CN114727931B - Composition for caring for/making up keratin fibres - Google Patents

Composition for caring for/making up keratin fibres Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114727931B
CN114727931B CN201980102550.5A CN201980102550A CN114727931B CN 114727931 B CN114727931 B CN 114727931B CN 201980102550 A CN201980102550 A CN 201980102550A CN 114727931 B CN114727931 B CN 114727931B
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alkyl
acid
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CN114727931A (en
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王亦舟
周晓音
袁淑鸿
黄梦媛
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

A composition for care/make-up of keratin fibers is provided comprising: a) At least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I),wherein R is 1 、R 2 、R 3 And R is 4 Which may be the same or different, represent an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, r and s are integers ranging from about 2 to 20, and X "is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; b) At least one cellulose-based cationic polymer; c) At least one anionic direct dye; d) at least one cationic surfactant. Further provided is a cosmetic method for caring for keratin fibers, comprising at least the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers.

Description

Composition for caring for/making up keratin fibres
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a composition for caring for/making up keratin fibres. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratin fibres.
Background
There are a number of products available for altering the natural color of hair. Methods of changing the color of hair may involve depositing an artificial color onto the hair, which provides a different shade or color to the hair, or enhancing the color of the hair, for example, from a dark brown shade to a medium brown or light brown shade. Permanent, semi-permanent or temporary hair coloring products can be used to alter hair color.
Many consumers desire permanent color changes and therefore use products containing permanent dyes. Conventional permanent hair coloring products are dye compositions comprising an oxidative dye precursor, also known as a primary intermediate or coupler. These oxidative dye precursors are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with an oxidative product, produce colored complexes by oxidative condensation processes. The oxidation products conventionally use peroxides as oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide. Such permanent hair color products also contain ammonia or other alkalizing agents, such as Monoethanolamine (MEA), which causes the hair shaft to expand, allowing small oxidative dye molecules to penetrate the stratum corneum and cortex before the oxidative condensation process is completed. The larger-sized colored complex formed by the oxidation reaction is then trapped within the hair fibers, thereby permanently altering the color of the hair. New permanently colored hair typically has a viable, shiny and strong appearance.
However, within only a few weeks, or in some cases even less, the color starts to fade due to washing or exposure to environmental conditions. For example, a gorgeous, bright brown color becomes cloudy and a dull, beautiful gold tint becomes brass and a vivid red color no longer appears so vivid, resulting in a gold, orange or brown tint that is undesirable to consumers.
In addition, some consumers do not wish to damage their hair during hair colouring, and therefore they are willing to colour their hair in a fashion that is easy to fade.
Therefore, in order to improve color uptake or color performance, hair care compositions by means of the use of auxiliary cosmetics known as conditioning agents are often common.
Thus, there is a need to develop compositions that can achieve good color uptake and provide improved color performance.
Disclosure of Invention
It is therefore an object of the present invention to develop compositions which can lead to good color uptake and improved color performance.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic method for caring for/making up keratin fibres, which will lead to good colour uptake and improved colour properties.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for care/make-up keratin fibres, comprising:
a) At least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I):
wherein R is 1 、R 2 、R 3 And R is 4 Which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and
X - Is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;
b) At least one cellulose-based cationic polymer;
c) At least one anionic direct dye; and
d) At least one cationic surfactant.
According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin fibres, comprising the application to keratin fibres of a composition as described above.
The inventors have found that good uptake can be achieved by combining a), b) and c): a) at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of repeating units corresponding to formula (I), b) at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer, c) at least one anionic direct dye.
The inventors have also found that improved color performance can be achieved by combining b) and d): b) At least one cellulose-based cationic polymer, d) at least one cationic surfactant.
Thus, the composition according to the invention enables hair colouring with good colour uptake and improved colour properties to be obtained.
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good conditioning of keratin fibres without charging or aggravating the hair, while maintaining good quality of use (ease of application of the composition on the hair, ease of rinsing).
Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.
Detailed Description
As used herein, the limits of the range of values, particularly in the expressions "between … and …" and "from … to …", are included in the range unless otherwise indicated.
As used herein, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to include all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.
As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which there are no features other than the specifically mentioned features (i.e., "consisting of …").
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. The definitions set forth herein should be applied to when the definitions of terms in this description conflict with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which this invention pertains.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and the like used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters set forth herein are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties to be obtained as desired.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" as used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one(s)" or "a plurality" and may be substituted by it.
As used herein, the term "keratin fibers" includes animal keratin fibers and human keratin fibers such as hair, particularly hair.
As used herein, the term "color uptake" is used to assess whether a composition to be tested can stain keratin fibers.
As used herein, the term "color performance" is used to evaluate whether the color of the keratin fibers is desired after application of the composition to be tested and can be maintained after several shampoo washes.
According to a first aspect of the invention, a composition for caring for/making up keratin fibres comprises:
a) At least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I):
wherein the method comprises the steps of
R 1 、R 2 、R 3 And R is 4 Which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and
X - is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;
b) At least one cellulose-based cationic polymer;
c) At least one anionic direct dye; and
d) At least one cationic surfactant.
Quaternary diammonium polycondensates
According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition comprises at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I):
wherein the method comprises the steps of
R 1 、R 2 、R 3 And R is 4 May be the same or different, a tableAn alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and
X - is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.
Preferably, in formula (I):
R 1 、R 2 、R 3 and R is 4 Which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 10, and
X - is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.
More preferably, in formula (I):
R 1 、R 2 、R 3 and R is 4 Which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 8, and
X - is a halide ion such as chloride or bromide.
Particularly preferred are those wherein R 1 、R 2 、R 3 And R is 4 Compounds of formula (I) representing a methyl group and r=3, s=6 and x=cl are referred to as hexamethylenediammonium chloride in INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
Advantageously, the at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I) is present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cellulose-based cationic polymers
According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition comprises at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer.
The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, preferably non-silicon polymers.
Among the cellulose-based cationic polymers, mention may be made in particular of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, as well as cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers.
Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups (INCI name polyquaternium-10) are described in french patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of POLYMERs sold by AMERCHOL company under the names "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR) 400, LR 30M). These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary amines of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have been reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl cellulose, in particular grafted with methacryloylethyl trimethyl ammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium salt or dimethyldiallyl ammonium salt, are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576.
A cationic cellulose copolymer that may be particularly mentioned is polyquaternium-4, which is a copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
Associative celluloses (associative cellulose) can also be mentioned, e.g. with C 8 -C 30 Fatty chain quaternized alkylhydroxyethyl cellulose, for example Quatrisoft LM 200, a product sold by Amerchol/Dow Chemical company(INCI name is Polyquaternium-24) and Crodacel QM, a product sold by Croda company>(INCI name PG-hydroxyethyl cellulose cocodimethyl ammonium chloride), crodacel QL +.>(C 12 Alkyl) (INCI name PG-hydroxyethyl cellulose lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride) and Crodacel QS +.>(C 18 Alkyl) (INCI name PG-hydroxyethyl cellulose stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride).
Other fatty chain hydroxyethylcellulose derivatives may also be mentioned, for example commercial product Softcat Polymer SL from Amerchol/Dow chemical company under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67 Such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5.
The weight average molecular weight of the polymer, as measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 g to 3 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 to 1000 g/mol, and more particularly from 100 to 500 000 g/mol.
The cationic charge density of these polymers may vary from 2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g, and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cellulose-based cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67 and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the weight ratio of the at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate to the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is comprised between 1 and 5, and preferably between 1 and 4.
Anionic direct dyes
According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition comprises at least one anionic direct dye.
Anionic direct dyes are dyes that are commonly referred to as "acidic" direct dyes due to their affinity for basic substances. The term "anionic direct dye" is understood to mean that at least one CO is contained in its structure 2 R or SO 3 Any direct dye of substituents R, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a cation derived from a metal or from an amine or ammonium ion. The anionic dye may be selected from the group consisting of acidic nitrodirect dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azine dyes, acidic triarylmethane dyes, acidic indoleamine (indoamine) dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes.
As acid dyes according to the invention, mention may be made of the dyes of the following formulae (II), (II '), (III'), (IV '), (V'), (VI), (VII), (VIII) and (IX):
a) Diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (II) or (II'):
in formulae (II) and (II'):
R 7 、R 8 、R 9 、R 10 、R' 7 、R' 8 、R' 9 and R'. 10 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a group selected from:
an alkyl group;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxy, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
R-C (X) -X '-, R-X' -C (X) -, R-X '-C (X) -X "-, wherein R DEG represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group or an aryl group, and X, X' and X" are the same or different and represent an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or NR, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(O) 2 S(O - )- M + Wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
(O)CO - - M + wherein M is + As defined above;
R"-S(O) 2 -wherein R "represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an aryl group, (di) (alkyl) amino group or an aryl (alkyl) amino group; preferably a phenylaminogroup or a phenyl group;
R"'-S(O) 2 -X ' -, wherein R ' "represents an optionally substituted aryl group or an alkyl group and X ' is as defined above;
(di) (alkyl) amino;
aryl (alkyl) amino optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from: i) A nitro group; ii) a nitroso group; iii) (O) 2 S(O - )- M + And iv) alkoxy, wherein M + As defined above;
optionally substituted heteroaryl, preferably benzothiazolyl groups;
cycloalkyl groups, in particular cyclohexyl groups,
ar-n=n-, wherein Ar represents an optionally substituted aryl group, preferably optionally consisting of one or more alkyl groups, (O) 2 S(O - )- M + Or phenyl substituted with a phenylaminogroup;
or then two adjacent radicals R 7 And R is 8 Or R is 8 And R is 9 Or R is 9 And R is 10 Together forming a fused benzo group a'; and R 'is' 7 And R'. 8 Or R's' 8 And R'. 9 Or R's' 9 And R'. 10 Together forming a fused benzo group B'; wherein a 'and B' are optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from: i) A nitro group; ii) a nitroso group; iii) (O) 2 S(O - )- M + The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di) (alkyl) amino; vii) R-C (X) -X' -; viii) R-X' -C (X) -; ix) R-X' -C (X) -X "-; x) Ar-n=n-and xi) optionally substituted aryl (alkyl) amino; wherein M is + R °, X, X', X "and Ar are as defined above;
w represents a sigma bond, an oxygen or sulfur atom or a divalent group: i) -NR-, wherein R is as defined above, or ii) methylene-C (R a )(R b ) -, wherein R is a And R is b Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or R a And R is b Together with the carbon atom carrying them form a spirocycloalkyl group; preferably, W represents a sulfur atom or R a And R is b Together forming a cyclohexyl group;
it will be appreciated that formulas (II) and (II ') contain at least one sulfonate group (O) on one of the A ring, the A ' ring, the B ' ring or the C ring 2 S(O - )- M + Or a carboxylate group (O) CO - - M + Sodium sulfonate is preferred.
As examples of dyes of formula (II), mention may be made of: acid red 1, acid red 4, acid red 13, acid red 14, acid red 18, acid red 27, acid red 28, acid red 32, acid red 33, acid red 35, acid red 37, acid red 40, acid red 41, acid red 42, acid red 44, pigment red 57, acid red 68, acid red 73, acid red 135, acid red 138, acid red 184, fuchsin 1, food red 13, acid orange 6, acid orange 7, acid orange 10, acid orange 19, acid orange 20, acid orange 24, yellow 6, acid yellow 9, acid yellow 36, acid yellow 199, food yellow 3, acid violet 7, acid violet 14, acid blue 113, acid blue 117, acid black 1, acid brown 4, acid brown 20, acid black 26, acid black 52, food black 1, food black 2; food yellow 3 or sunset yellow;
And as examples of dyes of formula (II'), mention may be made of: acid red 111, acid red 134, acid yellow 38.
b) Pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of the formulae (III) and (III'):
in formulae (III) and (III):
R 11 、R 12 and R is 13 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom or an alkyl group or- (O) 2 S(O - ) M + A group, wherein M + As defined above;
R 14 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or-C (O) O - M + A group, wherein M + As defined above;
R 15 represents a hydrogen atom;
at R' 16 R in the absence of 16 Represents oxo groups, or then R 15 And R is R 16 Together forming a double bond;
R 17 and R is 18 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a group selected from:
(O) 2 S(O - )- M + wherein M is + As defined above;
Ar-O-S(O) 2 -wherein Ar represents an optionally substituted aryl group, preferably phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;
R 19 and R is 20 Together forming a double bond or an optionally substituted benzo group D';
R' 16 、R' 19 and R'. 20 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy group;
R 21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;
R a and R is b Are identical or different, as defined above, preferably R a Represents a hydrogen atom and R b Represents an aryl group;
y represents a hydroxyl group or an oxo group;
When Y is an oxo group, +.>Represents a single bond, and when Y represents a hydroxyl group, < + >>Represents a double bond;
it will be appreciated that formulae (III) and (III') contain at least one sulfonate group (O) on the D or E ring 2 S(O - )- M + Or a carboxylate group-C (O) O - M + Sodium sulfonate is preferred.
As examples of dyes of formula (III), mention may be made of: acid red 195, acid yellow 23, acid yellow 27, acid yellow 76, as examples of dyes of (III'), there may be mentioned: acid yellow 17.
c) Anthraquinone dyes of the formulae (IV) and (IV'):
in formulae (IV) and (IV'):
R 22 、R 23 、R 24 、R 25 、R 26 and R is 27 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom or a group selected from the group consisting of:
an alkyl group;
hydroxy, mercapto;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferably consisting of one or more groups selected from alkyl and (O) 2 S(O - )- M + Wherein M is substituted with a group of + As defined above;
optionally from one or more groups selected from alkyl groups and (O) 2 S(O - )- M + Aryl (alkane) substituted with groups (A)Radical) amino group, wherein M + As defined above;
(di) (alkyl) amino;
(di) (hydroxyalkyl) amino;
(O) 2 S(O - )- M + wherein M is + As defined above;
z' represents a hydrogen atom or NR 28 R 29 A group, wherein R is 28 And R is 29 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a group selected from:
An alkyl group;
polyhydroxyalkyl groups such as hydroxyethyl;
aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, in particular the groups are: i) Alkyl groups such as methyl, n-dodecyl or n-butyl; ii) (O) 2 S(O - )- M + Wherein M is + As defined above; iii) R-C (X) -X '-, R-X' -C (X) -or R-X '-C (X) -X "-, wherein R DEG X, X' and X '' are as defined above, preferably R DEG represents an alkyl group;
cycloalkyl, in particular cyclohexyl;
z represents a member selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl and NR' 28 R' 29 Wherein R 'is a group of' 28 And R'. 29 Is the same or different and represents R as defined above 28 And R is 29 The same atom or group;
it will be appreciated that formulas (IV) and (IV') contain at least one sulfonate group (O) 2 S(O - )- M + Or a carboxylate group-C (O) O - M + Sodium sulfonate is preferred;
as examples of dyes of formula (IV), mention may be made of: acid blue 25, acid blue 43, acid blue 62, acid blue 78, acid blue 129, acid blue 138, acid blue 140, acid blue 251, acid green 25, acid green 41, acid violet 42, acid violet 43, mordant red 3; EXT purple 2;
and as examples of dyes of formula (IV'), mention may be made of: acid black 48.
d) Nitrodyes of the formulae (V) and (V'):
in formulae (V) and (V'):
R 30 、R 31 and R is 32 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom or a group selected from the group consisting of:
an alkyl group;
an alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, an alkylthio group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
hydroxy, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
polyhaloalkyl;
R-C (X) -X ' -, R-X ' -C (X) -or R-X ' -C (X) -X ' -, wherein R, X, X ' and X ' ' are as defined above;
(O) 2 S(O - )- M + wherein M is + As defined above;
(O)CO - - M + wherein M is + As defined above;
(di) (alkyl) amino;
(di) (hydroxyalkyl) amino;
heterocycloalkyl, such as piperidino, piperazino, or morpholino;
in particular, R 30 、R 31 And R is 32 Represents a hydrogen atom;
R c and R is d Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
w is as defined above, W particularly represents an-NH-group;
ALK represents a divalent, linear or branched C 1 -C 6 Alkylene groups, in particular ALK represents-CH 2 -CH 2 -a group;
n has a value of 1 or 2;
p represents an integer between 1 and 5 (inclusive);
q represents an integer between 1 and 4 (inclusive);
u has a value of 0 or 1;
when the value of n is 1J represents a nitro group or a nitroso group, in particular a nitro group;
when n has a value of 2, J represents an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or a divalent group-S (O) m -, where m represents an integer 1 or 2, preferably J represents-SO 2 -a group;
m' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
presence or absence, optionally represented by one or more R as defined above 30 A group-substituted benzo group;
it will be appreciated that formulae (V) and (V') comprise at least one sulfonate group (O) 2 S(O - )- M + Or a carboxylate group-C (O) O - M + Sodium sulfonate is preferred.
As examples of dyes of formula (V), mention may be made of: acid brown 13; acid orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (V'), mention may be made of: sodium salt of acid yellow 1, 2, 4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, sodium salt of 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt of 2- (4 '-N, N- (2 "-hydroxyethyl) amino-2' -nitro) phenylethanesulfonic acid or sodium salt of 4- (. Beta. -hydroxyethylamino) -3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, EXT D & C yellow 7;
e) Triarylmethane dyes of formula (VI):
in formula (VI):
R 33 、R 34 、R 35 and R is 36 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a group selected from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl, in particular an alkyl group and optionally substituted aryl (O) m S(O - )- M + A group-substituted benzyl group, wherein M + And m is as defined above;
R 37 、R 38 、R 39 、R 40 、R 41 、R 42 、R 43 and R is 44 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a group selected from:
An alkyl group;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
(di) (alkyl) amino;
hydroxy, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
R-C (X) -X ' -, R-X ' -C (X) -or R-X ' -C (X) -X "-, wherein R-represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group orAn aryl group, and X, X' and x″ are the same or different and represent an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or NR, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(O) 2 S(O - )- M + wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
(O)CO - - M + wherein M is + As defined above;
or then two adjacent radicals R 41 And R is 42 Or R is 42 And R is 43 Or R is 43 And R is 44 Together forming a fused benzo group: i ', wherein I' is optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from: i) A nitro group; ii) a nitroso group; iii) (O) 2 S(O - )- M + The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di) (alkyl) amino; vii) R-C (X) -X' -; viii) R-X' -C (X) -; ix) R-X' -C (X) -X "-; wherein M is + R °, X, X' and X "are as defined above;
in particular, R 37 To R 40 Represents a hydrogen atom, and R 41 To R 44 Are identical or different and represent hydroxy or (O) 2 S(O - )- M + A group; and when R is 43 And R is R 44 When together forming a benzo group, it is preferably composed of (O) 2 S(O - ) -group substitution;
it is understood that at least one of the G ring, H ring, I ring or I' ring contains at least one sulfonate group (O) 2 S(O - ) -or a carboxylate group-C (O) O - Sulfonate groups are preferred.
As examples of dyes of formula (VI), mention may be made of: acid blue 1, acid blue 3, acid blue 7, acid blue 9, acid violet 49, acid green 3; acid green 5; acid green 50.
f) Xanthene-derived dyes of formula (VII):
in formula (VII):
R 45 、R 46 、R 47 and R is 48 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;
R 49 、R 50 、R 51 and R is 52 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom or a group selected from the group consisting of:
an alkyl group;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxy, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
(O) 2 S(O - )- M + wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
(O)CO - - M + wherein M is + As defined above;
in particular, R 53 、R 54 、R 55 And R is 48 Represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;
g represents an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or NR e A group, wherein R is e Represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, in particular, G represents an oxygen atom;
l represents alkoxide O - M + Mercaptides S - M + Or NR (NR) f A group, wherein R is f Represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M + As defined above, in particular M + Sodium or potassium;
l' represents an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or an ammonium group: n (N) + R f R g Wherein R is f And R is g Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl or alkyl group, in particular L' represents an oxygen atom or is optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O) m S(O - )- M + A group-substituted phenylaminogroup wherein M and M + As defined above;
q and Q 'are the same or different and represent an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom, and in particular, Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
M + as defined above.
As examples of dyes of formula (VII), mention may be made of: acid yellow 73, acid red 51, acid red 52, acid red 87, acid red 92, acid red 95, acid violet 9.
g) Indole-derived dyes of formula (VIII):
in formula (VIII):
R 53 、R 54 、R 55 、R 56 、R 57 、R 58 、R 59 and R is 60 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a group selected from:
an alkyl group;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxy, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
R-C (X) -X '-, R-X' -C (X) -or R-X '-C (X) -X "-, wherein R DEG represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group, and X, X' and X" are the same or differentAnd, similarly, represents an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or NR, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(O) 2 S(O - )- M + wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
(O)CO - - M + wherein M is + As defined above;
g represents an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or NR e A group, wherein R is e Represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, in particular, G represents an oxygen atom;
R i and R is h Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
It will be appreciated that formula (a-VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate group (O) 2 S(O - )- M + Or a carboxylate group-C (O) O - M + Sodium sulfonate is preferred.
As examples of dyes of (VIII), mention may be made of: acid blue 74.
h) Quinoline-derived dyes of formula (IX):
in formula (IX):
R 61 represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom or an alkyl group;
R 62 、R 63 and R is 64 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or (O) 2 S(O - )- M + A group, wherein M + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
or then R 61 And R is 62 Or R is 61 And R is 64 Together form a benzo group, the benzo group optionally consisting of one or more (O) 2 S(O - )- M + Group substitution, wherein M + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; />
It will be appreciated that formula (IX) contains at least one sulfonate group (O) 2 S(O - )- M + Sodium sulfonate is preferred.
As examples of dyes of formula (IX) there may be mentioned: acid yellow 2, acid yellow 3, and acid yellow 5.
More particularly, the dyes of formulae (II) to (VII) used in the present invention are selected from:
(C.I. 45380) acid red 87 (VII)
(C.I. 10316) Sodium salt of 2, 4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid (V')
(C.I. 10383) Acid orange 3 (V)
(C.I. 13015) Acid yellow 9/food yellow 2 (II)
(C.I. 14780) Direct red 45/food red 13 (II)
(C.I. 13711) Acid black 52 (II)
(C.I. 13065) Acid yellow 36 (II)
(C.I. 14700) Sodium salt of 1-hydroxy-2- (5 ' -sulfonate-2 ',4' -xylylazo) -naphthalene-4-sulfonic acid/food fuchsin 1 (II)
(C.I. 14720) Acid Red 14/food Red 3/mordant blue 79 (II)
(C.I. 14805) 4-hydroxy-3- [ (2-methoxy-5-nitrophenyl) diaza]-6- (phenylamino) naphthalene-2-sulfonic acid sodium salt/acid palm 4 (II)
(C.I. 15510) Acid orange 7/pigment orange 17/solvent orange 49 (II)
(C.I. 15985) Food yellow 3/pigment yellow 104 (II)
(C.I. 16185) Acid Red 27/food Red 9 (II)
(C.I. 16230) Acid orange 10/food orange 4 (II)
(C.I. 16250) Acid red 44 (II)
(C.I. 17200) Acid Red 33/food Red 12 (II)
(C.I. 15685) Acid red 184 (II)
(C.I. 19125) Acid violet 3 (II)
(C.I. 18055) Sodium salt of 1-hydroxy 2- (4' - (acetamido) phenylazo) -8-acetamido naphthalene-3, 6-disulfonic acid/acid violet 7/food fuchsin 11 (II)
(C.I. 18130) Acid red 135 (II)
(C.I. 19130) Acid yellow 27 (III)
(C.I. 19140) Acid yellow 23/food yellow 4 (III)
(C.I. 20170) 4' - (sulfonate-2 ' ',4' ' -dimethyl) bis (2, 6-phenylazo) -1, 3-dihydroxybenzene/acid orange 24 (II)
(C.I. 20470) 1-amino-2-Sodium salt of 4' -nitrophenylazo) -7-phenylazo-8-hydroxynaphthalene-3, 6-disulfonic acid/acid black 1 (II)
(C.I. 23266) (4- ((4-methylphenyl) sulfonyloxy) phenylazo) -2,2 '-dimethyl-4- ((2-hydroxy-5, 8-disulfonate) naphthylazo) biphenyl/acid Red 111 (II')
(C.I. 27755) Food black 2 (II)
(C.I. 25440) 1- (4' -sulfonylphenylazo) -4- ((2 "-hydroxy-3" -acetamido-6 ",8" -disulfonate) naphthylazo) -6-sulfonylnaphthalene (tetrasodium salt)/food black 1 (II)
(C.I. 42090) Acid blue 9 (VI)
(C.I. 60730) Acid violet 43 (IV)
(C.I. 61570) Acid green 25 (IV)
(C.I. 45100) Acid red 52 (VII)
(C.I. 62045) Sodium salt of 1-amino-4-cyclohexylamino-9, 10-anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid/acid blue 62 (IV)
(C.I. 62105) Acid blue 78 (IV)
(C.I. 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3- ((2-methoxyphenyl) azo) -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid/acid red 4 (II)
2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid (V')
2- (4 ' -N, N- (2 "-hydroxyethyl) amino-2 ' -nitro) phenylethanesulfonic acid (V ')
4- (. Beta. -hydroxyethylamino) -3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid (V')
(C.I. 42640) Acid violet 49 (VI)
(C.I. 42080) Acid blue 7 (VI)
(C.I. 58005) Sodium salt of 1, 2-dihydroxy-3-sulfoanthraquinone/mordant red 3 (IV)
(C.I. 62055) Sodium salt of 1-amino-9, 10-dihydro-9, 10-dioxo-4- (phenylamino) -2-anthracenesulfonic acid/acid blue 25 (IV)
(C.I. 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3- ((2-methoxyphenyl) azo) -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid/acid red 4 (II)
Most of these dyes are described in particular in Colour Index published by the uk institute of dyers (The Society of Dyers and Colourists), p.o. Box 244, perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, bradford, yorkshire, BD1 2JB, england.
Preferably, the anionic direct dye is selected from anthraquinone dyes of formula (IV), triarylmethane dyes of formula (VI), xanthene-derived dyes of formula (VII), and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises one or more anionic direct dyes selected from the group consisting of acid violet 43, EXT violet 2, acid blue 1, acid blue 9, acid red 52, mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the at least one anionic direct dye is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic surfactants
According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition comprises at least one cationic surfactant.
The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is included in a composition according to the invention. In the composition according to the invention, the surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functional groups.
The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from quaternary ammonium salts.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be particularly mentioned include:
quaternary ammonium salts of the general formula (X)
Wherein the method comprises the steps of
R 8 To R 11 May be the same or different and represents a straight chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atomsChain or branched aliphatic radical, it being understood that the radical R 8 To R 11 Comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and is also provided with
X - Represents an organic anionic counterion or an inorganic anionic counterion, for example selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfate, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfonates or (C) 1 -C 4 ) Those of alkylaryl sulfonates.
Aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogen, among others. The aliphatic groups being selected from, for example, C 1 -C 30 Alkyl group, C 1 -C 30 Alkoxy groups, polyox (C) 2 -C 6 ) Alkylene group, C 1 -C 30 Alkylamido groups, (C) 12 -C 22 ) Alkylamide group (C) 2 -C 6 ) Alkyl group, acetic acid (C) 12 -C 22 ) Alkyl ester group and C 1 -C 30 A hydroxyalkyl group; x is X - Is selected from halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfates and (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfonates or (C) 1 -C 4 ) An alkylaryl sulfonate anion.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preferred ones are on the one hand tetraalkylammonium salts, such as: dialkyl dimethyl ammonium salts or alkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, wherein the alkyl group contains from about 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyl trimethyl ammonium salt, distearyl dimethyl ammonium salt, cetyl trimethyl ammonium salt or benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium salt, or on the other hand palmitoyl propyl trimethyl ammonium salt, stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetylstearyl ammonium salt or Ceraphenyl by Van Dyk company70 stearamidopropyl dimethyl (tetradecyl acetate) ammonium salt is sold. Chlorination using these compounds is particularly preferred A salt;
di-or tri-quaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (XI)
Wherein R is 16 Represents an alkyl group containing from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 Selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and (R) 16a )(R 17a )(R 18a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 A group R 16a 、R 17a 、R 18a 、R 18 、R 19 、R 20 And R is 21 May be the same or different, is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X - Is an anion selected from the group consisting of halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, and methyl sulfate.
Such compounds, for example Finquat CT-P, are available from Finetex corporation (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT is available from Finetex corporation (Quaternium 75).
Preferably, the cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X) and mixtures thereof.
Still more preferably, the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the at least one cationic surfactant is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, more preferably the cationic surfactant is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium salt, behenyl trimethylammonium salt and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from behenyl trimethylammonium chloride or behenyl trimethylammonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof, even more preferably the total content of cationic surfactants represents from 0.1 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt%, even more preferably from 1 to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the weight ratio of the at least one cationic surfactant to the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is between 1 and 5, and preferably between 2 and 4.
Dimethyl sulfone and ethyl hydroxy pyrone
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises at least dimethyl sulfone and/or at least ethyl hydroxy pyrone as penetration enhancer.
Ethyl hydroxypyrone may also be named 2-ethyl-3 hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one or ethyl maltol.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least dimethyl sulfone and at least ethyl hydroxy pyrone.
Advantageously, the total content of dimethyl sulfone and ethyl hydroxypyrone represents from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty substances
According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition may optionally further comprise one or more fatty substances.
According to the invention, the fatty substances optionally present in the composition are non-silicones (excluding silicon atoms).
The term "fatty substance" means a fatty substance which is produced at normal temperature (25 ℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, 1.013X10) 5 Pa), that is to say that it has a solubility of less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.1%.
The fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid paraffin or decamethylcyclopentylsiloxane, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure.
The fatty substances which can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not comprise carboxylic acid functions COOH.
Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.
The term "fatty alcohol" means a non-glycerinated and non-oxidative alkylenated fatty alcohol, preferably at ambient temperature (25 ℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013X10 5 Pa) is liquid.
Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the present invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
The fatty alcohols of the present invention may be saturated or unsaturated. Saturated fatty alcohols are preferred.
More particularly, the saturated fatty alcohols of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol and cetostearyl alcohol.
Cetostearyl alcohol is particularly preferred.
By fatty esters is meant esters derived from fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols.
The esters are preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic C 1 -C 26 Mono-or polyacids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic C 1 -C 26 Esters of monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl pivalate and isostearyl pivalate.
C can also be used 4 -C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 -C 22 Esters of alcohols and mono-, di-, tri-, or tri-carboxylic acids and dihydroxylated, tri-, tetra-or penta-hydroxylated C 4 -C 26 Esters of non-sugar alcohols.
Mention may be made in particular of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, di (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, tri-oleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
The esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri-and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, tetradecanoates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates and mixtures thereof, such as oleic-palmitates, oleic-stearates and palmitic-stearates mixed esters.
By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold by the company Croda under the name CRODAMOL MS-PA- (SG), which is a cetyl ester mixture.
Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from fatty alcohols and fatty esters as previously described and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, when fatty substances are present in the composition, the total content of fatty substances represents from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better still from 1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Medium (D)
The composition may comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium. The cosmetically acceptable medium that may be used in the compositions of this invention may include water, one or more organic solvents, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous.
As examples of organic solvents, use may in particular be made of those at 25℃and in particular 1.013X10 5 Liquid at Pa, especially water-soluble organic solvents, e.g. C 1 -C 7 Alcohols and in particular C 1 -C 7 Aliphatic or aromatic monohydric alcohol, C 3 -C 7 Polyols and C 3 -C 7 Esters of polyols, which can therefore be used alone or in admixture with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent may be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the cosmetically acceptable medium is present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, and still better from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additive agent
The composition according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic additives such as thickeners (e.g. hydroxyethylcellulose), preservatives (e.g. phenoxyethanol and salicylic acid), fragrances, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric polymers, pearlescers, pH regulators.
Those skilled in the art will note that these optional additives and their amounts are selected so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the composition according to this invention.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) From 0.8 to 5% by weight of at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I):
wherein R is 1 、R 2 、R 3 And R is 4 Which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 8, and
X - is a halide ion such as chloride or bromide;
b) From 0.5 to 2% by weight of at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67 and mixtures thereof;
c) From 0.5 to 3 wt% of at least one anionic direct dye selected from acid violet 43, EXT violet 2, acid blue 1, acid blue 9, acid red 52, mixtures thereof; and
d) From 1 to 5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or behenyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or cetyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
The inventors have found that the composition according to the above preferred embodiments shows an optimal combination of good color uptake and color performance.
Galenic form and use
The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, lotion or emulsion.
The use of the composition may be on wet or dry hair, with or without rinse mode.
According to a second aspect of the invention, a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin fibres comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition as described above.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the rinsing of the keratin fibres is carried out after the application of the composition according to the invention to the keratin fibres.
In the method according to the invention, a step of drying keratin fibres may be provided, in particular by means of a heating means, such as a blower, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating helmet; the heating means can heat at a temperature from 150 ℃ to 230 ℃, preferably from 200 ℃ to 220 ℃.
The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope.
Examples
Example 1: preparation of Conditioning Agents
Conditioning agents according to the invention (inv.) 1-4 and comparative conditioning agents (comp.) 1-5 were prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as weight percent of active material relative to the total weight of each conditioning agent):
preparation scheme
The conditioner is prepared according to the following steps:
1. introducing water, PQ-67/PQ-10 (if present), hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxypyrone, dimethyl sulfone into a beaker to obtain an aqueous phase;
2. introducing glycerol and behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride into the aqueous phase;
3. adding cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl ester, salicylic acid to the aqueous phase to obtain a mixture, and emulsifying the mixture at 65 ℃ to obtain an emulsion;
4. phenoxyethanol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, dye, and hexamethylenediamine (if present) chloride were introduced into the emulsion.
Example 2: evaluation of Conditioning Agents
The color uptake and color performance of the conditioner prepared in example 1 was evaluated as follows:
step 1: 0.4g of shampoo was applied to 1g of the pigmented hair sample, and then the shampoo was rinsed off;
step 2: applying 0.4g of the conditioner to be evaluated to 1g of the pigmented hair sample, then rinsing the conditioner off, blow-drying the hair sample, and then evaluating the color uptake;
Step 3: repeating steps 1 and 2 four times to view color performance;
the score for each test is given according to the following criteria.
5: excellent;
4: good;
3: acceptable;
2: poor;
1: no visible effect was observed.
The results for each conditioner are summarized in the table below.
Inv.1 Inv.2 Inv.3 Inv.4 Comp.1 Comp.2 Comp.3 Comp.4 Comp.5
Color uptake 5 5 5 2 1 1 1 1 1
Color Properties 5 5 5 3 2 2 2 2 2
As can be seen from the above table, the compositions according to the invention (inv.1-4) exhibit excellent color uptake and color properties.
It was also found that the compositions according to the invention (inv.1-4) enable good conditioning of keratin fibres to be obtained without charging or aggravating the hair, while maintaining good quality of use (easy application of conditioning agent on the hair and easy rinsing).

Claims (31)

1. A composition for care/make-up of keratin fibres, comprising:
a) At least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I):
wherein R is 1 、R 2 、R 3 And R is 4 Which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X - Is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;
b) At least one cellulose-based cationic polymer selected from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers;
c) At least one anionic direct dye; and
d) At least one cationic surfactant selected from
■ Quaternary ammonium salts of the general formula (X)
Wherein R is 8 To R 11 Which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, where the radicals R 8 To R 11 Comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
and X is - Represents an organic anionic counterion or an inorganic anionic counterion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfate, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfonates or (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl aryl sulfonate; and
-di-or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XI)
Wherein R is 16 Represents an alkyl group containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 Selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and (R) 16a )(R 17a )(R 18a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 A group R 16a 、R 17a 、R 18a 、R 18 、R 19 、R 20 And R is 21 May be the same or different, is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X - Is an anion selected from the group consisting of halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, and methyl sulfate.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein
In formula (I):
R 1 、R 2 、R 3 and R is 4 May be the same or different And, as such, represents an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 8, and
X - is a halide ion.
3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the quaternary diammonium polycondensate is hexamethylenediamine chloride.
4. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 0.8% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.
8. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 to 3 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one anionic direct dye is selected from anthraquinone dyes of the following formula (IV), triarylmethane dyes of the following formula (VI), xanthene-derived dyes of the following formula (VII), and mixtures thereof:
in formula (IV):
■R 22 、R 23 、R 24 、R 25 、R 26 and R is 27 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom or a group selected from the group consisting of:
-an alkyl group;
-hydroxy, mercapto;
-an alkoxy group, an alkylthio group;
-optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, the substituents being one or more groups selected from alkyl and (O) 2 S(O - )-M + Wherein M is a group of + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
optionally consisting of one or more groups chosen from alkyl groups and (O) 2 S(O - )-M + A group-substituted arylalkylamino group of (2), wherein M + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
-a dialkylamino group;
-dihydroxyalkylamino;
-(O) 2 S(O - )-M + wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
■ Z' represents a hydrogen atom or NR 28 R 29 A group, wherein R is 28 And R is 29 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a group selected from:
-an alkyl group;
-a polyhydroxyalkyl group;
-aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups: i) Alkyl, selected from methyl, n-dodecyl or n-butyl; ii) (O) 2 S(O - )-M + Wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; iii) R-C (X) -X '-, R-X' -C (X) -or R-X '-C (X) -X "-, wherein R DEG represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group or an aryl group, and X, X' and X" are the same or different and represent an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or NR, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
-cycloalkyl;
■ Z represents a member selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl and NR' 28 R' 29 Wherein R 'is a group of' 28 And R'. 29 Is the same or different and represents R as defined above 28 And R is 29 The same atom or group;
wherein formula (IV) comprises at least one sulfonate group (O) 2 S(O - )-M + ,M + Is Na (Na) +
In formula (VI):
■R 33 、R 34 、R 35 and R is 36 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or are selected from alkyl groups and optionally from (O) m S(O - )-M + A group-substituted benzyl group, wherein M + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter ion, and m represents 1 or 2;
■R 37 、R 38 、R 39 、R 40 、R 41 、R 42 、R 43 and R is 44 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a group selected from:
-an alkyl group;
-an alkoxy group, an alkylthio group;
-a dialkylamino group;
-hydroxy, mercapto;
-nitro, nitroso;
-R ° -C (X) -X '-, R ° -X' -C (X) -or R ° -X '-C (X) -X "-, wherein R ° represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group or an aryl group, and X, X' and X" are the same or different and represent an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or NR, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
-(O) 2 S(O - )-M + wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
-(O)CO - -M + wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
-or two adjacent radicals R 41 And R is 42 Or R is 42 And R is 43 Or R is 43 And R is 44 Together forming a fused benzo group: i ', wherein I' is optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from: i) A nitro group; ii) a nitroso group; iii) (O) 2 S(O - )-M + The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) a dialkylamino group; vii) R-C (X) -X' -; viii) R-X' -C (X) -; ix) R-X' -C (X) -X "-; wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion, R DEG X, X 'and X' being as defined above;
Wherein at least one of the G ring, H ring, I ring or I' ring comprises at least one sulfonate group (O) 2 S(O - ) -or a carboxylate group-C (O) O -
In formula (VII):
■R 45 、R 46 、R 47 and R is 48 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;
■R 49 、R 50 、R 51 and R is 52 Are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom or a group selected from the group consisting of:
-an alkyl group;
-an alkoxy group, an alkylthio group;
-hydroxy, mercapto;
-nitro, nitroso;
-(O) 2 S(O - )-M + wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
-(O)CO - -M + wherein M is + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
■ G represents an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom or NR e A group, wherein R is e Represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
■ L represents alkoxide O - M + Mercaptides S - M + Or NR (NR) f A group, wherein R is f Represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
■ L' represents an oxygen atom or optionally one or more alkyl groups or (O) m S(O - )-M + A group-substituted phenylaminogroup wherein M represents 1 or 2 and M + Represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
■ Q and Q' are the same or different and represent an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom;
■M + represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter ion.
12. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one anionic direct dye is selected from acid violet 43, EXT violet 2, acid blue 1, acid blue 9, acid red 52, mixtures thereof.
13. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one anionic direct dye is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one anionic direct dye is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 to 8 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one anionic direct dye is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 3 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cetyltrimethylammonium salt, behenyl trimethylammonium salt and mixtures thereof.
17. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or behenyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or cetyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate.
18. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt% to 8 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
20. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt% to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
21. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate to the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is between 1 and 5.
22. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate to the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is between 1 and 4.
23. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one cationic surfactant to the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is between 1 and 5.
24. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one cationic surfactant to the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is between 2 and 4.
25. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition further comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium comprising water, one or more organic solvents, or mixtures thereof.
26. The composition of claim 25, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is present in an amount ranging from 30 wt% to 90 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.
27. The composition of claim 25, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is present in an amount ranging from 50 wt% to 85 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.
28. The composition of claim 25, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is present in an amount ranging from 60 wt% to 85 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
29. The composition of claim 25, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is present in an amount ranging from 70 wt% to 85 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.
30. The composition of claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) From 0.8 to 5% by weight of at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (I):
Wherein R is 1 、R 2 、R 3 And R is 4 Which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 8, and
X - is a halide ion;
b) From 0.5 to 2% by weight of at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67 and mixtures thereof;
c) From 0.5 to 3 wt% of at least one anionic direct dye selected from acid violet 43, EXT violet 2, acid blue 1, acid blue 9, acid red 52, mixtures thereof; and
d) From 1% to 5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or behenyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or cetyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
31. Cosmetic process for caring for/making up keratin fibres, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 30.
CN201980102550.5A 2019-11-29 2019-11-29 Composition for caring for/making up keratin fibres Active CN114727931B (en)

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CN1847325A (en) * 2005-03-31 2006-10-18 莱雅公司 Dye composition with a reduced content of starting materials, and process for dyeing keratin fibres using the same
CN101530376A (en) * 2008-02-22 2009-09-16 莱雅公司 Use of particular cationic polymers as anti-oxidant or anti-radical agents
CN104066423A (en) * 2011-11-09 2014-09-24 欧莱雅 Compositions and methods for altering the appearance of hair

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3061005B1 (en) * 2016-12-22 2020-10-16 Oreal HAIR COLORING PROCESS USING ACID DYES INCLUDING A PRE-TREATMENT IMPLEMENTING A CATIONIC POLYMER

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CN1338250A (en) * 2000-08-11 2002-03-06 莱雅公司 Composition containing cationic amphiphic polymer, oxidized alkenylated or glycerinated fatty alcohol and hydroxylated solvent for oxidizing dyeing keration fibers
CN1847325A (en) * 2005-03-31 2006-10-18 莱雅公司 Dye composition with a reduced content of starting materials, and process for dyeing keratin fibres using the same
CN101530376A (en) * 2008-02-22 2009-09-16 莱雅公司 Use of particular cationic polymers as anti-oxidant or anti-radical agents
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