CN107708467B - Shoe upper and method for manufacturing shoe upper - Google Patents

Shoe upper and method for manufacturing shoe upper Download PDF

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Publication number
CN107708467B
CN107708467B CN201680034670.2A CN201680034670A CN107708467B CN 107708467 B CN107708467 B CN 107708467B CN 201680034670 A CN201680034670 A CN 201680034670A CN 107708467 B CN107708467 B CN 107708467B
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
fabric
heel
knitting
edge portion
width direction
Prior art date
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Expired - Fee Related
Application number
CN201680034670.2A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN107708467A (en
Inventor
弓场功雄
岛崎宜纪
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Publication of CN107708467A publication Critical patent/CN107708467A/en
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Publication of CN107708467B publication Critical patent/CN107708467B/en
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/025Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by stitching
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/02Footwear stitched or nailed through
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B1/00Footwear characterised by the material
    • A43B1/02Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
    • A43B1/04Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/0295Pieced uppers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/108Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B3/00Footwear characterised by the shape or the use
    • A43B3/0036Footwear characterised by the shape or the use characterised by a special shape or design
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03Shape features
    • D10B2403/033Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/0332Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with gussets folding into three dimensional shape, e.g. seat covers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D10B2501/043Footwear

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides an upper which is easy to sew and has excellent production performance. The upper (1) is provided with a heel fabric (10) formed into a shape surrounding the wearer's achilles tendon to the heel part, and a body fabric (11) constituting a part of the upper (1) other than the heel fabric (10). The upper (1) further comprises a toe side joining part (13) that holds the shape of the front end part of the body fabric (11) in a shape that surrounds the toes of the wearer. A first thread (L1) formed by butting a left side edge part (11a) and a right side edge part (11b) of a body fabric (11) in the knitting width direction at the position of a sole cover surface (2) and a second thread (L2) formed by folding a needle raising part (10s) of a heel fabric (10) in two and butting the two are in a straight line shape.

Description

Shoe upper and method for manufacturing shoe upper
Technical Field
The invention relates to a textile upper and a method for producing the textile upper.
Background
The shoe includes an upper having a sole cover covering a sole of a wearer and an instep cover covering a portion of a instep of the wearer. An outer sole made of synthetic resin or the like is attached to a sole cover of an upper. In recent years, attempts have been made to produce an upper that is mostly made of fabric, is lightweight, and has excellent wearing comfort.
For example, patent document 1 discloses an attempt to produce a shoe having an instep cover in which an upper is formed of a single piece of fabric, and which is excellent in productivity. In the case of manufacturing the shoe upper using the instep cover described in patent document 1, the instep cover is joined to a sole cover prepared separately from the instep cover by sewing to form the shoe upper.
Documents of the prior art
Patent document
Patent document 1 International publication No. 2015/037540
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
In recent years, further improvement in productivity of uppers has been desired. In response to such a demand, in the case of manufacturing an upper using an instep cover knitted by the technique of patent document 1, there is a problem that the work of sewing the instep cover and the sole cover is somewhat complicated. This is because the instep cover and the sole cover are separated from each other, and the sewn portion needs to be aligned, and the sewing line is curved. In order to sew the shoe in a curved shape, some skill is required, and the productivity of the shoe upper may be reduced due to the uneven work time required for sewing workers with different skills.
The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide an upper that is easy to sew and has excellent productivity, and a method for manufacturing the same.
Means for solving the problems
The upper of the present invention is constituted by a fabric including a sole cover covering all of a sole portion of a wearer and an instep cover covering an instep portion of the wearer and forming a welt, and includes the following configuration.
A heel fabric knitted so that a needle raising portion wider than a needle narrowing portion is formed in a shape that surrounds a portion from the achilles tendon to the heel of the wearer, the needle raising portion being arranged on the sole cover surface side in a state where a center in a knitting width direction thereof is folded in two and butted against the sole cover surface, and the needle narrowing portion constituting a part of the heel side of the cuff.
A body fabric that is woven continuously with the left and right side edge portions of the heel fabric in the weaving width direction, and that constitutes a portion of the upper other than the heel fabric.
A toe-side joint portion formed by joining an edge portion on a wale direction terminal end side of the body fabric close to a center side in the knitting width direction of the body fabric, and configured to maintain a shape of a front end portion of the body fabric in a shape surrounding a toe of a wearer.
In the shoe upper having the above-described configuration, a first thread formed at a position of the shoe upper surface and abutting a left side edge portion and a right side edge portion in a knitting width direction of the body fabric and a second thread formed by folding the needle raising portion of the heel fabric in two and abutting each other are formed in a straight line shape.
An embodiment of the upper of the present invention includes an embodiment including a sewn portion where the first thread and the second thread are sewn.
The method for manufacturing an upper according to the present invention is a method for manufacturing an upper by knitting an upper using a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds, the upper including a sole cover covering a sole portion of a wearer and an instep cover covering an instep portion of the wearer and forming a welt. When the upper is divided into a heel fabric having a size from the heel side portion of the cuff to the heel side portion of the mat and surrounding a portion from the achilles tendon to the heel of the wearer and a body fabric constituting a portion other than the heel fabric, the following steps are performed.
A step α of knitting the heel fabric having the set-up portion wider than the set-down portion.
A step β of starting knitting the left side portion of the body fabric continuously with the left side edge portion in the knitting width direction of the heel fabric, and starting knitting the right side portion of the body fabric continuously with the right side edge portion in the knitting width direction of the heel fabric.
And a step γ of knitting the left side portion and the right side portion in a state of being arranged in the right and left direction on the needle bed, and forming the toe side of the body fabric into a pointed shape.
A step δ of sequentially joining a left-side bending edge portion formed on the toe side of the left-side portion and a right-side bending edge portion formed on the toe side of the right-side portion from a boundary side therebetween.
In the step γ, after the upper is knitted, the heel fabric is folded in half at the center in the knitting width direction thereof, and when the left side portion and the right side portion of the body fabric are overlapped in the thickness direction, the knitting width of the left side portion and the knitting width of the right side portion are adjusted so that the left side edge portion in the knitting width direction of the left side portion and the right side edge portion in the knitting width direction of the right side portion are linear, and here, it is preferable that the knitting structure is knitted using front and rear needle beds at least in part of the steps α to γ.
As an embodiment of the method of manufacturing an upper according to the present invention, there is an embodiment in which after the raised needle portion of the heel fabric is knitted, the knitting width of the heel fabric is increased by performing inner widening at least two portions sandwiching the central portion in the knitting width direction.
As an embodiment of the method for manufacturing an upper of the present invention, an embodiment may be mentioned in which the following step ∈ is further performed after the above-mentioned step δ.
In step s, a first thread that joins a left edge portion and a right edge portion of the body fabric in the knitting width direction and a second thread that joins the raised needle portion of the heel fabric in two and is sewn together are joined together.
Effects of the invention
The upper of the present invention is designed to extend in a straight line by sewing a first thread and a second thread that join left and right fabrics at the position of a shoe cover. The sewing of the upper in a straight line can be easily performed, and the upper of the present invention does not require sewing for forming the upper into a three-dimensional shape at portions other than the first and second linear lines in a straight line. Therefore, the shoe upper of the present invention can be manufactured with good productivity.
According to the method of manufacturing an upper of the present invention, an upper having a straight sewn portion for forming a three-dimensional shape can be knitted. Furthermore, since the sewing portion for forming the knitted upper into a three-dimensional shape is a single portion, productivity of the upper can be improved.
The heel fabric can be woven into a three-dimensional shape by performing the inner stitch in the heel fabric weaving step α, and as a result, the heel fabric of the upper can be shaped to follow the shape of the heel of the wearer.
By performing the step epsilon of sewing and joining the first thread and the second thread, a three-dimensional shoe upper can be manufactured. Since the first thread and the second thread are formed in a straight line shape, sewing work can be easily performed.
Drawings
Fig. 1A is a schematic perspective view of the upper according to embodiment 1, as viewed obliquely from above.
Fig. 1B is a schematic bottom view of the shoe upper.
Figure 2A is a schematic left side view of an upper.
Figure 2B is a schematic right side view of the upper.
Fig. 3 is a schematic view showing an example of a knitting procedure of the upper shown in embodiment 1.
Detailed Description
Embodiments of an upper and a method for manufacturing the same according to the present invention will be described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
< embodiment 1 >
Integral constitution
In embodiment 1, an example of manufacturing the shoe upper 1 shown in fig. 1A, 1B, 2A, and 2B will be described. The upper 1 is a woven fabric knitted with knitting yarn at least a part of which includes heat-bonding yarn, and includes a sole cover 2 covering a sole portion of a wearer and an instep cover 3 covering an instep portion of the wearer and forming a welt 4. An outer sole (not shown) made of resin or the like may be attached to the outer side of the sole cover 2 in the upper 1. Although the sole cover 2 is shown in fig. 2A and 2B as viewed from the side for convenience of explanation, the sole cover 2 is not substantially seen from the side in reality.
The throat 4 of the upper 1 of this example extends in a slit shape toward the toe side, and a tongue 5 is formed at the cut end of the slit. Also, lace holes 6 through which a lace passes are formed at the positions of both ribs of the slit in the instep cover 3. The tongue 5 and the lace holes 6 are formed in any way.
The shoe upper 1 having the above-described configuration is a woven fabric knitted by a flat knitting machine, and has a three-dimensional shape that follows the shape of the wearer's foot. In particular, the heel side portion and the toe side portion of the upper 1 have a three-dimensional shape following the shape of the foot. The reason why the upper 1 has a three-dimensional shape is that the upper 1 is divided into a heel fabric 10 and a body fabric 11, and the heel fabric 10 is knitted and then the body fabric 11 is knitted, as shown in a method for manufacturing an upper to be described later. In fig. 1A, 1B, 2A, and 2B, the knitting width direction of the heel fabric 10 and the body fabric 11 (the direction in which stitches are aligned in the longitudinal direction of the needle bed at the time of knitting) is indicated by thin lines. In other words, the direction perpendicular to the thin line is the wale direction. Here, the tongue 5 is also a fabric, but the knitting width direction thereof is omitted in fig. 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B.
Fabric for heel
The heel fabric 10 is a fabric covering a portion from the achilles tendon to the heel of the wearer. The raised portion 10s of this heel fabric 10 is arranged on the side of the top cover 2 in a state where the center in the knitting width direction is butted in two folds (see fig. 1B). More specifically, the center portion (see the black arrow) of the raised portion 10s folded in two is disposed on the heel side, and both end portions (see the open arrow) are disposed on the toe side. The thread (second thread L2) formed by folding the needle raising portion 10s in two and butting against each other extends linearly toward the toe. On the other hand, the needle narrowing portion 10e of the heel fabric 10 constitutes a part of the heel side of the cuff 4 formed above the instep cover 3 (see fig. 1A).
The heel fabric 10 is knitted so that the width of the set-up portion 10s is substantially trapezoidal larger than the width of the set-down portion 10 e. Therefore, on the instep cover 3 side shown in fig. 1A, both the left side edge portion 10a and the right side edge portion 10b extending from the vicinity of the portion that does not step on the ground to the welt 4 in the boundary between the instep cover 2 and the instep cover 3 are inclined toward the heel side. In addition, on the side of the cover surface 2 shown in fig. 1B, a left side edge portion 10a (right side edge portion 10B) extending leftward (rightward) from the central portion of the cover surface 2 is inclined toward the heel side. Here, the heel fabric 10 may be formed in a substantially triangular shape. In this case, both edge portions 10a and 10b are also inclined toward the heel side.
Fabric for shoe body
The body fabric 11 is knitted so that the left edge portion 10a and the right edge portion 10b of the heel fabric 10 are continuously knitted, and the end stitches in the knitting width direction of the heel fabric 10 are connected to the end stitches in the wale direction of the body fabric 11 at the positions of the edge portions 10a and 10 b. As a result, the heel fabric 10 and the body fabric 11 are supported by each other, and the shape of the heel side portion of the upper 1 is maintained in a three-dimensional shape.
As shown in fig. 1A, the left side portion 11L of the body fabric 11 continuous with the left side edge portion 10a of the heel fabric 10 and the right side portion 11R of the body fabric 11 continuous with the right side edge portion 10b of the heel fabric 10 are continuous at the toe-side position on the instep surface 3 side and have no connecting line. The left side portion 11L is not connected to the right side portion 11R, and forms the welt 4 together with the needle-receiving portion 10e of the heel fabric 10. On the other hand, on the side of the cover 2, a connecting line (toe-side joint portion 13) connecting the left portion 11L and a part of the right portion 11R on the toe side by knitting is formed, and a part (first line L1 described later) other than this toe-side joint portion 13 is connected by sewing, not by knitting.
The toe side joint portion 13 is formed by joining the edge portion on the wale direction terminal end side of the body fabric 11 closer to the center side in the knitting width direction of the body fabric 11. More specifically, the toe side joint portion 13 is formed by sequentially joining the edge portion on the wale direction terminal end side of the left side portion 11L of the body fabric 11 and the edge portion on the wale direction terminal end side of the right side portion 11R of the body fabric 11 from the toe side. The toe-side joint 13 maintains the shape of the front end portion of the body fabric 11 in a shape surrounding the toes of the wearer.
By forming the toe-side joint portion 13, the left edge portion 11a and the right edge portion 11b of the body fabric 11 that bypasses the mat surface 2 side in the knitting width direction are in a state of abutting. The first line L1 joining the left edge portion 11a and the right edge portion 11b extends linearly, and is sewn together with the second line L2 that joins the knitted fabric 10s of the heel fabric 10 after being folded in two. That is, in the upper 1 of this example, the sewn portions 14 that are sewn together are formed by sewing the left and right fabrics at the position of the shoe upper cover 2.
Organization of knitting instep cover
At least a part of the upper 1 (the heel fabric 10 and the body fabric 11), in the present embodiment, the entire upper 1 is formed of a thick knitting structure knitted with front and rear needle beds. The method of knitting the thick-walled knitting structure is not particularly limited. For example, thick knitting structures can be knitted by appropriately combining knitting with front and back needle beds such as rib knitting and cylinder plain knitting. Such a knitted fabric is thicker and stronger than a knitted fabric (for example, a plain stitch) knitted with either one of the front and rear needle beds. If the shoe upper 1 of the shoe which receives a load during use is constituted by a thick knitted structure, the shoe upper 1 is not easily deformed and can be made excellent in durability. Here, the front and rear needle beds can be used for knitting a thick knitting structure, and the left side portion 11L and the right side portion 11R are knitted in a row in the longitudinal direction of the needle beds as shown in a knitting step described later with reference to fig. 3.
Method for manufacturing shoe uppers
The upper 1 may be manufactured through a knitting process of knitting the heel fabric 10 and the body fabric 11, a sewing process of sewing the first thread L1 and the second thread L2 disposed on the upper cover 2 side, and a heat treatment process of heat-treating the upper 1.
[ knitting Process ]
In the knitting step, the heel fabric 10 is knitted using a double needle bed flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds, and then the body fabric 11 is knitted. Of course, these fabrics 10, 11 may be knitted by a four-bar flat knitting machine.
In the description of the knitting process, reference is made to fig. 3. Fig. 3 is a schematic view showing a knitting sequence of the knitting method. The open arrows in fig. 3 indicate the direction of progress of knitting (the same direction as the wale direction), and the horizontal lines in each of the portions 10 and 11 indicate the knitting width direction (the direction in which the stitches are arranged). In the figure, the important parts of the knitting are given capital latin letters.
First, the heel fabric 10 is knitted (corresponding to step α). specifically, a plurality of courses continuous in the wale direction of the set-up portion 10s of the heel fabric 10 are knitted by knitting the set-up portion 10s (see point a-point B), and at this time, the knitting width of the course is gradually narrowed, whereby the stitches arranged at the left edge portion 10a (see point a-point C) in the knitting width direction of the obtained heel fabric 10 and the stitches arranged at the right edge portion 10B (see point B-point D) are locked to the needle bed, while the set-down portion 10e (see point C-point D) at the end portion in the wale direction of the heel fabric 10 is narrower than the set-up portion 10s, and the set-down portion 10e is separated from the needle bed by a closing process or the like.
Here, in knitting the heel fabric 10, the inner widening やし may be performed at least at two positions sandwiching the central portion of the heel fabric 10 in the knitting width direction. For example, in two portions toward the center in the knitting width direction and two portions outside in the knitting width direction of the two portions indicated by the two-dot chain lines in the drawing, the widening is performed. The inner widening can be performed by a known inner widening needle that forms a patch or a widening needle by performing a knitting operation for forming a widening stitch in a knitting width of a fabric. By arranging the needles inward during the knitting of the heel fabric 10, the heel fabric 10 is brought into a swollen state, and the shape of the heel fabric 10 can be further formed to follow the shape of the foot.
After step α, the left side portion 11L of the body fabric 11 is knitted from the position of point C continuously with the left side edge portion 10a of the heel fabric 10, and the right side portion 11R of the body fabric 11 is knitted from the position of point D continuously with the right side edge portion 10b of the heel fabric 10 in the knitting width direction (corresponding to step β).
After the step β, the left side portion 11L and the right side portion 11R of the body portion 11 are knitted in a state of being arranged in the left-right direction on the needle bed (step γ) so that the toe side of the body portion 11 is in a pointed shape, and when this body portion 11 is knitted, the knitting width of the left side portion 11L and the knitting width of the right side portion 11R are adjusted (see fig. 2A and 2B) when the knitting of the upper 1 is completed and the left side portion 11L and the right side portion 11R of the body fabric 11 are overlapped in the thickness direction, so that the left side edge 11a in the knitting width direction of the left side portion 11L and the right side edge 11B in the knitting width direction of the right side portion 11R are made to be linear, and when the knitting width is adjusted, the width and height of the left side portion 11L and the right side portion 11R are not necessarily symmetrical, and it is preferable that the left side portion 11L and the right side portion 11R are not in the same width as the foot shape, and the left side portion 11L and the right side portion 11R are not necessarily in a straight line with the top face of the top face 11L, and the sole 1.
In the process γ of this example, the tongue 5 and the lace passages 6 are formed. The tongue 5 is pulled up between the left side portion 11L and the right side portion 11R (see point G-point H), and is connected to the body portion 11 after having reached a desired length. The lace passages 6 may be formed by sewing.
The body part 11 knitted in step γ is knitted so as to have a pointed shape as it goes toward the toe as described above. Specifically, the knitting width of the body section 11 is gradually reduced by reversing course stitch knitting or the like, so that the body section 11 is formed into a pointed shape. By performing such knitting, the left curved edge portion 11c (see point I-point K) formed on the toe side of the left portion 11L and the right curved edge portion 11d (see point J-point K) formed on the toe side of the right portion 11R are locked to the needle bed.
In the case of knitting the body fabric 11, knitting may be performed such that the knitting width of the body fabric 11 is once reduced and then the knitting width is widened so that the toe side portion has a three-dimensional shape. For example, the knitting width of the body fabric 11 is reduced so that the stitches at the end in the knitting width direction are aligned at the points a to b indicated by the two-dot chain lines, and the knitting width of the body fabric 11 is increased so that the points a to b and the points c to b are continuous. By performing such knitting, the toe side portion of the body fabric 11 is trimmed to the shape inside the paper surface, and the subsequent sewing operation is facilitated.
After the step γ, the left-side bending edge portion 11c formed on the toe side of the left portion 11L and the right-side bending edge portion 11d formed on the toe side of the right portion 11R are joined in order from the boundary side between the left-side bending edge portion 11c and the right-side bending edge portion 11d (corresponding to the step δ). By performing this step δ, the toe-side joint 13 shown in fig. 1A, 1B, 2A, and 2B can be formed, and the toe portion of the upper 1 can be formed into a three-dimensional shape.
The joining method of the both curved edge portions 11c and 11d is not particularly limited. For example, a method of joining the two curved edge portions 11c and 11d by knitting a fabric for connecting the two curved edge portions 11c and 11d, and a method of directly joining the stitches of the two curved edge portions 11c and 11d by knitting may be cited. In the former case, the coils of the left-side bent edge portion 11c except the coils at the boundary side end portion are first moved to the boundary side, and the coils of the right-side bent edge portion 11d except the coils at the boundary side end portion are also moved to the boundary side. By this movement, a superimposed coil in which two coils at the boundary side end of the left-side bent edge portion 11c are superimposed and a superimposed coil in which two coils at the boundary side end of the right-side bent edge portion 11d are superimposed are formed. Then, two new stitches continuing in the wale direction of each of the two overlapped stitches are knitted. Then, the coil at the boundary end of the left bending edge portion 11c is overlapped on one new coil, and the coil at the boundary end of the right bending edge portion 11d and two new coils formed to be continuous with the pair of overlapped coils are overlapped on the other new coil until the coils at both bending edge portions 11c and 11d are eliminated. In the latter case, on the other hand, the coil at the boundary side end of the left-side bent edge portion 11c and the coil at the boundary side end of the right-side bent edge portion 11d may be directly overlapped with each other, and a new coil may be formed on the overlapped coils to join them.
The steps α to δ allow the shoe upper 1 of fig. 1A, 1B, 2A, and 2B to be knitted with a thick knitting structure while maintaining the three-dimensional shape of the heel-side portion and the toe-side portion, and at this time, the first thread L1 and the second thread L2 of the shoe upper 1 are not joined, and therefore, the following sewing step is performed.
[ Sewing procedure ]
In the sewing step (corresponding to step ∈ of the present invention), the first thread L1, which is a butt joint of the left side edge portion 11a and the right side edge portion 11b in the knitting width direction of the body fabric 11, and the second thread L2, which is a butt joint of the raised needle portion 10s of the heel fabric 10 folded in two, are joined by sewing. As a result, the upper 1 having the linear sewn portion 14 shown in fig. 1B can be completed.
Here, the first thread L1 and the second thread L2 to be sewn are arranged linearly as shown in fig. 2A and 2B. This is because the knitting width of the left side portion 11L and the right side portion 11R of the body portion 11 is adjusted. The sewing in a straight line can be easily performed without requiring special skill of the sewing operator, and therefore, the productivity of the upper 1 of this embodiment is excellent. In addition, in the shoe upper 1 of this example, since sewing for forming the shoe upper 1 into a three-dimensional shape is not required in the portion other than the sewn portion 14, this also improves the productivity of the shoe upper 1 of this example.
A reinforcing member or a decorative member may be attached to the upper 1 by sewing. Incidentally, the sewing of the reinforcing member and the decorative member is different from the sewing of the upper 1 in a three-dimensional shape.
[ Heat treatment Process ]
The sewed upper 1 is only needed to be embedded on the foot model for heat treatment. The thermal bonding yarn of the knitting yarn used for knitting the upper 1 is fused and bonded by heat treatment, whereby the upper 1 can be three-dimensionally shaped. The loops are fused and bonded by the heat-bonding yarn, and a firm upper 1 having appropriate flexibility is obtained.
[ other Processes ]
The heat-treated upper 1 is formed of a thick-walled knitted structure, and the shoe cover 2 is already integrated and can be used as it is. Of course, a decorative member, a reinforcing member, an inner liner, an outer sole, etc. may be attached to the upper 1. Since the upper 1 of this example has a three-dimensional shape that follows the shape of a foot, it is possible to easily attach a lining, an outsole, and the like.
Description of the reference numerals
1 shoe upper
2 sole cover 3 instep cover 4 shoe mouth
5 tongue 6 shoelace holes
10 heel fabric
10s raising part 10e and retracting part 10a left side edge part
10b right edge part
11 body fabric
11L left portion 11R right portion
11a left edge portion 11b right edge portion
11c left side bent edge portion 11d right side bent edge portion
13 toe side joint
First line L2 second line of 14 sewing parts L1

Claims (5)

1. An upper comprising a textile fabric having a sole cover covering all of a wearer's sole portion and an instep cover covering an instep portion of the wearer and forming a welt, the upper comprising: heel fabric, body fabric and tiptoe side joint,
the heel fabric is a fabric knitted so that a needle raising portion wider than a needle narrowing portion is arranged on the sole cover surface side in a state where a center in a knitting width direction thereof is folded in two and butted against each other, and the needle narrowing portion constitutes a part of the heel side of the cuff, thereby forming a shape surrounding a part of the wearer's achilles tendon to the heel;
the body fabric is woven continuously with a left side edge portion and a right side edge portion in a weaving width direction of the heel fabric, and constitutes a portion of the upper other than the heel fabric;
the toe-side joint portion is formed by joining an edge portion on a wale direction terminal end side of the body fabric close to a center side in a knitting width direction of the body fabric, and maintains a shape of a front end portion of the body fabric in a shape surrounding a toe of a wearer,
a first thread formed at a position of the shoe cover surface and abutting a left side edge portion and a right side edge portion of the shoe body fabric in a knitting width direction and a second thread formed by folding the needle raising portion of the heel fabric in two and abutting each other are formed in a straight line shape.
2. The upper according to claim 1 further comprising a sewn portion wherein said first thread and said second thread are sewn.
3. A method of manufacturing an upper that is knitted using a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds, the upper including a sole cover covering a sole portion of a wearer and an instep cover covering an instep portion of the wearer and forming a welt, the method comprising:
when the upper is divided into a heel fabric having a size reaching from a heel side part of the cuff to a heel side part of the mat and enclosing a part from an achilles tendon of a wearer to a heel and a body fabric constituting a part other than the heel fabric, the following processes are performed:
a step α of knitting the heel fabric having the set-up part wider than the set-down part;
a step β of starting knitting a left side portion of the body fabric continuously from a left side edge portion in the knitting width direction of the heel fabric, and starting knitting a right side portion of the body fabric continuously from a right side edge portion in the knitting width direction of the heel fabric;
a step γ of knitting the left side portion and the right side portion in a state of being arranged in the right and left direction on the needle bed, and forming the toe side of the body fabric into a pointed shape; and
a step delta of sequentially joining a left-side bending edge portion formed on the toe side of the left-side portion and a right-side bending edge portion formed on the toe side of the right-side portion from a boundary side therebetween,
in the step γ, after knitting the upper, when the heel fabric is folded in half at the center in the knitting width direction thereof and the left side portion and the right side portion of the body fabric are overlapped with each other in the thickness direction, the knitting width of the left side portion and the knitting width of the right side portion are adjusted so that a left side edge portion in the knitting width direction of the left side portion and a right side edge portion in the knitting width direction of the right side portion are linear.
4. The method of manufacturing an upper according to claim 3, wherein in step α, after the raising portion of the heel fabric is knitted, widening stitches are performed in at least two portions that sandwich a central portion in a knitting width direction, thereby increasing a knitting width of the heel fabric.
5. The method of manufacturing an upper according to claim 3 or 4, wherein a step ε of joining a first thread that joins a left edge portion and a right edge portion in a knitting width direction of the body fabric to each other and a second thread that joins the raised needle portion of the heel fabric to each other after folding in two is performed after the step δ.
CN201680034670.2A 2015-06-15 2016-06-03 Shoe upper and method for manufacturing shoe upper Expired - Fee Related CN107708467B (en)

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PCT/JP2016/066676 WO2016204002A1 (en) 2015-06-15 2016-06-03 Shoe upper and method for manufacturing shoe upper

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JP6419335B2 (en) 2018-11-07
US20180184755A1 (en) 2018-07-05
EP3308666B1 (en) 2020-02-26
EP3308666A4 (en) 2019-02-13
KR101954655B1 (en) 2019-03-06
KR20180011808A (en) 2018-02-02
JPWO2016204002A1 (en) 2017-11-30
WO2016204002A1 (en) 2016-12-22
TW201701789A (en) 2017-01-16
EP3308666A1 (en) 2018-04-18

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