CN112779756A - Method for cutting wheel sleeves - Google Patents

Method for cutting wheel sleeves Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112779756A
CN112779756A CN202110003989.1A CN202110003989A CN112779756A CN 112779756 A CN112779756 A CN 112779756A CN 202110003989 A CN202110003989 A CN 202110003989A CN 112779756 A CN112779756 A CN 112779756A
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sleeve
point
taking
multiplied
length
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CN112779756B (en
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陈文强
鞠月
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Xijing University
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Xijing University
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06HMARKING, INSPECTING, SEAMING OR SEVERING TEXTILE MATERIALS
    • D06H7/00Apparatus or processes for cutting, or otherwise severing, specially adapted for the cutting, or otherwise severing, of textile materials
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10Sleeves; Armholes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/08Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for cutting vehicle wheel sleeves, which comprises a sleeve cutting method and a sleeve wall cutting method. The sleeve structure is a big sleeve and small sleeve conjoined structure, and the sleeve wall structure is matched and sewed with the sleeve of the sleeve to form a wheel shape. The inner and outer lines of the large and small sleeve pieces are sewed to form a sleeve shape, only the upper end and the lower end of the sleeve are sewed to form a folding sleeve cut, the sleeve cut is inverted on the large sleeve structure, and the three sleeve cuts are used for nailing decorative buttons. The sleeve wall and the sleeve are sewn oppositely at two height points, the sleeve wall is turned to form a standing wheel modeling structure, the inner curve line of the sleeve wall is matched and sewn with the armholes of the cut piece, shoulder pads are arranged on the shoulders, and the sleeve wall stands on the shoulder pads to enable the wheel modeling to be more three-dimensional and attractive. The invention has the advantages that: firstly, the structure of the big sleeve and the small sleeve is more convenient to map; secondly, the cutting process is simple and convenient; thirdly, breaking through the traditional sleeve mountain shape, adopting a wheel shape to cut the sleeve mountain shape is more beneficial to the change of the sleeve shape, and the method is worth popularizing.

Description

Method for cutting wheel sleeves
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of garment tailoring, and particularly relates to a method for tailoring a wheel sleeve.
Background
The wheel sleeve belongs to a sleeve with a bionic shape, and has a beautiful shape and a simple structure. The tailoring method adopts the matching drawing and tailoring of the big sleeve and the small sleeve, the height of the shirt sleeve is increased on the basis of the traditional sleeve mountain, the secondary height is the wheel modeling, and the sleeve mountain wall structure is matched on the basis of the height to help the third dimension of the wheel, thereby breaking the traditional sleeve mountain modeling from the structure, simultaneously applying the point number and the calculation method on the drawing, and improving the drawing efficiency and the modeling accuracy. The adhesive interlining is adopted as an auxiliary means for supporting the shape in the manufacturing aspect, the structure of the sleeve cuff belongs to a conjoined structure, and the cutting and sewing are easily finished. The excitation on the aspect of the modeling idea. For example, the wheel shaping of the sleeve top can be continuously heightened and reduced, the transverse expansion of the shaping can be stimulated, and the manufactured more exquisite wheel sleeve has an extremely creative deformation design. The design and the manufacture of the modeling sleeve can solve the problem of matching of the sleeve cap and the armhole, and the cutting method of the wheel sleeve provided by the scheme is worthy of popularization.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a three-dimensional and attractive wheel sleeve cutting method, which breaks through the traditional sleeve mountain shape of sleeves by drawing a large sleeve and a small sleeve fit structure, adopts a wheel shape for cutting, and is worthy of popularization.
The invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
a method of tailoring a wheel sleeve comprising the steps of:
1) drawing sleeve
Drawing a rectangle abcd, wherein the lengths of the long edges ab and cd are 0.263 multiplied by number, and the lengths of the short edges ad and bc are 0.44 multiplied by type;
respectively extending ba and cd to a small sleeve side upper point e and a large sleeve side upper point m, wherein ae and dm are 0.104 multiplied in length, taking a large sleeve midpoint j on a line segment ab, and the dj is 0.115 multiplied in length, intersecting the ad perpendicular line of the large sleeve midpoint j and the ad parallel line of the large sleeve upper point m with the center point k of the large sleeve mountain, extending jk to the large sleeve mountain midpoint h, and the jh is 0.22 multiplied in length; taking a right curvature point s of the large sleeve by taking an angular bisector of < hkm, taking < hkr equal to < hks, and setting the lengths of kr and ks to be 0.11 multiplied;
taking a sleeve fertilizer dead point l on a line segment ad, wherein the jl length is equal to the dj length, taking the sleeve fertilizer dead point l as an ad vertical line to take an upper point i outside the sleeve, the li length is 0.087 multiplied by type, the middle point of al is taken as a bottom point n of the small sleeve hill, an angular bisector of ≥ iln is taken to take a right curvature point l1 of the small sleeve hill, the length of ll1 is 0.046 multiplied by type, the angular bisector of ≥ ean is taken to take a left curvature point a1 of the small sleeve hill, the length of aa1 is 0.05 multiplied by type, and e, a1, n, l1, i, r, h, s and m are connected by smooth curves to form a sleeve hill arc line;
taking a sleeve side division point p on bc, wherein the length of cp is 0.244 multiplied type, taking a sleeve elbow separation point o by taking the sleeve side division point p as a vertical line, taking a small sleeve elbow outer point f and a large sleeve elbow inner point g on ba and cd, respectively, taking the lengths of po, bf and cg as 0.28 multiplied type, taking a small sleeve elbow curvature point f1 and a large sleeve elbow curvature point g1 by taking the small sleeve elbow outer point f and the large sleeve elbow inner point g as vertical lines, taking the lengths of ff1 and gg1 as 0.021 multiplied type, taking a small sleeve opening point b1 and a large sleeve opening point c1 on bc, taking the lengths of bb1 and cc1 as 0.018 multiplied type, connecting e, f1 and b1 by a smooth curve to form a small sleeve inner side arc line, and m, g1 and c1 form a large sleeve inner side arc line;
a large sleeve elbow separation point o1 and a small sleeve elbow separation point o2 are taken by taking a sleeve elbow separation point o as a po vertical line, the lengths of oo1 and oo2 are 0.012 multiplied, the lengths of the small sleeve elbow separation point b1 and the large sleeve elbow separation point c1 are c1q1 and b1q, the length of b1q is 0.134 multiplied, the length of c1q1 is 0.18 multiplied, the included angles between b1q and c1q1 and bc are respectively 8 degrees and 6 degrees, the smooth curve connection l, o2 and q form a small sleeve outer arc line, the smooth curve connection l, o1 and q1 form a large sleeve outer arc line, and the angles between e, a1, n, l1, i, r, h, s, m, g1, c1, q1, o1, l, o2, q, b1 and f1 form a sheet structure outline;
2) cutting of fur sleeve sheet
Based on the drawing of the sleeve, sewing heads are arranged along the structural outline of the sleeve to be cut, and a triangle and a trapezoid sleeve opening are cut off outside the sleeve;
3) sleeve gable tailoring
Drawing an isosceles right triangle tzu on the folded cloth, wherein the lengths of the sides tu and tz are 0.185X, extending tu to the vertex point v of the sleeve wall, the length of uv is 0.05X, taking the perpendicular line of the uz midpoint sleeve wall perpendicular point x as the perpendicular line to obtain the inner bending point y of the sleeve wall, the length of xy is 0.053X, extending xy to the outer bending point w of the sleeve wall, the length of yw is 0.031X, connecting u, y and z by smooth curves to form an inner arc line of the sleeve wall, and v, w and z form an outer arc line of the sleeve wall;
cutting according to the inner arc line and the outer arc line to obtain a sleeve gable wall;
4) sewing machine
Folding the hair sleeve sheet to align the outer arc of the small sleeve with the outer arc of the large sleeve, sewing by taking the sleeve fertilizer dead point l as a starting point, and sewing the inner arc of the small sleeve and the inner arc of the large sleeve in a matching manner;
and (3) sewing the sleeve mountain h point to the sleeve mountain wall v point, the sleeve mountain n point to the sleeve mountain wall z point, and aligning the sleeve mountain wall u point to the shoulder of the garment piece for sleeve stitching.
Further, cutting the sleeve adhesive interlining, namely measuring points 3, 4 on the sleeve piece, and cutting the upper end part of 15 cm in length, wherein the length is equal to points 5, 6 and the length is equal to point 3; measuring the length of the cuff slit to be 8.5 centimeters in the sleeve crest direction on arcs q1, o1, i and q, o2 and i to form a horizontal line, placing a sewing line on the outer side of the sleeve to generate a point 1 and a point 2, cutting the cuff adhesive interlining by taking the point 2 and the point 1 as the horizontal line, and cutting according to the cuff structure of the wool-like sleeve piece below the horizontal line.
Further, the adhesive lining cloth is aligned with the reverse side of the sleeve cloth and ironed and bonded in an iron lining cloth mode; the adhesion parameters were set as: the temperature is 120 ℃, the pressure is 206-294 kpa, and the time is 5s, and the intermittent ironing technology is adopted.
Furthermore, the sewing adopts a lock stitch flat sewing mode, and the parameters are as follows: the needle code density is 13 needles and 2.5 cm, and the stitch type is 1.01.01 (301).
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
compared with the traditional sleeve model, the wheel sleeve belongs to a novel sleeve model. Which comprises a sleeve cutting method and a sleeve wall cutting method. The sleeve structure is a big sleeve and small sleeve conjoined structure, and the sleeve wall structure is matched and sewed with the sleeve of the sleeve to form a wheel shape. The sleeve structure and the sleeve wall structure are utilized to cut the hair-like sleeve pieces and the hair-like sleeve wall, and the cut hair-like sleeve pieces need to be provided with sleeves at the sleeves. Cutting sleeve bonding interlining and cuff bonding interlining on the basis of the hair-like sleeve sheets, wherein the bonding interlining is cut by adopting non-woven bonding interlining, the sleeve bonding interlining is bonded at sleeve caps of the sleeve sheets, and the cuff bonding interlining is bonded at cuffs. The inner and outer threads of the large and small sleeve pieces are sewn by a flat sewing machine to form a sleeve shape, only the upper end and the lower end of the sleeve are sewn to form a folding sleeve slit, the sleeve slit is inverted on the large sleeve structure, and the sleeve slit is used for nailing three decorative buttons. The sleeve mountain wall and two height points (two lower points) of the sleeve mountain wall are oppositely sewn to form a stiff wheel modeling structure through overturning, the inward curve line of the sleeve mountain wall is matched and sewed with the armholes of the cut piece, shoulder pads are arranged on the shoulders, and the sleeve mountain wall stands on the shoulder pads to enable the wheel modeling to be more three-dimensional and attractive. The invention has the advantages that: firstly, the structure of the big sleeve and the small sleeve is more convenient to map; secondly, the cutting process is simple and convenient; thirdly, breaking through the traditional sleeve mountain shape, adopting a wheel shape to cut the sleeve mountain shape is more beneficial to the change of the sleeve shape, and the method is worth popularizing.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the structure of sleeve panels and sleeve top walls according to the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a clean sample structure of sleeve panels and sleeve walls according to the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the seam of the sleeve panel and the sleeve wall of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the cutting process of the sleeve panel and sleeve wall wool pattern of the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the cutting process of the lining cloth of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the lining cloth bonding process of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a schematic view of a sleeve sewing process of the present invention;
fig. 8 is a schematic view of the sleeve stitching process of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to specific embodiments of the present invention, and it should be understood that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
The invention provides a method for cutting vehicle wheel sleeves, which comprises a sleeve cutting method and a sleeve wall cutting method. The sleeve structure is a big sleeve and small sleeve conjoined structure, and the sleeve wall structure is matched and sewed with the sleeve of the sleeve to form a wheel shape. The sleeve structure and the sleeve wall structure are utilized to cut the hair-like sleeve pieces and the hair-like sleeve wall, and the cut hair-like sleeve pieces need to be provided with sleeves at the sleeves. Cutting sleeve bonding interlining and cuff bonding interlining on the basis of the hair-like sleeve sheets, wherein the bonding interlining is cut by adopting non-woven bonding interlining, the sleeve bonding interlining is bonded at sleeve caps of the sleeve sheets, and the cuff bonding interlining is bonded at cuffs. The inner and outer threads of the large and small sleeve pieces are sewn by a flat sewing machine to form a sleeve shape, only the upper end and the lower end of the sleeve are sewn to form a folding sleeve slit, the sleeve slit is inverted on the large sleeve structure, and the sleeve slit is used for nailing three decorative buttons. The sleeve mountain wall and two height points (two lower points) of the sleeve mountain wall are oppositely sewn to form a stiff wheel modeling structure through overturning, the inward curve line of the sleeve mountain wall is matched and sewed with the armholes of the cut piece, shoulder pads are arranged on the shoulders, and the sleeve mountain wall stands on the shoulder pads to enable the wheel modeling to be more three-dimensional and attractive.
Specifically, as shown in fig. 1, the elbow-resistance test device comprises a rectangular left upper point a, a rectangular left lower point b, a rectangular right lower point c, a rectangular right upper point d, a large sleeve upper side point m, a large sleeve right curvature point s, a large sleeve middle point h, a large sleeve left curvature point r, a large sleeve cuff heart point k, a large sleeve middle point j, a sleeve outer side upper point i, a sleeve fat stop point l, a small sleeve right curvature point l1, a small sleeve bottom point n, a small sleeve left curvature point a1, a small sleeve side upper point e, a small sleeve outer point f, a small sleeve elbow curvature point f1, a small sleeve opening point b1, a small sleeve width point q, a sleeve side division point p, a sleeve elbow separation point o, a small elbow separation point o2, a large elbow separation point o1, a large sleeve opening point c1, a large sleeve width point q1, a large sleeve inner side point g, a large sleeve curvature point g1, an elbow separation point o, a small sleeve wall t, a left sleeve wall point v, a high sleeve wall point z, a high sleeve wall point y, a high sleeve wall point z, a high sleeve width point y, And (3) bending points w outside the sleeve gable wall, wherein the points are used for drawing and cutting the structures of the sleeve piece and the sleeve gable wall.
The sleeve edition is drawn by adopting the woman body size with the model number of 16082A (middle model). In the drawing of the sleeve, the long side ab of the rectangle abcd is set to be dc 42.08 cm, the calculation method is 0.263 × 160, the wide side ad is set to be 36.08 cm, and the calculation method is 0.44 × 82. The height ae of the cuff side is 8.528 cm, and the calculation method is 0.104 × 82. The sleeve center distance dj is 9.43 cm, and the calculation method is 0.115 × 82. The height jh of the sleeve top is 18.04 cm, and the calculation method is 0.22 × 82. The basic graph drawing method of the sleeve hill sets a line segment dm to be an extension line of a side cd of a rectangle, jh to be perpendicular to an upper side da of the rectangle, a line segment km to be perpendicular to jh, a line segment ks to be a bisector of an angle hkm, and an angle hks to be an angle hkr. The line rk is 9.02 cm, and the calculation method is 0.11 × 82. The line segment li is perpendicular to the upper side da of the rectangle, the line segment li is 7.134 centimeters, and the calculation method is 0.087 × 82. The point n is half of the line segment al, the line segment ll1 is an angle bisector of < iln, the line segment ll1 is 3.772 cm, and the calculation method is 0.046 × 82. The line segment ae is perpendicular to the upper side da of the rectangle, the line segment aa1 is an angular bisector of the angle ean, the line segment aa1 is 4.1 cm, and the calculation method is 0.05 × 82.
The connecting points e, a1, n, l1, i, r, h, s and m are connected by arcs to form an integral sleeve top arc. The calculation method is 0.28 × 82, where po cg is 22.96 cm. The segment of the inner camber line on the large sleeve and the small sleeve is ff1 gg1 1.722 cm, and the calculation method is 0.021 × 82. The lower inner curvature line segment of the large and small sleeves is bb1 ═ cc1 ═ 1.476 centimeters, and the calculation method is 0.018 × 82. The medial arc of the sleeve is formed by the arc connection points e, f1, b 1. The inner arc of the large sleeve is formed by connecting the arc points m, g1 and c 1. The line segment cp is set to 20.008 cm, and the calculation method is 0.244 × 82. The line oo 1-oo 2-0.984 cm and the calculation method is 0.012 × 82. The calculation method is 0.18 × 82, setting the large cuff c1q1 to 14.76 cm. The included angle formed by the large cuff c1q1 and the rectangular sideline bc is 6 degrees. The cuff b1q is 10.988 cm, and the calculation method is 0.134 × 82. The small cuff c1q1 and the rectangular sideline bc form an included angle of 8 degrees. The arc connecting points l, o2 and q form the outer arc of the small sleeve. The large outer sleeve arc is formed by arc connecting points l, o1 and q 1. The integral structure of the sleeve panel is formed by connecting points e, a1, n, l1, i, r, h, s, m, g1, c1, q1, o1, l, o2, q, b1 and f1 to form a structural outline of the sleeve panel.
As shown in FIGS. 2 to 6, a method for cutting a sleeve sheet. The cutting of the sleeve sheets is carried out on the basis of the clean sample of the sleeve sheets, the sleeve sheets are set as the clean sample, and the sleeve sheets are set as the rough sample. Sewing heads are arranged at the upper end and the side edge of the combined big and small sleeve sample piece for 1.0 cm, folded edges are arranged at the cuffs for 3.5 cm, and the hair sample sleeve piece is cut along the outer contour line segment of the sewing. And the triangle and the trapezoid of the sleeve opening are cut off at the outer side of the sleeve. The cutting of the sleeve liner is to cut the upper end part of the sleeve liner by measuring points 3, 4, 5, 6 and 15 cm on the basis of the hair sleeve sheet, and the sleeve liner is cut by adopting a non-woven adhesive liner. At an arc q1,o1, i and q, o2, i, measuring the length of the sleeve slit in the direction of the sleeve mountains to 8.5 cm, and taking the length as a horizontal line and generating points 1 and 2 of the sewing line outside the sleeve. The cuff adhesive interlining is cut by taking the point 2 and the point 1 as horizontal lines, and cut according to the cuff structure of the wool-like sleeve piece below the horizontal lines. The bonding process of the sleeve top bonding interlining and the cuff bonding interlining aims the bonding interlining cloth at the reverse side of the sleeve cloth and carries out ironing bonding in an iron padding cloth mode. Setting the bonding parameters: the temperature is 120 ℃, and the pressure is 206-294 kpa (2.1 kgfcm)2~3kgfcm2) And 5s, adopting an intermittent ironing technology.
The sleeve mountain wall structure is crescent (structure after opening), and the sleeve mountain wall structure is drawn and cut on the basis of an isosceles right triangle tzu. The triangle isosceles line segment tu-tz-15.17 cm is set, and the calculation method is 0.185 × 82. The line uv is an extension of the isosceles side tu, is 4.1 cm, and is calculated by 0.05 × 82. The line xy is perpendicular to the line uz and in the middle of the line uz. The method is used for drawing the curvature of the sleeve wall, the line segment xy is 4.346 cm, and the calculation method is 0.053 multiplied by 82. Extending the line segment xy to point w, the line segment yw is 2.542 cm, and the calculation method is 0.031 × 82. And respectively connecting points u, y and z by arcs similar to the crescent shape to form an inner radian of the sleeve wall, and connecting points v, w and z by arcs to form an outer radian of the sleeve wall, and cutting according to the inner arcs and the outer arcs to obtain the sleeve wall.
As shown in fig. 7, the method for sewing the sleeve panel. The small sleeve is folded on the large sleeve body and is sewed with the outer side seam of the sleeve (sewed off triangular), the point l is a seam starting point, the upper part and the lower part of the sleeve seam (with a sleeve seam structure) are sewed transversely, and the inner side seam of the sleeve is sewed after the seam, and the seam head is 1.0 cm. A sewing method; adopting a lock stitch flat sewing mode with the parameters as follows; the needle code density is 13 needles and 2.5 cm, and the stitch type is 1.01.01 (301). According to the cuff process, 3.5 cm of cuff lining folds are matched and sewn with the material of the cuff lining.
As shown in fig. 8, the sleeve stitching process. The sleeve inner curved line is aligned with the sleeve hole structure of the cut piece for matching and sewing, the matching method is that sleeve wall points u are aligned with the shoulder of the cut piece for sleeve attaching, and the sewing head is 1.0 cm. A sewing method; adopting a lock stitch flat sewing mode with the parameters as follows; the needle code density is 13 needles and 2.5 cm, and the stitch type is 1.01.01 (301).
Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims (3)

1. A method of tailoring a wheel sleeve comprising the steps of:
1) drawing sleeve
Drawing a rectangle abcd, wherein the lengths of the long edges ab and cd are 0.263 multiplied by number, and the lengths of the short edges ad and bc are 0.44 multiplied by type;
respectively extending ba and cd to a small sleeve side upper point e and a large sleeve side upper point m, wherein ae and dm are 0.104 multiplied in length, taking a large sleeve midpoint j on a line segment ab, and the dj is 0.115 multiplied in length, intersecting the ad perpendicular line of the large sleeve midpoint j and the ad parallel line of the large sleeve upper point m with the center point k of the large sleeve mountain, extending jk to the large sleeve mountain midpoint h, and the jh is 0.22 multiplied in length; taking a right curvature point s of the large sleeve by taking an angular bisector of < hkm, taking < hkr equal to < hks, and setting the lengths of kr and ks to be 0.11 multiplied;
taking a sleeve fertilizer dead point l on a line segment ad, wherein the jl length is equal to the dj length, taking the sleeve fertilizer dead point l as an ad vertical line to take an upper point i outside the sleeve, the li length is 0.087 multiplied by type, the middle point of al is taken as a bottom point n of the small sleeve hill, an angular bisector of ≥ iln is taken to take a right curvature point l1 of the small sleeve hill, the length of ll1 is 0.046 multiplied by type, the angular bisector of ≥ ean is taken to take a left curvature point a1 of the small sleeve hill, the length of aa1 is 0.05 multiplied by type, and e, a1, n, l1, i, r, h, s and m are connected by smooth curves to form a sleeve hill arc line;
taking a sleeve side division point p on bc, wherein the length of cp is 0.244 multiplied type, taking a sleeve elbow separation point o by taking the sleeve side division point p as a vertical line, taking a small sleeve elbow outer point f and a large sleeve elbow inner point g on ba and cd, respectively, taking the lengths of po, bf and cg as 0.28 multiplied type, taking a small sleeve elbow curvature point f1 and a large sleeve elbow curvature point g1 by taking the small sleeve elbow outer point f and the large sleeve elbow inner point g as vertical lines, taking the lengths of ff1 and gg1 as 0.021 multiplied type, taking a small sleeve opening point b1 and a large sleeve opening point c1 on bc, taking the lengths of bb1 and cc1 as 0.018 multiplied type, connecting e, f1 and b1 by a smooth curve to form a small sleeve inner side arc line, and m, g1 and c1 form a large sleeve inner side arc line;
a large sleeve elbow separation point o1 and a small sleeve elbow separation point o2 are taken by taking a sleeve elbow separation point o as a po vertical line, the lengths of oo1 and oo2 are 0.012 multiplied, the lengths of the small sleeve elbow separation point b1 and the large sleeve elbow separation point c1 are c1q1 and b1q, the length of b1q is 0.134 multiplied, the length of c1q1 is 0.18 multiplied, the included angles between b1q and c1q1 and bc are respectively 8 degrees and 6 degrees, the smooth curve connection l, o2 and q form a small sleeve outer arc line, the smooth curve connection l, o1 and q1 form a large sleeve outer arc line, and the angles between e, a1, n, l1, i, r, h, s, m, g1, c1, q1, o1, l, o2, q, b1 and f1 form a sheet structure outline;
2) cutting of fur sleeve sheet
Based on the drawing of the sleeve, sewing heads are arranged along the structural outline of the sleeve to be cut, and a triangle and a trapezoid sleeve opening are cut off outside the sleeve;
3) sleeve gable tailoring
Drawing an isosceles right triangle tzu on the folded cloth, wherein the lengths of the sides tu and tz are 0.185X, extending tu to the vertex point v of the sleeve wall, the length of uv is 0.05X, taking the perpendicular line of the uz midpoint sleeve wall perpendicular point x as the perpendicular line to obtain the inner bending point y of the sleeve wall, the length of xy is 0.053X, extending xy to the outer bending point w of the sleeve wall, the length of yw is 0.031X, connecting u, y and z by smooth curves to form an inner arc line of the sleeve wall, and v, w and z form an outer arc line of the sleeve wall;
cutting according to the inner arc line and the outer arc line to obtain a sleeve gable wall;
4) sewing machine
Folding the hair sleeve sheet to align the outer arc of the small sleeve with the outer arc of the large sleeve, sewing by taking the sleeve fertilizer dead point l as a starting point, and sewing the inner arc of the small sleeve and the inner arc of the large sleeve in a matching manner;
and (3) sewing the sleeve mountain h point to the sleeve mountain wall v point, the sleeve mountain n point to the sleeve mountain wall z point, and aligning the sleeve mountain wall u point to the shoulder of the garment piece for sleeve stitching.
2. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the sleeve liner is cut by measuring the length of the sleeve sheet at 3 points, 4 points, 5 points, 6 points and cutting the upper end part of the sleeve sheet at 15 cm; measuring the length of the cuff slit to be 8.5 centimeters in the sleeve crest direction on arcs q1, o1, i and q, o2 and i to form a horizontal line, placing a sewing line on the outer side of the sleeve to generate a point 1 and a point 2, cutting the cuff adhesive interlining by taking the point 2 and the point 1 as the horizontal line, and cutting according to the cuff structure of the wool-like sleeve piece below the horizontal line.
3. The method for cutting the sleeve of the wheel as claimed in claim 2, wherein the adhesive lining cloth is aligned with the reverse side of the sleeve cloth and ironed and bonded by means of an iron pad cloth; the adhesion parameters were set as: and (4) ironing intermittently at the temperature of 120 ℃, under the pressure of 206-294 kpa and for 5 s.
CN202110003989.1A 2021-01-04 2021-01-04 Method for cutting wheel sleeves Expired - Fee Related CN112779756B (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113317578A (en) * 2021-05-28 2021-08-31 上海工程技术大学 Method for manufacturing sleeves with three-dimensional elbow guard structures
CN113317579A (en) * 2021-06-01 2021-08-31 福建七匹狼实业股份有限公司 Processing technology of cuff

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