CN110573130B

CN110573130B - Skin care compositions

Info

Publication number: CN110573130B
Application number: CN201680091483.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 于鲲
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2016-12-09
Filing date: 2016-12-09
Publication date: 2022-06-17
Anticipated expiration: 2036-12-09
Also published as: CN110573130A; WO2018103066A1

Abstract

A composition comprising, in an aqueous phase: a) is selected from treesAt least one polysaccharide of a gum; b) at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid; c) greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer; and d) at least one C₂‑C₆A polyol.

Description

Skin care compositions

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition for caring for the skin.

More specifically, the invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, having a low content of preservatives, in particular no preservatives, and having good stability and cosmetic properties.

More particularly, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for the skin substantially free of preservatives, in particular free of parabens.

Background

It has long been the ultimate goal of cosmetic formulations to provide consumers with highly effective products with cosmetic properties such as moisturizing, whitening, and the like.

Among all the compositions for caring for the skin, facial masks are known to have a high efficacy on the skin. Thus, a market growth of mask cosmetic products is seen.

In general, facial masks fall into three broad categories: wet paper towel mask, which is the leading and most developed class; leave-on masks without wet wipes, such as sleep masks for nighttime use; water-washable masks without wet wipes, such as mud masks for cleansing the skin.

Due to the occlusive dressing properties of these types of products, various types of conventional mask products, with or without wet wipes, provide good sensations to the skin, including moisturization, and refreshment.

Despite the above properties, these products have disadvantages. Consumers experience an unpleasant, sensitive sensation after applying the mask. Mask products are typically applied to the skin for a relatively long period of time. The composition may cause a sensitive sensation due to relatively long-term application.

Efforts have been made to formulate skin care mask compositions having a mild skin feel after application. Specifically, the amount of preservative is reduced to obtain a mild cosmetic mask product.

For this purpose, sterilization procedures were carried out during the preparation of such compositions. Conventionally available sterilization methods such as heat sterilization may be mentioned.

However, the inventors have found that not all compositions can be readily sterilized. It is noteworthy that some compositions cannot be truly sterilized because the viscosity of these compositions decreases upon sterilization, particularly upon steam sterilization, i.e., the dynamic viscosity of the composition is affected by sterilization.

Therefore, there is a need to develop compositions, in particular cosmetic or dermatological compositions, which can be subjected to sterilization, in particular steam sterilization.

Furthermore, the following compositions need to be developed: provides a gentle feel to the skin after application and at the same time can be subjected to a sterilization treatment without unacceptable changes in viscosity.

Furthermore, it is desirable that such compositions have good cosmetic properties, such as moisturizing, moisturizing or refreshing feel after application.

Disclosure of Invention

Objects of the invention

It is an object of the present invention to provide a solution to the above-mentioned problems.

More specifically, the present invention aims to solve the following technical problems: a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, is provided which has a mild sensation after application, in particular after application as a mask composition, i.e. after a prolonged application on the skin, for example after 5 to 15 minutes.

One object of the present invention is to solve the following technical problems: a composition, particularly a cosmetic or dermatological composition, is provided having a low level of preservatives. In particular, the composition is substantially free of preservatives, and more particularly free of parabens.

A preferred object of the present invention is to solve the following technical problems: a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, is provided which has a mild feel after application and at the same time a low content of preservatives, or preferably no preservatives, in particular no parabens.

One object of the present invention is to solve the following technical problems: provided are compositions, particularly cosmetic or dermatological compositions, which form a mask on keratin materials, particularly the skin, and provide a mild feel after application and have a low or substantially no preservative, which are stable during sterilization.

Furthermore, the compositions as mentioned above provide good cosmetic properties to keratin materials, in particular the skin, in particular good hydrating and moisturizing properties.

Another object of the present invention is to solve the following technical problems: a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, is provided that exhibits an optimal concentration for optimal stability, cosmetic or dermatological benefit and is stable during sterilization.

The applicant has now found that the above technical problem can be solved by providing a composition comprising, in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one polysaccharide selected from gums;

b) at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid;

C) greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer; and

d) at least one C₂-C₆A polyol.

The invention therefore relates to such compositions.

In particular, it has been found that no neutralized polyacrylic acid is included and

the prior art compositions of combinations of polymers are not suitable for sterilization processes.

Typically, the dynamic viscosity of prior art compositions drops upon sterilization, wherein pressure and/or heat is applied. This reduction in dynamic viscosity is undesirable as it becomes too low for the intended use. Typically, sterilization of commercially available mask compositions results in a reduction in viscosity after sterilization: the composition becomes more liquid.

It was found that the above technical problems are overcome by the composition according to the invention comprising a gum, a neutralized polyacrylic acid and a polymer, and C₂-C₆A polyol, the polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application to the surface of the said keratin material of at least one composition according to the invention, in which the said keratin material is preferably the skin, in particular the face.

For the purposes of the present invention, the viscosity of the composition was measured. The viscosity of the composition of the invention can be measured by any method known to the person skilled in the art and in particular according to the following conventional methods. The measurement can be carried out at 25 ℃ using a Rheomat180 viscometer equipped with a rotor rotating at 200 rpm. The skilled person can select a rotor for measuring the viscosity from the rotors M1, M2, M3 and M4 on the basis of their general knowledge, in order to be able to perform the measurement.

By "stable upon sterilization" is meant that the compositions of the present invention are subjected to sterilization without an undesirably large reduction in viscosity. In particular, such a reduction is unacceptable when it is greater than 35%.

By "keratin material" is meant human keratin material, more particularly the skin.

Detailed Description

Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.

In the following, in particular in the expressions "between … … and … …" and "in the range … … to … …", the limits of the numerical ranges are also included, unless stated otherwise.

Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Detailed description of the preferred embodiments

Gum (sweet gum)

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one gum.

According to one embodiment, gums suitable for the present invention are xanthan gum and its non-ionic derivatives, gellan gum and its non-ionic derivatives, guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, locust bean gum, agar gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.

Examples that may be mentioned include the name by CP Kelco

Xanthan Gum sold by CG-T, under the name CP Kelco

Gellan gum sold by CG LA under the name Jaguar HP by Rhodia

Guar gum sold; mannan gum sold by GfN

(1% glucomannan).

Preferably, the preferred gum in the present invention is xanthan gum. Xanthan gum is an anionic polysaccharide consisting of a β - (1 → 4) -D-glucopyranose glucan backbone having (1 → 3) - α -D-mannopyranose- (2 → 1) - β -D-glucuronic acid- (4 → 1) - β -D-mannopyranose side chains on alternating residues. Xanthan Gum CAS number 11138-66-2.

According to a preferred embodiment, the gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Neutralized polyacrylic acid

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid.

Neutralized polyacrylic acids suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, polyacrylates. Neutralized polyacrylic acid is an anionic polyelectrolyte with negatively charged carboxylic acid groups in the backbone.

Examples of neutralized polyacrylic acids include polyacrylic acid salts neutralized with sodium, potassium, lithium, and ammonium.

The most preferred neutralized polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.

In a preferred embodiment, the polyacrylate is sodium polyacrylate with CAS number 9003-04-7. Sodium polyacrylate is sold, for example, by Sigma-Aldrich or as COSMEDIA SP sold by BASF.

The amount of neutralized polyacrylic acid may for example be in the range of 0.01 to 3 wt%, preferably 0.05 to 1 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polymer and method of making same

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one monomer that is acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid

(or

A polymer).

In particular, according to the invention

The polymer is at least comprising acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid

A crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer of monomers in a form partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base other than aqueous ammonia (e.g. sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide).

The polymer is preferably completely neutralized or almost completely neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

These according to the invention

The polymer may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agent may be chosen from the polyolefin unsaturated compounds usually used for crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Examples of crosslinking agents which may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyethylene glycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate or tetraethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth) acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and/or allyl esters of vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

In one embodiment according to the present invention, the cross-linking agent is selected from the group consisting of methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate, and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking is generally in the range from 0.01 to 10 mol%, more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol%, relative to the polymer.

According to the invention

The polymer is water soluble or water dispersible. In this case, it is preferable that the air conditioner,

the polymer is:

"homopolymers" comprising only

A monomer, and if the homopolymer is crosslinked, the homopolymer comprises one or more crosslinking agents, such as those defined above;

or copolymers of

Monomers and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, and if the copolymer is crosslinked, the homopolymer comprises one or more crosslinking agents, such as those defined above. When the copolymer comprises hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers do not comprise fatty chains and are preferably present in small amounts.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.

The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" refers to polymers that: when introduced into the aqueous phase at 25 ℃ in a concentration by mass equal to 1%, makes it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution having a maximum light transmission value of at least 60%, and preferably at least 70%, through a 1cm thick sample at a wavelength equal to 500 nm.

The "homopolymer" according to the invention is preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and it can be obtained according to a preparation process comprising the following steps:

(a) free form of monomer (such as

) Dispersing or dissolving in tert-butanol solution or water and tert-butanol solution;

(b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is treated with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH, in an amount such as to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer of from 90% to 100%₃To neutralize;

(c) adding a crosslinking monomer to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b);

(d) performing a standard free radical polymerization in the presence of a free radical initiator at a temperature in the range of from 10 ℃ to 150 ℃; the polymer precipitates out in a solution or dispersion based on tert-butanol.

According to the invention

The homopolymer is preferably an optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, for example under the name Hostacerin from Clariant

(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid).

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention preferably contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble comonomer may be ionic or non-ionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, mention may be made of the following compounds and their salts:

a (meth) acrylic acid (a) acrylic acid,

-a styrene sulfonic acid,

-vinylsulfonic acid and (meth) allylsulfonic acid,

-a vinyl phosphonic acid,

-a maleic acid, the maleic acid being,

-a source of itaconic acid,

-a crotonic acid, which is,

-a water-soluble vinyl monomer of formula (a) below:

wherein:

-R₁is selected from H, -CH₃、-C₂H₅and-C₃H₇

-X₁Selected from:

--OR₂alkyl ethers of the type in which R₂For using at least one sulfonic acid group (-SO)₃-) and/or sulfate (-SO)₄-) and/or a phosphate group (-PO)₄H₂-) a substituted straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, examples which may be mentioned include:

(meth) acrylamide (a) and (meth) acrylamide,

-N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

-N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

-a maleic anhydride,

-a vinyl amine, the vinyl amine being a vinyl amine,

n-vinyllactams containing a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyramide and N-vinylcaprolactam,

-formula CH₂(ii) vinyl alcohol of CHOH,

-a water-soluble vinyl monomer of formula (B) below:

wherein:

-R₁₅selected from H, -CH₃、-C₂H₅and-C₃H₇

-X₂Selected from:

--OR₁₆type alkyl ether wherein R₁₆Is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms optionally substituted with halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atoms; hydroxyl (-OH); and (3) ether.

Mention may be made, for example, of glycidyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and also (meth) acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyethylene glycol.

Among the hydrophobic comonomers not containing fatty chains, examples which may be mentioned include:

styrene and its derivatives, such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene,

-formula CH₂＝CH-OCOCH₃Vinyl acetate of (a);

-formula CH₂Vinyl ethers of ═ CHOR, where R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

-acrylonitrile,

-a source of caprolactone,

-vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride,

silicone derivatives which, after polymerization, give silicone polymers, such as methacryloxypropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and silicone methacrylamide,

-a hydrophobic vinyl monomer of formula (C) below:

wherein:

-R₂₃selected from H, -CH₃、-C₂H₅and-C₃H₇

-X₃Selected from:

--OR₂₄type alkyl ether wherein R₂₄Is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

Water-soluble or Water-dispersible polymers of the invention

The polymer preferably has a molar mass in the range of 50000 to 10000000g/mol, preferably 80000 to 800000g/mol, and even more preferably 100000 to 7000000 g/mol.

Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers which may be mentioned according to the invention include crosslinked or uncrosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, for example the commercial product Simulgel^TM800 (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate).

Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention which may be mentioned include:

acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C)₁₃-C₁₄Isoparaffin/laureth-7) or by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Simulgel^TM600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80).

Copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer), but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, for example AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymers, such as those available under the name Simulgel from SEPPIC^TMCopolymers used in commercial products sold by EG (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80);

copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, for example AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as those known under the name Simulgel by the company SEPPIC^TMCopolymer used in commercial products sold by NS (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60).

Preferred polymers are more particularly sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymers such as are used in the commercial product Sepigel^TM800, the homopolymer used; and

hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers such as those used in the commercial products sold under the name Simulgel NS.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention,

the polymer or copolymer will be used in powder form.

The polymers derived from AMPS may also be polymers comprising:

-80 to 99 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid of formula (3) below

A unit:

wherein X⁺Is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation, or an ammonium ion; and

-from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 1 to 15 mol%, of units of formula (4) below:

wherein n and p are independently of each otherRepresent moles and range from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20, with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and better still less than 20; r₁Represents a hydrogen atom or a straight or branched C₁-C₆Alkyl (preferably methyl), and R₃Represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing m carbon atoms, wherein m is in the range of 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 25.

The polymers according to the invention can be obtained according to standard free-radical polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators, such as Azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2' -azobis [ 2-amidinopropane ]]Hydrochloride (ABAH ═ 2, 2' -azobis- [ 2-amidinopropane)]Hydrochloride), organic peroxides (such as dilauroyl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, t-butyl hydroperoxide, etc.), mineral peroxide compounds (such as potassium or ammonium persulfate, or alternatively H in the presence of a reducing agent₂O₂)。

The polymer is obtained by radical polymerization, in particular in a tert-butanol medium which precipitates the polymer. With polymerization in tert-butanol, a polymer particle size distribution which is particularly advantageous for the use of the polymer can be obtained.

The polymerization can be carried out at a temperature of from 0 ℃ to 150 ℃, preferably between 20 ℃ and 100 ℃, under atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. The polymerization reaction can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.

It is thus possible to use a mixture of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid

Or an ester of a sodium salt or an ammonium salt thereof with (meth) acrylic acid and a polymer prepared from:

c vinylated with 8mol of ethylene oxide₁₀-C₁₈Alcohol (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C vinylated with 8mol of ethylene oxide₁₁Oxo alcohols (Genapol from Clariant Co.)

)，

C vinylated with 7mol of ethylene oxide₁₁Oxo alcohols (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C vinylated with 7mol of ethylene oxide₁₂-C₁₄Alcohol (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C oxyethylenated with 9mol of ethylene oxide₁₂-C₁₄Alcohol (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C oxyethylenated with 11mol of ethylene oxide₁₂-C₁₄Alcohol (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C vinylated with 8mol of ethylene oxide₁₆-C₁₈Alcohol (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C oxyethylenated with 11mol of ethylene oxide₁₆-C₁₈Alcohol (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C vinylated with 15mol of ethylene oxide₁₆-C₁₈Alcohol (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C oxyethylenated with 20mol of ethylene oxide₁₆-C₁₈Alcohol (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C vinylated with 25mol of ethylene oxide₁₆-C₁₈Alcohol (Genapol from Clariant Corp.)

)，

C vinylated with 25mol of ethylene oxide₁₈-C₂₂The alcohol is added into the mixture of the alcohol,

c vinylated with 25mol of ethylene oxide₁₆-C₁₈An iso-alcohol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polymer is

And C comprising 6 to 25mol of oxyethylene groups₁₆-C₁₈Copolymers of alcohol methacrylates, C₁₆-C₁₈Alcohol methacrylates from methacrylic acid or methacrylate and C vinylated with 6 to 25mol of ethylene oxide₁₆-C₁₈The alcohol is obtained.

The polymer may also be

And C comprising 6 to 25mol of oxyethylene groups₁₂-C₁₄Copolymers of alcohol methacrylic esters, C₁₂-C₁₄Alcohol methacrylates from methacrylic acid or methacrylate and C vinylated with 6 to 25mol of ethylene oxide₁₂-C₁₄The alcohol is obtained.

As preferred according to the invention

Polymers of the type which may be mentioned:

-by 9265 mol% of

And 7.35 mol% of C containing 8 oxyethylene groups₁₆-C₁₈Non-crosslinked copolymer (Genapol) obtained from alcohol methacrylate

)，

From 91.5 mol% of

And 8.5 mol% of C containing 7 oxyethylene groups₁₂-C₁₄Non-crosslinked copolymer (Genapol) obtained from alcohol methacrylate

)，

From 96.45 mol% of

And 3.55 mol% of C containing 25 oxyethylene groups₁₆-C₁₈Cross-linked copolymer (Genapol) obtained from alcohol methacrylate

) The cross-linking agent is trimethylolpropane triacrylate,

-by

And C comprising 25 oxyethylene groups₂₂Crosslinked copolymers obtained from alcohol methacrylates, the polymers being obtained under the name Aristoflex by the company Clariant

The product is sold and sold,

-acrylamide/2-methyl-2- [ (1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino]-1-Propanesulfonic acid sodium salt

Copolymers, such as Simulgel sold by SEPPIC corporation in the form of an emulsion containing polysorbate 80 as surfactant and isohexadecane as fatty phase

Or alternatively, Simulgel sold by SEPPIC corporation

Simulgel

And Simulgel

Simulgel

In particular in document FR 2785801. It is more particularly a reverse latex.

The polyelectrolytes are 2-methyl-2- [ (1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino groups, partially or completely salified, in particular in the form of sodium or ammonium salts]-1-propanesulfonic acid, a salt thereof,

polyelectrolyte in the presence of

And acrylamide in a proportion of 30 to 50 mol%, and acrylamide itself in a proportion of 50 to 70%.

For the purposes of the present invention, derived from

Preferred polymers of (A) are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, for example under the name Hostacerin from Clariant

According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of polymer c) may range, for example, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention exhibits good properties in terms of mildness and viscosity after sterilization treatment when the weight ratio of the above-mentioned components is adjusted. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of gum to the total amount of neutralized polyacrylic acid and polymer comprising at least one monomer which is acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is preferably between 2 and 0.1, preferably between 1.5 and 0.2, more preferably between 1 and 0.4.

₂ ₆C-C polyol

The composition of the invention comprises at least one C₂-C₆A polyol.

According to one embodiment, C₂-C₆The polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, glycols, or mixtures thereof.

C₂-C₆Polyol means a polyol containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.

Advantageously, C₂-C₆The diols may be linear or branched.

At C₂-C₆Among the diols, mention may be made of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, or mixtures thereof.

Glycerol, also known as glycerol, is propane-1, 2, 3-triol and has the CAS number 56-81-5.

Diols are vicinal diols with two hydroxyl groups occupying vicinal positions. C₂-C₆Examples of diols include 1, 2-ethanediol or ethylene glycol (CAS number 107-21-1) or propane-1, 2 diol or alpha-propanediol (CAS number 57-55-6), or 1,2-butanediol (especially CAS number 584-03-2) or 2, 3-butanediol (especially CAS number 513-85-9), and any enantiomer thereof.

Preferably, C₂-C₆The polyol is selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, or mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, C is relative to the total weight of the composition₂-C₆The amount of the polyol is in the range of 0.001 to 30 wt%, preferably 0.01 to 20 wt%, more preferably 5 to 20 wt%.

Preservative

Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises less than 0.3 wt% of total preservative compound when present, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the composition is substantially free of preservative compounds.

By "substantially free of preservative compounds" it is meant that the composition does not contain common preservative compounds such as parabens, or the composition contains ingredients that can be used as preservatives, but in much lower amounts than the effective amounts known in the art.

In particular, the composition comprises at most 0.2 wt%, preferably at most 0.1 wt% of a preservative, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free of preservative compounds selected from the group consisting of: parabens, in particular alkyl parabens, such as propyl paraben (propyl paraben), methyl paraben (methyl paraben), butyl paraben (butyl paraben) and phenoxyethanol.

In one embodiment, the composition is free of parabens.

By "free of parabens" is meant that the amount of parabens is below the limits imposed by law or regulation, e.g., on the package, no parabens are present.

In one embodiment, the composition may additionally comprise one or more other topically acceptable ingredients.

Active ingredient

In one embodiment, the composition may comprise at least one skin care agent and/or at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

The cosmetic active ingredient may for example be selected from the group consisting of: oils, humectants, surfactants, structurants, sunscreens, film formers, acidifying and/or alkalizing agents, buffers, chelating agents, coloring additives, dermatologically active agents, whitening active ingredients, other skin care agents, cosmetic active ingredients, and any combination thereof.

For example, the skin care agent and/or cosmetic active is selected from the group consisting of: whitening agents, antioxidants, cleansing agents, free radical scavengers, moisturizers, skin toning agents, anti-acne agents, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatory agents, skin texture treatment agents, antiperspirants, aesthetic agents (aesthtics), antibacterial agents, nutritional agents, sebum and/or moisture absorbents, and any combination thereof.

In one embodiment, the amount of active ingredient ranges from 0.0001 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.001 wt% to 10 wt%, and more preferably from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For example, the amount of active ingredient ranges from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature between 20 ℃ and 25 ℃), for example other than C as claimed in the present invention₂-C₆Polyols other than polyols; glycol ethers (especially containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as monopropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers or tripropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl radicalAlkyl ether, monoethylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ether, diethylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ether, triethylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the aqueous phase may for example be in the range of 0.1 to 99.9 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 99 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the amount of water in the composition according to the invention ranges from 20 to 95 wt%, preferably from 30 to 90 wt%, more preferably from 50 to 85 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additive/auxiliary material

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one additive. The type and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention can be adjusted by the person skilled in the art by routine procedures so that the cosmetic and stability properties required of these compositions are not affected by the additives. The additives may be selected from thickeners, colorants, preservatives and the like.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise the usual cosmetic additives soluble in the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention, chosen in particular from organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, emollients, moisturizers, additional opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoaming agents, fragrances, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field.

In one embodiment, the aqueous phase may also contain additives such as water-soluble active ingredients, salts, gelling agents, fillers, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, water-soluble dyes, and any mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an aqueous solution.

Formulation of

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, in the form of an aqueous composition.

The invention relates in particular to a mask, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological mask, substantially free of preservatives, in particular free of parabens.

According to one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising a composition as described in the present invention, and at least one substrate.

The substrate is generally known as a wet wipe mask for skin care. There is no limitation on the type of substrate that can be used in the compositions of the present invention.

Thus, according to one embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a mask, for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in an aqueous phase, xanthan gum, sodium polyacrylate, a polymer in an amount greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one C₂-C₆A polyol, the polymer comprising at least one monomer, the at least one monomer being 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

Viscosity of the oil

Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of 100 to 500 mPa-s, more preferably 200 to 400 mPa-s, before the sterilization treatment.

Preferably, the composition of the invention has a viscosity of from 120 to 500 mPa-s, preferably from 200 to 400 mPa-s, after the sterilization treatment.

The viscosity of the composition of the present invention can be measured by the method described above.

More specifically, the viscosity of the compositions according to the invention was measured at 25 ℃ using a Prorheo R180 viscometer from Prorheo corporation equipped with a spindle M2 rotating at 200 rpm.

When the above measurement is carried out, the unit UD is used to express the viscosity. The following equation is then applied to obtain the viscosity in mPa · s (millipascal per second) units:

viscosity (mPa · S) ═ 10.6 × UD (this equation applies only to M2 rotors)

Stability during sterilization

The compositions of the present invention are stable upon sterilization.

For the purposes of the present invention, the compositions are subjected to a sterilization treatment without an unacceptable reduction in viscosity occurring.

In particular, this reduction is less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 30%, more particularly less than or equal to 20%.

% viscosity reduction (viscosity before sterilization-viscosity after sterilization)/viscosity before sterilization × 100%

Process for preparing a composition

A particular advantage of the composition of the present invention is that the composition can be sterilized without negatively affecting the stability of the composition.

"stability" in this context means in particular in the present context the stability of the dynamic viscosity of the composition upon sterilization.

Sterilization refers specifically to any treatment that eliminates, removes, kills, or inactivates microorganisms and pathogens (including viruses) in a composition.

In one embodiment, the sterilization is selected from the group consisting of: heat sterilization, chemical sterilization, radiation sterilization, autoclaving, and filter sterilization.

The heat sterilization includes, in particular, steam sterilization, dry heat sterilization, flame sterilization, incineration sterilization, batch sterilization, sterilization with glass beads.

Chemical sterilization includes sterilization with ethylene oxide, nitrogen dioxide, ozone, glutaraldehyde and formaldehyde, hydrogen peroxide, peracetic acid, among others.

Radiation sterilization includes, inter alia, non-ionizing radiation sterilization and ionizing radiation sterilization.

In one embodiment, the heat sterilization is steam sterilization. A widely used method for heat sterilization is an autoclave commonly referred to as a steam sterilizer. The composition to be sterilized is generally placed in an autoclave which is heated to a temperature of 121-34 ℃ under pressure in the presence of steam (water vapor). Generally, steam sterilization requires heat treatment above 121 ℃ for several minutes, typically at least 15 minutes.

The invention relates to a composition obtainable according to such a sterilization process.

In contrast to the compositions of the present invention, the compositions of the prior art do not withstand heat sterilization, in particular heat sterilization carried out in an autoclave. When heat sterilization is carried out in an autoclave, the prior art compositions become very liquid (dynamic viscosity decreases significantly).

Method and use

The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means that enables uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or cotton ball, a stick, a brush, a gauze, a spatula, or by spraying, and can be removed by rinsing with water or using a mild detergent.

In a particular embodiment, the composition forms a mask after application to the skin, when applied topically, particularly to human skin.

Typically, the mask forms a film or sheet.

In one embodiment, the composition forms a skin mask.

In one embodiment, the composition forms a facial mask.

In one embodiment, the composition is formed into a film or sheet.

In one embodiment, the composition forms a leave-on mask.

In a particular embodiment, the composition is used to prepare a solid applicator body.

The compositions of the present invention may be practiced to enhance the overall condition of the epidermis, particularly the skin.

The composition of the invention can be used in cosmetic methods, for example in cosmetic steps or cosmetic methods for making up/caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face and the lips, by being applied to the skin, in particular the face.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for making up/caring for the skin, in particular the face.

Advantageously, the compositions of the present invention are skin masks that provide skin benefits.

In skin benefits, in one embodiment, the composition limits skin sensitivity.

Among skin benefits, in one embodiment, the composition has a better skin finish in terms of reflectivity, softness, plumpness. The compositions of the present invention have a better consumer perception than the compositions of the prior art.

The compositions of the present invention are stable over time.

"stable over time" is understood to mean that the compositions according to the invention do not show any macroscopic change in colour, odour or viscosity, any change in pH or any change in microscopic morphology after storage for 2 months at all temperatures between 4 ℃ and 45 ℃.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions and methods according to the invention, but not to limit the scope of the invention in any way.

Examples

Example 1 inventive and comparative formulations

Comparative formulations B to D do not contain one of the components a) to c), respectively.

The inventive and comparative formulations were prepared by the following steps:

heating phase A to 80 deg.C until completely dissolved;

mix phase B into phase a at 80 ℃ and homogenize until homogeneous;

adding phase C to the mixture obtained above and allowing the mixture to cool to 40 ℃;

phase D was added to the mixture obtained above and mixed until dissolved.

EXAMPLE 2 Sterilization of the compositions

In this example, the viscosity change of the inventive and comparative formulations after heat sterilization in an autoclave was measured.

The above results demonstrate that the formulations of the present invention have the desired viscosity before and after sterilization and are stable upon sterilization treatment. On the other hand, the comparative formulation is unacceptable in view of its viscosity and/or stability upon sterilization.

Example 3 consumer testing

The inventive and comparative formulations (after sterilization) were then applied to the facial skin of 5 consumers as leave-on mask products having a commonly available wet tissue substrate (28 g per wet tissue substrate) sold by FJNF co. Consumers evaluated skin feel and cosmetic properties after application.

It can be observed that comparative formulations B, C and D could not be used as mask compositions. These formulations drip from wet wipes and are not easily applied to the skin. Viscosity changes negatively impact the cosmetic properties of the formulation as well as skin feel.

On the other hand, the consumer found that the present formula a provides very good mild feel to the skin after application as a leave-on wet wipe mask, and the consumer felt a very moisturized and moisturized feel.

Claims

1. A skin care composition comprising in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one polysaccharide selected from gums;

b) at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid;

c) greater than or equal to 0.1 wt% of a polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition; and

d) at least one C₂-C₆A polyol.

2. The skin care composition of claim 1, wherein C is₂-C₆The polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, glycols, or mixtures thereof.

3. Skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein C is the total weight of the skin care composition₂-C₆The polyol is present in an amount in the range of 0.001 wt% to 30 wt%.

4. Skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein C is the total weight of the skin care composition₂-C₆The polyol is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 wt% to 20 wt%.

5. Skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein C is the total weight of the skin care composition₂-C₆The polyol is present in an amount in the range of 5 wt% to 20 wt%.

6. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the skin care composition comprises less than 0.3 wt% of total preservative compounds relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.

7. The skin care composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the skin care composition is substantially free of preservative compounds selected from the group consisting of parabens.

8. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the gum is selected from the group consisting of: xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives, gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, gum ghatti, gum acacia, locust bean gum, agar gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.

9. A skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the gum is xanthan gum.

10. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 3 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.

11. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.

12. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 0.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.

13. The skin care composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the neutralized polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.

14. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the neutralized polyacrylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt% to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.

15. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the neutralized polyacrylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt% to 1 wt% relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.

16. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the neutralized polyacrylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 0.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.

17. A skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein said polymer comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is selected from the group consisting of polymers comprising at least acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid

A crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer of monomers in a partially or fully neutralized form with a mineral base other than aqueous ammonia.

18. A skin care composition according to claim 17 wherein the crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer is in partially or fully neutralized form with a mineral base selected from sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

19. A skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the polymer is selected from homopolymers of optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

20. A skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the polymer is poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid).

21. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polymer c) is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.

22. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polymer c) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the skin care composition.

23. A skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the weight ratio of the gum a) to the total amount of the neutralized polyacrylic acid b) and the polymer c) comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer is between 2 and 0.1.

24. A skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the weight ratio of the gum a) to the total amount of the neutralized polyacrylic acid b) and the polymer c) comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer is between 1.5 and 0.2.

25. A skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the weight ratio of the gum a) to the total amount of the neutralized polyacrylic acid b) and the polymer c) comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer is between 1 and 0.4.

26. The skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the skin care composition exhibits a viscosity ranging from 100 to 500 mPa-s before sterilization and a viscosity ranging from 120 to 500 mPa-s after sterilization.

27. The skin care composition of claim 26, wherein the skin care composition exhibits a viscosity ranging from 200 mPa-s to 400 mPa-s prior to sterilization.

28. The skin care composition of claim 26, wherein the skin care composition exhibits a viscosity after sterilization in a range from 200 mPa-s to 400 mPa-s.

29. A cosmetic composition for the care of keratin materials, comprising the skin care composition of any one of claims 1 to 28, and at least one substrate.

30. The cosmetic composition of claim 29, wherein the keratin material is skin.

31. Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one of the skin care compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 28 or the cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 29 to 30.

32. The cosmetic method according to claim 31, wherein the keratin material is skin.

33. The cosmetic method according to claim 31, wherein the keratin material is facial skin.