CN113768824A - 一种水性腮红及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种水性腮红及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113768824A CN113768824A CN202111155410.XA CN202111155410A CN113768824A CN 113768824 A CN113768824 A CN 113768824A CN 202111155410 A CN202111155410 A CN 202111155410A CN 113768824 A CN113768824 A CN 113768824A
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种水性腮红及其制备方法，水性腮红包含以下重量百分含量的组分：丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物2～6％、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯0.5～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物0.5～5％、环己硅氧烷1～5％、PEG‑240/HDI共聚物双‑癸基十四醇聚醚‑20醚0.01～0.5％、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾0.01～0.5％。本发明提供一种悬浮体系的腮红，本发明组分中含有较高含量的油包水乳化剂——山梨坦异硬脂酸酯，可以在皮肤上均匀铺展成膜。而且还含有少量水包油乳化剂——鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾有助于降低水相整体的表面张力，使产品肤感清爽水润，易于涂抹，而且配方中还含有油相成膜剂，具有优异的抗水和妆效持久性能。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种水性腮红及其制备方法。
背景技术
腮红的基质与同剂型粉底类制品的原料接近，但其遮盖力比粉底弱，色调较粉底深。
腮红根据剂型的不同，可分为液体、半固体、固体剂型和气雾剂等。固体腮红是最常见的腮红类型，包括将粉体和胶合剂等压缩固实而成的块状制品，即粉饼状腮红以及散粉状腮红两种。固体腮红使用最为方便，妆面均匀持久，操作简便，容易掌握，适合初学者使用。但固体粉吸附能力较强，会吸取皮肤的水分和油分，不适合干性皮肤使用。膏状腮红是一种色调明亮，疏水性强，类似于戏剧化妆油彩，为浓妆或演员化妆之用的彩色化妆品。它使用方便，铺展性好，适合干性皮肤使用，但较油腻。
目前，腮红一般为粉块状或全油或油包水型等产品。粉块状腮红使用时粉尘较大，容易四处散飞，浪费较大且不易上妆，上妆后容易掉妆和花妆；全油的膏状腮红和油包水型气垫腮红涂抹时较油腻，较难吸收。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术存在的不足之处而提供一种水性腮红及其制备方法。
为实现上述目的，本发明采取的技术方案为：
第一方面，本发明提供一种水性腮红，包含以下重量百分含量的组分：丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物2～6％、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯0.5～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物0.5～5％、环己硅氧烷1～5％、PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚0.01～0.5％、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾0.01～0.5％。
本发明提供一种悬浮体系的腮红，但不同于常规的悬浮体系的是，本发明组分中含有较高含量的油包水乳化剂——山梨坦异硬脂酸酯，所以当产品施用于皮肤上，在涂抹过程中，水分逐步挥发，产品中的油相会与余下的部分水逐步形成油包水型产品，由于皮肤的亲脂性，所以该油包水型产品将在皮肤上均匀铺展成膜。而且产品中还加入了少量水包油乳化剂——鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾，加入少量水包油乳化剂有助于降低水相整体的表面张力，使产品肤感清爽水润，易于涂抹，而且配方中还含有油相成膜剂——丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物和环己硅氧烷，当产品在皮肤上作涂抹时，后期形成的油包水型产品由于油性成膜剂为连续膜，具有常规油包水型产品更优的抗水和妆效持久性能，解决了市面上现有腮红不易上妆，妆后易脱妆花妆的问题。
优选地，所述水性腮红包含以下重量百分含量的组分：丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物2～4％、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯1～2.5％、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物0.5～2％、环己硅氧烷1～3％、PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚0.01～0.3％、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾0.01～0.3％。
发明人通过研究发现，将悬浮增稠剂——丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、油包水乳化剂——山梨坦异硬脂酸酯、油相成膜剂——丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物和环己硅氧烷、增稠剂——PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚及水包油乳化剂——鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾共同使用，能使本发明产品水性腮红为悬浮体系，产品肤感清爽水润，易于涂抹，且抗水持妆性能持久。
优选地，所述水性腮红包含以下重量百分含量的组分：丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物3％、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯2％、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物0.9％、环己硅氧烷2％、PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚0.1％、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾0.2％。
发明人通过研究发现，组分含量会影响效果，在所述的重量百分含量范围下，本发明具有最佳的肤感、抗水持妆性能。
优选地，所述水性腮红还包含以下重量百分含量的成分：尿囊素0.05～0.5％、甘油7～15％、1,2-己二醇0.3～1％、生育酚乙酸酯0.01～0.5％、丙二醇1～7％、氢化聚异丁烯1～8％、由水、丁二醇、积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩根提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取物、茶叶提取物组成的复合物0.01～1％。
发明人通过研究发现，保湿剂、皮肤调理剂的添加提高了皮肤角质层水分含量，进而提高整个产品的使用性能。当保湿剂、皮肤调理剂的添加在上述重量百分含量范围下，本发明能够很好的润肤护肤效果。
优选地，所述水性腮红包含以下重量百分含量的成分：丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物3％、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯2％、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物0.9％、环己硅氧烷2％、PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚0.1％、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾0.2％、尿囊素0.1％、甘油10％、1,2-己二醇0.5％、生育酚乙酸酯0.06、丙二醇3％、氢化聚异丁烯3％、由水、丁二醇、积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩根提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取物、茶叶提取物组成的复合物0.05％。
发明人通过研究发现，上述组分含量使本发明产品的肤感、防水、滋润及妆效持久的效果达到最佳。
优选地，所述水性腮红还包含以下重量百分含量的成分：二氧化碳1～10％、CI77492 0.1～3％、CI 77491 0.1～2％、CI 77499 0.05～1％。
优选地，所述的水性腮红还包含以下重量百分含量的成分：螯合剂0.01～0.2％、防腐剂0.3～1％、香精0.01～0.2％、中和剂0.3～1％。
第二方面，本发明还提供一种水性腮红的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将尿囊素、甘油、螯合剂、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、防腐剂及水加热升温至80℃保温，再搅拌降温至40℃，得到A相；
(2)将生育酚乙酸酯、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯、二氧化钛、CI 77492、CI 77491、CI77499、氢化聚异丁烯混合均匀、均质，再将丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、环己硅氧烷加入，搅拌均匀；
(3)将40～60wt％中和剂加入A相，搅拌均匀，然后边搅拌边将步骤(2)所得原料加入，加完后均质，继续搅拌；
(4)再将PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、丙二醇、由水、丁二醇、积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩根提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取物、茶叶提取物组成的复合物、香精加入，均质，搅拌；
(5)再将40～60wt％中和剂加入，搅拌至均匀，得到所述水性腮红。
发明人通过研究发现，本发明是一种悬浮体系，若油相和水相都无难溶成分，整个制作过程可常温搅拌进行，适当均质则效果更佳，从而达到很好的节能环保作用。
本发明的有益效果在于：本发明提供了一种水性腮红，首先作为一款水基产品，色粉在通过少量油分散润湿后能均匀地悬浮在凝胶体系之中，涂抹时极易铺展且很水润，涂抹后腮红能均匀上妆且具有很好的抗水性。
具体实施方式
为更好的说明本发明的目的、技术方案和优点，下面将结合具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
本发明提供一种水性腮红及其制备方法。
实施例1～5
实施例1～5为本发明一种水性腮红的实施例，实施例1～7的成分以及重量百分含量见表1所示：
表1
实施例1～5的一种水性腮红的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将尿囊素、甘油、螯合剂、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、防腐剂及水加热升温至80℃保温，再搅拌降温至40℃，得到A相；
(2)将生育酚乙酸酯、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯、二氧化钛、CI 77492、CI 77491、CI77499、氢化聚异丁烯混合均匀、均质，再将丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、环己硅氧烷加入，搅拌均匀；
(3)将40～60wt％中和剂加入A相，搅拌均匀，然后边搅拌边将步骤(2)所得原料加入，加完后均质，继续搅拌；
(4)再将PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、丙二醇、由水、丁二醇、积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩根提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取物、茶叶提取物组成的复合物、香精加入，均质，搅拌；
(5)再将40～60wt％中和剂加入，搅拌至均匀，得到所述水性腮红。
对比例1～7
对比例1～7的水性腮红成分以及重量百分含量见表2所示：
表2
对比例1～7的水性腮红的制备方法与实施例1相同。
效果例1：防水性能测试
测试方法：将实施例1-5和对比例1-7制备的水性腮红通过拉膜器在德国BYK的拉膜板上拉制成60μm厚度的均匀薄膜。自然晾干后，用KRUSS DSA25液滴形状分析仪进行接触角测试，进而评判不同样板的疏水能力。该实验温度为25℃，采用生理盐水作为接触液体，一个样品至少取3个点进行接触角(CA)测试，测试结果取其平均值。接触角的采集数据均为液滴滴落后1s的数据，滴落液滴体积为3.5μL，接触角(CA)测试结果见表3。静态接触角越大，防水效果越好。
表3防水测试效果
| 组别 | 接触角(CA)/° | 组别 | 接触角(CA)/° |
| 实施例1 | 75.8 | 对比例1 | 75.3 |
| 实施例2 | 74.3 | 对比例2 | 63.1 |
| 实施例3 | 77.4 | 对比例3 | 66.5 |
| 实施例4 | 76.3 | 对比例4 | 68.9 |
| 实施例5 | 75.2 | 对比例5 | 69.6 |
| 对比例6 | 71.5 | 对比例7 | 74.8 |
效果例2：肤感测试
根据化妆品行业内感官分析法，对实施例1-5和对比例1-7水性腮红进行肤感评价。
(1)评价项目：铺展性、水润感、吸收性、总体评分；
(2)评分制度：各项指标的最高分为10分，表示非常好；8分是比较好；6分是可以接受；6分以下为不可接受的范围。
(3)方法：选取35位受过培训的评估人员，女性，年龄25-35岁；盲测进行评分，最终取其平均得分。测试结果见表4。
表4肤感测试结果
| 组别 | 铺展性 | 水润感 | 吸收性 | 贴服性 | 持久 | 总体评分 |
| 实施例1 | 7.8 | 7.5 | 7.7 | 7.8 | 8.1 | 7.8 |
| 实施例2 | 7.3 | 7.2 | 7.4 | 8.1 | 8.5 | 7.7 |
| 实施例3 | 8.1 | 7.9 | 8.1 | 7.7 | 7.9 | 7.9 |
| 实施例4 | 8.5 | 8.7 | 7.5 | 6.8 | 6.0 | 7.5 |
| 实施例5 | 6.7 | 7.1 | 6.9 | 8.4 | 8.7 | 7.5 |
| 对比例1 | 6.2 | 5.4 | 7.0 | 8.2 | 8.1 | 7 |
| 对比例2 | 7.5 | 8.3 | 6.3 | 5.6 | 6.7 | 6.8 |
| 对比例3 | 7.2 | 7.4 | 7.7 | 7.6 | 7.3 | 7.4 |
| 对比例4 | 6.8 | 7.3 | 7.9 | 7 | 7.8 | 7.3 |
| 对比例5 | 7.5 | 7.4 | 6.7 | 7.3 | 7.2 | 7.2 |
| 对比例6 | 6.8 | 7.6 | 7.2 | 6.7 | 7.8 | 7.2 |
| 对比例7 | 7.2 | 7.3 | 7.3 | 7.8 | 8.2 | 7.6 |
从表3及表4可知，实施例1～5的静态接触角均大于70°，对比例1中由于不含有悬浮增稠剂，体系最终成油包水体系，虽然接触角较大，但是对比例1的肤感测试结果较差，尤其是涂抹时的铺展性和水润感较差。对比例2由于只含有水包油乳化剂而不含有油包水乳化剂，其静态接触角最小，所以其贴服性及持妆持久度最差。对比例3和4都是不含油性成膜剂，接触角均有所减少，综合效果稍差。对比例5和6中缺少油脂，对接触角影响较小，但都影响产品最终的综合性能。
最后所应当说明的是，以上实施例仅用以说明本发明的技术方案而非对本发明保护范围的限制，尽管参照较佳实施例对本发明作了详细说明，本领域的普通技术人员应当理解，可以对本发明的技术方案进行修改或者等同替换，而不脱离本发明技术方案的实质和范围。
Claims (8)
1.一种水性腮红，其特征在于，包含以下重量百分含量的组分：丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物2～6％、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯0.5～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物0.5～5％、环己硅氧烷1～5％、PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚0.01～0.5％、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾0.01～0.5％。
2.根据权利要求1所述的水性腮红，其特征在于，包含以下重量百分含量的组分：丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物2～4％、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯1～2.5％、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物0.5～2％、环己硅氧烷1～3％、PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚0.01～0.3％、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾0.01～0.3％。
3.根据权利要求1所述的水性腮红，其特征在于，包含以下重量百分比含量的组分：丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物3％、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯2％、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物0.9％、环己硅氧烷2％、PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚0.1％、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾0.2％。
4.根据权利要求1所述的水性腮红，其特征在于，还包含以下重量百分含量的成分：尿囊素0.05～0.5％、甘油7～15％、1,2-己二醇0.3～1％、生育酚乙酸酯0.01～0.5％、丙二醇1～7％、氢化聚异丁烯1～8％、由水、丁二醇、积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩根提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取物、茶叶提取物组成的复合物0.01～1％。
5.根据权利要求4所述的水性腮红，其特征在于，包含以下重量百分含量的成分：丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物3％、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯2％、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物0.9％、环己硅氧烷2％、PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚0.1％、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾0.2％、尿囊素0.1％、甘油10％、1,2-己二醇0.5％、生育酚乙酸酯0.06、丙二醇3％、氢化聚异丁烯3％、由水、丁二醇、积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩根提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取物、茶叶提取物组成的复合物0.05％。
6.根据权利要求4所述的水性腮红，其特征在于，还包含以下重量百分含量的成分：二氧化碳1～10％、CI 77492 0.1～3％、CI 77491 0.1～2％、CI 774990.05～1％。
7.根据权利要求4～6任一项所述的水性腮红，其特征在于，还包含以下重量百分含量的成分：螯合剂0.01～0.2％、防腐剂0.3～1％、香精0.01～0.2％、中和剂0.3～1％。
8.一种如权利要求7所述的水性腮红的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
(1)将尿囊素、甘油、螯合剂、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、防腐剂及水加热升温至80℃保温，再搅拌降温至40℃，得到A相；
(2)将生育酚乙酸酯、山梨坦异硬脂酸酯、二氧化钛、CI 77492、CI 77491、CI 77499、氢化聚异丁烯混合均匀、均质，再将丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、环己硅氧烷加入，搅拌均匀；
(3)将40～60wt％中和剂加入A相，搅拌均匀，然后边搅拌边将步骤(2)所得原料加入，加完后均质，继续搅拌；
(4)再将PEG-240/HDI共聚物双-癸基十四醇聚醚-20醚、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、丙二醇、由水、丁二醇、积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩根提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取物、茶叶提取物组成的复合物、香精加入，均质，搅拌；
(5)再将40～60wt％中和剂加入，搅拌至均匀，得到所述水性腮红。
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