CN111118698A - Method for preparing crinkled crepe fabric - Google Patents
Method for preparing crinkled crepe fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN111118698A CN111118698A CN201911386319.1A CN201911386319A CN111118698A CN 111118698 A CN111118698 A CN 111118698A CN 201911386319 A CN201911386319 A CN 201911386319A CN 111118698 A CN111118698 A CN 111118698A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- preparing
- dull
- semi
- filaments
- yarns
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/22—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/253—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F1/00—General methods for the manufacture of artificial filaments or the like
- D01F1/02—Addition of substances to the spinning solution or to the melt
- D01F1/10—Other agents for modifying properties
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
- D01F6/88—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds
- D01F6/92—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds of polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/70—Material containing nitrile groups
- D06P3/72—Material containing nitrile groups using dispersed dyestuffs
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a method for preparing crinkle fabric, which comprises the steps of preparing warp yarns from polyester silk-like yarns, preparing weft yarns by plying semi-dull DT yarns and hemp yarns, interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave, and dyeing the plain weave to obtain the crinkle fabric; the preparation process of the semi-dull DT wire comprises the following steps: extruding the PET melt from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process; before dyeing, the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT filament is more than or equal to 3.0cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40.0 +/-10.0%, after dyeing, the semi-dull DT filament has a three-dimensional curling form, the curling shrinkage rate is 25-28%, the curling stability is 77-81%, the contraction elongation is 65-68%, and the elastic recovery rate of curling is 74-79%; the crinkling effect of the manufactured crinkled fabric is stable and durable, and the crinkles are not easy to be damaged by environment and using mode.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and relates to a method for preparing a creased fabric.
Background
The creased fabric is a creased fabric formed by twisting warp yarns and weft yarns after dyeing and finishing shrinkage, and has natural expansion effect. As can be seen from the processing technology, in order to obtain a creased style, one of the warp and weft needs to be heavily twisted (the twist of the yarn is 1800 twists/m) to have a high twist, but the high twist may damage the fiber and affect the quality.
In addition, the creased feeling of the twisted yarn is destroyed by gravity when hanging, and the uneven shape and the stretching state of the twisted yarn are changed.
Therefore, it is very important to develop a method for preparing the creased fabric with stable quality and creased feeling without strong twisting.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a method for preparing a creased fabric, and aims to solve the problems that the quality of fibers is damaged and the creased feeling of the fabric is easily damaged due to a strong twisting process when the creased fabric is prepared in the prior art.
A method for preparing crinkle fabric comprises preparing warp yarn from silk (CN 201811615717.1) for silk-like polyester, plying semi-dull DT yarn and hemp yarn to obtain weft yarn, interweaving into plain weave, and dyeing to obtain crinkle fabric;
the preparation process of the semi-dull DT wire comprises the following steps:
extruding the PET melt from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process;
0.20-0.27 wt% of titanium dioxide is dispersed in the PET melt;
the ratio of the widths of the narrowest leaf and the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0: 1.5-2.5, the width of the widest leaf is fixed, the ratio of the widths of the two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the width of the widest leaf is 2.0-3.0: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center;
namely, a plurality of trilobal spinneret orifices are arranged on the spinneret plate, each trilobal spinneret orifice comprises a leaf I, a leaf II and a leaf III, the leaf III in different trilobal spinneret orifices is the widest leaf in the trilobal spinneret orifices, and the widths of the leaves III of all the trilobal spinneret orifices are the same; the width ratio (obtained by dividing a larger value by a smaller value) of the leaves I and the leaves II of all the trilobal spinneret orifices is randomly distributed between 1 and 1.5; in the same trilobal spinneret orifice, the width ratio of the leaf I, the leaf II and the leaf III is 1.0: 1.0-1.4: 1.5-2.5; the lengths of the leaves I, II and III of the same trilobal spinneret orifice are the same, and the lengths of the leaves I, II and III of different trilobal spinneret orifices are the same; in each trilobal spinneret orifice, the ratio of the length to the width of the blade III is 2.0-3.0: 1; in each trilobal spinneret orifice, the included angle between the central lines of the blades I and II is 120 degrees, the included angle between the central lines of the blades II and III is 120 degrees, and the included angle between the central lines of the blades I and III is 120 degrees; the center lines of the blades III of all the trilobal spinneret orifices pass through the circle center, and in the same trilobal spinneret orifice, the distances between the blade III and the circle center are smaller relative to the distances between the blades I and II.
According to the preparation method of the crepon plus material, the intrinsic viscosity of the PET melt is 0.65-0.70 dL/g.
In the above method for preparing the crepon crepe fabric, the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 285-290 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80-2.30 m/s, the winding speed is 2500-3000 m/min, the stretching temperature is 90-95 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.3-3.5, and the setting temperature is 160-180 ℃.
According to the preparation method of the crepon crepe fabric, the content of the semi-dull DT filaments in the weft yarn is 40-50 wt%.
According to the preparation method of the creased fabric, disperse dye is adopted for dyeing, and the process parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1: 20-30, the temperature is 125-130 ℃, and the time is 40-50 min; the semi-dull DT filaments are composed of a plurality of PET monofilaments containing titanium dioxide and having trilobal cross sections.
According to the method for preparing the crinkled crepe fabric, before dyeing, the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT filaments is more than or equal to 3.0cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 40.0 +/-10.0%, and the filament number is 1.00-1.50 dtex.
According to the preparation method of the crepon plus material, after dyeing, the semi-dull DT filaments have a three-dimensional curling shape, the curling shrinkage rate is 25-28%, the curling stability is 77-81%, the shrinkage elongation is 65-68%, and the elastic recovery rate of curling is 74-79%.
According to the preparation method of the crepon-oriented fabric, the gram weight of the crepon-oriented fabric is 120-142 g/m2。
The principle of the invention is as follows:
the semi-dull DT filament is prepared by POY-DT process, wherein PET melt is extruded from trilobal spinneret orifices with unequal width of three leaves on a spinneret plate, the center line of the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the center of a circle and points to the center of the circle, and meanwhile, circular blowing is adopted for cooling; wherein, the cooling air blow is over against the narrow leaf in the trefoil, and the trefoil cooling condition is asymmetric and unbalanced. Because the trilobal in the adopted spinneret orifices is of an asymmetric structure, the narrow leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices firstly face the wind, the surfaces contacting with cooling wind are all the surfaces of the leaves, and the wide leaves only face the wind; therefore, after the fiber is sprayed out, the cooling speed of the melt at different positions on the cross section is inconsistent, and is mainly reflected by that: during spinning, the cooling air speed is 1.80-2.30 m/s, the part close to the air blowing opening is cooled earlier and faster, and the part far away from the air blowing opening is cooled slower. When one of the three-lobed shapes in the trilobal spinneret orifice faces the cooling wind, the melt of the lobe cools quickly, while the other part of the trilobal shape cools slowly, and the lobe facing the wind first is narrow and is cooled more easily. Under the action of the tension of the drafting, the wide leaves in the trilobal shape are easier to be drafted and thinned, and the stress is more concentrated, so that a trilobal stress asymmetric structure can appear on a fiber trefoil cross section, the fiber with asymmetric stress and thickness on the cross section can present three-dimensional crimping performance in the heat treatment or stretching process, the crimping is good, and the elastic recovery rate of the fiber is high; in addition, in the spinneret orifice on the same spinneret, two narrow leaf width ratios are distributed at random between 1 ~ 1.4, can make every fibrous cooling degree also different, consequently, the three-dimensional degree of curling that produces can be different.
The semi-dull DT yarn with the three-dimensional curling performance is used for weaving, after weaving, relaxation heat treatment is carried out on the fabric (the conventional dyeing and finishing process meets the condition), meanwhile, the fiber is heated to shrink and curl, and the fabric can form a certain wrinkling effect from the cloth cover, so that creased fabric is obtained, and the wrinkling does not need untwisting;
because the shrinkage wrinkling is not obtained by untwisting, the yarn does not need to be subjected to heavy twisting, the damage to the yarn is reduced, and the quality of the yarn is further ensured; the wrinkle in the invention is caused by the difference of the heat shrinkage rate difference of the two materials, and the wrinkle does not influence the heat shrinkage rate of the materials under normal washing and using conditions, namely the wrinkle style is durable.
Has the advantages that:
(1) according to the preparation method of the crewel-oriented fabric, the semi-dull DT filaments with the self-curling form are adopted, so that the fabric has the crewel-oriented style, and the crinkling effect is stable and lasting;
(2) the method for preparing the creased fabric effectively solves the problem of fiber damage caused by strong twisting in the preparation of the creased fabric;
(3) according to the preparation method of the creased fabric, the creased formed by the three-dimensional crimp shape of the material is not easily damaged by the environment and the using mode.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the shape of a trilobal spinneret orifice of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the distribution of the orifices of the present invention on a spinneret.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
The shape of the trilobal spinneret orifice and the distribution schematic diagram of the spinneret orifice on the spinneret plate are shown in figures 1 and 2, the spinneret orifice on the spinneret plate is trilobal, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.5-2.5, the widest leaf is fixed in width, the width ratio of the two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the length-width ratio of the widest leaf is 2.0-3.0: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center.
Fig. 1 and 2 are merely schematic and are not intended to limit the present invention.
Example 1
A method for preparing a creased fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing a semi-dull DT wire: extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g) dispersed with 0.27 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process; wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 285 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 20 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80m/s, the winding speed is 2500m/min, the stretching temperature is 90 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.3, and the setting temperature is 160 ℃;
the width ratio of three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:2.0, the width of the widest leaf is 0.12mm, and the width ratio of the two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4 (the number of the spinneret orifices is 30, starting from one spinneret orifice, the ratio is 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.1, 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.1, 1, 1.1, 1.3, 1, 1.2, 1.1, 1.2) in the clockwise direction, the lengths of all three leaves are the same, the length-width ratio of the widest leaf to the width is 2.6:1, and the included angle of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center;
the prepared semi-dull DT filaments consist of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT is 3cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 50%, and the filament number is 1.50 dtex;
(2) preparing warp yarns from silk for the polyester silk-like cloth, simultaneously plying the semi-dull DT silk prepared in the step (1) and hemp yarns to prepare weft yarns, and interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave; wherein, in the weft yarn, the content of the semi-dull DT filaments is 49 wt%;
(3) dyeing to obtain crinkled fabric; wherein, disperse dyes are adopted for dyeing, and the technological parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1:27, the temperature is 127 ℃, and the time is 44 min;
the semi-dull DT filaments in the prepared crepon fabric have a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate is 28%, the crimp stability is 80%, the shrinkage elongation is 67%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 79%; the gram weight of the crepon crepe fabric is 120g/m2。
Example 2
A method for preparing a creased fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing a semi-dull DT wire: extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.67dL/g) dispersed with 0.25 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trefoil spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process; wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 287 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80m/s, the winding speed is 2760m/min, the stretching temperature is 91 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.4, and the shaping temperature is 168 ℃;
the width ratio of three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:1.5, the width of the widest leaf is 0.13mm, and the width ratio of the two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4 (the number of the spinneret orifices is 24, starting from one spinneret orifice, the ratio is 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.3, 1.1, 1.3, 1, 1.1 in sequence along the clockwise direction), the lengths of all the three leaves are the same, the length-width ratio of the widest leaf is 2.4:1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center;
the prepared semi-dull DT filaments consist of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT filament is 3.6cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 44%, and the filament number is 1.34 dtex;
(2) preparing warp yarns from silk for the polyester silk-like cloth, simultaneously plying the semi-dull DT silk prepared in the step (1) and hemp yarns to prepare weft yarns, and interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave; wherein, the content of the semi-dull DT filaments in the weft yarns is 40 wt%;
(3) dyeing to obtain crinkled fabric; wherein, disperse dyes are adopted for dyeing, and the technological parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1:29, the temperature is 129 ℃, and the time is 43 min;
the semi-dull DT filaments in the obtained crinkled crepe fabric have a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate is 26%, the crimp stability is 80%, the shrinkage elongation is 68%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 78%; the gram weight of the crepon crepe fabric is 142g/m2。
Example 3
A method for preparing a creased fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing a semi-dull DT wire: extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.7dL/g) dispersed with 0.27 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process; wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 290 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.30m/s, the winding speed is 3000m/min, the stretching temperature is 95 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.5, and the setting temperature is 180 ℃;
the width ratio of three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.6, the width of the widest leaf is 0.12mm, and the width ratio of the two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4 (the number of the spinneret orifices is 30, starting from one spinneret orifice, the ratio is 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.3, 1.1, 1.3, 1, 1.1) in sequence along the clockwise direction, the lengths of all the three leaves are the same, the length-width ratio of the widest leaf is 2.1:1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center;
the prepared semi-dull DT filaments consist of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT is 3.8cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40%, and the filament number is 1.46 dtex;
(2) preparing warp yarns from silk for the polyester silk-like cloth, simultaneously plying the semi-dull DT silk prepared in the step (1) and hemp yarns to prepare weft yarns, and interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave; wherein, the content of the semi-dull DT filaments in the weft yarns is 40 wt%;
(3) dyeing to obtain crinkled fabric; wherein, disperse dyes are adopted for dyeing, and the technological parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1:23, the temperature is 125 ℃, and the time is 49 min;
the semi-dull DT filaments in the prepared crepon fabric have a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 37%, the crimp stability is 78%, the shrinkage elongation is 68%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 78%; the gram weight of the crepon crepe fabric is 131g/m2。
Example 4
A method for preparing a creased fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing a semi-dull DT wire: extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g) dispersed with 0.2 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trefoil spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process; wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 285 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 21 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.10m/s, the winding speed is 2540m/min, the stretching temperature is 90 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.3, and the shaping temperature is 165 ℃;
the width ratio of three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:2.5, the width of the widest leaf is 0.12mm, and the width ratio of two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4 (the number of the spinneret orifices is 18, starting from one spinneret orifice, the ratio is 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.3, 1.2 and 1.3 in sequence along the clockwise direction), the lengths of all three leaves are the same, the length-width ratio of the widest leaf is 2.6:1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center;
the prepared semi-dull DT filaments consist of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT filament is 3.3cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 48%, and the filament number is 1.20 dtex;
(2) preparing warp yarns from silk for the polyester silk-like cloth, simultaneously plying the semi-dull DT silk prepared in the step (1) and hemp yarns to prepare weft yarns, and interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave; wherein, the content of the semi-dull DT filaments in the weft yarns is 45 wt%;
(3) dyeing to obtain crinkled fabric; wherein, disperse dyes are adopted for dyeing, and the technological parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1:20, the temperature is 125 ℃, and the time is 50 min;
the semi-dull DT filaments in the prepared crepon fabric have a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate is 27%, the crimp stability is 77%, the shrinkage elongation is 65%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 76%; the gram weight of the crepon crepe fabric is 129g/m2。
Example 5
A method for preparing a creased fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing a semi-dull DT wire: extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.67dL/g) dispersed with 0.21 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trefoil spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process; wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 288 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.20m/s, the winding speed is 2770m/min, the stretching temperature is 94 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.5, and the shaping temperature is 169 ℃;
the width ratio of three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.0, the width of the widest leaf is 0.12mm, and the width ratio of the two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4 (the number of the spinneret orifices is 24, starting from one spinneret orifice, the ratio is 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.2, 1.4, 1.3, 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.3 in sequence along the clockwise direction), the lengths of all the three leaves are the same, the length-width ratio of the widest leaf is 2:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center;
the prepared semi-dull DT filaments consist of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT filament is 3.9cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 42%, and the filament number is 1.44 dtex;
(2) preparing warp yarns from silk for the polyester silk-like cloth, simultaneously plying the semi-dull DT silk prepared in the step (1) and hemp yarns to prepare weft yarns, and interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave; wherein, the content of the semi-dull DT filaments in the weft yarns is 46 wt%;
(3) dyeing to obtain crinkled fabric; wherein, disperse dyes are adopted for dyeing, and the technological parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1:30, the temperature is 130 ℃, and the time is 40 min;
the semi-dull DT filaments in the obtained crinkled crepe fabric have a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate is 26%, the crimp stability is 80%, the shrinkage elongation is 68%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 75%; the gram weight of the crepon crepe fabric is 124g/m2。
Example 6
A method for preparing a creased fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing a semi-dull DT wire: extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g) dispersed with 0.21 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process; wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 285 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 22 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.90m/s, the winding speed is 2580m/min, the stretching temperature is 90 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.3, and the shaping temperature is 168 ℃;
the width ratio of three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.5, the width of the widest leaf is 0.13mm, and the width ratio of the two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4 (the number of the spinneret orifices is 42, starting from one spinneret orifice, the ratio is sequentially 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.2, 1.3, 1.1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1, 1.4, 1.3, 1.4, 1.1, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.3, 1.1, 1, 1.2, 1.3, 1, 1.2, 1.3, 1, 1.3, 1, 3, 1.3, 1, 1.3, 1, 3, 1.3; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center;
the prepared semi-dull DT filaments consist of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT filament is 3.2cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 46%, and the filament number is 1.40 dtex;
(2) preparing warp yarns from silk for the polyester silk-like cloth, simultaneously plying the semi-dull DT silk prepared in the step (1) and hemp yarns to prepare weft yarns, and interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave; wherein, the content of the semi-dull DT filaments in the weft yarns is 50 wt%;
(3) dyeing to obtain crinkled fabric; wherein, disperse dyes are adopted for dyeing, and the technological parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1:26, the temperature is 127 ℃, and the time is 47 min;
the semi-dull DT filaments in the prepared crepon fabric have a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 25%, the crimp stability is 81%, the shrinkage elongation is 68%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 74%; the gram weight of the crepon crepe fabric is 120g/m2。
Example 7
A method for preparing a creased fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing a semi-dull DT wire: extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.69dL/g) dispersed with 0.23 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process; wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 289 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80m/s, the winding speed is 2800m/min, the stretching temperature is 95 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.5, and the shaping temperature is 171 ℃;
the width ratio of three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.9, the width of the widest leaf is 0.12mm, and the width ratio of two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4 (the number of the spinneret orifices is 30, starting from one spinneret orifice, the ratio is 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.1, 1.4, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.3, 1.1, 1.3, 1, 1.1) in sequence along the clockwise direction, the length of all three leaves is the same, the width ratio of the width of the widest leaf to the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center;
the prepared semi-dull DT filaments consist of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT filament is 3.9cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 43 percent, and the filament number is 1.00 dtex;
(2) preparing warp yarns from silk for the polyester silk-like cloth, simultaneously plying the semi-dull DT silk prepared in the step (1) and hemp yarns to prepare weft yarns, and interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave; wherein, the content of the semi-dull DT filaments in the weft yarns is 48 wt%;
(3) dyeing to obtain crinkled fabric; wherein, disperse dyes are adopted for dyeing, and the technological parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1:21, the temperature is 126 ℃, and the time is 49 min;
the semi-dull DT filaments in the obtained crepon fabric have a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 26%, the crimp stability is 77%, the shrinkage elongation is 67%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 76%; cis-transThe gram weight of the crepe fabric is 124g/m2。
Example 8
A method for preparing a creased fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing a semi-dull DT wire: extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g) dispersed with 0.21 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process; wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 286 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.30m/s, the winding speed is 2630m/min, the stretching temperature is 90 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.4, and the shaping temperature is 168 ℃;
the width ratio of three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.5, the width of the widest leaf is 0.12mm, and the width ratio of the two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4 (the number of the spinneret orifices is 36, starting from one spinneret orifice, the ratio is sequentially 1.1, 1.3, 1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.4, 1.1, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1, 1.1, 1.3, 1.4, 1.3, 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.3, 1, 1.3, 1.2, 1, 1.3, 1, 1.2, 1, 1.3, 1, 1.3, 1.4, 1, 1.2, 1.3, 1; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center;
the prepared semi-dull DT filaments consist of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT filament is 3.7cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 45%, and the filament number is 1.08 dtex;
(2) preparing warp yarns from silk for the polyester silk-like cloth, simultaneously plying the semi-dull DT silk prepared in the step (1) and hemp yarns to prepare weft yarns, and interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave; wherein, the content of the semi-dull DT filaments in the weft yarns is 41 wt%;
(3) dyeing to obtain crinkled fabric; wherein, disperse dyes are adopted for dyeing, and the technological parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1:26, the temperature is 127 ℃, and the time is 47 min;
the semi-dull DT filaments in the prepared crepon fabric have a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage is 25%, the crimp stability is 78%, the shrinkage elongation is 68%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 74%; the gram weight of the crepon crepe fabric is 130g/m2。
Claims (8)
1. A method for preparing a creased fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: preparing warp yarns from silk for the polyester silk-like cloth, simultaneously preparing weft yarns by plying the semi-dull DT silk and the hemp yarns, interweaving the weft yarns into plain weave, and dyeing the plain weave to prepare crinkled crepe fabric;
the preparation process of the semi-dull DT wire comprises the following steps:
extruding the PET melt from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing semi-dull DT filaments according to a POY-DT process;
0.20-0.27 wt% of titanium dioxide is dispersed in the PET melt;
the ratio of the widths of the narrowest leaf and the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0: 1.5-2.5, the width of the widest leaf is fixed, the ratio of the widths of the two narrow leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.4, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the width of the widest leaf is 2.0-3.0: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the widest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points to the circle center.
2. The method for preparing the crepon plus material according to claim 1, wherein the intrinsic viscosity of the PET melt is 0.65 to 0.70 dL/g.
3. The method for preparing the crepon crepe fabric according to claim 2, wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 285-290 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80-2.30 m/s, the winding speed is 2500-3000 m/min, the stretching temperature is 90-95 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.3-3.5, and the setting temperature is 160-180 ℃.
4. The method for preparing the crepon crepe fabric according to claim 1, wherein the content of the semi-dull DT filaments in the weft is 40-50 wt%.
5. The method for preparing the crepon crepe fabric according to claim 1, wherein disperse dyes are used for dyeing, and the process parameters are as follows: the bath ratio is 1: 20-30, the temperature is 125-130 ℃, and the time is 40-50 min; the semi-dull DT filaments are composed of a plurality of PET monofilaments containing titanium dioxide and having trilobal cross sections.
6. The method for preparing the copped crepe fabric according to claim 5, wherein before dyeing, the breaking strength of the semi-dull DT filaments is more than or equal to 3.0cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40.0 +/-10.0%, and the single filament fineness is 1.00-1.50 dtex.
7. The method for preparing the copped crepe fabric according to claim 5, wherein after dyeing, the semi-dull DT filaments have a three-dimensional crimp shape with a crimp shrinkage of 25-28%, a crimp stability of 77-81%, a shrinkage elongation of 65-68%, and a crimp elastic recovery of 74-79%.
8. The method for preparing the crepon crepe fabric according to claim 1, wherein the gram weight of the crepon crepe fabric is 120-142 g/m2。
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911386319.1A CN111118698B (en) | 2019-12-29 | 2019-12-29 | Method for preparing crinkled crepe fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911386319.1A CN111118698B (en) | 2019-12-29 | 2019-12-29 | Method for preparing crinkled crepe fabric |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN111118698A true CN111118698A (en) | 2020-05-08 |
| CN111118698B CN111118698B (en) | 2021-06-25 |
Family
ID=70504352
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911386319.1A Active CN111118698B (en) | 2019-12-29 | 2019-12-29 | Method for preparing crinkled crepe fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN111118698B (en) |
Citations (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH0742042A (en) * | 1993-07-28 | 1995-02-10 | Teijin Ltd | Woven fabric for padding cloth having improved adhesiveness |
| CN201428012Y (en) * | 2009-07-08 | 2010-03-24 | 江苏华亚化纤有限公司 | Trilobal spinneret plate |
| CN102260921A (en) * | 2010-05-24 | 2011-11-30 | 江苏华亚化纤有限公司 | Three-leaf special-shaped spinneret plate |
| CN102433652A (en) * | 2011-09-30 | 2012-05-02 | 常熟市梅李镇宾理服饰制衣厂 | Silk-like crepon georgette fabric |
| CN202337859U (en) * | 2011-11-24 | 2012-07-18 | 湖州菁诚纺织品有限公司 | Puckered fabric |
| CN202865402U (en) * | 2012-09-04 | 2013-04-10 | 常州纺兴精密机械有限公司 | Trefoil section polyimide fiber |
| CN103603084A (en) * | 2013-10-10 | 2014-02-26 | 桐乡中欣化纤有限公司 | Manufacturing method of multi-reflecting DTY fiber |
| CN106400179A (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2017-02-15 | 浙江盛元化纤有限公司 | Preparation method of lodging-resistant multi-difference polyester low-elastic filament |
-
2019
- 2019-12-29 CN CN201911386319.1A patent/CN111118698B/en active Active
Patent Citations (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH0742042A (en) * | 1993-07-28 | 1995-02-10 | Teijin Ltd | Woven fabric for padding cloth having improved adhesiveness |
| CN201428012Y (en) * | 2009-07-08 | 2010-03-24 | 江苏华亚化纤有限公司 | Trilobal spinneret plate |
| CN102260921A (en) * | 2010-05-24 | 2011-11-30 | 江苏华亚化纤有限公司 | Three-leaf special-shaped spinneret plate |
| CN102433652A (en) * | 2011-09-30 | 2012-05-02 | 常熟市梅李镇宾理服饰制衣厂 | Silk-like crepon georgette fabric |
| CN202337859U (en) * | 2011-11-24 | 2012-07-18 | 湖州菁诚纺织品有限公司 | Puckered fabric |
| CN202865402U (en) * | 2012-09-04 | 2013-04-10 | 常州纺兴精密机械有限公司 | Trefoil section polyimide fiber |
| CN103603084A (en) * | 2013-10-10 | 2014-02-26 | 桐乡中欣化纤有限公司 | Manufacturing method of multi-reflecting DTY fiber |
| CN106400179A (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2017-02-15 | 浙江盛元化纤有限公司 | Preparation method of lodging-resistant multi-difference polyester low-elastic filament |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
| Title |
|---|
| 邬国铭 等: "《高分子材料加工工艺学》", 31 July 2000, 中国纺织出版社 * |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN111118698B (en) | 2021-06-25 |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| CN111041658B (en) | Preparation method of chiffon fabric | |
| CN114144549B (en) | Core-sheath type composite false-twist yarn and preparation method thereof | |
| CN116516534B (en) | Manufacturing process of high-shrinkage curled hollow DTY wool-like spun fiber | |
| JP3119066B2 (en) | Mixed fiber composite yarn, method for producing the same, and knitted fabric | |
| CN111118698B (en) | Method for preparing crinkled crepe fabric | |
| CN111118702B (en) | Preparation method of polyester crepe de-chine woven fabric | |
| CN111101266B (en) | Preparation method of wrinkled fabric | |
| JP4284758B2 (en) | Method for producing polyester composite yarn | |
| KR102036668B1 (en) | Polyester yarn of a cotten-like texture and manufacturing method thereof | |
| CN111118626B (en) | Preparation method of coral fleece fabric | |
| CN111088578B (en) | Preparation method of elastic chiffon fabric | |
| JP2000248425A (en) | Highly shrinkable polyester fiber and its production | |
| KR101136694B1 (en) | Process Of Producing Side by side type polyester conjugated yarn with excellent crimp property | |
| JP2639284B2 (en) | Mixed fiber composite yarn, its production method and woven fabric | |
| CN111041732B (en) | Preparation method of household carpet | |
| CN111101281B (en) | Preparation method of Raschel blanket | |
| JPH10280231A (en) | Production of low shrinkage ultrafine polyester fiber | |
| JP2988984B2 (en) | Polyester thick and thin composite yarn and method for producing the same | |
| CN111118916A (en) | Preparation method of carpet for vehicle | |
| JP5606894B2 (en) | Method for producing cellulose ester composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric | |
| JPH11241220A (en) | Production of polyester ultrafine fiber having low shrink property | |
| KR20230009069A (en) | Core-sheath type composite false-twist yarn and manufacturing method thereof | |
| JP2002161443A (en) | Crimped yarn | |
| JPH11315437A (en) | Polyester textured yarn having characteristic cross-section, and woven or knitted fabric | |
| CN111041579A (en) | Carpet yarn and preparation method thereof |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| GR01 | Patent grant | ||
| GR01 | Patent grant |