CN112120957B - Oily cosmetic - Google Patents
Oily cosmetic Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN112120957B CN112120957B CN202010573709.6A CN202010573709A CN112120957B CN 112120957 B CN112120957 B CN 112120957B CN 202010573709 A CN202010573709 A CN 202010573709A CN 112120957 B CN112120957 B CN 112120957B
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- oily cosmetic
- retinol
- mass
- ascorbic acid
- powder
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 252
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- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 154
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 138
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 13-cis retinol Natural products OCC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 130
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- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 6
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/671—Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
- A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention provides an oily cosmetic material which has excellent retinol stability and excellent wrinkle concealing effect. The oily cosmetic comprises: retinol; at least one compound selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and salts of ascorbic acid; spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less; and an oil agent, wherein the content of the spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less is 10 mass% or more and less than 50 mass% relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic.
Background
Vitamin a is known to be an effective ingredient for preventing and treating keratosis, preventing and recovering skin aging, and the like. Among the vitamin a groups, retinol is particularly effective for improving wrinkles, and thus is often blended into cosmetic materials for the purpose of fundamentally improving wrinkles.
For example, patent document 1 discloses a cosmetic material comprising a specific amount of retinol, a specific amount of a water-soluble antioxidant, and a specific amount of an oil-soluble antioxidant.
Patent document 2 discloses a cosmetic material comprising retinol and a water-swellable clay mineral.
Patent document 3 discloses a cosmetic material comprising retinol and polyvinyl alcohol fine particles having a specific average particle diameter.
Patent document 4 discloses a cosmetic material obtained by blending a vitamin a oil containing retinol and a powder raw material into a semisolid dosage form containing an inulin fatty acid ester and a cyclic silicone.
Patent document 1: japanese patent application laid-open No. 2006-503000
Patent document 2: japanese patent laid-open No. 6-032721
Patent document 3: japanese patent application laid-open No. 2010-143830
Patent document 4: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2005-104894
However, retinol is extremely unstable in structure and is liable to cause isomerization, decomposition, polymerization, etc. due to light, air, heat, metal ions, etc. Therefore, it is difficult to contain retinol in a stable state in cosmetic materials.
In conventional cosmetic materials, for example, attempts have been made to ensure the stability of retinol by using retinol together with a specific antioxidant, and the cosmetic materials described in patent document 1 and the cosmetic materials described in patent document 2 each include ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. However, the stabilizing effect of retinol based on ascorbic acid cannot be said to be sufficient.
On the other hand, there is a demand for a cosmetic material which can improve the effect of reducing wrinkles (hereinafter, also referred to as "wrinkle concealing effect") by applying (for example, coating) the cosmetic material to the wrinkles in addition to the effect of improving wrinkles based on an active ingredient such as retinol.
Disclosure of Invention
An object of an embodiment of the present invention is to provide an oily cosmetic excellent in stability of retinol and excellent in wrinkle-concealing effect.
A specific method for solving the above-described problems includes the following embodiments.
[1] An oily cosmetic comprising:
retinol;
at least one compound selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and salts of ascorbic acid;
spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less; and
Oiling agent, and
the content of the spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less is 10 mass% or more and less than 50 mass% relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic material.
[2] The oily cosmetic according to [1], wherein the content of retinol is 0.001 mass% or more and 1 mass% or less relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
[3] The oily cosmetic according to [1] or [2], wherein the total content of ascorbic acid and a salt of ascorbic acid is 0.002% by mass or more and 2% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
[4] The oily cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less is at least one powder selected from the group consisting of silica, a crosslinked silicone polymer and a crosslinked hydrocarbon polymer.
[5] The oily cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less is at least one powder selected from the group consisting of silica and a crosslinked silicone polymer.
[6] The oily cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein the spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less is a powder of silica.
Effects of the invention
According to one embodiment of the present invention, there is provided an oily cosmetic excellent in stability of retinol and excellent in wrinkle-concealing effect.
Detailed Description
An example of an embodiment of an oily cosmetic to which the present invention is applied will be described below. However, the present invention is not limited to the following embodiments, and can be implemented with appropriate modifications within the scope of the object of the present invention.
In the present invention, the numerical range indicated by the term "to" refers to a range in which numerical values described before and after the term "to" are included as a minimum value and a maximum value, respectively.
In the numerical ranges described in stages in the present invention, the upper limit or the lower limit described in a certain numerical range may be replaced with the upper limit or the lower limit of the numerical range described in other stages. In the numerical ranges described in the present invention, the upper limit value or the lower limit value of a certain numerical range may be replaced with the value shown in the embodiment.
In the present invention, a combination of two or more preferred modes is a more preferred mode.
In the present invention, when a plurality of substances corresponding to the respective components are present in the oily cosmetic, unless otherwise specified, the amount of the respective components in the oily cosmetic means the total amount of the plurality of substances present in the oily cosmetic.
In the present invention, the term "process" includes not only an independent process but also the term if the intended purpose of the process can be achieved even if the process cannot be clearly distinguished from other processes.
In the present invention, "ascorbic acid and salts of ascorbic acid" are sometimes collectively referred to as "ascorbic acid compounds".
[ oily cosmetic ]
The oily cosmetic of the present invention comprises: retinol; at least one compound selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and salts of ascorbic acid (i.e., ascorbic acid compounds); spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less (hereinafter, also referred to as "specific powder"); and an oil agent, wherein the content of the spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less is 10 mass% or more and less than 50 mass% relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
The oily cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in retinol stability and excellent in wrinkle-concealing effect.
The reason why the oil-based cosmetic material of the present invention can exert such an effect is not clear, but the present inventors speculate as follows.
Retinol is extremely unstable in structure, and thus it is difficult to contain retinol in a stable state in cosmetic materials. In conventional cosmetic materials, it has been attempted to ensure the stability of retinol by using retinol together with ascorbic acid, but the stabilizing effect of retinol by ascorbic acid is not sufficient.
On the other hand, the oily cosmetic of the present invention contains a specific powder in addition to the ascorbic acid compound, and thus retinol can be contained in a stable state. As a result, it is considered that the contact frequency of retinol with oxygen or the like is reduced because retinol is adsorbed to a specific powder, and it is more difficult to deteriorate the stability of retinol.
Since the specific powder has a refractive index of 1.6 or less, it is considered that when the oily cosmetic of the present invention is applied (for example, coated) to a wrinkle part, wrinkles can be visually blurred by a proper light scattering effect due to the specific powder. Further, since the specific powder is spherical in shape, wrinkles, which are recesses on the skin surface, can be satisfactorily filled. It is considered that if the specific powder fills the wrinkles satisfactorily, the wrinkle-concealing effect due to light scattering by the specific powder can be exerted more effectively. Further, since the content of the specific powder is 10 mass% or more, relatively deep recesses such as wrinkles can be satisfactorily filled.
It is presumed that the oily cosmetic of the present invention not only stabilizes retinol but also exerts an excellent wrinkle-concealing effect by containing a specific amount of such a specific powder.
The cosmetic material described in patent document 1 (japanese patent application laid-open publication No. 2006-503000; the same applies hereinafter) and the cosmetic material described in patent document 2 (japanese patent application laid-open publication No. 6-032721; the same applies hereinafter) each contain ascorbic acid, but do not contain a specific powder, and thus cannot ensure stability of retinol. The cosmetic material described in patent document 1 and the cosmetic material described in patent document 2 do not contain a specific powder, and therefore do not exhibit wrinkle-masking effects.
The cosmetic material described in patent document 3 (japanese unexamined patent publication No. 2010-143830; the same applies hereinafter) can make pores inconspicuous by containing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fine particles, but the wrinkle-concealing effect cannot be expected because the content of PVA fine particles is low. The cosmetic material described in patent document 3 contains retinol, but does not contain an ascorbic acid compound, and there is no concern about stabilization of retinol.
The cosmetic material described in patent document 4 (Japanese patent application laid-open No. 2005-104894; the same applies hereinafter) contains retinol, but there is no concern about stabilization of retinol. The cosmetic material described in patent document 4 contains tetrahexyldecanol ascorbate as an ascorbic acid derivative, but the stabilizing effect of retinol as with an ascorbic acid compound is not obtained with an ascorbic acid derivative.
The above estimation is not intended to be limiting, but is intended to be illustrative of an oily cosmetic of the present invention.
The components of the oily cosmetic of the present invention will be described in detail below.
[ retinol ]
The oily cosmetic of the present invention contains retinol.
In the oily cosmetic of the present invention, retinol can contribute to improvement of wrinkles.
Retinol has cis or trans isomers.
Examples of cis-retinol include 9-cis-retinol, 11-cis-retinol, and 13-cis-retinol.
As the trans-retinol, all-trans-retinol is exemplified.
The retinol may be any of cis-retinol and trans-retinol, and for example, 13-cis-retinol, all-trans-retinol or a mixture thereof is preferable, and all-trans-retinol is more preferable from the viewpoint of wrinkle-improving effect.
The oily cosmetic of the present invention may contain one kind of retinol alone or two or more kinds thereof.
The content of retinol in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited.
The content of retinol in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is, for example, preferably 0.001% by mass or more and 1% by mass or less, more preferably 0.005% by mass or more and 0.5% by mass or less, and still more preferably 0.01% by mass or more and 0.2% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
When the content of retinol in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is 0.001 mass% or more relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, the effect of improving wrinkles by containing retinol can be expected.
When the content of retinol in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is 1 mass% or less relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, skin irritation tends to be less likely to occur.
[ ascorbic acid Compound ]
The oily cosmetic of the present invention contains at least one compound selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and salts of ascorbic acid (i.e., ascorbic acid compounds).
In the oily cosmetic of the present invention, the ascorbic acid compound can contribute to the stability of retinol.
The ascorbic acid may be any of D-form, L-form and DL-form, and L-form (so-called L-ascorbic acid) is preferable from the viewpoint of stability of retinol.
Examples of the salt of ascorbic acid include sodium ascorbate, potassium ascorbate, and calcium ascorbate.
As the ascorbic acid compound, a commercially available compound as a component applicable to the skin in the cosmetic or quasi-drug field can be preferably used.
The oily cosmetic of the present invention may contain one kind of ascorbic acid compound alone or two or more kinds thereof.
The content of the ascorbic acid compound in the oily cosmetic of the present invention (that is, the total content of ascorbic acid and salts of ascorbic acid; the same applies hereinafter) is not particularly limited.
The content of the ascorbic acid compound in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.002 mass% or more and 2 mass% or less relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, for example.
The fact that the content of the ascorbic acid compound in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is 0.002 mass% or more relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic means that the ascorbic acid compound is positively contained in the oily cosmetic of the present invention.
When the content of the ascorbic acid compound in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is 2 mass% or less relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, skin irritation tends to be less likely to occur.
Further, from the viewpoint of stability of retinol and skin irritation, the content of the ascorbic acid compound in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is more preferably 0.01% by mass or more and 2% by mass or less, and still more preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 2% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
In the present invention, the "content and content of the ascorbic acid compound (that is, the total content and total content of ascorbic acid and salts of ascorbic acid)" means a value in terms of ascorbic acid. The term "ascorbic acid conversion" means that the mass of ascorbic acid itself is used, and the mass of a part of the structure of ascorbic acid contained in the salt derived from ascorbic acid is used as the salt of ascorbic acid.
The ratio of the content of the ascorbic acid compound (i.e., the total content of ascorbic acid and salts of ascorbic acid; the same applies hereinafter) to the content of retinol in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited.
The ratio of the content of the ascorbic acid compound to the content of retinol (i.e., the content of the ascorbic acid compound/the content of retinol) in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 or more on a mass basis.
If the ratio of the content of the ascorbic acid compound to the content of retinol in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is 0.1 or more on a mass basis, the stability of retinol tends to be further improved.
Further, it is considered that if the ratio of the content of the ascorbic acid compound to the content of retinol in the oily cosmetic material of the present invention is too large, oxidation of retinol may be promoted by the decomposition product of the ascorbic acid compound decomposed with time.
Considering such possibility, the ratio of the content of the ascorbic acid compound to the content of retinol in the oily cosmetic material of the present invention is more preferably 0.1 to 100, still more preferably 0.1 to 10, particularly preferably 1 to 10 on a mass basis.
[ specific powder ]
The oily cosmetic of the present invention comprises spherical powder (i.e., specific powder) having a refractive index of 1.6 or less.
In the oily cosmetic of the present invention, the specific powder can contribute to the stability of retinol and wrinkle-concealing effect.
The refractive index of the specific powder is 1.6 or less.
If the refractive index of the powder is too high, light scattering becomes excessive when applied (for example, applied) to the skin, and the appearance of the skin becomes white, so that wrinkles tend to be conspicuous.
Since the refractive index of the specific powder is 1.6 or less, it is considered that wrinkles can be visually blurred by a moderate light scattering effect.
The refractive index of the specific powder is, for example, preferably 1.58 or less, more preferably 1.56 or less, and still more preferably 1.54 or less.
The lower limit of the refractive index of the specific powder is not particularly limited, and is preferably 1.34 or more, more preferably 1.37 or more, and further preferably 1.40 or more, for example.
In the present invention, the refractive index of the powder is as defined in JIS K7142: 2014 (Pecke method).
The specific powder is spherical powder.
The spherical powder includes not only spherical powder but also substantially spherical powder.
Preferable examples of the "spherical shape" include a ratio of 1.0 to 1.5.
The spherical powder may have irregularities on the surface.
Since the specific powder is spherical in shape, wrinkles, which are recesses on the skin surface, can be satisfactorily filled. It is considered that if the specific powder fills the wrinkles well, the wrinkle-concealing effect due to light scattering by the specific powder can be more well exhibited.
The oily cosmetic of the present invention has a specific refractive index and contains a spherical powder, and therefore can exhibit an excellent wrinkle-concealing effect.
The particle size of the specific powder is not particularly limited.
The average particle diameter of the specific powder is, for example, preferably 0.1 μm or more and 100 μm or less, and more preferably 0.5 μm or more and 60 μm or less.
In the present invention, the average particle diameter of the powder means a volume average particle diameter (Mv) and is a value measured by a laser diffraction/scattering particle diameter distribution measuring apparatus.
As the laser diffraction/scattering particle size distribution measuring device, for example, particle LA-960 (product name) of HORIBA, ltd. However, the laser diffraction/scattering particle size distribution measuring apparatus is not limited to this.
The specific powder is preferably an oil-absorbing powder.
If the specific powder is an oil-absorbing powder, the stability of retinol tends to be further improved.
The term "oil-absorbing powder" means a powder capable of absorbing 5 mass% or more of purified linseed oil by weight of the powder at 25 ℃.
According to JIS K5101-13-1: 2004 to measure oil absorption.
The type of the specific powder is not particularly limited as long as it is a spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less and is a powder used in the field of cosmetic materials.
Specific powders include powders of inorganic compounds, cross-linked silicone polymers, cross-linked hydrocarbon polymers, and the like.
Specific examples of the inorganic compound include silica and calcium carbonate.
Specific examples of the crosslinked silicone polymer include (polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) crosslinked polymer, (polydimethylsiloxane/phenyl vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) crosslinked polymer, (vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane) crosslinked polymer, (lauryl polydimethylsiloxane ethyl polydimethylsiloxane/divinyl polydimethylsiloxane) crosslinked polymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, (vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsilsesquioxane silsesquioxane) crosslinked polymer, silicone-1 crosslinked polymer, silicone-22, and the like.
Specific examples of the crosslinked hydrocarbon polymer include crosslinked products such as nylon, polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyurethane, and polystyrene.
The specific powder is preferably at least one powder selected from the group consisting of silica, a cross-linked silicone polymer and a cross-linked hydrocarbon polymer, more preferably at least one powder selected from the group consisting of silica and a cross-linked silicone polymer, and preferably silica from the viewpoint of stability of retinol and wrinkle-concealing effect.
The silica may be porous silica.
The specific powder may be a powder obtained by subjecting the spherical powder of the above type to a surface treatment by a known method.
As the specific powder, commercially available ones can be used.
As examples of commercial products of specific powders, there may be mentioned KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102 and KSP-105 (trade name for both of the (vinylpolydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane) crosslinked polymers of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., ltd.), KSP-411 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., ltd.), 9701Cosmetic Powder (trade name for the (polydimethylsiloxane/vinylpolydimethylsiloxane) crosslinked polymers of Dow Chemical Japan Limited, matsumoto Microsphere (registered trade name) M-305 and M-306 (trade name for the methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymers of matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku Co., ltd.), sunsphee (trade name) H-31, H-51, H-121, H-201 and H-301, and SP (trade name for the silicone) of SDP-35, and SP-500 (trade name for the methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymers of Ttd, etc.), and these are all of the silicone-1 crosslinked polymers of Sunsphee (trade name for the silicone crosslinked polymers of SDP-11, SDP-101, SDP-35 and SP-500, and the like.
The oily cosmetic of the present invention may contain one specific powder alone or two or more kinds.
The content of the specific powder in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is 10% by mass or more and less than 50% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
When the content of the specific powder in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is 10 mass% or more relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, an excellent wrinkle-concealing effect can be achieved.
If the content of the specific powder in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is less than 50% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, the coatability is not easily impaired even if the specific powder is an oil-absorbing powder, for example.
From the viewpoint of wrinkle-concealing effect, the content of the specific powder in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 15 mass% or more, more preferably 20 mass% or more, relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
From the viewpoint of stability of retinol, the content of the specific powder in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 45 mass% or less, more preferably 40 mass% or less, further preferably 35 mass% or less, and particularly preferably 30 mass% or less, relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
The content of the specific powder in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 15% by mass or more and 35% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, from the viewpoint of improving the balance between the stability of retinol and wrinkle concealing effect.
[ oil solution ]
The oily cosmetic of the present invention comprises an oil agent.
"oil" means a component which has a solubility in water of less than 0.1% by mass (less than 1 g/L) at 25 ℃ and is generally used as an oil in the field of cosmetic materials.
The oil is not particularly limited as long as it is applicable to cosmetic materials.
The oil may be a liquid, a semisolid, or a solid, but is preferably a liquid at 25 ℃ from the viewpoint of manufacturing applicability, for example.
"oil which is liquid at 25 ℃ means an oil having a melting point or softening point of less than 25 ℃.
Examples of the oil agent include ester oil, hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, and animal and vegetable oils and fats.
Specific examples of the ester oil include fatty acid esters such as cetyl ethylhexanoate (the name of the component of the cosmetic is cetyl ethylhexanoate, the name of the component of the quasi-drug is cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, the same applies hereinafter), isotridecyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate (the name of the component of the cosmetic is ethylhexyl palmitate, the name of the component of the quasi-drug is 2-ethylhexyl palmitate), butyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate (the name of the component of the cosmetic is ethylhexyl stearate, the name of the component of the quasi-drug is 2-ethylhexyl stearate), isotridecyl stearate, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, isobutyl oleate, glyceryl triisooctoate, glyceryl tris (caprylate/caprate), diisopropyl adipate, diethyl sebacate, and the like.
Specific examples of the hydrocarbon oil include liquid paraffin, isoparaffin, vaseline, paraffin, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, squalane, and the like.
Specific examples of the silicone oil include polydimethylsiloxane, trisiloxane, polycyclomethylsiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, methyltrimethylsiloxane, octylpolymethylsiloxane, phenylpolytrimethylsiloxane, diphenylpolydimethylsiloxane, diphenylsiloxyphenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, and the like.
Specific examples of animal and vegetable oils and fats include avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, sesame oil, wheat germ oil, safflower oil, shea butter, turtle oil, camellia oil, peach kernel oil, castor oil, grape oil, macadamia nut oil, coconut oil, tree wax, rosehip oil, soybean oil, egg oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cocoa butter, hydrogenated turtle oil, hydrogenated mink oil, beef tallow, mink oil, lanolin (so-called Lanolin) and the like.
The oil is preferably a polar oil.
If the oily cosmetic of the present invention contains a polar oil as an oil agent, the stability of retinol can be further improved. The reason why the stability of retinol can be further improved by using a polar oil is not clear, but it is presumed that the solubility of nonpolar oxygen in the polar oil is low and oxidative decomposition of retinol is suppressed.
Examples of the polar oil include glyceryl tri (caprylate/caprate), ethyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, and glyceryl triisooctoate.
The value [ IOB (Inorganic Organic Balance: inorganic-organic balance) value of the oil solution obtained from the ratio of the organic value to the inorganic value; hereinafter, this is referred to as "I/O value". Preferably 0.05 or more, more preferably 0.1 or more and 1.0 or less, and still more preferably 0.2 or more and 0.5 or less.
If the I/O value of the oil is 0.05 or more, the stability of retinol can be further improved.
As is well known, the I/O Value is a Value indicating the ratio of an Inorganic Value (IV) to an Organic Value (OV) obtained from an Organic conceptual diagram, and indicates the polarity degree of the oil.
The I/O value is represented by the following formula (I). The larger the I/O value, the more polar it is. Regarding the I/O values, there are detailed descriptions in "organic conceptual diagram" (article a Tian Shansheng, SANKYO shoppan co., ltd., 1984). Specifically, the I/O value can be obtained from the description of "prediction of organic compound and organic conceptual diagram", rattan field (chemical field 11-10), 1957, p.719 to p.725, "emulsification prescription design based on organic conceptual diagram" Nihon Emulsion co., ltd., sagittal, 1985, p.98 ".
I/O value = Inorganism Value (IV)/Organism Value (OV) … … (I)
In the present invention, reference values of an Organic Value (OV) and an Inorganic Value (IV) used in calculation of an I/O value are shown below.
Intramolecular carbon (OV: 20, IV: 0)
Carbon-carbon double bond (OV: 0, IV: 2)
Carbon-carbon triple bond (OV: 0, IV: 3)
Branching of the carbon chain (OV: -10, IV: 0)
COO(OV：0、IV：60)
-OH(OV：0、IV：100)
-O-(OV：0、IV：20)
Examples of the oil having an I/O value of 0.05 or more include tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride [ I/O value=0.33 ], ethyl oleate [ I/O value=0.16 ], isopropyl palmitate [ I/O value=0.16 ], cetyl ethylhexanoate [ I/O value=0.13 ], isotridecyl isononanoate [ I/O value=0.15 ], and triisocaprylic glyceride [ I/O value=0.35 ].
The oily cosmetic of the present invention may contain one oil alone or two or more kinds.
The content of the oil agent in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited.
The content of the oil agent in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 45% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, for example.
When the content of the oil agent in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is 45 mass% or more relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, the oily cosmetic is less likely to be powdery even when the oil absorption of a specific powder contained in the oily cosmetic is high, and the oily cosmetic can be applied favorably.
If the content is too high, the oily cosmetic may give a sticky feel when applied to the skin, and the use feeling may be impaired.
In view of such possibility, the content of the oil agent in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is more preferably 45% by mass or more and 85% by mass or less, still more preferably 55% by mass or more and 75% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 65% by mass or more and 75% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
[ other Components ]
The oily cosmetic of the present invention may contain components (so-called other components) other than retinol, ascorbic acid compound, specific powder and oil, as required, within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
Examples of the other component include water and an additive component generally used in a cosmetic material.
< Water >)
The oily cosmetic of the present invention may contain water.
The water is not particularly limited as long as it can be used in a cosmetic material.
Specific examples of the water include natural water, purified water, distilled water, ion-exchanged water, pure water, ultrapure water (for example, milli-Q water), and the like.
Among these, from the viewpoint of less impurities, purified water, distilled water, ion-exchanged water, pure water, or ultrapure water is preferable as water.
The water content in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited.
For example, from the viewpoint of more excellent wrinkle concealing effect, the oily cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains no water or water in an amount of more than 0% by mass and less than 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, more preferably contains no water or water in an amount of more than 0% by mass and less than 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, still more preferably contains no water or water in an amount of more than 0% by mass and less than 1% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, and particularly preferably contains no water.
In the present invention, "not containing water" means not substantially containing water. Also, "substantially free of water" means that the presence of water inevitably mixed in is allowed, but the presence of water intentionally added is not allowed.
< additive component >)
The oily cosmetic of the present invention may contain an additive component.
Examples of the additive component include functional components that exhibit useful cosmetic effects (moisturizing effect, whitening effect, skin care effect, etc.) when used in cosmetic materials.
Examples of such functional components include carotenoids such as beta-carotene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin, lycopene, and lutein; vitamin E such as tocopherol, tocotrienol, etc.; ubiquinone such as coenzyme Q10; polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, erythritol, xylitol, glucose, sorbitol, and trehalose; glycosphingolipids such as acetylhydroxyproline and glucosylceramide; collagen such as hydrolyzed collagen and water-soluble collagen; amino acids such as acetylhydroxyproline; hydrolyzing lupin protein; nicotinamide; polyvinyl alcohol, and the like.
Examples of the additive component include a preservative, an ultraviolet absorber, an anti-inflammatory agent, a colorant, and a perfume.
These additive components may be components having two or more functions supported by one component.
[ use of oily cosmetic ]
The oily cosmetic of the present invention can be preferably used as a cosmetic, quasi-drug (so-called cosmeceutical), or the like.
[ use form of oily cosmetic ]
The form of use of the oily cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited.
The form of use of the oily cosmetic of the present invention is preferably used before the base makeup, for example, from the viewpoint of more effectively exhibiting the wrinkle-concealing effect.
[ morphology of oily cosmetic ]
The form of the oily cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited.
Examples of the form of the oily cosmetic of the present invention include paste form, cream form, and the like.
[ method for producing oily cosmetic ]
The method for producing the oily cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and a known production method can be applied.
An example of a preferred method for producing the oily cosmetic of the present invention will be described below. However, the matters common to the above-described oily cosmetic materials, for example, the components and the amounts thereof, will not be described.
The oily cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a method comprising mixing retinol, an ascorbic acid compound, a specific powder in a specific amount (i.e., spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less), an oil agent, and, if necessary, other components already described (hereinafter, also referred to as "mixing step").
The components contained in the oily cosmetic may be simply mixed, and all the components may be mixed at once or several times.
The mixing mechanism is not particularly limited, and a known mixing mechanism can be applied.
Examples of the mixing means include a known mixing means such as a mortar and pestle, a mixer, and a kneader.
The temperature at the time of mixing the components is preferably 60℃or lower from the viewpoint of suppressing decomposition of retinol by heat, more preferably 4℃to 50℃and further preferably 4℃to 45℃from the viewpoint of manufacturing suitability.
The time for mixing the components is not particularly limited as long as the components can be sufficiently mixed, and can be appropriately set according to, for example, a mixing mechanism, the kind of the components, and the like.
The method for producing an oily cosmetic of the present invention may include steps other than the mixing step (so-called other steps) as required.
Examples of the other steps include a defoaming step, a removal step, and the like.
Examples
The oily cosmetic of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. However, the oily cosmetic of the present invention is not limited to the following examples unless the gist thereof is exceeded.
Test example 1
[ preparation of oily cosmetic ]
Example 1-1
An oily cosmetic was prepared by the following method in an ambient gas temperature of 25 ℃.
15.986g of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil is put into a mortar. Next, 0.01g of retinol, 0.004g of ascorbic acid, and silica [ shape ] as a specific powder were added to the above-mentioned oil solution placed in a mortar: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50 g, and then mixed with a pestle, whereby the oily cosmetic of example 1-1 was obtained.
Examples 1 to 2
An oily cosmetic of example 1-2 was obtained in the same manner as in example 1-1, except that the blending amount of ascorbic acid was changed from "0.004g" to "0.04g" and the blending amount of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil was changed from "15.986g" to "15.95g" in the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 1-1.
Comparative example 1-1
An oily cosmetic of comparative example 1-1 was obtained in the same manner as in example 1-1 except that ascorbic acid was not blended and the blending amount of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil was changed from "15.986g" to "15.99g" in the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 1-1.
Comparative examples 1 to 2
The oily cosmetic of comparative example 1-2 was obtained in the same manner as in example 1-1 except that tetrahexyldecanoate ascorbate as an ascorbic acid derivative was blended instead of blending ascorbic acid in the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 1-1.
Comparative examples 1 to 3
The oily cosmetic of comparative examples 1 to 3 was obtained in the same manner as in examples 1 to 2 except that tetrahexyldecanoate ascorbate as an ascorbic acid derivative was blended instead of blending ascorbic acid in the preparation of the oily cosmetic of examples 1 to 2.
[ evaluation ]
The oily cosmetic materials of examples 1-1, examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-1 to comparative examples 1-3 were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.
1. Stability of retinol
The stability of retinol was evaluated for each oily cosmetic.
1g of an oily cosmetic immediately after preparation was placed in a 20mL glass container at an ambient gas temperature of 50 ℃. Next, the container in which the oily cosmetic was placed was left in a state where the oily cosmetic was in contact with air for 1 day (i.e., 24 hours) in an environment where the ambient gas temperature was 50 ℃. Then, the amount of retinol contained in the oily cosmetic after leaving was quantified, and the ratio (unit:%) of the amount of retinol contained in the oily cosmetic before leaving was calculated as 100. Further, the retinol was quantified by an absorbance measurement method using ethanol as a solvent and a measurement wavelength of 325 nm. In the calculation, the retinol absorption coefficient (E1%, 1 cm) =1835 was set.
Based on the calculated value of the residual ratio of retinol, the stability of retinol was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
Among the following evaluation criteria, the most excellent stability of retinol is "a".
[ evaluation criterion ]
A: the residual ratio of retinol is more than 90%.
B: the residual ratio of retinol is more than 50% and less than 90%.
C: the residual retinol is less than 50%.
2. Wrinkle concealing effect
Wrinkle-concealing effects were evaluated for each oily cosmetic.
Panelists 5 evaluating the cosmetic materials were allowed to apply an oily cosmetic material to the wrinkled portion of the skin. Further, they were allowed to observe the appearance of skin after coating, and judged whether wrinkles were reduced. Based on the determination result, the wrinkle-concealing effect was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
Of the following evaluation criteria, "a" is the most excellent wrinkle-concealing effect.
[ evaluation criterion ]
A: the number of panelists judged to have reduced wrinkles was 3 or more.
B: the number of panelists judged to be reduced in wrinkles was 1 or 2.
C: the number of panelists judged to be reduced in wrinkles was 0.
TABLE 1
In table 1, "-" indicated in the composition column indicates that the corresponding component is not included.
In table 1, for convenience, the components corresponding to retinol, ascorbic acid compound, specific powder and oil agent are respectively classified and labeled as (a), (B), (C) and (D).
The details of the components shown in table 1 are as follows.
< (A): retinol >
Retinol [ trade name: retinol synthetic, component names: all-trans-retinol, sigma Aldrich Co.)
< (B): ascorbic acid compound >
Ascorbic acid (trade name: l (+) -ascorbic acid, component name: l-ascorbic acid, FUJIFILM Wako Pure Chemical Corporation ]
< (C): specific powder body
Silica (trade name: sunsphere (registered trademark) H-31, shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50, agc Si-Tech co., ltd.)
< (D): oil agent >)
Tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride [ trade name: TCG-M, ester oils, polar oils (I/O value: 0.33), KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO., LTD.)
< others >
Tetrahexyl decanoate ascorbate [ trade name: NIKKOL (registered trademark) VC-IP, ascorbic acid derivatives, nikko Chemicals co., ltd.)
As shown in Table 1, the oily cosmetic of examples 1-1 and examples 1-2, which contained retinol, an ascorbic acid compound, specific powders in specific amounts, and an oil, were excellent in the stability of retinol. The oily cosmetic of examples 1-1 and 1-2 was excellent in wrinkle-masking effect.
On the other hand, the oily cosmetic of comparative example 1-1, which does not contain an ascorbic acid compound, is inferior in stability of retinol as compared with the oily cosmetic of example.
The oily cosmetic of comparative examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3, which contain an ascorbic acid derivative instead of an ascorbic acid compound, are inferior in stability of retinol as compared with the oily cosmetic of examples.
Test example 2
[ preparation of oily cosmetic ]
Example 2-1
An oily cosmetic was prepared by the following method in an ambient gas temperature of 25 ℃.
17.95g of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil solution was put into a mortar. Subsequently, 0.01g of retinol, 0.04g of ascorbic acid, and silica [ shape ] as a specific powder were added to the above-mentioned oil solution placed in a mortar: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50 g and then mixed with a pestle, whereby the oily cosmetic of example 2-1 was obtained.
Examples 2 to 2
An oily cosmetic of example 2-2 was obtained in the same manner as in example 2-1, except that the blending amount of silica as a specific powder was changed from "2.00g" to "4.00g" and the blending amount of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil agent was changed from "17.95g" to "15.95g" in the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 2-1.
The oily cosmetic of example 2-2 had the same composition as the oily cosmetic of example 1-2.
Examples 2 to 3
An oily cosmetic of example 2-3 was obtained in the same manner as in example 2-1, except that the blending amount of silica as a specific powder was changed from "2.00g" to "6.00g" and the blending amount of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil agent was changed from "17.95g" to "13.95g" in the preparation of an oily cosmetic of example 2-1.
Examples 2 to 4
An oily cosmetic of example 2-4 was obtained in the same manner as in example 2-1, except that the blending amount of silica as a specific powder was changed from "2.00g" to "8.00g" and the blending amount of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil agent was changed from "17.95g" to "11.95g" in the preparation of an oily cosmetic of example 2-1.
Comparative example 2-1
An oily cosmetic of comparative example 2-1 was obtained in the same manner as in example 2-1, except that silica as a specific powder was not blended and the blending amount of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil was changed from "17.95g" to "19.95g" in the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 2-1.
Comparative examples 2-2
An oily cosmetic of comparative example 2-2 was obtained in the same manner as in example 2-1, except that the blending amount of silica as a specific powder was changed from "2.00g" to "1.00g" and the blending amount of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil agent was changed from "17.95g" to "18.95g" in the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 2-1.
Comparative examples 2 to 3
An oily cosmetic of comparative example 2-3 was obtained in the same manner as in example 2-1, except that the blending amount of silica as a specific powder was changed from "2.00g" to "10.00g" and the blending amount of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil agent was changed from "17.95g" to "9.95g" in the preparation of an oily cosmetic of example 2-1.
[ evaluation ]
The oily cosmetic materials of examples 2-1 to 2-4 and comparative examples 2-1 to 2-3 were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 2.
Further, the oily cosmetic materials of comparative examples 2 to 3 were powdery in shape and difficult to apply favorably, and therefore "2. Wrinkle-concealing effect" could not be evaluated.
1. Stability of retinol
The stability of retinol was evaluated for each oily cosmetic.
Details of the evaluation test, evaluation standard, and the like are the same as those of the evaluation test, evaluation standard, and the like in "1. Stability of retinol" of [ evaluation of test example 1], and therefore, description thereof is omitted here.
2. Wrinkle concealing effect
Wrinkle-concealing effects were evaluated for each oily cosmetic.
Details of the evaluation test, evaluation criterion, and the like are the same as those of the evaluation test, evaluation criterion, and the like in "2. Wrinkle masking effect" of [ evaluation of test example 1], and therefore, description thereof is omitted here.
In Table 2, for convenience, the ingredients corresponding to retinol, ascorbic acid compound, specific powders and oils are labeled as (A), (B), (C) and (D), respectively.
In table 2, "-" indicated in the composition column indicates that the corresponding component is not included.
The details of the components shown in table 2 are as follows.
< (A): retinol >
Retinol [ trade name: retinol synthetic, component names: all-trans-retinol, sigma Aldrich Co.)
< (B): ascorbic acid compound >
Ascorbic acid (trade name: l (+) -ascorbic acid, component name: l-ascorbic acid, FUJIFILM Wako Pure Chemical Corporation ]
< (C): specific powder body
Silica (trade name: sunsphere (registered trademark) H-31, shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50, agc Si-Tech co., ltd.)
< (D): oil agent >)
Tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride [ trade name: TCG-M, ester oils, polar oils (I/O value: 0.33), KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO., LTD.)
As shown in table 2, the oily cosmetic of examples 2-1 to 2-4, which contains retinol, an ascorbic acid compound, a specific powder and an oil agent, has a content of the specific powder of 10 mass% or more and less than 50 mass% relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, has excellent retinol stability. The oily cosmetic materials of examples 2-1 to 2-4 were excellent in wrinkle-masking effect.
On the other hand, the oily cosmetic of comparative example 2-1 which did not contain a specific powder was inferior in both the stability of retinol and wrinkle-concealing effect as compared with the oily cosmetic of example.
The oily cosmetic of comparative examples 2-2, in which the content of the specific powder was less than 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, had poor wrinkle-concealing effect as compared with the oily cosmetic of examples.
The stability of retinol of the oily cosmetic of comparative examples 2 to 3, in which the content of the specific powder was 50% or more relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, was poor compared with the oily cosmetic of examples. Further, as described above, the oily cosmetic materials of comparative examples 2 to 3 were powdery in shape and difficult to apply favorably, and therefore, the wrinkle-concealing effect could not be evaluated.
Test example 3
[ preparation of oily cosmetic ]
Example 3-1
An oily cosmetic was prepared by the following method in an ambient gas temperature of 25 ℃.
15.95g of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil agent was put into a mortar. Subsequently, 0.01g of retinol, 0.04g of ascorbic acid, and silica [ shape ] as a specific powder were added to the above-mentioned oil solution placed in a mortar: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50 g, and then mixed with a pestle, whereby an oily cosmetic of example 3-1 was obtained.
The oily cosmetic of example 3-1 had the same composition as the oily cosmetic of examples 1-2 and 2-2.
Example 3-2
In the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 3-1, (polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) crosslinked polymer [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.43 ] instead of blending silica as a specific powder [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50 ] the same procedure as in example 3-1 was conducted to obtain an oily cosmetic of example 3-2.
Examples 3 to 3
In the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 3-1, PMMA as a specific powder was blended [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.49 ] instead of blending silica as a specific powder [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50 ] the same procedure as in example 3-1 was conducted to obtain an oily cosmetic of example 3-3.
Examples 3 to 4
In the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 3-1, the shape of ni Long as a specific powder was blended: spherical, refractive index: 1.53 ] instead of blending silica as a specific powder [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50 ] the same procedures as in example 3-1 were carried out to obtain oily cosmetic of example 3-4.
Comparative example 3-1
An oily cosmetic of comparative example 3-1 was obtained in the same manner as in example 3-1, except that silica as a specific powder was not blended and the blending amount of tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride as an oil was changed from "15.95g" to "19.95g" in the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 3-1.
The oily cosmetic of comparative example 3-1 had the same composition as the oily cosmetic of comparative example 2-1.
Comparative examples 3-2
In the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 3-1, powder titanium oxide which does not correspond to a specific powder was blended [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 2.50 to 2.72 ] instead of blending silica as a specific powder [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50), the oily cosmetic of comparative example 3-2 was obtained in the same manner as in example 3-1.
Comparative examples 3 to 3
In the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 3-1, powder mica not corresponding to a specific powder [ shape: flat, refractive index: 1.59 ] instead of blending silica as a specific powder [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50), the oily cosmetic of comparative example 3-3 was obtained in the same manner as in example 3-1.
Comparative examples 3 to 4
In the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 3-1, powder silica [ shape ] which does not correspond to a specific powder was blended: flat, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50 ] instead of blending silica as a specific powder [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50), the oily cosmetic of comparative example 3-4 was obtained in the same manner as in example 3-1.
Comparative examples 3 to 5
In the preparation of the oily cosmetic of example 3-1, powder alumina not corresponding to a specific powder was blended [ shape: flat, refractive index: 1.76 ] instead of blending silica as a specific powder [ shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50), the oily cosmetic of comparative example 3-5 was obtained in the same manner as in example 3-1.
[ evaluation ]
The oily cosmetic materials of examples 3-1 to 3-4 and comparative examples 3-1 to 3-5 were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 3.
1. Stability of retinol
The stability of retinol was evaluated for each oily cosmetic.
Details of the evaluation test, evaluation standard, and the like are the same as those of the evaluation test, evaluation standard, and the like in "1. Stability of retinol" of [ evaluation of test example 1], and therefore, description thereof is omitted here.
2. Wrinkle concealing effect
Wrinkle-concealing effects were evaluated for each oily cosmetic.
Details of the evaluation test, evaluation criterion, and the like are the same as those of the evaluation test, evaluation criterion, and the like in "2. Wrinkle masking effect" of [ evaluation of test example 1], and therefore, description thereof is omitted here.
In Table 3, for convenience, the components corresponding to retinol, ascorbic acid compound, specific powders and oils are labeled as (A), (B), (C) and (D), respectively.
In table 3, "-" indicated in the composition column indicates that the corresponding component is not included.
The details of the components shown in table 3 are as follows.
< (A): retinol >
Retinol [ trade name: retinol synthetic, component names: all-trans-retinol, sigma Aldrich Co.)
< (B): ascorbic acid compound >
Ascorbic acid (trade name: l (+) -ascorbic acid, component name: l-ascorbic acid, FUJIFILM Wako Pure Chemical Corporation ]
< (C): specific powder body
Silica (trade name: sunsphere (registered trademark) H-31, shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50, agc Si-Tech co., ltd.)
Crosslinked polymer (polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane) [ trade name: 9701Cosmetic Powder, shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.43 oil-absorbing powder, cross-Linked Silicone Polymer, dow Chemical Company ]
PMMA (trade name: matsumoto Microsphere (registered trademark) M-305, shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.49 oil-absorbing powder, component names: methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer, the composition of the cosmetic indicates the name: methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer, crosslinked hydrocarbon polymer, atsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku co., ltd.)
Grade of ni Long: SP-10, shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.53, oil-absorbing powder, and cosmetic ingredients express names: nylon-12, crosslinked hydrocarbon polymers, TORAY INDUSTRIES, INC. ]
< (D): oil agent >)
Tri (caprylic/capric) glyceride [ trade name: TCG-M, ester oils, polar oils (I/O value: 0.33), KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO., LTD.)
< others >
Titanium oxide [ trade name: UNIPURE WHITE LC 987, shape: spherical, refractive index: 2.50 to 2.72,Sensient Technologies Corporation ]
Mica (trade name: sericite DN-MC, shape: flat, refractive index: 1.59,Dainihonkasei Co, ltd.)
Silica (trade name: sun Lovely C, shape: flat, refractive index: 1.44 to 1.50, agc Si-Tech co., ltd.)
Alumina (trade name: mirinae (registered trademark) A-1000D aluminum Powder, shape: spherical, refractive index: 1.76, TOAKASEI CO., LTD.)
As shown in Table 3, the oily cosmetic materials of examples 3-1 to 3-4, which contain retinol, an ascorbic acid compound, specific powders in specific amounts and an oil, were excellent in the stability of retinol. The oily cosmetic materials of examples 3-1 to 3-4 were excellent in wrinkle-masking effect.
On the other hand, as already described, the oily cosmetic of comparative example 3-1 containing no specific powder was inferior in both the stability of retinol and wrinkle-concealing effect as compared with the oily cosmetic of example.
The oil-based cosmetic materials of comparative examples 3-2 to 3-5, which contain a powder that does not correspond to the specific powder, that is, a powder having a refractive index exceeding 1.6 or a non-spherical shape, were inferior in at least one of stability of retinol and wrinkle-concealing effect instead of the specific powder.
Claims (6)
1. An oily cosmetic comprising: retinol; at least one compound selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and salts of ascorbic acid; spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less; and an oil agent, wherein the spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less is at least one powder selected from the group consisting of silica and crosslinked hydrocarbon polymers, the spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less is at least 10 mass% and less than 50 mass% relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, the retinol content is at least 0.001 mass% and not more than 1 mass% relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, the total content of salts of ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid is at least 0.01 mass% and not more than 2 mass% relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic, and the oil agent content is at least 45 mass% and not more than 85 mass% relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
2. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of retinol is 0.005% by mass or more and 0.5% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
3. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total content of ascorbic acid and a salt of ascorbic acid is 0.1 mass% or more and 2 mass% or less relative to the total mass of the oily cosmetic.
4. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spherical powder having a refractive index of 1.6 or less is a powder of silica.
5. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the ratio of the total content of ascorbic acid and a salt of ascorbic acid to the content of retinol is 0.1 to 100 on a mass basis.
6. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the refractive index of the spherical powder is 1.34 or more.
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2005247808A (en) * | 2004-03-08 | 2005-09-15 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Oily cosmetic for skin care |
| CN1671353A (en) * | 2002-07-24 | 2005-09-21 | 巴斯福股份公司 | Retinoid-containing preparations |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN1671353A (en) * | 2002-07-24 | 2005-09-21 | 巴斯福股份公司 | Retinoid-containing preparations |
| JP2005247808A (en) * | 2004-03-08 | 2005-09-15 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Oily cosmetic for skin care |
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