CN114788793A

CN114788793A - Powder pigment composition

Info

Publication number: CN114788793A
Application number: CN202210082933.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 杜洁萍; R·白; 彭庆芸; W·加布莱勒
Original assignee: Merck Patent GmbH
Current assignee: Merck Patent GmbH
Priority date: 2021-01-25
Filing date: 2022-01-25
Publication date: 2022-07-26

Abstract

The present invention relates to powder pigment compositions consisting of component a comprising BiOCl flakes, component B comprising one or more effect pigments and component C comprising at least one ester oil or castor oil, and the use of said powder pigment compositions in cosmetic formulations and cosmetic products.

Description

Powder pigment composition

Technical Field

The present invention relates to powder pigment compositions consisting of component a comprising BiOCl flakes, component B comprising one or more effect pigments and component C comprising at least one ester oil or castor oil, and to their use in cosmetic formulations and cosmetic products.

Background

The predominant color systems of cosmetic powders commonly used on the market generally comprise conventional absorption pigments and/or pearlescent pigments, wherein a certain skin adhesion can be achieved by adding oils or greases. However, absorption pigments generally have poor skin feel and matte color effects, while pearlescent pigments generally exhibit poor skin adhesion and some gloss or sparkle effect depending on the effect pigment used. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) pigments have been proposed for use in cosmetic compositions to enhance skin adhesion. BiOCl pigments are used in cosmetics and are well known in the art because of their high refractive index and pearlescent or metallic silver luster. BiOCl pigments can be used in dispersed form in cosmetic compositions (US 7,033,614; WO 2013/107776). However, the skin adhesion of cosmetic compositions comprising BiOCl pigments and other effect pigments is often still unsatisfactory and there is room for further improvement. Thus, there is still a need for new pigment compositions.

Disclosure of Invention

It is an object of the present invention to provide new and improved pigment compositions which overcome the disadvantages of the compositions known from the prior art and exhibit one or more of the abovementioned advantages, in particular improved skin adhesion, stability to washing, a strong metallic lustrous effect, an immediate high mirror feel and compressibility.

It has surprisingly been found that this object is achieved by the powder pigment compositions described and claimed below (hereinafter also referred to simply as "pigment compositions").

The present invention relates to powder pigment compositions consisting of component a comprising BiOCl flakes, component B comprising one or more effect pigments and component C comprising at least one ester oil or castor oil, and their use in cosmetic formulations, such as pressed or dusted powders, eye shadows, blushes, and the like.

Surprisingly, the present invention provides a powder pigment composition which gives cosmetic formulations such as pressed and loose powders, eye shadows and blushes a strong gloss, excellent compressibility, stability and durability. In particular, they can significantly enhance the skin tone persistence and anti-washout properties of solid pigments while still being easily removable by conventional facial cleansing, without the need for additional makeup removal steps, and achieve a uniquely high specular reflectance or gloss.

In the pigment compositions according to the invention, the proportion of component A is preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, most preferably from 28 to 35% by weight. The proportion of component B is preferably from 15 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 75% by weight, most preferably from 50 to 60% by weight. The proportion of component C is preferably from 5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, most preferably from 12 to 15% by weight.

The pigment composition according to the invention preferably consists of 5 to 50% by weight of BiOCl flakes, 15 to 90% by weight of one or more effect pigments and/or one or more absorption pigments (optionally including one or more colorants), and 5 to 35% by weight of at least one ester oil or castor oil.

Preferably, the pigment composition according to the invention consists of 15 to 40% by weight of BiOCl flakes, 35 to 75% by weight of one or more effect pigments and 10 to 25% by weight of at least one ester oil or castor oil.

Very preferably, the pigment composition according to the invention consists of 28 to 35% by weight of BiOCl flakes, 50 to 60% by weight of one or more effect pigments and 12 to 15% by weight of at least one ester oil or castor oil.

Preferably, the ratio of pigment (effect pigment + BiOCl flakes) to oil is ≥ 1, especially from 2 to 20, especially from 3 to 9.

The BiOCl flakes used in component a can be coated and/or uncoated BiOCl flakes, preferably uncoated BiOCl flakes.

The coated BiOCl flakes preferably comprise a base material of a metal oxide, in particular TiO ₂ 、TiO ₂ A coating of suboxides, iron oxides and mixtures thereof or a coating of an absorbing colorant such as carmine, berlin blue or an organic absorbing colorant.

The size of the BiOCl flakes is preferably from 1 to 100. mu.m, very preferably from 1 to 50 μm, more preferably from 2 to 40 μm, most preferably from 2 to 35 μm.

The thickness of the BiOCl pigment particles is preferably <100nm, very preferably from 1 to 100nm, more preferably <80nm, most preferably about 60 nm.

The BiOCl flakes preferably have a particle size <25 μm and a thickness <100 nm.

Pigment products containing BiOCl flakes for use in component A are commercially available, for example from Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany/EMD Performance Materials and BASF

Liquid silver,

The effect pigments used in component B are preferably selected from pearlescent pigments, interference pigments, metallic effect pigments, multilayer pigments having transparent, translucent and/or opaque layers, goniochromatic (goniochromatic) pigments (colour-difference pigments and/or colour-change pigments), holographic pigments and LCP (liquid crystal pigments). Preferred pigments are pearlescent pigments, interference pigments, multilayer pigments having transparent, translucent and/or opaque layers and effect pigments (colour-shifting pigments and/or colour-shifting pigments).

The effect pigments are preferably based on platelet-shaped substrates. Suitable substrates for the effect pigments are, for example, all known coated or uncoated platelet-shaped substrates, preferably transparent or translucent flakes. Suitable are, for example, synthetic or natural mica, glass flakes, metal flakes, SiO _x Flake (x ═ 2.0, preferably x ═ 2), Al ₂ O ₃ Flakes, TiO ₂ Flakes, oxide flakes of synthetic or natural iron, graphite flakes, Liquid Crystal Polymers (LCP), holographic pigments or mixtures of said flakes. The metal flakes may be made of aluminum powder, titanium, bronze powder, copper powder, steelOr silver, preferably aluminum powder and/or titanium. The metal foils here may or may not have been passivated by a corresponding treatment. Preferably coated or uncoated synthetic or natural mica flakes, glass flakes, SiO ₂ Flakes and Al ₂ O ₃ A sheet. The glass flakes may consist of all glass types known to the person skilled in the art, for example a glass, E glass, C glass, ECR glass, recycled glass, window glass, borosilicate glass,

Glass, laboratory dish glass or optical glass. The refractive index of the glass flakes is preferably from 1.45 to 1.80, in particular from 1.50 to 1.70. The glass substrate is particularly preferably composed of C glass, ECR glass or borosilicate glass.

Especially preferred are glass flakes, such as a glass, C glass, E glass, ECR glass, quartz glass and borosilicate glass.

Commercially available effect pigments are described, for example, under the trade name

And the like are known.

The particle size of the base material of the effect pigment, and hence the particle size of the effect pigment, is preferably in the range of from 1 to 700 μm, more preferably in the range of from 2 to 250 μm.

The thickness of the sheetlike substrate and/or of the sheetlike substrate coated with one or more transparent, translucent and/or opaque layers is generally between 0.05 and 20 μm, in particular between 0.1 and 5 μm, preferably <2 μm.

The particle size distribution of the effect pigment and its substrate can be determined by various methods commonly used in the art. However, according to the invention, laser diffraction methods in standard processes are preferably used with the aid of a Malvern Mastersizer 2000, Beckman Coulter, Microtrac, etc.

Furthermore, the particle size and thickness of individual particles can also be determined by means of techniques such as SEM (scanning electron microscope) images. Wherein the particle size and geometric particle thickness can be determined by direct measurement. To determine the mean, at least 1000 particles were evaluated individually and the results averaged.

The effect pigments preferably have a shape factor (aspect ratio: diameter/thickness ratio) of from 5 to 750, in particular from 10 to 400 and very particularly preferably from 10 to 250.

In a preferred embodiment, the substrate is coated with one or more transparent, translucent and/or opaque layers comprising metal oxides, metal oxide hydrates, metal suboxides, metals, metal fluorides, metal nitrides, metal oxynitrides or mixtures of these materials. Preferably, the substrate is partially or fully wrapped by these layers.

The metal oxide, metal oxide hydrate, metal suboxide, metal fluoride, metal nitride or metal oxynitride layer or mixtures thereof may have a low refractive index (refractive index)<1.8) or high refractive index (refractive index ≧ 1.8, preferably>2.0). Suitable metal oxides and metal oxide hydrates are all metal oxides and metal oxide hydrates known to the person skilled in the art, such as aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, silicon oxide hydrate, iron oxide, tin oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, chromium oxide, titanium oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, titanium oxide hydrate and mixtures thereof, for example ilmenite or pseudobrookite. Metal suboxides that can be used are, for example, titanium suboxides. Suitable metals are, for example, chromium, aluminum, nickel, silver, gold, titanium, copper or alloys, and suitable metal fluorides are, for example, magnesium fluoride. Metal nitrides or metal oxynitrides which may be used are, for example, the nitrides or oxynitrides of the metals titanium, zirconium and/or tantalum. Preferably, metal oxides, metals, metal fluorides and/or metal oxide hydrate layers and very particularlyIt is further preferred that the metal oxide and/or metal oxide hydrate layer is applied to the support. Furthermore, there may also be multilayer structures comprising layers of metal oxides, metal oxide hydrates, metals or metal fluorides of high and low refractive index, preferably with layers of alternating high and low refractive index. Layer patterns comprising a high refractive index layer and a low refractive index layer are particularly preferred, one or more of which may be applied to the substrate. Here, the order of the high refractive index layer and the low refractive index layer may be matched to the substrate so as to include the substrate in the multilayer structure. In other embodiments, the layer of metal oxide, metal oxide hydrate, metal suboxide, metal fluoride, metal nitride, or metal oxynitride may be mixed or doped with a colorant or other element. Suitable colorants or further elements are, for example, organic or inorganic colored pigments, for example colored metal oxides such as magnetite or chromium oxide, or colored pigments such as iron blue (berlin blue/prussian blue), ultramarine, bismuth vanadate, tannar blue, or organic colored pigments such as indigo, azo pigments, phthalocyanines or carmine, or elements such as yttrium or antimony. Effect pigments comprising these layers exhibit a multiplicity of colors in terms of their mass tone and, in many cases, can exhibit angle-dependent color changes (flop) due to interference. Examples and embodiments of the above-described materials and pigment structures are also given, for example, in research publications RD 471001 and RD 472005, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference. Such pigments may be referred to by the name

And

commercially available (manufacturer: Merck KGaA Darmstadt, Germany/EMD Performance Materials).

Preferably, the last layer of the layer pattern comprising the high refractive index layer and the low refractive index layer is a high refractive indexRate layers, e.g. TiO ₂ Titanium suboxides, iron oxides and/or mixtures of these oxides, for example ilmenite or pseudobrookite, with or without further colorants. TiO 2 ₂ The rutile modification is preferred, but the anatase modification is also possible.

Particularly preferred effect pigments have one of the following structures:

substrate flake + (SiO) ₂ )+TiO ₂ (rutile)

Substrate flake + (SiO) ₂ )+Fe ₂ O ₃

Substrate flake + (SiO) ₂ )+Fe ₃ O ₄

Substrate flake + (SiO) ₂ )+TiO ₂ (rutile) + SiO ₂ +TiO ₂ (rutile)

Substrate flake + (SiO) ₂ )+TiO ₂ (anatase) + SiO ₂ +TiO ₂ (anatase)

Substrate flake + (SiO) ₂ )+TiO ₂ /Fe ₂ O ₃ +SiO ₂ +TiO ₂ +TiO ₂ /Fe ₂ O ₃

Substrate flake + (SiO) ₂ )+TiO ₂ /Fe ₂ O ₃ +SiO ₂ +TiO ₂ /Fe ₂ O ₃ 。

The thickness of the layer of metal oxide, metal oxide hydrate, metal suboxide, metal fluoride, metal nitride or metal oxynitride or a mixture thereof (geometric layer thickness) is usually from 3 to 300nm, and in the case of the layer of metal oxide, metal oxide hydrate, metal suboxide, metal fluoride, metal nitride or metal oxynitride or a mixture thereof, preferably from 20 to 200 nm. The thickness of the metal layer is preferably 4 to 140 nm.

The effect pigments used in component B can be prepared by vapor deposition techniques or by the well-known wet-chemical preparation methods. The pigment is then spray-dried or oven-dried (temperature 110 ℃) and optionally baked at a temperature (150 to 1000 ℃). These methods are familiar to the person skilled in the art. In the case of wet-chemical applications, the corresponding oxides, hydroxides and/or oxide hydrates and optionally colorants and/or adjuvants are deposited on the substrate.

Optionally, an organic coating, preferably a clear coating, may be applied to the effect pigments. The organic coating may be a coating of an organic oligomer or polymer.

The ester oil used in component C may be a polar ester oil or a non-polar ester oil, preferably a polar oil. Preferred ester oils are polar hydrocarbon-based oils, preferably selected from 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, castor oil, ethylhexyl ethylhexenoate, mineral oil, nitrocellulose, and the like.

Particularly preferably, 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate or castor oil is used.

The pigment compositions of the present invention can preferably be prepared by predispersing the BiOCl in an oil, adding the effect pigments and mixing all the components. Physical mixing requires a certain intensity, e.g. moderate or high speed stirring in a short time, preferably less than 15 seconds, and can be repeated several times until the mixture is homogeneous, but preferably abrasive mixing is avoided.

The pigment compositions according to the invention are advantageously used for coloring/decorating cosmetics, such as powders (pressed and/or loose powders), eye shadows, blushes, lip products such as lipsticks, lip glosses, lip varnishes, lip glazes and the like, rouges, cosmetics, skin creams, sun protection compositions, hair care products, cosmetic sticks and pens, hair care products and hair dyes such as temporary hair coloring products, nail care products, nail lacquers and nail varnish products, and also cosmetic powders of all types.

The pigment compositions of the present invention can also be mixed with fillers commercially available in the prior art. Fillers which may be mentioned are, for example, uncoated natural and synthetic mica, glass beads or glass powders, nylon powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, pure or filled melamine resins, talc, silica, glass, kaolin, oxides or hydroxides of aluminum, magnesium, calcium or zinc, barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, carbon, boron nitride and physical or chemical combinations of these substances. There is no limitation on the particle shape of the filler. It may be, for example, flaky, spherical, needle-shaped, crystalline or amorphous, as required.

The pigment compositions according to the invention can of course also be combined in formulations with any type of cosmetic raw materials and auxiliary combinations. These include, inter alia, oils, fats, waxes, film formers, surfactants, antioxidants, for example vitamin C or vitamin E, stabilizers, odor enhancers, silicone oils, emulsifiers, solvents, for example ethanol or ethyl acetate or butyl acetate, preservatives and auxiliaries which generally determine the application properties, for example thickeners and rheological additives, for example bentonite, hectorite, silicon dioxide, calcium silicate, gelatin, high molecular weight carbohydrates and/or surface-active auxiliaries and the like.

Furthermore, the pigment compositions according to the invention can also be combined with cosmetic active ingredients, such as bisabolol, LPO, VTA, Ectoin (Ectoin), emblica, allantoin, bioflavonoids and derivatives thereof.

The pigment compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise other conventional skin-protecting or skin-care active ingredients. These may in principle be any active ingredient known to the person skilled in the art.

The cosmetic preparations comprising the pigment compositions of the invention may be mentioned in the form of applications such as: pressed powders, loose powders, pastes, ointments, salves, gels, and sticks. Any desired conventional excipients, adjuvants and other active ingredients may be added to the formulation, if desired.

In addition to the pigment compositions, the ointments, salves, pastes, creams and gels preferably contain one or more conventional excipients, for example animal and vegetable fats, waxes, paraffins, starch, tragacanth, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycols, silicones, bentonites, silicas, talc and zinc oxide, or mixtures of these substances.

In addition to the pigment composition, the powder preferably also comprises one or more customary excipients, for example lactose, talc, silicon dioxide, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate and polyamide powder, PMMA or mixtures of these substances.

In addition to the pigment composition, the solid stick preferably also comprises one or more conventional excipients, such as natural or synthetic waxes and oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, lanolin and other fatty substances.

The pigment compositions according to the invention are likewise suitable for the abovementioned fields of application, for blends with organic dyes and/or pigments, for example transparent and opaque white, colored and black pigments, and also with oxides of flake-form iron, organic pigments, holographic pigments, LCP (liquid-crystalline polymers).

The pigment compositions of the present invention can be introduced into the application system by simple stirring under low shear.

Advantageously, the pigment compositions according to the invention provide effects such as high gloss, high stability, high compressibility, compatibility with the application system, non-particulate texture appearance, continuous gloss, mirror effect and/or metallic effect in various applications.

Surprisingly, it is possible with the pigment compositions according to the invention to achieve very bright gloss for applications such as loose powder, lip products and the like, and excellent compressibility, stability, excellent take off and high gloss for pressed powders.

In addition to the improved visual effect, the skin feel of the new formulations is also significantly improved, at least in most cases. The pigment compositions of the present invention are capable of providing a very smooth feel. The skin feel of pigments is very important for cosmetics, especially in applications like face powder, eye shadow, lip products etc.

The novel pigment compositions have a strong metallic lustre and an outstanding mirror-like feel and are durable on the skin. The composition exhibits anti-washout effects, but is easily removed by conventional facial cleansing formulations.

All weight percentages in this context are based on the total weight of the pigment (or pigment and colorant) composition, unless otherwise indicated.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages are by weight and all temperatures are expressed in degrees celsius. Throughout this paper, the amounts of components always add up to 100% by weight or 100% by mole relative to the total composition, even though a range of percentages may lead to higher values.

Detailed Description

Examples

Pigment compositions were prepared as shown in tables 1 and 2. Examples 1 to 6 are inventive examples. Example 7 is a comparative example in which the composition does not contain ester oil or castor oil.

TABLE 1

TABLE 2

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

the BiOCl was pre-dispersed in oil. All ingredients were then mixed by stirring at moderate or high speed for less than 15 seconds and repeated several times until the mixture appeared homogeneous.

Gloss evaluation

1) For evaluation, the pigment mixtures of examples 1 to 7 were applied to the skin, rinsed with water for 2 minutes and visually inspected.

Comparison of the gloss before and after rinsing shows that the pigment mixtures according to the invention have a strong silver metallic luster and exhibit rinsing-resistant and long-lasting properties.

2) In addition, the gloss of the pigment compositions of examples 6 and 7 was measured using a reflectometer from Byk (micro-TRI-gloss 4446).

A drop-down card having 10 wt% pigment mixture was prepared as follows: the pigment mixture and nitrocellulose acrylate lacquer were mixed with a spatula and stirred with a mechanical stirrer at about 1000rpm for 10 minutes. Draw down cards (black/white) were coated using a spreader (mechanically driven) to form a wet film 500 μm thick and dried at 50 ℃ for 20 minutes and then allowed to dry overnight. The results are shown in Table 3.

TABLE 3

	Example 6	Example 7 (comparative example)
			60°	40.6	30.6
	40.9	30.6
				40.6	30.3
(average)	40.7	30.5

The pigment mixture of example 6 according to the invention showed a higher gloss than the pigment mixture of example 7 (comparative example).

Claims

1. A powder pigment composition consisting of component a comprising BiOCl flakes, component B comprising one or more effect pigments and optionally one or more absorption colorants, and component C comprising at least one ester oil or castor oil.

2. The powder pigment composition according to claim 1, consisting of 5 to 50% by weight of component A, 15 to 90% by weight of component B and 5 to 35% by weight of component C.

3. A powder pigment composition according to claim 1 or 2, consisting of 15 to 40% by weight of BiOCl flakes, 35 to 75% by weight of effect pigment and 10 to 25% by weight of at least one ester oil or castor oil.

4. The powder pigment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 3, consisting of 28 to 35% by weight of BiOCl flakes, 50 to 60% by weight of one or more effect pigments and 12 to 15% by weight of at least one ester oil or castor oil.

5. The powder pigment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, wherein the component B comprises effect pigments based on a substrate selected from natural or synthetic mica, clay, talc, kaolin, silica, glass, alumina, borosilicate, aluminosilicate and/or metal flakes.

6. The powder pigment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 5, wherein the BiOCl flakes are uncoated BiOCl flakes.

7. The powder pigment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 6, wherein the BiOCl flakes have a particle size <25 μm and a thickness <100 nm.

8. The powder pigment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 7, wherein the component C comprises an ester oil selected from a polar oil or a non-polar oil.

9. The powder pigment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 8, wherein the component C comprises ethylhexyl hydroxystearate or castor oil.

10. The process for the production of the powder pigment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 9, wherein component a, component B and component C are mixed.

11. The method according to claim 10, comprising the steps of:

1) pre-dispersing component A and component C,

2) adding the component B into the mixture prepared in the step 1),

3) all components were mixed.

12. Cosmetic preparation comprising a powder pigment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 9.

13. Cosmetic product comprising a powder pigment composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 9 or comprising a cosmetic preparation according to claim 12, selected from the group consisting of pressed powders, loose powders, pastes, ointments, salves, gels and sticks.

14. The cosmetic product according to claim 13, which is selected from the group consisting of pressed powders, loose powders, eye shadows, blushes, cosmetic powders, lip products, skin creams, sun protection compositions, hair care products, cosmetic sticks and pens, hair care products, hair dyes, nail care products, nail lacquers and nail polish products.

15. The cosmetic product according to claim 14, which is selected from the group consisting of pressed powders, loose powders, eye shadows, blushes and make-up powders for the face.