CN113842339A - 一种遮瑕膏及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种遮瑕膏及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113842339A CN113842339A CN202111258436.7A CN202111258436A CN113842339A CN 113842339 A CN113842339 A CN 113842339A CN 202111258436 A CN202111258436 A CN 202111258436A CN 113842339 A CN113842339 A CN 113842339A
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Abstract
本申请涉及化妆品技术领域,具体公开了一种遮瑕膏及其制备方法。遮瑕膏由包含以下原料制成:辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯、润肤剂Ⅰ、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯、白蜂蜡、润肤剂Ⅱ、着色剂、皮肤调理剂、硬脂酸、抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯和防腐剂;润肤剂Ⅰ包括聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚二甲基硅氧烷;皮肤调理剂包括皮肤调理剂Ⅰ和皮肤调理剂Ⅱ。本申请的遮瑕膏具有极好的滋润作用、具有极好的遮盖力,且质地清爽、贴合肌肤,妆感自然、舒适,不致痘,持久不易脱妆;且对皮肤无刺激,风险系数低,安全度高,可以放心使用。
Description
技术领域
本申请涉及化妆品技术领域,更具体地说,它涉及一种遮瑕膏及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着年龄的增长,人们脸上或多或少都会出现一些皮肤问题,例如:长痘、痘印、晒斑、雀斑等,此时,为了遮盖了这些皮肤表面的各类缺陷,就需要用各种彩妆产品对面部进行遮盖。现有的彩妆产品中,使用最多且最普遍的是粉底液和遮瑕膏,在脸上涂上粉底液后能遮盖皮肤本色,而使皮肤呈粉底液的颜色,但是对于痘印或斑点比较严重的人,粉底液的遮盖力不足以遮盖这些缺陷,所以,必须借助遮瑕膏,遮瑕膏可视作为粉底的一种,不同之处在于遮瑕膏比普通粉底具有更佳的遮盖力。
现有市面上的遮瑕膏品种多样,琳琅满目,有的能很好地遮盖明显的皱纹,有的能很好地遮盖痘疤或凹坑,有的能很好地遮盖色斑或局部晦暗,有的能很好地遮盖黑眼圈等。但是发明人发现,不管什么样的遮瑕膏,都存在一个问题,那就是不够滋润且容易脱妆,持妆性较差。
发明内容
为了提高遮瑕膏的滋润性和持妆效果,本申请提供一种遮瑕膏及其制备方法。
第一方面,本申请提供一种遮瑕膏,采用如下的技术方案:
一种遮瑕膏,由包含以下重量百分比的原料制成:
辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯17-21%、润肤剂Ⅰ9.5-13%、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯8-12%、白蜂蜡7-13%、润肤剂Ⅱ7.5-14.3%、着色剂9.95-15.5%、皮肤调理剂10.3-16%、硬脂酸(乳化剂)3-6%、抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯(抗氧化剂)0.5-1%和防腐剂0.5-1%;
所述润肤剂Ⅰ包括聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚二甲基硅氧烷;
所述皮肤调理剂包括皮肤调理剂Ⅰ和皮肤调理剂Ⅱ。
辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯有着高度的润肤作用,有着平滑、奶油状的感觉和长效的厚重感;润肤剂Ⅰ具有很好的润肤作用且能给予产品丝滑感;植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯可形成液态晶体薄膜,具有柔润的润肤作用;白蜂蜡具有很好的润肤作用且可调控产品的粘度。本申请中,辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯、润肤剂Ⅰ、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯和白蜂蜡相互配合制得的产品具有很好的润肤作用,能增加产品的黏度且使得产品润而不油,具有良好的绑定能力,持妆效果长久,此外,本申请的遮瑕膏能够滋养、柔软皮肤,不会闷痘,妆感舒适。
而抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯在体系中作用抗氧化剂,可以改善皮肤粗糙、苍白、松弛等现象,起到美皮肤白,维持皮肤弹性,减轻皱纹的作用,使得妆感更加自然。
本申请中,防腐剂采用苯氧乙醇和辛甘醇,进一步优选,苯氧乙醇与辛甘醇的质量比为(5-8):(2-5),最优选的,苯氧乙醇与辛甘醇的质量比为6.5:3.5。
首先苯氧乙醇和辛甘醇作为本申请的防腐剂、抗菌剂,比较安全,对孕妇一般没有影响,可放心使用;其次苯氧乙醇对细菌产生抑制,而对真菌的抑制较弱,当苯氧乙醇与辛甘醇复配使用时,体系具有广谱的抗菌效果,可增强体系的防腐能力,且辛甘醇能够起到保湿,柔润的作用,所以,苯氧乙醇与辛甘醇的复配使用,可以达到温和防腐的效果,本申请制得的遮瑕膏的保质期可达3.5-4年。
优选的,所述润肤剂Ⅰ为聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚二甲基硅氧烷;所述聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚二甲基硅氧烷的重量比为(1-2):(7-10),进一步优选为1.5:8.5。
通过采用上述技术方案,聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚二甲基硅氧烷按照特定比例配合,制得的润肤剂Ⅰ具有很好的润肤作用,且可赋予产品丝滑感。
优选的,所述润肤剂Ⅱ包括苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、棕榈酸乙基己酯、三山嵛精和三羟基硬脂精。进一步优选,所述苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷占遮瑕膏总量的3-5%;所述棕榈酸乙基己酯占遮瑕膏总量的2-4%;所述三山嵛精占遮瑕膏总量的1-3%;所述三羟基硬脂精占遮瑕膏总量的1.5-2.3%。最优选的,所述苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷占遮瑕膏总量的5%,所述棕榈酸乙基己酯占遮瑕膏总量的4%,所述三山嵛精占遮瑕膏总量的3%,所述三羟基硬脂精占遮瑕膏总量的2.3%。
苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷具有去泡、抗静电、降低表面张力的作用;棕榈酸乙基己酯的分子较小,易深入毛孔,能深度滋润肌肤;三山嵛精和三羟基硬脂精的主要作用是柔润剂,且比较安全,对孕妇没有影响,可放心使用。将润肤剂Ⅱ中的各成分按配方比例添加到本申请的体系中,润肤剂Ⅱ中的各成分相互配合,可以使产品深度滋润肌肤,且清爽好涂抹,易推开,不沾腻,不致痘。
优选的,所述着色剂包括着色剂Ⅰ、着色剂Ⅱ、着色剂Ⅲ和着色剂Ⅳ;所述着色剂Ⅰ包括CI 77891、三乙氧基辛基硅烷和氢氧化铝;所述着色剂Ⅱ包括CI 77491;所述着色剂Ⅲ包括CI 77499;所述着色剂Ⅳ包括CI 77492。进一步优选,所述着色剂Ⅰ占遮瑕膏总量的8-12%;所述着色剂Ⅱ占遮瑕膏总量的0.1-0.7%;所述着色剂Ⅲ占遮瑕膏总量的0.05-0.3%;所述着色剂Ⅳ占遮瑕膏总量的1.8-2.5%。最优选,所述着色剂Ⅰ占遮瑕膏总量的10%,所述着色剂Ⅱ占遮瑕膏总量的0.4%,所述着色剂Ⅲ占遮瑕膏总量的0.15%,所述着色剂Ⅳ占遮瑕膏总量的2.1%。
CI是着色剂的编号,CI 77891化学名二氧化钛,白色着色剂;CI 77492化学名黄色氧化铁,黄色着色剂;CI 77491,矿物色料,红色着色剂;CI 77499,黑色着色剂。本申请中,将白色、黄色、红色和黑色四种不同的着色剂按配方比例混合,制得的遮瑕膏的遮盖力强,可遮盖斑点、痘印、凹坑、细纹、黑眼圈等,可高度遮瑕。使用本申请的遮瑕膏,比普通的遮瑕膏更具有遮盖力,在脸上抹上薄薄的一层就能遮盖原有的缺陷,让脸部重现光滑细致,且更贴合肌肤,持久不脱妆。
优选的,所述CI 77891、三乙氧基辛基硅烷和氢氧化铝的质量比为(8-10):(0.05-0.1):(0.1-0.3)。进一步优选,所述CI 77891、三乙氧基辛基硅烷和氢氧化铝的质量比为9.6:0.1:0.3。
通过采用上述技术方案,三乙氧基辛基硅烷在体系中的作用是粘合剂和乳化剂,氢氧化铝的作用的是不透明剂。体系中将三乙氧基辛基硅烷、氢氧化铝与CI 77891、CI77492、CI 77491、CI 77499四种着色剂按照配方比例混合,可将四种不同的着色剂乳化后粘合在一起,混合均匀,可降低产品的透明度,且能防止颜色结块,改善其流动性,使其均匀涂抹,很好推开。
优选的,所述皮肤调理剂Ⅰ包括霍霍巴酯类、向日葵籽蜡、绿荆树花蜡和聚甘油-3;所述皮肤调理剂Ⅰ占遮瑕膏总量的0.8-1%,所述霍霍巴酯类、向日葵籽蜡、绿荆树花蜡和聚甘油-3的质量比为6:3.5:2.5:2.5;所述皮肤调理剂Ⅱ包括月桂酰赖氨酸和硅石,所以皮肤调理剂Ⅱ占遮瑕膏总量的9.5-15%,所述月桂酰赖氨酸占遮瑕膏总量的7.5-11%,所述硅石占遮瑕膏总量的2-4%。
霍霍巴酯类主要作用是柔润剂,不易被氧化,滋润作用比较长久;向日葵籽蜡具有润滑皮肤的作用,且能美白祛斑;绿荆树花蜡可持续柔软滋润肌肤,且具有树木的芬芳香气;聚甘油-3的主要作用是保湿剂且具有成膜性;月桂酰赖氨酸具有高润滑性、且摩擦系数低;硅石可作为摩擦剂或肤感调节剂。本申请中,霍霍巴酯类、向日葵籽蜡、绿荆树花蜡和聚甘油-3按配方比例相互配合,可持续长久的滋润肌肤,再配合以月桂酰赖氨酸和硅石,可调节体系的粉质,赋予产品良好延展性和贴肤感,可增强皮肤的顺滑度,使妆感自然、服帖、持久。
此外,硅石具有一定的遮瑕力,与本申请的四种着色剂相互配合,能降低遮瑕膏的透明度,增强遮瑕膏的遮盖能力,与此同时,对皮肤无刺激,安全度高。而向日葵籽蜡与抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯相互配合,能够起到抗炎、杀菌、促进皮肤创伤愈合的作用,且对酪氨酸酶具有一定的抑制作用,从而可美白祛斑。
第二方面,本申请提供一种遮瑕膏的制备方法,采用如下的技术方案:
一种遮瑕膏的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
将辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯、白蜂蜡、硬脂酸、润肤剂Ⅱ、皮肤调理剂Ⅰ、防腐剂、抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯加热溶解完全,冷却至半固体;随后将润肤剂Ⅰ加入搅拌均匀,最后加入皮肤调理剂Ⅱ和着色剂搅拌均匀,多次研磨,再加热溶解,冷却,即可制得遮瑕膏。
通过采用上述技术方案,在制备遮瑕膏时,按照特定的顺序添加各原料成分,可得到均质、稳定的遮瑕膏。本申请制得的遮瑕膏容易灌装。
综上所述,本申请具有以下有益效果:
1、本申请的遮瑕膏具有极好的滋润作用且滋润效果持续长久;
2、本申请的遮瑕膏具有极好的遮盖力,可让脸部重现光滑细致,且贴合肌肤,妆感自然,持久不易脱妆;
3、本申请制得的遮瑕膏质地清爽、妆感舒适,不致痘;
4、本申请的遮瑕膏对皮肤无刺激,安全度高,对于孕妇一般没有影响,可以放心使用。
具体实施方式
以下结合实施例对本申请作进一步详细说明。予以特别说明的是:以下实施例中未注明具体条件者,按照常规条件或制造商建议的条件进行;以下实施例中所用原料除特殊说明外均可来源于普通市售。
实施例
一种遮瑕膏的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
将辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯、白蜂蜡、硬脂酸、润肤剂Ⅱ(苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、棕榈酸乙基己酯、三山嵛精和三羟基硬脂精)、皮肤调理剂Ⅰ(霍霍巴酯类、向日葵籽蜡、绿荆树花蜡和聚甘油-3)、防腐剂(苯氧乙醇、辛甘醇)和抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯加热溶解完全,冷却至半固体;随后将润肤剂Ⅰ(霍霍巴酯类、向日葵籽蜡、绿荆树花蜡和聚甘油-3)加入搅拌均匀,最后加入皮肤调理剂Ⅱ(月桂酰赖氨酸、硅石)和着色剂(着色剂Ⅰ:CI 77891、三乙氧基辛基硅烷和氢氧化铝;着色剂Ⅱ:CI 77491;着色剂Ⅲ:CI 77499;着色剂Ⅳ:CI 77492)搅拌均匀,在三辊研磨机中研磨3遍,再加热溶解,冷却,即可制得遮瑕膏。
实施例1-8的不同仅在于,原料或用量的不同,制备工艺均一致。
实施例1-8中各原料的选择和占比具体见表1。
表1实施例1-8的原料表
对比例
对比例1-4
对比例1-4与实施例3的区别在于,遮瑕膏中,辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯、白蜂蜡和润肤剂Ⅰ(聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚二甲基硅氧烷润)的选择和用量不同,具体如下表2所示。
表2
性能检测试验随机选择18-40岁的健康女性36人,用同样的化妆笔在左胳膊内侧画黑线(右胳膊为空白对照),随后随机分为12个小组,每个小组使用一个试样遮盖黑线(完全遮盖黑线)。记录刚涂抹上试样时手上的肌肤感受以及2h、4h和8h后黑线是否能看见。
具体测试指标和评价指标如下表3所示,分值越高表示产品越好。
具体评价如下表4所示(表4中的数值为小组的平均值)。
表3
表4
结合实施例1-3和对比例1-3并结合表3-4可以看出,辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯、润肤剂Ⅰ、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯和白蜂蜡按本申请的配方比例相互配合,制得的产品具有很好的润肤作用,能够滋养和柔软皮肤。
结合实施例3-5并结合表3-4可以看出,苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、棕榈酸乙基己酯、三山嵛精和三羟基硬脂精按本申请的配方比例加入到遮瑕体系中,可增强产品的滋润度且清爽好涂抹,不沾腻,易推开。
结合实施例6-8并结合表3-4可以看出,将着色剂ⅠCI 77891、着色剂ⅡCI 77491、着色剂ⅢCI 77499和着色剂ⅣCI 77492按照本申请的配方比例加入遮瑕体系内,可很好地遮盖肌肤上原有的缺陷,可使肌肤重现光滑细致,极大的提高遮瑕膏的遮盖力。
实施例1-8和对比例1-4中的遮瑕膏试样符合GB 7916-1987《化妆品卫生标准》。
本具体实施例仅仅是对本申请的解释,其并不是对本申请的限制,本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改,但只要在本申请的权利要求范围内都受到专利法的保护。
Claims (10)
1.一种遮瑕膏,其特征在于:由包含以下重量百分比的原料制成:
辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯17-21%、润肤剂Ⅰ 9.5-13%、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯8-12%、白蜂蜡7-13%、润肤剂Ⅱ 7.5-14.3%、着色剂9.95-15.5%、皮肤调理剂10.3-16%、硬脂酸3-6%、抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯0.5-1%和防腐剂0.5-1%;
所述润肤剂Ⅰ包括聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚二甲基硅氧烷;
所述皮肤调理剂包括皮肤调理剂Ⅰ和皮肤调理剂Ⅱ。
2.根据权利要求1所述的遮瑕膏,其特征在于:所述润肤剂Ⅰ为聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚二甲基硅氧烷;所述聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物和聚二甲基硅氧烷的重量比为(1-2):(7-10)。
3.根据权利要求2所述的遮瑕膏,其特征在于:所述润肤剂Ⅱ包括苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、棕榈酸乙基己酯、三山嵛精和三羟基硬脂精。
4.根据权利要求3所述的遮瑕膏,其特征在于:所述苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷占遮瑕膏总量的3-5%;
所述棕榈酸乙基己酯占遮瑕膏总量的2-4%;
所述三山嵛精占遮瑕膏总量的1-3%;
所述三羟基硬脂精占遮瑕膏总量的1.5-2.3%。
5.根据权利要求1-4中任一项所述的遮瑕膏,其特征在于:所述着色剂包括着色剂Ⅰ、着色剂Ⅱ、着色剂Ⅲ和着色剂Ⅳ;
所述着色剂Ⅰ包括CI 77891、三乙氧基辛基硅烷和氢氧化铝;
所述着色剂Ⅱ包括CI 77491;
所述着色剂Ⅲ包括CI 77499;
所述着色剂Ⅳ包括CI 77492。
6.根据权利要求5所述的遮瑕膏,其特征在于:所述着色剂Ⅰ占遮瑕膏总量的8-12%;
所述着色剂Ⅱ占遮瑕膏总量的0.1-0.7%;
所述着色剂Ⅲ占遮瑕膏总量的0.05-0.3%;
所述着色剂Ⅳ占遮瑕膏总量的1.8-2.5%。
7.根据权利要求6所述的遮瑕膏,其特征在于:所述CI 77891、三乙氧基辛基硅烷和氢氧化铝的质量比为(8-10):(0.05-0.1):(0.1-0.3)。
8.根据权利要求1所述的遮瑕膏,其特征在于:所述皮肤调理剂Ⅰ包括霍霍巴酯类、向日葵籽蜡、绿荆树花蜡和聚甘油-3;
所述皮肤调理剂Ⅱ包括月桂酰赖氨酸和硅石。
9.根据权利要求8所述的遮瑕膏,其特征在于:所述皮肤调理剂Ⅰ占遮瑕膏总量的0.8-1%;所述霍霍巴酯类、向日葵籽蜡、绿荆树花蜡和聚甘油-3的质量比为6:3.5: 2.5:2.5;
所以皮肤调理剂Ⅱ占遮瑕膏总量的9.5-15%;所述月桂酰赖氨酸占遮瑕膏总量的7.5-11%,所述硅石占遮瑕膏总量的2-4%。
10.一种如权利要求1-9中任一项所述的遮瑕膏的制备方法,其特征在于:包括如下步骤:
将辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯、白蜂蜡、硬脂酸、润肤剂Ⅱ、皮肤调理剂Ⅰ、防腐剂、抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯加热溶解完全,冷却至半固体;随后将润肤剂Ⅰ加入搅拌均匀,最后加入皮肤调理剂Ⅱ和着色剂搅拌均匀,多次研磨,再加热溶解,冷却,即可制得遮瑕膏。
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