CN111528566A - Method for manufacturing chest organ pleat structure of clothes - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing chest organ pleat structure of clothes Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111528566A
CN111528566A CN202010406734.5A CN202010406734A CN111528566A CN 111528566 A CN111528566 A CN 111528566A CN 202010406734 A CN202010406734 A CN 202010406734A CN 111528566 A CN111528566 A CN 111528566A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
organ
pleat
fold
sewing
accordion
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Pending
Application number
CN202010406734.5A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
王淑华
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Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment
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Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment
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Application filed by Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment filed Critical Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment
Priority to CN202010406734.5A priority Critical patent/CN111528566A/en
Publication of CN111528566A publication Critical patent/CN111528566A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/04Making patterns by modelling on the human body
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/06Patterns on paper

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for manufacturing a chest organ pleat structure of clothes, which comprises the following steps of determining the direction of a three-dimensional pleat, calculating the size and the angle of the pleat, drawing a line, cutting, folding, cutting, unfolding, splicing again to form a turn, finally molding and forming, wherein the appearance of the new organ pleat is a geometric turn vertical surface, the plane and the three-dimensional can be connected and converted, the angle of the turn surface can be adjusted according to the outline and the structure of the clothes, a three-dimensional abstract decorative visual effect is formed on the clothes, the molded pleat structure has more artistic feeling, and the molding has more spatial feeling and future feeling.

Description

Method for manufacturing chest organ pleat structure of clothes
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of garment manufacturing, in particular to a method for manufacturing a chest organ pleat structure of a garment.
Background
The common accordion pleat has single modeling and more linear modeling, has limitation to the three-dimensional modeling of some innovative clothing design works, and has the following specific performances:
1. the clothes are monotonous in shape, basic shape elements are straight lines, and turning change of angles cannot be finished;
2. the visual effect is flat, the rich visual perception effect can not be completed, and the shapes with geometric, three-dimensional and multi-angle turning can not be realized, and the rich and variable space sense is lacked.
3. Straight line thinking can hinder designers from exploring rich and varied creative three-dimensional garment shapes.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems, the invention provides a method for manufacturing a chest organ pleat structure of clothes, which comprises the following steps of determining the direction of a three-dimensional pleat, calculating the size and the angle of the pleat, drawing a line, cutting, folding, cutting and unfolding, splicing again, forming a turn, and finally molding and forming.
In order to achieve the technical purpose and achieve the technical effect, the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a method of making a breast accordion pleat structure of a garment comprising the steps of:
step 1: determining the direction of organ folds, and sticking a modeling line on the chest position by using a black marking line on the mannequin;
step 2, calculating the size and the angle of the fold, developing the modeling on the mannequin by using copy paper, designing the fold in the outline and drawing a design draft;
and step 3: covering parchment paper on a design draft, expanding 2 folds at the upper end of an organ fold according to the design draft, expanding the rest folds according to the thickness of the required organ fold, cutting the rest folds along the central line, and folding the thickness of the organ fold;
and 4, step 4: fixing a paper pattern made of parchment paper on grey cloth to develop an organ pleat integral shape, and leaving seams at the inner side and the outer side edge;
and 5: folding the cut sample supplementing sheets along the center line, and sewing the back side according to a sample cleaning line;
step 6: cutting a notch at a positioning point at the position of a fold at the edge of the accordion pleat;
and 7: making another accordion pleat according to the above steps;
and 8: and sewing two prepared organ pleats according to the net sample lines.
Further, in step 4, the distance between the inner side seam and the outer side seam is 0.2cm or 0.3cm and 1 cm.
Further, after the accordion pleat is formed, the refraction smoothing of the front surface of the edge and the burr removing treatment of the seaming position are needed.
Furthermore, after the organ folds are sewn and molded, ironing can be adopted to make the folds three-dimensional.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the innovation of the stereo-modeling of the accordion pleat is mainly reflected in the following aspects:
1. the appearance of the accordion folds is a geometric turning vertical surface, and a plane and a solid can be connected and converted; the angle of the turning surface can be adjusted according to the outline and the structure of the garment;
2. forming a three-dimensional abstract decorative visual effect on the garment;
3. the modeling is originated from a Dike art form, is a classic decorative art, has the following characteristics: the structure of the formed pleat has more artistic sense, and the modeling has more space sense and future sense.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic view of the overall structure of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of the design of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of the clipping position in step 3 of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to fig. 1-3, so that the advantages and features of the present invention can be more easily understood by those skilled in the art, and the scope of the present invention can be more clearly and clearly defined.
A method of making a breast accordion pleat structure of a garment, comprising the steps of:
step 1: determining the direction of organ folds, and sticking a modeling line on the chest position by using a black marking line on the mannequin;
step 2, calculating the size and the angle of the fold, developing the modeling on the mannequin by using copy paper, designing the fold in the outline and drawing a design draft;
and step 3: covering parchment paper on a design draft, expanding 2 folds at the upper end of an organ fold according to the design draft, expanding the rest folds according to the thickness of the required organ fold, cutting the rest folds along the central line, and folding the thickness of the organ fold;
and 4, step 4: fixing a paper pattern made of parchment paper on grey cloth to develop an organ pleat integral shape, and leaving seams at the inner side and the outer side edge;
and 5: folding the cut sample supplementing sheets along the center line, and sewing the back side according to a sample cleaning line;
step 6: cutting a notch at a positioning point at the position of a fold at the edge of the accordion pleat;
and 7: making another accordion pleat according to the above steps;
and 8: and sewing two prepared organ pleats according to the net sample lines.
The distance between the inner side seam and the outer side seam is 0.2cm or 0.3cm, the distance between the outer side seam and the outer side edge is 1cm, the refraction smoothing of the front side of the edge and the deburring of the sewing position are needed after the organ pleat is sewn and formed, and the pleat can be made to be three-dimensional by adopting an ironing mode after the organ pleat is sewn and formed.
The specific implementation mode is as follows:
firstly, determining the direction of organ folds, and sticking a modeling line on the chest position by using a black marking line on a mannequin; then, the amount of accordion folding is designed: calculating the size and angle of the pleat, developing the model on the mannequin with copy paper, slightly modifying the model on the paper, and designing the interior of the outline, as shown in FIG. 2; then, a paper pattern is made by a paper folding method: covering parchment paper on a design draft, drawing the first three folds according to the design draft, then designing the thickness of the third organ fold, drawing on copy paper, then breaking along the center line, folding the thickness, and making the method of the later folds same, as shown in fig. 3; then carrying out sample development and volume release: fixing a paper pattern made of parchment paper on grey cloth by a needle, tracing the outline once, tracing the position of a fold, leaving a seam of 0.2-0.3cm on the inner side, and leaving a seam of 1cm on the other three sides; then sewing: folding the cut sample sheet into a front side and a back side, and sewing the line according to the clean sample line; then, cutting a cut, and cutting a cut at the positioning point of the accordion pleat; then sewing two prepared organ pleats according to the net sample lines; finally ironing according to the drawing lines to make the pleat become three-dimensional, the edge refracts light positively, the back side is put at the sewing head, the middle sewing is split by the nail, the chest organ pleat is shaped and formed, a series of new artistic expression forms of Dike art are explored on the clothes design, the relation of the plane, the three-dimensional and the human body of the clothes is researched by applying the American law of form, the multiple expression mode of the three-dimensional pleat is explored, the organ pleat can exist as a local bright spot in the clothes, and can directly exist as a whole, no matter how to apply, the geometric abstract artistic decoration effect can be formed, the basic steps of the shaping of the new wind organ pleat are as follows: determining the direction of the three-dimensional fold → calculating the size and angle of the fold → drawing a line → cutting → folding → cutting and unfolding → re-splicing → forming a turn and shaping.
The above description is only an embodiment of the present invention, and not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications of equivalent structures and equivalent processes performed by the present specification and drawings, or directly or indirectly applied to other related technical fields, are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (4)

1. A method of making a breast accordion pleat structure of a garment, comprising the steps of:
step 1: determining the direction of organ folds, and sticking a modeling line on the chest position by using a black marking line on the mannequin;
step 2, calculating the size and the angle of the fold, developing the modeling on the mannequin by using copy paper, designing the fold in the outline and drawing a design draft;
and step 3: covering parchment paper on a design draft, expanding 2 folds at the upper end of an organ fold according to the design draft, expanding the rest folds according to the thickness of the required organ fold, cutting the rest folds along the central line, and folding the thickness of the organ fold;
and 4, step 4: fixing a paper pattern made of parchment paper on grey cloth to develop an organ pleat integral shape, and leaving seams at the inner side and the outer side edge;
and 5: folding the cut sample supplementing sheets along the center line, and sewing the back side according to a sample cleaning line;
step 6: cutting a notch at a positioning point at the position of a fold at the edge of the accordion pleat;
and 7: making another accordion pleat according to the above steps;
and 8: and sewing two prepared organ pleats according to the net sample lines.
2. The method for making the chest accordion structure of the garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein in step 4, the distance of the inner seam is 0.2cm or 0.3cm and the distance of the outer seam is 1 cm.
3. The method for making the organ pleat structure on the chest of the clothes as claimed in claim 1, wherein the organ pleat sewing is performed with the light refraction smoothing of the front surface of the edge and the burr removing treatment of the sewing position.
4. The method for making the accordion pleat structure of the chest of the garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein the accordion pleats are formed by sewing and ironing to make the pleats three-dimensional.
CN202010406734.5A 2020-05-14 2020-05-14 Method for manufacturing chest organ pleat structure of clothes Pending CN111528566A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202010406734.5A CN111528566A (en) 2020-05-14 2020-05-14 Method for manufacturing chest organ pleat structure of clothes

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202010406734.5A CN111528566A (en) 2020-05-14 2020-05-14 Method for manufacturing chest organ pleat structure of clothes

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN111528566A true CN111528566A (en) 2020-08-14

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CN202010406734.5A Pending CN111528566A (en) 2020-05-14 2020-05-14 Method for manufacturing chest organ pleat structure of clothes

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113397259A (en) * 2021-06-30 2021-09-17 江西服装学院 Clothes making device and method based on three-dimensional modeling conversion

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
布多多: "很详细的来学习一下风琴褶衬衫的制作方法吧", 《很详细的来学习一下风琴褶衬衫的制作方法吧 *
服装云教育: "超详细风琴褶连衣裙的制作教程", 《超详细风琴褶连衣裙的制作教程 *

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113397259A (en) * 2021-06-30 2021-09-17 江西服装学院 Clothes making device and method based on three-dimensional modeling conversion
CN113397259B (en) * 2021-06-30 2023-01-31 江西服装学院 Clothing manufacturing device and method

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Application publication date: 20200814

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