CN116251048A - Composition for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid, preparation method and skin care product - Google Patents
Composition for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid, preparation method and skin care product Download PDFInfo
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- CN116251048A CN116251048A CN202310335191.6A CN202310335191A CN116251048A CN 116251048 A CN116251048 A CN 116251048A CN 202310335191 A CN202310335191 A CN 202310335191A CN 116251048 A CN116251048 A CN 116251048A
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- ascorbic acid
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- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 194
- 229960005070 ascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 title claims abstract description 95
- 235000010323 ascorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 94
- 239000011668 ascorbic acid Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 94
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 60
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title abstract description 11
- OWVLYQRCCIEOPF-QHTZZOMLSA-L zinc;(2s)-5-oxopyrrolidine-2-carboxylate Chemical compound [Zn+2].[O-]C(=O)[C@@H]1CCC(=O)N1.[O-]C(=O)[C@@H]1CCC(=O)N1 OWVLYQRCCIEOPF-QHTZZOMLSA-L 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 241001106462 Ulmus Species 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenoxyethanol Chemical compound OCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002023 wood Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 244000058281 Ulmus pumila Species 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000001547 Ulmus pumila Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- -1 pyrrolidone zinc carboxylate Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 15
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 abstract description 8
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 abstract description 8
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 abstract description 5
- 230000003064 anti-oxidating effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000001153 anti-wrinkle effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 25
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 18
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 16
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 8
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 8
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 6
- 235000013399 edible fruits Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000013112 stability test Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000012430 stability testing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 5
- XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Melanin Chemical compound O=C1C(=O)C(C2=CNC3=C(C(C(=O)C4=C32)=O)C)=C2C4=CNC2=C1C XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc Chemical compound [Zn] HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 4
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- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 102000008186 Collagen Human genes 0.000 description 3
- 108010035532 Collagen Proteins 0.000 description 3
- SSISHJJTAXXQAX-ZETCQYMHSA-N L-ergothioneine Chemical group C[N+](C)(C)[C@H](C([O-])=O)CC1=CNC(=S)N1 SSISHJJTAXXQAX-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 3
- JEVGKYBUANQAKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N victoria blue R Chemical compound [Cl-].C12=CC=CC=C2C(=[NH+]CC)C=CC1=C(C=1C=CC(=CC=1)N(C)C)C1=CC=C(N(C)C)C=C1 JEVGKYBUANQAKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 3
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- OPFTUNCRGUEPRZ-QLFBSQMISA-N (-)-beta-elemene Chemical compound CC(=C)[C@@H]1CC[C@@](C)(C=C)[C@H](C(C)=C)C1 OPFTUNCRGUEPRZ-QLFBSQMISA-N 0.000 description 2
- MEJYDZQQVZJMPP-ULAWRXDQSA-N (3s,3ar,6r,6ar)-3,6-dimethoxy-2,3,3a,5,6,6a-hexahydrofuro[3,2-b]furan Chemical compound CO[C@H]1CO[C@@H]2[C@H](OC)CO[C@@H]21 MEJYDZQQVZJMPP-ULAWRXDQSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ODHCTXKNWHHXJC-VKHMYHEASA-N 5-oxo-L-proline Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H]1CCC(=O)N1 ODHCTXKNWHHXJC-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-erythro-ascorbic acid Natural products OCC1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ATJXMQHAMYVHRX-CPCISQLKSA-N Ellagic acid Natural products OC1=C(O)[C@H]2OC(=O)c3cc(O)c(O)c4OC(=O)C(=C1)[C@H]2c34 ATJXMQHAMYVHRX-CPCISQLKSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920002079 Ellagic acid Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 241000233866 Fungi Species 0.000 description 2
- 206010061218 Inflammation Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 150000000996 L-ascorbic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 102000003425 Tyrosinase Human genes 0.000 description 2
- 108060008724 Tyrosinase Proteins 0.000 description 2
- 229930003268 Vitamin C Natural products 0.000 description 2
- MIJPAVRNWPDMOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N [2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-3-hydroxy-5-oxo-2h-furan-4-yl] dihydrogen phosphate Chemical class OCC(O)C1OC(=O)C(OP(O)(O)=O)=C1O MIJPAVRNWPDMOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000032683 aging Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000008367 deionised water Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910021641 deionized water Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229960002852 ellagic acid Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000004132 ellagic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000036541 health Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000011261 inert gas Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000004054 inflammatory process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000002502 liposome Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 2
- FAARLWTXUUQFSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N methylellagic acid Natural products O1C(=O)C2=CC(O)=C(O)C3=C2C2=C1C(OC)=C(O)C=C2C(=O)O3 FAARLWTXUUQFSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229940079889 pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 241000894007 species Species 0.000 description 2
- 230000000087 stabilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 241000894006 Bacteria Species 0.000 description 1
- JPVYNHNXODAKFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Cu2+ Chemical compound [Cu+2] JPVYNHNXODAKFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AHMIDUVKSGCHAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dopaquinone Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC(=O)C(=O)C=C1 AHMIDUVKSGCHAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AFSDNFLWKVMVRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ellagic acid Chemical compound OC1=C(O)C(OC2=O)=C3C4=C2C=C(O)C(O)=C4OC(=O)C3=C1 AFSDNFLWKVMVRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- 206010014970 Ephelides Diseases 0.000 description 1
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glutamic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002211 L-ascorbic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000000069 L-ascorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- AHMIDUVKSGCHAU-LURJTMIESA-N L-dopaquinone Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)[C@@H]([NH3+])CC1=CC(=O)C(=O)C=C1 AHMIDUVKSGCHAU-LURJTMIESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 208000003351 Melanosis Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 description 1
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229930040373 Paraformaldehyde Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 241000001522 Terminalia chebula Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000011517 Terminalia chebula Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241001473768 Ulmus rubra Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000003712 anti-aging effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000019606 astringent taste Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003115 biocidal effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005282 brightening Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007853 buffer solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 1
- 229910002091 carbon monoxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005056 compaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001431 copper ion Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000012258 culturing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000004207 dermis Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000002615 epidermis Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000003203 everyday effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000013305 food Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013922 glutamic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004220 glutamic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930182470 glycoside Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000002338 glycosides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000004128 high performance liquid chromatography Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000013115 immunohistochemical detection Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003364 immunohistochemistry Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012535 impurity Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002401 inhibitory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 230000001678 irradiating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000002596 lactones Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 159000000003 magnesium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000004060 metabolic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 244000005700 microbiome Species 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004806 packaging method and process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002866 paraformaldehyde Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000011056 performance test Methods 0.000 description 1
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000013641 positive control Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000002374 sebum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000028327 secretion Effects 0.000 description 1
- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000000638 stimulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012224 working solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003751 zinc Chemical class 0.000 description 1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A50/00—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
- Y02A50/30—Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
Abstract
The application provides a composition for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid, a preparation method and a skin care product, and relates to the technical field of skin care products. The composition for improving the stability and the efficacy of the ascorbic acid comprises the ascorbic acid and the modifier, wherein the mass ratio of the composition is 15 (0.5-3), and the stability of the ascorbic acid is improved by adding a small amount of the modifier, so that the ascorbic acid is prevented from being oxidized, and the composition can exert the antioxidation activity. Experiments prove that the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate can improve the stability and the color change of the ascorbic acid, the prepared composition can better improve the stability of the ascorbic acid and reduce the natural consumption speed of the ascorbic acid, and the composition also has more remarkable anti-wrinkle tightening effect compared with the independent ascorbic acid in the aspect of the application efficacy of cosmetics.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a composition for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid, a preparation method and a skin care product.
Background
Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a polyhydroxy compound with a structure similar to glucose, an alkene diol structure in the molecular structure, a lactone ring, and 2 chiral carbon atoms, wherein the enol hydroxyl is very easy to dissociate to release hydrogen ions, so that the vitamin C has acid property. In cosmetics, VC can slow down the synthesis process of melanin such as dopaquinone through the interaction with copper ions of tyrosinase active sites, so as to interfere with the generation of melanin, thereby achieving the effects of whitening and removing freckles. Compared with other whitening components, the VC has lower price and wider raw material sources, so that the VC is widely applied to whitening and anti-aging cosmetics. However, VC is unstable, is easily oxidized in air, and loses antioxidant activity.
Literature "polyol-in-oil system for stabilizing ascorbic acid" mentions five protection techniques: 1, no oxidation or inert gas protection is used in the production process; 2, adopting an anhydrous system, a water-in-oil system or reducing the water activity of the formula to prevent the water from contacting with water and oxygen so as to achieve the aim of stability; 3, using special reagents or antioxidation components to protect ascorbic acid, as reported in patent literature, styrene/maleic anhydride copolymer, dimethyl isosorbide and the like have obvious stabilizing effect; 4, obtaining derivatives of ascorbic acid, such as glycoside and phosphate of ascorbic acid, wherein the commonly used vitamin C phosphate derivatives in cosmetics mainly comprise magnesium salt, zinc salt and sodium salt of vitamin C phosphate; 5, protecting ascorbic acid by using liposome.
However, these existing methods for improving the stability of ascorbic acid still have problems, mainly as follows:
1. the production process is free from oxidation or protected by inert gas. The method solves the problems by improving the production process, and has high requirements on packaging and production equipment and process;
2. the formula adopts an anhydrous system, a water-in-oil system or reduces the water activity of the formula, and prevents the water from contacting with water and oxygen to achieve the aim of stability. The method has low water activity and cannot meet specific skin feel requirements;
3. the anti-oxidation component styrene/maleic anhydride copolymer, dimethyl isosorbide and the like reported in the patent literature are not in the used cosmetics raw materials catalogue, so that the raw material components are changed;
4. the method of group protection is not a method for fundamentally solving the stability and utilization rate of ascorbic acid, and the ascorbic acid derivative is expensive;
5. the liposome is utilized to protect the ascorbic acid, the raw materials are required to be customized, and the universality is not high.
Disclosure of Invention
The present application aims to provide a composition, a preparation method and a skin care product for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid, and aims to solve the problems of the prior art method for improving stability of ascorbic acid.
To achieve the above object, the present application provides a composition for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid, comprising: ascorbic acid and modifier in a mass ratio of 15 (0.5-3), for example, 15:0.5, or 15:1: or 15:1.25, or 15:1.5; or 15:2, or 15:3.
Preferably, the modifier is selected from: zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, ulmus pumila extract.
Wherein, the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate is the product of the combination of zinc element and natural moisturizing factor, "pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA for short)". PCA, a full-name pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is converted from glutamic acid, itself present in the stratum corneum, and is an important constituent of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) inherent in skin. NMF can combine with moisture in stratum corneum, keep skin soft and smooth, and maintain barrier health. The PCA zinc not only has the effects of resisting bacteria, inhibiting excessive sebum secretion and resisting inflammation of zinc element, but also has the functions of keeping moisture of horny layer and maintaining barrier health because of containing PCA. The PCA zinc is used as a raw material of cosmetics, is very safe, and has good antibacterial property and astringency.
Among them, elm green wood is Gao Dachang green tree native to Tropical Africa (Tropical Africa) Tropical thin-tree grassland (savanna), and it is the only western Africa (West Africa) species of elm green wood species. The extract of Ulmus pumila has two main active components: 3,3' -O-dimethyl ellagic acid and ellagic acid are powerful antioxidants, and can remarkably reduce the formation of active oxygen in cells, thereby preventing aging.
Preferably, the modifier is selected from zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate. Experiments prove that the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate can improve the stability and the color change of the ascorbic acid, the prepared composition can better improve the stability of the ascorbic acid and reduce the natural consumption speed of the ascorbic acid, and the composition also has more remarkable anti-wrinkle tightening effect compared with the independent ascorbic acid in the aspect of the application efficacy of cosmetics.
Preferably, the composition comprises, in mass percent:
15% of ascorbic acid;
0.5 to 3 percent of zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate,
for example, 0.5%, 1%, 1.25%, 1.5%, 2% or 3%;
the balance of water.
Experiments prove that the stability of the ascorbic acid can be improved when the mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate is 0.5-3%.
Preferably, the composition comprises, in mass percent:
15% of ascorbic acid;
1 to 1.5 percent of pyrrolidone zinc carboxylate;
the balance of water.
Experiments prove that the stability of the ascorbic acid can be improved when the mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate is 0.5-3%, and meanwhile, the content of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate has a great influence on the stability of the ascorbic acid, for example, when the mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate is lower than 0.5%, the composition cannot improve the stability of the ascorbic acid, but rather the consumption of the ascorbic acid is increased; when the mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate is more than 1.5%, the effect of improving the stability of the ascorbic acid is greatly reduced along with the increase of the content of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, so that the preferred mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate is 1-1.5%.
More preferably, the composition comprises, in mass percent:
15% of ascorbic acid;
1 to 1.25 percent of zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate;
the balance of water.
Preferably, the composition comprises, in mass percent:
15% of ascorbic acid;
the balance of water.
Experiments prove that the stability of the ascorbic acid can be improved to the greatest extent when the mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate is 1%, when the mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate is between 0.5 and 1%, the stability of the ascorbic acid is improved along with the improvement of the mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, and after the mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate exceeds 1%, the stability of the ascorbic acid is reduced along with the improvement of the mass percentage of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate.
Preferably, the modifier is selected from the group consisting of elm bark extract. Experiments prove that the elm green wood extract with smooth fruits can also improve the stability and the color change of the ascorbic acid, although the improvement effect is inferior to that of the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, the prepared composition can improve the stability of the ascorbic acid and reduce the natural consumption speed of the ascorbic acid.
Preferably, the composition comprises, in mass percent:
15% of ascorbic acid;
0.5% -2% of elm bark extract, for example, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5% or 2%;
the balance of water.
Preferably, the composition further comprises:
the phenoxyethanol may be 0.4% to 0.6%, for example, 0.4%, 0.45%, 0.5%, 0.55% or 0.6%.
The application also provides a preparation method of the composition for improving the stability and the efficacy of the ascorbic acid, which comprises the following steps:
adding ascorbic acid into water, stirring and dissolving to obtain phase A;
and adding the modifier into the phase A, stirring and dissolving to obtain the composition.
The application also provides a skin care product comprising the composition for improving the stability and efficacy of the ascorbic acid.
Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of this application include:
the composition for improving the stability and the efficacy of the ascorbic acid comprises the ascorbic acid and the modifier, wherein the mass ratio of the composition is 15 (0.5-3), and the stability of the ascorbic acid is improved by adding a small amount of the modifier, so that the ascorbic acid is prevented from being oxidized, and the oxidation resistance of the composition can be exerted. Experiments prove that the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate can improve the stability and the color change of the ascorbic acid, the prepared composition can better improve the stability of the ascorbic acid and reduce the natural consumption speed of the ascorbic acid, and the composition also has more remarkable anti-wrinkle tightening effect compared with the independent ascorbic acid in the aspect of the application efficacy of cosmetics.
Drawings
In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present application, the drawings that are needed in the embodiments will be briefly described below, it being understood that the following drawings only illustrate certain embodiments of the present application and therefore should not be considered as limiting the scope of the present application.
FIG. 1 is a graph of the results of stability testing of the sample of comparative example 1 of the present application;
FIG. 2 is a graph of the results of stability testing of the samples of examples 3-6 of the present application;
FIG. 3 is a graph of the results of stability testing of the samples of examples 7-10 of the present application;
FIG. 4 is a graph of the results of stability testing of the samples of examples 11-14 of the present application;
FIG. 5 is a graph of the results of stability testing of the samples of examples 15-18 of the present application;
FIG. 6 is a graph of 40℃stability test results for the samples of examples 1-3 and comparative example 1 of the present application;
FIG. 7 is a graph showing the results of the 48℃stability test for the samples of examples 1-3 and comparative example 1 of the present application;
FIG. 8 is a graph of Masson staining results of the compaction efficacy test of the present application;
fig. 9 is a graph of victoria blue staining results of the tightening efficacy test of the present application.
Detailed Description
The term as used herein:
"prepared from … …" is synonymous with "comprising". The terms "comprising," "including," "having," "containing," or any other variation thereof, as used herein, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a composition, step, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements is not necessarily limited to only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such composition, step, method, article, or apparatus.
The conjunction "consisting of … …" excludes any unspecified element, step or component. If used in a claim, such phrase will cause the claim to be closed, such that it does not include materials other than those described, except for conventional impurities associated therewith. When the phrase "consisting of … …" appears in a clause of the claim body, rather than immediately following the subject, it is limited to only the elements described in that clause; other elements are not excluded from the stated claims as a whole.
When an equivalent, concentration, or other value or parameter is expressed as a range, preferred range, or a range bounded by a list of upper preferable values and lower preferable values, this is to be understood as specifically disclosing all ranges formed from any pair of any upper range limit or preferred value and any lower range limit or preferred value, regardless of whether ranges are separately disclosed. For example, when ranges of "1 to 5" are disclosed, the described ranges should be construed to include ranges of "1 to 4", "1 to 3", "1 to 2 and 4 to 5", "1 to 3 and 5", and the like. When a numerical range is described herein, unless otherwise indicated, the range is intended to include its endpoints and all integers and fractions within the range.
In these examples, the parts and percentages are by mass unless otherwise indicated.
"parts by mass" means a basic unit of measurement showing the mass ratio of a plurality of components, and 1 part may be any unit mass, for example, 1g may be expressed, 2.689g may be expressed, and the like. If we say that the mass part of the a component is a part and the mass part of the B component is B part, the ratio a of the mass of the a component to the mass of the B component is represented as: b. alternatively, the mass of the A component is aK, and the mass of the B component is bK (K is an arbitrary number and represents a multiple factor). It is not misunderstood that the sum of the parts by mass of all the components is not limited to 100 parts, unlike the parts by mass.
"and/or" is used to indicate that one or both of the illustrated cases may occur, e.g., a and/or B include (a and B) and (a or B).
Embodiments of the present application will be described in detail below with reference to specific examples, but it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the following examples are only for illustration of the present application and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present application. The specific conditions are not noted in the examples and are carried out according to conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or apparatus used were conventional products commercially available without the manufacturer's attention.
Example 1
Example 1 provides a composition for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid, comprising, in mass percent: 15% of ascorbic acid, 0.25% of zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of water.
Example 1 also provides a method of preparing a composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid comprising the steps of:
1. adding ascorbic acid into deionized water, and stirring and dissolving to obtain a phase A;
2. the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate and phenoxyethanol were sequentially added to the phase a and stirred to dissolve completely, to obtain the composition for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid of example 1.
Other components of the compositions for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid of examples 2 to 18 are shown in table 1, and the methods for preparing the compositions for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid of examples 2 to 18 are performed with reference to the preparation steps of example 1, to prepare the compositions for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid of examples 2 to 18, respectively. Wherein Superox-CAF is extract of Terminalia chebula, purchased from Shanghai to Flexible Co., ltd; INTENCFY is ergothioneine, purchased from the Claim company; ellagi-C is a slippery elm green wood extract, purchased from australian chemical company, inc.
Among them, the fruit of Fabricius elegans is the fruit with highest VC content in the world, which is unique to the tropical region of North Australia, and corresponds to about 100 times of the content of one orange, and the local person is called Kakakadu plum. The extract of the falcate elemene fruit is extracted from the falcate elemene fruit, has the characteristics of antioxidation, antibiosis and the like, can resist inflammation, inhibit free radicals and prevent aging, can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and has a certain skin brightening effect.
Among them, ergothioneine was isolated from ergot in 1909 and is therefore named. It has now been found that they can be synthesized in most fungi, some fungi, streptococci, mycobacteria and other microorganisms, and can be absorbed and accumulated by plants and animals. Ergothioneine is an amino acid naturally existing in the nature, has super-strong antioxidant capacity, can eliminate broad-spectrum oxygen free radicals, has good photostability and thermal stability, does not participate in metabolism in a human body, and reaches half concentration in the human body for 30 days.
Table 1 mass percentages of each of the examples and comparative examples
Comparative example 1
Comparative example 1 provides an ascorbic acid preparation without an improver, comprising, in mass percent: 15% of ascorbic acid, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of water.
The preparation method of the ascorbic acid preparation without the modifier of comparative example 1 comprises the following steps:
1. adding ascorbic acid into deionized water, and stirring and dissolving to obtain a phase A;
2. and adding phenoxyethanol into the phase A, stirring and dissolving completely to obtain the ascorbic acid preparation of the comparative example 1.
Test examples
The compositions for improving stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid of examples 1 to 18 obtained above and the ascorbic acid formulation of comparative example 1 without the addition of the modifier were subjected to performance test to observe stability and efficacy thereof.
1. Stability investigation
The samples of examples 3 to 18 and comparative example 1 obtained above were subjected to stability examination at 48℃respectively, and the samples were tested for color and appearance change at week 10 respectively, and the stability test results are shown in FIGS. 1 to 5.
Wherein, fig. 1 is a picture of the sample of comparative example 1 in the color just configured and after 10 weeks of placement, the picture just configured on the left side, and the picture after 10 weeks of placement on the right side; fig. 2 is a picture of samples of examples 3-6 placed for 10 weeks, in sequence from left to right, examples 3-6; fig. 3 is a picture of the samples of examples 7-10 after 10 weeks of placement, in order from left to right, examples 7-10; fig. 4 is a picture of the samples of examples 11-14 after 10 weeks of placement, in order from left to right, examples 11-14; fig. 5 is a picture of the samples of examples 15-18 after 10 weeks of placement, in order from left to right, examples 15-18.
Examples 3-18 were tested for the 10 week stability of the four concentration gradients of the Superox-CAF, INTENCFY, ellagi-C, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate and VC compositions, respectively, in comparison to comparative example 1, and the results indicate that the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate or the composition of the ulmus pumila extract and ascorbic acid can improve the stability of the ascorbic acid, and that the color of examples 3-6 and examples 15-18 are lighter after the 10 week stability test relative to the color of comparative example 1 alone, and that the zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate: vc=1: 15 the degree of discoloration of the appearance is minimal.
The samples of examples 1 to 3 and the sample of comparative example 1 were each subjected to stability examination at 40℃and 48℃and the color and appearance changes of the samples were each tested at week 8. The stability test results are shown in fig. 6 to 7, wherein fig. 6 is a test result at 40 ℃, and fig. 6 is the color of the samples of example 1, comparative example 1, example 2, example 3 after being placed at 40 ℃ for 8 weeks in order from left to right; FIG. 7 shows the results of the test at 48℃and FIG. 7 shows the colors of samples of example 1, example 2, comparative example 1 and example 3 after 8 weeks at 48℃in this order from left to right; the results show that zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate is still: vc=1: 15 the degree of discoloration of the appearance is minimal.
2. Ascorbic acid content test
2.1 test methods
The ascorbic acid content detection is carried out by referring to a high performance liquid chromatography which is the first method in national standard GB 5009.86-2016 for determination of ascorbic acid in food.
2.2 test results
After examining the samples of examples 1 to 6 and comparative example 1 obtained above at 48℃for 8 weeks, the VC content of the compositions was measured, and the measurement results are shown in Table 2. From the test results in Table 2, the VC content of the compositions prepared by the invention in examples 2-6 is higher than that in comparative example 1 except example 1 after 8 weeks of high temperature 48 ℃ stability test, and the effect of example 3 is optimal; from this, the results of Table 2, which correspond to the stability test results, further demonstrate that the compositions of the present invention provide better stability to ascorbic acid over the indicated concentration range, reducing the rate of natural consumption.
TABLE 2 ascorbic acid content test results
3. Tightening efficacy test
3.1 test sample
The experimental and control group settings and test conditions of the test samples are shown in table 3, the test samples are of new configuration, there is little loss of vc, and the experiment is mainly used for the tightening efficacy test and is irrelevant to the stability data.
Table 3 test samples and test conditions
3.2 test methods
Based on the tightening efficacy test of ex vivo skin (UVR-exvivo), the test procedure was as follows:
1) Test scheme: and preparing a sample working solution.
2) Tissue treatment: immersing the freshly obtained skin tissue in 75% alcohol, washing for 30s, and washing three times by using sterile PBS buffer solution; after finishing, usingThe disposable sterile skin sampler cuts the skin tissue into small discs with diameter of 0.6cm, with epidermis facing up and dermis facing down, placing into a culture mold, transferring the culture mold into 6-well plates, adding 3.7mL of culture solution into each well, and adding 5% CO at 37deg.C 2 Culturing in incubator, and changing liquid every day.
3) Administration: after 2 days of isolated skin tissue culture, starting UVR irradiation and administration; UVR exposure dose was UVA (30J/cm) 2 ) And UVB (50 mJ/cm) 2 ) And continuously irradiating for 4 days, changing fresh culture solution after each irradiation, and carrying out administration treatment, wherein positive control (VC+VE) and a sample to be tested are carried out in a submerged administration mode. After 4 days of continuous irradiation, the isolated skin tissue was cultured for 3 days, during which time no UVR stimulation was performed and only sample administration was performed.
4) Tissue morphology, collagen fiber, elastic fiber detection: skin tissues after the end of the administration were subjected to a 4% paraformaldehyde fixation model, tissue embedding, slicing, H & E staining, masson staining and victoria blue staining, respectively, the slicing results were recovered, photographed using a microscope, and analyzed using Image-Pro Plus Image processing software.
5) Immunohistochemical detection: detection was performed according to the specific procedure of immunohistochemistry.
3.3 test results
The results of Masson dyeing and victoria blue dyeing are shown in fig. 8 and 9, respectively, and the improvement rate of collagen fiber and the improvement rate of elastic fiber are calculated from the pictures of fig. 8 and 9, and the test results are shown in table 4. From the test results of table 4, the composition prepared according to the present invention can enhance the effect of ascorbic acid tightening wrinkle resistance, and the improvement rate of elastic fiber and the improvement rate of collagen fiber are not much different at 3% and 1% of zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate addition, and may have reached improvement peaks at 1% addition.
TABLE 4 results of tightening efficacy test
Finally, it should be noted that: the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present application, and not for limiting the same; although the present application has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it should be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that: the technical scheme described in the foregoing embodiments can be modified or some or all of the technical features thereof can be replaced by equivalents; such modifications and substitutions do not depart from the spirit of the corresponding technical solutions from the scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present application.
Furthermore, those skilled in the art will appreciate that while some embodiments herein include some features but not others included in other embodiments, combinations of features of different embodiments are meant to be within the scope of the present application and form different embodiments. For example, in the claims below, any of the claimed embodiments may be used in any combination. The information disclosed in this background section is only for enhancement of understanding of the general background of the application and should not be taken as an acknowledgement or any form of suggestion that this information forms the prior art already known to a person skilled in the art.
Claims (10)
1. A composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid comprising: the weight ratio of the ascorbic acid to the modifier is 15 (0.5-3).
2. The composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid according to claim 1, wherein the modifier is selected from the group consisting of: zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, ulmus pumila extract.
3. The composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid according to claim 2, wherein the modifier is selected from zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate.
4. The composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid according to claim 3, wherein the composition comprises, in mass percent:
15% of ascorbic acid;
0.5 to 3 percent of zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate;
the balance of water.
5. The composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid according to claim 4, wherein the composition comprises, in mass percent:
15% of ascorbic acid;
1 to 1.5 percent of pyrrolidone zinc carboxylate;
the balance of water;
preferably, the composition comprises, in mass percent:
15% of ascorbic acid;
1 to 1.25 percent of zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate;
the balance of water.
6. The composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid according to claim 2, wherein the modifier is selected from the group consisting of elm glabrous greenwood extract.
7. The composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid according to claim 6, wherein the composition comprises, in mass percent:
15% of ascorbic acid;
0.5 to 2 percent of elm green wood extract;
the balance of water.
8. The composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid of any of claims 4-7, further comprising:
0.4 to 0.6 percent of phenoxyethanol.
9. The method of preparing a composition for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid according to any of claims 1 to 8, comprising:
adding ascorbic acid into water, stirring and dissolving to obtain phase A;
and adding the modifier into the phase A, stirring and dissolving to obtain the composition.
10. A skin care product comprising a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for improving the stability and efficacy of ascorbic acid.
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