CN116869912A - 一种光损伤修护精华液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种光损伤修护精华液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN116869912A CN116869912A CN202310857049.8A CN202310857049A CN116869912A CN 116869912 A CN116869912 A CN 116869912A CN 202310857049 A CN202310857049 A CN 202310857049A CN 116869912 A CN116869912 A CN 116869912A
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- skin
- humectant
- photodamage
- sodium hyaluronate
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Abstract
本发明涉及A61K8/00技术领域，具体为一种光损伤修护精华液及其制备方法，精华液由皮肤调理剂、保湿剂、增稠剂、抗炎剂、抗氧化剂、润肤剂、增溶剂组成，通过优化产品配方，配合生产工艺，使提供的精华液具有优异的保湿、紧致、修护和舒缓功效，适用于敏感肌肤，能够对光损伤肌肤进行有效修复。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及A61K8/00技术领域，具体为一种光损伤修护精华液及其制备方法。
背景技术
皮肤表皮从外到内包括角质层、透明层、颗粒层、棘层、基底层，正常皮肤角质层含水量为20-35％，如果低于10％，皮肤屏障功能就会受损，而导致皮肤屏障功能受损的因素包括紫外光辐射、蓝光辐射、烟雾、年龄增长等，因此光损伤后的皮肤修护至关重要。如中国专利申请(公开号为CN111821235A)公开了一种光保护植物提取组合物及其应用，主要通过复配植物提取物，包括木苹果提取物、密蒙花提取物、红景天提取物和肉松蓉提取物来克服现有抗辐射制剂不能好地实现全光保护，无法满足敏感肌肤使用要求的缺陷，但是，该植物提取物组合物对于光损伤后的肌肤修护作用效果有待进一步提升。
发明内容
为了解决上述问题，本发明提供了一种光损伤修护精华液及其制备方法，通过优化产品配方，配合生产工艺，使提供的精华液具有优异的保湿、紧致、修护和舒缓功效，适用于敏感肌肤，能够对光损伤肌肤进行有效修复。
本发明一方面提供了一种光损伤修护精华液，由皮肤调理剂、保湿剂、增稠剂、抗炎剂、抗氧化剂、润肤剂、增溶剂组成。
作为一种优选的技术方案，按质量百分比计，所述光损伤修护精华液至少包括以下组分：第一皮肤调理剂70-73％、第一保湿剂5-8％、增稠剂0.1-0.3％、第二皮肤调理剂5-10％、第二保湿剂1-2％、抗炎剂0.01-0.2％、抗氧化剂0.01-0.12％、第三皮肤调理剂5-8％、第一增溶剂1-3％、第三保湿剂0.5-1％、润肤剂0.01-0.02％、第四皮肤调理剂0.0001-0.001％、第二增溶剂0.0001-0.005％。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述第一皮肤调理剂包括微生物发酵产物、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、泛醇。优选的，所述微生物发酵产物、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、泛醇的质量比为(68.5-71.5)：1：0.5。优选的，所述微生物发酵产物至少包括二裂酵母发酵产物滤液、乳酸杆菌发酵溶胞产物、酵母菌发酵产物滤液；
本发明提供的精华液为无水高浓缩精华液，尤其是采用包括二裂酵母发酵产物滤液、乳酸杆菌发酵溶胞产物、酵母菌发酵产物滤液的微生物发酵产物代替传统精华液产品中占比最大的水作为融合介质，有效对抗光损的同时实现对光损后肌肤的有效修护。具体的，二裂酵母发酵产物滤液具有很强的抗免疫抑制活性并能促进DNA修复，加强角质层的代谢，还能捕获自由基，可有效保护皮肤，不受紫外线引起的损伤，预防表皮及真皮的光老化；还可以抑制脂质的过氧化，具有美白、抗衰老及滋养皮肤的功能。乳酸杆菌发酵溶胞产物含有乳酸菌素等具有抑菌作用的多肽化合物，是天然的抑菌剂，对皮肤具有镇静作用，同时粘附于表皮细胞，对皮肤形成保护屏障，保护其免受外界环境的攻击；可加强角质层代谢，去除细胞自由基，抑制脂质的过氧化，激活机体修复性能，抑制细胞酪氨酸酶活性，具有修复美白和抗氧化的功能、防止皮肤水分流失和调节皮肤酸碱值、调节肌肤pH值、加强角质层代谢和去除死皮、改善色斑的作用。酵母菌发酵产物滤液富含天然保湿因子(NMF)，促使角质层能更有效保持水分，给予肌肤深度润泽，防止肌肤干燥，对皮肤具有非常出色的平衡油质、润白淡斑、抗衰、保湿及修复功能，可恢复和改善日晒后的红热现象，可以有效调节过剩的皮脂，令皮肤油水平衡，不泛油光；抑制酪氨酸酶活性，消除晦暗肤色；保持肌肤的正常弹性，使肌肤变得平顺、细致，抚平脸部滋生的小细纹。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述第一保湿剂包括丁二醇、甜菜碱水溶液、透明质酸钠；所述丁二醇、甜菜碱水溶液、透明质酸钠组合物的质量比为(4-6)：(1-3)：(0.01-0.12)。优选的，所述透明质酸钠组合物为水解透明质酸钠、乙酰化透明质酸钠和透明质酸钠的组合，其中水解透明质酸钠的分子量为5000-10000，乙酰化透明质酸钠的分子量＜100000，透明质酸钠的分子量为134-150万。
本发明提供的精华液，设计采用四种不同分子量的透明质酸钠，配合体系中丁二醇、甜菜碱以及第二、第三保湿剂，实现肌肤表皮深层补水、修护基底，作用于表皮层和真皮层之间实现多倍保水，且可修复受损的皮肤细胞，在肌肤补水、锁水、营养角质层，还可以在肌肤的角质层外面形成24小时长效保湿生物防护膜以减少水分流失，抵御PM2.5、紫外光对肌肤的损伤。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述增稠剂选自黄原胶、卡波姆、丙烯酸交联聚合物中的至少一种。优选的，所述增稠剂为卡波姆。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述第二皮肤调理剂包括植物调理剂组合物、甘油葡糖苷溶液、依克多因；所述植物调理剂组合物、甘油葡糖苷、依克多因的质量比为(6-8)：1：(0.05-0.15)。优选的，所述植物调理剂组合物为番红花(CROCUS SATIVUS)花提取物、海星枝管藻(CLADOSIPHON NOVAE-CALEDONIAE)提取物、埃及蓝睡莲(NYMPHAEACAERULEA)花提取物、天女木兰(MAGNOLIASIEBOLDII)提取物、卡瓦胡椒(PIPER METHYSTICUM)叶/根/茎提取物、中国灵芝(GANODERMA SINENSIS)提取物、芍药(PAEONIA ALBIFLORA)根提取物、药用黄精(POLYGONATUM OFFICINALE)根茎/根提取物、玄参(SCROPHULARIA NINGPOENSIS)提取物、积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)提取物中至少两种的组合。
优选的，所述植物调理剂组合物为番红花(CROCUS SATIVUS)花提取物、海星枝管藻(CLADOSIPHON NOVAE-CALEDONIAE)提取物、埃及蓝睡莲(NYMPHAEA CAERULEA)花提取物、天女木兰(MAGNOLIA SIEBOLDII)提取物、卡瓦胡椒(PIPER METHYSTICUM)叶/根/茎提取物、中国灵芝(GANODERMA SINENSIS)提取物、芍药(PAEONIA ALBIFLORA)根提取物、药用黄精(POLYGONATUM OFFICINALE)根茎/根提取物、玄参(SCROPHULARIA NINGPOENSIS)提取物、积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)提取物的组合。
基于本发明体系，引入上述植物调理剂组合物，配合甘油葡糖苷溶液和依克多因，使提供的精华液产品具有优异的前期抗光损伤作用及后期光损伤修护作用，且能够满足敏感肌肤人群的使用需求。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述第二保湿剂为聚季铵盐溶液和燕麦(AVENASATIVA)β-葡聚糖溶液的组合；所述聚季铵盐溶液和燕麦(AVENA SATIVA)β-葡聚糖溶液的质量比为(0.1-0.15)：(1-2)。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述抗炎剂为甘草酸二钾。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述抗氧化剂包括乙酰基六肽-8、1,2-己二醇、对羟基苯乙酮、丁二醇、水。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述第三皮肤调理剂至少包括马齿苋(PORTULACAOLERACEA)提取物、咖啡黄葵(ABELMOSCHUS ESCULENTUS)果提取物、对羟基苯乙酮、1,2-己二醇、异戊二醇、精氨酸。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述第三保湿剂为1,2-戊二醇。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述第一增溶剂为PEG/PPG-17/6共聚物。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述润肤剂为可可(THEOBROMA CACAO)籽提取物和糊精的组合物。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述第二增溶剂至少包括PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26和水。
作为一种优选的技术方案，所述第四皮肤调理剂为北非雪松(CEDRUS ATLANTICA)树皮油、地中海柏木(CUPRESSUS SEMPERVIRENS)叶/坚果/茎油、檀香(SANTALUM ALBUM)油、白兰(MICHELIA ALBA)花油的组合。
本发明的另一方面提供了一种光损伤修护精华液的制备工艺，至少包括以下步骤：
(1)将第一皮肤调理剂、第一保湿剂、增稠剂加入乳化锅中，开启搅拌，加热至75-78℃，保温搅拌8-15min，搅拌速度20-40r/min；
(2)降温到40-45℃，加入第二皮肤调理剂、第二保湿剂、抗炎剂、抗氧化剂，搅拌溶解完全，搅拌速度20-40r/min；
(3)继续加入第三皮肤调理剂、第一增溶剂、第三保湿剂，搅拌溶解完全，然后加入第四皮肤调理剂和第二增溶剂混合溶解后的溶液，搅拌速度20-40r/min，搅拌均匀后，降温到35-38℃取样检测出料即得。
本发明提供的高浓缩精华液产品，通过控制原料分批加入，在20-40r/min的搅拌速度下，尤其是将第四皮肤调理剂用第二增溶剂进行预先溶解后再加入进行精华液产品的制备，保证精华液产品的透明性和稳定性。
有益效果
1、本发明提供了一种光损伤修护精华液及其制备方法，通过优化产品配方，配合生产工艺，使提供的精华液具有优异的保湿、紧致、修护和舒缓功效，适用于敏感肌肤，能够对光损伤肌肤进行有效修复。
2、本发明提供的精华液为无水高浓缩精华液，尤其是采用包括二裂酵母发酵产物滤液、乳酸杆菌发酵溶胞产物、酵母菌发酵产物滤液的微生物发酵产物代替传统精华液产品中占比最大的水作为融合介质，有效对抗光损的同时实现对光损后肌肤的有效修护。
3、本发明提供的精华液，设计采用四种不同分子量的透明质酸钠，配合体系中丁二醇、甜菜碱以及第二、第三保湿剂，实现肌肤表皮深层补水、修护基底，作用于表皮层和真皮层之间实现多倍保水，且可修复受损的皮肤细胞，在肌肤补水、锁水、营养角质层，还可以在肌肤的角质层外面形成24小时长效保湿生物防护膜以减少水分流失，抵御PM2.5、紫外光对肌肤的损伤。
4、基于本发明体系，引入特定植物调理剂组合物，配合甘油葡糖苷溶液和依克多因，使提供的精华液产品具有优异的前期抗光损伤作用及后期光损伤修护作用，且能够满足敏感肌肤人群的使用需求。
5、本发明提供的高浓缩精华液产品，通过控制原料分批加入，在20-40r/min的搅拌速度下，尤其是将第四皮肤调理剂用第二增溶剂进行预先溶解后再加入进行精华液产品的制备，保证精华液产品的透明性和稳定性。
附图说明
图1为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测内容、检测目的、检测方法及检测结果。
图2为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测指标。
图3为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测环境、检测流程和统计方法。
图4为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告的检测结果中样本完成情况和使用试验产品反馈情况。
图5为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测结果-仪器检测结果及统计分析结果中皮肤角质层水分含量测试结果。
图6为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测结果-仪器检测结果及统计分析结果中皮肤皮肤经皮水分流失值测试结果。
图7为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测结果-仪器检测结果及统计分析结果中VISIA-CR皮肤红区面积占比测试结果。
图8为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测结果-仪器检测结果及统计分析结果中VISIA-CR皮肤红区a*值测试结果。
图9为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测结果-仪器检测结果及统计分析结果中皮肤弹性R2值测试结果。
图10为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测结果-仪器检测结果及统计分析结果中皮肤紧致度F4值测试结果。
图11为本发明实施例1产品功效测试报告中检测结果中主管评估结果。
图12为本发明实施例1产品功效测试检测结论。
具体实施方式
实施例1
本发明的实施例1一方面提供了一种光损伤修护精华液，配方参见表1。
表1、
本发明的实施例1另一方面提供了光损伤修护精华液的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将第一皮肤调理剂、第一保湿剂、增稠剂加入乳化锅中，开启搅拌，加热至78℃，保温搅拌10min，搅拌速度30r/min；
(2)降温到45℃，加入第二皮肤调理剂、第二保湿剂、抗炎剂、抗氧化剂，搅拌溶解完全，搅拌速度30r/min；
(3)继续加入第三皮肤调理剂、第一增溶剂、第三保湿剂，搅拌溶解完全，然后加入第四皮肤调理剂和第二增溶剂混合溶解后的溶液，搅拌速度30r/min，搅拌均匀后，降温到35℃取样检测出料即得。
性能测试
功效测试：对实施例1提供的精华液产品(黄褐色透明液体)进行功效测试，测试方法及结果参见图1-12所示测试报告(报告编号为SHA01-22100851-JC-02R2，报告中REBORNFEEL焕时修护精华液即为本申请实施例1提供的精华液产品)。
Claims (10)
1.一种光损伤修护精华液，其特征在于，由皮肤调理剂、保湿剂、增稠剂、抗炎剂、抗氧化剂、润肤剂、增溶剂组成。
2.根据权利要求1所述的光损伤修护精华液，其特征在于，按质量百分比计，所述光损伤修护精华液至少包括以下组分：第一皮肤调理剂70-73％、第一保湿剂5-8％、增稠剂0.1-0.3％、第二皮肤调理剂5-10％、第二保湿剂1-2％、抗炎剂0.01-0.2％、抗氧化剂0.01-0.12％、第三皮肤调理剂5-8％、第一增溶剂1-3％、第三保湿剂0.5-1％、润肤剂0.01-0.02％、第四皮肤调理剂0.0001-0.001％、第二增溶剂0.0001-0.005％。
3.根据权利要求2所述的光损伤修护精华液，其特征在于，所述第一皮肤调理剂包括微生物发酵产物、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、泛醇。
4.根据权利要求3所述的光损伤修护精华液，其特征在于，所述微生物发酵产物、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、泛醇的质量比为(68.5-71.5)：1：0.5。
5.根据权利要求4所述的光损伤修护精华液，其特征在于，所述微生物发酵产物至少包括二裂酵母发酵产物滤液、乳酸杆菌发酵溶胞产物、酵母菌发酵产物滤液。
6.根据权利要求5所述的光损伤修护精华液，其特征在于，所述第一保湿剂包括丁二醇、甜菜碱水溶液、透明质酸钠组合物；所述丁二醇、甜菜碱水溶液、透明质酸钠的质量比为(4-6)：(1-3)：(0.01-0.12)。
7.根据权利要求6所述的光损伤修护精华液，其特征在于，所述透明质酸钠组合物为水解透明质酸钠、乙酰化透明质酸钠和透明质酸钠的组合。
8.根据权利要求7所述的光损伤修护精华液，其特征在于，所述第二皮肤调理剂包括植物调理剂组合物、甘油葡糖苷溶液、依克多因；所述植物调理剂组合物、甘油葡糖苷、依克多因的质量比为(6-8)：1：(0.05-0.15)。
9.根据权利要求8所述的光损伤修护精华液的制备方法，其特征在于，所述第二保湿剂为聚季铵盐溶液和燕麦β-葡聚糖溶液的组合；所述聚季铵盐溶液和燕麦β-葡聚糖溶液的质量比为(0.1-0.15)：(1-2)。
10.一种根据权利要求1-9任一项所述的光损伤修护精华液的制备方法，其特征在于，至少包括以下步骤：
(1)将第一皮肤调理剂、第一保湿剂、增稠剂加入乳化锅中，开启搅拌，加热至75-78℃，保温搅拌8-15min，搅拌速度20-40r/min；
(2)降温到40-45℃，加入第二皮肤调理剂、第二保湿剂、抗炎剂、抗氧化剂，搅拌溶解完全，搅拌速度20-40r/min；
(3)继续加入第三皮肤调理剂、第一增溶剂、第三保湿剂、润肤剂，搅拌溶解完全，然后加入第四皮肤调理剂和第二增溶剂混合溶解后的溶液，搅拌速度20-40r/min，搅拌均匀后，降温到35-38℃取样检测出料即得。
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