CN115175656A - Cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising a spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and an ester oil - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising a spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and an ester oil Download PDF

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CN115175656A
CN115175656A CN202080089340.XA CN202080089340A CN115175656A CN 115175656 A CN115175656 A CN 115175656A CN 202080089340 A CN202080089340 A CN 202080089340A CN 115175656 A CN115175656 A CN 115175656A
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oil
cosmetic composition
hydrophobic silica
silica aerogel
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川本真
大上和则
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

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  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and at least one ester oil selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 ‑C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 1 ‑C 26 Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols. The cosmetic is prepared from natural plant materialsThe composition is stable for a long period of time even if a large amount of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is contained in the composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising a spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and an ester oil
Technical Field
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and at least one compound chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C 1 -C 26 Ester oils of liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, which compositions are stable over extended periods of time even when large amounts of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is included in the composition.
Background
Long-wearing properties are one of the most important factors for cosmetic compositions, particularly foundations. To achieve long-lasting properties, film formers (such as MQ resins) are used in combination with specific fillers. However, most fillers used in cosmetic compositions are synthetic organic polymers, which are classified as micro-plastics, such as PMMA, nylon and polyurethane. Because of the risk of environmental damage caused by microplastics, there is a need to replace synthetic organic polymers with more environmentally friendly fillers derived from natural sources, such as silica.
Thus, silylated silica aerogel particles, such as VM-2270 aerogel fine particles sold by Dow Corning, are currently used in cosmetic compositions. These particles absorb a large amount of sebum and are suitable for use in foundations. However, these particles have no definite shape. Due to the random shape, if the particles are contained in a large amount in the cosmetic composition, the texture becomes poor.
Spherical silylated silica aerogel particles have recently been developed, which are suggested to impart matting effect and good smoothness to cosmetic compositions while maintaining high oil absorbency (JP-a-2014-088307, JP-a-2014-218433 and JP-a-2018-177620). However, if the spherical silylated silica aerogel particles are used in large amounts in cosmetic compositions, there is a disadvantage that the compositions become unstable.
Accordingly, there is a need to provide a cosmetic composition comprising spherical aerogel particles, such as spherical silylated silica aerogel particles, that can achieve long-term stability.
Disclosure of Invention
It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition comprising spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, which is stable for a long period of time.
The above objects are achieved by a cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and at least one hydrophobic silica selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 26 Ester oils of liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be a spherical hydrophobic aerogel of silanized silica.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average circularity as determined by an image analysis method of 0.8 or more, preferably 0.82 or more, and less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, even more preferably 0.96 or less, most preferably 0.95 or less.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be 2ml/g or more, preferably 3ml/g or more, more preferably 4ml/g or more, most preferably 5ml/g or more, and is 12ml/g or less, preferably 11ml/g or less, more preferably 10ml/g or less, most preferably 8ml/g or less in oil absorption capacity measured at the wet point.
The spherical hydrophobic silica gel may have a particle size of 200m 2 A,/g or more, preferably 400m 2 A,/g or more, more preferably 500m 2 A ratio of/g or more, and 1200m 2 A,/g or less, preferably 1,000m 2 G or less, more preferably 800m 2 A specific surface area by BET method of g or less.
The spherical hydrophobic silica gel may have a pore volume as determined by the BJH method of 1ml/g or more, preferably 2ml/g or more, more preferably 3ml/g or more, and 10ml/g or less, preferably 8ml/g or less, more preferably 7ml/g or less.
The spherical hydrophobic silica gel may have a peak pore radius as determined by the BJH method of 5nm or more, preferably 10nm or more, more preferably 12nm or more, and 50nm or less, preferably 30nm or less, preferably 25nm or less.
The spherical hydrophobic silica gel may have an average particle size of 0.5 μm or more, preferably 1 μm or more, more preferably 2 μm or more, and 30 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 15 μm or less.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be present in an amount of 0.05 wt% or more, preferably 0.1 wt% or more, more preferably 0.3 wt% or more, most preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, more preferably 5 wt% or less, most preferably 2 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The ester oil may be saturated straight chain C 5 -C 15 Aliphatic diacids and saturated branched C 2 -C 5 Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric alcohols, preferably diisopropyl sebacate.
The ester oil may be present in an amount of 0.05 wt% or more, preferably 0.1 wt% or more, more preferably 1 wt% or more, and 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, more preferably 5 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a foundation.
The present invention also relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising:
-mixing an oily component comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel with at least one ester oil to prepare an oily phase, wherein the at least one ester oil is selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 26 Liquid esters of aliphatic mono-or polyhydric alcohols;
-preparing an aqueous phase;
-adding or pouring the aqueous phase into the oil phase while stirring the oil phase.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
Best mode for carrying out the invention
As a result of diligent research, the inventors have found that the silica aerogel having a spherical shape can be prepared by mixing a spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel with a solvent selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 26 The ester oil combination of the liquid ester of an aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohol can improve the stability of the composition in the form of a W/O emulsion, even if spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is present in a large amount in the cosmetic composition.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and at least one silicone oil chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 26 Ester oils of liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols.
Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in more detail.
[ spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel ]
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel.
Aerogels are materials with high porosity. Herein, silica aerogel means solid silica having a porous structure, which is generally obtained by replacing media contained in wet silica with air and drying them while maintaining the solid network structure of silica. Porosity represents the amount of air contained in the apparent volume of the material by volume percent. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention may have a porosity of 60% or more, preferably 70% or more, more preferably 80% or more.
The hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention is characterized in that each particle has a spherical shape. Due to such spherical shape, the hydrophobic silica aerogel can provide a cosmetic composition having good smoothness. The sphericity of the hydrophobic silica aerogel can be determined by the average circularity.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention may have an average circularity of 0.8 or more, preferably 0.82 or more. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel can have an average circularity of less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, even more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less.
The "average circularity" can be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" may be an arithmetic average of circularity obtained by image analysis of a Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) image in which not less than 2000 aerogel particles are observed at 1000 times by secondary electron detection using a Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM).
The "circularity" of each aerogel particle is a value determined by the following formula:
C=4πS/L 2
where C represents the circularity, S represents the area (projected area) of the aerogel particles in the image, and L represents the peripheral length (perimeter) of the aerogel particles in the image. As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.
In the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention, the term "hydrophobicity" means that the silica aerogel particles are difficult to disperse in water. More specifically, the term means that 1g of silica aerogel particles and 100g of ion-exchanged water are added to a bottle, the bottle is stirred or shaken for ten seconds or more, and after the bottle is left to stand, the aerogel phase and the aqueous phase are completely separated. Thus, in one embodiment of the present invention, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel does not exhibit water absorption.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used according to the invention are preferably of the silylated silica type (INCI name: silylated silica). Most preferably, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be those described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433 or JP-A-2018-177620.
The hydrophobicity can be obtained by reacting a hydrophobizing agent with a silanol group present on the surface of silica represented by the following formula:
≡Si-OH
wherein the symbol "≡" represents the remaining three valencies of the Si atom,
thereby converting the silanol group into a group represented by the formula:
(≡Si-O-) (4-n) SiR n
wherein n is an integer from 1 to 3; each R is independently a hydrocarbyl group; in the case where n is 2 or more, two or more R may be the same or different from each other.
The hydrophobing agent may be a silylating agent. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, in spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels, the silica particles can be modified at the surface by silylation. As an example of the silylating agent, a treating agent having one of the following formulas (1) to (3) may be mentioned.
Formula (1):
R n SiX (4-n)
wherein n represents an integer of 1 to 3; r represents a hydrocarbon group; x represents a group which leaves the molecule by bond cleavage with Si atom (i.e., a leaving group) in the reaction with the compound having a hydroxyl group. Each R may be different if n is 2 or greater; and if n is 2 or less, each X may be different.
Formula (2):
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
wherein R is 1 Represents an alkylene group; r 2 And R 3 Independently represent a hydrocarbon group; r 4 And R 5 Independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group.
Formula (3):
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
wherein R is 6 And R 7 Independently represent a hydrocarbon group; m represents an integer of 3 to 6; when having 2 or more R 6 When each R is 6 May be different. When having 2 or more R 7 When each R is 7 May be different.
In the above formula (1), R is a hydrocarbon group, preferably a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably a methyl group.
As examples of the leaving group represented by X, halogen atoms such as chlorine and bromine; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy; from-NH-SiR 3 Wherein R is as defined for R in formula (1).
Specific examples of the hydrophobizing agent represented by the above formula (1) include: chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, monomethyltrimethoxysilane, monomethyltriethoxysilane, and hexamethyldisilazane.
From the viewpoint of favorable reactivity, chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane and/or hexamethyldisilazane may be most preferably used.
The number of bonds of Si atoms to silanol groups on the silica skeleton varies depending on the number of leaving groups X (4-n). For example, if n is 2, the following bonding will occur:
(≡Si-O-) 2 SiR 2
if n is 3, the following bonding will occur:
≡Si-O-SiR 3
in this way, the silanol group can be silylated, and thus can be hydrophobized.
In the above formula (2), R 1 May be an alkylene group, preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 3 carbon atoms.
In the above formula (2), R 2 And R 3 Independently a hydrocarbon group, there may be mentionedR of (A) is the same as the preferred group. R 4 Represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, and when it is a hydrocarbon group, the same preferable groups as those for R in the formula (1) can be mentioned. When silica gel is treated with a compound represented by formula (2) (cyclic silazane), cleavage of Si — N bond occurs by reaction with silanol group, and thus the following bond will be produced on the surface of silica framework in the gel:
(≡Si-O-) 2 SiR 2 R 3
thus, the silanol group may be silylated with the cyclic silazane of the above formula (2) to be hydrophobicized.
Specific examples of the cyclic silazane represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisilazane and octamethylcyclotetrasilazane.
In the above formula (3), R 6 And R 7 The hydrocarbon group is independent, and the same preferable groups as those of R in the formula (2) can be mentioned. m represents an integer of 3 to 6. When the silica gel is treated with the compound represented by formula (3) (cyclic siloxane), the following bonding will occur on the surface of the silica skeleton in the gel:
(≡Si-O-) 2 SiR 6 R 7
in this way, the silanol group can also be silylated by the cyclic siloxane of formula (3) above, and thus can be hydrophobized.
Specific examples of the cyclic siloxane represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels can be prepared by: preparing a silica sol, converting the sol to a gel, aging the gel, washing the aged gel, replacing the water in the washed gel with a solvent, treating the gel with a hydrophobizing agent, and drying the hydrophobized silica.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have a particle size of 200m 2 G or more, preferably 400m 2 A,/g or more, more preferably 500m 2 A specific surface area by BET method of 1200m or more 2 A/g or less, preferablyIs 1000m 2 A/g or less, more preferably 800m 2 A specific surface area by BET method of g or less.
In the present invention, "specific surface area measured by BET method" means a value determined by: drying the sample for measurement at 200 ℃ under reduced pressure not exceeding 1kPa for not less than 3 hours; then measuring the adsorption isotherm of only the nitrogen adsorption side at the liquid nitrogen temperature; the adsorption isotherm was analyzed by BET method. The pressure range used for the analysis was relative pressures from 0.1 to 0.25.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have a pore volume as determined by the BJH method of 1ml/g or more, preferably 2ml/g or more, more preferably 3ml/g or more, and may have a pore volume as determined by the BJH method of 10ml/g or less, preferably 8ml/g or less, more preferably 7ml/g or less. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have a peak pore radius determined by the BJH method of 5nm or more, preferably 10nm or more, more preferably 12nm or more, and may have a peak pore radius determined by the BJH method of 50nm or less, preferably 40nm or less, more preferably 30nm or less.
"pore volume determined by BJH method" means a pore volume derived from a pore having a pore radius of 1nm to 100nm obtained by analyzing an adsorption isotherm on the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the manner explained above in "determination of specific surface area by BET method" by BJH method (Barrett, E. P.; joyner, L. G.; halenda P., J. Am. Chem. Soc. 73, 373 (1951)). "peak hole radius determined by BJT method" refers to the value of the hole radius giving the peak in the hole profile (volume profile) which is plotted as follows: the cumulative pore volume was differentiated on the vertical axis by taking the logarithm of the pore radius obtained by analyzing the adsorption isotherm on the nitrogen adsorption side using the BJH method (which was obtained in the same manner as above), and the pore radius was taken on the horizontal axis.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average particle size of 0.5 μm or more, preferably 1 μm or more, more preferably 2 μm or more, and may have an average particle size obtained by an image analysis method of 30 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 15 μm or less.
The "average particle size" can be measured by image analysis. Specifically, the value of "average particle size" is an arithmetic average of equivalent circle diameters that can be obtained by image analysis of Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) images of, for example, not less than 2000 aerogel particles observed at a magnification of 1000 by secondary electron detection using a Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM). The "equivalent circular diameter" of each aerogel particle is the diameter of a circle having an area equal to the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image.
Preferably, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel can have an oil absorption capacity measurable at the wet point of 2ml/g or more, preferably 3ml/g or more, more preferably 4ml/g or more, and most preferably 5ml/g or more, and can have an oil absorption capacity measurable at the wet point of 12ml/g or less, preferably 11ml/g or less, more preferably 10ml/g or less, most preferably 8ml/g or less.
The oil absorption capacity measured at the wet point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 grams of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It can be measured according to the wet-point method or the method for determining the oil absorption of powders described in standard NF T30-022. The oil absorption may correspond to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder, as described below, by measuring the wet spot.
An amount of m =2g of the powder was placed on a glass plate and then oil (e.g. ester oil, oleic acid or silicone oil) was added dropwise. After 4 to 5 drops of oil were added to the powder, mixing was performed using a spatula and the addition of oil was continued until aggregates of oil and powder were formed. At this point, one drop of oil was added at a time, and the mixture was then ground with a spatula. The addition of oil was stopped when a firm, smooth paste was obtained. The paste must be capable of being spread on a glass sheet without cracking or clumping. The volume Vs of oil used (expressed in ml) was then recorded. The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
Further, the oil absorption capacity can be measured in accordance with JIS-K6217-4.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, (a) the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is one described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433 or JP-A-2018-177620.
The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel can be present in an amount of 0.05 wt% or more, preferably 0.1 wt% or more, more preferably 0.3 wt% or more, most likely 0.5 wt% or more, and can be present in an amount of 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, more preferably 5 wt% or less, most preferably 4 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[ ester oil ]
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester oil selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C 1 -C 26 Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols.
In the context of the present invention, the term "oil" refers to a fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The ester oil of the present invention is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C 1 -C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 26 Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester being preferably greater than or equal to 10, preferably less than or equal to 30.
C 1 -C 26 The carbon number of the aliphatic mono-or poly-acid may be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 or 26. Furthermore, C 1 -C 26 The carbon number of the aliphatic mono-or polyol may be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 or 26.
Preferably, the ester oil may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C 2 -C 20 Aliphatic polybasic acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C 2 -C 20 Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric alcohols. More preferably, the ester oil may be saturated straight chain C 5 -C 15 Aliphatic diacids and saturated branched C 2 -C 5 Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric alcohols.
The ester oil may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
The monoester may have the formula:
R 1 -C(=O)-OR 2
wherein R is 1 Represents a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more olefinic double bonds, and is optionally substituted, and R 2 Represents a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably 3 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more olefinic double bonds, and optionally substituted.
Diesters may have the following formula:
R 4 -OC(=O)-R 3 -C(=O)-OR 4
wherein R is 3 Represents a linear or branched alkylene group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more olefinic double bonds, and is optionally substituted, and R 4 Independently of one another, represents a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more olefinic double bonds, and optionally substituted.
The expression "optionally substituted" is understood to mean R 1 、R 2 、R 3 And/or R 4 May bear one or more substituents, for example selected from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N and S, such as amino, amine, alkoxy, hydroxy.
Preferably, R 1 +R 2 Or R 3 +R 4 May be 9 or more, preferably 12 or more, more preferably 16 or more, most preferably 20 or more.
Among the monoesters of monobasic acid and of monobasic alcohol, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, alkyl myristate such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
C may also be used 4 -C 22 Di-or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 -C 22 Esters of alcohols and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C 4 -C 26 Esters of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.
Mention may in particular be made of: sebacic acid diethyl ester; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glycerol trilactate; tricaprylin; trioctyl dodecyl citrate; triolein citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
As ester oil, C can be used 6 -C 30 And preferably C 12 -C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids. It is reminded that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbyl compound containing multiple alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharous), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methyl glucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the aforementioned sugar esters and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 And is preferably C 12 -C 22 Esters or ester mixtures of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have from one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
Sucrose, mono-or dioleates of glucose or methylglucose, stearates, behenates, oleylpalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleylstearates may be used.
An example which may be mentioned is the Glucate name by the company Amerchol ® DO, a product sold by DO, is methyl glucose dioleate.
The esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonate or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oil palmitate, mixed oil stearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate.
As examples of preferred ester oils there may be mentioned, for example, diisopropyl sebacate, diethyl sebacate and diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate/decanoate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl isostearate stearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glycerol tris (2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetrakis (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate and mixtures thereof.
The most preferred ester oil may be diisopropyl sebacate.
The ester oil may be present in an amount of 0.05 wt% or more, preferably 0.1 wt% or more, more preferably 1 wt% or more, and may be present in an amount of 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, more preferably 5 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[ composition ]
The composition according to the invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion.
The term "W/O emulsion" or "water-in-oil emulsion" refers to any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous fat or oil phase and an aqueous or water phase in the form of droplets dispersed in said fat or oil phase.
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention in the form of a W/O emulsion may be prepared by the following scheme: (1) mixing an oily component comprising a spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and an ester oil to prepare an oil phase, (2) preparing an aqueous phase, and (3) adding or pouring the aqueous phase into the oil phase while stirring the oil phase.
I. Oil phase
In addition to the ester oil, the composition of the present invention may also comprise at least one additional oil.
In the present invention, the term "oil" means a fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The oily phase suitable for preparing the compositions according to the invention may comprise oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of vegetable oils, mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, for example vegetable stearates, such as vegetable stearyloleate, vegetable stearylisotearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/vegetable stearylglutamate (Ajinomoto, eldev PS 203), from fatty acid esters of glycerol to form triglycerides, in particular wherein the fatty acids may have a C.sub.m. 4 To C 36 In particular C 18 To C 36 A range of chain lengths, these oils may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may be, in particular, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or caprylic acid, shea butter, alfalfa oil, white gourd oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, kokum oil, passion flower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, monkey tree oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, rapeseed oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, linseed oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, coconut oil (coconut oil), pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, embroidery thread oilChrysanthemum oil, st.John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil (evening primrose), palm oil, blackcurrant oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio nut oil, white gourd oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk palmy oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, castor oil and watermelon oil and mixtures thereof, or caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearinies Dubois company or by Dynamit Nobel company under the Miglyol name 810 ® 、812 ® And 818 ® Those sold. Mention may also be made of modified vegetable oils, such as activated coconut oil, for example those sold under the name Scalpro or acnated by the company Biotropics.
As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of decanoyl octanoyl glycerides, trimyristin, tripalmitin, trilaurin, tricaprylin, tris (caprate/caprylate) and tris (caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from:
-a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C 6 -C 16 A lower alkane. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example Parleam ® And squalane.
As examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or vaseline, naphthalene, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutenes, isoeicosane and decene/butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
The term "fatty" in fatty alcohols is meant to include a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included in the range of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be straight chain or branched.
The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C 12 -C 20 Alkyl and C 12 -C 20 An alkenyl group. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
As examples of fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
Thus, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 Alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 Alcohols, more preferably straight or branched, saturated C 12 -C 20 An alcohol.
The term "saturated fatty alcohol" herein refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated aliphatic alcohol is selected from any linear or branched saturated C 6 -C 30 A fatty alcohol. Saturated in straight or branched chain C 6 -C 30 Among the aliphatic alcohols, linear or branched saturated C may be preferably used 12 -C 20 A fatty alcohol. Any straight or branched chain saturated C may be more preferably used 16 -C 20 A fatty alcohol. Even more preferably, branched C may be used 16 -C 20 A fatty alcohol.
As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
As examples of the silicone oil, there can be mentioned linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes (polydimethylsiloxanes), methylphenylpolysiloxanes, methylhydropolysiloxanes, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
The oil other than the ester oil may be present in the composition in an amount of 1 wt% or more, preferably 5 wt% or more, more preferably 10 wt% or more, even more preferably 15 wt% or more, and it may be present in the composition in an amount of 40 wt% or less, preferably 30 wt% or less, more preferably 20 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase II
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous medium, i.e. water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water of more than 50% by weight at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure).
Water soluble solvents useful in the compositions of the present invention may also be volatile.
Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of alcohols, such as lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol and dipropylene glycol, C 3 And C 4 Ketones and C 2 -C 4 An aldehyde.
According to another embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C 2 -C 32 A polyol.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the polyols according to the invention are present in liquid form at room temperature.
The polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be compounds of the linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing at least two-OH functions, in particular at least three-OH functions and more in particular at least four-OH functions, on the alkyl chain. Polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating the compositions according to the invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the polyol may be selected from, for example, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, butanediol, isoprene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, glycerol (glycerin), polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, e.g., diglycerin and polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
The aqueous phase (water and optional water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition at a level of 5 wt% or more, preferably 10 wt% or more, more preferably 25 wt% or more, and it may be present in the composition at a level of 50 wt% or less, preferably 45 wt% or less, more preferably 35 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[ composite silica particles ]
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one composite silica particle.
In the context of the present invention, the term "composite silica particles" refers to silica particles comprising a functional compound, preferably a metal oxide, therein. Thus, preferably, the composite silica particles may be referred to as "metal oxide-containing silica particles". Most preferably, the metal oxide is dispersed within the silica particles.
The metal oxide may preferably be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and zirconium oxide, or mixtures thereof, more particularly from titanium dioxide (TiO) 2 ) And zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, titanium dioxide may be used.
The composite silica particles may have an average particle size determined by an image analysis method of 0.1 μm or more, preferably 0.5 μm or more, more preferably 1 μm or more, and may have an average particle size determined by an image analysis method of 50 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 12 μm or less.
The "average particle size" can be determined according to the following procedure: the particle sizes of 50 particles were measured using SEM images and the average of the particle sizes was calculated.
The composite silica particles may be porous or non-porous, and they may have a low oil absorption capacity.
In the composite silica particles, the weight ratio of silica to functional compound (preferably metal oxide, most preferably titania) may be from 9 to 5, preferably from 4 to 3, more preferably from 7.
The composite silica particles may be surface treated to be hydrophobic. For example, the composite silica particles may be surface treated with an alkylsilane.
Most preferably, CHIFFONSIL-5T, sold by JGC catalyst and Chemicals, can be used as the composite silica particles.
The composite silica particles may be present in an amount of 0.01 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, more preferably 1 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composite silica particles may be present in an amount of 10 wt% or less, preferably 7 wt% or less, more preferably 5 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[ surfactant ]
The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture.
Examples of the anionic surfactant that may be used in the composition of the present invention may include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, sulfates of alkylphenoxypolyoxyethylene ethanol, alpha-olefin sulfonates, beta-alkoxy olefin sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carbonates, succinates, sulfosuccinates, sarcosinates, octoxynol or nonoxynol phosphates (octoxynol or nonoxynol phosphates), taurates, fatty taurates, sulfated monoglycerides, fatty acid aminopolyoxyethylene sulfates, isethionates, alkylbenzene sulfonic acids, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfuric acids, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, and polyoxyethylene alkylamide ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof.
Examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention may include polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, for example adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Laureth-9 to Laureth-50, as the INCI name), especially Laureth-9; esters of polyols and fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. containing oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, e.g. glycerol and C 8 -C 24 Esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, especially polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-and/or tristearates), such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate; sugar and C 8 -C 24 Esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, e.g. C 8 -C 24 Polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of fatty acids, in particular polysorbate 80, such as the product sold by Croda under the name "TWEEN 80"; sugar and C 8 -C 24 Ethers of fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl/octyl glucoside; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylene oxypropylene alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanolamides; an alkylamine oxide; alkyl polyglycosides and silicone surfactants, for example, dimethicone containing oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups, such as PEG-10 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, and PEG/PPG-20/6 dimethicone.
Examples of amphoteric surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention can include alkanoylamidopropyl-N, N-dimethylglycine betaine, alkanoylamidopropyl-N, N-dimethyl-2-hydroxypropyl sulfobetaine, alkyl-N, N-dimethylglycine betaine, alkanoylamidopropyl-N, N-dimethyl-propyl sulfobetaine, lauryl-N, N-dimethyl-2-hydroxypropyl sulfobetaine, and salts thereof.
Examples of cationic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention may include C 8 -C 24 Long chain dialkyl dimethyl ammonium salts, long chain monoalkyl monobenzyl dimethyl ammonium salts and long chain monoalkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, all of which may have amide or ester linkages therein, and the counter ion is preferably a halogen atom such as chlorine and bromine atoms, a sulfate salt, and an alkyl group-containing sulfuric acid residue such as methyl sulfuric acid and ethyl sulfuric acid and salts thereof. The amine type cationic surfactant comprises a surfactant having a long chain C 8 -C 24 Long chain dialkyl monomethylamine salts of alkyl groups which may have amide or ester linkages therein, preferably in the form of the hydrochloride, sulfate or phosphate salts, and salts thereof.
The surfactant may be present in the composition at a content of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, and it may be present in the composition at a content of 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[ UV Filter ]
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one UV filter.
The UV filter may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" refer to a solid and a liquid at 25 ℃ and 1 atmosphere, respectively. The UV filter can be made of at least one organic or inorganic material, preferably at least one organic material. Therefore, the UV filter is preferably an organic UV filter.
The organic UV filter may be selected from anthranilic acid derivatives; a dibenzoylmethane derivative; cinnamic acid derivatives; salicylic acid derivatives such as homosalicylate (homomenthyl salicylate) and ethylhexyl salicylate; a camphor derivative; a benzophenone derivative; beta, beta-diphenylacrylate derivatives; a triazine derivative; benzotriazole derivatives; a benzylidene malonate derivative; a benzimidazole derivative; imidazoline derivatives; bis-benzoxazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and its derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; a masking polymer and a masking silicone; dimers derived from alpha-alkylstyrene; 4, 4-diarylbutadienes; octocriline and its derivatives, guaiazolin and its derivatives, rutin and its derivatives, flavonoids, biflavones, oryzanol and its derivatives, quinic acid and its derivatives, phenols, retinol, cysteine, aromatic amino acids, peptides having aromatic amino acid residues, and mixtures thereof.
The UV filter may be present in the composition in an amount of 1 wt% or more, preferably 3 wt% or more, more preferably 5 wt% or more, and it may be present in the composition in an amount of 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, more preferably 8 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[ colorant or pigment ]
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one colorant or pigment to impart a desired color or effect.
Examples of the colorant or pigment may include inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and/or lakes.
As examples of inorganic pigments, mention may be made of metal oxides and metal hydroxides, such as magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium oxide, calcium hydroxide, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, iron oxides (. Alpha. -Fe) 2 O 3 、γ-Fe 2 O 3 、Fe 3 O 4 FeO), red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, iron hydroxide, titanium dioxide, titanium lower oxides, zirconium oxide, chromium hydroxide, manganese oxide, cobalt oxide, cerium oxide, nickel oxide, and zinc oxide, as well as composite oxides and composite hydroxides such as iron titanate, cobalt titanate, and cobalt aluminate. Suitable inorganic pigments also include non-metal oxides such as alumina and silica, ultramarine blue (i.e., sodium aluminum silicate containing sulfur), prussian blue, manganese violet, bismuth oxychloride, talc, mica, sericite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium silicate, silicic acidAluminum magnesium, silicon dioxide, titanated mica, iron oxide titanated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and the like.
As examples of organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, carmine, phthalocyanine blue and green pigments, diarylide yellow and orange pigments, and azo-type red and yellow pigments, such as toluidine red, lithographic red, naphthol red and brown pigments, and combinations thereof.
"lake" generally refers to a colorant prepared from a water-soluble organic dye (e.g., D & C or FD & C) that has precipitated onto an insoluble reactive or adsorptive substrate or diluent. The term "D & C" as used herein refers to drug and cosmetic colorants approved by the FDA for use in drugs and cosmetics. The term "FD & C" as used herein refers to food, drug and cosmetic colorants approved by the FDA for use in food, drug and cosmetics. Suitable substrates for forming lakes include, but are not limited to, mica, bismuth oxychloride, sericite, alumina, aluminum, copper, bronze, silver, calcium, zirconium, barium and strontium, mica titanate, fumed silica, spherical silica, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), micronized polytetrafluoroethylene, boron nitride, acrylate copolymers, aluminum silicate, aluminum octenyl succinate starch, bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glycerin starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc rosinate, alumina, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, walnut, silica silicate, silk powder, sericite, soybean powder, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, shell powder, and mixtures thereof.
The colorants or pigments may be surface treated, for example, to make them more hydrophobic or more dispersible in the vehicle. The surface treatment compound may include a hydrophobic moiety selected from, for example, alkyl, aryl, allyl, vinyl, alkyl-aryl, aryl-alkyl, organosiloxane, diorganosiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, methylsiloxane, polyurethane, siloxane-polyurethane, and fluoro-or perfluoro-derivatives thereof. Other hydrophobic modifiers may include lauroyl lysine, isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (ITT), ITT and polydimethylsiloxane (ITT/polydimethylsiloxane) crosspolymer, ITT and amino acids, ITT/triethoxycaprylylsilane crosspolymer, waxes (e.g., carnauba), fatty acids (e.g., stearate), HDI/trimethylol caprolactone crosspolymer, PEG-8 methyl ether triethoxysilane, aloe vera, jojoba ester, lecithin, perfluoroalchol phosphate, and Magnesium Myristate (MM).
Interference pigments or pearlescent pigments may be included in the compositions according to the invention. The interference pigments or pearlescent pigments may generally consist of layers of about 50 to 300nm of TiO 2 、Fe 2 O 3 Or Cr 2 O 3 Etc. of thin films of mica. Interference or pearlescent pigments can include white pearlescent materials, such as mica coated with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride; and colored pearlescent materials, such as titanium mica with iron oxide, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with organic pigments of the type described above.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise "titanium dioxide (and) aluminium oxide (and) titanium isopropyltriisostearate", "titanium iron oxide (and) titanium isopropyltriisostearate" and/or "titanium dioxide (and) aluminium hydroxide (and) polydimethylsiloxane (and) hydropolydimethylsiloxane".
The colorants or pigments may be present in the composition at a level of 1 wt.% or more, preferably 5 wt.% or more, more preferably 10 wt.% or more, and they may be present in the composition at a level of 25 wt.% or less, preferably less than 20 wt.%, more preferably 15 wt.% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[ additives ]
The composition according to the invention may also comprise any other optional additive commonly used in the cosmetic field, for example selected from fillers such as magnesium sulphate, dyes, resins, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, fragrances, neutralising agents, pH adjusting agents, antibacterial agents, other cosmetic active agents, for example vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectants, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a film-forming agent, for example a film-forming silicone resin, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention may comprise thickeners, for example hydrophilic thickeners, for example with C 10 To C 22 Fatty acid ammonium chloride modified hectorite, especially hectorite (disteardimonium hectorite) modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, additional oil-absorbing particles. As examples of oil-absorbing particles, mention may be made of cellulose, silica, silicates, perlite, boron nitride, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, hydrophobic silicas such as silica silicates, kaolin, talc, polyamide (especially nylon-6) powders, acrylic polymer powders, especially powders of polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, silicones and mixtures thereof.
These additives and their concentrations should be such that they do not alter the properties desired for the compositions of the present invention.
[ method and use ]
The composition according to the invention is intended for use as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be intended for application to keratin materials, such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, mucous membranes such as the lips and the nails, in particular the skin, for example the skin of the face.
The composition according to the invention can be used as a skin cosmetic composition, preferably as a skin cosmetic composition, more preferably as a foundation.
The composition according to the invention can be used in a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, mucous membranes such as the lips and the nails, in particular the skin, for example the skin of the face, which comprises the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.
The invention also relates to the use of at least one ester oil in a cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, in order to stabilize the composition.
Another aspect of the present invention is an ester oil for use in improving the stability of a cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion, the cosmetic composition comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel.
Examples
The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.
Examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1
Method of making inventive foundation composition and comparative foundation composition
The ingredients of phase (A1) described in table 1 were thoroughly mixed at 45 ℃. The ingredients of phase (A2) were added to phase (A1) and allowed to dissolve completely. The ingredients of phase (A3) were added and mixed at 45 ℃ for 5 minutes with a Moritz homogenizer at a speed of 3,500 rpm. The ingredients of phases (B), (C1) and (C2) were added and mixed at 3,500 rpm for 10 minutes. The mixture of phase (D) ingredients was added and mixed at 3,500 rpm for 10 minutes at 45 ℃. The resulting foundation composition was cooled to 25 ℃. Finally, the ingredients of phase (E) were added and mixed at 3000 rpm for 5 minutes to obtain a W/O emulsion type foundation composition.
The spherical silica aerogel in phase (C2) had an average primary particle size of 10 μm, an average circularity of 0.88, 592m 2 BET specific surface area/g, pore volume measured by BJH method of 4.0mL/g, oil absorption measured in JIS-K6217-4 of 6.8mL/g, and peak pore radius measured by BJH method of 20 nm.
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE003
In table 1, all ingredients are based on "wt%" as the active ingredient.
Evaluation of
[ stability ]
The W/O emulsion foundation compositions of the present invention and comparative were each allowed to stand at 45 ℃. Stability was assessed from appearance changes, particularly the separation between the aqueous and oil phases. The criteria are as follows: "very good" means that the emulsion is stable for two months, "good" means that the emulsion is stable for one month, but the oil phase separates slightly after two months, "general" means that the emulsion is stable for one week, but the oil phase separates slightly after one month, and "poor" means that the water phase and the oil phase separate after one day.
[ flexibility of film ]
At 1.5mg/cm 2 Ratio of (1) A W/O emulsion type foundation composition of the invention and a comparative W/O emulsion type foundation composition were each uniformly applied to artificial skin (artificial leather sold by Idemitsu Techno Fine Ltd., model name: SUPPLALE). The skin was allowed to stand for thirty minutes, and a film produced from the foundation composition was formed on the artificial skin. The skin was forced by hand to contract and expand for 10 seconds. This "contraction and expansion" process was carried out 3 times for 10 seconds, and it was evaluated by observation whether cracks were generated. The criteria are as follows: "very good" means no cracks were generated, "good" means some fine cracks were generated, and "poor" means many cracks were generated.
The results are shown in table 1.
As shown in table 1 above, only the combination of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention and ester oil has not only high stability but also high flexibility. On the other hand, when ester oil is not used, the stability is very low and a large number of cracks are generated. Thus, it was demonstrated that the ester oil of the present invention can improve the stability of a composition comprising a large amount of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel.

Claims (14)

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and at least one ester oil selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 26 Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is a spherical hydrophobic aerogel of silylated silica.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel has an average circularity as determined by image analysis of 0.8 or more, preferably 0.82 or more, and less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, more preferably 0.97 or less, further preferably 0.96 or less, most preferably 0.95 or less.
4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel has an oil absorption capacity measured at a wet point of 2ml/g or more, preferably 3ml/g or more, more preferably 4ml/g or more, most preferably 5ml/g or more, and 12ml/g or less, preferably 11ml/g or less, more preferably 10ml/g or less, most preferably 8ml/g or less.
5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel has a particle size of 200m 2 A,/g or more, preferably 400m 2 A,/g or more, more preferably 500m 2 A,/g or more, and 1200m 2 A/g or less, preferably 1000m 2 G or less, more preferably 800m 2 A specific surface area by BET method of g or less.
6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel has a pore volume determined by the BJH method of 1ml/g or more, preferably 2ml/g or more, more preferably 3ml/g or more, and 10ml/g or less, preferably 8ml/g or less, more preferably 7ml/g or less.
7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel has a peak pore radius of 5nm or more, preferably 10nm or more, more preferably 12nm or more, and 50nm or less, preferably 30nm or less, more preferably 25nm or less, as determined by the BJH method.
8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel has an average particle size of 0.5 μm or more, preferably 1 μm or more, more preferably 2 μm or more, and 30 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 15 μm or less.
9. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is present in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, most likely 0.5% by weight or more, and 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, most preferably 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the ester oil is a saturated linear chain C 5 -C 15 Aliphatic diacids and saturated branches C 2 -C 5 The liquid ester of an aliphatic monohydric alcohol is preferably diisopropyl sebacate.
11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the ester oil is present in an amount of 0.05 wt% or more, preferably 0.1 wt% or more, more preferably 1 wt% or more, and 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, more preferably 5 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the cosmetic composition is a skin makeup composition, preferably a foundation.
13. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising:
-mixing an oily component comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and at least one ester oil to prepare an oily phase, wherein the at least one ester oil is selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 Aliphatic mono-or poly-acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 26 Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols;
-preparing an aqueous phase;
-adding or pouring the aqueous phase into the oil phase while stirring the oil phase.
14. Cosmetic process for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising the application on the keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
CN202080089340.XA 2019-12-24 2020-12-11 Cosmetic composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising a spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and an ester oil Pending CN115175656A (en)

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