CN116889515A - Non-emulsified cream with unique skin feel - Google Patents
Non-emulsified cream with unique skin feel Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116889515A CN116889515A CN202311065290.3A CN202311065290A CN116889515A CN 116889515 A CN116889515 A CN 116889515A CN 202311065290 A CN202311065290 A CN 202311065290A CN 116889515 A CN116889515 A CN 116889515A
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- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- phase
- cream
- skin
- emulsified
- examples
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- ZQTYRTSKQFQYPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N trisiloxane Chemical compound [SiH3]O[SiH2]O[SiH3] ZQTYRTSKQFQYPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a non-emulsified cream with unique skin feel, which comprises the following components: a) A phase a comprising 1-5 wt% trehalose, 1-5 wt% erythritol, and water; b) Phase B, the oil phase comprising 1-5 wt% caprylic/capric triglyceride; c) Phase C comprising 1-5 wt% humectant and 0.1-1 wt% thickener, wherein the thickener is sodium carbomer. The invention also relates to a preparation method of the non-emulsified cream.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to non-emulsified cream with unique skin feel.
Background
Emulsifiers are substances which improve the surface tension between the various constituent phases in the emulsion and form a homogeneous stable dispersion or emulsion. The emulsifier molecules have both hydrophilic and lipophilic groups, which accumulate at the oil/water interface, which reduces interfacial tension and reduces the energy required to form the emulsion, thereby increasing the energy of the emulsion.
The emulsifier is one of important components of cosmetics, and has important functions on the formation, physical and chemical properties, appearance and application of cosmetics. The current classification of emulsifiers mainly includes: 1. an anionic emulsifier; 2.a cationic emulsifier; 3. zwitterionic emulsifiers; and 4. Nonionic emulsifier.
The general emulsion cream uses an emulsifier to ensure the stability of a product system and ensure that water and oil are not layered, the existing standard QB/T1857 aims at skin cream, and the GB/T29665 aims at skin care emulsion, and the two standard objects are products containing the emulsifier. There is not much research and attention directed to cream products that do not contain emulsifiers.
The invention surprisingly finds a non-emulsified cream which has unique skin feel compared with the traditional emulsified cream.
Disclosure of Invention
In one aspect, the present invention provides a non-emulsifying cream with a unique skin feel comprising:
a) A phase a comprising 1-5 wt% trehalose, 1-5 wt% erythritol, and water;
b) Phase B, the oil phase comprising 1-5 wt% caprylic/capric triglyceride;
c) Phase C comprising 1-5 wt% humectant and 0.1-1 wt% thickener, wherein the thickener is sodium carbomer.
In a preferred embodiment, the phase A further comprises from 0.1 to 1% by weight of p-hydroxyacetophenone. In a preferred embodiment, the C phase comprises 3 wt% glycerol. In a preferred embodiment, the phase a comprises 2 wt% trehalose and 3 wt% erythritol. In a preferred embodiment, the B phase comprises 2 wt% caprylic/capric triglyceride. In a preferred embodiment, the phase C comprises 0.45 to 0.65 weight percent sodium carbomer.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a method of preparing a non-emulsifying cream with a unique skin feel, comprising:
(1) Respectively weighing phase A, phase B and phase C in the non-emulsified cream;
(2) Mixing the phase A components to dissolve the phase A components;
(3) Adding phase B component, homogenizing;
(4) Adding phase C component, homogenizing to obtain non-emulsified cream.
In a preferred embodiment, said step (2) is performed in a heated state of 80-85 ℃. In a preferred embodiment, said step (3) is carried out at a temperature of 40-45 ℃ for 5-10 minutes of homogenization. In a preferred embodiment, said step (4) is carried out at a temperature of 40-45 ℃ for 10-30 minutes of homogenization.
Drawings
Figure 1 shows the appearance of the non-emulsified creams of examples 1-4 and the emulsified skin cream of the comparative example.
Detailed Description
It is believed that one skilled in the art can, based on the description herein, utilize the present invention to its fullest extent. The following specific embodiments are to be construed as merely illustrative, and not limitative of the remainder of the disclosure in any way whatsoever.
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. In addition, all publications, patent applications, patents, and other references mentioned herein are incorporated by reference. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages used to express the amounts of the ingredients are weight percentages (i.e.,% (W/W)). Similarly, the weight ratio used to express the relative proportions of the ingredients is also determined by weight percent (i.e., the weight ratio is calculated by dividing the weight percent of one ingredient by the weight percent of the other ingredient). All ranges are inclusive unless otherwise stated.
As used herein, a "product" is optionally in the form of a finished package. In one embodiment, the package is a container, such as a plastic, metal or glass tube or can, that contains the composition. The product may also contain additional packaging, such as plastic or cardboard boxes for storing such containers. In one embodiment, the product comprises a composition of the invention and contains instructions directing the user to apply the composition to the skin or hair.
As used herein, "topical application" means, for example, spreading or spreading directly on the external skin, scalp or hair by hand or with an applicator such as a wipe, roller or sprayer.
As used herein, "cosmetic" refers to a cosmetic substance or article that can maintain, restore, impart, stimulate, or enhance the appearance of a body or appear to enhance a beauty or youthful appearance, particularly when it relates to the appearance of tissue or skin.
As used herein, "cosmetically acceptable" means that the ingredients described by the term are suitable for use in contact with tissue (e.g., skin or hair) without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic response, and the like.
As described herein, applicants have discovered a non-emulsifying cream with a unique skin feel comprising: a) A phase a, which is an aqueous phase; b) Phase B, wherein the phase B is an oil phase; and C) a C phase comprising a humectant and a thickener.
The composition of the present invention is excellent in all of appearance preference, water repellency, absorbency, spreadability and the like. Compared with emulsified skin cream, the oil-in-water system is formed by adding the emulsifier, emulsified particles are formed, and the oil is released in the use process through a demulsification step, so that the oil is released more rapidly than the non-emulsified skin cream, and the difference in skin feel exists. The skin feel of the non-emulsified skin cream has unique characteristics, and can give a user a special use experience.
The composition of the present invention comprises greater than 80% by weight water. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises greater than 85% by weight water.
In some embodiments, phase a comprises trehalose, erythritol, and water. For example, phase A comprises 1-5 wt% trehalose, 1-5 wt% erythritol, and greater than 80 wt% water. In a preferred embodiment, phase a comprises 2 wt% trehalose, 3 wt% erythritol, and greater than 85 wt% water.
In some embodiments, the lipid of phase B is caprylic/capric triglyceride. For example, phase B comprises 1-5 wt% caprylic/capric triglyceride. In a preferred embodiment, phase B comprises 2 wt% caprylic/capric triglyceride.
In some embodiments, the humectant of phase C is glycerin and the thickener is sodium carbomer. In some embodiments, phase C comprises 1-5% by weight glycerol and 0.1-1% by weight sodium carbomer. In a preferred embodiment, phase C comprises 3% by weight of glycerol and 0.45 to 0.65% by weight of sodium carbomer.
In some embodiments, phase a further comprises a preservative. For example, phase A contains 0.1 to 1 weight percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone. In a preferred embodiment, phase a comprises 0.5 wt.% p-hydroxyacetophenone.
The composition of the present invention is free of emulsifiers.
Preparation method of non-emulsified cream
The invention also provides a method for preparing the non-emulsified cream with unique skin feel, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Respectively weighing phase A, phase B and phase C in the non-emulsified cream;
(2) Mixing the phase A components to dissolve the phase A components;
(3) Adding phase B component, homogenizing;
(4) Adding phase C component, homogenizing to obtain non-emulsified cream.
In a preferred embodiment, step (2) is carried out in a heated state at 70-90 ℃, preferably 80-85 ℃.
In a preferred embodiment, step (3) is carried out at a temperature of 40-60 ℃, preferably 40-45 ℃, for 5-10 minutes of homogenization.
In a preferred embodiment, step (4) is carried out at a temperature of 40-60 ℃, preferably 40-45 ℃, for a homogenization period of 10-30 minutes.
Additional cosmetic active agents
The compositions of the present invention may also comprise any of a variety of additional cosmetically active agents. Examples of suitable additional active agents include: skin lightening agents, deep color agents, additional anti-aging agents, tropoelastin promoters, collagen promoters, anti-acne agents, oil control gloss agents, antimicrobial agents (such as anti-yeast agents, anti-fungal agents and anti-bacterial agents), anti-inflammatory agents, anti-parasitic agents, external analgesics, sunscreens, photoprotectants, antioxidants, keratolytic agents, detergents/surfactants, humectants, nutrients, vitamins, energy enhancers, antiperspirant agents, astringents, deodorants, depilatory agents, hair growth enhancers, hair growth retardants, solidifying agents, moisturizing agents, synergists, anti-sclerosing agents, skin conditioning agents, anti-cellulite agents, odour control agents such as odour masking agents or pH adjusting agents, and the like.
Examples of various suitable additional cosmetically acceptable actives include hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide, D-panthenol, UV filters such as, but not limited to, avobenzone (Parsol 1789), disodium phenyldibenzoate tetrasulphonate (Neo Heliopan AP), hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoate (Uvinul A Plus), ezz's (Mexoryl Sx), methyl anthranilate, 4-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinoxazate, ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul T150), homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000), octyl methoxycinnamate (Octoxate), octyl salicylate (Octisalate), panamate O (Escalol 507) Polyorganosilicon-15 (Parsol SLX), bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), benzophenone 1-12, dihydroxybenzone, cresol trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), iscotrizinol (Uvasorb HEB), octyl cyanobiphenyl acrylate, hydroxymethoxybenzophenone (Eusolex 4360), sulisobenzone, bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, carotenoids, radical scavengers, spin scavengers, retinoids and retinoid precursors (such as retinol, retinoic acid and retinyl palmitate), ceramides, polyunsaturated fatty acids, essential fatty acids, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors, minerals, hormones (such as estrogens), steroids (such as hydrocortisone, 2-dimethylaminoethanol), copper salts (such as cuprous chloride), copper salts (such as copper chloride), copper-containing peptides, coenzyme Q10, amino acids (such as proline), vitamins, acetyl-coa, niacin, riboflavin, thiamine, ribose, electron transport (such as NADH and FADH 2), and other plant extracts (such as oat, aloe, feverfew, soybean, lentinula edodes extracts), derivatives and mixtures thereof.
In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one additional skin moisturizing active.
In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one additional agent for improving the appearance of at least one sign of skin aging. Examples of suitable additional agents that improve the appearance of at least one sign of skin aging include, but are not limited to, tropoelastin promoters, collagen promoters, retinoids, dimethylaminoethanol, N, N, N ', N' -tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine, and combinations of two or more thereof.
As used herein, "tropoelastin promoter" refers to a class of compounds having biological activity that enhances tropoelastin production. According to the present invention, tropoelastin promoters include all natural or synthetic compounds capable of enhancing the production of tropoelastin in humans.
Examples of suitable tropoelastin promoters include, but are not limited to, blackberry extracts, cotinus coggygria extracts, feverfew extracts, and bimetallic complexes with copper and/or zinc components. The compositions of the present invention may comprise a cosmetically effective amount of one or more tropoelastin accelerators, such as those described above. The composition preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about 10% of a tropoelastin promoter, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of a tropoelastin promoter, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% of a tropoelastin promoter, on an active basis.
"collagen promoter" as used herein refers to a compound having biological activity that enhances collagen production. According to the present invention, "non-retinoid collagen promoter" includes all natural or synthetic compounds which are not retinoids or are derived from retinoids and which are capable of enhancing collagen production in humans.
Examples of suitable collagen promoters include, but are not limited to, the following: comprises retinoids of retinol, retinal and retinoic acid, feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium) extract, centella asiatica (Centella asiatica) extract, and siegesbeckia orientalis (Siegesbeckia orientalis) extract; soybean extract; collagen-promoting peptides; ursolic acid; and asiaticoside.
The compositions of the present invention may comprise a cosmetically effective amount of one or more collagen promoters. The composition preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about 10% collagen promoter, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% collagen promoter, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% collagen promoter, on an active basis.
The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise at least one skin lightening active. Examples of suitable skin lightening agents include, but are not limited to, tyrosinase inhibitors, melanin degrading agents, melanosome transfer inhibitors including PAR-2 antagonists, exfoliants, sunscreens, retinoids, antioxidants, tranexamic acid, skin bleaching agents, linoleic acid, chamomile extract, allantoin, opacifiers, talc and silica, zinc salts, and the like.
Examples of suitable tyrosinase inhibitors include, but are not limited to, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, kojic acid, arbutin, resorcinol, hydroquinone, flavones such as Gan Caolei flavan, licorice root extract, mulberry root extract, dioscorea composita root extract, saxifrage extract and the like, ellagic acid, glucosamine and derivatives, fullerenes, hinokitiol, diacids, acetylglucosamine, 5 '-dipropyl-biphenyl-2, 2' -diol (magnolol), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanol (4-HPB), combinations of two or more thereof, and the like. Examples of vitamin C derivatives include, but are not limited to, ascorbic acid-2-glucoside, and vitamin C-enriched natural extracts. Examples of vitamin E derivatives include, but are not limited to, alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol, delta-tocopherol, alpha-tocotrienol, beta-tocotrienol, gamma-tocotrienol, delta-tocotrienol, and mixtures thereof, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl phosphate, and natural extracts enriched in vitamin E derivatives. Examples of resorcinol derivatives include, but are not limited to, resorcinol, 4-substituted resorcinol such as 4-alkyl resorcinol, such as 4-butyl resorcinol (leco), 4-hexyl resorcinol (Synovea HR, sython), phenethyl resorcinol (symrile), 1- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) -3- (2, 4-dimethoxy-3-methylphenyl) -propane (nivitol, unigen), and the like, as well as natural extracts enriched in resorcinol. In certain preferred embodiments, the tyrosinase inhibitor comprises a 4-substituted resorcinol, a vitamin C derivative, or a vitamin E derivative. In a more preferred embodiment, the tyrosinase inhibitor comprises phenethyl resorcinol, 4-hexyl resorcinol, or ascorbic acid-2-glucoside.
Examples of suitable melanin degrading agents include, but are not limited to, peroxides and enzymes, such as peroxidases and ligninases. In certain preferred embodiments, the melanin inhibiting agent comprises a peroxide or a ligninase.
Examples of suitable melanosome transfer inhibitors include PAR-2 antagonists such as soybean trypsin inhibitors or Bowman-Birk inhibitors, vitamin B3 and derivatives such as niacinamide, soybean serum, whole soybeans, soybean extracts. In certain preferred embodiments, the melanosome transfer inhibitor comprises soybean extract or niacinamide.
Examples of retinoids include, but are not limited to, retinol (retinol), retinaldehyde (vitamin a aldehyde), retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinol Huang Chunya oleate, retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate, isotretinoin, tazorotene, besartan, adapalene, combinations of two or more thereof, and the like. In certain preferred embodiments, the retinoid is selected from: retinol, retinal, retinol acetate, retinol propionate, retinyl Huang Chunya oleate, and combinations of two or more thereof. In certain more preferred embodiments, the retinoid is retinol.
Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, water-soluble antioxidants such as sulfhydryl compounds and derivatives thereof (e.g., N-acetylcysteine, glutathione), lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, stilbene compounds such as resveratrol and derivatives, lactoferrin, iron and copper chelators, and ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., ascorbic acid-2-glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, and ascorbyl polypeptide). Oil-soluble antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids (e.g., retinol and retinol palmitate), tocopherols (e.g., tocopheryl acetate), tocotrienols, and ubiquinones. Natural extracts containing antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to: extracts containing flavonoids and isoflavones and their derivatives (e.g., genistein and lignin isoflavone), extracts containing resveratrol, etc. Examples of such natural extracts include grape seed, green tea, black tea, white tea, pine bark, feverfew, parthenolide-free feverfew, oat extract, blackberry extract, cotinus tinctorius extract, soybean extract, pomelo extract, malt extract, hesperetin, grape extract, purslane extract, licochalcone, chalcone, 2' -dihydroxychalcone, primula extract, propolis, and the like.
The compositions of the present invention may comprise a cosmetically effective amount of one or more anti-inflammatory compounds.
Examples of suitable anti-inflammatory agents include substituted resorcinol, (E) -3- (4-methylphenylsulfonyl) -2-acrylonitrile, tetrahydrocurcumin, and the like.
In one embodiment, the anti-inflammatory agent is resorcinol. Particularly suitable substituted resorcinol include 4-hexyl resorcinol and 4-octyl resorcinol, especially 4-hexyl resorcinol.
Many other materials may optionally be present in the compositions of the present invention. In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises one or more topical ingredients selected from the group consisting of: surfactants, chelating agents, additional emollients, humectants, conditioning agents, preservatives, opacifiers, fragrances and the like.
Additional emollients include compounds that help maintain the soft, smooth, and pliable appearance of the skin (e.g., by remaining on the skin surface or in the stratum corneum to act as lubricants). Examples of suitable emollients include, but are not limited to, petrolatum, hexyldecyl stearate, and vegetable, nut and vegetable oils, such as macadamia nut oil, rice bran oil, grape seed oil, palm oil, evening primrose oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, and avocado oil.
By humectants is meant compounds (e.g., hygroscopic compounds) which aim to increase the water content of the top layer of the skin. Examples of suitable humectants include, but are not limited to, glycerin, sorbitol, or trehalose (e.g., α, α -trehalose, β -trehalose, α, β -trehalose) or esters thereof (e.g., trehalose 6-phosphate).
Suitable surfactants include, but are not limited to, nonionic surfactants (such as alkyl polyglucosides).
Examples of suitable chelating agents include those capable of protecting and retaining the compositions of the present invention. Preferably, the chelating agent is ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid ("EDTA").
Suitable preservatives include, for example, parabens, phenoxyethanol, DMDM hydantoin, and are present in the composition in an amount of from about 0% to about 1% or from about 0.05% to about 0.5% based on the total weight of the composition.
Any of a variety of conditioning agents that impart additional properties to the hair, such as shine, are suitable for use in the present invention. Examples include, but are not limited to, volatile silicone conditioning agents having a boiling point of less than about 220 ℃ at atmospheric pressure. Examples of suitable volatile silicones include, but are not limited to, polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylcyclosiloxanes, hexamethyldisiloxanes, cyclomethicone fluids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably include cyclomethicone fluids.
Any of a variety of commercially available pearlescers or opacifiers are suitable for use in the compositions. Examples of suitable pearlescers or opacifiers include, but are not limited to, (a) fatty acids having from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms and (b) mono-or diesters of ethylene or propylene glycol; (a) A monoester or diester of a fatty acid having from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms and (b) a polyalkylene glycol of the formula: HO- (JO) a -H, wherein J is an alkylene group having from about 2 to about 3 carbon atoms; and a is 2 or 3; fatty alcohols containing from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms; fatty acid esters of the formula: KCOOCH 2 L, wherein K and L independently contain from about 15 to about 21 carbon atoms; inorganic solids insoluble in shampoo compositions, and mixtures thereof.
Any fragrance composition suitable for use on the skin may be used according to the present invention.
The additional cosmetically active agent may be present in the composition in any suitable amount, for example in an amount of about 0.0001% to about 20%, for example about 0.001% to about 10%, such as about 0.01% to about 5%, by weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments in an amount of 0.1% to 5%, and in other preferred embodiments in an amount of 1% to 2%.
The invention also includes methods of improving the barrier function and moisturization of skin by applying the compositions of the invention to skin in need of improvement of the barrier function and moisturization of skin. The method comprises, for example, topically applying the composition to skin in need of improvement of skin barrier function and moisturization. Such topical application may be applied to any skin on the body that needs to be treated, such as the skin of the face, lips, neck, chest, back, arms, armpits, hands, feet and/or legs.
The invention also includes a method of improving the appearance of at least one sign of skin aging by applying to skin in need of improvement of the appearance of at least one sign of skin aging a composition of the invention. The method comprises, for example, topically applying the composition to skin in need of treatment for at least one sign of skin aging. Such topical application may be applied to any skin on the body that needs to be treated, such as the skin of the face, lips, neck, chest, back, arms, armpits, hands, feet and/or legs.
Any suitable method of applying the composition to the skin in need thereof is used. For example, the composition may be applied directly from the package to the skin in need thereof by hand application to the skin in need thereof, or may be transferred from a substrate such as a wipe or mask, or a combination of two or more thereof. In other embodiments, the composition may be applied via a dropper, tube, roller, sprayer, and patch or added to a bath or otherwise to water to be applied to the skin, etc. The composition may be applied in a variety of ways/forms including, but not limited to, as leave-on creams, masks and/or essences.
The compositions, and formulations and products containing such compositions, may be prepared by methods well known to those of ordinary skill in the art. The composition may be based on conventional use and is substantially free of skin irritation.
Examples
The invention is further illustrated below in connection with specific examples. It is to be understood, however, that these examples are illustrative of the present invention and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The test methods in the following examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, are generally conducted under conventional conditions or under conditions recommended by the manufacturer. All percentages and parts are by weight unless otherwise indicated.
1. Experimental materials
1.1 preparation of skin moisturizing cream
Erythritol (Cargill Incorporated, trade name: zerose) TM Erythritolstandard granular);
Trehalose (trade name: trehalose, supplied from Baolin Biometrics Co., ltd.);
caprylic/capric triglyceride (supplied by basf (china) limited, trade name:318RC);
inulin lauryl carbamate (LABORATOIRES SETHIC INNOVATION supplied under the trade name INUTEC SL 1);
sodium carbomer (SUMITOMO SEIKA CHEMICALS CO., LTD. Supplied under the trade name AQUPEC MG N40R);
p-hydroxyacetophenone (trade name, supplied by deluxe essence perfume (south general) limited):H);
the test water is self-made deionized water in a laboratory.
Example 1: preparation of non-emulsified skin-care cream
1. Weighing the phase A raw materials: 89.25 parts by mass of water, 2 parts by mass of trehalose, 3 parts by mass of erythritol and 0.5 part by mass of p-hydroxyacetophenone; phase B raw materials: 2 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride; c phase raw materials: 3 parts by mass of glycerol and 0.25 part by mass of carbomer sodium.
Dissolving the phase A in a water bath at 80-85 ℃.
3.40-45 ℃ under the condition of homogenization, slowly adding the phase B into the phase A, and homogenizing for 5 minutes after all the phase B is added
After premixing of phase C, adding under stirring at 40-45 ℃, stirring at 500-600rpm for at least 10 min after all adding, and cooling to room temperature for standby.
Example 2: preparation of non-emulsified skin-care cream
1. Weighing the phase A raw materials: 89.05 parts by mass of water, 2 parts by mass of trehalose, 3 parts by mass of erythritol and 0.5 part by mass of p-hydroxyacetophenone; phase B raw materials: 2 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride; c phase raw materials: 3 parts by mass of glycerol and 0.45 part by mass of carbomer sodium.
Dissolving phase A in water bath at 80-85deg.C
3.40-45 ℃ under the condition of homogenization, slowly adding the phase B into the phase A, and homogenizing for 5 minutes after all the phase B is added
After premixing of phase C, adding under stirring at 40-45 ℃, stirring at 500-600rpm for at least 10 min after all adding, and cooling to room temperature for standby.
Example 3: preparation of non-emulsified skin-care cream
1. Weighing the phase A raw materials: 88.85 parts of water, 2 parts of trehalose, 3 parts of erythritol and 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone; phase B raw materials: 2 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride; c phase raw materials: 3 parts by mass of glycerol and 0.65 part by mass of carbomer sodium.
Dissolving the phase A in a water bath at 80-85 ℃.
3.40-45 ℃ under the condition of homogenization, slowly adding the phase B into the phase A, and homogenizing for 5 minutes after all the phase B is added.
After premixing of phase C, adding under stirring at 40-45 ℃, stirring at 500-600rpm for at least 10 min after all adding, and cooling to room temperature for standby.
Example 4: preparation of non-emulsified skin-care cream
1. Weighing the phase A raw materials: 88.5 parts of water, 2 parts of trehalose, 3 parts of erythritol and 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone; phase B raw materials: 2 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride; c phase raw materials: 3 parts of glycerol and 1 part of carbomer sodium.
Dissolving the phase A in a water bath at 80-85 ℃.
3.40-45 ℃ under the condition of homogenization, slowly adding the phase B into the phase A, and homogenizing for 5 minutes after all the phase B is added.
After premixing of phase C, adding under stirring at 40-45 ℃, stirring at 500-600rpm for at least 10 min after all adding, and cooling to room temperature for standby.
Comparative example: preparation of emulsified skin-moistening cream
1. Weighing the phase A raw materials: 78.65 parts by mass of water, 2 parts by mass of trehalose, 3 parts by mass of erythritol and 0.5 part by mass of p-hydroxyacetophenone; phase B raw materials: inulin lauryl carbamate 0.2 parts by mass and water 10 parts by mass; c phase raw materials: 2 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride; d phase raw materials: 3 parts by mass of glycerol and 0.65 part by mass of carbomer sodium.
Dissolving phase A and phase B in water bath at 80-85deg.C.
3.80-85 ℃ and slowly adding phase B into phase A, and homogenizing for 5 min after all the phase B is added.
Under the condition of homogenizing at 4.80-85 ℃, slowly adding the phase C, and homogenizing for 5 minutes after all the phase C is added.
After premixing the phase D, adding the mixture under stirring at 40-45 ℃, stirring at 500-600rpm for at least 10 minutes after all adding, and cooling to room temperature for standby.
Test example 1: pH and viscosity test
Samples prepared in examples 1-4 were placed in a incubator at 25℃for 24 hours and removed, the appropriate S93 rotor was selected, the speed was set at 10rpm, the viscosity of the samples was measured using a Brookfield viscometer, and the pH of the samples was measured using a Metler pH meter.
Table 1: viscosity, pH, apparent from examples 1-4
As can be seen from Table 1, the pH of the examples and comparative examples were both 5 to 6, the viscosity was increased with the increase in the amount of the thickener, the overall state of example 1 was fluid and not in the form of cream, the viscosity of the examples was substantially similar to that of the example 3, the viscosity of the examples was highest with the same amount of the thickener, the viscosity of the example 4 was white with the highest amount of the thickener, and the appearance of the emulsion type cream was translucent, the color of the non-emulsion type cream was mainly different due to the formation of the emulsion system, the texture of the examples and comparative examples was mousse texture and smooth texture of the general cream were different, and the odor of the examples was described as having the characteristic odor of the raw materials because no fragrance was added to the formulation.
Test example 2: skin feel test
Subject requirements: 10 volunteers with healthy skin are selected, and all volunteers should fill in informed consent before testing without limitation to men and women. The test subjects tested the non-emulsified skin cream and emulsified skin cream of the invention, scored the effects, and recorded the average score and score. The greater the score, the greater the scale of the range 1-5 points, and the test results are shown in the following table.
Table 2: skin-feel test scoring result table for skin cream with different formulations
Content of test | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Example 4 | Comparative example |
Appearance preference degree | 2 | 4.6 | 5 | 4.5 | 4.5 |
Moist feeling | 4 | 4.5 | 4.6 | 4.6 | 4.6 |
Chemical water | 2 | 4.5 | 4.8 | 4.8 | 4.4 |
Absorption degree | 2 | 4.3 | 4.7 | 3.5 | 4.2 |
Spreadability of | 4 | 4.7 | 4.8 | 3.2 | 4.5 |
As can be seen from the results of the skin feel score table, the score of example 1 was the lowest, mainly because example 1 was not in the form of cream but in the form of fluid emulsion, and the excessively light and thin texture also affected the performance of the properties such as moisturization feel, water repellency, etc., so the score was the lowest in all the test cases; example 4 has a lower score in terms of absorbency and spreadability, mainly because the thickener addition of example 4 is highest, because the thickener carbomer sodium is characterized by rapid water swelling to form balls, and rapidly releases water during spreading, thus having a sensation of spreading water, but too high an addition has an obvious mud rubbing phenomenon, and example 4 is fed back by multiple volunteers during use to influence scoring. Examples 2 and 3 have a higher score than the comparative examples, and laboratory 2 and 3 have a higher score than the comparative examples in terms of appearance preference, water-change, absorption and spreadability, mainly because the comparative examples as emulsified skin cream form an oil-in-water system due to the addition of the emulsifier, have emulsified particles, and release of oil during use requires a demulsification step, which does not release oil more rapidly than the non-emulsified skin cream, and thus have a difference in skin feel. The skin feel of the non-emulsified skin cream has unique characteristics, and can give a unique use experience to users.
Claims (10)
1. A non-emulsifying cream with a unique skin feel comprising:
a) A phase a comprising 1-5 wt% trehalose, 1-5 wt% erythritol, and water;
b) Phase B, the oil phase comprising 1-5 wt% caprylic/capric triglyceride;
c) Phase C comprising 1-5 wt% humectant and 0.1-1 wt% thickener, wherein the thickener is sodium carbomer.
2. The non-emulsifying cream of claim 1, wherein the a phase further comprises 0.1-1 wt% of p-hydroxyacetophenone.
3. The non-emulsifying cream of claim 1, wherein the C phase comprises 3% by weight glycerin.
4. The non-emulsifying cream of claim 1, wherein the a phase comprises 2% trehalose and 3% erythritol by weight.
5. The non-emulsifying cream of claim 1, wherein the B phase comprises 2% by weight caprylic/capric triglyceride.
6. The non-emulsifying cream of claim 1, wherein the C phase comprises 0.45-0.65% by weight sodium carbomer.
7. A method of preparing the non-emulsifying cream of any one of claims 1-6, comprising:
(1) Respectively weighing phase A, phase B and phase C in the non-emulsified cream;
(2) Mixing the phase A components to dissolve the phase A components;
(3) Adding phase B component, homogenizing;
(4) Adding phase C component, homogenizing to obtain non-emulsified cream.
8. The method of claim 7, wherein the step (2) is performed in a heated state of 80-85 ℃.
9. The method of claim 7, wherein the step (3) is performed at a temperature of 40-45 ℃ and homogenized for 5-10 minutes.
10. The method of claim 7, wherein the step (4) is performed at a temperature of 40-45 ℃ and homogenized for 10-30 minutes.
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