CN111364146B - Warp-wise elastic woven fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Warp-wise elastic woven fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN111364146B CN111364146B CN202010180180.1A CN202010180180A CN111364146B CN 111364146 B CN111364146 B CN 111364146B CN 202010180180 A CN202010180180 A CN 202010180180A CN 111364146 B CN111364146 B CN 111364146B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B7/00—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising
- D06B7/08—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising of fabrics of indefinite length
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C21/00—Shrinking by compressing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
- D06M11/59—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides with ammonia; with complexes of organic amines with inorganic substances
- D06M11/61—Liquid ammonia
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/38—Polyurethanes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides a warp-wise elastic woven fabric and a preparation method thereof. The warp-wise elastic woven fabric comprises warp yarns and weft yarns; the warp comprises pure spinning yarns of cellulose fibers and/or blended yarns mainly containing the cellulose fibers, wherein the ratio of the cellulose fiber components in the blended yarns of the warp is more than or equal to 50% and the blended yarns do not contain elastic yarns; the weft yarns comprise one or more of pure spinning yarns of cellulose fibers, blended yarns mainly containing the cellulose fibers and elastic yarns; wherein the content of the cellulose fiber in the blended yarn of the weft yarn is more than or equal to 50 percent. The warp-wise elastic tatting fabric has the warp-wise elastic elongation of 10-15%, the residual elongation of 4-8% and the elastic recovery of 55-85%; the knitted fabric is prepared under the condition of 135N-175N of low-tension liquid ammonia, is low in cost and high in efficiency, and has comfortable elasticity similar to that of knitted fabrics.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and relates to a warp-wise elastic woven fabric and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the requirements of people on the fabric, the fabric has good hand feeling, moisture absorption and air permeability, high elasticity, good resilience, easy care after washing, comfortable wearing and the like, various types of four-side stretch fabrics appear in the market in recent years, and the four-side stretch woven fabric has the function of elasticity in the warp and weft directions, so that the manufactured shirt can release people from the constraint of the traditional shirt, can move freely after being worn, has no discomfort and is deeply favored by consumers. The warp elasticity of the four-side woven fabric woven by the elastic shuttle in the market is realized mainly by using elastic yarns, the production difficulty of the four-side woven fabric woven by the elastic shuttle is the quality problem that the fabric surface is easy to blister due to uneven warp tension caused by the use of the elastic yarns in the warp direction, and the production processes are difficult to control, high in production difficulty and low in efficiency.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the problems in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a warp-wise elastic woven fabric; the invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the warp-wise elastic woven fabric, in the preparation method, the warp direction mainly takes cellulose fibers, large shrinkage is generated in the low-tension liquid ammonia treatment process, certain elasticity is given to the fabric, and the problem that production processes are difficult to control due to uneven tension of warp-wise elastic yarns is solved.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical means:
in one aspect, the invention provides a warp-wise elastic woven fabric, wherein the warp-wise elastic woven fabric comprises warp yarns and weft yarns;
the warp comprises pure spinning yarns of cellulose fibers and/or blended yarns mainly containing the cellulose fibers, wherein the ratio of the cellulose fiber components in the blended yarns of the warp is more than or equal to 50% and the blended yarns do not contain elastic yarns;
the weft yarns comprise one or more of pure spinning yarns of cellulose fibers, blended yarns mainly containing the cellulose fibers and elastic yarns; wherein the content of the cellulose fiber in the blended yarn of the weft yarn is more than or equal to 50 percent.
In the warp-wise elastic woven fabric, the warp yarns are made of a fabric mainly comprising cellulose fibers (such as cotton or regenerated cellulose fibers) and no spandex or other elastic yarns are added in the warp direction. The blended yarn can be single yarn or plied yarn, and the elastic yarn can be elastic single yarn or elastic plied yarn; the weaving method is a conventional weave structure of the woven fabric, the density of the warp and weft directions is the common density of any woven fabric, and the yarn count of the warp and weft yarns is any yarn count and is not limited.
In the warp-stretch woven fabric, preferably, the weft yarn includes an elastic yarn and a pure yarn of cellulose fiber and/or a blended yarn of cellulose fiber as a main component, which are arranged alternately.
In the warp-wise elastic woven fabric, the density of warp yarns is preferably 110-188 yarns/inch; the density of the weft yarns is 80-130 yarns/inch.
In the warp-stretch woven fabric, the warp-stretch woven fabric preferably has a warp-stretch elongation of 10% to 15%, a residual elongation of 4% to 8%, and an elastic recovery of 55% to 85%.
In the warp-wise elastically woven fabric, the warp yarns preferably comprise pure cotton combed yarns and/or cotton/tencel blended yarns and the like.
In the warp-wise elastic woven fabric, preferably, in the cotton/tencel blended yarn, the mass ratio of cotton is 50% -70%, and the mass ratio of tencel is 30% -50%.
In the warp-wise elastically woven fabric, the weft yarns preferably comprise one or more of pure cotton combed yarns, cotton/tencel blended yarns, cotton/spandex core-spun yarns, CTN/sorona blended yarns and the like.
In the warp-wise elastic woven fabric, preferably, in the weft yarns, the mass ratio of the cotton to the mass ratio of the tencel in the cotton/tencel blended yarn is 50% -70%, and the mass ratio of the tencel in the tencel blended yarn is 30% -50%.
In the warp-wise elastic woven fabric, preferably, in the CTN/sorona blended yarn, the mass ratio of CTN is 70%, and the mass ratio of sorona is 30%.
On the other hand, the invention provides a preparation method of warp-wise elastic woven fabric, which comprises the following steps:
weaving the warp yarns and the weft yarns through a weaving process to obtain woven fabric, and finishing the woven fabric to obtain warp-wise elastic woven fabric;
and in the post-finishing process, performing low-tension liquid ammonia treatment on the woven fabric, wherein the low tension is 135N-175N.
In the invention, the inventor adopts a fabric with warp yarns mainly comprising cellulose fibers (such as cotton or regenerated cellulose fibers) in the warp direction, does not add any spandex or other elastic yarns in the warp direction, utilizes a low-tension liquid ammonia shrinkage technology, utilizes the fact that the cellulose fibers can be quickly swelled in the warp direction of the fibers to become thicker but the length of the fibers is slightly elongated during liquid ammonia treatment, the fabric can be shrunk violently, and the diameter of the fibers can be reduced after liquid ammonia in the fibers is changed into gas to volatilize, and the swelling-shrinking process can endow the fabric with certain elasticity. The method is low in cost, and solves the technical problems of production and quality problems of cloth cover bubbling caused by uneven warp tension in production of the elastic woven fabric containing elastic yarns in the warp direction in the current textile industry.
In the present invention, "low tension" means a cloth feed roller tension.
In the above method, the weaving process preferably further comprises various steps of design of tissue specifications, yarn dyeing and preparation steps (such as slashing, warping, etc.); the post-finishing process also comprises a plurality of working procedures of desizing, mercerizing, shaping and preshrinking.
The technological process of yarn dyeing, preparation and weaving is the same as that of the conventional woven fabric.
In the above method, preferably, in the post-finishing process, each step is performed under low tension control.
In the above method, preferably, the low-tension liquid ammonia treatment step is performed after the setting or preshrinking step, and the low-tension liquid ammonia treatment step further includes the setting and preshrinking steps.
In the method, preferably, the liquid ammonia treatment is low-tension liquid ammonia mercerization, and the speed of the liquid ammonia mercerization is 40-60 m/min.
The liquid ammonia treatment is low-tension liquid ammonia mercerization, and in the low-tension processing process, cellulose fibers can be fully subjected to liquid ammonia shrinkage, so that elasticity of the fabric is structurally generated, and the cellulose fibers can be fully reacted in the liquid ammonia by setting the speed of the liquid ammonia mercerization to be 40-60 m/min.
In the above method, preferably, the post-finishing process flow includes one of the following process flows:
desizing → sizing → preshrinking → liquid ammonia treatment → sizing → preshrinking,
Desizing → mercerizing → sizing → preshrinking → liquid ammonia processing → sizing → preshrinking,
Desizing → sizing → liquid ammonia treatment → sizing → preshrinking,
Desizing → mercerizing → sizing → liquid ammonia treatment → sizing → preshrinking.
In the above method, preferably, the desizing process includes: performing open-width desizing on the woven fabric on a desizing machine, adopting amylase to desize, controlling low tension, stacking for 35min at room temperature, and performing dry cropping, wherein the speed is 80 m/min.
In the above method, preferably, the shaping process before the liquid ammonia treatment process includes: the speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 148-154 cm, the overfeeding is 10/2 or 4/0 (low tension control is shown), the temperature is 150 ℃, and the width of the falling width is 147-153 cm.
In the above method, preferably, the shaping process after the liquid ammonia treatment process includes: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 149-153 cm, the overfeeding is 6/3 (expressed as low tension control), the temperature is 150 ℃, and the width of the falling width is 148-152 cm.
In the above method, preferably, the mercerizing process includes: the vehicle speed is 60m/min, the alkali concentration is 18BE (Baume degree), the fixed width is 158-162 cm, and the falling width is 144-145 cm.
In the above method, preferably, the pre-shrinking process before the liquid ammonia treatment step includes: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the fabric shrinkage rate is-10%, the value of overfeed/speed ratio is 0.870 (expressed as low tension control), the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50mm, and the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃.
In the above method, preferably, the pre-shrinking process after the liquid ammonia treatment step includes: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the value of overfeed/speed ratio is-12 (expressed as low tension control), the width of falling width is 143-150 cm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50mm, the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃, the pressure of a top roll is 10Pa, and the tension is 2N.
In the invention, the design of the post-finishing process also plays a key role, which is the difficult point and the key point of the invention, the working procedures of desizing, mercerizing, shaping, preshrinking and liquid ammonia treatment all need to follow the principle of low tension, and the small or no radial elasticity is caused by the overlarge tension.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
in the preparation method of the warp-wise elastic woven fabric, the warp adopts the fabric mainly containing the cellulose fiber, no spandex or other elastic yarns are added in the warp direction, the low-tension liquid ammonia shrinkage technology is utilized, and the whole post-finishing process is carried out under the control of low tension, so that the fabric can be endowed with certain elasticity. The prepared elastic woven fabric has comfortable elasticity similar to that of a knitted fabric, and a shirt made of the fabric is more leisure and free from the constraint of a traditional shirt by consumers, so that the requirement of pursuing curve beauty and comfort of modern consumers is met. The production technical problem of the four-side woven fabric is solved, namely: the warp tension is uneven, the production processes (yarn dyeing, spooling, warping, sizing and the like) are difficult to control, and the quality problem of foaming of the cloth surface is easy to generate; the elasticity index of the fabric produced by the preparation method of the invention can reach the textile industry standard and the customer requirement, and the warp-direction elastic elongation is as follows: 10% -15% (test method: ASTMD3107-07(2015)), residual elongation 4% -8% (test method: ASTMD3107-07(2015)), elastic recovery: 55-85% (test method: ASTMD3107-07 (2015)); compared with the use of elastic yarns, the production method of the invention reduces the yarn cost of the cellulose fiber yarns for warp yarns, simultaneously reduces the production difficulty, improves the production efficiency, and greatly reduces the overall cost, therefore, the product of the invention has more market competitiveness.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention will be described in detail below in order to clearly understand the technical features, objects, and advantages of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the practical scope of the present invention.
Example 1:
the embodiment provides a warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps:
the production process flow of the fabric comprises the following steps: designing the tissue specification, dyeing yarn, preparing, weaving and finishing.
In the design of the weave specification, the warp and weft yarns of the fabric adopt 40-inch pure cotton combed yarns, the warp density of the fabric is 114 pieces/inch, the weft density of the fabric is 80 pieces/inch, and the weave is a plain weave.
The technological process of yarn dyeing, preparation and weaving is the same as that of the conventional yarn-dyed fabric, and the woven fabric is woven to obtain the woven fabric.
The post-processing process flow comprises the following steps: desizing, shaping, preshrinking, liquid ammonia treatment, shaping and preshrinking.
The desizing process comprises the following steps: the woven fabric is subjected to open-width desizing on a desizing machine, amylase is adopted for desizing, the speed is 80m/min, the woven fabric is piled for 35min at room temperature, and the fabric is dried and laid.
A shaping process: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 154cm, the overfeeding is 10/2 (expressed as low tension control), the temperature is 150 ℃, and the width of the falling width is 153 cm.
The pre-shrinking process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the fabric shrinkage rate is-10%, the value of overfeed/speed ratio is 0.870 (expressed as low tension control), the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50, and the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃.
Liquid ammonia treatment process: low tension liquid ammonia mercerization, in 135N low tension course of working, the liquid ammonia shrink can be carried out more fully to the cellulose fibre to make the surface fabric realize elastic production structurally, in order to make the cellulose fibre fully react in liquid ammonia, the speed of a motor vehicle of liquid ammonia mercerization is 50 meters/min.
A shaping process: vehicle speed 80m/min, width of fixed width 153cm, temperature 150 deg.C, width of falling width 152cm, overfeeding 6/3 (shown as low tension control).
The pre-shrinking process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the overfeed/speed ratio is-12 (expressed as low tension control), the breadth of the falling width is 150cm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50mm, the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃, the pressure of a top roll is 10Pa, and the tension is 2N.
The warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric is obtained through the finishing process, and the physical indexes of the warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric are shown in the following table 1:
table 1:
example 2:
the embodiment provides a warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps:
the production process flow of the fabric comprises the following steps: designing the tissue specification, dyeing yarn, preparing, weaving and finishing.
In the design of the weave specification, the warp and weft yarns of the fabric adopt 40-inch pure cotton combed yarns, the warp density of the fabric is 114 pieces/inch, the weft density of the fabric is 80 pieces/inch, and the weave is a plain weave.
The technological process of yarn dyeing, preparation and weaving is the same as that of the conventional yarn-dyed fabric, and the woven fabric is woven to obtain the woven fabric.
The post-processing process flow comprises the following steps: desizing, mercerizing, shaping, preshrinking, liquid ammonia treatment, shaping and preshrinking.
The desizing process comprises the following steps: the woven fabric is subjected to open-width desizing on a desizing machine, amylase is adopted for desizing, the speed is 80m/min, the woven fabric is piled for 35min at room temperature, and the fabric is dried and laid.
The mercerizing process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 60m/min, the alkali concentration is 18BE, the fixed width is 162cm, and the falling width is 145 cm.
A shaping process: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 148cm, the overfeeding is 4/0 (expressed as low tension control), the temperature is 150 ℃, and the width of the falling width is 147 cm.
The pre-shrinking process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the fabric shrinkage rate is-10%, the value of overfeed/speed ratio is 0.870 (expressed as low tension control), the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50mm, and the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃.
Liquid ammonia treatment process: low tension liquid ammonia mercerization, in 150N low tension course of working, the liquid ammonia shrink can be carried out more fully to the cellulose fibre to make the surface fabric realize elastic production structurally, in order to make the cellulose fibre fully react in liquid ammonia, the speed of a motor vehicle of liquid ammonia mercerization is 50 meters/min.
A shaping process: vehicle speed 80m/min, width of fixed width 153cm, temperature 150 deg.C, width of falling width 152cm, overfeeding 6/3 (shown as low tension control).
The pre-shrinking process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the overfeed/speed ratio is-12 (expressed as low tension control), the breadth of the falling width is 150cm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50mm, the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃, the pressure of a top roll is 10Pa, and the tension is 2N.
The warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric is obtained through the finishing process, and the physical indexes of the warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric are shown in the following table 2:
table 2:
example 3:
the embodiment provides a warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps:
the production process flow of the fabric comprises the following steps: designing the tissue specification, dyeing yarn, preparing, weaving and finishing.
In the weave specification design, the warp yarns of the fabric adopt 50-inch pure cotton combed yarns, the weft yarns adopt 70% CTN 30% sorona single yarns, the yarn count is 50-inch, the warp density of the fabric is 130 pieces/inch, the weft density of the fabric is 88 pieces/inch, and the weave is a plain weave.
The technological process of yarn dyeing, preparation and weaving is the same as that of the conventional yarn-dyed fabric, and the woven fabric is woven to obtain the woven fabric.
The post-processing process flow comprises the following steps: desizing, sizing, liquid ammonia treatment, sizing and preshrinking.
The desizing process comprises the following steps: the woven fabric is subjected to open-width desizing on a desizing machine, amylase is adopted for desizing, the speed is 80m/min, the woven fabric is piled for 35min at room temperature, and the fabric is dried and laid.
A shaping process: low tension control, vehicle speed 80m/min, width of fixed width 150cm, overfeeding 10/2 (expressed as low tension control), temperature 150 ℃, width of falling width 150 cm.
Liquid ammonia treatment process: low tension liquid ammonia mercerization, in 140N low tension course of working, the liquid ammonia shrink can be carried out more fully to the cellulose fibre to make the surface fabric realize elastic production structurally, in order to make the cellulose fibre fully react in liquid ammonia, the speed of a motor vehicle of liquid ammonia mercerization is 50 meters/min.
A shaping process: vehicle speed 80m/min, width of fixed width 152cm, temperature 150 deg.C, width of falling width 151cm, overfeeding 6/3 (shown as low tension control).
The pre-shrinking process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the overfeed/speed ratio is-12 (expressed as low tension control), the breadth of the falling width is 147cm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50mm, the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃, the pressure of a top roller is 10Pa, and the tension is 2N.
The warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric is obtained through the finishing process, and the physical indexes of the warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric are shown in the following table 3:
table 3:
example 4:
the embodiment provides a warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps:
the production process flow of the fabric comprises the following steps: designing the tissue specification, dyeing yarn, preparing, weaving and finishing.
In the weave specification design, the warp yarns of the fabric adopt 50-inch pure cotton combed yarns, the weft yarns adopt 70% CTN 30% sorona single yarns, the yarn count is 50-inch, the warp density of the fabric is 130 pieces/inch, the weft density of the fabric is 88 pieces/inch, and the weave is a plain weave.
The technological process of yarn dyeing, preparation and weaving is the same as that of the conventional yarn-dyed fabric, and the woven fabric is woven to obtain the woven fabric.
The post-processing process flow comprises the following steps: desizing, mercerizing, shaping, liquid ammonia treatment, shaping and preshrinking.
The desizing process comprises the following steps: the woven fabric is subjected to open-width desizing on a desizing machine, amylase is adopted for desizing, low tension is controlled, the speed is 80m/min, the woven fabric is piled for 35min at room temperature, and dry cropping is carried out.
The mercerizing process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 60m/min, the alkali concentration is 18BE, the fixed width is 158cm, and the falling width is 144 cm.
A shaping process: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 148cm, the overfeeding is 4/0 (expressed as low tension control), the temperature is 150 ℃, and the width of the falling width is 147 cm.
Liquid ammonia treatment process: in the 175N low tension processing process, the cellulose fiber can be more fully contracted by liquid ammonia, so that the fabric can realize elasticity in structure, and in order to fully react the cellulose fiber in the liquid ammonia, the speed of the liquid ammonia mercerization is 50 m/min.
A shaping process: vehicle speed 80m/min, width of fixed width 149cm, temperature 150 ℃, width of falling width 148cm, overfeeding 6/3 (expressed as low tension control).
The pre-shrinking process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the value of overfeed/speed ratio is-12 (expressed as low tension control), the width of falling width is 143cm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50mm, the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃, the pressure of a top roller is 10Pa, and the tension is 2N.
The warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric is obtained through the finishing process, and the physical indexes of the warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric are shown in the following table 4:
table 4:
comparative example 1:
the preparation method of the common all-cotton woven yarn-dyed fabric prepared by the comparative example under the normal liquid ammonia treatment comprises the following steps:
the production process flow of the fabric comprises the following steps: designing the tissue specification, dyeing yarn, preparing, weaving and finishing.
In the design of the weave specification, the warp and weft yarns of the fabric adopt 40-inch pure cotton combed yarns, the warp density of the fabric is 114 pieces/inch, the weft density of the fabric is 80 pieces/inch, and the weave is a plain weave.
The technological process of yarn dyeing, preparation and weaving is the same as that of the conventional yarn-dyed fabric, and the woven fabric is woven to obtain the woven fabric.
The post-processing process flow comprises the following steps: desizing, mercerizing, shaping, liquid ammonia treatment, shaping and preshrinking.
The desizing process comprises the following steps: the woven fabric is subjected to open-width desizing on a desizing machine, amylase is adopted for desizing, the speed is 80m/min, the woven fabric is piled for 35min at room temperature, and the fabric is dried and laid.
The mercerizing process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 60m/min, the alkali concentration is 18BE, the fixed width is 158cm, and the falling width is 144 cm.
A shaping process: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 148cm, the overfeeding is 2/0, the temperature is 150 ℃, and the width of the falling width is 147 cm.
Liquid ammonia treatment process: the tension of the liquid ammonia is 250N, and the speed of the liquid ammonia mercerization is 50 m/min.
A shaping process: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 149cm, the temperature is 150 ℃, the width of the falling width is 148cm, and the overfeeding is 2/0.
The pre-shrinking process comprises the steps of setting the vehicle speed at 80m/min, setting the value of overfeed/speed ratio at-5, setting the width of a falling width at 143cm, setting the temperature of a rubber blanket at 110-130 ℃, setting the thickness of the rubber blanket to be more than 50mm, setting the temperature of the blanket at 130 ℃, setting the pressure of a top roller at 15Pa and setting the tension at 6N.
The warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric is obtained through the finishing process, and the physical indexes of the warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric are shown in the following table 5:
table 5:
the experiment of the comparative example 1 shows that the warp elasticity of the fabric obtained by the warp and weft yarns mainly containing the cellulose fibers under the 250N tension liquid ammonia treatment process is far inferior to that of the warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric prepared by the low tension liquid ammonia treatment process.
Comparative example 2:
the comparative example provides a yarn-dyed fabric woven with ordinary warp and weft stretch yarns (cotton covered spandex), and the preparation method is as follows:
the production process flow of the fabric comprises the following steps: designing the tissue specification, dyeing yarn, preparing, weaving and finishing.
In the design of the weave specification, the warp and weft yarns of the fabric are elastic yarns (cotton-covered spandex) of 60 Nm/30 denier, the warp density of the fabric is 140 pieces/inch, the weft density of the fabric is 100 pieces/inch, and the weave is a plain weave.
The technological process of yarn dyeing, preparation and weaving is the same as that of the conventional yarn-dyed fabric, and the woven fabric is woven to obtain the woven fabric.
The post-processing process flow comprises the following steps: desizing, mercerizing, shaping, liquid ammonia treatment, shaping and preshrinking.
The desizing process comprises the following steps: the woven fabric is subjected to open-width desizing on a desizing machine, amylase is adopted for desizing, the speed is 80m/min, the woven fabric is piled for 35min at room temperature, and the fabric is dried and laid.
The mercerizing process comprises the following steps: the vehicle speed is 60m/min, the alkali concentration is 18BE, the fixed width is 158cm, and the falling width is 144 cm.
A shaping process: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 148cm, the overfeeding is 2/0, the temperature is 150 ℃, and the width of the falling width is 147 cm.
Liquid ammonia treatment process: the tension of the liquid ammonia is 250N, and the speed of the liquid ammonia mercerization is 50 m/min.
A shaping process: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 149cm, the temperature is 150 ℃, the width of the falling width is 148cm, and the overfeeding is 2/0.
The pre-shrinking process comprises the steps of setting the vehicle speed at 80m/min, setting the value of overfeed/speed ratio at-5, setting the width of a falling width at 143cm, setting the temperature of a rubber blanket at 110-130 ℃, setting the thickness of the rubber blanket to be more than 50mm, setting the temperature of the blanket at 130 ℃, setting the pressure of a top roller at 15Pa and setting the tension at 6N.
The physical indexes of the yarn-dyed fabric obtained through the finishing process are shown in the following table 6:
table 6:
the experiment of the comparative example 2 shows that the warp elasticity of the warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric obtained by using the warp and weft yarns mainly comprising the elastic yarns (cotton-covered spandex) under the 250N tension liquid ammonia treatment process is lower than that of the warp-wise all-cotton elastic yarn-dyed fabric prepared by using the low tension liquid ammonia treatment process.
Claims (15)
1. A preparation method of warp-wise elastic woven fabric comprises the following steps:
weaving the warp yarns and the weft yarns through a weaving process to obtain woven fabric, and finishing the woven fabric to obtain warp-wise elastic woven fabric;
in the post-finishing process, performing low-tension liquid ammonia treatment on the woven fabric, wherein the low tension is 135N-175N;
the post-finishing process flow comprises one of the following process flows:
desizing → sizing → preshrinking → liquid ammonia treatment → sizing → preshrinking,
Desizing → mercerizing → sizing → preshrinking → liquid ammonia processing → sizing → preshrinking,
Desizing → sizing → liquid ammonia treatment → sizing → preshrinking,
Desizing → mercerizing → sizing → liquid ammonia treatment → sizing → preshrinking;
in the post-finishing process, all working procedures are carried out under the control of low tension; the liquid ammonia treatment is low-tension liquid ammonia mercerization, and the speed of the liquid ammonia mercerization is 40-60 m/min;
the warp comprises pure spinning yarns of cellulose fibers and/or blended yarns mainly containing the cellulose fibers, wherein the ratio of the cellulose fiber components in the blended yarns of the warp is more than or equal to 50% and the blended yarns do not contain elastic yarns;
the weft yarns comprise one or more of pure spinning yarns of cellulose fibers, blended yarns mainly containing the cellulose fibers and elastic yarns; wherein the ratio of the cellulose fiber component in the blended yarn of the weft yarn is more than or equal to 50 percent;
the warp-wise elastic tatting fabric prepared by the method has the warp-wise elastic elongation of 10-15%, the residual elongation of 4-8% and the elastic recovery of 55-85%.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the weft yarn comprises a yarn of an elastic yarn interlaced with a pure yarn of cellulose fibers and/or a blended yarn of mainly cellulose fibers.
3. The method of claim 2, wherein the density of the warp yarns is 110-188 yarns/inch; the density of the weft yarns is 80-130 yarns/inch.
4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the warp yarns comprise pure cotton combed yarns and/or cotton/tencel blends.
5. The method as claimed in claim 4, wherein in the cotton/tencel blended yarn, the mass ratio of cotton is 50-70%, and the mass ratio of tencel is 30-50%.
6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the weft yarns comprise one or more of pure cotton combed yarns, cotton/tencel blended yarns, cotton/spandex core spun yarns and CTN/sorona blended yarns.
7. The method as claimed in claim 6, wherein in the cotton/tencel blended yarn, the mass ratio of cotton is 50-70%, and the mass ratio of tencel is 30-50%.
8. A method according to claim 6, wherein in the CTN/sorona blended yarn, the mass ratio of CTN is 70% and the mass ratio of sorona is 30%.
9. The method of claim 1, wherein the weaving process further comprises a plurality of steps of design to gauge, dyeing and preparation.
10. The method of claim 1, wherein the desizing process comprises: and (3) carrying out open-width desizing on the woven fabric on a desizing machine, adopting amylase to desize, stacking for 35min at room temperature at the speed of 80m/min, and carrying out dry cropping.
11. The method according to claim 1, wherein the sizing process before the liquid ammonia treatment process comprises: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 148-154 cm, the overfeeding is 10/2 or 4/0, the temperature is 150 ℃, and the width of the falling width is 147-153 cm.
12. The method of claim 1, wherein the sizing process after the liquid ammonia treatment process comprises: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the width of the fixed width is 149-153 cm, the overfeeding is 6/3, the temperature is 150 ℃, and the width of the falling width is 148-152 cm.
13. The method of claim 1, wherein the mercerization process comprises: the vehicle speed is 60m/min, the alkali concentration is 18BE, the fixed width is 158-162 cm, and the falling width is 144-145 cm.
14. The method of claim 1, wherein the preshrinking process prior to the liquid ammonia treatment process comprises: the vehicle speed is 80m/min, the fabric shrinkage rate is-10%, the value of overfeed/speed ratio is 0.870, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50mm, and the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃.
15. The method of claim 1, wherein the preshrinking process after the liquid ammonia treatment process comprises: the speed of the vehicle is 80m/min, the value of overfeed/speed ratio is-12, the width of falling breadth is 143-150 cm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110-130 ℃, the thickness of the rubber blanket is more than 50mm, the temperature of the blanket is 130 ℃, the pressure of a top roller is 10Pa, and the tension is 2N.
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| CN112064337B (en) * | 2020-08-11 | 2023-04-18 | 深圳全棉时代科技有限公司 | Natural elastic pure cotton gauze and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN111910421A (en) * | 2020-08-26 | 2020-11-10 | 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 | Antibacterial and anti-wrinkle functional fabric made of liquid ammonia cotton and taxus chinensis and preparation method of antibacterial and anti-wrinkle functional fabric |
| CN112813563B (en) * | 2020-12-31 | 2022-08-02 | 浙江汇纤纺织科技有限公司 | Sorona filament Richcel spun yarn variable-twist covered yarn fabric |
| CN113403719B (en) * | 2021-07-14 | 2022-04-12 | 魏桥纺织股份有限公司 | Elastic short fiber pure spun yarn of comfortable elastic silk and production process thereof |
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