CN112399846A - Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents
Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic Download PDFInfo
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- CN112399846A CN112399846A CN201980046468.5A CN201980046468A CN112399846A CN 112399846 A CN112399846 A CN 112399846A CN 201980046468 A CN201980046468 A CN 201980046468A CN 112399846 A CN112399846 A CN 112399846A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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Abstract
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic which has a rich texture, yet has a feeling of use that is water-like and moist after phase inversion, and also has excellent emulsion stability. The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic characterized by containing: at least 1 kind selected from high molecular weight polyether modified organosilicon with a specific structure, (B) organosilicon surfactant with HLB of 2-5 (wherein, the (A) is excluded), (C) organic modified clay mineral, (D) 72-83 mass% of water phase, and (E) oil agent, wherein the (E) oil agent comprises (E1) at least 1 kind selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oil and low-polar hydrocarbon oil, and (E2) at least 1 kind of silicone oil.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic. More specifically, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic which has a rich texture but can impart a watery texture such as a watery texture when applied.
Background
Water-in-oil emulsion compositions containing an oil phase as the continuous phase (external phase) and an aqueous phase as the dispersed phase (internal phase) are formulations suitable for external skin preparations because they can effectively spread oil-soluble active ingredients, such as emollients, oil-soluble drugs, ultraviolet absorbers, etc., on the skin, and are widely used in the cosmetic field, for example, as skin creams, lotions, or hair creams.
In general, water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics contain solid or semisolid oils such as wax in order to impart a thick feel to the skin when applied and to impart tenderness to the skin. However, a thick feel can be obtained by blending a solid oil or the like, but it is extremely difficult to satisfy a feeling of use with moisture at the same time.
Patent document 1 discloses that an external preparation for skin obtained by blending (b) an ester of hydrogenated castor oil and a higher fatty acid together with (a) a microgel containing a synthetic polyelectrolyte (acrylamide copolymer) produced by reverse microemulsion polymerization of a water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomer as a thickener and (b) a high-molecular weight polymer as a main component, has a feeling of use that combines a moist feeling and a thick feeling. However, it is considered that the water-moist feeling in patent document 1 is caused only by the water contained in the hydrophilic thickener microgel, and does not give a feeling like a water sample when applied.
On the other hand, as a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic excellent in water-moist feeling, patent document 2 discloses a high internal water phase emulsion cosmetic containing glucomannan, an emulsifier containing a polyether-modified silicone having a specific structure, and 50.0% by weight or more of water. Patent document 3 discloses an emulsion cosmetic prepared by blending a polyether-modified silicone, a silicone oil and/or a nonpolar oil, and water, as in patent document 2.
The high internal water phase emulsion cosmetic described in patent document 2 is a water-in-oil emulsion, but when applied to the skin, it changes phase instantaneously to give a feeling like a water sample, and the emulsion cosmetic described in patent document 3 is characterized by being easily spreadable, moist and not sticky. However, these cosmetics lack a rich touch, and when a solid oil is blended in order to impart a rich touch, the original water-moist touch is lost. Further, since the polyether-modified silicone is used as the only emulsifier, the emulsion stability tends to be lowered when the amount of the oil component is increased.
Documents of the prior art
Patent document
Patent document 1: japanese patent laid-open No. 2007-39360
Patent document 2: japanese patent laid-open No. 2001-58937
Patent document 3: japanese patent laid-open No. 8-268831
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, and an object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic which has a rich texture but has a feeling of use such as watery texture after phase inversion and also has excellent emulsion stability.
Means for solving the problems
As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that a polyether-modified silicone having a specific structure, an organically modified clay mineral, and a specific silicone surfactant are combined and blended in a high internal water phase water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic containing a large amount of an aqueous phase, and a nonpolar or low polar hydrocarbon oil and a silicone oil are blended as an oil agent, whereby a rich feel, a water-moist feel, and emulsion stability can be satisfied, and have completed the present invention.
That is, the present invention provides a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic comprising:
(A) at least 1 kind selected from the group consisting of high molecular weight polyether-modified silicones represented by the following formula (1):
[ in formula (1), A is selected from the group consisting of methyl, phenyl and general formula: -C3H6O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)bR '(wherein R' is a group selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, an acyl group and an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a is an integer of 5 to 50; b is an integer of 5 to 50), at least one of 3A is a polyoxyalkylene group,
r is a methyl group or a phenyl group,
m is an integer of 50 to 1000,
n is an integer of 1 to 40,
a polyoxyalkylene group having a molecular weight of 30000 or more and containing 40 mass% or more in a molecule ];
(B) an organosilicon surfactant having an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic Balance) of 2 to 5 (excluding those satisfying the above (A));
(C) an organically modified clay mineral;
(D)72 to 83 mass% of an aqueous phase; and
(E) an oil agent;
the oil agent (E) contains (E1) at least 1 hydrocarbon oil selected from a nonpolar hydrocarbon oil and a low-polarity hydrocarbon oil, and (E2) at least 1 silicone oil.
The present invention also encompasses a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic comprising at least 1 kind of crosslinked polyether-modified silicone represented by the following formula (2) in place of or in addition to the above-mentioned (a) high molecular weight polyether silicone.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
According to the water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, not only can a thick feeling be imparted when it is applied to the skin and a watery feeling be imparted, but also the emulsion stability is excellent and a non-sticky, good spreadability and refreshing feeling in use can be imparted. Further, since it is not necessary to blend a solid oil such as wax which is conventionally used in cosmetics to impart a thick feel, it can be produced by a simple method without a heating step.
The "thick feeling" in the present specification means that the preparation has a feeling of remaining after being applied to the skin as if the preparation covered the skin.
Detailed Description
The water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic of the present invention (hereinafter, also simply referred to as "emulsion cosmetic") contains: (A) at least 1 polyether modified organosilicon selected from high molecular weight polyether modified organosilicon with a specific structure and crosslinking polyether modified organosilicon with a specific structure, (B) organosilicon surfactant with HLB of 2-5, (C) organic modified clay mineral, (D) water phase and (E) oil agent. Hereinafter, each component will be described in detail.
(A) Polyether modified organic silicon
The polyether-modified silicone to be incorporated in the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is at least 1 selected from high molecular weight polyether-modified silicones represented by the following formula (1); and/or at least 1 selected from the crosslinking polyether-modified silicones represented by the following formula (2) (also referred to as "polyether-modified silicone of specific structure" or "component a" in the present specification).
[ in formula (1), A is selected from the group consisting of methyl, phenyl and general formula: -C3H6O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)bR '(wherein R' is selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, an acyl group and an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms)A group of the group; a is an integer of 5-50; b is an integer of 5 to 50), at least one of 3A is a polyoxyalkylene group,
r is a methyl group or a phenyl group,
m is an integer of 50 to 1000,
n is an integer of 1 to 40,
the polyether-modified silicone contains a polyoxyalkylene group in an amount of 40 mass% or more in the molecule, and the polyether-modified silicone has a molecular weight of 30000 or more ].
[ in the formula (2), l is a number of 3 to 20; m is a number of 10 to 200; n is a number of 1.0 to 10.0 ].
With respect to the high molecular weight polyether-modified silicone of the above formula (1), specific examples of the acyl group of R' in the formula (1) include: formyl, acetyl, propionyl, butyryl, acryloyl, benzoyl, toluyl, and alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and specific examples of the alkyl group include methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, tert-butyl, and n-butyl.
In the case where the number of the polyoxyalkylene groups in the formula (1) is less than 5, the polyether-modified silicone does not exhibit a sufficient thickening effect, and in the case where a or b exceeds 50, the obtained emulsified cosmetic gives a sticky feeling.
The polyoxyalkylene content in 1 molecule is preferably 40 mass% or more, and particularly preferably in the range of 40 to 70 mass%. When the content of the polyoxyalkylene group is less than 40% by mass, the emulsifying ability with respect to nonpolar oils other than silicone oil may be reduced, and when it exceeds 70% by mass, the obtained emulsified cosmetic may be sticky.
When m is less than 50 and n is less than 1 in formula (1), the thickening effect becomes insufficient, and when m exceeds 1000 and n exceeds 40, the obtained emulsified cosmetic has a sticky touch.
The high molecular weight polyether-modified silicone (formula (1)) used in the present invention has a molecular weight of 30000 or more, preferably 50000 or more. This is because if the molecular weight of the polyether-modified silicone is less than 30000, the emulsifying ability for nonpolar oil components other than silicone oil is reduced.
A particularly preferred example of the high molecular weight polyether-modified silicone according to formula (1) includes PEG/PPG-19/19, i.e., a compound having a structure in which a part of the methyl groups of polydimethylsiloxane is substituted with a polyoxyalkylene group, and the average polymerization degrees of oxyethylene and oxypropylene groups are each 19. This compound corresponds to the compound of formula (1) wherein R is methyl, a is 19 and b is 19 (wherein the bonding order of oxyethylene and oxypropylene groups in the polyoxyalkylene group is not limited, and these groups may be bonded alternately, and at least a part of these groups may form a polyoxyethylene block and/or a polyoxypropylene block.
The crosslinking polyether-modified silicone represented by formula (2) is a crosslinked polymer obtained by crosslinking methylhydrogenpolysiloxane with diallyl polyether at both ends. In actual use, it is preferable that 10 to 1000 parts by weight, preferably 20 to 500 parts by weight, of a low viscosity silicone oil having a viscosity of 100 mPas or less at 25 ℃ is kneaded under a shearing force to 100 parts by weight of the crosslinked polymer to prepare a paste composition. The low-viscosity silicone oil used for preparing the paste composition may be either linear or branched, and examples thereof include methyl polysiloxane (polydimethylsiloxane), methyl phenyl polysiloxane (diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane), ethyl polysiloxane, methyl ethyl polysiloxane, ethyl phenyl polysiloxane, cyclic dimethyl polysiloxane such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and these may be present alone or in a mixture of 2 or more.
The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may contain 1 or a combination of 2 or more of either or both of the high molecular weight polyether-modified silicone represented by the above formula (1) and the crosslinking polyether-modified silicone represented by the above formula (2) (i.e., polyether-modified silicone having a specific structure). Particularly preferred is a high molecular weight polyether-modified silicone containing at least 1 kind of the polyether represented by the formula (1).
The amount of the polyether-modified silicone (component a) having a specific structure in the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.3% by mass or more based on the actual solid content. If the amount is less than 0.3 mass%, the emulsion stability may be lowered. The amount of the surfactant is preferably 0.4 to 1.8% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by mass.
(B) Organic silicon surfactant with HLB of 2-5
The component B in the emulsified cosmetic is a silicone surfactant, and the HLB value of the silicone surfactant is within the range of 2-5. The "silicone surfactant" in the present invention refers to a nonionic surfactant having an organosilicon structure (hydrophobic portion) and a hydrophilic portion in the molecule.
Specific examples of the silicone surfactant that can be preferably used in the present invention include: poly (oxyethylene/oxypropylene) methylpolysiloxane copolymers, polyoxyethylene methylpolysiloxane copolymers, silicone chain branched methylpolysiloxane copolymers, alkyl chain branched polyoxyethylene methylpolysiloxane copolymers, alkyl chain/silicone chain branched polyoxyethylene methylpolysiloxane copolymers, crosslinked polyoxyethylene methylpolysiloxanes, alkyl group-containing crosslinked polyoxyethylene methylpolysiloxanes, branched polyglycerol-modified silicones, crosslinked polyglycerol-modified silicones, alkyl group-containing crosslinked polyglycerol-modified silicones, alkyl branched polyglycerol-modified silicones, and the like, but are not limited thereto.
In the polyether-modified silicone having a specific structure represented by the above formula (1) or (2), there may be a polyether-modified silicone having an HLB value of 2 to 5, but in the present invention, the polyether-modified silicone (component a) having a specific structure corresponding to the formula (1) or (2) is excluded from the silicone surfactant (component B).
More specific examples include: PEG-9 Dimethylsilalkoxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, lauryl PEG-9 Dimethylsilalkoxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-9 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-3 polydimethylsiloxane, and the like, but are not limited thereto.
The amount of the silicone surfactant (component B) blended in the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.3% by mass or more. If the amount is less than 0.3 mass%, the emulsion stability may be lowered. The amount of the surfactant is preferably 0.4 to 1.8% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by mass.
(C) Organically modified clay mineral
The organically modified clay mineral (component C) used for the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is one of colloidal aqueous aluminum silicates having a three-layer structure, and is usually obtained by modifying a clay mineral represented by the following general formula (3) with a quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactant.
(X,Y)2-3(Si,Al)4O10(OH)2Z1/3·nH2O (3)
(wherein X ═ Al, Fe (III), Mn (III) or Cr (III); Y ═ Mg, Fe (II), Ni, Zn or Li; Z ═ K, Na or Ca).
Specifically, clay minerals such as natural or synthetic montmorillonite groups (in this case, the (OH) group in the formula is substituted with fluorine) such as montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite, etc. (commercially available products are Veegum, Kunipia, Laponite, etc.), and synthetic micas known by the names of sodium silicon mica, sodium or lithium mica (commercially available products are Dimonite: copy Industries, Ltd., etc.) can be obtained by treating them with a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant.
The quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactant used herein is represented by the following general formula (3).
(in the formula, R1Represents an alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; r2Represents a methyl group or an alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms; r3And R4Represents an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms; x represents a halogen atom or methyl sulfideAcid ester residue).
Examples of the quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactant include: dodecyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, myristyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, eicosyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, myristyl dimethyl ethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl dimethyl ethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl ethyl ammonium chloride, arachidyl dimethyl ethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl dimethyl ethyl ammonium chloride, myristyl diethyl methyl ammonium chloride, cetyl diethyl methyl ammonium chloride, stearyl diethyl methyl ammonium chloride, arachidyl diethyl methyl ammonium chloride, behenyl diethyl methyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethyl myristyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethyl cetyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethyl behenyl ammonium chloride, benzyl methyl ethyl cetyl ammonium chloride, benzyl methyl ethyl stearyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethyl behenyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethyl lauryl ammonium chloride, benzyl methyl ethyl stearyl ammonium chloride, Behenyl dihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, the corresponding bromide, and the like, and dipalmityl propyl ethyl ammonium methyl sulfate, and the like are further included. In the practice of the present invention, 1 or 2 or more of these are arbitrarily selected.
Typical examples of the organically modified clay mineral include: dimethyl alkylammonium hectorite, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride-treated aluminum magnesium silicate, and the like. Preferred commercially available products include BENTONE 27 (benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride-treated hectorite, manufactured by The National LEAD Co.) and BENTONE 38 (dimethyldistearylammonium-modified hectorite, manufactured by The National L.E.A.D.).
The amount of the organically modified clay mineral (component C) blended in the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably more than 0.5 mass% and less than 2.5 mass%. When the blending amount is 0.5% by mass or less or 2.5% by mass or more, the emulsion stability tends to be lowered. The amount of the surfactant is preferably 0.8 to 2.2% by mass, and more preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by mass.
(D) Aqueous phase
The aqueous phase (component D) in the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains water and a water-soluble component. The water can be ion-exchanged water, purified water, natural water, etc., which are commonly used in cosmetics. The water-soluble component is a substance that can be mixed with water, and typical examples thereof include lower alcohols and polyhydric alcohols.
The lower alcohol is an alcohol having 5 or less carbon atoms, and examples thereof include: methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, and the like.
Examples of the polyhydric alcohol include: dihydric alcohols (e.g., ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 2, 3-butanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 2-butene-1, 4-diol, hexanediol, octanediol, etc.); trihydric alcohols (e.g., glycerin, trimethylolpropane, etc.); tetrahydric alcohols (e.g., pentaerythritol such as 1,2, 6-hexanetriol); pentahydric alcohols (e.g., xylitol (also belonging to sugar alcohols), etc.); hexahydric alcohols (e.g., sorbitol, mannitol (also both sugar alcohols), and the like); polyol polymers (e.g., diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, polyglycerin, and the like); glycol alkyl ethers (e.g., ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether (phenoxyethanol), ethylene glycol monohexyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-2-methylhexyl ether, ethylene glycol isoamyl ether, ethylene glycol benzyl ether, ethylene glycol isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, ethylene glycol diethyl ether, ethylene glycol dibutyl ether, etc.); glycol condensation polymer alkyl ethers (e.g., diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol diethyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, etc.); glycol ether esters (e.g., ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol diadipate, ethylene glycol disuccinate, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monopropyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate, etc.); glycerol monoalkyl ethers (e.g., Chimyl Alcohol (Chimyl Alcohol), batyl Alcohol, etc.); sugar alcohols (e.g., reducing alcohols such as sorbitol, maltitol, maltotriose, mannitol, sucrose, erythritol, glucose, fructose, amylolytic sugar, maltose, xylitol, amylolysis, etc.); glysolid; tetrahydrofuran methanol; POE-tetrahydrofuran methanol, POP-butyl ether; POP POE butyl ether; glyceryl tripropylene oxide ether; POP-glycerol ether; POP-glyceryl ether phosphoric acid; POP POE pentaerythritol ether, polyglycerine, etc.
The other water-soluble components include various salts, various water-soluble drugs (e.g., moisturizers, preservatives, thickeners, etc.), and are not particularly limited. The amount of the surfactant is within a range not to impair the effects of the present invention. In addition, the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is stable without incorporating glucomannan (1 type of water-soluble thickener) which is an essential component in patent document 2, and can give a feeling of use (phase inversion feeling) like a water sample after phase inversion, and therefore the present invention also includes a mode in which glucomannan is not incorporated.
The amount of the aqueous phase (component D) in the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is necessarily 72 to 83 mass%. When the amount of the aqueous phase is outside the above range, a phase inversion feeling cannot be obtained or stable emulsification cannot be obtained. The amount of the aqueous phase is preferably 72.5 to 82 mass%, more preferably 73 to 81 mass%.
The water, the polyol and the humectant preferably account for at least 80 mass%, preferably at least 90 mass%, and more preferably at least 95 mass% of the aqueous phase (component D).
The oil agent (component E) in the present invention comprises (E1) at least 1 hydrocarbon oil selected from a nonpolar hydrocarbon oil and a low-polarity hydrocarbon oil, and (E2) at least 1 silicone oil.
(e1) At least 1 hydrocarbon oil selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon oils and low-polarity hydrocarbon oils
The (e1 component) in the present invention is a hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃), and generally, it is only necessary to use a known nonpolar oil or low-polarity oil. In the field of cosmetics, for example, hydrogenated polydecene, mineral oil, liquid paraffin, isoparaffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and the like are known as nonpolar or low-polarity liquid oils.
In the present invention, at least 1 hydrocarbon oil (e1 component) selected from the group consisting of nonpolar hydrocarbon oils and low-polarity hydrocarbon oils is hereinafter generally referred to as "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil", and for convenience, is defined as "hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at room temperature and has an IOB (Inorganic Organic Balance) value of 0.15 or less". The IOB Value is a Value (IV/OV ═ IOB (Organic mineral balance)) obtained from a ratio of an Organic Value (OV) to an Inorganic Value (Inorganic Value ═ IV) in an Organic conceptual diagram (written by jiatian cheng et al, "new edition Organic conceptual diagram-basis and application-," three publications, published in 2008).
The "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" (component e1) defined above contains, in addition to the liquid oil, ester oils such as stearyl stearate (IOB ═ 0.08), octyldodecyl myristate (IOB ═ 0.09), octyl palmitate (IOB ═ 0.13), cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate (IOB ═ 0.13), cetyl octanoate (IOB ═ 0.13), trimethylolpropane triisostearate (IOB ═ 0.14), isotridecyl isononanoate (IOB ═ 0.14); paraffin oils such as light isoparaffin, light liquid isoparaffin, and liquid paraffin; hydrocarbon oils such as α -olefin oligomers, and the like.
(e2) Silicone oil
The silicone oil (component e2) is a liquid silicone oil at room temperature, and examples thereof include chain silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane (polydimethylsiloxane), methylphenylpolysiloxane (diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane), and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and cyclic silicone oils such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
In the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, the ratio [ (e1)/{ (e1) + (e2) } of the amount of the (e1) hydrocarbon oil blended to the total amount of the (e1) nonpolar hydrocarbon oil and the (e2) silicone oil blended is preferably adjusted to be in the range of 0.3 to 0.65, more preferably in the range of 0.32 to 0.64, and particularly preferably in the range of 0.34 to 0.62. As long as the ratio [ (e1)/{ (e1) + (e2) } ] is in the range of 0.3 to 0.65, it is possible to take any value (range), of which the range of 0.4 to 0.5 is most preferable.
In the oil agent (component E) of the present invention, any oily component selected from oils and fats, waxes, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, highly polar hydrocarbon oils (liquid hydrocarbon oils having an IOB value exceeding 0.15), and the like can be blended as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired, in addition to the essential components (E1) nonpolar hydrocarbon oils and (E2) silicone oils.
The amount of the oil agent (component E) in the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is usually 10 to 30% by mass, preferably 12 to 28% by mass, and more preferably 15 to 24% by mass.
The total amount of the nonpolar hydrocarbon (E1) and the silicone oil (E2) is preferably 80% by mass or more, more preferably 90% by mass or more, and still more preferably 95% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the oil agent (E component), and there may be a case where the oil agent (E component) consists only of the nonpolar hydrocarbon (E1) and the silicone oil (E2).
The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may contain, as necessary, any other optional ingredients generally used in cosmetics, for example, a metal ion chelating agent, a powder component, a pH adjuster, an ultraviolet absorber, a skin nutrient, a vitamin, an antioxidant aid, a perfume, etc., within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention, but is not limited thereto.
The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a conventional method for a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, and the method for emulsification is not particularly limited. For example, the following methods are used: heating the water phase and the oil phase as required, slowly adding the water phase into the oil phase, emulsifying with an emulsifying machine, and cooling to room temperature while heating. In particular, in the mode of the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention not containing a solid oil component, since the heating step is not required, the step can be simplified.
The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be widely applied to various types of cosmetics, and is provided in a form suitable for use as, for example, an emulsion, a cream, a foundation, an emulsion foundation, or the like having a water-moist feeling of use.
Examples
The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. The amount to be blended is expressed as% by mass unless otherwise specified.
Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics (samples) were prepared according to the formulations shown in tables 1 to 5 below, and each sample was evaluated. The evaluation items, evaluation methods, and evaluation criteria are as follows. The evaluation results are shown in tables 1 to 5.
Evaluation item (1): sense of phase inversion
The evaluation method comprises the following steps: the sample was applied to the face by 10 professional functional examiners, and whether or not the sample was applied as a water-like touch (phase inversion).
Evaluation criteria:
a: among 10 functional examiners, 9 or more answers had phase inversion feeling.
A: among 10 functional examiners, 7 or more answers and less than 9 answers had phase inversion feeling.
B: among 10 functional examiners, 5 or more and less than 7 responses had phase inversion feeling.
C: out of 10 functional examiners, less than 5 responses had phase inversion sensation.
Evaluation item (2): emulsion stability
The evaluation method comprises the following steps: the hardness and appearance of the samples stored at 25 ℃ and 40 ℃ for 1 month were compared with those of the samples immediately after preparation, and the stability was evaluated.
Evaluation criteria:
a: the decrease in hardness was 10% or less under any storage conditions, and no change in appearance was observed.
A: under any storage conditions, no change in appearance was observed, but only a 10% or more decrease in hardness was observed when the film was stored at 40 ℃.
B: under any storage conditions, no change in appearance was observed, but a 10% or more decrease in hardness was observed.
B: in appearance, little separation of water or oil was found.
C: within 1 month, separation of water or oil was observed in appearance.
Evaluation item (3): has no sticky feeling
The evaluation method comprises the following steps: the sample was applied to the face by 10 professional functional examiners, and the feeling of use during application was evaluated.
Evaluation criteria:
a: among 10 functional examiners, 9 or more answered no sticky feeling.
A: among 10 functional examiners, 7 or more and less than 9 were answered without sticky feeling.
B: among 10 functional examiners, 5 or more and less than 7 were answered without sticky feeling.
C: less than 5 out of 10 functional examiners responded without sticky feeling.
Evaluation item (4): tenderness of the skin
The evaluation method comprises the following steps: the sample was applied to the face by 10 professional functional examiners, and the feeling of use during application was evaluated.
Evaluation criteria:
a: among 10 functional examiners, 9 or more answer skin tender.
A: among 10 functional examiners, 7 or more and less than 9 were answered to tender skin.
B: among 10 functional examiners, 5 or more but less than 7 responded to tender skin.
C: out of 10 functional examiners, less than 5 responded to skin tenderness.
Evaluation item (5): moisturizing effect
The evaluation method comprises the following steps: the sample was applied to the face by 10 professional functional examiners, and the feeling of use during application was evaluated.
Evaluation criteria:
a: more than 9 out of 10 functional examiners responded with moisturizing effect.
A: among 10 panelists, 7 or more and less than 9 responses had moisturizing effect.
B: among 10 panelists, 5 or more and less than 7 responses were answered with moisturizing effect.
C: less than 5 out of 10 functional examiners had moisturizing effect.
Evaluation item (6): feeling of thickness
The evaluation method comprises the following steps: the sample was applied to the face by 10 professional functional examiners, and the feeling of use during application was evaluated.
Evaluation criteria:
a: among 10 functional examiners, 9 or more answers had a rich feeling.
A: among 10 functional examiners, 7 or more but less than 9 responses had a rich feeling.
B: among 10 functional examiners, 5 or more but less than 7 responses had a rich feeling.
C: less than 5 out of 10 functional examiners had thick responses.
[ Table 1]
[ Table 2]
[ Table 3]
[ Table 4]
[ Table 5]
Next, in the formulation of sample "1 to 3" in Table 1 above, a high molecular weight polyether-modified silicone of formula (1) was replaced with a crosslinked polyether-modified silicone ((polydimethylsiloxane/(PEG-10/15)) crosslinked polymer having a structure not conforming to formula (2); trade name: KSG 210; manufactured by shin-Etsu chemical Co., Ltd.), and samples were prepared according to the formulation and subjected to the same evaluation as described above.
As shown in Table 6 below, sample "6-1" using a polyether-modified silicone having neither a structure according to formula (1) nor a structure according to formula (2) failed to be emulsified stably. In addition, in the sample "6-2" emulsified by adjusting the amount of oil and the amount of water in the sample "6-1", the phase inversion characteristic of the present invention could not be obtained, and a feeling like a water sample (phase inversion feeling) was obtained. That is, the present invention was demonstrated to be a specific effect obtained by selecting a polyether-modified silicone having a specific structure represented by formula (1) or (2) among polyether-modified silicones.
[ Table 6]
Claims (5)
1. A water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic characterized by comprising:
(A) at least 1 kind selected from the group consisting of high molecular weight polyether-modified silicones represented by the following formula (1):
in formula (1), A is selected from the group consisting of methyl, phenyl and the general formula: -C3H6O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)bR ' represents a polyoxyalkylene group, at least one of 3A's is a polyoxyalkylene group, wherein R ' is a group selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, an acyl group and an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a is an integer of 5 to 50, b is an integer of 5 to 50,
r is a methyl group or a phenyl group,
m is an integer of 50 to 1000,
n is an integer of 1 to 40,
a polyoxyalkylene group having a molecular weight of 30000 or more and containing 40 mass% or more of the molecule;
(B) a silicone surfactant having an HLB of 2 to 5, wherein (A) is excluded;
(C) an organically modified clay mineral;
(D)72 to 83 mass% of an aqueous phase; and
(E) an oil agent;
the oil agent (E) comprises (E1) at least 1 hydrocarbon oil selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon oils and low-polarity hydrocarbon oils, and (E2) at least 1 silicone oil.
2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein a ratio of a blending amount of the (e1) hydrocarbon oil to a total blending amount of the (e1) hydrocarbon oil and the (e2) silicone oil [ (e1)/{ (e1) + (e2) } is in a range of 0.3 to 0.65.
3. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the high molecular weight polyether-modified silicone (A) is 0.5 to 1.5% by mass.
4. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the silicone surfactant (B) blended is 0.5 to 1.5% by mass.
5. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (C) organically modified clay mineral is 1.0 to 2.0% by mass.
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| JP2018-136276 | 2018-07-20 | ||
| JP2018136276 | 2018-07-20 | ||
| PCT/JP2019/028378 WO2020017618A1 (en) | 2018-07-20 | 2019-07-19 | Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic material |
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| CN112399846A true CN112399846A (en) | 2021-02-23 |
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| CN201980046468.5A Pending CN112399846A (en) | 2018-07-20 | 2019-07-19 | Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic |
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| JP (1) | JP7342001B2 (en) |
| CN (1) | CN112399846A (en) |
| TW (1) | TW202010487A (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2020017618A1 (en) |
Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2001220311A (en) * | 2000-02-07 | 2001-08-14 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Water-in-oil type high internal water phase emulsion cosmetic |
| JP2004269418A (en) * | 2003-03-07 | 2004-09-30 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Cosmetic |
| CN102218022A (en) * | 2010-04-14 | 2011-10-19 | 信越化学工业株式会社 | Water-releasing cosmetic makeup material |
| JP2012012351A (en) * | 2010-07-02 | 2012-01-19 | Nikko Chemical Co Ltd | Water-in-oil type emulsifier composition and water-in-oil type emulsion composition using the composition, and cosmetic |
Family Cites Families (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP3580384B2 (en) * | 1995-03-31 | 2004-10-20 | 株式会社資生堂 | Emulsified cosmetic |
| JP2000239119A (en) * | 1999-02-18 | 2000-09-05 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Cosmetic |
| CN102762193A (en) * | 2010-02-12 | 2012-10-31 | 株式会社资生堂 | Water-in-oil emulsion-type cosmetic preparation |
| JP2012072085A (en) * | 2010-09-29 | 2012-04-12 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic |
| WO2012086579A1 (en) | 2010-12-21 | 2012-06-28 | 株式会社 資生堂 | W/o emulsion type cosmetic |
| ES2717287T3 (en) * | 2013-10-31 | 2019-06-20 | Oreal | Composition in the form of an emulsion |
| JP6588345B2 (en) | 2016-01-18 | 2019-10-09 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic |
| EP3560481A4 (en) * | 2016-12-21 | 2020-08-19 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic |
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- 2019-07-19 JP JP2020531372A patent/JP7342001B2/en active Active
- 2019-07-19 TW TW108125608A patent/TW202010487A/en unknown
- 2019-07-19 CN CN201980046468.5A patent/CN112399846A/en active Pending
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Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2001220311A (en) * | 2000-02-07 | 2001-08-14 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Water-in-oil type high internal water phase emulsion cosmetic |
| JP2004269418A (en) * | 2003-03-07 | 2004-09-30 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Cosmetic |
| CN102218022A (en) * | 2010-04-14 | 2011-10-19 | 信越化学工业株式会社 | Water-releasing cosmetic makeup material |
| JP2012012351A (en) * | 2010-07-02 | 2012-01-19 | Nikko Chemical Co Ltd | Water-in-oil type emulsifier composition and water-in-oil type emulsion composition using the composition, and cosmetic |
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| WO2020017618A1 (en) | 2020-01-23 |
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| JP7342001B2 (en) | 2023-09-11 |
| JPWO2020017618A1 (en) | 2021-08-02 |
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