CN107153056A - A kind of method that the softening time is determined during hair-waving - Google Patents
A kind of method that the softening time is determined during hair-waving Download PDFInfo
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- CN107153056A CN107153056A CN201710398930.0A CN201710398930A CN107153056A CN 107153056 A CN107153056 A CN 107153056A CN 201710398930 A CN201710398930 A CN 201710398930A CN 107153056 A CN107153056 A CN 107153056A
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- G01N21/62—Systems in which the material investigated is excited whereby it emits light or causes a change in wavelength of the incident light
- G01N21/63—Systems in which the material investigated is excited whereby it emits light or causes a change in wavelength of the incident light optically excited
- G01N21/65—Raman scattering
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of method that the softening time is determined during hair-waving, belong to make-up and beauty field.The present invention is detected with Raman spectrum detection method to the hair in oxidizing process, and hair intensity according to actual needs and washable number of times, it is determined that the disulfide bond content of required hair, so as to determine the optimal duration of hair-waving according to the relation between disulfide bond content and hair software time, to reduce harm of the agent for permanent hair waving to human body.The calculation formula that the present invention is provided has with experimental data preferably to be suited, and actual hair-waving process can be instructed well.
Description
Technical field
It is especially a kind of using Raman spectrum detection the present invention relates to a kind of method that the softening time is determined during hair-waving
Method to determine the softening time is detected to disulfide bonds degree during hair-waving, belongs to make-up and beauty field.
Background technology
Hairdressing cosmetic has the effect for changing hair degree of crook, is commonly called as agent for permanent hair waving.After reform and opening-up, the think of of people
Expect liberation, hair-waving turns into new trend, China has also released one after another various types of agent for permanent hair waving, makes the agent for permanent hair waving city of China
Yield unusually brilliant results field.
Agent for permanent hair waving has two kinds of chemical property, is belonging respectively to reducing agent and oxidant.The main component of hair is keratin, its
Middle cystine is higher, there is disulfide bond (- S-S-) in cystine molecule, is running into reducing agent (commonly referred to as softening agent)
When, disulfide bond can disconnect, and form cysteine.At this moment hair can become submissive, can be by curly headed into various forms.But this
When hair style do not fix also, easily reduction therefore also uses a kind of oxidant after curly headed, the disulfide bond of fracture is closed again,
Cysteine molecule is set to be restructured as cystine molecule.The hair style so obtained can just keep not straightening for a long time.
Current agent for permanent hair waving is mainly ammonia type compound agent for permanent hair waving, TGA class agent for permanent hair waving, the hair-waving of thioglycolic acid esters
Agent and various thio-compounds agent for permanent hair waving.According to expert, TGA class agent for permanent hair waving is not only irritant, anaphylaxis, and
Hemopoietic system may be destroyed, more serious can also induce the diseases such as carcinoma of urinary bladder, breast cancer, lymph cancer and leukaemia.In hair-waving
During, agent for permanent hair waving can contact skin unavoidably, and the time is longer, and the harm to hair and body is bigger.But general scald
It is all that, according to tonsorial micro-judgment, the time is too short, and perm style-setting is bad to send out duration；Overlong time, agent for permanent hair waving is to body
Harm is bigger, and the damage to hair is more serious.At present to the use time of softening agent, mainly by micro-judgment, so meeting
There is the phenomenon that hair is straightened quickly scalded, or the situation that hair quality is badly damaged.
In numerous detection methods, X-ray diffraction, NMR, Raman, infrared spectrum may serve to the keratin to hair
Fiber measures description.But X-ray diffraction detection is only able to detect crystal structure high in keratin, cannot get keratin
The information of middle cortex and cuticula；NMR sensitivity is relatively low, the cortex information cannot with hierarchy.
The content of the invention
The present invention is that hair is detected using Raman spectrum detection method, analyzes disulfide bond (- S- during hair-waving
S- content situation), Cystine Reduction of the hair dye to hair is observed that according to resulting disulfide bond (- S-S-) content
Degree, reacts the complete time so as to obtain cystine, that is, the time required for hair softening.
Specifically, the method that the hair-waving process that the present invention is provided determines the softening time, comprises the following steps：
Step (1)：Determine the disulfide bond content of hair in hair softening process；
Step (2)：The washable number of times of the hair after hair-waving according to actual needs, break preceding maximum load, convolution
(1) disulfide bond content of hair when, (2), (3) determine to stop softening, that is, determine to stop the opportunity of softening hair；
Y=-1447.6x+659.44 (1)
In formula (1), x represents disulfide bond content, and y represents washable number of times；
Y=3.7912x+0.8162 (x>0.37), (2)
Y=9.6154x-1.2592 (x<0.37) (3)
X represents disulfide bond content in formula (2), (3), and y is represented and broken preceding maximum load.
The disulfide bond content is the ratio of the S -- S peak area and c h bond peak area determined using Raman spectroscopy, S-
S keys go out peak position for 470~560cm-1, it is 1450cm that c h bond, which goes out peak position,-1Near.
The washable number of times of the hair, refers to wash hair with shampoo daily, dries naturally, until hair recovers to scald
The washing times of preceding straight hair state.
Soften hair and use common hair softening agent, containing reducing substances, for open the disulfide bond in hair (-
S-S-), main component hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, 16/18 alcohol, oleyl alcohol ether -15, TGA, MEA, second two
The sodium of amine tetraacethyl four, polyquaternium 28, essence, deionized water.
The present invention also provides a kind of method for permanent waving hair, including opens the disulfide bond (- S-S-) in hair, side using agent for permanent hair waving A
Just the change of curly headed degree；The disulfide bond (- S-S-) being opened in hair is closed using agent for permanent hair waving B, makes the curved of hair
Qu Chengdu immobilizes, and wherein agent for permanent hair waving A processing time determines the method for softening time to determine according to foregoing hair-waving process.
The present invention is detected with Raman spectrum detection method to the hair in oxidizing process, can obtain disulfide bonds journey
The information of degree, it has been found that disulfide bond content is higher, the retention time of curly headed degree is longer, is got over while hair intensity declines
Greatly.Based on this, our hair intensity according to actual needs and washable number of times, and hair disulfide bond content and hair intensity and
Relation between washable number of times, in the softening process of hair, hair intensity and corresponding two sulphur of washable number of times needed for reaching
During linkage content, stop softening, obtain expected hair-waving effect, agent for permanent hair waving is reduced as far as possible in residence time on head, boiling hot to reduce
Send out harm of the agent to human body.The calculation formula that the present invention is provided has with experimental data preferably to be suited, and reality can be instructed well
Hair-waving process.
Brief description of the drawings
The Raman spectrogram of Fig. 1 hairs, abscissa A：Wavelength, ordinate B：Hair intensity (N).
Embodiment
Embodiment 1
Take the long hair of 1 Asia women as experiment material, it is grouped, be divided into 10 groups, every group of about 30 heads
Hair.This 10 groups of hairs are washed with deionized, dries, is reacted with agent for permanent hair waving A naturally, one group of sample are taken out within every 5 minutes
Record the time tn, cool down, be washed with deionized.After washing, 10 hairs are therefrom taken to determine disulfide bond content, remaining 20 heads
Hair carries out oxidation processes with agent for permanent hair waving B, and oxidation reaction 10min is washed with deionized, dried naturally, before test hair is broken
Maximum load (N, i.e. hair intensity), is then washed with shampoo, dried daily, and observation still keeps crimping, scalded without recovery
The time (i.e. washable number of times) of preceding straight hair state.In agent for permanent hair waving A containing hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, 16/18 alcohol, oleyl alcohol ether-
15th, TGA, MEA, tetrasodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate, polyquaternium 28, essence, deionized water.It is main in agent for permanent hair waving B
Composition is dioxygen milk.
The measure of disulfide bond content：10 hairs are taken, 60min, hair are washed with 0.5wt% sodium dodecyl sulfate solutions
It is 1 with 0.5wt% sodium dodecyl sulfate solutions mass ratio:60.It is washed with deionized again, dries and cut into slices naturally, it is thick
Degree is about 0.01mm, and every hair at least cuts 3 parts of samples, it is detected with Raman, and optical maser wavelength is 787nm.1~10 group of two sulphur
Linkage content is designated as S respectively1—S10.It is S -- S peak area divided by c h bond peak area to provide disulfide bond content S, and S -- S goes out peak position
It is set to 470~560cm-1, it is 1450cm that c h bond, which goes out peak position,-1Near.
The measure of maximum load is using the test method in material physical property tension test before test hair is broken.
Hair disulfide bond content S, hair intensity (N), the washable number of times of hair and the specific data of agent for permanent hair waving A agent processing times
It is as shown in table 1 below.
Table 1
From experimental data as can be seen that disulfide bond content S and the relation of the retention time of curly headed degree meet relation
Formula (1)：
Y=-1447.6x+659.44 (1)
In formula (1), x represents disulfide bond content, and y represents washable number of times；
Relational expression between disulfide bond content and hair intensity meets formula (2), (3)：
Y=3.7912x+0.8162 (x>0.37), (2)
Y=9.6154x-1.2592 (x<0.37) (3)
X represents disulfide bond content in formula (2), (3), and y represents hair intensity, it can be seen that when the content of disulfide bond is less than
When 0.37, hair intensity can be deteriorated rapidly.
During actual hair-waving, can according to the different demands between hair intensity and washable number of times, during hair-waving,
The content of hair disulfide bond is monitored by Raman spectroscopy, when reaching that target hair intensity, the corresponding disulfide bond of washable number of times contains
During amount, stop softening so that possessed it is anticipated that hair intensity, the hair-waving effect of washable number of times.
Although the present invention is disclosed as above with preferred embodiment, it is not limited to the present invention, any to be familiar with this skill
The people of art, without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, can do various changes and modification, therefore the protection model of the present invention
Enclose being defined of being defined by claims.
Claims (6)
1. the method for softening time is determined during a kind of hair-waving, it is characterised in that comprise the following steps：
Step (1)：Determine the disulfide bond content of hair in hair softening process；
Step (2)：The washable number of times of the hair after hair-waving according to actual needs, break preceding maximum load, convolution (1),
(2) disulfide bond content of hair when, (3) determine to stop softening, that is, determine to stop the opportunity of softening hair；
Y=-1447.6x+659.44 (1)
In formula (1), x represents disulfide bond content, and y represents washable number of times；
Y=3.7912x+0.8162 (x>0.37), (2)
Y=9.6154x-1.2592 (x<0.37) (3)
X represents disulfide bond content in formula (2), (3), and y is represented and broken preceding maximum load.
2. the method for softening time is determined during a kind of hair-waving according to claim 1, it is characterised in that two sulphur
Linkage content is the ratio of the S -- S peak area and c h bond peak area determined using Raman spectroscopy, and it is 470 that S -- S, which goes out peak position,
~560cm-1, it is 1450cm that c h bond, which goes out peak position,-1Near.
3. the method for softening time is determined during a kind of hair-waving according to claim 1 or 2, it is characterised in that described
The washable number of times of hair, refers to wash hair with shampoo daily, dries naturally, until hair recovers straight hair state before scalding
Washing times.
4. the method for softening time is determined during a kind of hair-waving according to claim 1, it is characterised in that softening hair
Reagent be material containing reducing substances, for opening the disulfide bond (- S-S-) in hair.
5. the method for softening time is determined during a kind of hair-waving according to claim 4, it is characterised in that softening hair
The main component hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride of reagent, 16/18 alcohol, oleyl alcohol ether -15, TGA, MEA, second
The sodium of ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) four, polyquaternium 28, essence, deionized water.
6. a kind of method for permanent waving hair, it is characterised in that including opening the disulfide bond (- S-S-) in hair, facilitate curly headed degree
Change；The disulfide bond (- S-S-) being opened in hair is closed again, the degree of crook of hair is immobilized, wherein opening
The time of disulfide bond (- S-S-) in hair determines according to any methods described of Claims 1 to 5.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201710398930.0A CN107153056B (en) | 2017-05-31 | 2017-05-31 | A kind of method that hair-waving determines the softening time in the process |
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| CN201710398930.0A CN107153056B (en) | 2017-05-31 | 2017-05-31 | A kind of method that hair-waving determines the softening time in the process |
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| CN107153056A true CN107153056A (en) | 2017-09-12 |
| CN107153056B CN107153056B (en) | 2019-05-14 |
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Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1395475A (en) * | 2000-01-19 | 2003-02-05 | 法伊鲁特股份有限公司 | Improved hair styling method |
| JP2007084491A (en) * | 2005-09-22 | 2007-04-05 | Takara Belmont Co Ltd | Method for permanent waving treatment and permanent waving composition |
| CN101351135A (en) * | 2006-08-08 | 2009-01-21 | 宝贝蒙株式会社 | Permanent wave treatment method and device |
| JP2016034304A (en) * | 2014-08-01 | 2016-03-17 | タカラベルモント株式会社 | Permanent wave processing method |
-
2017
- 2017-05-31 CN CN201710398930.0A patent/CN107153056B/en active Active
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1395475A (en) * | 2000-01-19 | 2003-02-05 | 法伊鲁特股份有限公司 | Improved hair styling method |
| JP2007084491A (en) * | 2005-09-22 | 2007-04-05 | Takara Belmont Co Ltd | Method for permanent waving treatment and permanent waving composition |
| CN101351135A (en) * | 2006-08-08 | 2009-01-21 | 宝贝蒙株式会社 | Permanent wave treatment method and device |
| JP2016034304A (en) * | 2014-08-01 | 2016-03-17 | タカラベルモント株式会社 | Permanent wave processing method |
Non-Patent Citations (4)
| Title |
|---|
| AKIO KUZUHARA: "Internal structure changes in bleached black human hair resulting from chemical treatments: A Raman spectroscopic investigation", 《JOURNAL OF MOLECULAR STRUCTURE》 * |
| SATOSHI OGAWA ET AL.: "Action of thioglycolic acid and L-cysteine to disulfide cross-links in hair fibers during permanent waving treatment", 《SEN’I GAKKAISHI》 * |
| 肖学良 等: "毛发纤维水响应形状记忆性能的探索", 《服装学报》 * |
| 黄燕飞 等: "L-半胱氨酸与L-胱氨酸间相互转化的拉曼光谱研究", 《应用化工》 * |
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| CN107153056B (en) | 2019-05-14 |
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Effective date of registration: 20201010 Address after: Ding Shu Zhen Shuang Miao Cun, Dapu of Yixing city 214200 Jiangsu city of Wuxi Province Patentee after: JIANGSU XINYU BIO-TECH Co.,Ltd. Address before: 1800 No. 214122 Jiangsu city of Wuxi Province Li Lake Avenue Patentee before: Jiangnan University |
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Effective date of registration: 20220714 Address after: 113000 innovation building, Petrochemical new town, Dongzhou District, Fushun City, Liaoning Province Patentee after: Liaoning Xinyu Biotechnology Co.,Ltd. Address before: 214200 Shuangmiao Village, Dingshu Town, Yixing City, Jiangsu Province Patentee before: JIANGSU XINYU BIO-TECH CO.,LTD. |
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