CN115804737A - Moisturizing cream with lamellar liquid crystal structure, preparation method and application - Google Patents
Moisturizing cream with lamellar liquid crystal structure, preparation method and application Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a moisturizing cream with a layered liquid crystal structure, a preparation method and application thereof. The liquid crystal moisturizing cream comprises: 2 to 7 percent of oleophylic emulsifier, 0.1 to 1 percent of hydrophilic emulsifier, 5 to 20 percent of grease emollient, 5 to 15 percent of polyalcohol humectant, 0.1 to 0.8 percent of thickener and pure water. The liquid crystal moisturizing cream disclosed by the invention is well attached to the skin, a good closed system can be formed on the skin, the hydration and moisturizing capability of the skin can be enhanced, the skin state is effectively improved, and the effect of protecting and repairing the skin barrier is achieved. The skin care product adopting the liquid crystal moisturizing cream has mild, fresh and cool skin feeling without stimulation, good long-term stability of the system and complete lamellar liquid crystal structure, and has good application prospect in the field of cosmetics.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a moisturizing cream as a skin care product, a preparation method and application thereof, in particular to a moisturizing cream with a lamellar liquid crystal structure, a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, the human epidermis, has the function of a natural barrier, preventing evaporation of water, preventing the dissipation of natural moisturizing factors, and preventing the invasion of bacteria, viruses, and external contaminants. In this barrier function, grease plays an extremely important role. It forms a lipid layer in the stratum corneum, thus preventing water evaporation and allowing the stratum corneum to have a water retaining effect. When the lamellar structure is disordered and the keratinization process is abnormal, the skin is dry. One way to improve skin moisture loss and ensure skin efficacy is to use skin care products that can enhance the skin barrier function.
Liquid crystal type skin care products are new skin care products that have been receiving attention in recent years. The liquid crystal type skin care system can present a microsphere net structure or a lamellar liquid crystal structure under the observation of a microscope, lamellar liquid crystals formed by association of emulsifier molecules are generally of a multi-layer network structure and exist around single liquid drops in cream, so that the lamellar liquid crystals have a special structure of oil/liquid crystal/water (O/LC/W) and are very similar to the lipid structure of oil/stratum corneum/water of human skin, the structure simulating the human stratum corneum is equivalent to 'second layer skin' of the human body, and the liquid crystal type skin care system has good affinity and adaptability with the skin according to the principle of similarity and compatibility. When the water-in-oil type skin care cream is stably contained in the oil-in-water type skin care cream, the effects of efficiently moisturizing and slowly releasing active ingredients and the like can be provided for the cream, so that professional functional products and cosmeceutical skin care products can be helped to play a larger skin care effect, in addition, the layered liquid crystal structure contains a continuous structure of hydrophilic micro areas and lipophilic micro areas, so that 13-19% of bound water can be coated among liquid crystal structure layers, a hydrophobic continuous phase can be formed, liquid crystal layers are easy to slide, oil phase ingredients are coated inside the liquid crystal layers, the cream is easy to spread on the skin, non-sticky, mild, soft and smooth skin feeling can be brought to consumers, and meanwhile, the water-locking and moisture-keeping performances are excellent.
The special structure of the lamellar liquid crystal enables the lamellar liquid crystal to be applied to the cream, and the lamellar liquid crystal has obvious advantages: simultaneously combines the advantages of oil-in-water and water-in-oil cream, and can provide higher hydration than the oil-in-water cream and higher closure than the water-in-oil cream. Oil-in-water creams are generally considered to be highly hydrated, but the free water around the oil-in-water cream evaporates more rapidly when spread on the skin. The liquid crystal structure system contains 13 to 19 percent of bound water in the space between the liquid crystal structure layers except the water in the external phase, and the bound water is not easy to evaporate, thereby achieving the purpose of prolonging the hydration action. The lamellar liquid crystal is formed by parallel arrangement of double layers of surfactants, and the double layers are bent and closed to form liposome, the structure of which is similar to a cell membrane and can be used as a carrier carried by active substances. Due to the relationship of the liquid crystal structure performance, the active substance can be coated, the active substance is prevented from being degraded by light and heat, and the slow release of the active ingredient can be controlled. The slow release property is that the sensitive active ingredients in the cosmetics can be wrapped by the special structure in the liquid crystal, so that the substances are controlled to be in direct contact with the skin, the stimulation of the high-concentration active ingredients to the skin is reduced, and the slow release effect is achieved. In addition, the release speed of the active ingredients wrapped in the liquid crystal can be adjusted through the interaction of the liquid crystal and the stratum corneum, the transmission of the active ingredients dissolved in oil drops among interfaces is reduced, the active ingredients are released for a long time, and the active ingredients are fully absorbed and utilized by skin. The cream has good water-locking and water evaporation inhibiting effects. The existence of the multilayer liquid crystal structure can protect the effective components and improve the stability of the effective components, reduce the damage of certain irritant substances (such as preservatives, sunscreens and the like) to the skin and the like.
Chinese patent application 201710104662.7 discloses a liquid crystal transdermal absorption enhancer and its preparation and application in anti-aging cosmetics, wherein the enhancer comprises, by weight, 1-20 parts of phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 1-20 parts of arachidyl glucoside, 1-30 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 1-30 parts of cetearyl alcohol, 1-30 parts of shea butter, 1-50 parts of butanediol, and 50-90 parts of water. This application uses a higher fatty alcohol (cetostearyl alcohol) and has been refuted. Higher fatty alcohols have been reported to cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes, and individuals with sensitive skin develop urticaria with concomitant itching.
Chinese patent 201910553257.2 discloses a liquid crystal cream containing ceramide and a preparation method thereof. The liquid crystal emulsion is prepared by using a glycoside emulsifier and higher fatty alcohol as auxiliary emulsifiers (cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), and the preparation method of the liquid crystal emulsion is relatively special, and the emulsification process needs two emulsification processes at different temperatures. The liquid crystal structure formed by the single alkyl glucoside emulsifier has the characteristic of thermal instability, is easy to damage when contacting the skin, and cannot exert the advantages of a lamellar liquid crystal structure.
Chinese patent application 202011128353.1 discloses a spot removing and whitening composition, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-3 parts of butyl resorcinol and 0.5-3 parts of a liquid crystal emulsifier, wherein the liquid crystal emulsifier is at least one polyglycerol derivative of polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-2 stearate and polyglycerol-10 laurate. Some polyglycerol derivatives have irritation to skin and eyes, can cause acne, can generate irritation allergy when being used in large quantity, contain lauric acid or stearic acid groups with over-strong degreasing capability, are often slightly basic in the whole composition (weakening skin resistance), and easily cause over-thin skin cortex after long-term use, decline in defense capability and induction of infection.
Chinese patent application 202110524888.9 discloses an essence cream for repairing skin barrier function and a preparation method thereof, wherein an emulsification system comprising lecithin, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, caprylyl glycol and water is used for preparing liquid crystal, but the liquid crystal prepared by using lecithin is poor in structural stability, and a lamellar liquid crystal structure is extremely easy to damage or even disappear after being stored at a high temperature of 45 ℃ or a low temperature of-16 ℃ for one week to one month.
Chinese patent application 202210155833.X discloses a moisturizing and anti-wrinkle cream with a lamellar liquid crystal structure and a preparation method thereof, wherein natural liquid crystal type emulsifier and specific solid grease are used for preparing liquid crystal. Wherein the emulsifier is one or more selected from hydrogenated lecithin complex, PEG-20 phytosterol complex, and cetearyl glucoside complex. Although liquid crystals can be successfully prepared by singly using cetearyl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin or PEG-20 phytosterol, a liquid crystal structure formed by the alkyl glucoside emulsifier is thermally unstable, while a liquid crystal structure prepared by singly using the hydrogenated lecithin or the PEG-20 phytosterol is also poor in stability, and a lamellar liquid crystal structure is extremely easy to damage or even disappear after being stored at the high temperature of 45 ℃ or the low temperature of-16 ℃ for one week to one month.
Chinese patent application 202210325922.4 discloses a liquid crystal form oil-in-water matte composition, cream and a preparation method thereof, wherein a combination system of an emulsifier (polyglycerol-3 cetyl ether/sesame seed oil/malic acid) and a thickener (cetearyl alcohol) is used for preparing liquid crystal, the prepared lamellar liquid crystal structure is stable, but higher fatty alcohol is used, and the higher fatty alcohol/acid can enable the crystal lattice of the liquid crystal not to be easily cracked, so that the stability of the liquid crystal is improved.
The liquid crystal is a novel carrier in the field of cosmetics, has high biological adhesion, can simultaneously carry hydrophilic/lipophilic functional components, and reduces the damage of ultraviolet rays to skin.
Therefore, there is a need for a moisturizing cream having a lamellar liquid crystal structure, which does not use higher fatty alcohol and polyglycerol derivatives and the like, and has good thermal stability of the skin and high and low temperature stability.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a moisturizing cream with a lamellar liquid crystal structure, a preparation method and application thereof; the moisturizing cream does not use components such as higher fatty alcohol and polyglycerol derivatives, has good skin thermal stability and high-temperature and low-temperature stability, and has a lamellar liquid crystal structure.
In one aspect, for the above purpose of the present invention, the present invention provides a moisturizing cream with a lamellar liquid crystal structure, wherein the composition comprises the following components by weight:
wherein, the adopted oleophylic emulsifier is an oleophylic polyether emulsifier, the adopted hydrophilic emulsifier is a hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier, and the proportion of the oleophylic polyether emulsifier to the hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier is 4:1 to 10:1.
in the moisturizing cream containing the lamellar liquid crystal structure, the liquid crystal structure belongs to lamellar liquid crystal, and a large amount of bound water is contained between layers of the liquid crystal structure, so that the liquid crystal layers are easy to slide mutually, and the liquid crystal emulsion is easier to spread on the surface of the skin and perfectly attached to the skin.
Because the moisturizing cream does not contain components such as higher fatty alcohol and higher fatty acid, the moisturizing cream can avoid hidden troubles such as skin irritation and the like possibly caused by the components; because the moisturizing cream does not contain a liquid crystal structure formed by independently using the alkyl glucoside emulsifier, the liquid crystal structure cannot be damaged when the moisturizing cream is in contact with the skin; the moisturizing cream does not contain a liquid crystal structure prepared by independently using lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin or alkyl glucoside, so that the moisturizing cream has good stability at the high temperature of 45 ℃ or the low temperature of-16 ℃. The moisturizing cream containing the lamellar liquid crystal structure has excellent emulsification stability, good thermal stability, a large number of liquid crystals, a good lamellar liquid crystal structure, good skin fitting property, a good closed system capable of being formed on skin, a high moisturizing effect, capability of enhancing skin hydration, effectively improving skin state and achieving the effects of protecting and repairing skin barriers, and mild, fresh and non-irritating skin feel.
The inventors of the present application found that, in the moisturizing cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure of the present invention, if the ratio of the oleophilic polyether emulsifier and the hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier used is 4:1 to 10:1, the compound emulsifier can form a compact and ordered strong viscous membrane structure on a two-phase interface, can form a layered liquid crystal network structure similar to a human skin bilayer lipid system, has the characteristics and functions similar to a cell biomembrane, and has good affinity and adaptability to skin. The network structure enables the surface tension between the liquid crystal phase and the oil phase to be lower, enhances the strength of an interfacial film, prevents or delays the aggregation of liquid drops, and improves the stability of an emulsification system. In addition, the lamellar liquid crystal structure is fused with stratum corneum lipid, so that the composition and the structure of the stratum corneum are changed, the hydration performance of the product is prolonged, the moisturizing effect is enhanced, and the slow release of the effective components is realized.
In addition, the inventors of the present application have also found that when the ratio of the oleophilic polyether emulsifier to the hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier is less than 4: in case 1, although a lamellar liquid crystal structure may be formed, the viscosity of such a randomly formed lamellar liquid crystal is too low and the fluidity is too strong, so that it is difficult to stably maintain the lamellar liquid crystal structure. And when the ratio of the oleophilic polyether emulsifier to the hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier is higher than 10: in case 1, although a lamellar liquid crystal structure can be formed, the stability of the emulsion system is deteriorated, the skin-feel refreshing property is lowered, and the oily feel upon application is enhanced. Therefore, in the present invention, the ratio range of the oleophilic polyether emulsifier and the hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier is set to 4:1 to 10:1.
in the moisturizing cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure according to the present invention, the oleophilic polyether emulsifier used is preferably selected from, but not limited to, at least one of the following groups: ceteth-2, steareth-2, oleyl-2, palmitoeth-2, myristyl-2, PPG-3 myristyl ether.
In the moisturizing cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure of the present invention, the hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier used is preferably selected from at least one of the following group of materials, but not limited thereto: PEG-30 phytosterol and PEG-30 glycine max sterol.
In the moisturizing cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure of the present invention, the oil emollient should be selected in consideration of the weight ratio of high, medium, and low polar oils to non-polar oils. Experiments show that the greases with different polarities have certain influence on the structure and the quantity of the lamellar liquid crystal. The oil emollient can be at least one of vegetable oil, nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, synthetic ester oil, and methyl silicone oil.
Wherein, the vegetable oil and fat used can be at least one selected from but not limited to the following group: olive fruit oil, shea butter, coconut oil, sunflower seed oil, cocoa seed fat, jojoba seed oil, mango seed fat, wild soybean oil, camellia seed oil, and meadowfoam seed oil;
the non-polar hydrocarbon oil employed may be at least one selected from, but not limited to, the group consisting of: hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane, hydrogenated polydecene, liquid paraffin, petrolatum; the squalane is a lipid closest to sebum of a human body, has strong affinity, can be integrated with the sebum membrane of the human body, forms a natural barrier on the surface of the skin, improves cell metabolism, helps to repair damaged cells, and better protects the skin barrier. After the squalane is added into the liquid crystal system, the liquid crystal system can achieve the effect of nourishing the skin together with other effective components, enhance the hydration and moisture retention of the skin, effectively improve the skin state and achieve the effect of protecting and repairing the skin barrier;
the synthetic ester oil employed may be at least one member selected from, but not limited to, the group consisting of: phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate, isopropyl myristate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethylhexanoate), isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
the methyl silicone oil used may be at least one selected from, but not limited to, the following group of materials: polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, octyl methicone, methylpolysiloxane.
In the moisturizing cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure, the polyhydric alcohol can prevent the loss of water in the horny layer of the epidermis, has a small molecular weight, can absorb water in the air and achieves the effect of promoting the skin moisturizing, and the adopted polyhydric alcohol moisturizing agent is preferably selected from at least one of the following groups: glycerol, diglycerol, 1,3-propanediol, sorbitol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol.
In the moisturizing cream containing the lamellar liquid crystal structure, the high molecular polymer is added, so that the viscosity of a dispersion medium can be increased, the movement rate of emulsion droplets of a dispersion phase is reduced, and the stability of the emulsion is improved. The thickener can be at least one of organic natural water-soluble thickener, organic semi-synthetic water-soluble thickener, organic synthetic water-soluble thickener and micropowder thickener.
Wherein, the adopted organic natural water-soluble thickener can be at least one selected from but not limited to the following groups: xanthan gum, sclerotium rolfsii gum, carrageen crispa, carob gum, gellan gum, sodium alginate, acacia gum, tara gum, sphingomonas campestris fermentation product extract, pullulanase polysaccharide;
the organic semi-synthetic water-soluble thickener used may be at least one selected from, but not limited to, the following group: hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose;
the organic synthetic water soluble thickener used may be at least one selected from, but not limited to, the group consisting of: acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, sodium acrylate (ester) copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate;
the micropowder thickener used may be at least one selected from, but not limited to, the following group of materials: sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, silica, bentonite, magnesium aluminum silicate, distearyl dimethyl ammonium hectorite, sLalammonium hectorite and aluminum starch octenyl succinate.
The moisturizing cream containing the lamellar liquid crystal structure can further contain 0.1-1% of preservative. The preservative used is preferably selected from, but not limited to, at least one of the following groups: octyl glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, ethylhexyl glycerol, 1,2-hexanediol, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, glyceryl caprylate.
The moisturizing cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure of the invention can further contain 0.05-0.1% of a chelating agent. The chelating agent used is preferably selected from, but not limited to, at least one of the following groups: disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA.
Of course, the moisturizing cream containing the lamellar liquid crystal structure can further contain other functional components, such as an antioxidant, an ultraviolet-proof component, a skin conditioning component and the like, so as to form a skin care product.
In another aspect, to achieve the object of the present invention, the present invention also provides a method for preparing the above moisturizing cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure, the method comprising the steps of:
(1) Preparing an aqueous phase: adding a thickening agent and a polyalcohol humectant into water, and uniformly stirring and dispersing to form a water phase;
(2) Preparing an oil phase: mixing oleophilic polyether emulsifier, hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier and oil emollient, heating and stirring until completely and uniformly dissolved to form an oil phase;
(3) Shearing and emulsifying: pouring the oil phase obtained in the step (2) into the water phase obtained in the step (1), and homogenizing at 75-82 ℃ to obtain an emulsion;
(4) Liquid crystal cream: and (4) stirring the emulsion obtained in the step (3), cooling to below 45 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain the liquid crystal cream.
It can be seen that the process of the present invention for preparing a moisturising cream comprising a lamellar liquid crystalline structure is relatively simple and efficient, requiring only one temperature for emulsification, unlike some prior art processes which require emulsification at two or more different temperatures.
Preferably, in the above-described process of the present invention, both the aqueous phase in step (1) and the oil phase in step (2) are heated to 75-82 ℃ so that substantially no further heating, or only a small amount of heating, is required to pour the oil phase of step (2) into the aqueous phase of step (1) in step (3).
If the product formulation contains a chelating agent, then the chelating agent is preferably added to the aqueous phase in step (1); if preservatives are included in the product formulation, then the preservatives are preferably added to the reduced temperature emulsion in step (4).
In the method for preparing a moisturizing cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure according to the present invention, in the shearing emulsification of step (3), the speed may be adjusted to 6000 to 7500rpm; in the step (4) of the liquid crystal cream, the stirring speed can be adjusted to 300-600 rpm/min.
In order to achieve the above objects, the present invention provides a moisturizing cream or a liquid crystal cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure, which is used for preparing a skin care product, so as to fully utilize the advantages of the lamellar liquid crystal structure.
The skin care product prepared by the invention has a liquid crystal structure, can effectively control the slow release of active components, and can integrally improve the water replenishing and moisturizing capabilities of the skin care product.
The prior art liquid crystal cream is mostly prepared by using a liquid crystal emulsifier and a co-emulsifier (higher fatty alcohol/acid). Among them, liquid crystal emulsifiers which are widely used include glucosides, lecithins, olive esters, etc., and have attracted much attention due to their excellent skin feel and skin affinity, but when used alone, these liquid crystal emulsifiers have low emulsifying power, and therefore, it is often necessary to use higher fatty alcohols/acids to promote the formation of a double emulsion structure in the system, thereby stabilizing the liquid crystal system. In addition, the liquid crystal structure generated by the liquid crystal emulsifier is greatly influenced by the formula and the preparation process, and the condition for forming the liquid crystal becomes more uncontrollable. Meanwhile, researches have found that a liquid crystal structure formed by the alkyl glucoside emulsifier is easy to damage when contacting the skin due to thermal instability, so that the advantage of a lamellar liquid crystal structure cannot be exerted. The inventors of the present application found that the use of an oleophilic polyether emulsifier and a hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier can effectively overcome the disadvantages of such liquid crystal emulsifiers: (1) The compound emulsifier pair has stronger emulsifying capacity, can emulsify high-content grease with different polarities, and can form a stable lamellar liquid crystal structure without using auxiliary emulsifiers such as higher fatty alcohol/acid and the like to strengthen liquid crystal lattices; (2) The forming condition of the liquid crystal is controllable, and the influence of the formula and the preparation process on the lamellar liquid crystal structure is small; (3) The formed lamellar liquid crystal has a regular and uniform structure, high thermal stability and mild, fresh and non-irritating skin feel.
The liquid crystal cream disclosed by the invention is good in skin attachment, a good closed system can be formed on the skin, the hydration and moisturizing capabilities of the skin are enhanced, the skin state is effectively improved, and the effect of protecting and repairing the skin barrier is achieved. The liquid crystal skin care product disclosed by the invention is mild, fresh and cool in skin feel, free of irritation, good in long-term stability of a system, complete in lamellar liquid crystal structure and good in application prospect in the field of cosmetics.
The present invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments, which are illustrative of certain specific embodiments of the present invention and are not to be construed as limiting the invention. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made without departing from the principles of the invention, and it is also considered to be within the scope of the invention.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a polarizing microscope photograph of the liquid crystal cream of example 1 as prepared;
FIG. 2 is a polarizing microscope photograph of the liquid crystal cream as prepared in example 2;
FIG. 3 is a polarizing microscope photograph of the liquid crystal cream of example 3 as prepared;
FIG. 4 is a polarization microscope photograph showing the liquid crystal cream of example 1 of the present invention after being left at room temperature, a low temperature of-16 ℃ and a high temperature of 45 ℃ for three months, respectively.
Detailed Description
Preparation of example 1
The moisturizing cream containing a lamellar liquid crystal structure (liquid crystal cream) of example 1 was prepared by the following preparation process:
(1) Weighing the raw material, namely the water phase, in the weight part of the phase A, heating the raw material, namely the water phase, in a constant-temperature water bath kettle at the temperature of 80 ℃, preserving heat for 10 min, and homogenizing the water phase at the homogenizing speed of 6500-7500rpm for 2-3 min.
(2) Weighing the raw material, namely the oil phase, in parts by weight of the phase B, and heating the raw material, namely the oil phase, in a constant-temperature water bath kettle at 80 ℃ until the oil phase is completely dissolved until no particles exist.
(3) Pouring the phase B into the phase A under the condition of a constant-temperature water bath kettle at the temperature of 80 ℃, uniformly stirring, and then opening the mixture for homogenization for about 2-4 minutes at the speed of 6500-7500rpm to obtain the emulsion.
(4) Taking the homogenized emulsion out of the constant-temperature water bath kettle, and stirring and cooling at the external temperature of 28 ℃ and the rotating speed of 400-500 rpm/min. Adding phase C when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 deg.C, and stirring.
The product obtained in example 1 is white viscous emulsion with bright appearance, mild, fresh and non-greasy skin feel and excellent moisturizing and caring effects on skin, and a polarized light micrograph of a sample shows that liquid crystals formed in the system are complete in structure, uniform in size and high in liquid crystal particle density (shown in figure 1). The liquid crystal emulsion is placed at 45 ℃ for a week, the water content of the sample is measured every day, the water content of the sample tends to be stable and does not change after the sample is placed for a day, and the liquid crystal is connected with the piece, so that the liquid crystal emulsion can be judged to have good water locking capacity, the skin feel does not feel obvious change when the liquid crystal emulsion is used, and the skin feel is fresh and not greasy.
The raw material formulation used in example 1 was as follows:
preparation of example 2
The liquid crystal cream of example 2 was prepared by substantially the same preparation method as that of example 1.
The formulation of the raw materials used in example 2 was as follows:
the product obtained in example 2 is white viscous cream with bright appearance, mild, fresh and non-greasy skin feel and excellent moisturizing and caring effects on skin, and a polarized light micrograph of a sample shows that a liquid crystal structure formed in the system is complete, the size is uniform, and the density of liquid crystal particles is high (figure 2). The liquid crystal emulsion is placed at 45 ℃ for a week, the water content of the sample is measured every day, the water content of the sample tends to be stable and does not change after the sample is placed for a day, and the liquid crystal is connected with the piece, so that the liquid crystal emulsion can be judged to have good water locking capacity, the skin feel does not feel obvious change when the liquid crystal emulsion is used, and the skin feel is fresh and not greasy.
Preparation of example 3
The liquid crystal cream of example 3 was prepared by substantially the same preparation method as example 1.
The raw material formulation used in example 3 was as follows:
the product obtained in example 3 is white viscous cream with bright appearance, mild, fresh and non-greasy skin feel and excellent moisturizing and caring effects on skin, and a polarized light micrograph of a sample shows that a liquid crystal structure formed in the system is complete, the size is uniform, and the density of liquid crystal particles is high (figure 3). The liquid crystal emulsion is placed at 45 ℃ for a week, the water content of the sample is measured every day, the water content of the sample tends to be stable and does not change after the sample is placed for a day, and the liquid crystal is connected with the piece, so that the liquid crystal emulsion can be judged to have good water locking capacity, the skin feel does not feel obvious change when the liquid crystal emulsion is used, and the skin feel is fresh and not greasy.
Preparation of comparative example 1
The general cream of this comparative example was prepared using substantially the same preparation method as example 1. The formulation of the raw materials used in this comparative example 1 was as follows:
the product obtained in comparative example 1 is a white viscous emulsion with bright appearance, is oily when being smeared on the skin, and cannot observe liquid crystal under the polarized light of a microscope.
Preparation of comparative example 2
The liquid crystal cream of this comparative example was prepared by substantially the same preparation method as in example 1. The formula of the raw materials adopted in comparative example 2 is as follows:
the product obtained in comparative example 2 is white viscous cream with bright appearance, the skin feel is moist when the product is applied, the product has slightly astringent feel after being dried, and liquid crystal can be observed under microscope polarized light. The liquid crystal structure formed in the system is complete, the size is uniform, the density of liquid crystal particles is medium, and the prepared liquid crystal cream is respectively placed at room temperature, -16 ℃ and 45 ℃ for stability evaluation for three months.
Preparation of comparative example 3
The liquid crystal cream of this comparative example was prepared by substantially the same preparation method as in example 1. The formula of the raw materials adopted in the comparative example 3 is as follows:
the product obtained in comparative example 3 is a white viscous emulsion with bright appearance, is moist and refreshing when being applied to the skin, and can observe liquid crystal under the polarized light of a microscope. The liquid crystal structure formed in the system is complete, the size is small, the density of liquid crystal particles is medium, and the prepared liquid crystal cream is respectively placed at room temperature, -16 ℃ and 45 ℃ for three-month stability evaluation.
Preparation of comparative example 4
The liquid crystal cream of this comparative example was prepared by substantially the same preparation method as in example 1. The formulation of the raw materials used in this comparative example 4 is as follows:
the product obtained in comparative example 4 is white viscous emulsion with bright appearance, the skin feel is moist when the product is applied, the product has slight sticky feel after being dried, and liquid crystal can be observed under microscope polarized light. The liquid crystal structure formed in the system is complete, the size is small, the density of liquid crystal particles is medium, and the prepared liquid crystal cream is respectively placed at room temperature, -16 ℃ and 45 ℃ for stability evaluation for three months.
Preparation of comparative example 5
The liquid crystal cream of this comparative example was prepared by substantially the same preparation method as in example 1.
The formulation of the raw materials used in this comparative example 5 was as follows:
the product obtained in comparative example 5 was a white viscous cream with a bright appearance, was moist and thin when applied to the skin, and liquid crystals were observed under polarized light from a microscope. The liquid crystal structure formed in the system is complete, the size is large, the density of liquid crystal particles is large, and the prepared liquid crystal cream is respectively placed at room temperature, -16 ℃ and 45 ℃ for three-month stability evaluation.
Preparation of comparative example 6
The liquid crystal cream of this comparative example was prepared by substantially the same preparation method as in example 1.
The formulation of the raw materials used in this comparative example 6 is as follows:
the product obtained in comparative example 6 is a white viscous emulsion with bright appearance, the skin feel is oily when the product is applied, and the existence of liquid crystal cannot be observed under the polarized light of a microscope.
Test experiments
1. And (3) testing the stability:
the liquid crystal creams prepared in example 1, example 2 and example 3 were subjected to three-month stability evaluation at room temperature, -16 ℃ and 45 ℃ respectively, and the results are summarized in Table 1. The liquid crystal creams prepared in comparative example 2, comparative example 3, comparative example 4 and comparative example 5 were subjected to one-month stability evaluation at room temperature, -16 ℃ and 45 ℃ respectively, and the experimental results are summarized in table 2.
Table 1 stability test report of liquid crystal cream of each example
Compared with the liquid crystal structure just prepared, the moisturizing cream with the lamellar liquid crystal structure has no obvious change in the structure and the quantity of liquid crystals after being placed at room temperature, 45 ℃ and-16 ℃ for three months.
Table 2 stability test report of liquid crystal cream in each comparative example
As can be seen from the above table, although the use of a liquid crystal emulsifier (alkylglucosides, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin) alone or the use of an oleophilic polyether emulsifier alone can produce a cream with a lamellar liquid crystal structure, the stability is poor, and a higher fatty alcohol/acid may be required to stabilize the liquid crystal lattice, thereby enhancing the stability of the lamellar liquid crystal structure.
2. Protection of skin barrier, moisture retention performance test:
the moisture retention performance is detected by a skin moisture content tester (Cormeter CM825, germany CK), the MMV value index of the skin moisture content is measured, and the moisture content of the horny layer of the human skin and the MMV value of the skin moisture content are measured by a capacitance method: the MMV value characterizes skin moisture, the greater the MMV value, the higher the stratum corneum moisture content.
The protective skin barrier is detected by a percutaneous water loss tester (Tewameter TM300: german CK), the percutaneous water loss TEWL value index is measured, the water vapor pressure gradient of different points formed by the water loss of the horny layer of the epidermis is measured by two groups of sensors with different temperatures and humidities, the water content evaporated by the epidermis is measured, the TEWL value is used for evaluating the skin barrier function, the important parameter for inspecting the skin repair after the product is used, the smaller the value is, the better the skin barrier is, and the better the repair is.
The specific detection method comprises the following steps: the inner arm skin was cleaned using the cleaning product, and the test area was marked on the inner arm by the lab during sitting still at around 20 min. And after the test preparation process is finished, acquiring initial skin value data for the first time. And after the collection of the skin initial value data is finished, smearing the test sample. The tester uses a pipette to quantitatively sample (0.02 g) in the corresponding area and smear the sample in the same direction, data are collected 2 and 4 times after smearing the sample, the measurement is carried out 3 times at different positions in each area, and the measurement results are expressed as an average value of 3 times.
TABLE 3MMV value results
| Serial number | 0h | 2h | 4h | Difference value of 0h |
| Example 1 | 30.15 | 63.51 | 55.29 | 25.14 |
| Example 2 | 31.58 | 62.77 | 51.74 | 20.16 |
| Example 3 | 29.16 | 59.71 | 52.66 | 23.50 |
| Comparative example 1 | 30.27 | 46.18 | 41.22 | 10.95 |
TABLE 4TEWL value results
| Serial number | 0h | 2h | 4h | Difference from 0h |
| Example 1 | 10.03 | 7.03 | 7.56 | -2.47 |
| Example 2 | 10.08 | 7.56 | 8.56 | -1.52 |
| Example 3 | 9.87 | 7.15 | 8.01 | -1.86 |
| Comparative example 1 | 10.15 | 9.86 | 10.36 | 0.21 |
The skin moisture content can be evaluated to obtain the moisturizing effect, the larger the numerical value is, the better the moisturizing effect is, and the moisturizing effect of the embodiment is obviously better than that of the comparative example according to the change of the skin moisture content; the transdermal water loss value can evaluate the degree of skin repair, the smaller the value, the better the skin barrier, the better the repair, the repair effect of the examples is obviously better than that of the comparative examples, which is because of the formation of the lamellar liquid crystal structure, so that the excellent moisturizing performance is exerted. The moisturizing cream containing the lamellar liquid crystal structure has strong moisturizing capability, has obvious moisturizing effect in a long time, can effectively regulate the barrier function of the skin cuticle, and can prolong the hydration and closure of the cuticle.
Claims (10)
1. A moisturizing cream containing a layered liquid crystal structure is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight:
wherein, the oleophylic emulsifier is oleophylic polyether emulsifier, the hydrophilic emulsifier is hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier, and the proportion of oleophylic polyether emulsifier and hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier is 4:1 to 10:1.
2. the moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the oleophilic polyether emulsifier is at least one selected from the group consisting of: ceteth-2, steareth-2, oleyl-2, palmitoeth-2, myristyl-2, and PPG-3 myristyl ether.
3. The moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier is at least one selected from the group consisting of: PEG-30 phytosterol, and PEG-30 soyasterol.
4. The moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the oil emollient is at least one selected from the group consisting of: vegetable oil and fat, nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, synthetic ester oil, and methyl silicone oil.
5. The moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 4, wherein the vegetable oil is at least one selected from the group consisting of: olive fruit oil, shea butter, coconut oil, sunflower seed oil, cocoa butter, jojoba seed oil, mango seed butter, wild soybean oil, camellia seed oil, and meadowfoam seed oil;
the non-polar hydrocarbon oil is at least one selected from the following group: hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane, hydrogenated polydecene, liquid paraffin, and petrolatum;
the synthetic ester oil is at least one selected from the following group: phytosterols/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate, isopropyl myristate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethylhexanoate), isononyl isononanoate, and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
the methyl silicone oil is at least one selected from the following group: polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyl trimethicones, cyclopentadimethicones, octyl methicones, and methylpolysiloxanes.
6. The moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the thickener is at least one selected from the group consisting of: organic natural water-soluble thickening agent, organic semi-synthetic water-soluble thickening agent, organic synthetic water-soluble thickening agent and micropowder thickening agent.
7. The moisturizing cream of claim 6, wherein the organic natural water-soluble thickener is at least one selected from the group consisting of: xanthan gum, sclerotium rolfsii gum, carrageen crispa, carob gum, gellan gum, sodium alginate, gum arabic, tara gum, sphingomonas campestris fermentation product extract, and pullulanase;
the organic semi-synthetic water-soluble thickener is at least one selected from the following group: hydroxyethyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.
8. The moisturizing cream of claim 6, wherein the organic synthetic water-soluble thickener is at least one selected from the group consisting of: acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/behenyl polyether-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, sodium acrylate copolymer, and ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate;
the micropowder thickener is at least one selected from the following group: sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, silica, bentonite, magnesium aluminum silicate, disteardimonium hectorite, selea chloride hectorite, and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate.
9. A method of preparing a moisturizing cream as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the method comprises the steps of:
(1) Preparing an aqueous phase: adding a thickening agent and a polyalcohol humectant into water, and uniformly stirring and dispersing to form a water phase;
(2) Preparing an oil phase: mixing oleophilic polyether emulsifier, hydrophilic polyoxyethylene emulsifier and oil emollient, heating and stirring until completely and uniformly dissolved to form an oil phase;
(3) Shearing and emulsifying: pouring the oil phase obtained in the step (2) into the water phase obtained in the step (1), and homogenizing at 75-82 ℃ to obtain an emulsion;
(4) Liquid crystal cream: and (4) stirring the emulsion obtained in the step (3), cooling to below 45 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain the liquid crystal cream.
10. Use of the moisturizing cream according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for the preparation of a skin care product.
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| CN117618578A (en) * | 2023-11-24 | 2024-03-01 | 广州梵之容化妆品有限公司 | High-pressure-resistant homogeneous thickener and application thereof |
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| CN107233218A (en) * | 2017-06-20 | 2017-10-10 | 广东盛美化妆品有限公司 | A kind of layered liquid crystal emollient cream and preparation method thereof |
| CN109394585A (en) * | 2018-12-10 | 2019-03-01 | 无限极（中国）有限公司 | A kind of anti-oxidant and moisturizing liquid-crystal composition and its preparation method and application |
| CN110812256A (en) * | 2019-10-10 | 2020-02-21 | 澳宝化妆品（惠州）有限公司 | Skin care composition containing borage seed extract |
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| CN106974848A (en) * | 2017-04-19 | 2017-07-25 | 中国科学院上海高等研究院 | A kind of Fischer-Tropsch wax liquid Crystal Cosmetics and preparation method thereof |
| CN107233218A (en) * | 2017-06-20 | 2017-10-10 | 广东盛美化妆品有限公司 | A kind of layered liquid crystal emollient cream and preparation method thereof |
| CN109394585A (en) * | 2018-12-10 | 2019-03-01 | 无限极（中国）有限公司 | A kind of anti-oxidant and moisturizing liquid-crystal composition and its preparation method and application |
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| CN117618578A (en) * | 2023-11-24 | 2024-03-01 | 广州梵之容化妆品有限公司 | High-pressure-resistant homogeneous thickener and application thereof |
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