CZ180999A3 - Cosmetic preparation intended for fining, softening up and refreshing/straightening of skin and cosmetic method of skin treatment - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a liquid polyhydric ester carboxylic acid alcohol containing a polyhydric moiety alcohol and at least 4 carboxylic acid moieties in which it is present a portion of the polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of sugars or sugar alcohols containing from 4 to 8 hydroxyl groups and in which part of the acid carboxyl contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in which said liquid ester of polyhydric alcohol acids carboxyl has a full melting point of less than about 30 ° C; (b) a plasticizer material selected from the group consisting of a compound having formula (I) wherein R 1 is selected from hydrogen or CH3; R 2, R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from the group consisting of C 1 -C 10 straight or branched alkyl; and x represents an integer from 1 to 20; and compounds having formula (II) wherein R 5 is selected from the group consisting of optionally hydroxy or C 1-6 alkyl-substituted benzyl a R 6 is selected from the group consisting of C 1 -C 10 or straight alkyl; and mixtures thereof; and? ascorbic acid is not derivatives

Description

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. More particularly, the invention is directed to cosmetic compositions that provide improved skin rejuvenation / refreshment and / or consistency along with skin softening, skin smoothing, and improved wipability and absorbency characteristics.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The skin is composed of several layers of cells that form the surface and protect the keratin and collagen fibrillar proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. It is known that the outermost of these layers, referred to as the corner layer, is made up of 25 nm protein 'bundles' surrounded by 8 nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the membrane of the horn layer and disrupt its integrity by removing lipids (i.e., removing lipids from the horn layer). These disruptions in the skin surface topography result in roughening of the skin surface, whereby the surfactant or solvent may optionally be able to interact with keratin and thereby cause irritation.

Treatment of skin darkening and hyperpigmentation, such as aging stains, freckles, brown stains, is one of the unfulfilled customer requirements in addition to the treatment of roughened surface and / or damaged skin. It has been shown that radiation of uitra-violet rays as a result of the influence of sunlight promotes the formation of a melanin complex in melanocytes located in the basal layer of the epidermis. The melanin produced is released from melanocyte dendrites, subsequently disseminated into keratinocytes, resulting in hyperpigmentation of the skin, including warts, freckles, colored spots and unwanted general darkening and / or basal skin irregularities.

At present, the use of l-ascorbic acids is not limited to ingredients that supply vitamin C as an essential nutrient, but is also extended to a variety of other different applications. It is believed that l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives, due to their chemical structure and physiological effects, are useful as a starting agent, reducing agent, antioxidant, bleaching agent and stabilizer in various chemical reagents, food and beverages; in medicaments for perception diseases, as a preventive agent and a remedy for viral diseases, bacterial

Diseases and malignancies; and further as a reducing agent, a UV absorbing agent and a melanin-forming buffer in cosmetic compositions comprising skin softening agents and skin rejuvenating and / or skin straightening agents.

However, the use of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives in various applications results in undesirable effects in various compositions, particularly in cosmetic products. This is due to the unpleasant aesthetic properties of the product (i.e., it leaves a sticky and rough feel after application), a reduction in physiological effects mainly due to the decomposition and oxidation of l-ascorbic acid or poor physical stability of the compositions.

Based on the above, there is a need for a cosmetic composition having the desired skin reversing effects along with first-class aesthetic characteristics of the product, such as softening and smoothing the skin, and excellent rub and absorbency characteristics, as well as good stability both physically and chemically .

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) a liquid ester of a polyhydric alcohol of a carboxylic acid comprising a polyhydric alcohol moiety and at least 4 carboxylic acid moieties, wherein the polyhydric alcohol moiety is selected from the group consisting of sugars and sugar alcohols containing from about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups; from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms and wherein said liquid polyhydric carboxylic acid ester has a total melting point of less than about 30 ° C;

(b) a softening material selected from compounds having formula (I):

R2

R1- (L //

33 0R4 (O • ·

4 ··· 44 4,444 · · 4,444 4,444

4,444 4444 4,444,444

4 4 4 4 4 4

Wherein R ¹ is selected from hydrogen or CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from the group consisting of straight or branched alkyl, and x is an integer from 1 to 20; and compounds having formula (II):

R _s -c-OR e where R ⁵ is selected from the group consisting of benzyl optionally substituted by hydroxy or C _r C ₄ alkyl and R ⁶ is volqno from the group consisting of branched or straight alkyl; and mixtures thereof; and

c) a compound of scorbic acid.

While the specification is delimited by the claims detailing and precisely claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be more clearly understood from the following description.

All percentages and ratios used below are determined by weight of total composition, unless otherwise specified.

All measurements relating to the invention are performed at 25 ° C unless otherwise specified.

All percentages, ratios and levels of impurities mentioned herein are based on the actual amount of impurity and do not include solvents, fillers or other materials with which the impurity can be mixed in the form of a commercially available product, unless otherwise specified.

All publications, patent applications and patents mentioned herein are hereby incorporated by reference in their respective contents. Citation of any reference is not permitted with respect to any limitation as to its utility as a prior art with respect to the battled invention.

As used herein, the term "comprising" means that other steps may be performed and other components may be delivered that do not affect the end result. The term includes the terms' consisting of and 'basically consisting of'.

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·· ·· · · · · · · · ·

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises (a) a liquid polyhydric alcohol ester of a carboxylic acid, (b) an emollient, and (c) a skin revitalizing and / or smoothing agent. Said composition provides a pleasant skin rejuvenation and / or smoothing, together with Rocit skin conditioning effects such as skin softening, soothing effect of the skin, and rub and absorbency characteristics.

The term " skin conditioner properties " as used herein refers to the overall sensitivity of the skin to which the product has been applied. Products applied to the skin tend to penetrate the corneal layer of the skin, resulting in the desired benefit to the skin. The term "skin benefit" as used herein includes any effect of cosmetic skin treatment including, but not limited to, revitalizing and / or leveling, hydration, moisturizing (ie, the ability to retain or retain water or moisture in the skin) , softening, visible skin surface enhancement, skin soothing, skin sensitivity adjustment, and the like.

The term "complete melting point" as used herein refers to the melting point as measured by the well-known method of "Differential Scanning Calorimetry" (DSC). The complete melting point is the temperature at the intersection with the base, ie the specific heat line with the tangent line to the trailing edge of the endothermic peak. In general, a sensing temperature of 5 ° C / minute is suitable for measuring complete melting points for the purposes of the present invention. It should be noted, however, that scan rates can be appropriately selected by an analyst chemist skilled in the art according to individual conditions. DSC metpdq measurement of complete melting points is also described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,514 to Letton et al., Issued Apr. 26, 1994, incorporated herein by reference.

The term "non-occlusive", as used herein, indicates that the ingredient as described does not substantially or significantly block the passage of air and moisture through the skin surface.

Liquid polyhydric alcohol ester of carboxylic acids The essential component of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises the liquid ester of polyhydric alcohol carboxylic acid.

The liquid polyhydric alcohol ester of the carboxylic acids at this point is preferably present at a level of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% and very preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight. means. The level of the polyhydric alcohol ester by weight of the oil in the composition is preferably from about 1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 5% to about 20%. In view of providing improved skin softening and soothing effects, the weight ratio of the liquid polyhydric alcohol ester of the carboxylic acid to the emollient is preferably in the range of about 5: 1 to about 1: 5, more preferably in the range of 2: 1 to about 1: 2.

• ·

The polyhydric alcohol ester preferred for use in the invention is a non-occlusive liquid or liquefiable ester of a polyhydric alcohol of carboxylic acids. These polyhydric alcohol esters are derived from a radical or group of a polyhydric alcohol and one or more racicals or groups of carboxylic acids. In other words, these esters comprise a moiety derived from a polyhydric alcohol and one or more moieties derived from a carboxylic acid. Such carboxylic acid esters may also be derived from carboxylic acid. These carboxylic acid esters can also be described as liquid esters of polyvalent fatty acid alkphols, since the terms carboxylic acid and fatty acid are often used interchangeably by those skilled in the art.

Preferred polyhydric alcohol polyesters used in the present invention include certain polyhydric alcohols, particularly sugars or sugar alcohols, esterified with at least four groups of fatty acids. Accordingly, the polyhydric alcohol starting material must have at least four esterifiable hydroxyl groups. Examples of preferred polyhydric alcohols are pukers, including monosaccharides and disaccharides, and sugar alcohols. Examples of monosaccharides containing four hydroxyl groups are xylose and arabinose and a sugar alcohol from zexylose having five hydroxyl groups, i.e. xylitol. The erythrose monosaccharide is not suitable for the practice of the present invention because it contains only three hydroxyl groups, but the sugar alcohol derived from zerythrose, i.e., erythritol contains four hydroxyl groups and can accordingly be used. Suitable monosaccharides containing five hydroxyl groups include galactose, fructose and sorbose. Sugar alcohols containing six -OH groups obtained as sucrose hydrolysis products as well as glucose and sorbose, e.g. sorbitol, are also suitable. Examples of polyhydric disaccharide alcohols that may be used include macose, lactose and sucrose, all containing eight hydroxyl groups.

The polyhydric alcohols preferred for preparing the polyesters useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose and sucrose. Sucrose is very advantageous.

The polyhydric alcohol starting material containing at least four hydroxyl groups is esterified on at least four -OH groups with fatty acids containing from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. Examples of such fatty acids include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, myristolic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostidic acid, arachidonic acid, arachidic acid, arachidic acid, arachidic acid behenic acid and erucic acid. The fatty acids may be derived from naturally occurring or synthetic fatty acids; these may be saturated or unsaturated; including geometric and •

4 4 4

4 4 4 44 4444

4,444 4444 4,444,444

4445 4 4

44 44 4 44 44 positional isomers. However, in order to provide liquid polyesters suitable for use in the invention, at least 50% by weight would be used. the fatty acids incorporated into the polyester molecule should be unsaturated. Oleic and linoleic acid and mixtures thereof are highly preferred.

The polyesters of polyhydric fatty acid alcohols useful in the present invention should contain at least four fatty acid ester groups. It is not necessary that all hydroxyl groups of a polyhydric alcohol be esterified with a fatty acid, but it is preferred that the polyester contain no more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Most preferably, substantially all of the hydroxyl groups of the polyhydric alcohol are esterified with a fatty acid, i.e. a portion of the polyhydric alcohol is substantially completely esterified. The fatty acids esterified into the polyhydric alcohol molecule may be the same or mixed, but as noted above, a fixed amount of unsaturated acid ester groups must be present to ensure fluidity.

To illustrate the above point, the sucrose fatty triester is not suitable for use in the invention since it does not contain the required four fatty acid ester groups. Fatty acid sucrose sucrose would be suitable but is not preferred because it has more than two non-esterified hydroxyl groups. Fatty acid hexaester sucrose is preferred because it has no more than two non-esterified hydroxyl groups. Highly preferred compounds in which all hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids include fatty acid octa-substituted sucrose esters.

The following are non-limiting examples of specific polyesters of polyhydric fatty acid alcohols containing at least four fatty acid ester groups suitable for use in the present invention: glucose tetraoleate, soybean oil (unsaturated) glucose tetra-esters, mixed soybean oil fatty acid esters, arabinosate tetraraol esters of linoleic acid, tetriololeol galactose, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol unexpanded soybean oil fatty acid esters, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof.

As mentioned above, highly preferred polyhydric fatty acid alcohol esters are esters wherein the fatty acid moieties contain from about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms.

Preferred polyesters of polyhydric alcohols preferred for use in the invention have complete melting points of less than 30 ° C, preferably less than 27.5 ° C, more preferably less than 25 ° C. The complete melting points reported in the text are measured by "Differential Scanning Calorimetry" (DSC).

9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 tt 9 9 tt 9 tt

Polyester polyols of fatty acid alcohols suitable for use in the invention can be prepared by various methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include: trgesterification of a polyhydric alcohol with methyl, ethyl or glycerol esters of fatty acids using various catalysts; acylating the polyhydric alcohol with a fatty acid chloride; acylating a polyhydric alcohol with a fatty acid anhydride; and acylating the polyhydric alcohol with a fatty acid, per se. See U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent 2,831,854; U.S. Patent 4,005,196 to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977.

Softening agent

A second essential component of the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprises a emollient selected from compounds having formula (I):

R2

I3 OR4 (I) wherein R ¹ vqleno from hydrogen or CH _3, R ^2, R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from C1-C20 branched or straight chain alkyl; and x is an integer from 1 to 20; and compounds having the formula (II):

O r5 — c — OR ⁶ (II) • · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · Wherein R ⁵ is selected from the group consisting of benzyl optionally substituted with hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, and R ⁶ is selected from the group consisting of C 1 -C 20 branched or straight alkyl; and mixtures thereof.

Preferred emollients suitable for use in the invention include emollients having formula (I) and (II) wherein R ¹ is hydrogen, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from the group consisting of C ¹ -C ⁴ straight alkyls and x is from 10 to 18, and wherein R ⁵ represents unsubstituted benzyl and R ⁶ represents C 12 -C ₁₅ alkyl.

Suitable emollients of the types listed above include, but are not limited to, methyl isostearate, iso-propyl isostearate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, isostearyl neovalerate.

Especially methylisostearate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred for use in the invention, particularly in view of obtaining a mildness and skin soothing effect.

The emollient is present in the compositions of the invention at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, very preferably from about 1% to about 3% (imot.

Compound of qscorbic acid

A third essential ingredient of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention is an ascorbic acid compound. The ascorbic acid compound is selected according to its compatibility with the other ingredients, in particular its compatibility with the liquid ester of the polyhydric carboxylic acid alcohol and the emollient. The ascorbic acid compound may be included as a substantially pure material or as an extract obtained by appropriate physical and / or chemical separation from natural (eg, plant) sources. The ascorbic acid compound is preferably substantially pure, more preferably substantially pure.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, very preferably from about 1% to about 5% of the ascorbic acid compound.

Without theoretic rejection, it is believed that the ability to significantly reduce the ascorbic acid compound results in increased cell permeability ("cell breathing"), enzyme activation, and antioxidation. Furthermore, it is a concern that topical application of the ascorbic acid compound will reduce the oxidized melanin complex itself and its starting materials, as well as suppress tyrosinase activity in cpelanosones, thereby providing skin benefits such as protecting melanin products and reducing warts due to aging, stains and freckles. associated with skin hyperpigmentation.

The term "ascorbic acid compound" as used herein refers to a compound having the formula (III):

wherein V and W independently represent -OH; R is -CH (OH) -CH ₂ OH; derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.

The gscorbic acid compound useful for the purposes of the invention is preferably an ascorbic acid salt. The term "ascorbic acid salt," as used herein, refers to a non-toxic alkali metal, glcalic earth metal, and ammonium salt commonly known to those skilled in the art, including, but not limited to, sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium and protamine salts, which are prepared by methods well known in the art.

The ascorbic acid salt useful for the purposes of the invention is more preferably a metal ascorbate having the following formula (IV):

O'

CH — CHoORS

I ₇

XM OR ⁷ (IV) wherein R ⁷ and R ⁸ are independently selected from hydrogen; linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 carbon atoms; and M is a metal; and x is an integer from about 1 to about 3. R ⁷ and R ⁸ · 4444

44

4 4 4

More preferably, the groups are independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 3 carbon atoms; M is sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium.

Examples of other preferred salts of ascorbic acid having formula (IV) include monovalent metal salts (e.g. sodium ascorbate, potassium ascorbate), divalent metal salts (e.g. magnesium ascorbate, calcium ascorbate) and trivalent metal salts (e.g. aluminum ascorbate) of ascorbic acid.

The ascorbic acid salt useful in the invention preferably represents a water-soluble ascorbylester having the following formula (V):

yM (V) wherein A is sulfate or phosphate, R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched alkyl having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms; and M is a metal; and y is an integer from one to three. Advantage; R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched alkyl having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; M is sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium.

Examples of water-soluble salts include, but are not limited to, l-ascorbyl phosphate ester salts exemplified by sodium l-ascorbyl phosphate, potassium l-ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium l-ascorbyl phosphate, calcium l-ascorbyl phosphate, l-ascorbyl phosphate. The L-ascorbyl sulphate ester salts can also be used as water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives. Examples are sodium l-ascorbyl sulphate, potassium l-ascorbyl sulphate, magnesium l-ascorbyl sulphate, calcium l-ascorbyl sulphate and aluminum l-ascorbyl sulphate.

Additional additional components

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be applied for any suitable purpose, in particular they are suitable for cosmetic use on the skin. In particular, the cosmetic compositions intended for skin treatment may be in the form of creams, lotions, gels and the like. Cosmetic

99

9

9

The 999 compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion of one or more oil phases. in an aqueous continuous phase, each individual oil phase comprises a separate oil component or a mixture of oil components in miscible or homogeneous form, but the different oil phases comprise different materials or combinations of different materials from each other. The total level of the oil phase components in the compositions of the invention is preferably from about 0.1% to about 60%, preferably from about 1% to about 30%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight.

The pH of the compositions is preferably from about 6 to about 9, more preferably from about 7 to about 8.

The equilibrium of the composition is completed by water or an aqueous carrier suitable for topical application to the skin. The water content of the compositions of the invention is generally from about 30% to about 98.89%, preferably from about 50% to about 95%, and particularly preferably from about 60% to about 90% by weight.

The compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of moisturizing creams or lotions that can be applied to the skin while these remain.

Silicone oil

The cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably comprises either the whole or part of the oil phase of the non-oil phase of a first phase comprising a silicone oil comprising a cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone oil, the composition comprising from 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% wt. a combination of crosslinked silicone and silicone oil. The first phase comprising silicone comprises about 10% to about 40%, more preferably about 20% to about 30% by weight. and a first phase comprising a silicone cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymer and from about 60% to about 90%, preferably from about 70% to about 80% by weight. a first phase comprising silicone silicone oil.

The cross-linked polyorganopiloxane polymer comprises a polyorganosiloxane polymer cross-linked with a crosslinking agent. Crosslinking agents intended for use include any crosslinking agents useful for preparing crosslinked silicones. Suitable crosslinking agents for the purposes of the invention include those represented by the following general formula:

«» «

99

9 9 ·

9 9 9

9 9 99 ·

· · · 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 • 9 999 9 9

9

9 99 99 (R) ₃ Si-O-St-o I

R?

—Si (R) ₃ z in which represents methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl, R ₂ is hydrogen or - (CH ₂ ) _n CH = CH ₂ in which n ranges from about 1 to about 50; from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to about 100, and R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms.

The crosslinking agent preferably has the general formula:

(H ₃ C) ₃ Si-O

R

Si — O ^- —ch ₃ ) 3 z

wherein R 1, R ₂ and z are as defined above.

The crosslinking agent (crosslinking agent) of the highly preferred units has the following general formula:

(H ₃ C) ₃ Si — Oi '

-Sř-O

R?

S <CH3) ₃

99

9

9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

99

9

9 9 9 9 wherein 99 is in the range of from about 1 to about 1,000, preferably from about 1 to about 100.

The cross-linked polysiloxane polymer preferably comprises from about 10% to about 50%, more preferably from about 10% to about 30% by weight. crosslinked polysiloxane polymer crosslinking agent.

Any polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use in cosmetic compositions for the care of the skin may be used for the purposes of the invention. Polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use in the invention include polymers represented by the following general formula:

fl ' (RhSi — O- —Si — O- AND -SHO- —S * R 13 . * 4 P 1 - ^R 2 q

wherein R ₁ is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl, R ₂ is hydrogen or or - (CH ₂ ) _n CH = CH ₂ wherein n is from about 1 to about 50, R ₃ and R ₄ are independently selected from the group consisting of methyl, efhyl, propyl and phenyl, R is a terminal such as an optionally hydroxy substituted alkyl group having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, more preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 2 p is an integer ranging from about 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 1 to about 500; q is an integer ranging from about 1 to about 1,000, preferably from about 1 to about 500.

The polyorganosiloxane of the preferred units is selected from the group consisting of polymers having the following general structure:

• · • ·

· · · · Φ · · · · · · φ · φ ·

(H ₃ C) ₃ Si — O- -Si — Ο _Ί 1 P 1 J -Sr-O- 1 _r ₂ J -s <ch ₃ ) ₃ q

_n in which R, _R2, R3, _R4, p and q are as defined above.

As defined herein, p and q reflect the number of Si-O bonds in the polymer chain and R 1, and R ₂ and R ₃ and R ₄ with the mph change in each monomer unit. E.g. polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use in the invention include methylvinyl- "dimethicone", methylvinylldiphenyl- "dirpethicone" and methylvinylphenylmethyldiphenyl- "dimethicone".

In order to achieve crosslinking between the polyorganosiloxane polymer and the crosslinking agent, the (-Si-H) group must be cross-linked with the -Si- (CH ₂ ) _n CH = CH ₂ group so that for any specific transverse bond the R ₂ group in the polyorganosiloxane polymer be different from the R ₂ groups rea and crosslinking. E.g. in any cross-link, if R ₂ in the polyorganosiloxane polymer is - (CH ₂ ) _n CH = CH ₂ , then R ₂ in the crosslinking agent must represent hydrogen and vice versa. For each of the polyorganosiloxane polymer and crosslinking agent may, however, there was a mixture of R _2nd

In preferred compositions, the polyorganosiloxane polymer is selected from the group of alkylarylpolysiloxane polymers having the general formula:

(CHabSi — σ

ch ₃ CeH ₅ CHj if 01 -i »—CL | 5 kSi — O1 CH ₃ 1 CeH _s m fi ₂

-Si (CH 3 h n

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · Wherein R ₂ is selected from the group consisting of -CH = CH ₂ or hydrogen, preferably -CH = CH _2, and wherein I is an integer ranging from about 1 to about 1,000, preferably from about 1 to about 500, m is an integer ranging from 0 to about 1,000, preferably from about 0 to about 500, and jp is an integer ranging from about 1 to about 1,000, preferably from about 1 to about to 100.

The polyorganosiloxane polymer in very preferred compositions is selected from the group of alkylarylpolysiloxane polymers having the general formula;

wherein I, m and n are as defined above. In preferred compositions, m is in the range of about 1 to about 1,000, preferably about 200 to about 800.

The first phase comprising pilicone also comprises silicone oil. Any direct, branched and cyclic silicones suitable for use in skin care cosmetic compositions may be used for the purposes of the invention. Silicone oils may be volatile or non-volatile. Silicone oils suitable for use in the invention include silicone oils having a weight average molecular weight of about 100,000 or less, preferably about 50,000 or less. The silicone oil is preferably selected from silicone oils having a weight average molecular weight ranging from about 100 to about 50,000 and preferably from about 200 to about 40,000. In preferred compositions, the silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and phenylmethicone; a mixture thereof, most preferably phenylmethicone.

Materials suitable for use in the first phase including silicone are available under the trade name KSG supplied by Shinetsu Chemical Co., Ltd., eg KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17, KSG-18. These materials comprise a combination of a cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone oil. Particularly preferred for use in the invention, particularly in combination with an organic amphiphilic emulsifying material, is KSG-18. The assigned INCI names for KSG15, KSG-16, KSG-17 and KSG-18 are "Cyclomethicone-Dimethicone / Vinyl-Dimethicone Crosslinked Polymer", "Dimethicone-Dimethicone / Vinyl-Dimethicone Crosslinked Polymer", • "Cyclomethicone- Dimethicone / Vinyl-Dimethicone crosslinked polymer 'and "Phenyl-TrimethiconeDimethicone / PhenylVinyl-Dimethicone crosslinked polymer", respectively.

The compositions of the invention preferably also comprise a second non-crosslinked phase comprising silicone. The second non-crosslinked silicone phase is present in preferred compositions at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, in particular from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight. means. Silicone fluids suitable for use in the second phase comprising the silicone of the invention include water-insoluble silicones including nonvolatile polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxane resins and liquids, volatile cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated silicones, amino and quaternary ammonium modified silicones, and mixtures thereof.

The second phase comprises silicone in preferred compositions comprising a silicone resin or a silicone mixture comprising a silicone resin. The term "silicone resin" as used herein refers to high molecular weight silicone based fluids having an average molecular weight of greater than about 200,000, and preferably from about 200,000 to about 400,000. Silicone oils generally have a molecular weight of less than about 200,000. Silicone resins typically have a viscosity at 25 ° C of greater than about 1,000,000 mm ² / s. Silicone resins include "dimethicones" as described by Petrarch and in U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416, May 1, 1979 to Spitzer et al., And Noll, Walter, "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones." , New York: Academic Press, 1068. Silicone resins are also described in &quot; General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Dpta Sheets &quot; SE 30, Se 33, SE 54 and SE 76.

Silicone Resins! suitable for use include any silicone resin suitable for use in a skin care cosmetic composition. Silicone resins suitable for use in the invention are silicone resins having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from the group consisting of "dimethiconol", fluorosilicone and "dimethicone" and mixtures thereof.

Dimethiconol-based silicones suitable for use in the invention may have a chemical structure (II):

HO (CF) ₃ ) ₂ SiO [(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _n (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiOH wherein n is from about 2,000 to about 40,000, preferably from about 3,000 to about 30,000.

Examples of fluorosilicones useful in the invention may have a molecular weight of from about 400,000 to about 300,000, preferably from about 240,000 to about 260,000, and most preferably about 250,000.

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

Specific examples of silicone resins include polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanmethylvinylsiloxane copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane-diphenylmethylvinylsiloxane copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

The silicone resin used in the invention may be incorporated into the composition as part of a mixture of silicones. The treasure is a silicone resin incorporated as part of a mixture of silicones, the silicone resin preferably constituting from about 5% to about 40%, preferably from about 10% to 20% by weight. silicone mixtures. The silicone or silicone mixture preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight. means.

Silicone compositions based on a silicone resin suitable for use in a second phase comprising silicone compositions of the invention include those based on:

(i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from the group consisting of "dimethiconol", fluorosilicone and "dimethicone" and mixtures thereof; and (ii) a silicone carrier having a viscosity of from about 0.65 mm ² / s to about 100 mm ² / s, wherein the ratio of (i) to (ii) is from about 10:90 to about 20:80, and wherein said the silicone resin based component has a final viscosity value of from about 500 mm ² / s to about 10,000 mm ² / s.

Silicone-based carriers suitable for use in the invention include certain silicone fluids. The silicone fluid may be either a polyalkylsiloxane, polyarylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxane or polyethersiloxane copolymer. Mixtures of these liquids may also be used and are preferred in certain embodiments.

Polyalkylsiloxane fluids that may be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with viscosities in the range of about 0.65 to 600,000 mm ² / s, preferably about 0.65 to about 10,000 mm ² / s at 25 ° C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as the Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. Base non-volatile polyalkylarylsiloxane fluids that may be used include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes having viscosities of from about 0.65 to 30,000 mm @ 2 / s at 25 ° C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from General Electric Company as SF 1075 methylphenyl liquid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. Also volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having a ring structure comprising from about 3 to about 7 (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO portions are also suitable for use in the invention.

The viscosity can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer as described in the Dow Corning Corporate Tpst Method CTM0004 (Dow Corning Company's Test Methods), July 29, 1970. Preferably, the viscosity of the second liquid phase silicone composition comprises a viscosity.

9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 ranges from about 500 mm ² / s to about 100,000 mm ² / s, preferably from about 1,000 mm ² / s to about 10,000 mm ² / s.

A silicone resin based component highly preferred for use in the compositions of the invention is a "dimethiqonol" resin having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000 opo, together with a silicone carrier having a viscosity of from about 0.65 to 100 mm ² / s. Examples of this silicone component are Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% 5 mm ² / s "Dimethicon" capsule / 15% "Dimethiconol") and Dow Corning Q2-1401 available from Dow Corning.

Another class of silicones suitable for use in the second phase comprising the silicone of the invention comprises polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkene copolymers comprising at least one polydiorganosiloxane moiety and at least one polyoxyalkene moiety, said polydiorganosiloxane moiety consisting essentially of:

RbS10 (4_b) / 2 siloxane units wherein b is from about 0 to about 3 inclusive, wherein the average value is about 2 R radicals per silicone for all siloxane units in the copolymer and R denotes a radical selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalent radical bond of said polyoxyalkene moiety to the polydiorganosiloxane moiety, at least about 95% of all R radicals being methyl; said polyoxyalkene moiety having an average molecular weight of at least about 1,000 and consisting of from about 0% to about 50 mol%. polyoxypropylene units and from about 50 to about 100 mol%. polyoxyethylene units, at least one terminal portion of said polyoxyalkene moiety is bound to said polydiorganosiloxane moiety, any terminal portion of said polyoxyalkene moiety not bound to said polydiorganosiloxane moiety is terminated with a terminal radical; by weight, the ratio of polydiorganosiloxane moieties to polyoxyalkene moieties in said copolymer has a value of from about 2 to about 8. Said polymers are described in US-A-4,268,499.

Preferred for use in the invention are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkene copolymers having the general formula:

·· ····

CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 ) is from about 0.5 to about 1 and R is a chain end group selected primarily from the group consisting of hydrogen, hydroxy, alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, such as phenyl; alkoxy, such as methoxy ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy; benzyloxy; aryloxy such as phenoxy; alkenylpxy such as vinyloxy and allyloxy; acyloxy such as acetoxy, acryloxy and propionoxy; and amino such as dimethylamino.

The number and average molecular weights of the copolymer moieties are such that the weight ratio of the polydiorganosiloxane moieties to the polyoxyalkene moieties in the copolymers is preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.0.

Suitable copolymers are commercially available under the trade names Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Qhemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL, e.g., Belgium (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183. A particularly preferred copolymer for use in the invention includes Dow Corning DC3225C having the CTFA designation "Dimethicone / Dimethicone copolyol".

In a preferred composition), the third oil phase is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight. means. The third oil phase may be either a separate phase or form one phase together with one or both of the first and second silicone phases. The third oil phase is preferably a separate phase.

The third oil phase preferably comprises a non-silicone organic oil, such as a natural or synthetic oil selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof, the ingredients of which are useful to achieve the emollient cosmetic properties. . The first component of the oil phase preferably does not contain silicone, i.e., it does not contain more than about 10%, preferably 4 4 4 44 4 4

4 4 4 4 4 4

4445 44 4 4

444445 44 4

4445 4 4

% Not more than about 5 wt. silicone based materials. It will be appreciated that the oil phase may comprise, for example, up to about 25%, preferably only up to about 10%, of the oil phase of the soluble emulsifier. Such impurities are not considered to be the oil components of the phase in terms of determining the oil level of the phase and the desired HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance). In a preferred composition, the total desired HLB of the oil phase is from about 8 to about 12, in particular from about 9 to about 11, the desired HLB being determined by the sum of the individual desired HLB values for each oil phase component multiplied by W / W (weight ratio) phase (see ICI HLB System Literature; ICI reference 51/0010/303 / 15m., first edition 1976, revision 1984 and May, 1992).

Components of the first oil phase suitable for use in the invention include, e.g., optionally hydroxy substituted C ₈ -C _5Q unsaturated fatty acids and their esters; beeswax; saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol; hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-3988255, Seiden, issued October 26, 1976); lanolin and lanolin derivatives; animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, apricot oil, nut oil, palm oil, pistachio oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, juniper oil, corn oil, peach oil, poppy oil, soybean oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grape oil, shea butter, shorea butter and sunflower oil; and CrC ₂₄ esters of dimers and trimers of acids, such as diisopropyldimerate, diisostearyl malate, diisostearyl dimimerate and triisostearyltrimerate. Of these, mineral oils, petrolatum, unsaturated fatty acids and their esters and mixtures thereof are very preferred.

Preferred compositions of the invention comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight. unsaturated fatty acids or ester. Unsaturated fatty acids and esters suitable for use in the invention are optionally hydroxy substituted C ₈ -C 50 unsaturated fatty acids and esters, especially esters of ricinoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid or ester component is preferred for the purposes of the invention in combination with a liquid crystal-forming emulsifier to improve the skin sensitivity and contactability characteristics of the composition. Cetylricinoleate is very preferred in this respect.

Amphiphilic surfactant

Another preferred component of the compositions of the invention is an organic amphiphilic surfactant which is capable of forming smectic lyotropic crystals in the product or when the product is applied to the skin at room or elevated temperature. The amphiphilic surfactant is preferably capable of forming liquid crystals at a temperature in the range of from about 20 ° C to about

43 ► 4 4 4 ► 4 4 4

444 444 ° C. The amphiphilic surfactant is preferably capable of forming smectic lyotropic liquid crystals. Once the product has been applied to the skin, it is not possible to identify liquid crystals on the surface of the skin or the horn layer. The amphiphilic surfactant is preferably present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight.

Amphiphilic liquid crystal forming surfactants suitable for use in the invention contain both a hydrophilic and a lipophilic moiety and show a significant tendency to adsorb on the surface or interface, i.e., they are surface active. Amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use in the invention include nonionic (no charge), anionic (negative charge), cationic (positive charge), and amphoteric (both charges) based on whether or not they ionize in an aqueous environment.

Liquid crystals are also referred to in the literature as anisotropic liquids, the fourth stage of the substance, the bound structure of the surfactant or the interphase. These terms are often used interchangeably. The term "lyotropic" refers to a liquid crystalline system containing a polar solvent, such as water. The liquid crystals useful for the purposes of the invention are preferably lamellar, hexagonal, acicular or blister or mixed structures of these types may occur.

The liquid crystalline phase utilized in the compositions of the invention can be determined in various ways. The liquid crystalline phase flows under shear and is characterized by a viscosity that is significantly different from that of its isotropic solution phase. Rigid gels do not shear like liquid crystals. Also, liquid crystals, when viewed by polarized microscope light, exhibit identifiable birefringence, such as planar lamellar birefringence, while when isotropic solutions and solid gels are viewed under polarized light, both structures show dark fields.

Other suitable means for determining liquid crystals include X-ray diffraction, nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy, and transmission electron microscopy (TEM).

The organic amphiphilic surfactant preferred for use in the invention may be described by general terms as a liquid semi-solid or waxy water dispersible substance having the formula X-Y, wherein X is a hydrophilic, especially nonionic moiety, and Y is a lipophilic moiety.

Organic amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use in the invention include those having a weighted average HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) ranging from about 2 to about 12, preferably from about 4 to about 8.

Preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants useful in the invention have a long, saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear lipophilic chain containing from about 12 · 4 · 4

444 • 4

444 44 4 4442

444 4 4 4 4 4 444 4 · <

• 1 2 3 4 «

Up to about 30 carbon atoms, such as an oil, lanol, tetradecyl, hexadecyl, isostearyl, lauric, coconut, stearic or alkylphenyl chain. If the hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic material forming the liquid crystalline phase is a nonionic group, polyoxygthylene, polyglycerol, polyol ester of oxyalkylated or not, and, for example, polyoxyalkylated sarbitol or sugar ester may be used. When the hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic surfactant forming the liquid crystalline phase is a nonionic group, the phosphatidylcholine residue found in lecithin m (can be advantageously used as a hydrophilic group at this point).

The hydrophilic moieties suitable for use are selected from the group consisting of;

(1) linear or branched polyglycerol ethers having the following formula:

R- (Gly) _n -OH wherein n is an integer from 1 to 6, R is selected from aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated chains of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon radicals of lanolin alcohols and 2-hydroxyalkyl radicals of long chains, α-diols and Gly represent a plycerol residue;

(2) polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, e.g., alcohols of formula R ¹ (C ₂ R ₄ O) _X OH, wherein R ¹ is a C 12 -C 30 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl ax on average from about 0 to about 20, preferably about 0.1 to about 6, more preferably from about 1 to about 4;

(3) polyol esters and polyalkoxylated polyol esters and mixtures thereof, polyhydric alcohols are preferably selected from the group consisting of sugars, C 2 -C ₆ alkenglycols, glycerol, polyglycerols, sorbitol, sorbitan, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, and wherein the polyalkoxylated esters of polyhydric alcohols 2 to about 20, preferably from about 2 to about 4 moles of alkenoxide (especially ethylene oxide) per mole of polyhydric alcohol ester;

(4) natural and synthetic phosphoglycerides, glycolipids and sphingolipids, eg cerebrosides, ceramides and lecithin.

Examples of amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein include amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants containing C ₈ -C 30 alkyl and acyl, which are listed below.

Suitable amphoteric surfactants include, e.g., N-alkylamino acids (e.g., sodium alkylaminoacetate) and N-lauroylglutamic acid cholesterol ester (e.g., Eldew CL-301 Ajinomoto).

Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include, eg, acylgluamates (eg, disodium N-lauroylglutamate); sarcosinates (eg, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, Grace, Seppic);

9

999 • 99 99

9 9

99

9 9 9

9 9 9

999 999

9

99 taurates (eg, sodium lauryttaurate, methyl 'sodium cocoyl-taurate (cocoyl - coconut alkyl alkyl substituent)); carboxylic acids and salts (eg, potassium oleate; potassium laurate; potassium 10-decenoate; potassium 11- (p-styryl) -undecanoate); ethoxylated salts of carboxylic acids (eg, sodium ethoxylated carboxymethylalkyl); carboxylic acid ethers; phosphoric acid esters and salts (eg, lecithin; DEA-oleth-10 phosphate); acyl isethionates (eg, sodium 2-lauroyloxyethane sulfonate); alkanesulfonates (eg, branched sodium x-alkanesulfonate (x / l)); sulfosuccinates (eg, sodium dibutylsulfosuccinate, sodium di-2-pentylsulfosuccinate, sodium di-2-ethylbutylsulfosuccinate, sodium di-hexylsulfosuccinate, sodium di-2-ethylhexylsulfosuccinate, sodium di-2-ethyldodecylsulfosuccinate, di-2-ethylsulfosuccinate "Laureth" disodium sulphosuccinate (MacKanate El, McCltyre Group Ltd.)); sulfuric acid esters (eg, sodium 2-ethylhept-6-enyl sulfate; sodium 11-heneicosyl sulfate; sodium 9-heptadecyl sulfate); alkyl sulfates (eg, MEA alkyl sulfate, such as MEA-lauryl sulfate). Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include, eg, alkylimidazolines (eg, alkylhydroxyethylimidazoline, stearylhydroxyethylimidazoline (supplied by Akzo, Finetex and Hoechst)); ethoxylated amines (eg PEG-n alkylamine; PEG-n alkylaminopropylamine; "poloxamine", PEG-"coco" polyamine; PEG-15 "tallow" amine (tallow alkyl tallow); alkylamines (eg dimethylalkylamine; dihydroxyethylalkylaminediol). surfactants of the invention also include, eg, quaternary agents, such as alkylbenzyldimethylammonium salts (e.g., stearalkonium chloride), alkylbetaines (e.g., dodecyldimethylammonioacetate; oleylbetaine), heterocyclic ammonium salts (e.g., alkylethylmorpholinium ethoxysulfate); quaternary ammonium chloride (Witco)), bisisostearamidopropylhydroxypropyldiammonium chloride (Schercoquat 21AP from Scher Chemicals), 1,8-bis- (decyldimethylammonio) -3,6-dioxaoctanditosylate.

Examples of nonionic surfactants, non-limiting in scope, include, e.g., ethoxylated glycerides; monoglycerides (eg, monoolein; monolinolein; monolaurin; 1-dodecanoyl-glycerol monolaurine; 1,13-docosanoylglycerol-monoerucine); diglyceride fatty acids (eg, diglycerol mono isostearate Cosmol 41, fractionated, Nisshin Oil Mills Ltd.); polyglyceryl esters (eg, triglycerol monooleate (Grindsted TS-T122); diglycerol monooleate (Grindsted TST-T101); polyhydric alcohol esters and ethers (eg, "sucrose cocoate (cocoate - basket oil salt); cetostearylglucoside (Montanol, Sepharose)"); , such as C ₀ -C ₆ (Henkel)); phosphoric acid diesters (e.g., sodium dioleyl phosphate); alkylamidopropylbetaine (e.g.

coco amidopropylbetaine); an amide (eg, N- (dodecanoylaminoethyl) -2-pyrrolidone); amide oxide (e.g., 1,1-dihydroperfluorooctyldimethylamine oxide; dodecyldimethylamine oxide; 2hydroxydodecyldimethylamine oxide; 2-hydroxydodecyl-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) amine oxide; 2-hydroxy-4-oxahexadecyldimethylamine oxide; ethoxylated amides (e.g., PEG);

99

9 9 9 ·· 9

9 999

9 9

99

9

9

9 9

9 9

9 9

4 · «·· · 4 · 9 · 4 · 9

9

99 (eg, didecanoylpcitin); an amine (e.g., octylamine); ammonioamides (eg, N-trimethylammoniododecanamide, N-trimethylammoniododecanamide); ammonium carboxylates (eg, dodecyldimethylammonioacetate; 6-didodecylmethylammonio caproate); phosphonic and phosphoric acid esters and amides (eg, methyl N-methyl-dodecylphosphoamide; dimethyldodecylphosphonate; dodecylmethylmethylphosphonate; Ν, Ν-dimethyldodecylphosphonic diamide); ethoxylated alcohols; polyoxyethylene ( _C8 ) (e.g. pentaoxyethylene glycol-pn-octylphenyl ether; hexaoxyethylene glycol-pn-octylphenyl ether; nonaoxyethylene glycol-pn-octylphenyl ether); polyoxyethylene _(1o C) (e.g. pentaoxyethylenglykql-pn decylfenylether; decylglycerylether; 4-oxatetradekan-1,2-diol; nonaoxyethylenglyko | -Pn-decylfenylether); polyoxyethylene (C _n ) (eg, tetraoxyethylene glycolundecyl ether); polyoxyethylene (C ₁₂ ) (eg, 3,6,9,13-tetraoxapentacosan-1,11-diol; 3,6,10trioxadocosan-1,8-diol; 3,6,9,12,16-pentaoxaoctacosan-1, 14-diol, 3,6,9,12,15pentaoxanoneacosan-1,17-diol, 3,7-dioxanone-decane-1,5-diol, 3,6,12,15,19hexaoxahentriacontane-1,16-diol, pentaoxyethylene glycol dodecyl ether; nonaoxyethylene glycol-p-dodecylphenyl ether); polyoxyethylene (C ₁₄ ) (eg, 3,6,9,12,16-pentaoxaoctacosan-1,14-diol; 3,6,9,12,15,19-hexaoxatriacontane-1,17-diol); sulfondiimines (eg, decylmethylsulfondiimine); sulfoxides (e.g., 3-decyloxy-2-hydroxypropylmethylsulfoxide; 4-decyloxy-3-hydroxybutylmethylsulfoxide); sulfoximines (eg, N-methyldodecylmethylsulfoximine).

The organic amphiphilic surfactant preferred for use herein are nonionic surfactants having a hydrophilic moiety selected from the group consisting of polyol esters and polyalkoxylated polyol esters, and mixtures thereof, polyhydric alcohols are preferably selected from the group consisting of sugars, C ₂ -C ₆ alkylene glycols , glycerol, polyglycerols, sorbitol, sorbitan, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols and wherein the polyalkoxylated polyhydric alcohol esters contain from about 2 to about 20, preferably from about 2 to about 4 moles of alkenoxide (especially ethylene oxide) per mole of polyhydric alcohol ester, and lipophilic moiety is selected from long saturated or unsaturated branched chains or linear lipophilic chains having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, such as oily, lanol, tetradecyl, hexadecyl, isostea alkyl, lauric, coconut, stearic or alkylphenyl chains.

The organic amphiphilic surfactants highly preferred for use in the invention are selected from esters and ethers of polyhydric alcohols. Highly preferred amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are sugar esters and polyalkoxylated sugar esters.

Sugar esters for use in the invention may be referred to as hydrocarbyl and alkyl polyoxyalkene esters of cyclic polyhydroxysaccharides in which one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the carbohydrate moiety is substituted with an acyl or polyoxyalkene group. Hydrocarbyl sugar esters can be prepared well25 • 9 99 ♦ 9 · 9

9 9 9 9

9 9

9 9 9 * 999 * · 9

9 «

9 9

9 9 • 9 9

9 9

9 9 9

9 9 9 • 999,999

9

99 in a known manner by heating an acid or acid halide with a sugar, i.e., a simple esterification reaction.

Sugars used in the preparation of sugar esters include monosaccharides, disaccharides and oligosaccharides well known in the art, eg, dextrorotatory or levorotatory forms of glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, and xylose. Common disaccharides include maltose, cellobiose, lactose and trehalose. Common trisaccharides include raffinose and gentianosis. Disaccharides are preferred for use in the invention, particularly sucrose.

Sucrose may be esterified to one or more of its eight hydroxyl groups thus providing sucrose esters useful in the invention. When sucrose is combined with an esterifying agent in a 1: 1 molar ratio, sucrose monoesters are prepared; if the ratio of the estgrifying agent to sucrose is 2: 1 or higher, di-, tri-, etc. esters, up to a maximum of octaesters, are prepared.

Preferred sugar esters at this site are esters prepared by esterifying sugars at a molar ratio of esterifying agent to sugar of 1: 1 and 3: 1, i.e., monoacyl and di or higher acyl sugar esters. Particularly preferred are mono-, di- and triacyl esters of sugars and mixtures thereof wherein the acyl substituents contain from about 8 to about 24, preferably from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms and 0, 1 or 2 unsaturated moieties. Of the mono-acyl and di-acyl sugar esters, particular preference is given to the corresponding disaccharide esters, in particular sucrose, in which the acyl groups contain from about 18 to about 20 carbon atoms. Preferred sugar esters of the invention are sucrose cocoate (coconut-coconut oil salt), sucrose monocaprylate, sucrose monocaprate, sucrose monolaurate, sucrose monopalmitate, sucrose monostearate, sucrose monooleate, sucrose dioleateate, sucrose dioleateate, sucrose dioleateate, sucrose dioleateate, sucrose dioleateate. sucrose distearate, sucrose dilaurate and sucrose dilinoleate and mixtures thereof. The sucrose cocoate has been found to be very effective in the compositions of the invention. In mixtures of mono-acyl sugar esters with di-, tri- and higher sugar acyl esters, the mono- and diacyl esters preferably comprise at least about 40%, more preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight. total mixtures of sugar esters.

Other sugar esters suitable for use in this invention are alkylpolyoxyalkenestqry sugar esters wherein one hydroxyl group is substituted with a C ₈ Cie alkyl skupinqu and in which one or more hydroxyl groups on the sugar molecule are replaced by an ester or ether substituent containing the moiety _[(CH2 ) _x -O] _y in which x is an integer from 2 to about 4, preferably 2, and wherein y is an integer from about 1 to about 50, preferably 8 to 30 polyoxyalkylene substituents. Highly preferred for the purposes of the invention are sugar esters in which the polyoxyalkene substituent is a polyoxyethylene substituent containing from about 8 to about 30 polyoxyethylene groups. The following materials, in which sorbitan is a part of the sugar, are commercially available: sor sor obchod obchod * * * * * · · ®

φ φ φ φ φ · · • dostupné dostupné dostupnéφ dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné dostupné Said mixed esters may be prepared by first acylating the sugar in a molar ratio of 1: 1 with a hydrocarbyl acid halide, followed by reaction with the corresponding polyoxyalkene acid halide or alkenoxide to give the desired material. Simple polyoxyalkene esters of disaccharides, particularly sucrose, in which the polyoxyalkene groups contain up to about 20 alkenoxide moieties, are another useful class of sugar esters for the purposes of the invention. A preferred sugar ester of this class is sorbitol trioleate ethoxylated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide. Mixtures of sugar esters with other polyhydric alcohol esters, such as glycerol esters, are also suitable for use in the invention, such as sucrose glyceride of palm oil (Rhone-Poulenc).

The term "lecithin" as used herein refers to a phosphatide material. Naturally occurring or synthetic phosphatides may be used. Phosphatidylcholine or lecithin is a glycerin esterified with a choline ester of phosphoric acid and two fatty acids, usually saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having long chains of 16 to 20 carbon atoms and up to 4 double bonds. Other phosphatides capable of forming lamellar or hexagonal liquid crystals may be used in place of lecithin or in combination with lecithin. These phosphatides are glycerol esters with two fatty acids as in lecithin, but choline is exchanged for ethanolamine (kephalin) or serine (aminopropanoic acid; phosphatidylserine) or inositol (phosphatidylinositol). While the invention at this site is exemplified by lecithin, it is clear that these other phosphatides can also be used at this site.

Lecithin variants may also be used. The American Lecithin Company supplies Nattermann Phospholipid, Phospholipan 80 and Phosal 75. Other types of lecithins that can be used alone or in combination with this include: Actifla series, Centrocap series, Central Ca, Central series, Centrolene, Centrolex, Centromix, Centrophase and Centrolphil series from Central Soya; Alcolec and Alcolec 439-C from American Lecithin; Canaspersa from Canada Packers; Lexin Ka Natipide from American Lecithin; and L-Clearate, Clearate LV, and Clearate WD from W.A. Cleary Co. Lecithins are supplied dissolved in ethanol, fatty acids, triglycerides and other solvents. The materials usually represent mixtures of lecithins and the supplied ones represent 15% to 50% solutions.

Both natural and synthetic lecithins can be used. Natural lecithins are obtained from oilseeds such as sunflower, soy, safflower and cottonseed. Lecithins are separated from the oil during the purification process.

The organic amphiphilic surfactant has been found to be particularly advantageous in the invention for improving the stability and skin sensitivity characteristics of the compositions of the invention.

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ··················

The amphiphilic surfactant is preferably incorporated into the compositions in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 8% by weight. means.

Highly preferred for use herein is a fatty acid ester blend based on a mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid esters and sucrose fatty acid ester, the fatty acid in each instance is preferably _{C8-C 2} 4, more preferably _C10 -C2o. A preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier is a mixture of a sorbitan ester or a sorbitol ester of a C ₁₆ -C 20 fatty acid with a sucrose C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ fatty acid ester, in particular sorbitan stearate and sucrose "cocoate". This substance is commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121.

A highly preferred ingredient of the compositions of the invention is urea, which is preferably present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight. means.

The oil phase and the organic amphiphilic surfactant, if present, are preferably premixed in water at a temperature above the Kraft point of the organic amphiphilic surfactant (but preferably less than 60 ° C) to prepare a liquid crystalline / oil in water. dispersion, prior to delivery of urea. Urea has been found to be very effective for the purposes of the invention in combination with an amphiphilic emulsifying surfactant and a polyhydric alcohol fatty acid polyester, providing excellent skin hydration and softening in conjunction with an "oil in water" cosmetic emulsion composition. Moreover, it has surprisingly been found that urea has been shown to be more stable to hydrolytic cleavage, thereby allowing the pH of the composition to be increased.

Vitamin B ₃ component

The present invention compositions may also comprise a safe and effective amount of vitamin 0 _3. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, particularly preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, and particularly preferably from about 1% to about 5% most preferably from about 2% to about 5% of a vitamin B ₃ compound.

The term "vitamin B ₃ compound" as used herein refers to a compound having the formula:

···· · · ···· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·· · · · · ·

wherein R is -CONH ₂ (i.e. niacinamide), -COOH (i.e. nicotinic acid) or CH ₂ OH (i.e. nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the above groups.

Examples of derivatives of the above vitamin B ₃ compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating nicotinic acid esters, nicotinylamino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide-N-oxide. Suitable nicotinic acid esters include nicotinic acid esters of C 1 -C 22 alcohols, preferably C 1 -C ₁₆ alcohols, more preferably C 1 -C ₆ alcohols. The alcohols preferably have straight or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic) and substituted or qubstituted chains. The esters are preferably non-vasodilating. As used herein, the term "non-vasodilatory" indicates that the ester does not usually leave a visible cleansing reaction after application of the compositions of the invention to the skin (most of the total population will not test for a visible cleansing reaction, although said compositions may cause vasodilation invisible to the naked eye). Non-vasodilatory esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinate is preferred.

Other derivatives of the vitamin B ₃ compound are derivatives of niacinamide resulting from the substitution of one or more hydrogen of the amide groups. Non-limiting examples of niacinamide derivatives useful in the invention include nicotinylamino acids derived eg from the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (eg nicotinic azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid; and nicotinyl alcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (e.g., C 1 -C ₁₈ ). Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinic acid (C ₈ H ₈ N ₂ O ₃ ) and nicotinylhydroxamic acid (C ₆ H ₆ N ₂ O ₂ ) having the following chemical structures:

Nicotinuric acid #:

nicotinylhydroxamic acid:

Examples of nicotinylalcohol esters include nicotinylalcohol esters of carboxylic acids, salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid and the like. Other non-limiting examples of vitamin B ₃ compounds useful herein are those 2chloronikotinamid, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, n-methylnicotinamide, n, ndiethylnikotinamid, N- (hydroxymethyl) -nicotinamide, quinolinic acid amide, nicotinanilide, nbenzylnikotinamid, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaidehyd, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide (2- [2- (benzylcarbamoyl) ethyl] hydrazine isonicotinic acid), 1- (3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niacin.

Examples of the above vitamin B ₃ compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources, eg, Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and the Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).

One or more vitamin B ₃ compounds may be used for the purposes of the invention. Preferred vitamin B ₃ compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred. When gpli, niacinamide salt derivatives and derivatives are used, these preferably represent compounds having substantially the same potency as niacinamide in the skin condition treatment methods described herein.

• · · ·

Salts of the vitamin B ₃ compound can also be used for the purposes of the invention. Non-limiting examples of salts of the vitamin B ₃ compound useful for the purposes of the invention include organic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with sanionic inorganic substances (eg chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and organic salts of carboxylic acids (including mono-, dia- tri- salts _Ci-Ci8 carboxylic acids, e.g., acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferably monocarboxylic acid salts such as acetate). These and other salts of the vitamin B ₃ compound can be readily prepared by one of ordinary skill in the art, e.g. as described by W. Wenner, "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-losascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide" losascorbic acids with nicotinic acid and its amide), J. Organic Chemistry, vol. 14, 22-26 (1949), the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. Wenner describes the synthesis of a salt of niacinamide ascorbic acid.

In preferred compositions, the ring nitrogen of the vitamin B ₃ compound is substantially chemically free (eg, unbound and / or non-free) or becomes substantially chemically free upon application to the skin ("chemically free" is hereinafter optionally referred to as "incomplete"). More preferably, the vitamin B ₃ compound is basically incomplete. Therefore, if the composition comprises a vitamin B ₃ compound in the form of a salt or otherwise compounded form, such a unit is preferably substantially reversible, more preferably basically reversible, after application of the composition to the skin. E.g. such a unit should be substantially reversible at a pH of about 5.0 to about 6.0. Said reversibility can be readily ascertained by one of ordinary skill in the art.

More preferably, the vitamin B ₃ compound is substantially incomplete in the composition prior to application to the skin. Examples of approaches to minimizing or preventing the formation of unwanted wholes include omitting materials that form substantially irreversible or other wholes with a vitamin B ₃ compound, adjusting the pH factor, adjusting ionic strength, using surfactants, and a formulation in which the vitamin B ₃ compound and materials they form a whole with this compound, they are in different phases. These approaches are manageable on the level of common practice in the field.

Vitamin E compounds _3} in the preferred composition therefore contains a limited amount of the salt form and more preferably substantially free of salts of the vitamin B _3rd The vitamin B ₃ compound preferably contains less than about 50% of such a salt and preferably is essentially free of salts. The vitamin B ₃ compound in compositions of the invention having a pH of from about 4 to about 7 typically contains less than about 50% salt form.

The vitamin B3 compound may be included as a substantially pure material or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural (eg, plant) sources. The vitamin B9 compound is preferably substantially pure, more preferably substantially pure.

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

Retinoids

The compositions of the present invention in preferred compositions also comprise a retinoid. The vitamin B ₃ compound and the retinoid provide unexpected benefits in skin condition control, especially in therapeutically treated signs of skin aging, particularly wrinkles, lines and pores. The assumption, without being bound or otherwise limited to theory, is that the vitamin B ₃ compound enhances the conversion of certain retinoids to trans-retinoic acid, which is considered to be a biologically active form of retinoids providing synergistic skin condition (i.e., increased conversion to retinol, esters of retinol and retinal). Additionally, the vitamin B ₃ compound unexpectedly relieves redness, inflammation, skin inflammation, and the like, which may otherwise be associated with topical application of retinoids (often referred to as &quot; retinoid skin inflammations &quot; in the text). Furthermore, the secreted vitamin B ₃ compound and retinoids lead to an increase in the amount and activity of thioredoxin, which leads to an increase in collagen expression levels by the AP-1 protein. Therefore, the present invention allows reduced active levels and thus reduced possibility of terinoid skin inflammations while maintaining the significant positive benefits of skin conditioning. Additionally, high levels of retinoids can still be used to provide higher skin conditioning efficacy without undesirable retinoid skin inflammation.

The term "retinoid", as used in aunt, includes all natural and / or synthetic vitamin A analogues or retinol-like compounds having the biological effects of vitamin A on the skin, as well as geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C 2 -C 22 alkyl retinol esters including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinylropionane), retinal and / or retinoic acid (including all trans forms of retinoic acid and / or 13-cis-retinoic acid), preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources, such as Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO) and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Other retinoids that are useful in the invention are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,677,120, issued June 30, 1987 to Parish et al .; No. 4,885,311, issued Dec. 5, 1989 to Parish et al .; 5,049,584, issued September 17, 1991 to Purcell et al .; No. 5,124,356, issued June 23, 1992 to Purcell et al .; and a new edition of 34,075, issued September 22, 1992 by Purcell et al. Other suitable retinoids are tocopheryl retinoate [retinoic acid tocopherol ester (trans- or cis-)], adapalene {6- [3- (1-adamantyl) -4-methoxyphenyl] -2-naphthoic acid}, and tazarotene (ethyl 6- [2- (4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl) ethynyl] nicotinate). One or more retinoids may be used for the purposes of the invention. Advantageous 9,999 9

9 9 9 9 9 · · · · ·

9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

9,999,999 9,999,999

9 9 9 9 9 9

Retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionane, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate.

The retinoid may be included as a substantially pure material or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural (eg, plant) sources. The retinoid is preferably substantially pure, more preferably substantially pure.

The compositions of the invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of retinoid such that the resulting composition is safe and effective for correcting the skin condition, preferably for correcting visible and / or palpable skin irregularities, more preferably for modifying skin aging features, more preferably even for modifying visible and / or palpable skin texture irregularities associated with skin aging. The compositions preferably comprise from about 0.005% to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 2% of the retinoid. Most preferably, retinol is used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 0.15%; retinol esters are most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2% (eg, about 1%); retinoic acid is most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 0.25%; tocopheryl retinoate [retinoic acid tocopherol ester (trans- or cis-)], adapalene {6- [3- (1-adamantyl) -4-methoxyphenyl] -2-naphthoic acid} and tazarotene are most preferably used in an amount of about pd 0.01% to about 2%. If the composition comprises a retinoid, the vitamin E ₁₃ compound is preferably used in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5%.

PH factor balancing agent

A pH buffering agent may be present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention. The pH buffering agent prevents the distribution of impurities, especially ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resulting in maximum product stability. The optimum pH is determined by the selection of the ascorbic acid compound. E.g. if the cosmetic composition comprises magnesium L-ascorbylphosphate, the optimum pH of the composition is about 7.0 to 8.0. Suitable pH adjusting agents for use in the invention include acetate, phosphate, citrate, triethanolamine and carbonate. Combinations of the above agents are often used to adjust specific pH values optimized for the composition. The overall levels of pH adjusters are from 0.01 to 5.0%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.0% of the composition.

• 4 • 4444

Antioxidant

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also include antioxidant variants to enhance the stability of the product, particularly to prevent oxidation of ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof. Preferred antioxidants are d-6-tocopherol, tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, added and sulfates. Antioxidant levels are from 0.01% to 5.0%, preferably from 0.1% to 1.0% of the composition.

Humidifiers

The cosmetic composition to be used as a skin composition may optionally be formulated (a wide variety of ingredients. The ingredients include humectants, gelling agents and the like, which can be co-delivered to the composition.

The cosmetic skin composition of the invention may further comprise a humectant suitable for use in the cosmetic skin composition. Humectants suitable for use in the invention include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, hexanetriol, glycerin, glycine, hyaluronic acid, arginine, Ajidew (NaPCA), polyglycerylmethacrylic acid, water-soluble lubricants, and water-soluble lubricants. A preferred humectant at this point is glycerin (sometimes known as glycerol or glycerin). Chemically, glycerine is 1,2,3-propanetriol, which is a commercial product. One great source of this material is soap making. Glycerin is particularly preferred in the compositions of the invention in view of promoting hydration. Butyl glycol is also preferred for use in the invention. A combination of glycerin and urea is very advantageous in terms of promoting hydration.

The humectant is preferably present in the present compositions at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% to about 15% and most preferably from about 5% to about 15% by weight. means.

Plygyceryl methacrylate lubricants suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are available under the trade name Lubrajel (RTM) from Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. 11787. In general, materials of the Lubrajel series can be described as hydrates or clathrates (which are prepared by the reaction of sodium glycerate and a methacrylic acid polymer. Further, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration). a wide range of varying glycerate: polymer ratios and viscosity values.

Lubrajel materials include Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and the so-called Lubrajel Oil.

At least a part (up to about 5% by weight of the composition) of the humectant may be incorporated in admixture with a bulk lipophilic or hydrophilic carrier material. The carrier material and the humectant may be (supplied either to the aqueous phase or to the disperse phase).

This copolymer is particularly advantageous for gloss reduction and oil control, while helping to provide effective hydration benefits. The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient uniformly dispersed throughout the lattice and trapped within the copolymer lattice. Alternatively, the hydrophobic polymer can take the form of a porous particle having a surface area (BET N _{2 l)} in the range from about 50 to 500, preferably from 10 to 30Q m ² .g ^-1 and having the active ingredient absorbed therein.

The crosslinked hydrophobic polymer is preferably present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight. and is preferably incorporated in the external aqueous phase. The active ingredient may be one or more or a mixture of skin-compatible oils, skin-compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizers, and sunscreen agents. The polymer material is in one unit in the form of a bulk material (powder), the bulk material is a combined particle system. The bulk particulate system is a lattice system that includes single particles having an average diameter of less than about one micron, fused individual particle clusters ranging in size from about 2 to 100 microns in average diameter, and clusters of clustered conjugate clusters ranging from about 200 to about 100 microns in diameter. 1,200 microns in average diameter.

The bulk material of this whole can be widely described as a cross-linked "post-absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice. . The powder preferably has entrapped and dispersed therein an active substance, which may be in the form of a solid, a liquid, a gas. The grid is in particulate form and, when filled with active material, forms free-flowing fine solid particles. The grid may contain a predetermined amount of active material. A suitable polymer has a structural formula;

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<L = 0

ir

4 «4444

4 · ·. 4

4 4 4 4 ·

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4 4 4 *

4 · ·· ··

4 · 44 • 44 44 44 44 444

4 in which the ratio xky to 80:20, R 'is -CH 2 CH 2 - and R is - (CH ₂ ) n CH ₃ . The hydrophobic polymer is a strongly cross-linked polymer, in particular a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer. The material is manufactured by Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Michigan, USA and sold under the trade name POLYTRAP (RTM). It is a very light, free-flowing white powder whose particles are capable of absorbing large levels of lipophilic fluids and some hydrophilic fluids, while maintaining the free-flowing character of the powder at the same time. The powder structure consists of a grid having a particle size of less than one micron, fused to clusters of 20 to 100 microns and clusters tightly stacked into macro-particles or aggregates of about 200 to about 1200 microns. The polymer powder is capable of containing up to four times its weight of liquids, emulsions, dispersions or dissolved solids.

The adsorption of the active substances to the polymer powder can be carried out using a mixing vessel with a spoon in which the active substance is supplied to the powder and a spoon is used to gently mix the active substance into the polymer powder. Fluids having a low viscosity can be adsorbed by delivering the fluids to a sealable container containing the polymer and rolling the materials until consistency. More sophisticated mixing devices, such as a belt mixer and a double cone mixer, can also be used. Glycerin is a preferred active ingredient for use in the invention. The humectant: carrier weight ratio is preferably from about 1: 4 to about 3: 1.

A suitable strongly crosslinked polymethacrylate copolymer is also Microsponges 5647. This is in the form of mainly spherical particles of a crosslinked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from about 0.01 to about 0.05 µm and a surface area of 200 to 300 m ² / g. Again, it is preferably filled with a humectant at the levels described above.

Hydrophilic thickening agent

The cosmetic skin composition of the present invention may also include a hydrophilic thickening agent suitable for use in cosmetic skin compositions. The hydrophilic thickening agent is present at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.02% to about 5%. The hydrophilic thickener preferably has a viscosity (20 ° C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4,000 mPa · s, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa · s and most preferably at least 20,000 mPa · s.

Hydrophilic thickeners can generally be described as water-soluble or water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose); polyvinylpyrrolidone,

Β Β BB · Β

BB Β Β Β Β Β BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB · · · · · ·

Β Β Β Β Β Β

BB ΒΒ BB Β

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BB ΒΒ polyvinyl alcohol, guar polysaccharide, guar hydroxypropyl polysaccharide and xanthan gum.

A suitable hydrophilic thickening agent useful for the purposes of the present invention is a colloidal water dispersant thickener of inorganic minerals (colloidal mineral thickener). Examples of said colloidal mineral thickeners include, but are not limited to, kaolinite, montmorillonite, zeolite, hectrite, smectite, saponite. A preferred colloidal mineral thickener is synthetic hectrite (tradename: Lqponite), which is chemically determined as aqueous magnesium silicate. Peptizing agents including pyrophosphate, sulfate, acrylate, carbonate and phosphate are preferably supplied with the above-mentioned mineral thickening agents if the aqueous phase contains a high level of electrolyte.

Other hydrophilic thickeners include acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade names Qarbopol Resins. These are basically composed of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with from 0.75% to 3.00% crosslinking agent such as polyallylsaccharose or polyallylpentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941, Carbopol 950, CarboRol 954, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with approximately 1% polyallyl ether sucrose having an average of approximately 5.8 allyl groups to each sucrose molecule.

Suitable for use in the invention are hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic acid polymers preferably having amphipathic properties available under the trade names Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342, Carbopol ETD2020 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylates / 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosslinked Polymer). The most preferred polymer is Carbopol ETD2020. The combination of a polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked acrylic acid polymer and a hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable and preferred for use in the invention. Gelling agents for use in the invention are particularly advantageous for providing outstanding stability characteristics at both normal and elevated temperatures.

Other impurities

Other ingredients useful in the present cosmetic compositions, in addition to those listed above, include panthenol moisturizers such as D-panthenol; keratolytic agents / desquamming agents such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and their

44 44

4 4 4 4 4

4 4 4 4 4 • 4 4 4 4

44 44

44

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4 4 4

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4

44 derivatives; water-soluble or solubilizing preservatives preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about dq 5%, such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl esters of hydroxybenzic acid, benzylalkhol, EDTA, Euxyi (RTM) K400 Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) phenoxypropanol; antibacterial agents such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels from 0.1% to about 5%); soluble or colloidal soluble hydrating agents such as hyaluronic acid; and sodium starch grafted polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in US-A-4 076 663; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and vitamin K; α- and β-hydroxy acids; aloe vera; sphingosines and phytosphingosines; cholesterol; skin rejuvenating and smoothing agents; N-acetylcysteine; dyes; perfumes and perfume solubility enhancers; additional surfactants / emulsifying agents, such as ethoxylated fatty acid alcohols, ethoxylated polyhydric fatty acid alcohol esters, in which the polyhydric alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol, sorbitan, polypropylene glycol, glucose and sucrose. Examples include glyceryl monohydroxysitearate and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with an average of 10 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol and PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides.

The cosmetic composition of the invention may also be applied to the skunk-protecting composition. A wide variety of sunscreens are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445 to Haffey et al., Issued Feb. 11, 1992; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent 5,073,372 to Turner et al., Issued Dec. 17, 1991; U.S. Pat. U.S. Patent 5,073,371 to Turner et al., Issued Dec. 17, 1991; and Separin et al., in chapter Vlil, p. 189 et seq., &quot; Cosmetics Science and Technology. &quot; Of these sunscreens, preferred and useful in sunscreen compositions are those selected from the group consisting of: 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octacrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthylsalicylate, octylsalicylate, 4,4 ' -methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidenecaphen, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, Octocrylene, Parsol 1789 and mixtures thereof.

Other useful sunscreen agents include those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,937,370, to Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,999,186, issued to Sabatelli et al., Issued Mar. 12, 1991. The sunscreen compositions disclosed in these documents have two different chromophore portions per molecule that exhibit different ultraviolet absorption spectra. One of the chromophoric parts absorbs predominantly in the UVB range and the other absorbs strongly in the UVA range. These protective

The sunscreens provide greater efficacy, a wider spectrum of UV absorption, lower skin penetration, and a longer lasting effect compared to conventional sunscreens. Highly preferred examples of such sunscreens include those selected from the group consisting of 4-N, N '- (2-ethylhexyl) methylamino-benzoic acid 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone ester, 4-N, N' - (2-ethylhexyl) methylamino-benzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-4- 4N, N '- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone ester, 4-N, N' - (2-ethylhexyl) n-methylaminobenzoic acid 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethanester and mixtures thereof.

In general, sunscreen compositions may comprise from about 0.5% to about 20% of the compositions of the invention. The exact amount will vary depending on the sunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF). SPF is a commonly used measure of light protection of the skin flushing agent. See Federal Register, Volume 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, Aug. 25, 1978. The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight. starch aluminum octenyl succinate. Starch aluminum octenylsuccinate is an aluminum salt of the starch octenylsuccinic anhydride reaction product and is commercially available under the tradename Dry Flo from National Starch & Dry Flo is advantageous from the viewpoint of the invention for its skin contact and applicability characteristics.

Other sunscreen additives at this point include pigments which, if insoluble in water, are involved and included in the overall level of oil phase additives. The pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may be organic and / or inorganic. Also included in the term pigment are materials having low colouration or gloss, such as final confusing agents, as well as light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, iron acylglutamate oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine and mixtures thereof. Depending on the type of composition, a mixture of pigments will usually be used. Pigments preferred for use in the invention in terms of hydration, skin sensitivity to touch, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The pigments may be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils.

* 4 4 · 4 4 4

4 4 4

4 444

4 4

44

«4 44

4 4

4 4

4 4 4 4 4

4

4 «44

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples further describe and illustrate the units within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given for the purpose of illustration only and are not to be construed as limiting the present invention, without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, many variations are possible. The components set forth below can be prepared by any conventional method known in the art. Suitable methods and formulations are as follows:

Examples 1 to 6

Using conventional preparation methods, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are prepared from the following ingredients.

φ φ φ φ · · · · • • · · · · · · «φ φ φ φ φ φ • •« «« «φ φ φ φ φ

Admixture ¹ Ex. 1 Ex.2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex.5 Ex.6 Cetyl alcohol 0.72 0.72 0.72 0.72 0.72 0.72 Stearyl alcohol 0.48 0.48 0.48 0.48 0.48 0.48 Stearic acid 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 PEG-100 Stearate 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Arlatone 2121 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Methylisostearate 1.33 1.33 1.33 1.33 1.33 1.33 Propylparaben 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 Silicone Q21403 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Sacharidester fatty acid ¹ 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 1-3 Butylene glycol 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Glycerine 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 Sodium chloride 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Urea 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Aqueous magnesium silicate 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 Xanthan resinp 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Titanium dioxide 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Sodium citrate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 L-ascorbyl phosphate bitter 3.00 3.00 3.00 - - - Calcium L-ascorbyl phosphate - - - 3.00 3.00 3.00 Niacinamide - 5.00 5.00 - 5.00 5.00 Retinol - - 1.00 - - 1.00 EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Methylparaben 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 Distilled water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100

Fatty acid saccharide ¹ : CrC ₃₀ monoester or polyester of carbohydrates and one or more carboxylic acid moieties as described herein, preferably sucrose polyesters, wherein the degree of esterification is 7 to 8 and wherein the fatty acid moieties are C _1-8 mpno- and / or di unsaturated and behenic unsaturated: behenes ≥ 1: 7 to 3: 5; more preferably an octaester of sucrose in which about 7 parts of fatty behenic acid and about 1 part of oleic acid, eg, sucrose ester of fatty acids of cottonseed oil, eg SEFA Cottonate, are present in the molecule.

• 4,444

4 4 4 4 4 5

444445 44 4

The cosmetic compositions described above may advantageously be prepared as follows:

(1) Prepare an aqueous dispersion of aqueous magnesium silicate and heat the dispersion to about 75 ° C;

(2) Dissolve the water-soluble content except (1) and sodium citrate, magnesium L-ascorbyl phosphate, niacinamide and heat the solution to approximately 75 ° C;

(3) Mix (1) and (2) and maintain the temperature at 75 ° C;

(4) Heat the mixture of surfactants, oil components and silicone to approximately 80 ° C;

(5) Add the mixture (4) to the aqueous phase (3) followed by high pressure homogenization;

(6) Supply a separate aqueous solution of L-ascorbyl phosphate magnesium, sodium citrate and niacinamide as soon as the mixture (5) has cooled below approximately 40 ° C.

The compositions described and illustrated in the previous examples have many advantages. These compositions may, for example, provide improved skin feel upon touch, such as revitalizing and / or smoothing the skin, along with adjusting skin softness, skin softness and cosmetic characteristics of reduced grease, and excellent characteristics of wipability and rapid absorption.

It is clear that the foregoing detailed description of the examples and compositions of the present invention is given for illustration only, and that many modifications and variations will be apparent to those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention; and said obvious modifications and variations are included within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims (10)

PATENT CLAIMS A cosmetic product suitable for topical application to the skin or hair, comprising: (a, a liquid polyhydric alcohol ester of a carboxylic acid comprising a polyhydric alcohol moiety and at least 4 carboxylic acid moieties wherein the polyhydric alcohol moiety is selected from the group consisting of sugars and sugar alcohols containing from about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups in which each carboxylic acid moiety it contains from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms and wherein said liquid polyhydric alcohol ester of a carboxylic acid has a total melting point of less than about 30 ° C; (b) a softening material selected from the group consisting of compounds of Formula (I): R2 at. // Wr ⁰ ' ^X OR 4 (O wherein R ¹ is yoleno from hydrogen or CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from straight or branched alkyl, and x is an integer from 1 to 20; and compounds having formula (II): O _n il Rg—— C ..... ORq (II) · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · • ·· · · ·· ·· · «· ·· wherein R ₅ is selected from the group consisting of optionally hydroxy or _Ci-C4 alkyl substituted benzyl and _R6 is selected from the group consisting of _Ci-C2o branched or straight alkyl; and mixtures thereof; and (c) an ascorbic acid compound. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ascorbic acid compound is superior to ascorbic acid. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ascorbic acid compound is a salt of ascorbic acid. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the ascorbic acid salt is a metal ascorbate. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the ascorbic acid salt is a water-soluble ascorbyl ester. 6. A cosmetic composition intended to soften, soften and revitalize / straighten the skin, comprising: (a) from about 0.1% to about 10% of a liquid polyhydric alcohol ester of a carboxylic acid; (b, from about 0.1% to about 10% of the plasticizer material; and (c) from about 0.01% to about 20% of the ascorbic acid compound. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises ancillary compounds selected from the group consisting of a silicone, an amphiphilic surfactant, vitamin B ₃ , a retinoid, a moisture stabilizer, a hydrophilic gelling agent, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition of claim 7, wherein the silicone-containing phase comprises silicone or a mixture of silicones at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10 wt. and wherein the silicone or silicone composition comprises a silicone resin having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000. The cosmetic composition of claim 8, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises: (a) a liquid polyhydric alcohol ester of a carboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof; (b) a plasticizer material selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose, sucrose, and mixtures thereof; and (c) an ascorbic acid compound. 10. A cosmetic skin treatment composition comprising applying a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 6 to the skin.