CN1270506A - Enzymatic foam compositions for dyeing keratinous fibres - Google Patents

Enzymatic foam compositions for dyeing keratinous fibres Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1270506A
CN1270506A CN 98809262 CN98809262A CN1270506A CN 1270506 A CN1270506 A CN 1270506A CN 98809262 CN98809262 CN 98809262 CN 98809262 A CN98809262 A CN 98809262A CN 1270506 A CN1270506 A CN 1270506A
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compositions
hair
strain
oxidase
laccase
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N·H·索兰森
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Novozymes AS
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Novo Nordisk AS
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/32General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using oxidation dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66Enzymes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0004General aspects of dyeing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/14Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/30Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups furs feathers, dead hair, furskins, pelts
    • D06P3/305Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups furs feathers, dead hair, furskins, pelts with oxidation dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/32Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups leather skins
    • D06P3/3253Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups leather skins using oxidation dyes

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to enzymatic foam compositions adapted for dyeing of keratinous fibres, e.g. hair, fur, hide or wool, comprising: 1) at least one oxidation enzyme, typically an oxidoreductase selected from laccases and related enzymes, oxidases and peroxidases; 2) at least one foaming agent, e.g. selected from soaps and anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants; 3) at least one dye precursor, e.g. selected from diamines, aminophenols and phenols; and optionally 4) at least one modifier, e.g. selected from m-aromatic diamines, m-aminophenols and polyphenols. The invention also relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibres using the foam compositions and use of the foam compositions for dyeing keratinous fibres. The foamed compositions of the invention provide an improved uniformity of the dyeing effect.

Description

The enzymatic foam compositions that is used for dyeing keratin fibres
Invention field
The present invention relates to be used for the enzymatic foam compositions of bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres (as hair, fur, rawhide and Pilus Caprae seu Ovis), be used to dye such fiber method and comprise oxidase and the purposes of the compositions of foaming agent aspect colored hair and other keratin fiber.
Background of invention
The Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt hair that people usually have hair dyed and occur with age growth to cover.In addition, in nearest decades, in western countries, the hair dyeing of pure cosmetic purpose has become more and more general, is about to hair and dyes the color different with Natural color to obtain required " appearance ".
Generally speaking, current commercially available composition for hair dying mainly can be divided into three major types :-temporary hair dye ,-semi-permanent hairdye and-permanent oxide hair dye.
Temporary hair dye just plan changes the hair Natural color at short notice, and usually works in hair surface by the deposition dyestuff.Such hair dye is easy to remove with common shampoo.
When utilizing semi-permanent hairdye, the color of being dyed can withstand 5 times or shampoo washing more frequently.Utilization can realize this purpose to the dyestuff that the hair keratin has high-affinity, and this dyestuff can infiltrate through hair shaft inside.
Permanent Hair Dyeing Agent has the resistance of extremely strong antisum, shampoo and other agent for treatment of hair, and only need work as new hair and redyed once in about one month when growing.With regard to these coloring systems, directly inner and hair surface formation of dyestuff at hair.A small amount of fragrant dyestuff former (as p-phenylenediamine (PPD) and o-aminophenol) is penetrated into the hair deep layer, and oxidized dose of oxidation of dyestuff former wherein forms colored macromolecular compound.These colored chemical compounds greater than dyestuff former and can not be in hair flush away.
By in composition for hair dying, comprising the chemical compound that is called modifier (or colour coupler), can obtain many hair colors.Catechol and resorcinol are the examples of such modifier.
Traditionally, H 2O 2(hydrogen peroxide) is used as oxidant (hair dyeing auxiliary agent), but also is used as bleach.Comprise H 2O 2Colouring compositions usually because of H 2O 2Discoloration and be called as " dyestuff of lightening ".
Yet, in dye composite, use H 2O 2Some shortcomings are arranged, as H 2O 2The injury hair.In addition, oxidising dyeing usually requires high pH value (being generally about pH 9-10), and this high pH value also damages and scalp irritation hair.So, do not advocate too continually with comprising H 2O 2Dye composite hair dyeing.
Use H in order to overcome 2O 2Shortcoming, the suggestion utilize oxidase to substitute H 2O 2
United States Patent (USP) 3,251,742 (Revlon) have been described by the dyestuff original position and have been formed method to people's hair-dyeing.Under neutral pH value (pH 7-8.5) basically, utilize oxidase to carry out color and form reaction.Propose with laccase, tryrosinase, polyphenol enzyme and catecholase (catacolases) as suitable oxidase in the literary composition.
EP patent 0504005 (Perma S.A.) has not related to need exist H 2O 2, the compositions that is used to have hair dyed.Said composition comprise can be in buffer the enzyme that forms of catalytic polymerization dyestuff and dyestuff former (as color-fixing agent and colour coupler), wherein the pH value of compositions is 6.5-8, this enzyme has optimum activity in this pH value scope.Rhizoctonia praticola laccase and Rhusvernicifera laccase have the optimal pH of 6.5-8, and can be used for forming polymeric dye according to this patent.
Yet when utilizing such oxidase dyeing keratin fibres (as Crinis Carbonisatus), problem occurs thereupon, and promptly wherein oxygen becomes the restriction factor of enzymatic reaction, because reaction is carried out comparatively fast, especially for laccase.This situation especially appears in the compositions with higher tack, as hair jelly and mousse.Consequently, be reflected on the hair portion that is positioned at hair/air interface and carry out widely, because the laccase on the interface has obtained enough oxygen supplies in air.On the contrary, the major part of the hair of (being between air and the scalp) is not carried out the required enough oxygen of enzymatic oxidation after obtaining and exhausting the oxygen that is present in the reaction medium under this interface, therefore reaction carry out comparatively slowly (perhaps finally stopping fully), and than surperficial hair fiber, this part hair-dyeing gets less relatively.
Therefore, when utilizing the oxidase of hair dyeing, need all obtain than the more all even Color more fast of existing composition for hair dying (containing oxidase) on the hair.
Summary of the invention
The enzyme based composition and use thereof in packaging that the purpose of this invention is to provide the improvement of bleaching or colored hair and other keratin fiber, especially provide and to obtain the compositions of advantage (, and producing the uniformity hair dyeing effect that improves simultaneously) by utilizing oxidase as the hair injury that reduces.
Now made us finding questioningly: comprise the uniformity Color that the composition for hair dying of oxidase and foaming agent produce to improve, the Color away from the hair portion of air interface is improved.This foam compositions of the present invention be used for to otherwise will be very soon suffer the hair portion of the not enough circumstances of oxygen supply to provide the enzymatic oxidation process required oxygen, thereby guarantee that oxidation can all carry out on the hairs equably.Consequently, obtain more uniform hair dyeing effect, promptly reduced the variation of the hair color intensity of different hair zones.
Therefore, first aspect the present invention relates to be suitable for the enzymatic foam compositions to dyeing keratinous fibres, and said composition comprises 1) at least a oxidase, 2) at least a foaming agent, 3) at least a dyestuff former and selectively 4) at least a modifier.
A second aspect of the present invention relates to the method to dyeing keratinous fibres, and this method is included in and is enough to make dyestuff former to be oxidized under the condition of colored compound to make fiber contact a period of time with enzymatic foam compositions.
Another aspect of the present invention relates to the purposes of enzymatic foam compositions aspect the oxidising dyeing of keratin fiber (especially hair, fur, rawhide or Pilus Caprae seu Ovis).
Brief description of the drawings
When Fig. 1 shows with foam formulation of the present invention dyeing at the effect aspect the color homogeneity (referring to embodiment 1).First and second posts show the coefficient of deviation (CV) (determining with Δ L* and Δ E*) of the colouring compositions that comprises foam SDS-betanin-pPD-laccase; Third and fourth post shows the CV of the colouring compositions that comprises foam SDS-pPDP-laccase; The the 5th and the 6th post (reference) shows the CV of the colouring compositions that comprises pPD-laccase-water.
Fig. 2 shows the effect (referring to embodiment 1) aspect color homogeneity when utilizing foam formulation of the present invention to dye.First post shows the coefficient of deviation (CV) (determining with Δ L* and Δ E*) of the colouring compositions that comprises foam SDS-betanin-oAP-laccase; Second post shows the CV of the colouring compositions that comprises foam SDS-OAP-laccase; The 3rd post (reference) shows the CV of the colouring compositions that comprises oAP-laccase-water.
Fig. 3 demonstration utilizes tryrosinase as oxidasic hair dyeing effect.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
Comprise 1) at least a oxidizing ferment and 2) present composition of at least a foaming agent is outstanding It is the composition that is suitable for dyeing keratin fibres (such as hair, fur, rawhide or wool). Right In dyeing keratinous fibres, the present composition also comprises 3) at least a dyestuff former and optional Select ground 4) at least a modifier. The preferable use of composition is permanent the dying as people's hair dyeing Material.
Oxidizing ferment is oxidoreducing enzyme, namely according to international bio chemistry and molecular biology association The enzyme classification of recommendation (IUBMB) (1992) classification number be E.C.1 (oxidoreducing enzyme), The enzyme of catalytic oxidation-reduction reaction.
In the oxidoreducing enzyme group, by acting on the oxygen (O as acceptor2) and/or peroxide It is preferred coming the enzyme of the oxidation reaction of catalytic substrate (electronics or hydrogen donor). Such enzyme comprises Comprise oxidasic enzyme not in the classification enzyme comprise E.C.1.1.3, E.C.1.2. 3, E.C.1.3.3, E.C.1.4.3, E.C.1.5.3, E.C.1.7. 3, E.C.1.8.3 and E.C.1.9.3, classification number are E.C.1.10.3's Laccase and relevant enzyme, and classification number is the peroxidase of E.C.1.11.
According to the present invention, three class oxidoreducing enzyme especially are worthy of consideration:
A) laccase or relevant enzyme, it acts on molecular oxygen and produces water (H2O) need not peroxide (such as H2O 2);
B) oxidase, it acts on molecular oxygen (O 2) and produce peroxide (H 2O 2); With
C) peroxidase, it acts on peroxide (as H 2O 2) and produce water (H 2O).
In addition, also consider to comprise single group of the deriving from of more than one or on the same group the enzyme system of combination of enzyme (belonging to three fermentoids) not.In this manual, though usually mention single enzyme for the sake of simplicity, should be appreciated that description generally is applicable to the combination like this of plurality of enzymes.In addition, though generally describe the present invention, should be appreciated that description generally is applicable to the foam compositions of the present invention of other type keratin fiber that can be used for dyeing according to the preferred aspect relevant with hair dyeing.
Especially preferred enzyme is laccase and relevant enzyme, term " laccase and relevant enzyme " comprises the catechol-oxydase that enzyme and E.C.1.10.3.1 comprised that enzyme classification E.C.1.10.3.2 (laccase) is comprised, monohydric phenol one oxygenase that Bilirubin oxidase that enzyme classification E.C.1.3.3.5 is comprised and enzyme classification E.C.1.14.99.1 are comprised.Laccase is the enzyme that contains many copper of catalysis of phenol and aromatic amine oxidation.The oxidation of laccase mediation produces the aryloxy group midbody product in suitable phenol substrate; So the final coupling of the intermediate that produces provides the combination of dimerization, oligomerization and polymeric reaction product.Some product can be used for forming the dyestuff that is suitable for having hair dyed.
Laccase can derive from microorganism (as fungus or antibacterial) or plant.Preferably, the laccase that is utilized derives from fungus.More preferably, it derives from the bacterial strain (especially bacterial strain sieve aperture polypor or variable color polypor) of Polyporus strain, the bacterial strain of myceliophthora strain (as thermophilic ruin the silk mould), the bacterial strain of Rhizoctonia strain (especially bacterial strain Rh.praticola or Rhizoctonia solani Kuhn), the bacterial strain (as S.thermophilium) of bacterial strain of Pyricularia strain (especially P.oryrae) or Scytalidium.Laccase also can derive from plant, as Rhus seeds (as Rhus vernicifera).
In specific embodiments of the present invention, oxidoreductase is a laccase, as Polyporus strain laccase, especially the sieve aperture polypor laccase of in WO 96/00290, describing (being also referred to as fine hair bolt bacterium laccase) (deriving from Novo Nordisk biotech company), or myceliophthora strain laccase, the especially thermophilic rMtL of in WO 95/33836, describing (deriving from NovoNordisk biotech company).
In addition, laccase can be the laccase of Scytalidium sp., laccase as the S.thermophilium of description in WO 95/33837 and WO 97/19998 (deriving from Novo Nordisk biotech company) (its content and this paper is reference in the lump), or the laccase of Pyricularia sp. (as can be) with the laccase of trade name SIGMA No.L5510 available from the Pyriculariaoryzae of SIGMA, or the laccase of Coprinus strain is (as the laccase of Coprinus cinereus, especially the laccase of Coprinus cinereus IFO 30116), or the laccase of Rhizoctonia strain, as the laccase of Rhizoctonia solani Kuhn, especially in WO 95/07988, describe, best pH scope is the laccase (deriving from Novo Nordisk A/S) of the neutral Rhizoctonia solani Kuhn of 6.0-8.5.
Laccase also can derive from fungus, and as the money Pseudomonas, shelf fungus belongs to, and Herba Glossogynes tenuifoliae belongs to, pleurotus, aspergillus, Chytridium, handle spore shell belongs to, and penetrates arteries and veins Pseudomonas (as penetrating arteries and veins bacterium (WO 92/01046)), Coriolus Qu61 strain (as hairy fungus (JP 2-238885)) or Botrytis.
Bilirubin oxidase can preferably derive from Myrothecium strain bacterial strain, as myrothecium verrucaria.
Produce peroxide (H 2O 2) oxidase typically be used in combination with peroxidase, to remove or to reduce the peroxide produced at least.
Suitable oxidase comprises glucoseoxidase (E.C.1.1.3.4), hexoxidase (E.C.1.1.3.5), L-amino acid oxidase (E.C.1.4.3.2), xylitol oxidase, beta-Galactose oxidase (E.C.1.1.3.9), pyranose oxidase (E.C.1.1.3.10) and alcohol oxidase (E.C.1.1.3.13).
If utilize the L-amino acid oxidase, it can derive from the trichoderma strain so, as Trichoderma harzianum, and as the L-amino acid oxidase of in WO 94/25574, describing (deriving from Novo Nordisk A/S), or Trichoderma viride.
Suitable glucoseoxidase can derive from aspergillus bacterium, as the bacterial strain of aspergillus niger, or derives from bacterial strain, especially the Cladosporium oxysporum of Cladosporium strain.
Derive from red seaweed chondrus ocellatus Holmes (being commonly referred to as Ai Lantai) (Sullivan and Ikawa, (1973), biochemistry and biophysics's journal, 309, p.11-22; Ikawa, (1982), the Enzymology method opinion, 89, carbohydrate metabolism D part, hexoxidase oxidation wide spectrum carbohydrate 145-149) is as D-glucose, D-galactose, maltose, cellobiose, lactose, D-glucose 6 phosphate esters, D-mannose, 2-deoxy-D-glucose, 2-deoxidation-D-galactase, D-fructose, D-glucuronic acid and D-xylose.
Foaming agent can with the single agents form two or the bonded form of plurality of reagents exist.Foaming agent typically is selected from soap class and anion, cation, nonionic, facultative, sugar surfactant and/or amphoteric surfactant and composition thereof.Foaming agent can be preferably 0.2-13% to account for the 0.1%-15% of final composition weight, and 0.25-10% more preferably exists as the amount of 0.5-8%.The examples of anionic surfactants that is suitable for use as to foaming agent is the soap class, as alkali or ethanolamine, isopropyl alcohol 2-methyl-2-amino-1, the soap class of ammediol soap (as laruate, myristate, palmitate, stearate, isostearate, behenic acid salt, oleate, linoleate etc.) form; Fatty alcohol ether sulphate is as sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate; Aliphatic alcohol sulfate is as sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS and SDS); Sulfosuccinate is as sulfo-succinic acid dioctyl sodium; The alpha-alefinically sulphonic acid ester; The alkylamide ether sulfate; Fatty acid condensation product: alkyl ether phosphate and monoglyceride sulfate.Be suitable for use as the nonionic fatty acid and the fatty amine that especially usually are used as foam stabiliser, thickening agent and kicker for the example of the non-ionic surface active agent of foaming agent, as Marlamid and two alkanolamides and Marlamid polyglycol ether and fatty amine oxide.The example that is suitable for being used in combination with anion surfactant as the amphoterics of foaming agent is alkyl betaine, alkyl imidazoline betanin, alkyl sulfobetaines, amidoalkyl betanin, N-alkyl-Beta-alanine ester etc.
The example of the foaming agent of sugar surfactant form comprises (a) alkyl and/or alkenyl oligosaccharide glycosides and/or (b) fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxy alkylamide.
Alkyl-and/or alkenyl oligosaccharide glycosides (a) can have general formula (I):
R 1-O-[G] p(I) R wherein 1=C 4-22Alkyl and/or alkenyl, G=have the saccharide residue of 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p=1-10.
Fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxy alkylamide (b) can have general formula:
R 2CO-N (R 3)-[Z] (II) R wherein 2CO=C 6-22The aliphatic acyl radical residue, R 3=H, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl and [Z]=the have straight or branched polyhydroxyalkyl residue of 3-12 carbon atom and 3-10 OH base with 1-4 carbon atom.
It comprises that also a) general formula is R 1-O-[G] pAlkyl and alkenyl oligosaccharide glycosides, and b) C 12-22The 22, the alkali of 3-alkyl sulfate and/or alkali salt, wherein R 1=C 4-22Alkyl and/or alkenyl; G=has the saccharide residue of 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p=1-10.(I): weight ratio (II) is preferably 1: 99-99: 1.
Also comprise fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxy alkylamide; Sugar surfactant with sucrose ester, sorbitan ester and/or polysorbate.
The general formula that sugar surfactant also can comprise 10-40% (weight) is R 1-O-[G] pAlkyl and/or alkenyl oligosaccharide glycosides, the general formula of 10-40% (weight) is R 2-O-(G) pAlkyl and/or alkenyl oligosaccharide glycosides, and the general formula of 80-20% (weight) is R 3-(OCH 2CH 2) nO-SO 3The alkyl ether sulfate of M, wherein R 1=C 8-11Alkyl or alkenyl; (G)=glucosyl group; P=1-10 is preferably 1-3; R 2=C 12-22Alkyl or alkenyl; R 3=C 6-22Alkyl or alkenyl; M=alkali or alkaline-earth metal, or ammonium or alkanol ammonium ion are preferably Na or Mg; And n=1-20, be preferably 2-7.Preferably, R 2And R 3Be C independently 12-14Alkyl.
Another example of sugar surfactant is polyglycerol fatty acid ester polyoxy alkylidene ether R R 1R 2R 3N+-CH (Y)-CH 2-O-CH 2-C (CH 3) 2-C (OH) (H)-C (=O)-NH-CH 2-CH 2-OHX-(I), wherein R, R 1, R 2=C 1-24Alkyl or C 8-24Alkenyl: R 3=C 1-18Alkylidene: X=unit price organic or inorganic anion; With Y=OH or H.
Sugar surfactant also can comprise the fatty alcohol polyglycol ether of (A) 1-5% (weight), the polyol partial esters of the pure and mild 1-5% of Guerbet of 1-5%, (B) anionic polymer of 1-5%, (C) the fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfuric ester of 15-30%, (D) the alkyl oligosaccharide glycosides of 15-30%: and general formula is R 1CO-N (R 2The sulfating product of the fatty acid of)-Z-N-alkyl polyhydroxy alkylamide, wherein R 1CO=C 6-22Aliphatic acyl radical; R 2=H, C 1-4Alkyl or C 1-4Hydroxyalkyl; Z=comprises the C of 3-10 hydroxyl 3-12Polyhydroxy alkyl.
Sugar surfactant also can be selected from the alkyl oligosaccharide glycosides of general formula (I) and the carboxylic acid N-polyhydroxy alkyl amide of general formula (II):
R 1-O(G) (I)
R 2CO-NR 3-Z (II) is R wherein 1=selectively hydroxylated C 1-8Alkyl; G=has the saccharide residue of 5 or 6 carbon atoms; P=1-10; R 2CO=C 1-8Aliphatic acyl radical: R 3=H, C 1-8Alkyl or C 1-8Hydroxyalkyl; Z=comprises the C of 3-10 OH group 3-12Polyhydroxy alkyl.
The example of preferred foaming agent is SDS (sodium lauryl sulphate), sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate and soap class.
Also need to have added other additive of stabilizing agent, kicker and thickening agent effect, for example one or more is selected from the chemical compound of following material: Marlamid, two alkanolamides or fat alkane alcohol amide, polyglycol ether (as ethoxylation lauric acid one glycollic amide) or fatty amine oxide (as the alkyl dimethyl amino-oxide).
Compositions of the present invention can also comprise that the water-soluble polymer that can make foam stabilization is as stabilizing agent, the for example cellulose of one or more cellulose derivative such as cationization, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hydroxy methocel, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose, facultative resin, vinyl ethyl ether maleic acid ester polymer, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and acrylic resin alkanolamine.
In order to give keratin fiber (as hair) dyeing, colouring compositions of the present invention also comprises at least a dyestuff former, and this precursor changes colored compound (being dyestuff) into by oxidase.If do not limited, dyestuff former can be the aromatic that belongs to three main chemical families: aromatic diamines, amino-phenol (or aminonaphthol) and phenol.The example of Isatine derivatives dyestuff former can find among the 317-A1 at DE 4,314.In addition, many indole or indolin derivatives dyestuff former are disclosed among the WO 94/00100.The dyestuff former of being mentioned in these files and this paper reference in the lump.
The example of suitable dyestuff former comprises the chemical compound that derives from the group that comprises following material: p-phenylenediamine (PPD) (pPD), and to toluylene diamine, the chloro p-phenylenediamine (PPD), para-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 3, the 4-diaminotoluene, 2, the 5-diaminotoluene, the 2-methyl isophthalic acid, the 4-diaminobenzene, 4-methyl-o-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxyl group-p-phenylenediamine (PPD), 2-chloro-1, the 4-diaminobenzene, 4-aminodiphenylamine, 1-amino-4-'beta '-methoxy ethylamino benzene, 1-amino-4-pair-(beta-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 2-methyl isophthalic acid, the 3-diaminobenzene, 2,4 di amino toluene, 2, the 6-diamino-pyridine, 1-hydroxyl-2-aminobenzene, 1-hydroxyl-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxyl-4-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxyl-4-beta-hydroxyethyl aminobenzene, 1-hydroxyl-4-aminobenzene, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl aminobenzene, 1-methoxyl group-2, the 4-diaminobenzene, 1-ethyoxyl-2,3-diaminobenzene, 1-beta-hydroxy ethyoxyl-2, the 4-diaminobenzene, 3,4-diaminourea-phenylhydrazide, 3,5-diaminourea-phenylhydrazide, hydroxytyramine hydrobromide and catechin; Azophenlyene, as 4,7-azophenlyene dicarboxylic acids, 2,7-azophenlyene dicarboxylic acids, 2-azophenlyene carboxylic acid, 2, the 7-diaminophenazine, 2, the 8-diaminophenazine, 2,7-diaminourea-3,8-dimethoxy azophenlyene, 2,7-diaminourea-3-methoxyl group azophenlyene, 2,7-diaminourea-3-methoxyl group azophenlyene, 3-dimethyl-2,8-azophenlyene diamidogen, 2,2 '-[(8-amino-7-methyl-2-phenazinyl) amino]-ethanol, 2,2 '-[(8-amino-7-methoxyl group-2-phenazinyl) amino]-ethanol, 2,2,-[(8-amino-7-chloro-2-phenazinyl) imino group] two-ethanol, 2-[(8-amino-7-methyl-2-phenazinyl) amino]-ethanol, 2,2 ,-[(8-amino-2-phenazinyl) imino group] two-ethanol, 3-amino-7-(dimethylamino)-2,8-dimethyl-5-phenyl-chloride, 9-(lignocaine)-benzo [a] azophenlyene-1,5-glycol, N-[8-(lignocaine)-2-phenazinyl]-Methanesulfomide, N-(8-methoxyl group-2-phenazinyl)-Methanesulfomide, N, N, N ', N '-tetramethyl-2,7-azophenlyene diamidogen, 3,7-dimethyl-2-azophenlyene amine; Para-amino benzoic acid, as ethylaminobenzoate, para-amino benzoic acid glyceride, the para-amino benzoic acid isobutyl, ESCAROL 507 amino ester, ESCAROL 507 monooctyl ester, to diethoxy amino benzoic Acid amino ester, to the dipropoxy benzocaine; Aspirin, and Isatine derivatives, as 2, the 3-diaminobenzoic acid.
The example of other dyestuff former comprises the aminobenzoic acid compound of general formula 1
Figure A9880926200131
Wherein R is amino, single or dibasic amino or OR ', wherein R ' is the phenyl of H, alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, alkylhalide group, nitro, benzyl, phenyl or replacement, each of X, Y and Z can be phenyl, amino, hydroxyl or the sulfydryl of hydrogen, alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, alkylhalide group, nitro, benzyl, phenyl, replacement independently, condition is X, and at least one is amino or its salt in Y and the Z group.Wherein R ' is that the chemical compound of methyl, ethyl or isopropyl esters is preferred.
In one embodiment, oxidoreductase is a colored compound with the dyestuff former direct oxidation.Dyestuff former can be used in combination individually or with other dyestuff former.
Yet it is generally acknowledged: when utilizing diamidogen or amino-phenol as dyestuff former, at least a intermediate in copolyreaction must be adjacent or to diamidogen or amino-phenol.Such example is described in United States Patent (USP) 3,251, among 742 (Revlon), and its content and this paper reference in the lump.
Selectively, colouring compositions of the present invention (especially composition for hair dying) also comprises the modifier (colour coupler) that can obtain many colors thus.Modifier is generally used in the composition for hair dying, and is because for most of people, normally unacceptable in the color that does not have to be produced by composition for hair dying under the situation of modifier.
Modifier typically between aromatic diamines, m-aminophenol, polyphenol, amino naphthalenes or naphthols.Modifier (colour coupler) exists under the oxidasic situation and the dyestuff former reaction, and is translated into colored compound.The example of modifier (colour coupler) comprises m-diaminobenzene., 2,4-diamino anethole, 1-hydroxyl naphthalene (alpha-Naphthol), 1,4-dihydroxy benzenes (hydroquinone), 1,5-dihydroxy naphthlene, 1,2-dihydroxy benzenes (pyrocatechol), 1,3-dihydroxy benzenes (resorcinol), 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-4-chlorobenzene (4-chloro resorcinol), 1,2,3-trihydroxy benzene, 1,2,4-trihydroxy benzene, 1,2,4-trihydroxy-5-methylbenzene and 1,2, the 4-trihydroxytoluene.
Can also comprise additive and the excipient that is generally used in composition for hair dying and other cosmetic product according to compositions of the present invention, as wetting agent, oils, thickening agent, antioxidant, buffer agent, antiseptic, spice, coloring agent etc.
Second aspect the present invention relates to utilize above-mentioned composition to give keratin fiber (especially hair, fur, rawhide and Pilus Caprae seu Ovis) painted method.Can utilize one or more dyestuff former and selectively combine and implement this colouring method with one or more modifier.The amount that is used for the dyestuff former of the present composition and other composition for this purpose is consistent with common commercialization amount.Typically or have hair dyed near room temperature (preferably about the optimum temperature of use enzyme) with in 3.0-9.0 (being preferably 4.0-8.5, especially 6.0-8.0) pH scope.Suitable dyestuff former and selectable modifier are as mentioned above.
Though expection the inventive method typically will utilize the single premixed compositions that is applied on hair or other fiber as foam (comprising oxidase, foaming agent, dyestuff former and selectable modifier) to carry out, so that obtain effect of uniform, but also expect this method can be in addition by mix two or multiple independent compositions and/or one-tenth assign to carry out so that produce the required foam compositions that comprises all neccessary compositions.
The present invention further specifies with following indefiniteness embodiment.Material and method
Except that specifying, material therefor and method are as follows.
Material
Hair:
6 " De Meo pure natural poliosis (De Meo Brothers Inc., USA)
Enzyme:
Derive from the thermophilic mould laccase (from NovoNordisk biotech company) of silk of ruining that is described among the WO 95/33837, dosage is every ml reactant liquor 0.1mg enzyme.
Dyestuff former:
Used dyestuff former is selected from following material:
P-phenylenediamine (PPD) (pPD)
O-aminophenol (oAP)
Buffer:
0.1M borate buffer solution, pH7.0 has 60ppm Ca ++
Analytical tool:
Minolta CR200 colorimeter
Fluorescent tube: 1000 LUX (D65)
Method
The preparation foam compositions
Utilize foam dispenser or blender to prepare foam, come mix-froth compositions gently by stirring, to avoid forming foam in this stage at production period.Utilize following prescription: " minimum type " SDS 0.4% dyestuff former 0.5% buffer is up to 100%
Amount with every ml dye solution 0.1mg pheron adds enzyme in prescription." the single type A of tube " SDS 2.0% phosphoric acid betaine 2.0% dyestuff former 0.5% buffer is up to 100%
Amount with every ml dye solution 0.1mg pheron adds enzyme in prescription.Contrast: " distilled water "
Because foam can only use with the maximum of the about 2.5g of every g hair, so the precursor concentration in the contrast reduces 50%: dyestuff former 0.25% buffer is up to 100%
Amount with every ml dye solution 0.1mg pheron adds enzyme in prescription.
With total amount is that the contrast dye solution of 5ml joins (distilled water) in the hair.
Hair color is estimated
Utilize parameter L *(" 0 "=black, " 100 "=white), a *("-"=green, "+"=redness) and b *("-"=blueness, "+"=yellow) measures the quantitative color of bundle of hair on Minolta CR200 colorimeter.
Δ L *, Δ a *With Δ b *Be L *, a *And b *Respectively with the L of untreated hair *, a *And b *(the Δ L for example of Δ value relatively *=L * Sample-L * Untreated hair).
Δ E *By formula Δ E *=square root (Δ L * 2+ Δ a * 2+ Δ b * 2) calculate, and represent that total quantitative color changes.
EXAMPLE Example 1 is mixed with the foamy composition for hair dying that comprises laccase
The 1g bundle of hair is hung on the metallic plate of inclination, dye with foam formulation (preparation as stated above).Foamed dye solution is rubbed in the bundle of hair, and contrast solution is poured on the bundle of hair in the 150ml glass beaker.On each bundle of hair, use the 1-2g dye formulation.Dyeed 30 minutes down at 30 ℃, every kind of prescription uses two bundle hairs.After the application of dye prescription, bundle of hair is suspended on the specimen holder, and during dyeing, places it in the heating cupboard.It is motionless to stay contrast.After dyeing, rinsing and washing head topknot once, drying then.
Utilize above-mentioned two kinds of foam formulations to be presented among Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 with two kinds of painted results of different dyestuff formers.
Fig. 1 shows with the foam formulation that comprises precursor pPD and dyes to the effect of color homogeneity.Respectively two the bundle hairs on the test above-mentioned two kinds of foam formulations, from the hair tip after the every bundle hair of measuring everywhere of hair root 12 times, represent dyeing uniformity with " CV " (coefficient of deviation) of Δ E* and Δ L*.
Fig. 1 clearly illustrates: the color homogeneity with the painted bundle of hair of foam formulation is better.Their CV is significantly less than the painted bundle of hair of usefulness " distilled water " contrast solution.
Can see same effect in Fig. 2, wherein dyestuff former is oAP.In this test, every kind of prescription has only a branch of hair, and foam has also improved color homogeneity.Embodiment 2 is mixed with the foamy composition for hair dying material hair that comprises tryrosinase: De Meo pure natural poliosis, 1g bundle of hair.Enzyme: the tryrosinase that derives from Sigma.
Concentration: 0.9mg e.p/ml (the e.p=organized enzyme albumen) dyestuff former of filling a prescription: p-phenylenediamine (PPD) (PPD) or to toluene-diamidogen (PTD)
Concentration: 0.1% prescription buffer: the 0.1M borate buffer solution, pH7.0 has 60ppm Ca ++Foam formulation: every ml prescription 0.02g MiniRisk TMShampoo
MiniRisk TMComprise 15% SDS method 1) under agitation precursor is dissolved in the 0.1M borate buffer solution with 15 minutes.2) mix MiniRisk gently TM, 0.1M borate buffer solution and enzyme.3) in prescription, add precursor and mixing gently then.4) utilize foam dispenser preparation prescription foam.5) by foam being rubbed in the hair, use foam with the maximum of the about 2.5g of every g hair.6) under 30 ℃, bundle of hair was hung on metallic plate 30 minutes, so that dyeing.7) after 30 minutes, rinsing hair 3 minutes is used MiniRisk TMShampoo washing 15 seconds, and then a rinsing and an air-dry night.8) after the hair drying, utilize the Minolta colorimeter to measure hair color, untreated bundle of hair is used as contrast.
The result is presented among Fig. 3, wherein can see: when when combining as the PPD of dyestuff former or PTD, can obtain hair-dyeing with tryrosinase.Though the Δ E value of PPD is higher than the Δ E value of PTD a little, it still belongs to acceptable level, especially according to this true consideration of enzyme that generally tryrosinase is not considered as being suitable for the hair coloring purpose.Therefore this example shows: when using according to the present invention, can obtain acceptable hair dyeing effect with tryrosinase.

Claims (14)

1. compositions that is suitable for to dyeing keratinous fibres, said composition comprises 1) at least a oxidase, 2) at least a foaming agent, 3) at least a dyestuff former and selectively 4) at least a modifier.
2. the compositions of claim 1, oxidase wherein is the oxidoreductase that is selected from laccase and relevant enzyme, oxidase and peroxidase.
3. the compositions of claim 2, oxidase wherein is a laccase.
4. the compositions of claim 3, laccase wherein derives from fungus.
5. the compositions of claim 4, laccase wherein derives from the bacterial strain of Polyporus strain, especially bacterial strain sieve aperture polypor or variable color polypor, the bacterial strain of myceliophthora strain, especially thermophilic ruin the silk mould, the bacterial strain of Rhizoctonia strain, especially Rh.praticola or Rhizoctonia solani Kuhn, or the bacterial strain of Scytalidium, especially S.thermophilium, the bacterial strain of Pyricularia strain, especially P.oryzae, or derive from Collybia, shelf fungus belongs to, Lentinus, pleurotus, aspergillus, neurospora, handle spore shell belongs to, and penetrates the arteries and veins Pseudomonas, as penetrates the arteries and veins bacterium, the Coriolus Qu61 strain, as hairy fungus, Botrytis, or the bacterial strain of Coprinus strain.
6. arbitrary compositions of claim 1-5, foaming agent wherein are selected from soap class and anion, nonionic, facultative and amphoteric surfactant.
7. the compositions of claim 6, said composition comprises at least a foaming agent that is selected from sodium lauryl sulphate and sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate.
8. arbitrary compositions of aforesaid right requirement, said composition comprises at least a dyestuff former that is selected from aromatic diamines, amino-phenol, phenol, amino naphthalenes and naphthols.
9. arbitrary compositions of aforesaid right requirement, said composition comprises at least a modifier that is selected from a diamidogen, m-aminophenol and polyphenol.
10. method of giving dyeing keratinous fibres, this method is included in and is enough to make dyestuff former to be oxidized under the condition of colored compound to make fiber contact the regular hour with the foam compositions that comprises following material: 1) at least a oxidase, 2) at least a modifier at least a foaming agent, 3) at least a dyestuff former and selectively 4).
11. the method for claim 10 wherein dyes at 3.0-9.0, is preferably in the pH scope of 4.0-8.5, especially 6.0-8.0 and carries out.
12. the method for claim 10 or 11, foam compositions wherein is as arbitrary qualification of claim 2-9.
13. foam compositions is at keratin fiber, especially the purposes of hair, fur, rawhide or woolen oxidising dyeing aspect, wherein said compositions comprises 1) at least a oxidase, 2) at least a foaming agent, 3) at least a dyestuff former and selectively 4) at least a modifier.
14. according to the purposes of claim 13, foam compositions wherein is as arbitrary qualification of claim 2-9.
CN 98809262 1997-09-19 1998-09-18 Enzymatic foam compositions for dyeing keratinous fibres Pending CN1270506A (en)

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