CN115282102A - 一种大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及日用化妆品技术领域，提供了一种大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华，其包括以下组分：异十二烷、大西洋胄胸鲷油、椰油醇‑辛酸酯/癸酸酯、异壬酸异壬酯、霍霍巴籽油、角鲨烷、生育酚乙酸酯、橄榄油、葡萄籽油、印加果油、毛瑞榈果油、红没药醇、姜根提取物。此款精华采用冷配工艺做成，其含有大量的不饱和脂肪酸，能够达到抗衰紧致的护肤功效，从而解决常见皮肤问题。其与普通的精华有很大的区别，是一种全油成分的精华，具有精华清爽的使用感，特别是满足了消费者对全油产品用完即干的要求。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及日用化妆品技术领域，更具体地说，它涉及一种大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着年龄的增加，皮肤的形态会发生变化，皮肤的机能也会降低。在表皮细胞中，基底细胞增殖能力降低，代谢更新也会变慢；在真皮层细胞中，成纤细胞的增殖速度降低、细胞外基质的合成能力也降低，导致促进胶原合成的细胞信号调节激酶的活性也降低；与之相反，由于含有JNK的应激激活蛋白激酶的活性的抗进会导致MMP-1,MMP-2,MMP＝9表达增加，隐藏胶原减少。
人们对抗衰老紧致产品的兴趣，随着经济的发展、生活水平的提高，日渐浓厚。在各种社交场合，人们很注重自己皮肤是否衰老。据某研究公司的调查结果，80％的亚洲地区消费者对抗衰紧致的产品感兴趣，于此同时，中国的抗衰紧致产品备案数量呈增长趋势，尤其是精华剂型的抗衰紧致产品特别受欢迎。
“以油养肤”的概念开始慢慢流行起来，“以油养肤”不同于单一的补充水分却被拒之门外的吸收现象，利用皮肤细胞的亲油性，将有效成分渗透到细胞间脂质，这样才能极大程度上的在表皮层形成保护膜以及修复我们的皮肤屏障，有效渗透有效成分，但是油的油腻肤感并不是消费者的意向选择。
市面上缺失了一款全油成分的精华，既有油的渗透功效，又有精华使用体验。因此，提供一种全油的清爽抗衰紧致功效的精华是相关领域技术人员急需解决的问题。
发明内容
针对现有技术存在的不足，本发明的目的是为了提供一种大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华，此款精华采用冷配工艺做成，其含有大量的不饱和脂肪酸，能够达到抗衰紧致的护肤功效，从而解决常见皮肤问题。其与普通的精华有很大的区别，是一种全油成分的精华，具有精华清爽的使用感，特别是满足了消费者对全油产品用完即干的要求。
为实现上述目的，本发明采用如下技术方案：
一种大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华，包括以下组分：异十二烷、大西洋胄胸鲷油、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯、异壬酸异壬酯、霍霍巴籽油、角鲨烷、生育酚乙酸酯、橄榄油、葡萄籽油、印加果油、毛瑞榈果油、红没药醇、姜根提取物。
优选的，所述大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华，包括以下质量百分比组分：
优选的，所述大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华，包括以下质量百分比组分：
本发明还提供了所述大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华的制备方法，其制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)按比例称量各组分；
(2)将除异十二烷外的其余组分搅拌混合均匀，得预混合物；
(3)将异十二烷加入到所述预混合物中，搅拌混合均匀，即得所述大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华。
优选的，所述的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华的制备方法，步骤(2)及步骤(3)中的混合温度均为25±2℃。
优选的，所述的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华的制备方法，步骤(2)及步骤(3)中的搅拌速度均为500r/min。
本发明中的异十二烷在化妆品中的主要作用是柔润剂，溶剂，属于氢碳类化合物，作为溶剂，可使产品质地清爽，容易涂抹，并能减少和避免肌肤水分的流失，可改善产品的补充性和涂抹感，使肌肤具有滋润、清爽、不油腻的特点，具有良好的物理化学性质，几乎不含芳烃和硫磺，对眼、皮肤无刺激、无致敏性、对黑头粉刺无副作用。
本发明中的大西洋胄胸鲷油，采用秘鲁进口的无污染为原料，经超临界技术浓缩而成，层层过滤，得到最优质的6度鱼油，富含人体所需的多种不饱和脂肪酸。鱼油原料分为5种不同的级别：6度、7度、8度、9度、10度，度数越低，过滤层数越多，鱼油所含酸值越低，不易腐败，并且所含过氧化物更少，生物活性更高，所以6度鱼油对人体最有益。度数越低的鱼油，也是经过最多层的过滤。过滤后的鱼油所含的酸值和过氧化物也是最低，鱼油的稳定性最好，其主要功效成分不饱和脂肪酸的生物活性也最高。
本发明中的椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯是一种清澈、微黄的极性油，为皮肤提供额外脂肪，减少皮肤内部的水分蒸发，增强皮肤水合作用，使皮肤柔软、有弹性，也使产品易涂抹。椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯具有轻微的脂肪气味，是应用到个人护理品中延展性比较好的润肤剂，是天然椰子油与辛酸、癸酸酯化的混合物。
本发明中的异壬酸异壬酯具有良好的赋酯功效，在涂抹以后不容易体验到油腻感，使肌肤变得更为绵软，而且滋养的长久度较长，尤其是干性肌肤的群体，在运用后可以获得充足的维护及滋润。异壬酸异壬酯归属于生成酯，加上该成分的产品会容易擦抹，有舒爽和极其绵软的触感，是非常好的莹润剂，用后亦无油腻之感。
本发明中的霍霍巴(SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS)籽的化学分子排列和人类的皮脂非常类似，极容易被皮肤类化和吸收,它的滋润和保湿效果非常好，可增加皮肤水分，预防皱纹和老化,含皮肤重要天然维生素及含高滋养度的胶原蛋白质、矿物质，可按摩及保护皮肤，避免水分流失，滋养深层呵护肌肤，使皮肤光泽具有弹性，并缓和风吹日晒对肌肤的伤害,其渗透性及耐高温性极佳，对肌肤有十分显著的美容功效,它的滋润和保湿效果非常好，可增加皮肤水分，预防皱纹和老化。
本发明中的角鲨烷是从深海鲨鱼肝脏中提取的角鲨烯经氢化制得一种烃类油脂，故又名深海鲨鱼肝油，由六个异戊二烯双键组成的碳氢化物，属于类萜结构，是最接近人体皮脂的一种脂类，亲和力强，能够与人类自身的皮脂膜融为一体，在皮肤表面形成一层天然的屏障，能够加强修护表皮，有效形成天然保护膜，帮助肌肤与皮脂间的平衡，角鲨烷还能抑制皮肤脂质的过氧化，能有效渗透入肌肤，并促进皮肤基底细胞的增殖，对延缓皮肤老化，改善并消除黄褐斑均有明显的生理效果，角鲨烷还可使皮肤毛孔张开，促进血液微循环，增进细胞的新陈代谢，帮助修复破损细胞。
本发明中的生育酚乙酸酯是一种有机物，化学式为C31H52O3，属于维生素E 衍生物，维生素E在机体新陈代谢过程中有防止细胞膜和细胞内不饱和脂肪酸等易氧化物被氧化，从而保护细胞膜的完整进而防止衰老的作用，能保持生殖器官的正常功能。维生素E有较强的还原性，可作为抗氧化剂。作为体内抗氧化剂，消除体内自由基，减少紫外线对人体的伤害。由于护肤、护发等用作药品、营养品、化妆品添加剂维生素E有较强的还原性，在人体新陈代谢过程中有抗氧化进而防止衰老的作用。
本发明中的橄榄油富含与皮肤亲和力极佳的角鲨烯和人体必需脂肪酸，吸收迅速，有效保持皮肤弹性和润泽；橄榄油中所含丰富的不饱和脂肪酸和维生素E、K、A、D等及酚类抗氧化物质，能消除面部皱纹，防止肌肤衰老，有护肤护发和防治手足皴裂等功效。
本发明中的葡萄籽油有两种非常重要的成分，亚麻油酸和原花色素。亚麻油酸可以抵抗自由基，抗老化，帮助吸收维生素C和E，强化循环系统的弹性，降低紫外线的伤害，保护肌肤中的胶原蛋白，改善静脉肿胀与水肿，预防黑色素沉淀。原花色素有保护血管弹性，保护肌肤免于紫外线的荼毒，预防胶原纤维和弹性纤维的破坏，使肌肤保持应有的弹性及张力，避免皮肤下垂及皱纹产生。葡萄籽油具有超强抗氧化能力，是维他命E的50倍，能延缓老化，也有皮肤维他命之称，能够从深层保护皮肤，使皮肤免受来自环境污染；加快新陈代谢速度，促进死皮脱落，防止黑色素沉淀；修复细胞膜和细胞壁的功能，促进细胞再生，恢复皮肤弹性。
本发明中的印加果油的脂肪酸组成中α-亚麻酸高达42.4％-51.4％，是为数不多的亚麻酸型植物油，α-亚麻酸是人体必脂肪酸，具有重要的生物学功能，是体内n-3系多不饱和脂肪酸(n-3PUFA)的前体成分，能合成一系列的代物，其中最重要的为二十碳五烯酸(EPA)和二十二碳六烯酸(DHA)。对于稳定细胞膜功能、维持细胞因子和脂蛋白平衡起到重要的作用。
本发明中的毛瑞榈(MAURITIA FLEXUOSA)果油，商品名为布里奇果油，布里奇又叫Moriche Palm,或Mauritia flexuosa，是亚马逊流域的珍稀树种，果实中富含大量的维生素E和胡萝卜等天然抗氧化成分，具有促进细胞再生，强化屏障功能的作用。蕴含珍贵的亚马逊产布里奇树提取的布里奇果油能温和的滋润小婴儿细皮肤，是皮肤保持细致嫩滑,维持天然保护膜。
本发明中的红没药醇、姜(ZINGIBER OFFICINALE)根提取物，商品名为馨敏舒100，由德之馨公司生产，是一种组合物，他们的组成比例：红没药醇为90％、姜(ZINGIBEROFFICINALE)根提取物为10％。纯天然植物来源，具有法国有机产品认证机构Ecocert认证；组成为天然来源a-红没药醇和姜根提取物，外观为油溶性浅黄色油状液体。经三位皮肤模型证明，a-红没药醇可减少PMA引起的白三烯LTB4与白细胞介素1L-1a的释放，同时抑制钙离子介导的白细胞介素1L-1a的产生，但是对PGE2没有抑制作用。而实验证明，姜根提取物可有效抑制炎症介质TNF-a的合成，却对IL-1a无作用。两者复配后成为具有协同效应的复合抗刺激成分，体外实验证明具有高效的抗炎和消退紫外线照射红斑效果，人体实验证明具有协同的皮肤抗刺激作用。
本发明的有益效果为：
1)本发明的一种大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华，是一种具有全油成分，具有抗衰紧致功效，用完即干的优异的使用体验的精华。
2)本发明的一种大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华的制备方法，采用室温冷配的方式，不需要升温，是一种节能，方便的生产工艺。
3)本发明的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华完全符合国家颁布的《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015版)中的各项指标，不含有毒有害成分，不存在潜在危害。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步的描述，但本发明要求保护的范围并不局限于实施例表述的范围。
实施例
本发明实施例1～4的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华中各组分的质量百分配比见下表1：
表1:
对比例
对比例1未添加大西洋胄胸鲷油，具体配比见上表1。
对比例2未添加霍霍巴籽油及角鲨烷，具体配比见上表1。
本发明的制备方法如下：清洗干净反应釜及搅拌器，按质量百分比称取各组分；将除异十二烷外的其它组分加入反应釜中，在室温(25±2℃)下以 500r/min的转速搅拌15min，其上述组分充分混合均匀，得到预混合物；继续向预混合物中加入剩余的异十二烷，在室温(25±2℃)下以500r/min的转速搅拌10min，其上述组分充分混合均匀，得到大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华。
制备得到的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华的外观为浅黄色，能够长期保持颜色与气味不变。
经检测，上述实施例1～4及对比例1～2制备得到的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华均完全符合国家颁布的《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015版)中的各项指标。
抗衰紧致功效评价
测试不同的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华对弹性蛋白的抑制率，进行效果判断(抑制率＞60时，效果明显；60≥抑制率＞30时，效果一般；抑制率≤30时，效果一般)，得到如下表2所示结果：
表2:
| 组别 | 对弹性蛋白的抑制率 | 结果判断 |
| 实施例1 | 34.913±1.065 | 效果一般 |
| 实施例2 | 65.523±1.045 | 效果明显 |
| 实施例3 | 84.452±1.082 | 效果明显 |
| 实施例4 | 88.455±1.041 | 效果明显 |
| 对比例1 | 17.445±1.031 | 效果不明显 |
| 对比例2 | 52.252±1.044 | 效果一般 |
由上表2可以看出，实施例1～4中，随着大西洋胄胸鲷油组分含量的增加，其对弹性蛋白的抑制率明显提升，说明其抗衰紧致功效明显增强。由对比例1 可以看出，没有添加大西洋胄胸鲷油的产品有轻微的抗衰紧致功效，说明其它油脂也有一定抗衰紧致效果。由实施例3及对比例1～2，霍霍巴籽油和角鲨烷在体系里面可以协同增效大西洋胄胸鲷油在配方中抗衰紧致功效。
温和性评价
用鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜测试大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华的刺激性，分为无凝血、轻度凝血、中度凝血、重度凝血4个等级，分别判与0、1、2、3分。测试结果如下表3所示：
表3:
| 测试结果 | 实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | 实施例4 | 对比例1 | 对比例2 |
| 刺激性 | 0.4 | 0.5 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.5 |
由上表3可以看出，本发明所选用的原料都没有什么刺激性，鸡胚测试为无刺激，配方是安全的。
分析实施例3的效果较好，性价比最高，进一步对其抗衰紧致功效做人体功效测试，作如下评价。
招募35名志愿者(年龄在38至59周岁)，填写了受试者同意书，近2个月内无口服或外用过任何影响皮肤状态的产品或药物(如氢醌类制剂)，符合排除标准，志愿者早晚各使用一次产品，测试条件保持测试温度(21±1)℃，保持相对湿度(50±10％)，所有测试者的测试部位同为眼角鱼尾纹和颧骨部位，测试周期为28天，测试回访点为D0、D14、D28，,先用VISIA采集受试者面部图像数据，利用图像分析法测试皱纹的参数。再使用皮肤弹性测试仪采集皮肤颧骨弹性数据，得到皮肤弹性表征值R、R2值，值越接近1,表征皮肤弹性越好。利用数据统计与分析方法得到测试结果如下所示：
表4面部颧骨部位R2原始数据描述性统计表
表5面部颧骨部位R2显著性分析表
| 平均值差值 | 统计方法 | P值 | 差异性分析 | |
| D10-D0 | 0.0222 | 配对T检验 | 0.017 | 有显著性差异 |
| D28-D0 | 0.0235 | 配对T检验 | 0.003 | 有显著性差异 |
表6面部颧骨部位R2值变化率
| 时间点 | D0-D14 | D28-D0 |
| 变化率 | 3.94％ | 4.17％ |
表7鱼尾纹面积占比原始数据描述性统计表
表8鱼尾纹面积占比原始数据显著性分析
| 时间点 | 平均值差值 | 统计方法 | P值 | 差异性分析 |
| D10-D0 | 0.9％ | 配对T检验 | 0.082 | 无显著性差异 |
| D28-D0 | 1.22％ | 配对T检验 | 0.013 | 有显著性差异 |
表9鱼尾纹面积占比变化率R2值变化率
| 时间点 | D0-D14 | D28-D0 |
| 变化率 | 6.96％ | 9.41％ |
由表4～9可以看出，使用测试产品28天后，皮肤弹性指标(R2)和鱼尾纹指标(面积占比)改善具有显著性差异，说明测试产品具有抗皱紧致功效。
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，本发明的保护范围并不仅局限于上述实施例，凡属于本发明思路下的技术方案均属于本发明的保护范围。应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明原理前提下的若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。
Claims (6)
1.一种大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华，其特征在于，包括以下组分：异十二烷、大西洋胄胸鲷油、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯、异壬酸异壬酯、霍霍巴籽油、角鲨烷、生育酚乙酸酯、橄榄油、葡萄籽油、印加果油、毛瑞榈果油、红没药醇、姜根提取物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华，其特征在于，包括以下质量百分比组分：
3.根据权利要求1所述的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华，其特征在于，包括以下质量百分比组分：
4.一种如权利要求1～3任一项所述的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)按比例称量各组分；
(2)将除异十二烷外的其余组分搅拌混合均匀，得预混合物；
(3)将异十二烷加入到所述预混合物中，搅拌混合均匀，即得所述大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华。
5.如权利要求4所述的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(2)及步骤(3)中的混合温度均为25±2℃。
6.如权利要求4所述的大西洋胄胸鲷油抗衰紧致精华的制备方法，其特征在于：步骤(2)及步骤(3)中的搅拌速度均为500r/min。
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