CN112006940A

CN112006940A - Application of poloxamer 407 as sun protection synergist in sun protection cosmetics

Info

Publication number: CN112006940A
Application number: CN202011091442.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 赵仕芝; 宁新娟
Original assignee: Yangshengtang Anji Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Yangshengtang Anji Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-10-13
Filing date: 2020-10-13
Publication date: 2020-12-01
Anticipated expiration: 2040-10-13
Also published as: CN112006940B

Abstract

The invention relates to an application of poloxamer 407 in sunscreen cosmetics as a sunscreen synergist, wherein poloxamer 407 can obviously improve the sunscreen effect of the sunscreen cosmetics, so that the dosage of a traditional sunscreen agent in the sunscreen cosmetics can be reduced, the risks of the sunscreen agent entering blood or stimulating and the like are reduced, and the sunscreen cosmetics are milder and safer.

Description

Application of poloxamer 407 as sun protection synergist in sun protection cosmetics

Technical Field

Background

Excessive uv radiation can accelerate skin aging, increasing the risk of skin cancer, and is a major cause of skin damage. The compound with ultraviolet protection function can reduce the damage of ultraviolet rays to skin. Sunscreen cosmetics are broadly classified into two major categories, inorganic and organic, according to the protective mechanism. Inorganic sunscreens (physical sunscreens) reflect and scatter ultraviolet and visible light, and organic sunscreens (chemical sunscreens) absorb ultraviolet radiation and then re-release energy in the form of heat or light. Generally, effective sunscreen is achieved by the combination of physical and chemical sunscreens.

At present, sufficient sunscreen efficacy is achieved mainly by adding sufficient physical and chemical sunscreen agents to sunscreen cosmetics, however, the heavy use of traditional sunscreen agents leads to a series of problems, including the possibility of causing skin irritation, the induction of free radical generation, and the risk of sunscreen agents entering the blood, interfering with hormone levels of the human body, and the like. Therefore, in view of the problems of the existing sunscreen cosmetics, it is urgently needed to provide a non-sunscreen component capable of improving sunscreen efficacy, which can reduce the dosage of the traditional sunscreen agent and is mild and friendly to the skin, thereby reducing the skin allergic reaction and the risk of the sunscreen agent entering blood.

Disclosure of Invention

The inventor finds that poloxamer 407 can remarkably improve the sunscreen effect of sunscreen cosmetics containing known traditional sunscreens, and further can reduce the dosage of the known traditional sunscreens and reduce the risks of the sunscreens such as bleeding or irritation, so that the sunscreen cosmetics are milder and safer.

Thus, in one aspect, the invention relates to the use of poloxamer 407 as a sunscreen synergist in a sunscreen cosmetic product. Poloxamer 407 can significantly improve the sunscreen effect of the sunscreen cosmetic, so that the dosage of the known traditional sunscreen agent in the sunscreen cosmetic can be reduced, the risk of the sunscreen agent entering blood or stimulating is reduced, and the sunscreen cosmetic is milder and safer.

In another aspect, the invention relates to a method of increasing the sunscreen efficacy of a sunscreen cosmetic comprising a known sunscreen comprising adding poloxamer 407 to a sunscreen cosmetic comprising a known sunscreen, the method increasing the sunscreen efficacy of the sunscreen cosmetic.

In yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a sunscreen cosmetic comprising a known sunscreen agent and poloxamer 407. The sunscreen cosmetic has improved sunscreen efficacy while being milder and safer than conventional sunscreen cosmetics.

Poloxamer 407 is a water-soluble nonionic surfactant, a triblock copolymer of about 70% polyoxyethylene and about 30% polyoxypropylene, which increases the solubility of some poorly soluble substances, is biodegradable in vivo, and has low irritation to the body. Poloxamer 407 is commercially available, for example, from a supplier such as CRODA.

Poloxamer 407 may be present in the sunscreen cosmetic in an amount of about 0.4 to 3%, preferably about 0.5 to 2.5%, more preferably about 0.6 to 1.5%, based on the total weight of the sunscreen cosmetic.

As known in the art, sunscreen efficacy is generally characterized by the parameters SPF and PA. Wherein spf (sun Protection factor) is the ratio of the energy required to produce minimal erythema on skin with sunscreen to the energy required to produce the same degree of erythema on skin without sunscreen, calculated from the minimum erythema dose of the skin, calculated by: assuming that the UV intensity does not change with time, a person without any sun protection measures will have a red skin if he is exposed to sunlight for 20 minutes, whereas when using SPF15 sun protection cosmetics it is shown that the time is increased by a factor of 15, i.e. the skin will not turn red after 300 minutes. The sun protection factor SPF is a parameter that measures the ability of a sunscreen cosmetic to protect against UVB in the sun. PA (protection of UVA) is a parameter reflecting the protective ability of a sunscreen cosmetic against UVA in sunlight, and is generally represented by "+" which means that the larger the "+" sign is, the stronger the PA value is, the more the effect of preventing long-wave ultraviolet rays is, generally, the PA value is 2-4 is "+", the PA value is 4-8 is "+", and the PA value is 8 or more is "+ + + + +".

In the present invention, poloxamer 407 can increase the sun protection factor SPF of a sunscreen cosmetic by about 20-55%.

The sunscreen cosmetic may be a product in various dosage forms including spray, lotion, gel/jelly, cream, air cushion/foundation, etc. containing a physical or chemical sunscreen agent.

The sunscreen agent is any physical or chemical sunscreen agent known in the art, including, but not limited to chemical sunscreens such as DHHB (diethylamino oxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), BEMT (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), TDSA (p-xylylene dicamphor sulfonic acid), MBBT (methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), BMDM (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane/avobenzone), EHT (ethylhexyl triazone), IMC (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), EHMC (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), PBSA (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), MBC (4-methylbenzylidenecamphor); UVB auxiliary sunscreens such as OCR (octocrylene), EHS (ethylhexyl salicylate), PS15 (silicone-15), and HMS (homosalate); and physical sunscreens such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. In the present invention, preferred sunscreen agents are selected from DHHB, EHMC, BEMT, HMS, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. The sunscreen is typically present in the sunscreen cosmetic in an amount of about 1 to about 40 percent based on the total weight of the sunscreen cosmetic.

The sunscreen cosmetic may also optionally contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, including any ingredients known in the art, such as vehicles, active ingredients, surfactants, film formers, and adjuvants, which are known to those skilled in the art, and the type and amount of which may be specifically selected as desired.

The vehicle may be a diluent, dispersant or carrier, etc., all of which are known in the art and the type and amount of which may be selected by one skilled in the art as desired. Such vehicles include, for example, ethanol, dipropylene glycol, polyhydroxystearic acid, and the like. In the sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention, the vehicle generally constitutes about 1 to 20% of the total weight of the common ingredients.

Such active ingredients include, for example, emollients, humectants, skin conditioning agents, and the like.

Such emollients include, but are not limited to, triglycerides (ethyl hexanoate), caprylic/capric triglycerides, shea butter, cetyl alcohol, dimethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, phenyl ethyl benzoate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate), diisopropyl sebacate, olive oil, grape seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, avocado oil, corn oil, squalane, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, hydrogenated polydecene, sunflower seed oil, undecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, stearic acid, jojoba seed oil, lanolin, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, beeswax, and the like. In the sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention, the emollient generally comprises about 1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the conventional ingredients.

Examples of such humectants include, but are not limited to, birch juice, glycerol, betaine, glyceryl polyether-26, trehalose, sucrose, propylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, mannitol, rhamnose, raffinose, erythritol, xylitol, urea, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol-32, methyl gluceth-10, methyl gluceth-20, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, sodium polyglutamate, hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, pullulan, tremella polysaccharide, sodium polyglutamate, glyceryl glucoside, PPG-10 methyl glucose ether, panthenol, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, and the like. In the sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention, the humectant generally constitutes about 1 to 95% by weight of the total weight of the conventional ingredients.

The skin conditioner may be any kind known in the art, which has moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, spot-removing, acne-removing, oil-controlling, etc. effects. Examples of such skin conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, acetyl phytosphingosine, turmeric root extract, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, cholesterol, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, arbutin, tranexamic acid, niacinamide, birch bark extract, oat kernel extract, artemia extract, acetyl phytosphingosine, resveratrol, rosewood bark extract, coleus forskohlii root extract, pepper seed extract, ubiquinone, bisabolol, tetraisopalmitate ascorbate, pyridoxine dicaprylate, pyridoxine dipalmitate, retinol palmitate, and the like. In the sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention, the skin conditioning agent generally comprises about 0.05 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the conventional ingredients.

The surfactant may be any type of surfactant commonly used in cosmetics for lowering the surface tension of the interface for the purpose of cleaning, emulsifying, stabilizing the system. Examples of the surfactant include, but are not limited to, fatty acid soaps (e.g., sodium laurate, sodium palmitate, etc.), higher alkyl sulfates (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate, etc.), N-acyl sarcosines (e.g., sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, etc.), higher fatty acid amide sulfonates (e.g., sodium lauryl methyl taurate, etc.), alkylbenzene sulfonates, higher fatty acid ester sulfates (e.g., sodium hardened coconut fatty acid glycerin sulfate, etc.), N-acyl glutamates, lauryl dimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, alkyl betaines, amido betaines, sorbitan fatty acid esters (e.g., sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate), etc, Glyceryl polyglyceryl fatty acid esters (e.g., glyceryl mono-erucate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl malate monostearate, etc.), PEG-fatty acid esters (e.g., PEG-distearate, ethylene glycol distearate, etc.), PEG-alkyl ethers (e.g., PEG-2-octyldodecyl ether, etc.), sucrose fatty acid esters, and the like. In the sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention, the surfactant is generally present in an amount of about 0.05 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the conventional ingredients.

The film-forming agent may be any type of film-forming agent commonly used in cosmetics, examples of which include, but are not limited to, methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymers, trimethylsiloxysilicates, styrene/acrylic acid (ester) -based copolymers, and the like. In the sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention, the film-forming agent generally comprises about 0.05 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the conventional ingredients.

Such adjuvants include, but are not limited to, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, flavors, pH adjusters, and the like.

The emulsifier may be any type of emulsifier commonly used in cosmetics, examples of which include, but are not limited to, RH60(PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate, SEPIPLUS 400 (polyacrylate-13/polyisobutylene/polysorbate-20), PEG-9 dimethiconoethyl dimethicone, sorbitan olivil, steareth-21, PPG-13-decyltetraeth-24, cetearyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, and the like. In the sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention, the emulsifier is generally present in an amount of about 0.5 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the conventional ingredients.

The thickener may be any type of thickener commonly used in cosmetics, examples of which include, but are not limited to, carbomer, xanthan gum, dextrin palmitate, acacia, distearyl dimethyl ammonium hectorite, polyethylene glycol-14M, polyethylene glycol-90M, succinoglycan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, and the like. In the sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention, the thickener is generally present in an amount of about 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the conventional ingredients.

The preservative may be any type of preservative commonly used in cosmetics, examples of which include, but are not limited to, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, chlorphenesin, and the like, as well as other preservative synergists such as pentanediol, hexanediol, octaethylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, and the like. In the sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention, the preservative is generally present in an amount of about 0.01 to 2% by weight based on the total weight of the conventional ingredients.

The pH adjustor may be any type of pH adjustor commonly used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include, but are not limited to, citric acid, sodium citrate, arginine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, tromethamine, and the like. The type and amount can be specifically selected by those skilled in the art as desired.

The sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention may be prepared by any suitable method known in the art. For example, the preparation can be carried out according to a process known in the art using a dissolving tank, an emulsifying pot, a disperser, a transfer pump, and the like, which are generally used in the cosmetic field. For example, the water-soluble substance can be first put into a water-phase dissolving kettle, the oil-soluble substance (such as sunscreen agent, grease) can be put into an oil-phase dissolving kettle, and the two kettles are heated to about 80 ℃ respectively, wherein the raw material which is easy to cake can be pre-dispersed by a disperser; dispersing with suitable solvent and dispersant, homogenizing for 5-10min, adding oil phase, and homogenizing for 5-10 min; after homogenizing, delivering the oil phase and the water phase into an emulsifying pot, and homogenizing and emulsifying for about 5-15 min; after emulsification is finished, cooling the temperature of the material body to normal temperature, optionally adding essence, preservative and the like, and adjusting the pH of the product as required; and after the relevant detection indexes are qualified, filling and discharging.

The above preparation processes are merely exemplary, and those skilled in the art can make various dosage forms such as spray, lotion, cream, gel/jelly, foundation/air cushion, etc. by increasing, decreasing or adjusting according to the dosage form requirements.

Examples

The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the technical solutions of the present invention and do not limit the scope of the present invention. All such substitutions and modifications will be apparent to those skilled in the art and are intended to be included within the scope of the present invention.

Example 1: sunscreen creams 1-3 were prepared and tested for sunscreen efficacy

Note: SEPIPLUS 400 is polyacrylate-13/polyisobutylene/polysorbate-20, BEMT is bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and EHMC is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

The preparation process of the sunscreen cream comprises the following steps:

1) phase A: weighing deionized water and poloxamer 407, and stirring until the deionized water and the poloxamer 407 are dissolved for later use;

2) phase B: weighing 2g of BEMT and 10g of EHMC, heating at 80 ℃ until the BEMT and the EHMC are dissolved and transparent, adding SEPIPLUS 400 and stirring uniformly, and then adding 8g of dioctyl carbonate and stirring uniformly for later use; and

3) mixing the phase A and the phase B, emulsifying and homogenizing for 5min, and discharging.

The procedure for testing the sunscreen efficacy was as follows:

1) taking a 0.032g sample, smearing the sample on a PMMA plate, and balancing for 20min in a dark place;

2) the SPF values of the samples were tested using UV 2000S, with 12 sites selected per plate; and

3) and after the SPF test is finished, placing the PMMA plate coated with the sample in an Atlas irradiation box for irradiation, and after the irradiation is finished, testing the PA value of the sample by using UV 2000S.

The results of the sunscreen efficacy test are as follows:

the test results show that poloxamer 407 can significantly improve the SPF and PA values of sunscreen cosmetics, thereby significantly improving sunscreen efficacy.

Example 2: sunscreen cream 4 was prepared and tested for sunscreen efficacy

In this example, sunscreen 4 having the following formulation was prepared and compared with sunscreens 1 and 2.

Note: RH60 is PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, which is also a nonionic surfactant.

The procedure for preparing sunscreen 4 and the procedure for testing sunscreen efficacy were the same as in example 1.

The results of the sunscreen efficacy test are as follows:

the test results show that poloxamer 407 can significantly improve the sunscreen effect of sunscreen cosmetics, while RH60, which is a nonionic surfactant, has no improvement effect on sunscreen effect.

Example 3: sunscreen creams 5 and 6 were prepared and tested for sunscreen efficacy

In this example, sunscreen creams 5 and 6 having the following formulations were prepared.

Note: DHHB is diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate

The procedure for preparing sunscreen creams 5 and 6 and the procedure for testing sunscreen efficacy were the same as in example 1.

The results of the sunscreen efficacy test are as follows:

the above test results show that poloxamer 407 significantly increases the sunscreen efficacy of a sunscreen comprising a combination of BEMT and EHMC, and also increases the sunscreen efficacy of a sunscreen comprising a combination of DHHB and EHMC, indicating that the sunscreen potentiating effect of poloxamer 407 is not limited to fixed known sunscreens or combinations thereof.

Example 4: sunscreen emulsion A and comparative sunscreen emulsion B

This example provides a sunscreen a containing poloxamer 407 and a comparative sunscreen B containing no poloxamer 407, formulated as follows:

the preparation process of the sunscreen emulsion comprises the following steps:

1) weighing 1-9 of phase A in sequence, heating at 80 deg.C, stirring, and cooling;

2) weighing phase B components 15-19 in sequence, heating at 80 deg.C for dissolving, and stirring; separately weighing phenethyl alcohol benzoate and dextrin palmitate (components 13 and 14), heating at 90-92 deg.C for dissolving, adding phase B, stirring, and cooling;

3) weighing the components 20-26 of phase C in sequence, stirring thoroughly for dispersing, homogenizing for 5min, transferring to phase B, mixing, and homogenizing for 5min to obtain phase BC;

4) weighing 27-32 of the component of phase D in sequence, stirring thoroughly for dispersing, homogenizing for 5min, transferring to phase BC, mixing, and homogenizing for 5min to obtain phase BCD;

5) weighing 33-34 of the phase E, adding the component into the BCD phase, stirring and dispersing, and homogenizing for 5min to obtain a BCDE phase; and

6) adding phase A into BCDE phase, stirring, emulsifying and homogenizing for 5min, adding 10-12 of phase A respectively, homogenizing again for 5min, and discharging.

The results of the tests for sunscreen efficacy of sunscreen a and comparative sunscreen B are as follows:

the technical solutions of the above-mentioned embodiments are the preferred embodiments of the present invention, and besides, poloxamer 407 of the present invention can also be applied to various cosmetics such as sunscreen spray, BB cream, foundation make-up liquid, etc., and several modifications and changes can be made without departing from the principle of the present invention, and these modifications and changes should be considered to be within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. Use of poloxamer 407 as sunscreen synergist in sunscreen cosmetic.

2. Use according to claim 1, wherein poloxamer 407 is present in the sunscreen cosmetic in an amount of 0.4-3%, preferably 0.5-2.5%, more preferably 0.6-1.5%, based on the total weight of the sunscreen cosmetic.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the sunscreen cosmetic comprises a sunscreen selected from the group consisting of: DHHB, EHMC, BEMT, HMS, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof.

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein poloxamer 407 increases the sun protection factor SPF of the sunscreen cosmetic by 20-55%.

5. A method of increasing the sun protection efficacy of a sunscreen cosmetic comprising adding poloxamer 407 as a sun protection synergist to the sunscreen cosmetic.

6. The method according to claim 5, wherein poloxamer 407 is present in the sunscreen cosmetic in an amount of 0.4-3%, preferably 0.5-2.5%, more preferably 0.6-1.5%, based on the total weight of the sunscreen cosmetic.

7. The method of claim 5 or 6, wherein the sunscreen cosmetic comprises a sunscreen selected from the group consisting of: DHHB, EHMC, BEMT, HMS, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof.

8. The method according to any one of claims 5-7, wherein poloxamer 407 increases the sun protection factor SPF of the sunscreen cosmetic by 20-55%.

9. A sunscreen cosmetic comprising a sunscreen and poloxamer 407.

10. A sunscreen cosmetic according to claim 9 wherein poloxamer 407 is present in the sunscreen cosmetic in an amount of 0.4-3%, preferably 0.5-2.5%, more preferably 0.6-1.5% based on the total weight of the sunscreen cosmetic.

11. The sunscreen cosmetic of claim 9 or 10, wherein the sunscreen agent is selected from DHHB, EHMC, BEMT, HMS, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof.

12. The sunscreen cosmetic of any of claims 9-11, wherein poloxamer 407 increases the sun protection factor SPF of the sunscreen cosmetic by 20-55%.