CN107059429B - A kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method using natural dye dying - Google Patents
A kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method using natural dye dying Download PDFInfo
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- CN107059429B CN107059429B CN201710116103.8A CN201710116103A CN107059429B CN 107059429 B CN107059429 B CN 107059429B CN 201710116103 A CN201710116103 A CN 201710116103A CN 107059429 B CN107059429 B CN 107059429B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/34—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using natural dyestuffs
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/445—Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/655—Compounds containing ammonium groups
- D06P1/66—Compounds containing ammonium groups containing quaternary ammonium groups
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
- D06P5/04—After-treatment with organic compounds
- D06P5/06—After-treatment with organic compounds containing nitrogen
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Abstract
A kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method using natural dye dying, its step are as follows: 1) fiber uses double-active radical modifier modification；2) configure and screen natural dye combination, the single natural dye dying of modified fibre；3) it by the fiber blended color after each natural dye dying, and spins.4) it using single active group color fixing agent fixation, then washes.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to fiber or yarn dyeing field, specifically a kind of high color fastness using natural dye dying
Whole chromatogram yarn preparation method.
Background technique
Synthetic dyestuffs are widely used with its colorful color and excellent dyefastness, however synthetic dyestuffs are in work
Very big pollution is caused in industry production process to environment, some synthetic dyestuffs have certain harm to human health.Europe in recent years
" green barrier " is constantly arranged to textile in continent, and dyestuff, auxiliary agent and the other chemicals range of disabling constantly expand, such as: Europe
Most important Oeko-tex standard 100 and REACH regulation bring very big shadow to the outlet of China's textile and clothing industry
It rings.Under the influence of global environmentally protective tide, natural plants dye the visual field for returning to people again.Natural dye has life
State balance characteristic: it is highly-safe, nontoxic, natural in color is bright-coloured, there are certain nutritive value and medicine healthy sofa effect, such as anti-
Bacterium, anti-inflammatory, clearing damp, deodorization, blood-activating and qi-promoting.And natural dye is free from environmental pollution, manufacturing condition is mild, provides for biorenewable
Source, no three wastes handle problem, it is sufficient to dyestuff circle be caused to be paid close attention to again.
Natural dye can be divided into vegetable colour, animal dye and mineral dye according to source, wherein based on vegetable colour.
The country such as India, Bangladesh, Japan, South Korea, the U.S., Italy and China is all dyed and is obtained using vegetable colour in succession
Some achievements carry out ultrasound to cotton fabric for example, Jett S etc. uses a kind of leaf of Indian plant chinaberry as natural dye
Wave dyeing；Taekyeong Kim etc. is by using native compounds such as ascorbic acid, gallic acid, tea polyphenols to natural dye
Light fastness promotion studied, improve the light fastness of natural dye to 1 grade or so.In China, Beijing Bronze Ox is spun
It knits Co., Ltd and is proposed " bronze medal ox " the serial children's garment dyed using natural plant dye；Three maos of Jiangsu group also appliable plant
Dyestuff prepares the beautiful environment protecting high-grade fabric of high Zhi Tiansu, and effect is preferable；The state that Hai Lan group and textile college, Donghua University undertake
Family's " 863 " advanced technological hem-" natural dye preparation and its application in ecological textile exploitation and wool clean manufacturing
Technology " promotes natural dye dying to industrialized development.Some dyestuff companies of the country such as India, Italy and Germany at present
All in development and production natural plant dye.
Natural dye in textile dyeing there is also some main problems:
1. dyeing poor repeatability.The common natural dye overwhelming majority is vegetable colour, even same plant, due to
Place of production difference, weather conditions difference and acquisition time difference can all influence the composition and color of pigment, and this inevitably results in dye
The dyeing poor repeatability of material.Although the tone of contaminated fiber can be regulated and controled by using different mordants, the weight of dyeing
Existing property is still very poor.
2. it is poor to spell dye compatibility.From the point of view of application class, natural dye uneven class size is big, and chromatography is not complete, such as main
Blue be it is indigo, belong to reducing dye, and other natural plant dyes largely belong to direct dyes, are difficult to look for from structure
To generic natural dye three-primary colours, thus various colors cannot be obtained as drawing a design normal dyeing.Therefore in the market
Natural dye dying product only contaminates its true qualities, seldom colorant match.
3. poor color fastness lacks corresponding high color fastness ecological dyeing technology.It is intrinsic due to natural dye chromophoric group
Unstability, lead to that natural dye is washable and fastness to light is poor, although in natural dye dying, using mordant dyeing and it is certain after
Dyefastness can be improved in processing, and traditional mordant contains heavy metal ion mostly, many to be put into ecological textile institute
The list of disabling.
Fiber is first dyed and is spinned afterwards, and spinnability is greatly reduced.In order to obtain certain dye level, before stock-dye usually
Pre-treatment is carried out, pre-treatment can destroy the wax on raw cotton, and cotton fiber hydrophily is strong, and spinning easily plays cotton knot, it is necessary to be added fluffy
Loose agent etc. improves spinnability.It is lower if without pre-treatment dye level.In addition, using natural dye mordant dyeing, dyeing
Bigger to fibre damage afterwards, spinnability is worse.Therefore, natural dye dying in the market is both for yarn and textile dyeing,
It is rarely used in stock-dye.
Based on above situation, it is believed that the exploitation of natural plant dye dyed yarn still suffers from many practical applications
Problem is difficult the development prospect for having big in conventional yarn and textile dyeing field.
Summary of the invention
The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to overcome the problems of the above-mentioned prior art, provide a kind of using natural
The high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method of dyeing, effectively to avoid natural dye dying poor reproducibility, color fastness is low,
The not congruent problem of chromatography.
For this purpose, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme that: a kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn using natural dye dying
Line preparation method, its step are as follows:
1) fiber uses double-active radical modifier modification；
2) configure and screen natural dye combination, the single natural dye dying of modified fibre；
3) it by the fiber blended color after each natural dye dying, and spins.
4) it using single active group color fixing agent fixation, then washes.
Furtherly, the double-active radical modifying agent includes bis- (2,3- glycidyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) ethylene, dual-active
Property base amount of modifier be fibre weight 1~6%.Modified fibre dyeing is compared with conventional fibre dyeing, modified fibre dyeing
When without using the chemicals such as other a large amount of auxiliary agents and softening agent, do not influence the spinnability of fiber, cause fiber strength damage small,
Yarn quality is good.
Furtherly, the natural dye is configured according to color, and the configuration of color colour system includes following a kind of or more
Kind is combined, and the red colour system source of natural dye includes madder, mulberries, and yellow class source includes cape jasmine, ginger, blue series source packet
Indigo plant, woaded blue are included, brown system source includes chestnut shell, dye yam.Each colour system is that natural dye respectively dyes modified fibre, is not necessarily to
Add other auxiliary agents.
Furtherly, the spinning process directly includes fiber mixing, cotton carding, drawing-off, rove, spun yarn；Three are needed when spinning
Road and the above carding step are together with drawing frame and the above drafting.It is modified fine after dyeing without adding leavening agent when spinning
Dimension encloses the hydroxyl of fiber surface, makes the frictional decrease between fiber, spinnability enhancing, spin tri- or more Shi Xu
Carding step is together with drawing frame and the above drafting, to guarantee colour mixture uniformity.
Furtherly, various colors are obtained by the combination and ratio of monochromatic fiber after adjusting dyeing when fiber mixes, or
Being mixed into true qualities raw cotton fiber reduces color depth.
Furtherly, the color fixing agent and fibre modifier that the fixation uses are homologues, are all glycidyl methyl chlorides
Change the substance of ammonium, but color fixing agent is to act on using single active group, predominantly 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylchloride chloride as closing
The anion of dyestuff improves color fastness, and dosage is the 0.1-1% of fibre weight, determines depending on color depth and colored component accounting
It is fixed.
Furtherly, red colour system selects mulberries pigment dyeing technique as follows, mulberries pigment 10% (o.w.f)；90 DEG C of temperature；
Soaking time 60min；Bath raio 1:10；Fiber room temperature enters dye, and 2 DEG C/min of heating rate is warming up to 90 DEG C, keeps the temperature 60mim.
Furtherly, blue series select indigo plant pigment dyeing technique as follows, indigo plant pigment 10% (o.w.f)；Caustic soda 3%
(o.w.f)；Sodium hydrosulfite 3% (o.w.f)；40 DEG C of temperature；Time 30min；Bath raio 1:10；First add caustic soda in indigo plant, stirs, then plus
Sodium hydrosulfite, stirring, 2 DEG C/min of heating rate are warming up to 40 DEG C, keep the temperature 30min, then take out, aoxidize in air.
Furtherly, brown system selects Chestnut shell pigment dyeing as follows, Chestnut shell pigment 20% (o.w.f)；Temperature
90℃；Time 60min；Bath raio 1:10；Room temperature enters dye, and 2 DEG C/min of heating rate is warming up to 90 DEG C, keeps the temperature 60mim.
Compared with existing natural dye colorant match produces polychrome color yarn, the invention has the following advantages that
1) method for " fibre modification, the yarn fixation " that the present invention develops, by double-active radical modifier modification to fiber
It is modified, realize natural dyeing without mordant dyeing color, and few to fibre damage, dye-uptake is high.Rear enclosed sun is contaminated on natural dye
Ionic group keeps fiber more fluffy, improves spinnability, equally collects using single active group color fixing agent closing is water-soluble after resultant yarn
Group, in the case where not increasing chemical composition, further improves dyefastness, realizes the system of natural dye dyeing yarn
It is standby.
2) compared with conventional method, the present invention is able to achieve the preparation of whole chromatogram yarn and without dyestuff colorant match.Due to natural dye
Chromatography is not complete, and generic natural dye three-primary colours are difficult to find that from structure, so that dyeing colorant match is difficult to color.This hair
The bright method dyed respectively using fiber in colour mixture colorant match efficiently solves the defect of natural dye itself.
3) compared with conventional method, yarn produced by the invention is environmentally friendly, color fastness is high.Changed using double-active radical modifier modification
Property cotton fiber, be not used mordant, ecological, environmental protective.Since each natural dye dyes respectively, what is used is all its optimum dyeing work
Skill, and color fastness relatively high dyestuff of the dyestuff by screening, therefore the yarn color fastness produced is higher than traditional handicraft.
4) compared with conventional method, the present invention is few using auxiliary agent, in whole process, helps only with a kind of glycidyl ammonium chloride
Agent, in different processes, respectively as fibre modifier, spinning leavening agent, yarn dyeing color fixing agent.
Specific embodiment
Technical solution of the present invention is described by the following examples.It is whole after binding fiber pretreatment technology and yarn of the present invention
Reason technology, the quality of yarn is more.
Embodiment 1
Pan Tongse TCX17-1612 (L*=48, a*=25, b*=-3) purified cotton yarns the preparation method is as follows:
1) fibre modification: taking double-active radical modifier modification and adds water, and double-active radical modifier modification is fibre weight
2%；Fiber and double-active radical modifier modification bath raio 1:10, temperature: 95 DEG C, soaking time: 30min.
2) configuration is screened natural dye and is dyed, and red colour system selects mulberries pigment, and blue series select indigo plant pigment, brown system
Select Chestnut shell pigment.
1. red colour system selects mulberries pigment dyeing technique
Fiber room temperature enters dye, and 2 DEG C/min of heating rate is warming up to 90 DEG C, keeps the temperature 60mim.
2. blue series select indigo plant pigment dyeing technique
In indigo plant first plus caustic soda, stirring, then plus sodium hydrosulfite, stirring, 2 DEG C/min of heating rate be warming up to 40 DEG C, heat preservation
30min then takes out, and aoxidizes in air.
3. brown system selects Chestnut shell pigment dyeing
Room temperature enters dye, and 2 DEG C/min of heating rate is warming up to 90 DEG C, keeps the temperature 60mim.
3) blended colour yarn dyes mulberries pigment dyeing fiber, indigo plant pigment dyeing fiber, the lac pigment after dyeing fine
Dimension is mixed with the ratio of 64.60:6.10:29.30, by three carding steps, is spun through one of drafting of drawing frame by drawing-off
At rove, then twist into the spun yarn of different numbers.Measure L*=48.88, a*=23.76, b*=-2.32.The measurement strip of color value
Part: using Color-Eye 7000A, and D65 light source includes mirror-reflection, large aperture.L*Represent brightness, a*,b*For coloration.
4) single active group color fixing agent, is then washed.It takes single active group color fixing agent, NON IONIC SOFTNER and adds water, single activity
Base color fixing agent is the 1% of fibre weight, and NON IONIC SOFTNER is the 3% of fibre weight；Bath raio 1:5, temperature: 80 DEG C, when immersion
Between: 10min, after dry, 60 DEG C of warm water are washed one time, and 10 DEG C -20 DEG C are washed one time.
5) measure of merit
Table 1: it is expected that technical indicator
2: Pan Tongse TCX16-1324 (L of embodiment*=66, a*=4, b*=26) natural dye dying cotton/viscous 50/50
Compared with mixed yarn the preparation method is as follows:
1) fibre modification: taking double-active radical modifier modification and adds water, and double-active radical modifier modification is fibre weight
2%；Fiber and double-active radical modifier modification bath raio 1:10, temperature: 95 DEG C, soaking time: 30min.
2) configuration screening and is dyed natural dye, yellow class select Gardenia Yellow and ginger pigment and true qualities raw cotton fiber,
True qualities viscose rayon.
1. yellow class selects Chestnut shell pigment dyeing；
Room temperature enters dye, and 2 DEG C/min of heating rate is warming up to 90 DEG C, keeps the temperature 60mim.
2. yellow class selects plate ginger pigment dyeing technique
Room temperature enters dye, and 2 DEG C/min of heating rate is warming up to 60 DEG C, keeps the temperature 60mim.
3) blended colour yarn, by Gardenia Yellow coloured fibre, ginger pigment dyeing fiber, raw cotton fiber, true qualities viscose rayon
With mass ratio 14.40:32.50:3.20:50 mixing, by three carding steps, spun through one of drafting of drawing frame by drawing-off
At rove, then twist into the spun yarn of different numbers.Colour examining L*=65.91, a*=4.08, b*=26.63.The measurement strip of color value
Part: using Color-Eye 7000A, and D65 light source includes mirror-reflection, large aperture.
4) single active group color fixing agent, is then washed.It takes single active group color fixing agent, NON IONIC SOFTNER and adds water, single activity
Base color fixing agent is the 1% of fibre weight, and NON IONIC SOFTNER is the 3% of fibre weight；Bath raio 1:5, temperature: 80 DEG C, when immersion
Between: 10min, after dry, 60 DEG C of warm water are washed one time, and 10 DEG C -20 DEG C are washed one time.
5) measure of merit
Table 2: it is expected that technical indicator
Claims (6)
1. a kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method using natural dye dying, its step are as follows:
1) fiber uses double-active radical modifier modification；
2) configure and screen natural dye combination, the single natural dye dying of modified fibre；
3) it by the fiber blended color after each natural dye dying, and spins；
4) it using single active group color fixing agent fixation, then washes；
The double-active radical modifying agent includes bis- (2,3- glycidyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) ethylene, double-active radical amount of modifier
It is the 1~6% of fibre weight, fiber and double-active radical modifier modification bath raio 1:10, temperature: 90-95 DEG C, soaking time:
30min；
The list active group color fixing agent and double-active radical modifying agent are all the substances with glycidyl ammonio methacrylate, but single activity
Base color fixing agent is single active group, including 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylchloride chloride；Single active group color fixing agent dosage is fibre weight
0.1-1%.
2. a kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method using natural dye dying according to claim 1,
It being characterized in that, the natural dye is configured according to color, and the configuration of color colour system is combined including one or more as follows,
The red colour system source of natural dye includes madder color, mulberries pigment, and yellow class source includes gardenin, ginger pigment, blue
It is source include indigo plant pigment, woaded blue pigment, brown system source includes Chestnut shell pigment, dye yam pigment.
3. a kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method using natural dye dying according to claim 1,
It is characterized in that, the spinning process directly includes fiber mixing, cotton carding, drawing-off, rove, spun yarn；Spin tri- or more Shi Xu
Carding step is together with drawing frame and the above drafting.
4. a kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method using natural dye dying according to claim 2,
It being characterized in that, red colour system selects mulberries pigment dyeing technique as follows,
Fiber room temperature enters dye, and 2 DEG C/min of heating rate is warming up to 90 DEG C, keeps the temperature 60min.
5. a kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method using natural dye dying according to claim 2,
It being characterized in that, blue series select indigo plant pigment dyeing technique as follows,
In indigo plant first plus caustic soda, stirring, then plus sodium hydrosulfite, stirring, 2 DEG C/min of heating rate be warming up to 40 DEG C, keep the temperature 30min,
It then takes out, is aoxidized in air.
6. a kind of high color fastness whole chromatogram yarn preparation method using natural dye dying according to claim 2,
It being characterized in that, brown system selects Chestnut shell pigment dyeing as follows,
Room temperature enters dye, and 2 DEG C/min of heating rate is warming up to 90 DEG C, keeps the temperature 60min.
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| CN108149493A (en) * | 2017-12-29 | 2018-06-12 | 罗莱生活科技股份有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of granatum dyestuff and the purposes of granatum dyestuff |
| CN111058133A (en) * | 2019-11-29 | 2020-04-24 | 南通天虹银海实业有限公司 | Preparation method of ecological skin-friendly antibacterial color-spun knitted high count yarn |
| CN110983836A (en) * | 2019-12-18 | 2020-04-10 | 北京光华纺织集团有限公司 | Purple plant dye dyed cotton yarn and fabric |
| CN110939000A (en) * | 2019-12-18 | 2020-03-31 | 北京光华纺织集团有限公司 | Cotton yarn dyed by grey plant dye and fabric |
| CN112195667A (en) * | 2020-09-22 | 2021-01-08 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Process for on-line mordant dyeing of yarn by vegetable dye |
| CN114381951B (en) * | 2020-10-22 | 2023-10-03 | 苏州中纺学面料产业研究院 | Preparation method of natural antibacterial yarn, natural antibacterial yarn and fabric |
| CN115538193B (en) * | 2022-11-12 | 2024-01-02 | 无锡夏利达漂染有限公司 | Preparation method of high-color-fastness cotton yarn dyed by natural dye |
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