CS273824B1 - Mixture for eyebrow pencil cores production for face cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

The mixture contains from 15 to 69 percent by weight of triglycerides of fatty acids characterized by iodine number ranging from 0 to 10 percent by weight with number of carbon atoms ranging from 16 to 22, from 6 to 60 percent by weight of triglycerides of fatty acids characterized by iodine number ranging from 50 to 100 percent by weight, from 10 to 50 percent by weight of colouring agents, and from 3 to 10 percent by weight of white petroleum jelly. The mixture can be eventually completed with 1 to 10 percent by weight of stearic or palmitic acid or their mixtures, from 1 to 20 percent by weight of bees wax, or eventually from 1 to 10 percent by weight of esters of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acids with number of carbon atoms ranging from 6 to 18 and single-function alcohols with number of carbon atoms from 1 to 18. The mixture can also contain emulsifier and physiologically active component in the amount of 0.5 to 10 percent by weight represented by at least one of the following substances: sodium, potassium, ammonium or calcium salts of phosphorylated diglycerides of fatty acids, sodium, potassium, ammonium or calcium salts of phosphorylated alkoxylated alcohols of overall number of carbon atoms ranging from 12 to 24, carbamide or amino acids characterized by range of electric points at pH from 6.53 to 5.07, optimally alanine, leucine, glycine.

Description

% glycerides of fatty acids characterized by an iodine number of 0 to 10 wt. % having a carbon number of 16 to 22, 6 to 60 wt. % triglycerides of fatty acids characterized by an iodine number of 50 to 100 wt. and 10 to 50 wt. % of coloring agents and 3 to 10 wt. white petrolatum. The mixture may be supplemented with 1 to 10 wt. % stearic or palmitic acid or mixtures thereof, 1 to 20 wt. % beeswax, optionally 1 to 10 wt. monocarboxylic and dicarboxylic acid esters having a carbon number of 6 to 18 and monohydric alcohols having a carbon number of 1 to 18. As emulsifier and physiologically active ingredient, the mixture may contain 0.5 to 10 wt. at least one of a group of substances such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or calcium salts of phosphorylated diglycerides of fatty acids, sodium, potassium, ammonium or calcium salts of phosphorylated alkoxilized alcohols having a total carbon number of 12 to 24, urea or amino acids characterized by isoelectric point range at pH 6.53 to 5.07, preferably alanine, leucine, glycine. .

273 824 Italy (11) (13) Bl · (51) Int. Cl. ⁵ AND 61 K 7 / 02.1

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CS 273 824 Bl

The invention relates to a composition for producing pencil cores intended for facial cosmetics.

Cosmetics for coloring the facial parts have been used since antiquity and traditionally consist of a pigment component, dispersed in a suitable matrix of a fat-yellow or waxy consistency. Consistency, health safety, and possible healing effects of such mixtures are nowadays a very important quality requirement. They are stored in pencil cases and applied almost daily, often repeatedly. The consistency must therefore suit the processing technology, the chemical composition of the consumer's hygiene requirements for spreadability, hiding power, sensory characteristics and washability.

Known recipes are based on natural waxes (carnauba, chinese, japanese, etc.) softened with fatty alcohols or oils, based on triglycerides of hydrocarbon fatty acids and fatty acids, adapted to the surface properties of the pigments used. The beneficial effects on the skin and sensory effect are achieved by ingredients based on fragrant natural or synthetic ingredients such as some bee products, plant extracts and active medicaments.

The disadvantage of most known formulations is lower mechanical strength and insufficient surface homogeneity of the layers at longer spacing after application to the skin. Another disadvantage is the drying caused by the partial infiltration of the fatty components contained in the core into the wood sheath. For example, a composition consisting of a mixture of fatty alcohols, waxes and oils with an iodine number of 60 wt. it is not possible to store it for more than 3 months when applied to a wooden case, since after this time excessive drying occurs, which results in an increased core breakage and its crumbling, which reduces the homogeneity and saturation of the trace. Drying is probably due to the content of oil components with a higher iodine number, which are easier to penetrate into the wood packaging.

The above-mentioned disadvantages are overcome by a composition for the manufacture of pencil cores intended for facial cosmetics, in particular eye shadows, lip liners, eyebrows and eyeliner, according to the invention, which contains 15 to 69% by weight. % triglycerides of fatty acids characterized by an iodine number of 0 to 10 wt. % having a carbon number of 16 to 22, 6 to 60 wt. triglycerides of fatty acids characterized by an iodine number of 50 to 100 wt.%, 3 to 10 wt. % white petrolatum and 10 to 50 wt. coloring additives. This mixture may be supplemented with 1 to 10 wt. % stearic or palmitic acid or mixtures thereof, 1 to 20 wt. % beeswax, optionally 1 to 10 wt. monocarboxylic and dicarboxylic acid esters having a carbon number of 6 to 18 and monohydric alcohols having a carbon number of 1 to 18. As emulsifier and physiologically active ingredient, the mixture may contain 0.5 to 10 wt. at least one of a group of substances such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or calcium salts of phosphorylated diglycerides of fatty acids, sodium, potassium, ammonium or calcium salts of phosphorylated alkoxylated alcohols having a total carbon number of 12 to 24, urea or amino acids characterized by isoelectric point range at pH 6.53 to 5.07, preferably alanine, leucine, glycine.

The composition according to the invention is advantageous over known compositions in that it merely satisfies the requirements for the preparation of various consistently different cosmetic products, such as eye shadows, lip liners, eyebrows and eyeliner, while achieving excellent quality parameters such as higher water resistance, excellent layer homogeneity after application, easy application and excellent coating efficiency. During the annual storage, the quality of the pencils prepared from the composition according to the invention did not change. No drying of the cores was observed. A further advantage of the composition for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention is that it does not contain any harmful ingredients.

The basic component is to a high degree saturated natural fat softened with natural oil, possibly supplemented with stearic acid, which prevents the separation of liquid components and positively adjusts the acidity of the mixture so that the protective functions of the skin are maintained. Additives based on synthetic lecithins, such as salts of phosphorylated fatty acid diglycerides, amino acids or mo-JCS 273 824 B1 urea, have an emulsifying effect and favorable physiological effects.

The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

Example 1

The cosmetic composition contains 50 wt. saturated sunflower oil with an iodine number of max 10% by weight, a drop point of 57 ° C and an acid number of 2 mg KOH / G, 16.6% by weight of refined castor oil with an iodine value of 97% by weight, 3% by weight white petrolatum, 30.4 wt. onorganic black pigment based on FuO iron oxide. This composition is particularly suitable for preparing eyeliner and eyebrows. The addition of any natural or synthetic essential oil does not alter the properties of the mixture during processing or application.

Example 2

The cosmetic composition contains 35.8 wt. % of highly hydrogenated natural fat with an iodine number of 5 wt. % of castor oil with an iodine number of 95% by weight, 9.8% by weight; % stearic acid, 8 wt. white petrolatum and 1.8 wt. calcium salt of phosphorylated diglyceride formed by partial hydrolysis of rapeseed oil. After addition of 26.8 wt. The black or brown pigment is a mixture suitable mainly for the preparation of eyebrows. This mixture is also a very good carrier of natural essential oils. The prepared mixture is characterized by a drop point of 58-60 ° C.

Example 3

The cosmetic composition contains 45.5 wt. rapeseed oil with an iodine value of 90% by weight, 15.1% by weight % saturated rapeseed oil with a drop point of 55 ° C and an iodine value of 7% by weight, 3% by weight, white petrolatum, 7.6% by weight of lithium and 1.5% by weight beeswax with a drop point of 65 ° C. After addition of 27.3 wt. blue, green or white pearlescent organic pigment is a blend very beneficial for eye shadow and has beneficial effects on the skin, which it softens and retains elastic.

Example 4

The cosmetic composition contains 6.3 wt. of castor oil, 30.8 wt.%, hydrogenated natural fat, 6.3 wt. % palmitic acid with a drop point of 5.2 ° C, 3.0 wt. refined beeswax and 10 wt.% white petrolatum. After addition of 18.6 wt. % black or brown inorganic pigment or 25.0 wt. blue or green organic pigment is suitable for making eyebrow pencils and eyeliner.

Example 5

The composition for the manufacture of pencil cores for cosmetic preparations contains 63% by weight. hydrogenated shortening with an iodine value of 4% by weight, 5% by weight isobutyl stearate, 4.2 wt.%, dioctyladipate, 1 wt. glycine and 11 wt. % of a mixture of castor oil and coconut oil with an iodine value of 53% by weight, 5% by weight % white petrolatum and various shades of organic red pigments in an amount of 10.8 wt. according to the desired shade of the final preparation, the mixture is particularly suitable for contouring lip pencils.

Example 6

The composition for the manufacture of wooden pencil cores contains 17 wt. castor oil, 52 wt.%, hardened shortening fat with an iodine number of 7 wt.%, 5 wt. white petrolatum, 7 wt. isobutyl stearate and 19 wt.% pigment.

The compositions according to the invention in Examples 1 to 6 were, after homogenization, shaped into cores, which were placed in wooden pencil cases. Finished pencils were glass

CS 273 824 B1 for 12 months at room temperature. During the storage period the drying of the filling, its ability to spread and the surface homogeneity of the layer applied to the skin were monitored. The monitored properties for 12 months did not change and were, according to the evaluation of the Institute of Cosmetics - Prague, comparable with the world leading products.

PREVENTION OF THE INVENTION

Claims (5)

A composition for the manufacture of pencil cores for cosmetic purposes based on triglycerides of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids of hydrocarbons and pigments, characterized in that it consists of 15 to 69% by weight. triglycerides of fatty acids characterized by an iodine number of 0 to 10% by weight, with a carbon number of 16 to 22, 6 to 60% by weight. triglycerides of fatty acids characterized by an iodine number of 50 to 100 wt.%, 10 to 50 wt. % of coloring agents and 3 to 10 wt. white petrolatum. 2. The composition of claim 1, further comprising from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition. stenic acid or palmitic acid or mixtures thereof, 3. A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains from 0.5 to 10% by weight of emulsifier and physiologically active ingredient. at least one of the group; sodium, potassium, ammonium or calcium salts of phosphorylated diglycerides of fatty acids, sodium, potassium; ammonium or calcium salts of phosphorylated alkoxylated alcohols with a total carbon number of 12 to 24, urea or amino acids characterized by an isoelectric point range at pH 6.53 to 5.07 , such as ulunin, louulin, glyol, 4. A poodle mixture as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising 1 to 20 wt. beeswax. 5. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises from 1 to 10 wt. esters of monocarboxylic and dicarboxylic fatty acids having a carbon number of 6 to 18 and monohydric alcohols having a carbon number of 1 to 18.