CN108391862A - A kind of apparel construction and constructive method of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old - Google Patents

A kind of apparel construction and constructive method of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old Download PDF

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Publication number
CN108391862A
CN108391862A CN201810353594.2A CN201810353594A CN108391862A CN 108391862 A CN108391862 A CN 108391862A CN 201810353594 A CN201810353594 A CN 201810353594A CN 108391862 A CN108391862 A CN 108391862A
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China
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piece
bow
old
shoulder
aged
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CN201810353594.2A
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邹奉元
汪会
李涛
谢锋
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Jefen Fashion Co ltd
Zhejiang University of Technology ZJUT
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Jefen Fashion Co ltd
Zhejiang University of Technology ZJUT
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Priority to CN201810353594.2A priority Critical patent/CN108391862A/en
Publication of CN108391862A publication Critical patent/CN108391862A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of apparel constructions and constructive method of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, using normal model as reference standard, carry out part parameters revision, specifically there is across back, front mid-arnhole, neck circumference, chest, waistline, the loose measure of buttocks, front and back clothing body length, BL BUST LINE, waist nodel line, armhole line and, the amendment of shoulder dart, and back coat destructing design is carried out on this basis, shoulder design was added in position, insertion elastic force stealth garment piece at shoulder is crossed in back, elastic force stealth garment piece is connected by zipper, facilitate replacement, and do not influence wears effect, only can just it work when bending over activity, and add high-tension item on sleeve piece armhole top greatly, it is set to be more suitable for the build of the bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, increase movement comfort.And the waistband that can automatically adjust loose measure is increased in waist location, present invention improves existing the elderly's clothes, fitness, raising snugness of fit do not increase warmth retention property.

Description

A kind of apparel construction and constructive method of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of bow-backed body middle and old aged people's wears, belong to ergonomics field, Clothing Structure Design field, have Body relates to a kind of apparel construction and constructive method of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old
Background technology
Also long-lived epoch, an aging epoch are marched toward while the mankind stride into 21 century, China's aging at present Population has reached 1.3 hundred million, this imply that person in middle and old age's Man's Demands will increase sharply.
With the continuous improvement of national economy, demand of the mid-aged population to clothes gradually increases, and more focuses on clothes Fitness, functionality, comfort and aesthetics.However current Clothing Consuming market is leading, clothes in the market with person between twenty and fifty All it is to be produced by normal type standard high volume.Since significant portion is all special type in person in middle and old age consumer, and build becomes Change greatly, the total class of pattern of body form change is more, most common to have bow-backed body, fat body, convex belly etc., so in the market by reference sheet batch The clothes of amount production are difficult to meet person in middle and old age consumer groups comfort demand.
It is influenced by human body organic growth rule itself, as the age increases, human body head leans forward, and backbone is gradually curved, The arched bending of thoracic vertebrae, back and arm turn forward, therefore mid-aged population build generally has different degrees of hunchback, especially The elderly's severe hunchback in 70 years old or more is more.For the ease of the activity of upper limb trunk and both arms, mid-aged population would generally select It selects not fit but is convenient for movable large size type jacket.
By investigating the physical characteristic problem of bow-backed body middle-aged and the old consumer, find in the huge middle-aged and the old masses In their build there are one universal feature --- back is in different degrees of bow-backed state, before other features have back Curvature of inclining is big, and neck shortens, and fat thickens, and both shoulders are in smoother shape in advance, and relaxation is all presented in whole-body muscle, therefore breastheight point has It is glided, and waist and bung fat showed increased, abdomen has apparent outer gibbosity, four limbs action with the variation of time It is slow.It is found in the problem of dressing by investigating bow-backed body person in middle and old age consumer, middle-aged and the old's dress of bow-backed body is existing After the middle and old aged people's wear that some is produced by regular model, occurring that the front part is long and the back is short, rear garment piece tightens lifting, and neck is intractable, after Tight at armhole, predecessor pushes away the problems such as accumulating excessive loose measure.Middle-aged and the old's dress is extremely uncomfortable, falls to be easy under preceding neckline to fill wind, by Decline in the heat production function of the middle-aged and the old, it is easy to cause chill apoplexy etc. uncomfortable, cause family burden.
Invention content
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of apparel construction and constructive method of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, for Chest breadth present in existing old people's clothes and the not fit front and back waist section length of across back not aptamer, sleeve width and sleeve height not aptamer etc. Problem proposes people-oriented, humanized design theory, has done careful analysis corrections to bow-backed body pattern handling, answered first With foundation structure, amendment is made to the architecture prototyping of jacket style, architecture prototyping is made to be suitble to bow-backed body build, then further according to Principle of human engineering carries out structure change design, so that its structure is not only suitable for bow-backed body person in middle and old age group, is more in line in hunchback old The comfortable properties of movement requirement of year people.
In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problem, it adopts the following technical scheme that:
A kind of apparel construction of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, including front cut pieces, collar, rear garment piece and sleeve piece, rear garment piece Shoulder piece and rear bottom sheet are crossed including back coat, it is characterised in that:The lower part that back coat crosses shoulder piece sews elastic contact clothing piece, bullet Power contact clothing on piece is sewed with the first slide fastener and the second slide fastener, and the first slide fastener connection back coat crosses shoulder piece, after the connection of the second slide fastener Bottom sheet;Piece of tucking inside the sleeve includes big sleeve piece and small sleeve piece, and big on piece of tucking inside the sleeve is sewed with high-tension item;The waist of front cut pieces is sewed with waistband, waist Band includes belt buckle and belt strip, and the fixing end of belt strip connects belt buckle, and the movable end of belt strip is buckled in belt buckle;Waist It is equipped with reel in buckle, torsion spring is equipped in reel, is equipped with waistband in belt strip, waistband is wound on reel.
After it is preferred that, elastic force stealth garment piece is made of the high-elastic grenadine fabrics of PTT.High-elastic grenadine fabric texture is frivolous, can facilitate The elderly bends over activity, and does not influence wears effect.
After it is preferred that, the length of the first slide fastener and the second slide fastener is 30cm, elastic force stealth garment piece wide 10cm, long 30cm.
Further, front cut pieces inboard is sewed with bagging, and there is a pkt. flap at the sack position, on pkt. flap addition velcro and Front cut pieces correspond to pocket portion velcro and mutually fit..
Further, back coat crosses the shoulder of shoulder piece equipped with shoulder province.
Further, belt buckle is equipped with buckle, and buckle is hinged with belt buckle, and button hole is formed between buckle and belt buckle, Button hole connects belt strip movable end.Belt strip movable end has access in button hole, and is fixed by hinged buckle, opening side Just, fixation, dress are convenient.
A kind of constructive method of the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that packet Include following steps:
(1) reference dimension is selected:It is distributed according to China person in middle and old age human somatotype feature, selectes and draw version type with reference to build, Reference dimension with reference to build is:Carry on the back long 38.5cm, across back 37cm, shoulder breadth 39cm, chest breadth 35cm, bust 90cm, waistline 86cm, hip circumference 106cm, armhole depth 23cm, neck breadth 7.5cm, sleeve height 15cm;
(2) reference dimension obtained according to step (1) draws person in middle and old age's Japanese Culture by the method for planar design Formula prototype foundation constructed prototype;
(3) structural parameters amendment is carried out for bow-backed body key position, is first divided into bow-backed body gently according to bow-backed degree The bow-backed body of degree, intensity hunchback body;The allocation proportion for adjusting front cut pieces and bust, waistline and abdominal circumference on rear garment piece, according to back It is deep that degree of convexity increases across back, shoulder breadth and back armhole, reduces front mid-arnhole, shoulder slope line with lead that the gradient of camber line is corresponding to be changed afterwards, after Shoulder dart, which increases and saves point, to be moved up;
(4) according to the bow-backed body person in middle and old age foundation structure model of drafting, destructing design is carried out, after rear garment piece is divided into Clothing body crosses shoulder piece and rear bottom sheet, split position be added elastic force stealth garment piece, elastic force contact clothing on piece draw the first slide fastener with Second slide fastener;High-tension item is drawn in sleeve on piece greatly;
(5) the foundation structure model drawn according to step (2)-step (4), garment piece is cut on fabric, is carried out after cutting Suture obtains bow-backed body person in middle and old age's jacket.
(6) waistband is sewed in the waist of bow-backed body person in middle and old age jacket;
After it is preferred that, in step (3), sleeve width and sleeve height are adjusted according to human dimension.
After it is preferred that, in step (3), concrete structure parameters revision is:A, preceding armhole curve is retracted 0.5cm, intensity hunchback body Retraction can be increased to be worth to 1cm, the retraction of preceding armhole curve is equivalent to the reduction of front mid-arnhole;B, back porch dart increases 0.2cm, saves Point moves up 0.2cm, moves 0.5cm outside back armhole camber line, and intensity hunchback body can moderately increase back porch dart to 0.5cm, save point can on 0.5cm is moved to, 1cm is moved to outside back armhole camber line;C, front cut pieces fold 0.5-1.5cm from front edge line along shirtfront the wide line;d、 It is cut off at back armhole deep 1/3, pulls open 1cm, intensity hunchback body can be cut off at back armhole deep 2/3, pull open 1cm, low back section is set It is corresponding to reduce 1-1.5cm.
After it is preferred that, in step (5) cutting process:A, back coat crosses the lower part lengthening 4cm of shoulder piece 13, and fold-back 2cm is as seam Part, armhole is taken advantage of a situation cuttings, and remaining 2cm is used to block coupling part;B, shoulder piece is crossed in the both sides of elastic force stealth garment piece and rear bottom sheet is surplus Remaining not connected part is connected using two-wire;C, back coat is first crossed shoulder piece to connect with armhole with rear bottom sheet, then passes through the first slide fastener Elastic force stealth garment piece is connected on rear garment piece with the second slide fastener.Step a stashes the first slide fastener and the second slide fastener, no Can have an impact the aesthetics of the clothes;Step b is not connected with part using the both sides residue of two-wire connection elastic force stealth garment piece, can It prevents the folding of elastic force stealth garment piece from both sides being caused to burst at the seams, enhances fastness;Step c facilitates back coat to cross shoulder piece and rear bottom sheet Connect armhole.
Due to the adoption of the above technical scheme, it has the advantages that:
The present invention is a kind of apparel construction and constructive method of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, proposes people-oriented, human nature The design concept of change has done careful analysis corrections, first application foundation structure, to jacket style to bow-backed body pattern handling Architecture prototyping make amendment, so that architecture prototyping is suitble to bow-backed body build, then carry out structure change further according to principle of human engineering Change design, so that its structure is not only suitable for bow-backed body person in middle and old age group, be more in line with the comfortable properties of movement requirement of the bow-backed middle-aged and the old. Its specific advantageous effect shows as the following:
1, elastic force stealth garment piece is connect by the first slide fastener with the second slide fastener with rear garment piece, facilitates replacement, and does not influence to wear Effect, only can just be worked when bending over activity, it is made to be more suitable for the build of the bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, increases movement Comfort.
2, high-tension item is connected to armhole position, can give loose measure enough at armhole, zoarium comfortable and easy to wear, arm Activity is convenient.
3, waistband can automatically control waist loose measure, and Automatic Control Theory is:For the person in middle and old age of intensity hunchback body People, waist need larger loose measure with back, and the waistband on reel releases waistband, and the loose measure that waist obtains increases simultaneously It is shifted to back so that the overall dimensions of jacket increase, and the middle-aged and the old for meeting the build wears requirement;For slight bow-backed The middle-aged and the old of body, by the screen resilience of torsion spring, in waistband backrush to reel, the loose measure that waist obtains is smaller and shadow Ring back loose measure so that the overall dimensions of jacket reduce, and the person in middle and old age for meeting the build wear requirement.It is controlled automatically by waistband Waist quantity processed reaches dress zoarium and comfortable purpose, in the situation bent over under motion state be not in discomfort.
4, the build feature that existing middle and old aged people's wear is not related to the bow-backed body middle-aged and the old usually is improved.It is more in line with The comfortable properties of movement requirement of the bow-backed middle-aged and the old, and do not influence wears effect.In addition in addition on stealthy elastic force garment piece and big sleeve Outside resilient strip, common garment material can be taken to make, and back elastic force stealth garment piece can be replaced, cost Low, overall appearance does not have significant change, but not back lifting occurs, the disadvantage that shirtfront is hollow, improves snugness of fit, closes Body increases warmth retention property.
Description of the drawings
The invention will be further described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings:
Fig. 1 is the prototype rendering architecture template drawing that the present invention is used for middle and old aged people's wear;
Fig. 2 is body chip architecture figure of the present invention for bow-backed body middle and old aged people's wear;
Fig. 3 is structural schematic diagram of the present invention for the sleeve piece of bow-backed body middle and old aged people's wear;
Fig. 4 is the preceding style figure of ready-made clothes of the present invention;
Fig. 5 is the rear style figure of ready-made clothes of the present invention;
Fig. 6 is the connection detail drawing of rear garment piece and elastic force stealth garment piece.
Specific implementation mode
As shown in Figures 1 to 6, a kind of apparel construction of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, including front cut pieces 24, collar 25, Rear garment piece and piece of tucking inside the sleeve are sewed with bagging, marsupial tooth are formed on bagging on front cut pieces 24.
Rear garment piece includes that back coat crosses shoulder piece 13 and rear bottom sheet 14, and the shoulder that back coat crosses shoulder piece 13 saves 8 equipped with shoulder.Afterwards The lower part that clothing body crosses shoulder piece 13 sews elastic contact clothing piece 12, and elastic force stealth garment piece 12 is made of the high-elastic grenadine fabrics of PTT. High-elastic grenadine fabric texture is frivolous, the elderly can be facilitated to bend over activity, and do not influence wears effect.On elastic force stealth garment piece 12 Be sewed with the first slide fastener 15 and the second slide fastener 16, the first slide fastener 15 connection back coat crosses shoulder piece 13, after the connection of the second slide fastener 16 under Piece 14;The length of first slide fastener 15 and the second slide fastener 16 is 30cm, elastic force stealth garment piece 12 width 10cm, long 30cm.Elastic force is stealthy Garment piece 12 is connect by the first slide fastener 15 with the second slide fastener 16 with rear garment piece, facilitates replacement, and do not influence wears effect, only It can just work when bending over activity, it is made to be more suitable for the build of the bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, increase movement comfort.
Piece of tucking inside the sleeve includes big sleeve piece 9 and small sleeve piece 11, and high-tension item 10 is sewed on big piece 9 of tucking inside the sleeve;High-tension item 10 is connected to Armhole position can give loose measure enough at armhole, and zoarium comfortable and easy to wear, arm activity is conveniently.
The waist of front cut pieces 24 is sewed with waistband 26, and waistband 26 includes belt buckle 28 and belt strip 27, and belt strip 27 is consolidated Fixed end connects belt buckle 28, and the movable end of belt strip 27 is buckled in belt buckle 28;Reel 31, reel 31 are equipped in belt buckle 28 It is interior to be equipped with torsion spring 32, it is equipped with waistband 30 in belt strip 27, waistband 30 is wound on reel 31.It is set on belt buckle 28 There is buckle 29, buckle 29 is hinged with belt buckle 28, and button hole (not marked in figure) is formed between buckle 29 and belt buckle 28, detains Hole connects 27 movable end of belt strip.27 movable end of belt strip has access in button hole, and is fixed by hinged buckle 29, beats Just, fixation, dress is conveniently for evolution.Waistband 26 can automatically control waist loose measure, and Automatic Control Theory is:For strong The middle-aged and the old of the bow-backed body of degree, waist need larger loose measure with back, and the waistband 30 on reel 31 releases waistband 30, the loose measure that waist obtains increases and is shifted to back so that the overall dimensions of jacket increase, and meet the person in middle and old age of the build People, which wears, to be required;For the middle-aged and the old of slight bow-backed body, by the screen resilience of torsion spring 32, waistband 30 returns roll-to-roll On cylinder 31, the loose measure that waist obtains is smaller and influences back loose measure so that the overall dimensions of jacket reduce, and meet the build Person in middle and old age, which wear, to be required.Waist surplus is automatically controlled by waistband 26, reaches dress zoarium and comfortable purpose, is bending over to lift It is not in the situation of discomfort under the motion states such as arm.
A kind of constructive method of the apparel construction of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, includes the following steps:
(1) reference dimension is selected:It is distributed according to China person in middle and old age human somatotype feature, if being subject to national standard build, China's middle and aged women build is largely for B builds and close to C builds, therefore the reference dimension of selected B builds draws version type, ginseng It is as shown in table 1 to examine size:
(2) reference dimension obtained according to step (1) draws person in middle and old age's Japanese Culture by the method for planar design Formula prototype foundation constructed prototype;
(3) structural parameters amendment is carried out for bow-backed body key position, is first divided into bow-backed body gently according to bow-backed degree The bow-backed body of degree, intensity hunchback body;The allocation proportion for adjusting front cut pieces 24 and bust, waistline and abdominal circumference on rear garment piece, according to the back of the body Portion degree of convexity increases by 2 wide, shoulder breadths of the back of the body and back armhole 5 is deep, and it is wide to reduce shirtfront 7, shoulder slope line with lead that the gradient of camber line is corresponding to be changed afterwards Become, 8 amount of back shoulder dart, which increases and saves point, to be moved up;Sleeve width 22 and sleeve height 21 are adjusted according to human dimension;
Concrete structure parameters revision is:
A, 6 camber line of preceding armhole is retracted 0.5cm, and intensity hunchback body can increase retraction and be worth to 1cm, the retraction of 6 camber line of preceding armhole It is equivalent to the wide reduction in shirtfront 7;
B, 8 amount of back shoulder dart increases 0.2cm, saves point and moves up 0.2cm, moves 0.5cm outside 5 camber line of back armhole, intensity hunchback body can Appropriateness increases 8 amount of back shoulder dart to 0.5cm, saves point and can move up to 0.5cm, 5 camber line of back armhole moves to 1cm outside;
C, the structural modifications of Attacking Midfielder's section 19:Front cut pieces 24 fold 0.5-1.5cm from front edge line along 7 the wide line of shirtfront;
D, the structural modifications of low back section 20:It is cut off at back armhole 5 deep 1/3, pulls open 1cm, intensity hunchback body can be in back armhole It is cut off at 5 deep 2/3, pulls open 1cm, low back section sets corresponding reduction 1-1.5cm.
(4) according to the bow-backed body person in middle and old age foundation structure model of drafting, destructing design is carried out, after rear garment piece is divided into Clothing body crosses shoulder piece 13 and rear bottom sheet 14, and elastic force stealth garment piece 12 is added in split position, and the is drawn on elastic force stealth garment piece 12 One slide fastener 15 and the second slide fastener 16;High-tension item 10 is drawn on sleeve piece 9 greatly;
(5) the foundation structure model drawn according to step (2)-step (4), garment piece is cut on fabric, is carried out after cutting Suture obtains bow-backed body person in middle and old age's jacket.
It should be noted the following during the cutting process:
A, back coat is crossed shoulder piece 13 and is chosen to a fixed point, which is to be lengthened at this at 23 labels of Fig. 2 4cm, then the 2cm that turns back stitch part;First slide fastener 15 and the second slide fastener 16 are stashed, will not have an impact the aesthetics of the clothes;
B, the not connected part of the both sides residue of elastic force stealth garment piece 12 is connected using two-wire;It is hidden using two-wire connection elastic force The both sides residue of shape garment piece 12 is not connected with part, improves the fastness of elastic force stealth garment piece 12;
C, back coat is first crossed shoulder piece 13 to connect with armhole with rear bottom sheet 14, then passes through the first slide fastener 15 and the second slide fastener 16 are connected to elastic force stealth garment piece 12 on rear garment piece.Facilitate back coat to cross shoulder piece 13 and connect armhole with rear bottom sheet 14.
(6) waistband 26 is sewed in the waist of bow-backed body person in middle and old age jacket;
It these are only specific embodiments of the present invention, but the technical characteristic of the present invention is not limited thereto.It is any with this hair Based on bright, to solve essentially identical technical problem, essentially identical technique effect is realized, made ground simple change, etc. With replacement or modification etc., all it is covered by among protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. a kind of apparel construction of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old, including front cut pieces, collar, rear garment piece and sleeve piece, the rear clothing Piece includes that back coat crosses shoulder piece and rear bottom sheet, it is characterised in that:The lower part that the back coat crosses shoulder piece sews elastic contact clothing Piece, the elastic force contact clothing on piece are sewed with the first slide fastener and the second slide fastener, and first slide fastener connects the back coat and crosses shoulder Piece, bottom sheet after the second slide fastener connection is described;Piece of tucking inside the sleeve includes big sleeve piece and small sleeve piece, and the big sleeve on piece is sewed with high-tension Item;The waist of the front cut pieces is sewed with waistband, and the waistband includes belt buckle and belt strip, and the fixing end of the belt strip connects The belt buckle is connect, the movable end of the belt strip is buckled in the belt buckle;Reel, the reel are equipped in the belt buckle It is interior to be equipped with torsion spring, it is equipped with waistband in the belt strip, the waistband is wound on the reel.
2. the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old according to claim 1 a kind of, it is characterised in that:The elastic force Stealthy garment piece is made of the high-elastic grenadine fabrics of PTT.
3. the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old according to claim 1 a kind of, it is characterised in that:Described first The length of slide fastener and second slide fastener is 30cm, the wide 10cm of elastic force stealth garment piece, long 30cm.
4. the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old according to claim 1 a kind of, it is characterised in that:The preceding clothing On piece is sewed with bagging, and there is pkt. flap at the sack position, adds velcro on the pkt. flap and front cut pieces correspond to pocket Position velcro mutually fits.
5. the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old according to claim 1 a kind of, it is characterised in that:Clothing after described The shoulder that body crosses shoulder piece is saved equipped with shoulder.
6. the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old according to claim 1 a kind of, it is characterised in that:The waistband It buckles and is equipped with buckle, the buckle is hinged with the belt buckle, and button hole is formed between the buckle and the belt buckle, described Button hole connects the belt strip movable end.
7. a kind of constructive method of the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that Include the following steps:
(1) reference dimension is selected:It is distributed according to China person in middle and old age human somatotype feature, selectes and draw version type with reference to build, it is described Reference dimension with reference to build is:Carry on the back long 38.5cm, across back 37cm, shoulder breadth 39cm, chest breadth 35cm, bust 90cm, waistline 86cm, Hip circumference 106cm, armhole depth 23cm, neck breadth 7.5cm, sleeve height 15cm;
(2) reference dimension obtained according to step (1) draws person in middle and old age's Japanese cultural type prototype by the method for planar design Foundation structure model;
(3) structural parameters amendment is carried out for bow-backed body key position, bow-backed body is divided by slight camel according to bow-backed degree first Carry on the back body, intensity hunchback body;The allocation proportion for adjusting front cut pieces and bust, waistline and abdominal circumference on rear garment piece, according to back protrusion It is deep that degree increases across back, shoulder breadth and back armhole, reduces front mid-arnhole, shoulder slope line with lead that the gradient of camber line is corresponding to be changed afterwards, back shoulder dart Amount, which increases and saves point, to be moved up;
(4) according to the bow-backed body person in middle and old age foundation structure model of drafting, destructing design is carried out, rear garment piece is divided into back coat mistake Elastic force stealth garment piece is added in split position in shoulder piece and rear bottom sheet, draws the first slide fastener and second in elastic force contact clothing on piece and draws Chain;High-tension item is drawn in sleeve on piece greatly;
(5) the foundation structure model drawn according to step (2)-step (4), garment piece is cut on fabric, is sutured after cutting, Obtain bow-backed body person in middle and old age's jacket;
(6) waistband is sewed in the waist of bow-backed body person in middle and old age jacket.
8. a kind of constructive method of the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old according to claim 7, feature exist In:In the step (3), sleeve width and sleeve height are adjusted according to human dimension.
9. a kind of constructive method of the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old according to claim 7, feature exist In:In the step (3), concrete structure parameters revision is:A, preceding armhole curve is retracted 0.5cm, and intensity hunchback body can increase contracting Into value to 1cm, the retraction of preceding armhole curve is equivalent to the reduction of front mid-arnhole;B, back porch dart increases 0.2cm, saves point and moves up 0.2cm, moves 0.5cm outside back armhole camber line, and intensity hunchback body can moderately increase back porch dart to 0.5cm, save point can move up to 0.5cm, back armhole camber line move to 1cm outside;C, front cut pieces fold 0.5-1.5cm from front edge line along shirtfront the wide line;D, rear sleeve It is cut off at gallery deep 1/3, pulls open 1cm, intensity hunchback body can be cut off at back armhole deep 2/3, pull open 1cm, low back section is set accordingly Reduce 1-1.5cm.
10. a kind of constructive method of the apparel construction of suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old according to claim 7, feature exist In:In step (5) cutting process:A, back coat crosses the lower part lengthening 4cm of shoulder piece 13, and fold-back 2cm, which is used as, stitches part, and armhole is suitable Gesture is cut, and remaining 2cm is for blocking coupling part;B, shoulder piece is crossed in elastic force stealth garment piece both sides and rear bottom sheet residue is not connected with part It is connected using two-wire;C, back coat is first crossed shoulder piece to be fixed with suture with rear bottom sheet armhole curve both sides intersection, distance seam Part edge 0.5cm, then elastic force stealth garment piece is connected on rear garment piece by the first slide fastener and the second slide fastener.
CN201810353594.2A 2018-04-19 2018-04-19 A kind of apparel construction and constructive method of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old Pending CN108391862A (en)

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CN208354630U (en) * 2018-04-19 2019-01-11 浙江理工大学 A kind of apparel construction of the suitable bow-backed body middle-aged and the old

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