an increase in the hardness value leads to an increase in the consistency of the deposition of the skin care active and conditioning agents regardless of the variable foaming methods used by the user. It is believed that increasing the hardness of the skin care active ingredient results in reduced transfer within the substrate as well as a decrease in emulsification of the skin care active ingredient by the surfactants during foaming. As a result, a greater amount of skin care active ingredient is available for mechanical transfer upon skin or hair contact.

The skin care active ingredient of the present invention has a hardness value greater than 0.02 kg, preferably greater than 0.05 kg, and more preferably greater than 0.10 kg. Preferably, the hardness value of the skin care active does not exceed 5.00 kg, more preferably 4.00 kg and most preferably 3.00, as the hardness above this limit adversely affects the deposition of the skin care active ingredient in the skin or hair.

Hardness test

The hardness value is measured by a commonly used soap bar hardness test. Hardness value 5 to 8 oz. a sample of the skin care active ingredient is measured using a Chatillon load cell. To obtain an average value, several readings are made, each with a fresh sample. The Chatillon Dynamometer Model DFIS100 is manufactured by Chatillon Corporation, located in Greensboro, North Carolina.

Substances used to increase the hardness value

The cleaning products of the present invention may comprise a hardener used in combination with an active skin care composition comprising the above-described skin care active ingredient. Many substances can be used simultaneously as a conditioning agent and a lipid hardener. Any of the solid conditioner described above is useful as a hardening agent. The amount of hardener required to achieve a minimum hardness value of 0.02 kg is dependent upon the material used and is readily determined by one of ordinary skill in the art. The hardener is used alone or in combination of hardeners and has a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 99.9 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 75 wt. %, more preferably 1 to 50 wt. % and even more preferably 2 to 25 wt. % by weight of the active ingredient for skin care.

• » > © • • t • · • · • • »· • • · · * • ft ·· · ©

· © · · · · · • ·

The term "hardening agents" is used herein to denote substances having a melting point greater than 30 ° C, preferably greater than 30 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 37 to 100 ° C, and even more preferably 37 to 80 ° C.

Any substance can be used to increase the hardness of the skin care active ingredient, provided that it meets the following criteria: (i) the substance must be soluble in the skin care active ingredient of the skin care active ingredient, and (ii) the substances must have a melting point of more than 20 ° C (eg it must be in solid form at room temperature). Non-limiting examples of suitable hardeners include petrolatum, high branching hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils, polypropylene glycols, alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, C 10 -C 40 fatty acids, double- and / or alkyl amides carboxylic acids, N-acylamino acid derivatives and mixtures thereof. Curing agents useful in the present invention are further described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,919,934 to Deckner et al

On April 24, 1990, the reference is incorporated herein in its entirety.

Suitable high degree of branching hydrocarbons useful in the present invention include hydrocarbon compounds having 17 to 40 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such hydrocarbon compounds include squalane, cholesterol, lanolin, docosane (i.e., hydrocarbon C22) and isoparaffins.

Suitable fatty alcohols useful in the present invention include monohydric alcohols, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol esters, with the exception of the ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol esters used as emulsifiers of the present invention. Non-limiting specific examples of commercially available fatty alcohols include UNILIN 550, UNILIN 700, UNILIN 425, UNILIN 400, UNILIN 350 and UNILIN 325, all supplied by Petrolite. Suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, UNITHOX 325, UNITHOX 400, UNITHOX 450, UNITHOX 480, UNITHOX 520, UNITHOX 550, UNITHOX 720 and UNITHOX 750, all supplied by Petrolite. Non-limiting examples of suitable fatty alcohol esters include tri-isostearyl citrate, ethylene glycol di-12-hydroxystearate, tristearyl citrate, stearyl octanoate, stearyl heptanoate, trilauryl citrate.

Suitable fatty acid esters useful in the present invention include wax esters, monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of suitable wax esters include stearyl stearate, stearyl behenate, palmityl stearate, stearyloctyl dodecanol, cetyl esters, cetearyl behenate, behenyl behenate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate and beeswax. Examples of commercial ester waxes include waxes

KESTER by Koster Keunen, CRODAMOL SS by Croda and DEMALCARE SPS by Rhone

Poulenc.

Also useful as hardening agents are vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils which are solid or semi-solid at room temperature of 20-25 ° C. Examples of suitable vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include butterfat, chicken fat, goose fat, horse fat, lard, rabbit fat, sardine oil, tallow (beef), tallow (mutton), Chinese vegetable tallow, babasu oil , cocoa butter, coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, hydrogenated safflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable alpha-hydroxy fatty acids and C 10 -C 40 fatty acids include 12-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxylauric acid, 16-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, stearic acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable fatty acids are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,429,816, Hofrichter et al., issued July 4, 1995; No. 5,552,136, Motley, issued May

On September 3, 1996, descriptions are incorporated herein by reference.

Suitable alkylamides of di- and / or tribasic carboxylic acids useful in the present invention include disubstituted or branched monoamides, monosubstituted or branched diamides, triamides, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting specific examples of certain alkyl and dibasic carboxylic acid alkyl amides include the alkyl amides of citric acid, tricarballylic acid, aconitic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, and itaconic acids such as 1,2,3-propantributylamide, 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propantributylamide 1-propene-1,2,3-trioctylamide, N, N ', N' - tri (methyldecylamide) amine, 2-dodecyl-Ν, Ν'-dibutylsuccinamide and mixtures thereof. Other suitable N-acylamino acid derivatives are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,429,816, Hofrichter et al., issued July 4, 1995.

• »· ·

Waxes having an HLB value of 1 to 10, preferably 6 and most preferably 5 are also suitable for use in the present invention. The HLB (hydrophile-lipophile balance) system is fully described with the HLB values for the various substances in the The Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection, published by ICI Americas Inc., Wilmington, Del., 1984, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Useful waxes include C10-C40 fatty acids, diesters of C10-C40 fatty acids, wherein the alcohol is propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyglycerin or glycerin, triglycerides or diglycerides of C10-C40 fatty acids, pentaerythritol tri- or tetraesters of C10-C40 fatty acids. , sorbitan triesters of C10C40 fatty acids, sucrose polyesters of C10-C40 fatty acids with 3 to 8 moles of substitution, myristyl myristate, paraffin, synthetic waxes such as Fischer-Tropsche waxes, microcrystalline waxes, castor wax, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, behenylbehenate and myenylbehenate mixtures.

Useful diester waxes include SYNCHROWAX ERL-C (C18-C36 acid glycol ester, available from Croda) and propylene glycol diester wax including ethylene glycol distearate and glycol distearate. Useful triglyceride waxes include shea fat, cocoa butter, SYNCHROWAX HGL-C (triglyceride C, ₈ -C ₃ 6 acids), SYNCHROWAX HRC (tribehenin), SYNCHROWAX HRS-C (tribehenin / a / calcium behenate), all available from Croda Inc , tristearin, trimyristate and fully hydrogenated vegetable oils and mixtures thereof. A mixture of diester and triglyceride waxes in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 1, more preferably 4: 1 to 1: 1 is preferred.

Waxes useful in the compositions of the present invention are disclosed in the following publications, all references being incorporated herein in their entirety: U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 5,219,558 to Woodin Jr. et al., issued June 15, 1993; U.S. Pat. No. 4,049,792, Elsnau, issued September 20, 1977; U.S. Pat. No. 4,151,272, Geary et al., issued Apr. 24, 1975; U.S. Pat. No. 4,229,432, Geria, issued Oct. 21, 1980; U.S. Pat. No. 4,280,994, Tumey, issued July 28, 1981; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent No. 4,126,679 to Davy et al., issued Nov. 21, 1978; and European Patent Application Publication No. 117,070, May, issued August 29, 1984; The Chemistry and Technology of Waxes, A.H. Warth, 2nd Edition (reprint 1960), Reinhold Publishing Corporation, pp. 391-393 and 421; The Petroleum Chemicals Industry, R.F. Goldstein and A.L. Waddeam, 3rd Edition (1967), E & F.N. Span Ltd., pp. 33-40; The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, M.G. DeNavarre, 2nd edition (1970), Van Nostrand &

444 44 44

Company, pp. 354-376; and Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 24, Kirk-Othmer, 3.

edition (1979), pp. 466-481.

Other non-limiting examples of useful hardeners are selected from the group consisting of sorbitan esters, glyceryl esters, polyglyceryl esters, methylglucose esters, saccharose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, polymeric emulsifiers, and silicone emulsifiers.

Sorbitan esters are useful in the present invention. Sorbitan esters of C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids are preferred. Because of their typical process, these sorbitan esters usually contain mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (eg, SPAN® 80), sorbitan mono-oleate (eg, ARLACEL® 83), sorbitan mono-isostearate (eg, CRILL® 6, manufactured by Croda), sorbitan stearates (eg, SPAN® 60), sorbitan trioleate (eg, SPAN®) 85), sorbitan tristearate (eg SPAN® 65), sorbitan dipalmitates (eg SPAN® 40) and sorbitan isostearate. Particularly preferred emulsifiers useful in the present invention are sorbitan mono-isostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate.

Other suitable hardeners useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C 16 -C 22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceyl monobehenate and mixtures thereof; polyglyceryl esters of C 16 -C ₂₂ saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, polyglyceryl 3-oleate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate, and mixtures thereof; methyl glucose esters, preferably C 16 -C 22 methyl glucose esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose diisostearate and mixtures thereof; fatty acid saccharose esters, preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ saccharose esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as sucrose stearate, saccharostrilaurate, sucrose stearate (eg CRODESTA® F10) and mixtures thereof; hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates such as PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil; sorbitan ester ethoxylates such as PEG-40 sorbitanperoleate, polysorbate-80 and mixtures thereof; polymeric emulsifiers such as ethoxylated dodecyl glycol copolymers; and silicone emulsifiers such as laurylmethiconcopolyol, cetyldimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, and mixtures thereof.

Other useful hardeners include, but are not limited to, phosphatidylcholines and phosphatidylcholine-containing compositions such as lecithins; long chain C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid salts such as sodium stearate; quaternary ammonium salts of C16-C22 long-chain dialiphatic acids, quaternary ammonium salts of C1-C4 short-chain dialiphatic acids such as dilodiodimethylammonium chloride and dilododimethylammonium methylsulfate; quaternary ammonium salts of C16-C22 long chain dialkoyl (alkenoyl) -2-hydroxyethyl acids, quaternary ammonium salts of C1-C4 short chain dialiphatic acids such as dilojoyl-2-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride; quaternary imidazole salts of C16-C22 long chain dialiphatic acids such as methyl-1-tallowamidoethyl-2-tallowimidazolinium methylsulfate and methyl-1-oleylamidoethyl-2-oleylimidazolinium methylsulfate; benzyl quaternary ammonium salts of C16-C22 long chain monoaliphatic acids and benzyl quaternary ammonium salts of C1-C4 short chain dialiphatic acids such as dimethylstearylbenzylammonium chloride and synthetic phospholipids such as stearamidopropyl PG-diammonium chloride (PHOSPHOLIPies PTS) from Mona Industries.

Other preferred additives

The compositions of the present invention may contain many different other preferred ingredients. These additional components must be pharmaceutically acceptable. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992), incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, describes many different non-limiting cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients generally used in the skin care industry that are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of functional classes of ingredients are described on page 537 of the above publication. Examples of these and other functional classes include abrasives, absorbents, anti-caking agents, antioxidants, vitamins, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetic astringents, denaturants, drug astringents, drug-forming agents film, fragrances, opacifying agents, pH adjusting agents, preservatives, propellants, and reducing agents.

Aesthetic ingredients such as fragrances, pigments, coloring agents, essential oils, skin feelers and astringents are also useful.

Production methods

The disposable personal care cleansing products of the present invention are manufactured by adding the foaming surfactant, the skin care active ingredient and preferably the deposition aid (in any permutation) separately or simultaneously to the water-insoluble substrate or to the water-insoluble substrate. Kondicionémí

the agents are also preferably separately or simultaneously added to the water-insoluble substrate or impregnated into a water-insoluble substrate containing the above three components. "Separately" here means that the surfactants and the skin care active ingredient are added sequentially in any order without the first being combined. "Simultaneously" here means that the surfactants and the conditioning agents are added simultaneously, whether the first are combined or not.

The foaming surfactant and the skin care active ingredient are preferably added separately as this avoids emulsifying the skin care active ingredients. Separately, the conditioning component is also preferably added to the substrate. In this preferred embodiment, the preferred deposition aid (i) is mixed with the foaming surfactant prior to adding the composition to the substrate, (ii) mixed with the skin care active ingredient prior to adding the composition to the substrate, or (iii) separately added to the substrate or impregnated into the substrate. However, when a surfactant is added in this manner, the active skin care ingredient and any preferred ingredients are preferably added to the substrate after application of the surfactants. Regardless of the order of addition, the excess surfactants, the skin care active ingredient and / or the deposition aid is removed (eg, by a nipping method). Thereafter, the treated substrate is dried in the usual manner. The surfactant, the skin care active, the deposition aid, and any preferred ingredients are added to or impregnated into the substrate by any methods known to those skilled in the art, e.g., spraying, laser printing, spraying, dipping, wetting or coating (e.g. extrusion coating and slot coating).

When water or moisture is used or present in the present manufacturing process, the resulting treated substrate is then dried so that it is substantially free of water. The treated substrate is dried by any method known to those skilled in the art. Non-limiting examples of known drying methods include the use of conventional furnaces, radiation heat sources, microwave ovens, forced-air ovens and heated rollers or drums. Drying also includes air drying without supplying thermal energy other than that present in the conventional environment. A combination of different drying methods is also applicable.

Methods of maintaining skin care actives substantially on a substrate surface

The products of the present invention effectively and efficiently deliver skin care active ingredients to the skin and hair by maintaining the skin care active ingredients substantially on the substrate surface. The following is a detailed discussion of improved processing and improved composition that allows surface to saturation ratios greater than or equal to 1.25. All of the following processing and composition enhancements are applicable individually or in combination to maintain skin care actives substantially on the substrate surface. The term "chemical component" as used herein means an active skin care agent or a combination of a conditioning agent and an active skin care agent.

Chemical treatment of substrate

One way of substantially maintaining the chemical component on the substrate surface is by chemically treating the substrate or substrate fibers with either a hydrophobic or hydrophilic substance. The choice of the appropriate substance (hydrophobic or hydrophilic) depends on the chemical component to be stored. When, for example, an oil-insoluble conditioning agent is to enter the skin or hair, the substrate or its fibers are typically treated with a hydrophilic substance and vice versa. Since most substrates are inherently hydrophobic, usually derived, for example, from polyolefins, the description focuses on the hydrophilic chemical treatment of the substrate.

Many different surfactants, including ionic and nonionic surfactants, are used to hydrophilically modify the substrate. Suitable surfactants may be internal modifiers, (modifying compounds are added to the polymer composition prior to spinning or fiber formation), or topical modifiers (modifying compounds are added topically during or after fiber or nonwoven web formation). An internal modification process is disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,578,414 to Sawyer et al., and a topical modification process is disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,057,361 to Sayovitz et al., both references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

Non-limiting examples of suitable surfactants include silicone-based surfactants, e.g., polyalkylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane; fluoroaliphatic surfactants such as perfluoroalkyl polyalkylene oxides; and other surfactants such as acetyl-phenoxypolyethoxyethanol nonionic surfactants, alkyl aryl polyether alcohols, and polyethylene oxides. Commercially available surfactants suitable for the present invention include various polyethylene oxide surfactants available under the trade mark TRITON, e.g., step X-102 from Rohm and Haas Corp .; various polyethylene oxide surfactants available under the trade mark EMEREST, e.g., grades 2620 and 2650 from Emery Indust .; various polyalkylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane surfactants available under the trade name SILWET, e.g., step Y12488 from OSI Specialty Chemicals; and alkenylsuccinamide surfactants available under the trademark LUBRIZOL, e.g., step OS85870 from Lubrizol Corp .; and polyoxyalkylene-modified fluoroaliphatic surfactants available from Minnesota

·· ·· ♦ · · · · · · ·

V 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0

000 ··· 0 * ··

Mining and Manufacturing Co. The amount of surfactant required and the hydrophilicity of the modified substrate or substrate fibers will vary with each application depending on the type of surfactant selected and the polymer components used. Generally, the surfactant is added topically or internally in the range of 0.1 to 5 wt. %, preferably 0.3 to 4 wt. % by weight of the substrate or substrate fibers.

Increasing viscosity

Another way of substantially maintaining the chemical component on the substrate surface is to increase the viscosity prior to application to the substrate. This prevents saturation of the substrate with the chemical component. In general, there are two ways of increasing the viscosity of a chemical component: (i) applying to a substrate at the chemical component's transition temperature, and (ii) introducing a hardener into the chemical component before applying to the substrate. A combination of these methods is preferred.

Application to substrate at phase transition temperature

One way of maintaining the chemical component on the surface of the substrate is by applying it to the substrate at the chemical transition temperature. The method is applicable to any chemical component if the transition temperature of the chemical component is greater than 35 ° C (viscous at room temperature). The phase transition temperature is defined herein as the temperature at which a chemical component changes from a liquid to a viscous state. Essentially, in this method, the chemical component is applied at a temperature at which the chemical component becomes viscous upon transition from the liquid state during the cooling process.

Typically, the chemical component is applied to the substrate by melting or heating. Alternatively, the chemical component is heated and dissolved in a solvent prior to application to the substrate. However, some chemical components are viscous and yet liquid enough to be applied without heating. If the chemical transition temperature is close to or slightly higher than room temperature, other methods described herein must be used to maintain the chemical component on the substrate surface. Transition temperatures (also known as melting points) of most chemicals are listed in the Merck Index, 10th Edition (1983) and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2nd Edition, (1992), incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Application to the substrate at the transition temperature results in supercooling of the chemical component upon application to the substrate. Supercooling means that the cooling rate is artificially increased compared to the cooling rate at normal temperature. This provides a dual benefit of the chemical component fluidity during processing and reaching the phase transition temperature prior to substrate saturation of the chemical component. This method is used when the chemical component is viscous and plastic at room temperature.

Hardening agent

If the chemical component is liquid at room temperature (not viscous), the chemical component will not remain primarily on the substrate surface. Instead, the chemical component will tend to migrate and flow into the unoccupied volume of the substrate. The present method solves this by introducing a hardening agent into the chemical component. This increases the viscosity of the chemical component and results in the same result as application to the substrate at the phase transition temperature. Since the viscosity of the chemical component is effectively increased, it remains on the substrate surface without saturation of the substrate. Generally, the hardening agent must be viscous at room temperature and be miscible with the chemical component. The phase transition temperatures and the appropriate viscosities of the hardening agents vary widely from one hardener to another. Typically, however, the phase transition temperature of the hardening agent is above 35 ° C, preferably above 40 ° C.

In general, the hardener may be any substance that is viscous at room temperature. CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2nd Edition, (1992), incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, discloses many suitable hardeners. Any conditioning agent mentioned above which is more viscous than the chemical component and miscible with the chemical component is a suitable hardener.

Non-limiting examples of useful conditioning agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol ethoxylates having an average degree of ethoxylation ranging from 2 to 30, sorbitan esters, glyceryl esters, polyglyceryl esters, methylglucose esters, saccharose esters, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, and hydrophobically modified polyacrylic resins, starches, gums, cellulose ethers, polycationic polymers, nonionic polymers, polyethylene glycols (PEG), and mixtures thereof.

Nonlimiting examples of useful kondicionémích agents of the present invention include stearic acid, behenic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitanmonoisostearát, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitandipalmitáty, sorbitan isostearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, gylcerylmonopalmitát, glyceryl, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl -3-oleate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate, methylglucosdioleate, methylglucosesquiisostearate, sucrose stearate, saccharostrilaurate, sucrose stearate, oleth-2, oleth-3, steareth-2, PEG-40 sorbitanperoleate · Polysorbate · 9

Beeswax, polyethylene wax, CARBOPOL, PEMULEN, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca, guar gum, acacia, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, RETEN 201, KYMENE 557H®, ACCO 7112, CARB.

Non-uniform application to substrate

Another way of substantially maintaining the chemical component on the substrate surface is by non-uniform application of the chemical component to the substrate surface. 'Non-uniform' means that the sample distribution of the chemical component may vary on the substrate surface. For example, some portions of the surface of the substrate have greater or lesser amounts of the chemical component, including portions of the surface where there is no chemical component.

The order of application of the ingredients to the substrate

Another way of substantially maintaining the chemical component on the substrate surface is to determine the order of application of the additives to the substrate. In general, the best results are obtained when the chemical component is added to the dry substrate. Application of the first foaming surfactant followed by drying the surfactant-containing surfactant prior to application of the chemical component greatly improves the delivery of the chemical component.

Methods of cleaning and conditioning of skin and hair

The present invention also relates to methods of cleansing and conditioning the skin and hair with a personal care cleansing product of the present invention. These methods include the step of wetting a substantially dry, disposable personal care cleansing product comprising a water-insoluble substrate, a foaming surfactant and a skin care active ingredient with water, and contacting the skin or hair with the wetted product. In other embodiments, the present invention is also useful for delivering a variety of conditioning agents to the skin or hair.

The products of the present invention are substantially dry and are moistened with water before use. The product is wetted by immersion in water or exposed to a stream of water. Foam is generated from the article by mechanically rubbing and / or deforming the article before or during contact of the article with skin or hair. The resulting foam is useful for cleansing and conditioning the skin or hair. During the cleaning and rinsing process with water, the skin care active ingredients and preferred ingredients are deposited in the skin or hair. The deposition of skin care active ingredients and conditioning agents is improved by physically contacting the substrate with the skin or hair.

♦ «»

9 9 9 99

Methods for consistently storing skin care active ingredients and conditioning ingredients in skin or hair

The products of the present invention are useful for the consistent deposition of the skin care active ingredients of the present invention into the skin or hair. In other embodiments, where a conditioning agent is present, the compositions are also useful for consistently depositing the conditioning agents in the skin or hair.

The articles of the present invention have a storage consistency of greater than 60%, preferably greater than 65%, more preferably greater than 70% and most preferably greater than 75%.

The degree of consistency of deposition is the ratio between the deposition of active ingredients for skin protection in "non-ideal foaming and use" and the deposition of active ingredients for skin protection in "ideal foaming and use". Non-ideal foaming is used herein to denote the foaming achieved by rubbing the surface of an article containing the skin care active ingredients and then contacting the skin or hair with the same surface. This leads to insufficient deposition of the skin care actives, since some of the skin care actives are emulsified by the surfactant. Ideal foaming here means that foaming is achieved by rubbing the surface of the skin-free product and then contacting the skin or hair with the skin-containing surface. The same applies if both surfaces of the substrate contain skin care active ingredients (e.g., deposition achieved after foaming and skin contact with the same foamed surface containing emulsified skin care active versus skin contact with a non-foamed surface containing unemulsified active ingredient for skin care). The deposition consistency is maximum when the hardness value of the skin care active ingredient is greater than 0.02 kg.

The quantification of the skin care active ingredients stored in the skin or hair is measured using various standard analytical techniques well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include, for example, extracting the area of the skin or hair with a suitable solvent followed by chromatographic analysis (eg gas chromatography, liquid chromatography, supercritical liquid chromatography, etc.), IR spectroscopy, UV / VIS spectroscopy, mass spectroscopy etc. Direct skin measurements are also feasible. or hair using techniques such as IR spectroscopy, UV / VIS spectroscopy, opacity measurement, fluorescence spectroscopy, ESCA spectroscopy and the like.

In a typical deposition measurement method, the article of the present invention is moistened with water and foam is generated by printing and rubbing. The composition is then rubbed for 15 seconds on an area of 25 to 300 cm ² , preferably 50 to 100 cm ² , of the skin or head, which is labeled with a suitable indelible marker. The surface is then rinsed for 10 seconds and then allowed to air dry for 10 minutes. The area is then either extracted and the extracts analyzed or analyzed directly using the techniques described above.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments of the present invention. In the following examples, all ingredients are listed in the active concentration. The examples are given by way of illustration only and are not to be construed as limiting the present invention, many variations are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.

The ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA names, all percentages being by weight.

Examples 1 to 5

I. Surfactant phase

The following ingredients are mixed in a suitable container at room temperature. If necessary, heating is used for the complete dispersion.

Ingredients Weight% Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 Polyquaternium-10 0.25 - - - - PEG 14M 0.5 - - 0.5 - Hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride - - - - 0.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose - 0.25 - - - Guar gum - 0.25 - - -

The following ingredients are added to the above mixture with stirring.

EDTA disodium 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium Lauroylsarcosinate 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Sodium Lauroamfoacetate - - - - 3.33 Kokamidopropylbetain 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 - Decylpolyglucoside 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Methylparaben 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

The following ingredients are mixed in a separate mixing vessel. Stir until propylparaben is dissolved (heating to 40 ° C if necessary).

Water 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Butylene glycol 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Propylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

This mixture is added to the first mixing vessel. 1.5 to 2.5 g of the resulting mixture is applied to the substrate described herein and then dried.

II. Phase with active substance for skin care

The following ingredients are mixed in a suitable container at room temperature. If necessary, heating is used for the complete dispersion.

Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 Glycerine 60.0 40.0 0.0 50.0 30.0 Dex panthenol 1.0 4.0 2,0 4.0 4.0 Urea - - - 2,0 - PEG-30 - 20.0 25.0 5.0 Lactic acid - - 4.0 - - Dihydroxyacetone 4.0 - - - -

99 •

9 ♦

9 9

9 9 «« · · ·

999 99 · a · ♦ · * ^and * ··

Niacinamide - - - 5.0 10.0 Arbutin - 3.0 - - - Koji-acid - - 3.0 - - Alantoin - - - 2,0 2,0 Propylene glycol - 5.0 30.0 - - Polyquaternium-10 - 3.0 - - - PEG 14M 5.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose - - 2,0 2,0 - Guar gum - - - 1.0 -

0.10 to 1.0 g of the surfactant phase is applied to the dry substrate containing the surfactant phase. All added water is dried. The resulting cleansing product is used to moisturize with water and is useful for cleansing the skin or hair and for storing the skin care active ingredients in the skin or hair. Alternatively, the skin care active phase is added to the insoluble substrate or impregnated into the insoluble substrate prior to the surfactant phase, unless the surfactant is added to the naive method. This alternative method is possible using extrusion or gravure printing application methods.

Examples 6 to 10

I. Surfactant phase

The following ingredients are mixed in a suitable container at room temperature. If necessary, heating is used for the complete dispersion.

Ingredients Weight% Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 He did Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 Polyquaternium-10 - - - 0.25 - PEG 14M 0.5 - - 0.5 - Hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride - - - - 0.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose - 0.25 - - -

Guar gum - 0.25 - - -

The following ingredients are added to the above mixture with stirring.

EDTA disodium 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium Lauroylsarcosinate 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Sodium Lauroamfoacetate - - - - 3.33 Kokamidopropylbetain 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 - Decylpolyglucoside 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Methylparaben 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

The following ingredients are mixed in a separate mixing vessel. Stir until propylparaben is dissolved (heating to 40 ° C if necessary).

Water 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Butylene glycol 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Propylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

This mixture is added to the first mixing vessel. 1.5 to 2.5 g of the resulting mixture is applied to the substrate described herein and then dried.

II. Phase with active substance for skin care

The following ingredients are mixed in a suitable container and heated until melted (75-115 ° C).

SEFA * Cotonate 48,00 43,00 46,00 48,00 48,00 SEFA * Behenate 12.00 - - - - Petrolatum 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Tribehenin 5.00 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

© ··· © · © © © © © ·· · · · · · © © · © © · © © · © · · ♦ · » © · © © ♦ * ♦ ·· © ♦ © · 70

Polyethylene wax - 9.0 9.0 9.0 - Paraffin - - - - 12.00 Synthetic beeswax - 3.0 3.0 3.0 - C10-C30 Cholesterol / lanosterol esters 18.00 23,00 23,00 23,00 20,00 Vitamin E acetate - 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0

* SEFA is an acronym for sucrose fatty acid esters

The following ingredients are added to the above uniform molten mixture

Retinyl palmitate - - 2,0 - 1.0 PPG-15 stearyl ether 5,0 * - - - Salicylic acid 2,0 * - - - Titanium dioxide - 5.0 - - 2,0

* These ingredients are mixed until the salicylic acid is dissolved

0.05 to 0.75 g of the surfactant phase is applied to the substrate containing the surfactant phase. This skin care active phase is applied in the liquid state or in the melt state and then cooled. The resulting cleansing product is used for wetting with water and is useful for cleansing the skin or hair and for consistently storing the skin care active ingredients in the skin or hair. Alternatively, the skin care active phase is added to the insoluble substrate, or impregnated into the insoluble substrate prior to the surfactant phase, unless the surfactant is added to / into the process. This alternative method is possible using extrusion or gravure printing application methods.

Examples 11 to 15

I. Surfactant phase

The following ingredients are mixed in a suitable container at room temperature. If necessary, heating is used for the complete dispersion.

¥ ·· ♦ ¥ »» »» ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥¥ ¥¥ ¥¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ * ¥ ¥ * * * * * * * * * * * *

Ingredients Weight% Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 Polyquaternium-10 0.25 - - - - PEG 14M 0.5 - - 0.5 - Hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride - - - - 0.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose - 0.25 - - - Guar gum - 0.25 - - -

The following ingredients are added to the above mixture with stirring.

EDTA disodium 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium Lauroylsarcosinate 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Sodium Lauroamfoacetate - - - - 3.33 Kokamidopropylbetain 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 - Decylpolyglucoside 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Methylparaben 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

The following ingredients are mixed in a separate mixing vessel. Stir until propylparaben is dissolved (heating to 40 ° C if necessary).

Water 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Butylene glycol 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Propylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

This mixture is added to the first mixing vessel. 1.5 to 2.5 g of the resulting mixture is applied to the substrate described herein and then dried.

II. Active skin care phase ·

The following ingredients are mixed in a suitable container and heated to homogeneity (75-115 ° C).

98 9 • · 9 ·

SEFA * Cotonate 27.36 25.36 46,00 48,00 48,00 SEFA * Behenate - - - - - Petrolatum 5.7 5.7 10.00 10.00 10.00 Tribehenin 2.85 2.85 5.0 5.0 5.0 Polyethylene wax 5.13 5.13 9.0 9.0 - Paraffin - - - - 12.00 Synthetic beeswax 1.71 1.71 3.0 3.0 - C10-C30 Cholesterol / lanosterol esters 13.1 13.1 23,00 23,00 20,00 Vitamin E acetate 1.15 1.15 2,0 2,0 2,0 Decaglyceryldipalmitate 0.3 - 0.3 0.3 - Triglyceryl monostearate 2.7 0.3 2.7 2.7 0.3 Decaglyceryl stearate - 2.7 - - 2.7 Polyglyceryl tristearate - - - - - Retinyl palmitate - 2,0 2,0 - 1.0

The following ingredients are mixed at room temperature. They are added slowly with stirring to the above uniform mixture.

Water 5.0 2,0 11.0 10.0 0.0 Glycerine 30.0 9.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 Dex panthenol 1.0 1.0 2,0 4.0 3.0 Urea - - - 2,0 - PEG-30 - 20.0 15.0 12.0 10.0 Lactic acid - - 4.0 - - Dihydroxyacetone 4.0 - - - - Niacinamide - - - 5.0 10.0

·· ♦ · · »♦ 4 · 4

4 »

444 44

Arbutin - 3.0 - - - Koji-acid - - 3.0 - - Alantoin - - - 2,0 - Propylene glycol - 5.0 - - 7.0

0.05 to 0.75 g of the surfactant phase is applied to the dry substrate containing the surfactant phase and allowed to cool. The resulting cleansing product is used to moisturize with water and is useful for cleansing the skin or hair and for storing the skin care active ingredients in the skin or hair. Alternatively, the skin care active phase is added to the insoluble substrate, or impregnated into the insoluble substrate prior to the surfactant phase, unless the surfactant is added to / into the process. This alternative method is possible using extrusion or gravure printing application methods.

The following alternative manufacturing methods are applicable to any of the examples described above. To treat a two-layer substrate, the foaming surfactants, skin care active ingredient and preferred ingredients are separately or simultaneously added to or impregnated into the surface of either (i) one or both of the layers prior to the combination of layers into laminate, or (ii) after combination of layers into laminate . The process of adding surfactant and / or conditioning component to the substrate or impregnation into the substrate is carried out by spraying, printing, spraying, dipping or coating.

Similarly, a foaming surfactant and skin care active ingredient are added to the substrate in any order. Non-limiting examples of sequential steps include i) first adding a surfactant to the second layer, then joining the substrate and treating the skin care active ingredient; ii) first combining the surfactant with the skin care active ingredient, then treating the second layer and combining the two layers; iii) prior to the combination of the two layers, first treating the second layer with a surfactant and then the active skin care ingredient, and then joining the two layers.

In alternative embodiments, the substrate used is replaced by other substrates, such as woven substrates, hydroentangled substrates, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, or nets of polymeric crosslinked meshes.

Industrial Applicability φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ ♦ ♦ · · · · · · φ φ φ φ φ

The present invention relates to a substantially dry, disposable personal care product that is useful both for cleansing the skin or hair, and provides the skin or hair with active ingredients for skin care. These products are used by wetting the dry product with water and mechanical force, e.g., rubbing, generating foam from the moistened product and applying the foamed product to the skin in a manner common to skin cleansing.

Claims (25)

PATENT CLAIMS A disposable personal care product comprising: (A) a water insoluble substrate; (B) at least one foaming surfactant added to or impregnated into the substrate; and (C) a skin care active ingredient comprising at least one active ingredient for a skin care agent selected from the group consisting of water-soluble skin care active ingredients, volley-soluble skin care active ingredients and mixtures thereof, the skin care active ingredient is added to or impregnated into the substrate; the cleaning product is substantially dry and is capable of generating an average foam volume of greater than or equal to 30 ml. A disposable personal care product according to claim 1, wherein the foaming surfactant is from 0.5 to 40% by weight. % of the water-insoluble substrate and the skin care active ingredient are from about 0.001 to about 50 wt. % by weight of the water-insoluble substrate. A disposable personal care cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 1 or 2, wherein the cleansing product imposes more than 0.001 pg / cm ² of the skin care active on the skin or hair surface. 4. The disposable personal care product of any one of claims 1 to 3 further comprising at least one deposition aid added to or impregnated into the substrate, 5. A disposable personal care product according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the skin care active is selected from the group consisting of acne active, anti-wrinkle active, anti-wrinkle active. skin atrophy, skin barrier repair agents, non-steroidal cosmetic soothing agents, artificial brownening agents and accelerators, skin brighteners, antimicrobial and φ φ φ antifungal agents, sunscreens, sebaceous stimulators, sebaceous inhibitors, antioxidants and mixtures thereof. 6. The disposable personal care product of Claim 4 wherein the active skin care ingredient is selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, niacamide, nicotinic acid, benzoyl peroxide, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl palmitate, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, azealic acid, lipoic acid, resorcinol, lactic acid, glycolic acid, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, dihydroxyacetone, penthenol, arbutin, deoxyarbutin, kojic acid, allantoin, cholesterol, C10-C30 cholesterol / lanosterol esters, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, and mixtures thereof. A disposable personal care product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the active skin care agent is in the form of an emulsion comprising a) a discontinuous phase comprising water-soluble compounds selected from the group consisting of water, water-soluble and (b) a continuous phase containing oil-soluble skin care active ingredients. The disposable personal care product according to claim 8, further comprising 0 to 20 wt. % by weight of the active skin care emulsifier of the emulsifiers capable of forming the discontinuous and continuous phase emulsion and the emulsifier is selected from one or more emulsifiers such that the weight average arithmetic value of HLB is 1 to 7. The disposable personal care product according to any one of the preceding claims 4 to 8, wherein the deposition aid is selected from the group consisting of nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, non-polymeric cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. 9 9 9 9 9 * ♦ · · · · · 10. The disposable personal care product of claim 9 wherein the deposition aid is selected from the group consisting of gums, cellulose-derived polymers, protein-derived polymers, polymer ethers, synthetic polymers, and mixtures thereof. A disposable personal care product according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the water-insoluble substrate comprises at least one of silk, keratin, cellulose, acetates, acrylic, cellulose esters, modacryls. , polyamides, polyolefins, polyvinyl alcohols, pulp, cotton, hemp, jute, flax, acrylic, nylons, polyesters, polypropylenes, polyethylenes, polyvinyl acetates, polyurethanes, rayon, and mixtures thereof. The disposable personal care product of claim 11 wherein the water-insoluble substrate is selected from the group consisting of nonwoven substrates, woven substrates, hydroentangled substrates, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, nets of polymeric crosslinked meshes, formed films, and mixtures thereof. 13. The disposable personal care product of claim 12 wherein the water-insoluble substrate comprises a nonwoven sheet of fibers selected from the group consisting of rayon, cellulose fibers, polyester fibers, and mixtures thereof. A disposable personal care product according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the water-insoluble substrate comprises two or more sheets of fibers, each with a different texture. The disposable personal care product of any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic foaming surfactants, nonionic foaming surfactants, amphoteric foaming surfactants, and mixtures thereof. 16. The disposable personal care product of claim 15 wherein the anionic foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sarcosinates, sulfates, isethionates, phosphates, taurates, lactylates, glutamates and mixtures thereof, the nonionic foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: groups containing amioxides, alkylglucosides, alkylpolyglucosides, polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, alkoxylated fatty acid esters, saccharose esters and mixtures thereof, and an amphoteric foaming surfactant are selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultains, hydroxysultains, alkyliminoacetates, iminodialkanoates and mixtures thereof. The disposable personal care product of any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the skin care active ingredient further comprises a conditioning ingredient added to the substrate or impregnated into the substrate separately from the foaming surfactant. the conditioning component comprises a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble conditioning agents, water-soluble conditioning agents, lipid hardeners, and mixtures thereof. A disposable personal care product according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the active skin care component has a hardness value greater than 0.02 kg. The disposable personal care product of any one of the preceding claims 17 or 18, wherein the oil-soluble conditioning agent and the lipid hardener are selected from the group consisting of fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, ethoxylated alcohols, polyol polyesters. , glycerin monoesters, glycerin polyesters, epidermal and sebaceous hydrocarbons, lanolin, mineral oil, silicone oil, silicone gum, vegetable oil, vegetable oil adduct, petrolatum, nonionic polymers, hydrogenated vegetable oils, nonionic polymers, natural waxes, synthetic waxes, polyolefinic polyolefinic polyolefin the monoester, polyolefinic polyesters, cholesterols, cholesterol esters, and mixtures thereof, and the water-soluble conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, glycerol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethylhexanediol, &lt; RTI ID = 0.0 &gt; Hexyleneglycols Hexylene glycols Hexylene glycols Hexylene glycols , other aliphatic alcohols, panthenol, urea, cationic polymers, polyols, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof. 20. A method for producing a disposable personal care product comprising: (A) adding, separately or simultaneously, to a water-insoluble substrate or impregnating a water-insoluble substrate; (i) at least one foaming surfactant added to a water-insoluble substrate or impregnated; into a water-insoluble substrate; and (ii) an active skin care ingredient comprising at least one skin care active selected from the group consisting of water-soluble skin care active ingredients, oil-soluble skin care active ingredients, and mixtures thereof; and B) the product treated according to step A) is substantially dried and the resulting product is capable of generating an average foam volume greater than or equal to 30 ml. 21. A method for producing a disposable personal care cleansing product according to claim 20, wherein the skin care active ingredient is added to the water-insoluble substrate or impregnated into the water-insoluble substrate separately from the foaming surfactant according to the invention. step A). 22. A method of producing a disposable personal care cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 20 or 21, wherein step A) further comprises adding a compound selected from the group consisting of deposition aids, volley-soluble conditioners, water-soluble conditioners agents, lipid hardeners, and mixtures thereof. 23. A method of cleansing the skin or hair and depositing the skin care active in the skin or hair by a personal care cleansing product, characterized in that A) a foam is generated in an amount corresponding to an average foam volume of greater than or equal to 30 ml. a disposable personal care cleansing product with water and rubbing a substantially dry disposable personal care cleansing product comprising (i) a water insoluble substrate, (ii) at least one foaming surfactant, and (iii) an active skin care ingredient comprising at least one active care agent skin selected from ·· * ¥ ··· ¥ · • • ¥ ¥¥ • * ¥ • · · ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ »· · ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ Groups containing water-soluble skin care active ingredients, oil-soluble skin care active ingredients and mixtures thereof; and B) the skin or hair is contacted with the product and the foam formed therein. 24. A method of cleansing the skin or hair and depositing the skin care active in the skin or hair with a personal care cleansing product according to claim 23, wherein the product used in step A) further comprises a compound selected from the group consisting of deposition agents, volley soluble conditioning agents, water-soluble conditioning agents, lipid hardeners and mixtures thereof. A method of cleansing the skin or hair and depositing the skin care active in the skin or hair with a personal care cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 23 or 24, wherein the skin care active ingredients are provided to the skin or hair with consistency. storage of at least 60