CN112603858B - Composition and long-acting curling mascara - Google Patents

Composition and long-acting curling mascara Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112603858B
CN112603858B CN202011569397.8A CN202011569397A CN112603858B CN 112603858 B CN112603858 B CN 112603858B CN 202011569397 A CN202011569397 A CN 202011569397A CN 112603858 B CN112603858 B CN 112603858B
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mascara
long
percent
composition
acting
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CN112603858A (en
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蔡佳静
何益飞
李金萍
王宇诗
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Guangzhou Jiyan Cosmetics Technology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88Polyamides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition and long-acting curling mascara. The invention discloses a composition, which consists of malic acid, cysteine polymer and trimethylsiloxy silicate. The malic acid and cysteine ester polymer in the composition can be used as a conditioner, the trimethylsiloxy silicate ester is used as a film forming agent, and the malic acid and the cysteine ester polymer are cooperatively matched, so that the viscosity of a system is effectively improved, the viscosity of the system is proper, the smoothness of the product can be improved, the setting effect of the product is improved, and the setting effect is long-lasting.

Description

Composition and long-acting curling mascara
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition and long-acting curling mascara.
Background
Mascara is a cosmetic for applying to eyelashes, and is mainly intended to curl, thicken and set the eyelashes. The eyelashes are similar to hairs in structure and are all composed of polypeptide chains, and disulfide bonds, salt bonds, hydrogen bonds and other bonds are formed among the peptide chains to maintain the shape of the hairs. Asians have lighter natural contour, shorter hair and thinner eyelashes, and after the mascara is applied, the makeup effect of the eyelashes cannot reach the curling degree and the density of the caucasians. If the curling and shaping effects of the paste are improved, the material body needs to be adjusted by adding the film forming agent, but the viscosity degree of the material body is improved, so that the eyelashes are easy to tangle, and the effect of clear root cannot be achieved.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the present invention provides a composition for enhancing the setting effect of eyelashes, making the roots of the eyelashes clear, and maintaining the curling effect of the eyelashes for a long time, and a long-lasting mascara.
The specific technical scheme is as follows:
the invention provides a composition, which consists of malic acid, cysteine polymer and trimethylsiloxy silicate.
In the invention, the malic acid contains natural skin moistening components, and can easily dissolve 'stickies' adhered between dead cells in dry scale shape, thereby removing wrinkles on the surface of the skin and enabling the skin to be tender, white, smooth and elastic. Cysteine contains free sulfur molecules and can perform bonding exchange with disulfide bonds in hair, so that amino acid in the hair is crosslinked, and the effects of shaping and maintaining curling are achieved. The trimethylsiloxy silicate is a shaping film forming agent, is used in color cosmetic formulations such as foundation fluid, lipstick, mascara and the like, and can help make up and shape. The invention discovers that malic acid and cysteine ester polymers in the composition can be used as a conditioning agent, trimethylsiloxy silicate ester is used as a film forming agent, and the malic acid and the cysteine ester polymers and the trimethylsiloxy silicate ester are synergistic, so that the viscosity of a system can be effectively adjusted to a proper range, and the composition can be smoothly coated and shaped, and is long-lasting.
In the invention, the mass ratio of the malic acid, the cysteine polymer and the trimethylsiloxy silicate is (0.01-0.05): (0.01-0.05): (10-15). The three components in the composition are in the proportioning range, so that the viscosity of the product is improved, the smoothness of the product is improved, and the shaping effect of the product is long-lasting.
In the present invention, the cysteine polymer includes: cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol, one or more of cysteine-n-carboxyl internal anhydride polymer and b-poly-cysteine block copolymer, preferably cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol.
The invention also provides the application of the composition in preparing a shaped product.
In the present invention, the styling product includes mascara or a hair setting agent.
The composition provided by the invention is applied to a hair styling agent, so that the hair styling effect is good, and the long-acting effect is long.
The invention also provides long-acting curling mascara, which comprises the composition, wax, film forming agent, emollient, suspending agent, filler, emulsifier, tocopherol, colorant and solvent.
The long-acting warping mascara provided by the invention has high smoothness and appropriate viscosity, and the cosmetic effect of warping can be kept for 18 hours.
In the invention, the mass content of the composition in the long-acting curling mascara is 12.02-18.02%, and preferably 12.02%.
In the invention, according to the mass percentage,
0.01 to 0.05 percent of malic acid;
0.01 to 0.05 percent of cysteine polymer;
10 to 15 percent of trimethylsiloxy silicate, preferably 10 to 12 percent;
0.5 to 1 percent of tocopherol (vitamin E), preferably 0.5 percent;
the wax is 6 to 15 percent, preferably 8 to 12 percent; the wax comprises: one or more than two of microcrystalline wax, ceresin, paraffin wax, synthetic wax and white beeswax, preferably microcrystalline wax and ceresin, wherein the microcrystalline wax accounts for 5-7 percent, preferably 5 percent, and the ceresin accounts for 3-5 percent, preferably 3 percent;
the film forming agent is 0-2%, preferably 0%; the film-forming agent comprises: one or more of silicone resin, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, VP/hexadecene copolymer and polyvinylpyrrolidone, preferably silicone resin;
the suspending agent is 2 to 5 percent, preferably 2.8 to 4 percent; the suspending agent comprises: one or more of dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate, disteardimonium hectorite and modified corn starch, preferably dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate and disteardimonium hectorite, wherein dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate is 0.8-1%, preferably 0.8%, and disteardimonium hectorite is 2-3%, preferably 2%;
the filler is 4 to 12 percent, and preferably 7.7 to 11.3 percent; the filler comprises: one or more of talcum powder, nylon-6, silica, aluminum distearate, mica, bismuth oxychloride, polytetrafluoroethylene and methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer, preferably talcum powder, nylon-6, silica and aluminum distearate, wherein the talcum powder accounts for 4-6 percent, the nylon-6 accounts for 4 percent, the silica accounts for 0.5-1 percent, the silica accounts for 0.5 percent, the silica accounts for 3 percent, and the aluminum distearate accounts for 0.2-0.3 percent;
the emulsifier is 3 to 8 percent, and preferably 4 to 6 percent; the emulsifier comprises: one or more of PEG-8 dioleate, sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, inulin lauryl carbamate and sorbitan olive oleate, preferably PEG-8 dioleate and sorbitan isostearate, wherein the PEG-8 dioleate accounts for 3-4%, preferably 3%, and the sorbitan isostearate accounts for 1-2%, preferably 1%;
the colorant is 0.5 to 3 percent, and is preferably 1 percent; the colorant comprises: one or more of CI 77499, CI 77891 and CI 77288, preferably CI 77499;
the emollient is 0.1-0.6%, preferably 0.5%; the emollient includes: one or more of tridecyl alcohol trimellitate, tocopherol and hydrogenated polyisobutene, preferably tocopherol;
the solvent is used for complementing the mass percentage content of the long-acting curling mascara to 100 percent; the solvent comprises: one or more of isododecane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, and squalane, preferably isododecane.
The invention is suitable for long-acting curling mascara. The source of other raw materials in the long-acting curling mascara is not particularly limited, and the long-acting curling mascara can be prepared by self or purchased in the market. Among them, preferred is trimethylsiloxysilicate having a trade name of
Figure BDA0002862310080000031
TMS 803、DOWSIL TM MQ-1600, KF-7312L, seraSnow SP 12, or SR-1000.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the long-acting curling mascara, which comprises the following steps:
step 1: heating trimethylsiloxy silicate, solvent, wax, film-forming agent, emulsifier and suspending agent to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly mixing to obtain phase A;
step 2: cooling the phase A to 50-55 ℃, adding a filling agent and a coloring agent, and grinding the mixture to be uniform;
and step 3: and heating the ground material body to 40-45 ℃, adding malic acid, cysteine polymer and emollient, and uniformly mixing to obtain the long-acting curling mascara.
The invention also provides a hair styling agent, which comprises the composition;
the mass content of the composition in the hair styling agent is 10.02-15.1%.
According to the technical scheme, the invention has the following advantages:
the invention provides a composition, which consists of malic acid, cysteine polymer and trimethylsiloxy silicate. The malic acid and cysteine ester polymer in the composition can be used as a conditioner, the trimethylsiloxy silicate ester is used as a film forming agent, and the malic acid and the cysteine ester polymer are cooperatively matched, so that the viscosity of a system is effectively improved, the viscosity of the system is proper, the smoothness of the product can be improved, the setting effect of the product is improved, and the setting effect is long-lasting.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, features and advantages of the present invention more obvious and understandable, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it should be apparent that the embodiments described below are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be obtained by a person skilled in the art without making any creative effort based on the embodiments in the present invention, belong to the protection scope of the present invention.
In the examples of the present invention, the raw materials are commercially available, wherein trimethylsiloxysilicate is available from Movix under the trade name SR 1000.
Examples 1 to 3
Examples 1-3 are for the preparation of long-acting curling mascara, the formulation of which is shown in table 1, and the specific preparation steps are as follows:
1. heating trimethylsiloxy silicate, solvent, wax, film-forming agent, emulsifier and suspending agent to 80 ℃, and uniformly mixing to obtain phase A;
2. cooling the phase A to 50 ℃, adding a filler and a colorant, and grinding uniformly by using a three-roller grinding mill;
3. and heating the ground material body to 40 ℃, adding malic acid, cysteine polymer and emollient, and uniformly mixing to obtain the long-acting curling mascara.
Table 1 examples 1-3 formulations
Figure BDA0002862310080000041
Figure BDA0002862310080000051
Comparative examples 1 to 8
Comparative examples 1 to 8 were mascara preparations having the formulations shown in Table 2, and the specific preparation steps were the same as in examples 1 to 3.
TABLE 2 COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 1 TO 8 FORMULATIONS
Figure BDA0002862310080000061
Figure BDA0002862310080000071
Example 4
This example tests the performance of the mascaras obtained in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 8.
Testing the population:
a mascara curling and warping persistence testing method comprises the following steps: selecting 50 women, carrying out 30 +/-10 years of average age, uniformly clamping and raising two eyelashes by using an eyelash clamp, applying three times of mascara to the left eye, not applying any product to the right eye, comparing the curling difference of the two eyelashes after 18 hours, and grading the smoothness satisfaction degree when brushing the eyelashes at the first makeup time, the viscosity of the mascara, the curling maintenance performance after 18 hours and the makeup effect satisfaction degree.
The test scoring criteria were as follows:
including smoothness evaluation, evenness evaluation and liking degree.
Smoothness degree: 1 minute: the resistance is very large; and 2, dividing: the resistance is large because the roller is not smooth; and 3, dividing: the resistance is not smooth and general; and 4, dividing: smooth without resistance; and 5, dividing: is very smooth and has no resistance.
Evaluation of degree of tackiness (degree of leveling) of paste: 1 minute: very thin; and 2, dividing: generally thin; and 3, dividing: the viscosity is moderate; and 4, dividing: too sticky; and 5, dividing: too sticky and sticky, causes legs of flies.
Curl maintenance after 18 hours: 1 minute: a difference; and 2, dividing: poor performance; and 3, dividing: generally; and 4, dividing: better; and 5, dividing: good results are obtained.
The degree of liking: 1 minute: are very dislike; and 2, dividing: dislike; and 3, dividing: generally; and 4, dividing: liking; and 5, dividing: are very much preferred.
The testers score according to the scoring standards, and finally, the total scores are counted to calculate the average value, and the specific scoring results are shown in table 3.
As can be seen from Table 3, the mascaras obtained in examples 1-3 have moderate viscosity and smoothness during application, and maintain the curling effect for 18h, wherein the effect of example 1 is the best.
Use malic acid + trimethylsiloxysilicate in comparison to the comparative example 1 composition, the comparative example 2 composition using cystine bis-PG-propylsilanetriol + trimethylsiloxysilicate; compared with the composition of the comparative example 3, the film forming agent VP/hexadecene copolymer is used for replacing trimethylsiloxysilicate, the comparative example 4 is used for replacing malic acid, and the comparative example 5 is used for replacing cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol by lysine; compared with the compositions of comparative examples 7 and 8, the composition lacks cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol and malic acid in sequence, but the total dosage of the composition is the same as that of example 1, and the malic acid, trimethylsiloxysilicate and cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol are compounded in example 1, so that the synergistic effect is achieved, when the composition is applied to mascara, the smoothness degree of the mascara can be effectively improved, the shaping effect of the mascara is prolonged, and the effect difference of the mascara from comparative examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 7 to 8 is obvious.
Comparative example 6 used a composition with a higher amount of trimethylsiloxysilicate than the examples and lower amounts of malic acid and cysteamine bis-PG-propylsilanetriol than the examples. As can be seen from the results of the performance test of comparative example 6 in Table 3, the components of the composition provided by the present invention are advantageous in enhancing the smoothness of mascara and prolonging the setting effect of mascara within a certain compounding ratio range.
TABLE 3 evaluation results of various properties of mascaras prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 8
Figure BDA0002862310080000081
Figure BDA0002862310080000091
Example 5
This example tests the hardness of mascara pastes obtained in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 8.
The test method comprises the following steps:
a machine: viscometer
The range is as follows: 2kg of
An adapter: 20mm phi flat plate
Rising speed: 6 cm/min
Entering distance: 10mm
Measuring a container: 30mL ointment bottle (25 deg.C)
And (4) putting the material body bottle into a rotor, and measuring the hardness.
The measurement was carried out after placing in a 30mL ointment bottle and standing at 25 ℃ for 24 hours, and the measurement results are shown in Table 4.
From the results in table 4, it can be seen that the amount of film former used in the mascara formulation directly affects the hardness of the mascara mass. The mascara prepared by the method has moderate hardness, and the film forming agents of the embodiment 1, the embodiment 2, the comparison examples 1-2, the comparison examples 4-5 and the comparison examples 7-8 have the same dosage. Comparative example 6 the film former was used in a higher amount and its hardness was relatively higher.
Combining the results of tables 3 and 4, it can be seen that the film-forming agent used in example 2 is slightly higher than that used in example 1, and the mascara composition of example 2 has slightly higher hardness than that of example 1, but the hardness of the mascara compositions prepared in examples 1 and 2 is in a proper range and the smoothness is substantially the same; example 2 compared to comparative example 6, comparative example 6 mascara cream was used in a slightly higher amount than example 2, but comparative example 6 mascara cream was much harder than example 2. The above results show that the film forming agent trimethylsiloxysilicate in the composition provided by the embodiment of the present invention is matched with the conditioning agents malic acid and cystine bis-PG-propylsilanetriol in a certain dosage range, so that the mascara can have both proper hardness and excellent smoothness.
TABLE 4 hardness of mascaras obtained in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 8
Figure BDA0002862310080000092
Figure BDA0002862310080000101
The above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, and not to limit the same; although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it should be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that: the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments may still be modified, or some technical features may be equivalently replaced; and such modifications or substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the corresponding technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.

Claims (2)

1. The long-acting curling mascara is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
malic acid 0.01 to 0.05%;
0.01 to 0.05 percent of cysteine polymer, wherein the cysteine polymer is cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol;
10 to 12 percent of trimethylsiloxy silicate;
8% of wax;
2.8% of a suspending agent;
7.7 percent of filler;
4% of an emulsifier;
0.5% of an emollient;
0.5% of a coloring agent;
the balance being solvent;
the wax comprises: microcrystalline waxes and ceresin waxes;
the emollient is tocopherol;
the suspending agent comprises: dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate and disteardimonium hectorite;
the filler comprises: talcum powder, chinlon-6, silica and aluminum distearate;
the emulsifier comprises: PEG-8 dioleate and sorbitan isostearate;
the colorant is CI 77499;
the solvent is isododecane.
2. A method of preparing a long lasting curling mascara according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:
step 1: heating trimethylsiloxy silicate, a solvent, wax, an emulsifier and a suspending agent to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly mixing to obtain a phase A;
step 2: cooling the phase A to 50-55 ℃, adding a filler and a colorant, and grinding;
and step 3: and heating the ground material body to 40-45 ℃, adding malic acid, cysteine polymer and emollient, and uniformly mixing to obtain the long-acting curling mascara.
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Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105726355A (en) * 2016-03-24 2016-07-06 四川力久知识产权服务有限公司 Long-eyelashes mascara and preparation method thereof

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US20070154439A1 (en) * 2006-01-04 2007-07-05 Paula Dorf Cosmetic composition for use around the eyes
KR20140022378A (en) * 2011-01-31 2014-02-24 가부시끼가이샤 기꾸보시 Hairstyling agent composition
US20140261518A1 (en) * 2013-03-13 2014-09-18 Zotos International, Inc. Formulations and methods for straightening and revitalizing hair
DE202016000077U1 (en) * 2015-12-08 2016-12-11 MAG Cosmetics GmbH Hair treatment preparations, in particular hair care preparations
CN109745250A (en) * 2019-03-14 2019-05-14 普宁市嘉宝日用化工有限公司 It is a kind of beautiful by own waterproof mascara and preparation method thereof

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105726355A (en) * 2016-03-24 2016-07-06 四川力久知识产权服务有限公司 Long-eyelashes mascara and preparation method thereof

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