CN113599292A - Preparation method of micromolecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel - Google Patents
Preparation method of micromolecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel Download PDFInfo
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- CN113599292A CN113599292A CN202110929725.9A CN202110929725A CN113599292A CN 113599292 A CN113599292 A CN 113599292A CN 202110929725 A CN202110929725 A CN 202110929725A CN 113599292 A CN113599292 A CN 113599292A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4993—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
Abstract
The invention discloses a micromolecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel. The micromolecule oligosaccharide moisturizing gel comprises 1-3 wt% of carboxymethyl trehalose, 1-2 wt% of trehalose, 3-5 wt% of a penetration enhancer, 0.5-1 wt% of a rheology regulator and the balance of water. The gel prepared by combining the novel micromolecular biomass oligosaccharide humectant with natural prebiotics can effectively improve the transdermal absorption efficiency of active substances, the anti-drying damage capacity of fibroblasts and the proliferation capacity of skin probiotics. The oligosaccharide compound provided by the invention can be used as a novel moisturizing raw material of cosmetics, and can play a skin care effect in three aspects of skin moisturizing, excellent transdermal property, skin micro-ecology maintenance and the like.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a micromolecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics.
Background
Aiming at the common moisturizing agents of cosmetics such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, the molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid for cosmetics is mainly concentrated in a range of 10kDa-1000kDa in terms of molecular weight and is far higher than the optimal molecular weight range (generally less than or equal to 500Da) for realizing percutaneous absorption, the logP value of glycerin is-1.33 in terms of oil-water distribution coefficient and is far smaller than the optimal interval (0-1) for percutaneous absorption, and other skin moisturizing agents such as polyols, quasi-natural moisturizing factors, saccharides and the like still have some defects in the actual formula selection, for example, the polyol moisturizing agents are limited by environment and time, and the phenomena of skin dehydration, pore blockage or fat particle growing are easily caused by improper use concentration or dry environment; the problems of poor stability and the like of the pseudo-natural moisturizing factor in the application and storage processes; polysaccharide macromolecular substance, the skin has low bioavailability. Therefore, the single moisturizing component has difficulty in achieving the multi-level efficacy requirements of the finished cosmetic product, and related activity development research has been focused.
Carboxymethyl group has been widely used in derivatization research of cellulose, chitosan and other macromolecular polysaccharides as a functional group with excellent moisture absorption and retention properties, but the transdermal property of macromolecular substances is far smaller than that of micromolecular oligosaccharide. Trehalose is a low-molecular non-reducing disaccharide which is formed by combining two pyran ring glucose molecules through hemiacetal hydroxyl groups by alpha, alpha-1, 1 glycosidic bonds, has various biological activities, and has obvious specific protection effect on cell membrane structures and proteins in extreme environments. By utilizing the biological isostere theory, active trehalose from natural sources is taken as a substrate, and a moisturizing function modifying group is introduced to generate a superposition effect, so that the carboxymethyl trehalose prepared by the method is widely concerned in the technical field of cosmetics, and has been reported in relevant researches at home and abroad as a natural and safe functional moisturizing raw material.
Research shows that after standing for 24 hours, the moisture absorption rate and the moisture retention rate of the carboxymethyl trehalose are respectively 41.53% and 391.71% under the environment with the relative humidity of 81%; the moisture absorption rate and the moisture retention rate are 36.46% and 358.25% respectively under the environment with the relative humidity of 43%; the moisture retention rate under the dry environment is 51.69%, which is 4-6 times of trehalose and 2-3 times of hyaluronic acid. However, the research report of the transdermal property and the related application of the carboxymethyl trehalose is still lacked.
A large number of researches show that trehalose can promote beneficial proliferation of probiotics such as bifidobacterium and the like, the thallus survival rate can be maintained to be about 20% even after the complex in-vivo environment is 30min, and glucose or no other external source is added under the same condition, so that the thallus survival rate is less than 10% or the exponential decrease tends to zero.
How to effectively combine the two small molecular monomer compounds to obtain a cosmetic raw material with comprehensive skin care effects of good moisture retention, excellent transdermal property, skin micro-ecology maintenance and the like is not reported at present.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: how to obtain a cosmetic raw material with comprehensive skin care effects of good moisture retention, excellent transdermal property, skin micro-ecology maintenance and the like.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides a small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel which comprises 1-3 wt% of carboxymethyl trehalose, 1-2 wt% of trehalose, 3-5 wt% of a penetration enhancer, 0.5-1 wt% of a rheology modifier and the balance of water.
Preferably, the carboxymethyl trehalose is a small molecular oligosaccharide with a carboxymethyl group introduced to the alpha-6 position of a trehalose molecule.
Preferably, the penetration enhancer comprises tween 80, propylene glycol and PEG400, and the mass ratio of tween 80 to propylene glycol to PEG400 is 2: 2: 1.
preferably, the rheology modifier is polyacrylate-13.
The invention also provides application of the small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel in cosmetics.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
the moisturizing gel prepared by combining the novel micromolecule biomass oligosaccharide moisturizing agent with the natural prebiotics can effectively improve the transdermal absorption efficiency of active substances, the anti-drying damage capacity of fibroblasts and the proliferation capacity of skin probiotics. The oligosaccharide compound provided by the invention can be used as a novel moisturizing raw material of cosmetics, and realizes comprehensive skin care effects of moisturizing skin, excellent transdermal property, maintaining skin micro-ecology and the like. The moisturizing gel is not added with a chemical preservative, is more environment-friendly, safer to use and more remarkable in effect.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a measurement of the skin moisture content values under the influence of moisturizing gel samples of examples 1-4;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the cumulative permeation of carboxymethyl trehalose and glycerol measured in examples 1 to 4;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the growth of Bifidobacterium adolescentis cells under the influence of the moisturizing gel samples of examples 1 to 4.
Detailed Description
In order to make the invention more comprehensible, preferred embodiments are described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
The carboxymethyl trehalose used in the following examples is a small oligosaccharide having a carboxymethyl group introduced into the α -6 position of the trehalose molecule.
Example 1
A small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel:
uniformly mixing the following components at 50 ℃: the mass percent of the carboxymethyl trehalose is 1 wt%; the mass percent of the trehalose is 1 wt%; the mass percentage of the penetration enhancer is 3 wt%; the mass percent of the rheology modifier is 0.5wt percent, and the balance is water.
Wherein the penetration enhancer is Tween 80, propylene glycol and PEG400 according to the mass ratio of 2: 2: 1 compounding a homogeneous mixture; the rheology modifier was 0.5 wt% polyacrylate-13.
Example 2
A small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel:
uniformly mixing the following components at 50 ℃: the mass percent of the carboxymethyl trehalose is 2 wt%; the mass percent of the trehalose is 1.5 wt%; the mass percentage of the penetration enhancer is 4 wt%; the mass percent of the rheology modifier is 0.8wt percent, and the balance is water.
Wherein the penetration enhancer is tween 80, propylene glycol and PEG400, and the weight ratio of the penetration enhancer is 2: 2: 1 compounding a homogeneous mixture; the rheology modifier was 0.8 wt% polyacrylate-13.
Example 3
A small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel:
uniformly mixing the following components at 50 ℃: the mass percent of the carboxymethyl trehalose is 3 wt%; the mass percent of the trehalose is 2 wt%; the mass percentage of the penetration enhancer is 5 wt%; the mass percent of the rheology modifier is 1wt percent, and the balance is made up by water.
Wherein the penetration enhancer is Tween 80, propylene glycol and PEG400 according to the mass ratio of 2: 2: 1 compounding a homogeneous mixture; the rheology modifier was 1 wt% polyacrylate-13.
Example 4
A small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel:
uniformly mixing the following components at 50 ℃: the mass percent of glycerol is 3 wt%; the mass percent of the trehalose is 2 wt%; the mass percentage of the penetration enhancer is wt 5%; the mass percent of the rheology modifier is 1wt percent, and the balance is made up by water.
Wherein the penetration enhancer is Tween 80, propylene glycol and PEG400 according to the mass ratio of 2: 2: 1 compounding a homogeneous mixture; the rheology modifier was 1 wt% polyacrylate-13.
The small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel samples of examples 1-4 are taken for activity analysis and evaluation, and the method comprises the following steps:
1) evaluation of moisture-holding Damage resistance-skin moisture content measurement site by corneometer: the blank matrix group and the sample group select a 2 x square grid on the inner side of the arm as a test area, each grid is divided into 5 test points to repeatedly collect data, each data point is repeated for 3 times, and each sample area collects 15 groups of sample data to perform subsequent processing.
The test system comprises: german MDD4-Corneometer CM825 model skin moisture tester;
and (3) testing environment: the testing time is 8h, and a skin function testing room without direct sunlight is selected;
and (3) testing conditions are as follows: controlling the room temperature to be (26 +/-0.5) DEG C and the relative humidity to be 41 +/-5 percent;
the test method comprises the following steps: the test object is well cleaned by arms before testing, the test is carried out after sitting still for 20min in the test environment, and the skin moisture content values at 0h, 2h, 4h, 6h and 8h are respectively measured according to the operation specification.
The statistical method comprises the following steps: the two samples are compared by adopting T test, and the multiple samples are compared pairwise by adopting a method for analysis. Statistical analysis was performed on all data using SPSS12.0 statistical software.
The skin moisture content measurement results are shown in figure 1.
2) Evaluation of moisturizing and anti-injury capacity-HaCat cell drying injury model:
cell synchronization: culturing HaCat cells until the fusion rate reaches more than 80%, and adding MEM (minimum essential medium) without calf serum for synchronization treatment for 12 h.
Cell plating: synchronized cells were digested with 0.25% trypsin, collected, counted, adjusted to 105 cells/mL, and plated in 24-well plates at 1 mL/well.
Adding medicine: after the cells adhere to the wall, adding the medicine, respectively setting up a normal control group (without drying treatment), a blank control group (drying treatment blank group) and an adding medicine group, 3 multiple wells in each group, and incubating for 24 h.
And (3) drying treatment: at 25 deg.C, drying at 0.3m/s and RH% of 45 + -5% in a superclean bench, sequentially sucking all culture medium from each hole of blank control group and drug-adding group, and standing in the superclean bench for 10-15 min.
Cell viability assay: after the dried cells were cultured normally in MEM medium containing 10% calf serum for 24 hours, 100uL of CCK8 solution and 5% CO were added to each well2After incubation at 37 ℃ for 2h, the cells were transferred to a 9-well plate and absorbance was measured at 450 nm.
And (4) settlement of experimental results:
cell dry mortality (%) - (1-OD value in detection group/OD value in normal group). times.100%
Percent cell protection (%) (blank cell dry death-drug group cell dry death)/blank cell dry death × 100%
The results of cell dry mortality are shown in table 1.
3) Evaluation of transdermal performance:
fixing the prepared rat skin/artificial skin between two diffusion cells by using an iron clamp, adding 5mL of NaCl solution (normal saline) with the mass fraction of 0.9% into a receiving cell of a vertical diffusion cell, setting the stirring speed of the receiving cell to be 400 r/min, and setting the water temperature in a constant temperature bath to be 37 +/-0.1 ℃. Feeding liquid (sample to be tested) is respectively added into the feeding tanks, and the upper openings are sealed by preservative films. When the samples penetrated for 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 24 hours, V was sampled2And (4) placing the sample in a centrifuge tube with a plug, supplementing an equal amount of receiving liquid into the receiving pool and removing air bubbles in the pool at the same time of sampling each time. According to different detected objects, different detection methods are adopted to detect the concentration of the sample in the receiving solution. The cumulative permeation amount Q (mg/cm) was calculated according to the following formula2)：
Wherein Q is the cumulative permeation amount, and S is the transdermal diffusion area (diffusion cell R is 0.6cm, S is 1.1304 cm)2)，V1Volume of receiving liquid (V) for Franz diffusion cell1＝5mL)，ρnThe mass concentration (mg/mL) of the receiving solution at the time of the n-th sampling, piThe mass concentration (mg/mL) of the receiving solution at the time of the ith sampling, V2Is the sample size.
The results of the transdermal property measurement are shown in FIG. 2.
4) Evaluation of the proliferative effect on bifidobacterium adolescentis:
activating strains: activating and culturing Bifidobacterium adolescentis with a culture medium containing 0.3% sodium chloride, 0.1% magnesium sulfate, 0.1% dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and 0.1% glucose for 6h, and repeatedly washing the thallus with 0.3% physiological saline for 3 times to obtain a bacterial suspension.
Respectively culturing the bacterial suspension by using MRS culture media which do not contain carbon sources, contain 1g/L glucose as carbon sources, contain 1g/L fructo-oligosaccharide as carbon sources and contain 1g/L samples to be detected, and respectively culturing for 2h, 4h, 6h, 8h and 10h to determine the light absorption value of the bacterial liquid at 600nm to obtain a growth curve, wherein the growth curve is shown in figure 3.
TABLE 1 Dry mortality of dermal fibroblasts (%) -based on the moisturizing gel samples of examples 1-4
The above-described embodiments are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the present invention in any way and substantially, it should be noted that those skilled in the art may make several modifications and additions without departing from the scope of the present invention, which should also be construed as a protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (5)
1. A small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel is characterized by comprising 1-3 wt% of carboxymethyl trehalose, 1-2 wt% of trehalose, 3-5 wt% of a penetration enhancer, 0.5-1 wt% of a rheology modifier and the balance of water.
2. The small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel of claim 1, wherein the carboxymethyl trehalose is a small molecular oligosaccharide with a carboxymethyl group introduced at the alpha-6 position of the trehalose molecule.
3. The small molecular oligosaccharide moisturizing gel of claim 1, wherein the penetration enhancer comprises tween 80, propylene glycol and PEG400, and the mass ratio of tween 80 to propylene glycol to PEG400 is 2: 2: 1.
4. the small molecule oligosaccharide moisturizing gel of claim 1, wherein the rheology modifier is polyacrylate-13.
5. Use of the small oligosaccharide moisturizing gel of any one of claims 1-4 in cosmetics.
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN114010524A (en) * | 2021-12-01 | 2022-02-08 | 浙江宜格企业管理集团有限公司 | Moisturizing composition for cosmetics |
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| JP2011136957A (en) * | 2009-12-28 | 2011-07-14 | Lion Corp | Skin cleansing agent composition |
| CN106880513A (en) * | 2017-04-06 | 2017-06-23 | 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 | A kind of biological polyoses moisture-keeping composition and its applied in cosmetics are prepared |
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Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| JP2005053841A (en) * | 2003-08-05 | 2005-03-03 | Kyouto Biomedical Science:Kk | Skin care preparation for external use |
| CN101348507A (en) * | 2008-08-22 | 2009-01-21 | 烟台海岸带可持续发展研究所 | Carboxymethyl mycose moisture absorption humectant and preparing method thereof |
| JP2011136957A (en) * | 2009-12-28 | 2011-07-14 | Lion Corp | Skin cleansing agent composition |
| CN106880513A (en) * | 2017-04-06 | 2017-06-23 | 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 | A kind of biological polyoses moisture-keeping composition and its applied in cosmetics are prepared |
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Cited By (1)
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| CN114010524A (en) * | 2021-12-01 | 2022-02-08 | 浙江宜格企业管理集团有限公司 | Moisturizing composition for cosmetics |
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