CN111286855B

CN111286855B - Double-layer fabric knitting process for one-step weaving and forming with different internal and external functions

Info

Publication number: CN111286855B
Application number: CN202010165841.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 金子敏; 林剑叠; 赵明涛; 阎玉秀; 陶建伟
Original assignee: Zhejiang Bangjie Medical Technology Co Ltd; Zhejiang Shane Knitting Co ltd; Zhejiang Bangjie Digital Knitwear Co ltd; Zhejiang Sci Tech University ZSTU
Current assignee: Zhejiang Bangjie Medical Technology Co Ltd; Zhejiang Shane Knitting Co ltd; Zhejiang Bangjie Digital Knitwear Co ltd; Zhejiang Sci Tech University ZSTU
Priority date: 2020-03-11
Filing date: 2020-03-11
Publication date: 2021-09-21
Anticipated expiration: 2040-03-11
Also published as: CN111286855A

Abstract

The invention discloses a weaving process of a one-step forming seamless double-layer fabric with different internal and external functions. In the step A, a knitting opening is a lower opening of a fabric a, a plurality of rows of yarns are laid on a knitting needle pad, a single-piece half needle extends out of a half disc, a tying line is laid on the knitting needle pad and then the half disc is retracted, the grey fabric of the fabric a is knitted, all the knitting needles withdraw yarns, and the grey fabric of the fabric a is hung on the half needle; b, knitting a plurality of rows by using a knitting needle, extending the half needle out of the half disc again, transferring the tying line coil to a new knitting opening, and then retracting the half disc; step C, continuously knitting a plurality of rows by using the knitting needle, and repeating the operation of the step A by using the half needle; d, finishing weaving, namely newly weaving a lower rib top B in the step B, and repeating the step B by the half needle; and E, continuously knitting the fabric c by using the knitting needle until finishing. The seamless knitting and weaving process can weave fabrics with different functions of the inner layer fabric and the outer layer fabric of the skin body, can be formed in a one-step three-dimensional mode, and has the advantages of low manufacturing cost, short process flow and the like.

Description

Double-layer fabric knitting process for one-step weaving and forming with different internal and external functions

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of seamless knitting, in particular to a double-layer fabric knitting process for once weaving and forming with different internal and external functions.

Background

The double-layer garment knitted by the conventional knitting process is suitable for being worn in winter, and the outer layer and the close-fitting inner layer are made of the same tissues and materials, so that the close-fitting inner layer and the outer layer of the garment have the same performance and function; the clothes are spliced and sewn by weaving a single-layer fabric twice, cannot be formed in a three-dimensional mode at one time, have the problems of inaccurate size and position and the like in a splicing process, and produce sewing stitches.

The actual functional clothes need different functions of the close-fitting inner layer and the external contact layer. The fabric material of the inner layer contacting with the human body requires special functions of moisture absorption, sweat releasing, far infrared and the like, has a warm-keeping function, and meets the requirement of a comfortable tissue structure; the outer fabric is required to be attractive and elegant, and can resist external adverse factors such as antibiosis, ultraviolet resistance and the like, so that the functional garment has both functionality and attractiveness.

The number of loops on the front surface of the single-layer seamless knitted fabric is usually more than that on the back surface, so the front surface has bright color, strong hydrophobicity and small friction force, and the back surface is opposite. Therefore, a new process method needs to be designed, two layers of the double-layer seamless fabric are opposite, the effect that the two surfaces of the outer layer fabric and the human skin layer fabric have different functions is achieved, and meanwhile, the double-layer seamless fabric is formed in a three-dimensional seamless mode, namely the double-layer fabric with different functions inside and outside is woven through a special seamless knitting process, so that the weaving production efficiency and the material utilization rate of the fabric are greatly improved.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a one-step forming double-layer fabric knitting and weaving process with different functions inside and outside and local part reinforced weaving, and realizes the seamless double-layer fabric which is reinforced and woven at the local part and has different tissues and materials on the inner layer surface and the outer layer surface of the seamless double-layer fabric. The inner layer fabric, the outer layer fabric and the lower rib top are connected in a seamless mode, and one layer of fabric is connected with the lower rib top in a seamless mode through the binding threads.

The process comprises the following steps:

and I, a knitting opening is a lower opening of a fabric a, a plurality of rows of yarns are laid on a knitting needle pad, a single-piece half needle extends out of a half disc, a tying line is laid on the half disc and then the half disc is retracted, a grey fabric of the fabric a is knitted, all knitting needles withdraw yarns, and the grey fabric of the fabric a is hung on the half needle.

II, knitting needles start to knit a plurality of rows again, the half needles extend out of the half disc again, and the half disc is retracted after the tying line coils are transferred to a new knitting start.

III, continuously knitting a plurality of rows by using the knitting needle, and repeating the operation in the step I by using the half needle.

And IV, weaving the lower rib top b in the step II, and repeating the step II by using the half needle.

And V, continuously knitting the fabric c by using the knitting needle until finishing, and finishing the knitting of the one-piece cylindrical fabric.

The invention adopts a Santoni SM8-TOP2S seamless circular knitting machine for weaving, in the embodiment, the sports bra comprises an outer fabric, an inner fabric, a lower rib TOP and double shoulder straps, and special organizational structure design is adopted in a plurality of selected areas. In the process step I, the back cup area of the inner layer fabric a is reinforced and knitted, a single-side terry stitch structure of functional yarn is knitted, when the terry stitch is knitted completely, the terry yarn is cut off by a scissor opening of a circular knitting machine, and the process continues to finish the step I.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages:

taking the production of sports bras worn in winter as an example, the seamless knitting process can weave sports bras with different functions of the inner fabric and the outer fabric of the skin, and the sports bras are formed in a three-dimensional mode at one time, and have the advantages of low manufacturing cost, short process flow and the like; the two layers of the double-layer seamless fabric are opposite, the size is matched accurately, and the double-layer seamless fabric has different functions on the outer layer and the skin layer of a human body.

The local part of the back cup area of the inner layer fabric is reinforced and knitted, and a terry stitch structure of functional yarn is knitted, so that a special functional effect can be provided at the breast part; the ground yarn of the inner layer fabric is woven by functional yarns with moisture absorption, sweat releasing, far infrared and the like, directly acts on the skin, and is warm-keeping and comfortable. The surface yarn of the outer fabric is woven by adopting the yarns with ultraviolet resistance, decoration and the like, so that the functionality and the aesthetic property of the sports bra are enhanced, and the expensive yarns are saved, thereby reducing the cost. A terry loop stitch structure formed by stretching a sinker loop by a high-heel sinker is knitted in the back cup area of the inner layer fabric, so that the terry loop stitch structure has the functions of padding and supporting breasts; the terry weave structure is woven by functional yarn, such as far infrared functional yarn tea carbon fiber yarn or coffee carbon fiber yarn or graphene fiber yarn, which is directly contacted with the breast, promotes blood microcirculation of skin epidermis, and has health care effect.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a side flow chart of the knitting process of a one-step forming seamless circular knitting machine with different internal and external functions;

FIG. 2 is a cylindrical gray fabric of a fabric a in the weaving process, (1) is a front and rear view of the weaving process, and (2) is a front and rear view of the fabric a in (1) which is turned up;

FIG. 3 is a cylindrical gray fabric of a fabric a and a rib top b in the weaving process, (1) is a front and rear view of the weaving process, and (2) is a front and rear view obtained by turning up the fabric a in (1);

FIG. 4 is a one-piece cylindrical gray fabric after finishing the weaving of a fabric a, a lower rib top b and a fabric c, (1) is a front and rear view of the weaving process, and (2) is a front and rear view obtained by turning up the fabric a in (1);

FIG. 5 is a diagram of the appearance of a seamless double layer athletic bra with an outer fabric;

FIG. 6 is a pattern diagram of a body ply fabric of a seamless double layer athletic bra.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings and examples, wherein the contents of the examples are not intended to limit the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to the knitting of seamless double-layer sports bras, but may be knitted to form seamless double-layer upper garment or lower garment by one-step knitting with any inner and outer different functions.

TABLE 1 ground yarn nozzle distribution

Yarn threading nozzle	Yarn	Yarn symbol
			1. 5-way	Tying line	A
2. 6-way	Terry stitch functional yarn	B
			3. 7-way road	Functional spandex covered yarn with body layer	C
4. 8-way	To the conventional spandex covered yarn of outer layer	D

TABLE 2 face yarn nozzle distribution

Yarn threading nozzle	Yarn	Yarn symbol
			1. 3, 5, 7 routes	Laminated conventional yarn	E
2. 4, 6 and 8 ways	Functional yarn for outer layer	F

As shown in fig. 1 to 6, the seamless double-layer sports bra according to the present embodiment is woven by a Santoni SM8-TOP2S seamless circular knitting machine, and the ground yarn and the face yarn nozzles are distributed as shown in tables 1 and 2. The tying line A adopts conventional spandex core-spun yarns or bare spandex yarns, such as nylon/spandex core-spun yarns, the nylon fineness range is 20-170 dtex, and the spandex fineness range is 20-90 dtex. The terry stitch functional yarn B is made of far infrared functional yarn, such as tea carbon fiber yarn, coffee carbon fiber yarn or graphene fiber yarn, and is directly contacted with the breast, and the fineness range of the terry stitch functional yarn B is 20-170 dtex. The functional spandex covered yarn C of the skin layer is a core-spun yarn spun by spandex and far infrared yarns such as tea carbon, coffee carbon fiber or graphene fiber, and the like, and is directly contacted with the skin, the fineness range of the far infrared yarns is 20-170 dtex, and the fineness range of the spandex is 20-90 dtex. The conventional spandex covered yarn D on the outer layer is nylon/spandex core-spun yarn or polyester/spandex core-spun yarn and the like, the fineness range of the nylon and the polyester is 20-170 dtex, and the fineness range of the spandex is 20-90 dtex. The conventional yarn E of the skin layer is nylon yarn or polyester yarn and the like, and the fineness range of the nylon and the polyester is 20-170 dtex. Adopting uvioresistant fiber (containing nano TiO) for the outer functional yarn F₂) The blended yarn has ultraviolet-resistant and antibacterial functions with the fineness range of 20-170 dtex when being blended with terylene and the like. The selection of the yarns A-F is not limited to the yarns adopted in the embodiment, and the invention is in the protection scope of the invention when the yarns A-F with special functions are designed for double-layer clothes woven by the seamless knitting process.

The embodiment is a one-step forming seamless double-layer sports bra with different internal and external functions, which is knitted by the process and comprises an outer layer fabric, an inner layer fabric, a lower rib top and double shoulder straps. The two layers of fabrics are seamlessly connected with the lower rib top, wherein the inner layer of fabrics is seamlessly connected with the lower rib top through the tying line of the half needle, and the specific implementation process flow is as follows:

as shown in fig. 1 and 2, the inner layer fabric a woven in fig. 1(1) to (2) has a technical front side a1 and a technical back side a 2. After all knitting needles are laid with yarns, the single-piece half needles extend out of the half disc, the half disc is retracted after opening lines are laid, the knitting needles finish knitting a fabric blank, all knitting needles e withdraw yarns, and the fabric blank a is hung on the half needle d. As shown in fig. 2, 1 indicates a knitting direction, 2 indicates a welt line, 3 indicates an inner layer cup area, 4, 5 indicates an inner layer heart and back area, and 6 indicates a loop structure of an inner layer back cup. When the knitting of the terry stitch structure 6 in the technical reverse side a2 is finished, the terry yarn is cut off by a scissor opening of a circular machine, and then the finished inner layer fabric a is knitted.

As shown in fig. 1 and 3, b1 and b2 in fig. 1(3) are respectively the front and back of the lower rib boss b process. As shown in fig. 1(2) to (3), knitting is performed for 1 to 2 courses, the half needles are extended out of the half plate again, the tying thread loops are transferred to the new knitting opening, and the half needles are retracted into the half plate; the knitting needles continue to knit a plurality of courses, including but not limited to 4-6 courses, the half needles are padded with new tying lines again, the half disc is retracted, and the knitting needles knit the lower rib loops b, as shown in fig. 3.

As shown in fig. 1 and 4, c1 and c2 in fig. 1(4) are respectively the technical front and back of the fabric c. As shown in fig. 1(3) to (5), the huff pin transfers a new puncture wire to the lower cuff b and retracts the huff disc to form a double-layered lower cuff. The sinker is matched with a knitting needle to knit the outer layer fabric c grey fabric, the knitting needle is used for yarn withdrawing, and the one-piece type cylinder bra grey fabric falls off, as shown in figure 4. The bra cup comprises an outer fabric c bra side wing 7, an outer fabric c

bra heart

8 and 9, an outer fabric c bra cup 10 and rib ribs 11 for separating

back parts

12a, 12b and 12c and the side wing 7.

In the weaving process flow chart 1, the weaving opening is the joint of the inner layer fabric and the lower rib top, and the weaving direction is gradually far away from the lower rib top, which is different from the traditional weaving opening which is the upper opening of the inner layer fabric or the outer layer fabric.

In the weaving process flow chart 1, the single-piece half needle arranged above the knitting needle is used at least twice, and the tying line is used for connecting the inner layer fabric and the lower rib opening in combination with the yarn withdrawing operation of the knitting needle, so that the function of tying or tying in the traditional single-piece half needle is not limited.

In the weaving process flow chart 1, when weaving the cylindrical gray fabric, at least two yarn withdrawing operations are used, which is different from one yarn withdrawing operation in the traditional process.

And (4) simply cutting the bra gray fabric, performing flat seaming treatment on the shoulder straps, the neckline and the armhole openings, and shaping to obtain a finished bra product.

As shown in Figs. 5 and 6, the inner fabric has a terry loop stitch construction knitted into the back cup 6 formed by elongated sinker loops of the high heel sinkers to support and cushion the breasts. The terry stitch is woven by tea carbon fiber yarns with far infrared functions and is directly contacted with breasts, so that the blood microcirculation of the epidermis of the skin is promoted, and the hyperplasia of mammary glands is relieved. The body-fitted layer ground yarn adopts coffee carbon/spandex core-spun yarn, is directly contacted with the skin epidermis, has the functions of moisture permeability, sweat discharging, antibiosis, far infrared and the like, and is not only heat-preserving, but also dry and comfortable. The outer layer fabric veil adopts uvioresistant fiber (containing nano TiO)₂) The blended yarn has the functions of antibiosis and ultraviolet resistance and excellent physical and mechanical properties.

The sports bra of the embodiment adopts a special organizational structure design in a plurality of selected areas.

The outer layer fabric comprises cups, hearts, side wings and backs, and the cups 10 adopt a weft plain weave or a tuck plaiting weave; the chicken heart is divided into an upper part and a lower part, wherein the upper part 9 adopts a rib structure (such as a 1+2 rib structure), and the lower part 8 adopts a tuck plaiting structure; the side wings 7 adopt floating plating stitch to form a mesh-shaped appearance, so that moisture permeability and sweat discharge are facilitated; the cups 10, the side wings 7 and the

back parts

12a, 12b and 13c are separated by rib strips 11, the rib strips conform to the ergonomics of young women, have the beauty of female curves and enhance the beauty of the bra, and the

back parts

12a, 12b and 12c adopt a weft plain weave or a tuck plaiting weave.

The inner layer fabric comprises a back cup, a cup area, a heart and a back. The inner layer fabric is seamlessly connected with the lower rib top b through the tying line 2, and the back side cup 6 is knitted into a terry stitch structure to play a role in supporting and lining breasts; the terry yarn is woven by tea carbon fiber yarn with far infrared function, and is directly contacted with the breast, so that the blood microcirculation of the skin epidermis is promoted, and the hyperplasia of mammary glands is relieved; the inner layer cup area 3 adopts tucking plaiting organization to form a tight closed grid, thereby enhancing the shaping function of the breast and preventing the breast from expanding. The core 4 and the back 5 of the skin layer adopt plain weave or tuck plaiting weave with small elasticity.

The shoulder straps adopt flat seaming stitches, and the left armholes and the right armholes and the left shoulder straps respectively adopt the same stitches, so that the generation of large seams is avoided, and the elasticity is realized; the shoulder straps 13a are wrapped by rubber bands to prevent the shoulder straps from sliding off; the width of the shoulder straps 13a, the neckline 13b and the armhole edges 13c is 1cm, so that the bra is light and breathable.

The embodiments of the present invention have been described with reference to the accompanying drawings, but these descriptions should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention, which is defined by the appended claims, and any modifications based on the claims of the present invention are within the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. The knitting process of the one-step weaving forming fabric with different internal and external functions is characterized in that:

the seamless knitted fabric which realizes the reinforced knitting of the inner layer surface and the outer layer surface of the seamless double-layer fabric with different tissues and materials and local parts is realized, wherein the inner layer fabric, the outer layer fabric and the lower rib top are in seamless connection; and knitting the cylindrical gray fabric by using a circular knitting machine, which comprises the following specific steps:

step I, a knitting opening is a lower opening of a fabric a, a plurality of rows of yarns are laid on a knitting needle pad, a single-piece half needle extends out of a half disc, a tying line is laid on the half disc and then the half disc is retracted, a grey fabric of the fabric a is knitted, all knitting needles withdraw yarns, and the grey fabric of the fabric a is hung on the half needle;

step II, knitting a plurality of rows by the knitting needle, extending the half needle out of the half disc again, transferring the tying line coil to a new knitting opening, and then retracting the half disc;

step III, continuously knitting a plurality of rows by using a knitting needle, padding a new tying line on the half needle again, retracting the half disk, and knitting a lower rib top b by using the knitting needle;

step IV, newly weaving a lower rib top b after finishing the weaving step II, transferring a new tying line to the lower rib top b by the half needle, and retracting the half disc to form a double-layer lower rib top;

and step V, continuously knitting the fabric c grey cloth by the sinker in cooperation with the knitting needle until finishing, and finishing the knitting of the one-piece type cylindrical double-layer grey cloth.

2. The process of claim 1, wherein: the fabric a is an inner layer fabric, and the fabric c is an outer layer fabric; fabric a and fabric c may be interchanged.

3. The process of claim 1, wherein: the weaving direction of the cylindrical grey cloth weaving opening is deviated from the lower rib top.

4. The process of claim 1, wherein: during the knitting of a cylindrical gray fabric, a one-piece half needle disposed above a knitting needle is used at least twice, wherein a binding thread seamlessly joins a fabric a with a lower rib b.

5. The process of claim 1, wherein: the inner layer fabric is reinforced and knitted at a local part on the back surface, and a terry stitch structure of functional yarn is knitted in, and the local part provides a set functional effect.

6. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: in the process of knitting the cylindrical grey cloth, at least two yarn-withdrawing operations are used, and the fabric is knitted by a Santoni SM8-TOP2S seamless circular knitting machine.

7. The process of claim 6, wherein: the yarn nozzle distribution of the double-layer fabric 8-way ground yarn adopts different functional yarn designs, and the fabric ground yarn comprises a tying line, a terry stitch functional yarn, a close layer functional spandex covered yarn and an outer layer conventional spandex covered yarn; the fabric surface yarn comprises a skin layer conventional yarn and an outer layer functional yarn.

8. The process of claim 7, wherein: the tying yarn adopts polyamide/spandex core-spun yarn, the functional yarn of the terry stitch adopts tea carbon fiber yarn or coffee carbon fiber or graphene fiber, the functional spandex covered yarn of the skin layer adopts coffee carbon/spandex core-spun yarn or graphene/spandex core-spun yarn, the polyamide/spandex core-spun yarn is adopted for the conventional spandex covered yarn of the outer layer, the polyester yarn is adopted for the conventional yarn of the skin layer, and the functional yarn of the outer layer adopts the yarn containing nano TiO₂The uvioresistant fiber and the terylene blended yarn.