CN116919853A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116919853A CN116919853A CN202210336452.1A CN202210336452A CN116919853A CN 116919853 A CN116919853 A CN 116919853A CN 202210336452 A CN202210336452 A CN 202210336452A CN 116919853 A CN116919853 A CN 116919853A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic composition
- wax
- melting point
- aqueous polyurethane
- weight
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 98
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 89
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- 229920003009 polyurethane dispersion Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 25
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 21
- 229920001730 Moisture cure polyurethane Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims description 6
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004519 grease Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000001273 sulfonato group Chemical group [O-]S(*)(=O)=O 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000000542 sulfonic acid group Chemical group 0.000 claims 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 abstract description 34
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 abstract description 9
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 210000000720 eyelash Anatomy 0.000 description 46
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 34
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 17
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
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- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron oxide Chemical compound [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 4
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- IQPQWNKOIGAROB-UHFFFAOYSA-N isocyanate group Chemical group [N-]=C=O IQPQWNKOIGAROB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 4
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 4
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- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 4
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 4
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- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Formaldehyde Chemical compound O=C WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 239000004204 candelilla wax Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000013868 candelilla wax Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 229940073532 candelilla wax Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 239000004203 carnauba wax Substances 0.000 description 3
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- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 3
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- 239000002552 dosage form Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N ferrosoferric oxide Chemical compound O=[Fe]O[Fe]O[Fe]=O SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 3
- IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N hentriacontane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000012948 isocyanate Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000002513 isocyanates Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000004006 olive oil Chemical class 0.000 description 3
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- WGYKZJWCGVVSQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylamine Chemical compound CCCN WGYKZJWCGVVSQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 229940015975 1,2-hexanediol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229940035437 1,3-propanediol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical compound NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RNLHGQLZWXBQNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(aminomethyl)-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexan-1-amine Chemical compound CC1(C)CC(N)CC(C)(CN)C1 RNLHGQLZWXBQNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000019489 Almond oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 241001070941 Castanea Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000014036 Castanea Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 description 2
- ROSDSFDQCJNGOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethylamine Chemical compound CNC ROSDSFDQCJNGOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QUSNBJAOOMFDIB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylamine Chemical compound CCN QUSNBJAOOMFDIB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 240000000950 Hippophae rhamnoides Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000003145 Hippophae rhamnoides Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000005909 Kieselgur Substances 0.000 description 2
- BAVYZALUXZFZLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methylamine Chemical compound NC BAVYZALUXZFZLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- YNAVUWVOSKDBBP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Morpholine Chemical compound C1COCCN1 YNAVUWVOSKDBBP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 240000007817 Olea europaea Species 0.000 description 2
- BPQQTUXANYXVAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Orthosilicate Chemical compound [O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] BPQQTUXANYXVAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000019483 Peanut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- NQRYJNQNLNOLGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Piperidine Chemical compound C1CCNCC1 NQRYJNQNLNOLGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000019774 Rice Bran oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- WYURNTSHIVDZCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tetrahydrofuran Chemical compound C1CCOC1 WYURNTSHIVDZCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000019498 Walnut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000002390 adhesive tape Substances 0.000 description 2
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000008168 almond oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000008163 avocado oil Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 235000012216 bentonite Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- SVPXDRXYRYOSEX-UHFFFAOYSA-N bentoquatam Chemical compound O.O=[Si]=O.O=[Al]O[Al]=O SVPXDRXYRYOSEX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 210000005252 bulbus oculi Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- HQABUPZFAYXKJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N butan-1-amine Chemical compound CCCCN HQABUPZFAYXKJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,4-diol Chemical compound OCCCCO WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 2
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- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 2
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- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 238000002425 crystallisation Methods 0.000 description 2
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- GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N decanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JQVDAXLFBXTEQA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dibutylamine Chemical compound CCCCNCCCC JQVDAXLFBXTEQA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
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- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(O)CO FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 2
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 2
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- HQKMJHAJHXVSDF-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium stearate Chemical compound [Mg+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O HQKMJHAJHXVSDF-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
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- 235000010417 guar gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960002154 guar gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L hectorite Chemical compound [Li+].[OH-].[OH-].[Na+].[Mg+2].O1[Si]2([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]([O-])(O1)O[Si]1([O-])O2 KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910000271 hectorite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- UBHWBODXJBSFLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol;octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO UBHWBODXJBSFLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NAQMVNRVTILPCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,6-diamine Chemical compound NCCCCCCN NAQMVNRVTILPCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IKDUDTNKRLTJSI-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydrazine monohydrate Substances O.NN IKDUDTNKRLTJSI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920006007 hydrogenated polyisobutylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003949 imides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000007794 irritation Effects 0.000 description 1
- NIMLQBUJDJZYEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophorone diisocyanate Chemical compound CC1(C)CC(N=C=O)CC(C)(CN=C=O)C1 NIMLQBUJDJZYEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004922 lacquer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004310 lactic acid Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000014655 lactic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960000448 lactic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004816 latex Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000126 latex Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000005923 long-lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000019359 magnesium stearate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 108700019599 monomethylolglycine Proteins 0.000 description 1
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- ITZPOSYADVYECJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N n'-cyclohexylpropane-1,3-diamine Chemical compound NCCCNC1CCCCC1 ITZPOSYADVYECJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ODGYWRBCQWKSSH-UHFFFAOYSA-N n'-ethylpropane-1,3-diamine Chemical compound CCNCCCN ODGYWRBCQWKSSH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QHJABUZHRJTCAR-UHFFFAOYSA-N n'-methylpropane-1,3-diamine Chemical compound CNCCCN QHJABUZHRJTCAR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KVKFRMCSXWQSNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N n,n'-dimethylethane-1,2-diamine Chemical compound CNCCNC KVKFRMCSXWQSNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N neopentyl glycol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)CO SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- IOQPZZOEVPZRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octan-1-amine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCN IOQPZZOEVPZRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 235000010603 pastilles Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000011056 performance test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940066842 petrolatum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920005906 polyester polyol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005056 polyisocyanate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001228 polyisocyanate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000056 polyoxyethylene ether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001451 polypropylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002223 polystyrene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001343 polytetrafluoroethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004810 polytetrafluoroethylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088417 precipitated calcium carbonate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003141 primary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- ZNZJJSYHZBXQSM-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-2,2-diamine Chemical compound CC(C)(N)N ZNZJJSYHZBXQSM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
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- 229920005573 silicon-containing polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000661 sodium alginate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940005550 sodium alginate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940101011 sodium hydroxymethylglycinate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001540 sodium lactate Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940005581 sodium lactate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000011088 sodium lactate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940045920 sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940045898 sodium stearoyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KDHFCTLPQJQDQI-BDQAORGHSA-M sodium;(4s)-4-amino-5-octadecanoyloxy-5-oxopentanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC([O-])=O KDHFCTLPQJQDQI-BDQAORGHSA-M 0.000 description 1
- VRRABDXZDGRGPC-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-(2-aminoethylamino)ethanesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].NCCNCCS([O-])(=O)=O VRRABDXZDGRGPC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- CITBNDNUEPMTFC-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-(hydroxymethylamino)acetate Chemical compound [Na+].OCNCC([O-])=O CITBNDNUEPMTFC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- HYRLWUFWDYFEES-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-oxopyrrolidine-1-carboxylate Chemical class [Na+].[O-]C(=O)N1CCCC1=O HYRLWUFWDYFEES-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000011343 solid material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940001941 soy protein Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000001228 spectrum Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012177 spermaceti Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940084106 spermaceti Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-N sulfonic acid Chemical group OS(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000020238 sunflower seed Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960003080 taurine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- YLQBMQCUIZJEEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetrahydrofuran Natural products C=1C=COC=1 YLQBMQCUIZJEEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019871 vegetable fat Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000005303 weighing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009736 wetting Methods 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/925—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of animal origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Zoology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Insects & Arthropods (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular mascara, a process for its preparation and its use. The cosmetic composition comprises at least one bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion; at least one bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2; at least one wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃; at least one wax having a melting point above 65 ℃; and optionally a cosmetically acceptable medium; the biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a solids content of 3 wt.% to 9 wt.%, the amount of the di-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 is 3 wt.% to 9 wt.%, the sum of the weight of the wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃ and the wax having a melting point of more than 65 ℃ is 4 wt.% to 10 wt.%, the weight ratio is 0.1 to 1.5, the weight percentages being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition, a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
Mascara is an important part of daily make-up. Mascara can be classified into washable and anhydrous dosage forms. In terms of safety, the washable type mascara can replace volatile solvents in anhydrous dosage forms with water, so that the irritation of mascara is greatly reduced, and the safety is improved. In the aspect of anti-halation, the anhydrous dosage form generally needs to be added with high proportion of solid grease, so that halation is easy to generate, and the film forming agent in the washable type can form a hydrophobic and oleophobic solid film, so that halation is improved. In terms of easy removability, the water-washable formulation can be easily removed with warm water, eliminating the need for the use of oil-soluble make-up removers for anhydrous formulations. Therefore, the water washable type clothes are popular with consumers.
In order to ensure high consistency of eyelashes, more film forming agent or wax needs to be added into the washable mascara, which can lead to poor curling degree of the brush-coated eyelashes, meanwhile, adhesion is easy to occur between the eyelashes in the brushing process, and particularly, visible caking phenomenon, commonly known as 'fly legs', is caused at the tips of the eyelashes. Therefore, it is desirable to develop a washable mascara that not only provides good curl of eyelashes, but also does not cause clumping of the eyelashes.
US9072686B2 discloses a mascara composition comprising at least one polyurethane composition and at least one hard wax, wherein the hard wax content is at least 12% by weight or more, providing a brush comfort, an improved thickening and curling.
CN 104994837A discloses a composition comprising a latex film former comprising a wax dispersion and a thermoreversible gel polymer.
CN101039719a discloses an emulsion mascara containing an imide polymer with film-forming properties, wax, water and pigment or colorant.
Disclosure of Invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition, in particular mascara, a process for its preparation and its use.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the following components:
a) At least one bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion;
b) At least one bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2;
c) At least one wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃;
d) At least one wax having a melting point above 65 ℃; and
e) Optionally a cosmetically acceptable medium;
wherein the biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a solids content of 3 wt.% to 9 wt.%, the amount of bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 is 3 wt.% to 9 wt.%, the sum of the weight of the wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃ and the wax having a melting point of more than 65 ℃ is 4 wt.% to 10 wt.%, and the weight ratio is 0.1 to 1.5, the weight percentages being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a process for preparing a cosmetic composition as provided herein, by mixing component a) a bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion, component b) di-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2, component c) a wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃, component d) a wax having a melting point of more than 65 ℃ and optionally component e) a cosmetically acceptable medium.
According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided the use of a cosmetic composition provided according to the present invention to apply to keratin fibres to care for or to decorate the keratin fibres.
According to still another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a mascara comprising the cosmetic composition provided according to the present invention.
The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises components such as bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion and the like, and has good safety, anti-halation property and easy detachment property. The cosmetic composition of the invention has proper adhesiveness and smoothness, can wrap keratin fibers, especially eyelashes, and has the advantages of high density, no loss of naturalness, no caking and high curling degree. The cosmetic composition of the present invention has good instant curling and curling durability properties.
Drawings
Fig. 1 shows a photograph taken from the side of the eye, wherein the point a is taken as the apex of the eyelash on the same plane as the maximum cross section of the eyeball, the point B is taken along the corner of the eye, and the intersection angle α is taken along the parallel portion of the photograph.
Detailed Description
The invention provides a cosmetic composition, which comprises the following components: a) At least one bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion; b) At least one bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2; c) At least one wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃; d) At least one wax having a melting point above 65 ℃; and e) optionally a cosmetically acceptable medium; wherein the biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a solids content of 3 to 9 wt%, the amount of the di-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 is 3 to 9 wt%, the sum of the weight of the wax having a melting point of not higher than 65 ℃ and the wax having a melting point of higher than 65 ℃ is 4 to 10 wt%, and the weight ratio is 0.1 to 1.5, all based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The invention also provides a preparation method and application of the cosmetic composition.
The term "keratin fibers" refers to a imitation of eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, or hair.
The term "mascara" is a generic term for mascara compositions, mascara underlayers, mascara topcoats, and make-up mascara care compositions.
Component a) biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersions
The term "biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion" refers to a dispersion that meets international standard ISO 16128-1: 2016 naturally derived ingredient is defined as having no less than 50% of the carbon atoms of natural origin in the dispersion of all carbon atoms in the dispersion.
Within the scope of the present invention, the term "water-insoluble, non-water-dispersible isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymer" means that the prepolymer has a solubility in water at 23 ℃ of less than 10 g/liter and that the prepolymer does not give rise to a sedimentation-stable dispersion in water (especially deionized water) at 23 ℃. In other words, in experiments in which it was dispersed in water, the prepolymer precipitated out.
The bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion may be added to the cosmetic composition in solid or dispersion form, preferably in dispersion form, i.e. in aqueous polyurethane dispersion form. The bio-based polyurethane added to the cosmetic composition in solid form may be dispersed in water of the cosmetic composition to form a bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion.
For a substance in the form of a dispersion, the solid weight of the aqueous polyurethane dispersion, i.e. the weight of the active component of the aqueous polyurethane dispersion = the weight of the dispersion x the solid content of the dispersion. For solid materials containing water of crystallization, the solid weight of the aqueous polyurethane dispersion, i.e., the weight of the active component of the aqueous polyurethane dispersion = the weight of the material-the weight of the water of crystallization.
The solids content of the bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion is preferably from 4 wt% to 8 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion is preferably an anionic bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion.
The anionic biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion is preferably obtained by reacting a system comprising at least one water-insoluble, non-water-dispersible isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymer a 1) and at least one isocyanate-reactive compound a 2).
The anionic biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion preferably comprises at least one sulphonic acid group and/or sulphonate group, most preferably comprises at least one sodium sulphonate group.
The number average molecular weight of the anionic biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion is preferably 4000g/mol to 8000g/mol.
Water-insoluble, non-water-dispersible isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymers a 1)
The water insoluble, non-water dispersible isocyanate functional polyurethane prepolymer preferably has terminal isocyanate groups, i.e., the isocyanate groups are located at the prepolymer chain ends, most preferably all chain ends of the polyurethane prepolymer have isocyanate groups.
The water insoluble, non-water dispersible isocyanate functional polyurethane prepolymer is substantially free of ionic groups and/or ion source groups.
The water insoluble, non-water dispersible isocyanate functional polyurethane prepolymers can be prepared by reacting a polyester polyol with a polyisocyanate having a glass transition temperature of at least-50 ℃.
Isocyanate-reactive compound a 2)
The isocyanate-reactive compound is preferably an amino-functional compound.
The amino-functional compound is preferably one or more of the following: primary, secondary, and diamines, with diamines being most preferred.
The amino-functional compound preferably comprises an amino-functional compound having no ionic group or ion source group and an amino-functional compound having an ionic group or ion source group.
The amino-functional compound having no ionic group or ion source group is preferably one or more of the following: organic diamines, polyamines, primary and secondary amino group-containing compounds, amino group (primary or secondary) and hydroxyl group-containing compounds and monofunctional isocyanate-reactive amine compounds.
The organic diamine is preferably one or more of the following: 1, 2-ethylenediamine, 1, 2-and 1, 3-diaminopropane, 1, 4-diaminobutane, 1, 6-diaminohexane, isophoronediamine, isomer mixtures of 2, 4-and 2, 4-trimethylhexamethylenediamine, 2-methylpentamethylenediamine, 4-diaminodicyclohexylmethane, hydrazine hydrate and dimethylethylenediamine.
The polyamine is preferably diethylenetriamine.
The primary and secondary amino group-containing compounds are preferably one or more of the following: diethanolamine, 3-amino-1-methylaminopropane, 3-amino-1-ethylaminopropane, 3-amino-1-cyclohexylaminopropane and 3-amino-1-methylaminobutane.
The alkanolamine of the compound containing an amino group (primary or secondary) and a hydroxyl group is preferably one or more of the following: n-aminoethylethanolamine, ethanolamine, 3-aminopropanol and pivalolamine.
The monofunctional isocyanate-reactive amine compound is preferably one or more of the following: methyl amine, ethyl amine, propyl amine, butyl amine, octyl amine, lauryl amine, stearyl amine, isononyl oxypropyl amine, dimethyl amine, diethyl amine, dipropyl amine, dibutyl amine, N-methyl aminopropyl amine, diethyl (methyl) aminopropyl amine, morpholine, piperidine and suitable substituted derivatives thereof.
The amino-functional compound having no ionic group or ion source group is most preferably a diamine having no ionic group or ion source group.
The amino-functional compound having an ionic group or ion source group is preferably an anionic hydrophilizing compound.
The anionic hydrophilizing compound is preferably one or more of the following: 2- (2-aminoethylamino) ethanesulfonic acid, ethylenediamine-propyl-or-butyl-sulfonic acid, 1, 2-or 1, 3-propylenediamine- β -ethanesulfonic acid and taurine and salts thereof, further preferably those containing sulfonate groups as ionic groups and containing two amino groups, most preferably one or more of the following: 2- (2-aminoethylamino) ethyl sulfonate and 1, 3-propanediamine- β -ethyl sulfonate.
The anionic biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion is preferably obtained by the reaction of: succinic acid, 1, 4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate are reacted to form a prepolymer, which is further reacted with sodium N- (2-aminoethyl) -2-aminoethane sulfonate and isophorone diamine.
The anionic biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion most preferably one or more of the following: INCI (International cosmetic raw Material name) polyurethane-93 and polyurethane 99.
Preparation of anionic biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersions
The preparation method of the anionic bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion comprises the following steps:
preparing a water-insoluble, non-water-dispersible isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymer a 1);
reacting the polyurethane prepolymer a 1) and the isocyanate-reactive compound a 2); and
the anionic biobased polyurethane is dispersed in water before, during or after the reaction.
The anionic bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion comprises anionic groups introduced by the amino-functional compound having ionic groups or ion source groups in the isocyanate-reactive compound.
The preparation of the anionic biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion can be carried out in one or more stages in a homogeneous phase or for a multistage reaction, partly in a disperse phase. The preparation method of the anionic bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion can be a prepolymer mixing method, an acetone method or a melt dispersion method, and is most preferably an acetone method.
The equivalent ratio of isocyanate groups to isocyanate-reactive groups is preferably from 1.05 to 3.5, more preferably from 1.1 to 3.0, most preferably from 1.1 to 2.5.
The solid component content of the anionic biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion is preferably 30% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the anionic biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion. The solids content was calculated by heating the weighed sample to a constant weight at 125℃and reweighing the sample at a constant weight.
Component b) bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2
The amount of the di-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 is preferably 4 wt% to 8 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 is preferably obtained by esterification of a system comprising adipic acid, mixed acids (caprylic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and hydroxystearic acid) and diglycerol.
The bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 preferably corresponds to the following structure:
the bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 is most preferably Softisan 649.
The term "melting point" refers to the temperature at which the state of matter is transformed from a solid state, i.e. melted into a liquid state. The melting point of the waxes of the invention is measured according to GB/T617-2006.
Component c) waxes having a melting point of not more than 65 DEG C
The wax having a melting point of not higher than 65 ℃ is preferably a wax having a melting point of 55 ℃ to 65 ℃, most preferably one or more of the following: spermaceti, beeswax, lacquer fruit wax, aromatic wax and paraffin.
The wax having a melting point of not higher than 65 ℃ may be added to the cosmetic composition alone or may be added to the cosmetic composition after being mixed with other components in advance.
Component d) waxes with melting points above 65 DEG C
The wax having a melting point above 65 ℃ is preferably a wax having a melting point of 68 ℃ to 88 ℃, most preferably one or more of the following: carnauba wax, candelilla wax, microcrystalline wax, and ceresin.
The wax having a melting point higher than 65 ℃ may be added to the cosmetic composition alone or may be added to the cosmetic composition after being premixed with other components.
The weight of the wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃ and the wax having a melting point of more than 65 ℃ and most preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The weight ratio of the wax with the melting point not higher than 65 ℃ to the wax with the melting point higher than 65 ℃ is 0.1-1.5.
Component e) cosmetically acceptable medium
The cosmetically acceptable medium is one that is physically and chemically compatible with the components of the cosmetic composition of the present invention and that is useful in cosmetics.
The amount of the cosmetically acceptable medium may be an amount well known to those skilled in the art. The amount of the cosmetically acceptable medium is most preferably from 40 wt% to 80 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably one or more of the following: water, thickener, grease, emulsifier, preservative, humectant, filler, pigment and film forming agent.
The water is preferably deionized water.
The thickener is preferably one or more of the following: acrylic, celluloses, diatomaceous earth, carbomers, starches, gelatin, sodium alginate, casein, guar gum, chitosan, gum arabic, xanthan gum, soy protein gum, bentonite, hectorite, lanolin and its derivatives, fatty alcohols and behenates, most preferably one or more of the following: xanthan gum and behenate.
The amount of the thickener is preferably 0 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The emulsifier is preferably one or more of the following: carboxylates, sulphates, sulphonates, amine derivatives, alkyl ethers, stearyl esters, polyoxyethylene ethers, polyoxypropylene ethers, olive oil esters and glutamates, most preferably one or more of the following: stearyl esters, olive oleates, and glutamic acids.
The amount of the emulsifier is preferably 0 to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The grease is preferably one or more of the following: vegetable fats and oils, animal fats and oils, mineral fats and oils, and synthetic fats and oils, further preferably one or more of the following: olive oil, coconut oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, almond oil, peanut oil, corn oil, rice bran oil, tea seed oil, sea buckthorn oil, avocado oil, stone chestnut oil, european nut oil, walnut oil, cocoa butter, mink oil, egg oil, lanolin oil, lecithin, squalane, lanolin derivatives, polysiloxanes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and petrolatum, most preferably one or more of the following: olive oil, coconut oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, almond oil, peanut oil, corn oil, rice bran oil, tea seed oil, sea buckthorn oil, avocado oil, stone chestnut oil, european nut oil, walnut oil, cocoa butter, squalane of vegetable origin, lanolin derivative fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters.
The amount of the oil or fat is preferably 0 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The preservative is preferably one or more of the following: alcohols, formaldehyde donors, aldehyde derivatives, benzoic acid derivatives, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate and p-hydroxy ethanone, further preferably octanoyl hydroxamic acid, 1,2 hexanediol and 1,3 propanediol complexes, most preferably spectra stat PHL.
The amount of the preservative is preferably 0 to 2 wt%, most preferably 0.5 to 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The humectant preferably comprises one or more of the following: polyols, amides, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, glucose esters, collagen, chitin derivatives and chitosan, further preferably polyols, most preferably one or more of the following: sorbitol and propylene glycol.
The humectant is preferably present in an amount of 0 to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The filler is preferably one or more of the following: an organic powder filler and an inorganic powder filler.
The inorganic powder filler is preferably one or more of the following: silica, diatomaceous earth, layered silicate powder, precipitated calcium carbonate, phosphate and aluminum hydroxide. The layered silicate powder preferably comprises one or more of the following: kaolin, bentonite, talcum powder and mica powder.
The organic powder filling material is preferably one or more of the following: cellulose, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polystyrene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, synthetic wax micropowder, zinc stearate and magnesium stearate. The amount of filler is preferably 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The pigment is preferably one or more of the following: iron oxide, carbon black, mica, and a colorant.
The amount of pigment is preferably 0 to 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The film former is preferably one or more of the following: acrylic polymers, silicone polymers, vinyl acetate polymers, and vinyl pyrrolidone polymers.
Cosmetic composition
The cosmetic composition may be a mascara.
Examples
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. To the extent that the definitions of terms in this specification are inconsistent with the ordinary understanding of those skilled in the art to which this invention pertains, the definitions described herein control.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth herein are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties to be obtained.
As used herein, "and/or" means one or all of the elements mentioned.
The use of "including" and "comprising" herein encompasses both the situation in which only the elements are mentioned and the situation in which other elements not mentioned are present in addition to the elements mentioned.
All percentages in the present invention are by weight and are based on 100% by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.
The number average molecular weight was measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) using tetrahydrofuran as a eluent in accordance with GB/T21863-2008 Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC).
Analytical measurements according to the invention were carried out at 23.+ -. 2 ℃ unless otherwise indicated.
The solids content of the aqueous polyurethane dispersion was calculated by heating the weighed sample to a constant weight at 125℃and re-weighing the sample at a constant weight.
Raw materials and reagents
1, 3-propanediol: reagent grade.
Sorbitol: reagent grade.
Iron oxide black: INCI is named iron oxide, available from Sensient Unipure Black989.
Keltrol CG-T: INCI is xanthan gum (commonly known as xanthan gum) available from CP Kelco.
Emulium Dolcea MB: INCI's are known as cetostearyl alcohol (and) glycerol stearate (and) jojoba esters (and) sunflower seed wax (and) sodium stearoyl glutamate (and) water (and) polyglycerol-3, available from Gattefosse Inc.
1000: INCI is known as cetostearyl oleate (and sorbitan olive oleate, available from Hallstar corporation.
GMS-SE: INCI is known as glycerol stearate SE, available from BASF corporation.
Softisan 649: INCI was designated bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2, available from Cremer Care Inc.
Compritol 888 CG ATO: INCI is known as glyceryl behenate and is available from Gattefoss Corp.
8044-1: INCI is known as white beeswax, melting point 63-65deg.C, available from TerWax company.
Candelillawax Refined In Pastilles/leakes: INCI is named candelilla wax, melting point: 69-73℃from TerWax.
Carnauba Wax T1& T3: INCI is named carnauba wax, melting point: 82-85℃from TerWax.
Spectratat PHL: INCI is known as octanoyl hydroxamic acid and 1,2 hexanediol and 1,3 propanediol, available from INOLEX corporation.
Polyurethane-99: the biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion was supplied as an aqueous dispersion with a solids content of 40% by weight and was purchased from kesi corporation.
PB 680: INCI is known as hydrogenated polyisobutene, available from Korean Dalin.
Myritol 318: caprylic/capric triglyceride, available from BASF corporation.
#1 polyurethane-35: baycsan C1004/1, available from Kogyo Co.
Polyurethane-48: baycsan C1008/1, available from Kogyo Co.
#2 polyurethane-35: baycsan C1010, available from Kogyo Co.
5778: INCI's are known as acrylic acid (ester) copolymers/ethylhexyl acrylate and acrylic acid (ester) copolymers/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, with a solids content of 40% by weight, obtainable from Zschimmer&Schwarz company.
Preparation of cosmetic compositions
Adding 1, 3-propylene glycol and xanthan gum into a beaker according to the components listed in the table, dispersing uniformly, adding deionized water, stirring to a transparent state, dissolving sorbitol, adding into the beaker, and stirring uniformly to obtain phase A. And (3) completely melting all B phase components except the iron oxide black at 80 ℃, adding the iron oxide black, and uniformly stirring to obtain the B phase. The components of phase C are mixed to give phase C. Heating phase A to 80deg.C, adding phase B slowly into phase A, stirring rapidly for 5 min, homogenizing at 7000rpm for 10 min, cooling to 45deg.C, and adding phase C to obtain cosmetic composition.
Performance testing
1. Smoothness degree of smoothness
The eyelash curler is used for curling eyelash, the cosmetic composition is brushed for 10 times from the root of eyelash to the tail of eyelash in a Z shape, the smooth feeling of the composition on eyelash is sensed, and the grade of the composition is 1-5 minutes from low to high, and is qualified by 4 minutes or more. 1, the method comprises the following steps: the composition is difficult to brush on eyelashes and is very dry and astringent to brush; 2, the method comprises the following steps: the composition can be brushed on eyelashes, but the brush coating is not smooth; 3, the method comprises the following steps: the composition was able to brush on eyelashes but not too smooth, 4 minutes: the composition was smooth when brushed on eyelashes, 5 points: the composition was not Chang Shunhua when brushed on the lashes.
2. Density of concentration
The false eyelashes are fixed on a cylinder with double faced adhesive tape, the mascara is brushed for 10 times in a Z shape from top to bottom, and then the mascara is brushed for 10 times in a Z shape from bottom to top, the density is judged according to the amount of the composition on the eyelashes, and the score is 1-5 minutes from low to high, and the score is 4 or more. 1, the method comprises the following steps: the eyelashes have no change compared with the prior brush; 2, the method comprises the following steps: the eyelashes are slightly changed but not obvious before brushing; 3, the method comprises the following steps: the eyelashes become slightly thicker than before brushing; 4, the following steps: the eyelashes become significantly coarser and darker than before brushing; 5, the method comprises the following steps: the eyelashes become very dark and thicker than before.
3. Natural make-up feel
Brushing the cosmetic composition from the root of eyelash to the tail of eyelash for 10 times in a Z-shaped manner, observing caking and cohesiveness phenomenon on eyelash, wherein the caking phenomenon is the phenomenon that the tail of eyelash is suddenly bent or the eyelash is suddenly thickened; the cohesiveness refers to the phenomenon that five or more lashes are stuck together in a bundle. The score is based on the total number of lashes Mao Weibu which are bent, suddenly thickened and stuck together in a bundle-by-bundle state, and the score is 1-5 from low to high, and the score is 4 or more. 1, the method comprises the following steps: the total number is more than 30;2, the method comprises the following steps: the total number is more than 22 and not more than 30;3, the method comprises the following steps: the total number is more than 18 and not more than 22;4, the following steps: the total number is more than 6 and not more than 18;5, the method comprises the following steps: the total number is not more than 6.
4. Instant curling
The cosmetic composition was brushed 10 times from the root of eyelash to the tail of eyelash in a zigzag shape, the photographing angle was fixed, and photographing was performed from the side of eyes, as shown in fig. 1, the point a was taken as the ciliary apex of the same plane as the maximum cross section of eyeball, the point B was taken along the corner of eye, and the intersection angle α was taken along the parallel part of the picture. The instant curling degree is defined according to the alpha size, the curling degree is recorded as 1-5 minutes from small to big, and 5 minutes are qualified. 1, the method comprises the following steps: the instant curling alpha is smaller than 24 degrees; 2, the method comprises the following steps: the instant curling alpha is not less than 24 degrees and less than 26 degrees; 3, the method comprises the following steps: the instant curling alpha is not less than 26 degrees and less than 31 degrees; 4, the following steps: the instant curling alpha is not less than 31 DEG and less than 34 DEG for 5 minutes: even though the curl a is not less than 34.
5. Durable curling
The cosmetic composition was brushed 10 times from the root of eyelash in a zigzag manner toward the tail of eyelash, the degree of permanent curling of eyelash was observed after 8 hours, and the permanent curling alpha was marked with reference to the instant curling alpha method. The angle decrease rate is calculated, angle decrease rate= (instant curling a-permanent curling a)/instant curling a.
The angle reduction rate is preferably 1-5 minutes from the difference, and 3 minutes or more are qualified. 1, the method comprises the following steps: the angle reduction rate is more than 30%;2, the method comprises the following steps: the angle decrease rate is more than 20% and not more than 30%;3, the method comprises the following steps: the angle decrease rate is more than 10% and not more than 20%;4, the following steps: the angle decrease rate is more than 3% and not more than 10%;5, the method comprises the following steps: the angle decrease rate is not more than 3%.
6. Anti-halation dye
The cosmetic composition is brushed from the root of eyelash to the tail of eyelash for 10 times in a Z shape, and after 8 hours, the residue drop situation around eyes is observed, and the mark is 1-5 minutes from low to high, and 5 minutes are qualified. 1, the method comprises the following steps: the number of black particles around the eyes is more than 20; 2, the method comprises the following steps: the number of black particles around the eyes is more than 8 and not more than 20; 3, the method comprises the following steps: the number of black particles around the eyes is more than 4 and not more than 8; 4, the following steps: the number of black particles around the eyes is more than 1 and not more than 4; 5, the method comprises the following steps: the number of particles around the eyes is not more than 1.
7. Easy to be removed
Fixing false eyelashes on a cylinder adhered with double faced adhesive tape, brushing the cosmetic composition in a Z shape from top to bottom for 10 times, brushing the cosmetic composition in a Z shape from bottom to top for 10 times, taking off the false eyelashes after the composition is completely dried, wetting one piece of cosmetic cotton with water at 45 ℃, putting the false eyelashes on the cosmetic cotton, folding the cosmetic cotton for ten times, and observing the residual condition of the composition on the false eyelashes from left to right, wherein the mark is 1-5 minutes from low to high, and the mark is 4 minutes or more. 1, the method comprises the following steps: less than 20% of the mascara is removed by the cosmetic cotton; 2, the method comprises the following steps: not less than 20% and less than 40% of the mascara is discharged by the cosmetic cotton; 3, the method comprises the following steps: not less than 40% and less than 60% of the mascara is discharged by the cosmetic cotton; 4, the following steps: not less than 60% and less than 80% of the mascara is discharged by the cosmetic cotton; 5, the method comprises the following steps: not less than 80% of the mascara is discharged by the cosmetic cotton.
Cosmetic compositions of examples and comparative examples
Table 1 shows the compositions of the cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 5 of the present invention and comparative examples 1 to 15, and the results of performance test.
The eyelashes brushed with the cosmetic compositions of examples 1-5 have good smoothness, consistency, natural make-up feel, instant curl, long-lasting curl, anti-halation, and easy removal properties.
The cosmetic compositions of comparative example 1-comparative example 3 contained bis-diglycerol polyacyl hexadioate-2 in an amount of 0,2 wt% or 10 wt%, respectively, and the eyelashes brushed therewith did not give a compromise between consistency, immediate curling and natural make-up feel.
The cosmetic compositions of comparative examples 2 and 3 contained the wax in an amount of less than 4 wt% or more than 10 wt%, and the eyelashes brushed therewith did not satisfy both natural make-up feeling and instant curling.
The cosmetic compositions of comparative examples 4 and 5 contain caprylic/capric triglyceride or hydrogenated poly (isobutylene), and eyelashes brushed therewith do not give a compromise between smoothness, consistency, natural make-up feel and instant curling.
The cosmetic compositions of comparative examples 6-8 comprise a weight ratio of the two waxes of component c and component d of less than 0.1 or greater than 1.5, and the lashes brushed therewith do not compromise natural make-up, instant curling and anti-halation.
The cosmetic compositions of comparative examples 9-11 contained biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersions having a solids content of less than 3 wt% or greater than 9 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and the lashes brushed therewith did not compromise instant curling, anti-halation, smoothness and natural make-up feel.
The cosmetic compositions of comparative examples 12-14 contained aqueous polyurethane dispersions that were not biobased and the lashes brushed therewith were immediately discounted.
The cosmetic composition of comparative example 15 does not contain an aqueous polyurethane dispersion, and eyelashes brushed therewith do not compromise smoothness, instant curling, and easy removal properties.
It will be evident to those skilled in the art that the invention is not limited to the precise details set forth, and that the invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics thereof. The described embodiments are therefore to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, the scope of the invention being indicated by the appended claims rather than by the foregoing description; and therefore any changes which come within the meaning and range of equivalency of the claims are to be embraced within their scope.
Claims (14)
1. A cosmetic composition comprising the following components:
a) At least one bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion;
b) At least one bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2;
c) At least one wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃;
d) At least one wax having a melting point above 65 ℃; and
e) Optionally a cosmetically acceptable medium;
wherein the biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a solids content of 3 wt.% to 9 wt.%, the amount of bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 is 3 wt.% to 9 wt.%, the sum of the weight of the wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃ and the wax having a melting point of more than 65 ℃ is 4 wt.% to 10 wt.%, and the weight ratio is 0.1 to 1.5, the weight percentages being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃ is a wax having a melting point of 55 ℃ to 65 ℃.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the wax having a melting point higher than 65 ℃ is a wax having a melting point between 68 ℃ and 88 ℃.
4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the sum of the weight of the wax having a melting point of not more than 65 ℃ and the wax having a melting point of more than 65 ℃ is 5 to 10% by weight,
based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion is obtained by reacting a system comprising at least one water-insoluble, non-water-dispersible isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymer a 1) and at least one isocyanate-reactive compound a 2).
6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion comprises at least one sulfonic acid group and/or sulfonate group.
7. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-6, wherein the biobased aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a solids content of 4 wt.% to 8 wt.% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
8. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-7, wherein the bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 conforms to the structure:
9. the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-8, wherein the amount of bis-diglyceride-polyacyl adipate-2 is from 4 wt.% to 8 wt.% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
10. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-9, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is one or more of the following: water, thickener, grease, emulsifier, preservative and humectant.
11. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-10, wherein the cosmetic composition is a mascara.
12. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, by mixing component a) a bio-based aqueous polyurethane dispersion, component b) di-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2, component c) a wax having a melting point not higher than 65 ℃, component d) a wax having a melting point higher than 65 ℃ and optionally component e) a cosmetically acceptable medium.
13. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 to apply to keratin fibres to care or to decorate the keratin fibres.
14. A mascara comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.
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