CN106659671B

CN106659671B - Composition in the form of an emulsion

Info

Publication number: CN106659671B
Application number: CN201480080269.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 栾途; 汪艳
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2014-06-30
Filing date: 2014-06-30
Publication date: 2021-11-16
Anticipated expiration: 2034-06-30
Also published as: CN106659671A; WO2016000145A1

Abstract

There is provided a composition in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one fatty phase, at least one aqueous phase and a) a combination of at least two surfactants selected from: i) c₈‑C₂₂Alkyl dimethicone copolyol; ii) a dimethicone copolyol different from i); iii) a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer different from i) or ii); iv) or mixtures thereof; b) at least one third surfactant different from surfactant a) selected from polydialkylsiloxanes comprising polyglycerols or side and/or end groups of glycerine; and c) at least one UV filter.

Description

Composition in the form of an emulsion

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for caring for/making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips, and more particularly a cosmetic composition of the emulsion type, which exhibits an optimized rinsability effect and, at the same time, is capable of protecting the keratin materials from the harmful effects caused by the sun.

Background

Keratin materials such as skin, scalp and hair are constantly exposed to a number of harmful environmental agents including UV radiation, air pollutants such as ozone and ionizing radiation, which produce Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), wherein exposure to the sun has created a number of harmful problems with keratin materials such as sunburn and aging caused by UV rays and pro-oxidants.

UVB rays (having short wavelengths and being highly energy intensive) are responsible for sunburn of the skin. UVA radiation is less energy intensive than UVB radiation, but the amount is 20 times greater than UVB radiation.

Thus, the deleterious effect of UV light on keratin materials affects the cellular respiration of these keratin materials and causes accelerated aging of the skin, resulting in dull skin tone and premature formation of wrinkles and fine lines, and a reduction in hair strength also resulting in a dull appearance. In addition, UV rays can cause irritation and allergic phenomena as well as inflammation on the skin.

In order to combat UV radiation, various compositions comprising UV filters are described. However, there remains a need for new compositions for protecting keratin materials from the harmful effects caused by exposure to the sun, which compositions have the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, and improved antioxidant effects and are stable over time.

However, in order to have the required protection against UV rays, i.e. high SPF and PPD values, high amounts of organic or inorganic UV filters are required in conventional products. Removal of the product itself is time consuming and inconvenient. Furthermore, consumers often feel greasy residues remaining on the skin even after use of makeup remover.

Thus, there remains a need to find stable care and/or make-up products which exhibit an optimized water washability effect and at the same time have a good UV protection effect on keratin materials.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

Such a composition can be obtained using: a combination of at least two surfactants selected from the group consisting of: c₈-C₂₂An alkyl dimethicone copolyol, a dimethicone copolyol different from the dimethicone copolyol described above, and/or a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer different from the dimethicone copolyol described above, at least one third surfactant different from the combination of the surfactants described above, and at least one UV filter.

Thus, according to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one fatty phase, and at least one aqueous phase, and:

a) a combination of at least two surfactants selected from the group consisting of:

i)C₈-C₂₂alkyl dimethicone copolyol;

ii) a dimethicone copolyol different from i);

iii) a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer different from i) or ii);

iv) or mixtures thereof;

b) at least one third surfactant different from surfactant a) selected from polydialkylsiloxanes comprising polyglycerols or side and/or end groups of glycerine; and

c) at least one UV filter.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a multiple emulsion, such as a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one additional surfactant different from surfactants a) and b).

In another preferred embodiment, the present invention comprises at least one inorganic or organic, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, treated or untreated pigment.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention comprises at least one polymeric or mineral thickener, preferably selected from hydrophilic thickeners, lipophilic thickeners or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the thickener is selected from polysaccharide biopolymers, lipophilic clays, hydrophobic silicas or mixtures thereof, more preferably, the thickener is selected from xanthan gum, disteardimonium hectorite (disteardimonium hectorite), silica silylate (silica silicate) or mixtures thereof.

In another aspect, the invention also relates to a method for caring for/making up the skin, in particular the face, characterized in that it comprises applying to the skin at least one composition according to the invention.

The present invention as described above is stable over time at room temperature (25 ℃), for example after storage for 2 months and further for example after storage for 4 months.

The present invention provides good UV protection on the skin.

More importantly, the present invention has properties of optimized water washability.

When pigments are present, the compositions of the present invention advantageously have good cosmetic effects on the skin, such as uniform coverage and long-lasting effect.

"rinsability" is intended to mean the rinsability of the present composition when rinsed off the skin with water.

Detailed Description

According to the invention, the composition in the form of an emulsion comprises at least one fatty phase, at least one aqueous phase, and:

i)C₈-C₂₂alkyl dimethicone copolyol;

ii) a dimethicone copolyol different from i);

iii) a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer different from i) or ii);

iv) or mixtures thereof;

c) at least one UV filter.

Fat phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase containing at least one oil.

Preferably, according to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least two fatty phases.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The fatty phase suitable for preparing the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or non-fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.

The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

According to a preferred embodiment, the ratio between the volatile and non-volatile oils, when present, is greater than or equal to 1:3, more preferably greater than or equal to 1: 1. They may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which remains on the keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips, at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More particularly, the non-volatile oil has a viscosity of strictly less than 0.01mg/cm²Evaporation rate/min.

To measure the evaporation rate, 15 grams of the oil or oil mixture to be tested were placed in a crystallization dish of 7cm diameter, which was placed at about 0.3m adjusted at a temperature of 25 ℃ and humidity at 50% relative humidity³On a balance in the large chamber. The liquid was allowed to evaporate freely without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, referenced 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallization dish containing said oil or said oil mixture, with the blade directed towards the dish, 20 cm from the bottom of the dish. The mass of the oil or oil mixture remaining in the crystallization dish is measured at regular intervals. Evaporation rate in terms of per unit area (cm)²) And milligrams of oil evaporated per unit time (minutes).

The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating in less than 1 hour on contact with keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips, at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil that is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the essential oils have a concentration of 0.01 and 200mg/cm²Evaporation rate between/min (including the boundary).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si — O group.

The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

As the hydrocarbon-based oil, there may be mentioned:

hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin,

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin,

synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

synthesizing the ester, namely synthesizing the ester,

fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, having a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms,

C₁₂-C₂₂higher fatty acids, and

mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based oils, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam, and Squalane, for example Squalane (Squalane) sold by Croda under the trademark Prinpre 3759-LQ- (GD).

The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises a silicone oil.

As the silicone oil, there can be mentioned:

-linear or cyclic volatile oils, in particular with a centistokes (cSt) less than or equal to 8 (8 × 10)^-6m²Viscosity per s), and in particular those containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms;

-linear or cyclic non volatile Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, at the side or end of the silicone chain;

phenylsilicones, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyldiphenyltrisiloxane and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate,

-and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment, mention may be made, for example, of the brand KF-996 (sold by Shin Etsu Corp.) or

Cyclohexasiloxane available from PMX-0246 (sold by Dow Corning Inc.), or available under the trademark Cyclohexasiloxane

PMX-200silicone fluid 5cs、

PMX-200silicone fluid 350cs or

Polydimethylsiloxanes obtained from PMX-200silicone fluid 10cs (sold by Dow Corning).

Preferably, the composition may comprise a fatty phase present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water.

The aqueous phase may also contain a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature of 20-25 ℃), for example a monohydric alcohol containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols, in particular having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (in particular having 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as monopropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or tripropylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or triethylene glycol (C)₁-C₄) Alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase may also contain a stabilizer, such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.

In particular, the composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, in particular from 5% to 80% by weight and more particularly from 10% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

a) Combinations of surfactants

The compositions of the present invention comprise a combination of at least two surfactants selected from the group consisting of:

i)C₈-C₂₂alkyl dimethicone copolyol;

ii) a dimethicone copolyol different from i);

iii) a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer different from i) or ii);

iv) or mixtures thereof.

According to this embodiment, the combination of surfactants a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

i)C₈-C₂₂Alkyl dimethicone copolyol

C present in the compositions according to the invention₈-C₂₂The alkyl dimethicone copolyol is oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C)₈-C₂₂) Alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.

The C is₈-C₂₂The alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of formula (I):

wherein:

-PE represents (-C)₂H₄O)_x-(C₃H₆O)_yR, R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl (alkyl) group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is in the range of 0 to 100 and y is in the range of 0 to 80, x and y are not both 0,

-m is in the range of 1 to 40,

-n is in the range of 10 to 200,

-o is in the range of 1 to 100,

-p is in the range of 7 to 21,

-q is in the range of 0 to 4,

and preferably:

R＝H，

m is 1 to 10, and m is a linear or branched,

n is 10 to 100, or more,

o is 1 to 30, or a salt thereof,

p＝15，

q＝3。

as C₈-C₂₂Alkyl dimethicone copolyols, mention may be made of cetyl dimethicone copolyols, such as cetyl dimethicone and copolyols of alkoxylated derivatives of dimethicone, more preferably, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, such as Goldschmidt, Inc. to

EM-90 is a product sold under the name of Zealand Red.

Said C is₈-C₂₂The alkyl dimethicone copolyol may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 19.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even better ranging from 1% to 5% by weight.

ii) dimethicone copolyol

Dimethicone copolyol (which is different from i) C above) present in the composition according to the invention₈-C₂₂Alkyl dimethicone copolyol) is an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane.

It is possible to use as dimethicone copolyols those corresponding to the following formula (II):

wherein:

R₁、R₂、R₃independently of one another represent C₁-C₆Alkyl or a radical- (CH)₂)_x-(OCH₂CH₂)_y-(OCH₂CH₂CH₂)_z-OR₄At least one radical R₁、R₂Or R₃Is not an alkyl group; r₄Is hydrogen, C₁-C₃Alkyl or C₂-C₄An acyl group;

a is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

b is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to 0 at the same time;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;

z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compounds of formula (II), R₁＝R₃-methyl, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. R₄In particular hydrogen.

By way of example of compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of compounds of formula (III):

wherein A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

By way of example of silicone compounds of formula (II), mention may also be made of compounds of formula (IV):

HO-(CH₂CH₂O)_y-(CH₂)₃-[(CH₃)₂SiO]_A’-[(CH₃)₂Si]-(CH₂)₃-(OCH₂CH₂)_y-OH (IV)

wherein A' and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20.

Useful dimethicone copolyols include Dow Corning to

5329、

7439-146、

2-5695 and Q4-3667 are names; those sold under the names KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by the company Shin-Etsu.

Said compounds

5329、

7439-146、

2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) wherein a is 22, B is 2 and y is 12, respectively; a is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; a is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

Advantageously, mention may be made of dimethicone copolyols chosen from: PEG Dimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, such as PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trademark KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu and/or PEG-9 Dimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane (and) PEG-9 sold under the trademark KF-6028.

The dimethicone copolyol may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 19.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.8% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

iii) polyoxyalkylenated Silicone Elastomers

Non-limiting examples of emulsifying polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers include those disclosed in U.S. patent nos. 5,236,986, 5,412,004, 5,837,793, and 5,811,487, which are incorporated herein by reference. These silicone elastomers are preferably formulated in the form of a gel in a hydrocarbonated oil and/or a silicone oil. In those gels, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is generally in the form of spherical particles.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomers include the following compositions:

a) available from Shin Etsu:

-KSG-16 Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

-KSG-21 (27% in active material) INCI name: dimethicone/PEG-10 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),

-KSG-20 (95% in active material) INCI name: PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer),

-KSG-30, (100% in active material) INCI name: lauryl PEG-15 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),

-KSG-31 (25% in active material) INCI name: lauryl PEG-15 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),

-KSG-32 or KSG-42 or KSG-320 or KSG-30 (25% in active material) INCI name: lauryl PEG-15 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),

-KSG-33: lauryl PEG-15 (20% of active material) dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),

-KSG-210 (25% in active material) INCI name: polydimethylsiloxane/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer),

-KSG-310: polyoxyethylated lauryl-modified polydimethylsiloxanes in mineral oil,

KSG-330 and KSG-340 PEG-15/lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

X-226146 (32% in active material) INCI name: dimethicone/PEG-10 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer); and

b) available from Dow Corning:

DC 9010 (9% in active material) and DC9011 (11% in active material) INCI name: PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer)

-DC 9040 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer

-DC 9041 polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer;

and the like and mixtures thereof.

The above products are generally in the form of oily gels containing particles of silicone elastomer.

In one embodiment, KSG-210(INCI name: polydimethylsiloxane/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, 25% reactive silicone elastomer in silicone oil) is used.

The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 19.9% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

b) A third surfactant

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one third surfactant. The third surfactant is different from the combination of surfactants of a) above.

According to the invention, the third surfactant is selected from polydialkylsiloxanes comprising polyglycerols or glycerol side and/or end groups.

These silicone surfactants also preferably contain a linear or branched C₁To C₂₀Alkyl side groups, and also preferably straight chain alkyl groups such as lauryl or cetyl. Similarly, these silicone and glycerinated (glycerolated) surfactants may also bear pendant organosiloxane groups.

In particular, mention may be made in this category of:

polydimethylsiloxanes containing polyglycerol side groups, such as polyglycerol-3 disiloxane polydimethylsiloxanes, sold under the name KF-6100 by the company Shin-Etsu;

branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing pendant polyglycerol groups, such as polyglycerol-3 dimethiconoethyl dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6104 by the company Shin-Etsu;

branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing pendant polyglycerol groups and pendant alkyl groups, such as lauryl polyglycerol-3 dimethicoxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the name KF-6105 by the company Shin-Etsu.

In one embodiment, KF-6100(INCI name: polyglycerol-3 disiloxane polydimethylsiloxane) is used.

The third surfactant may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

c) UV filter

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one UV filter.

There is no limitation on the type of the UV filter. Two or more types of UV filters may be used in the present compositions. Thus, a single type of UV filter or a combination of different types of UV filters may be used.

The UV filter may be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the UV filter is present in the composition of the invention in an amount generally ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Organic UV filters

The composition according to the invention may comprise an organic UV filter.

The organic UV filters used in the present invention may be active in the UV-a and/or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.

The organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" refer to solids and liquids at 25 deg.C and 1atm, respectively.

The organic UV filter may be selected from anthranilic compounds (anthranilic compounds); a dibenzoylmethane compound; cinnamic acid compounds (cinnamic compounds); salicylic acid compounds (salicylic compounds); a camphor compound; a benzophenone compound; a beta, beta-diphenylacrylate compound; a triazine compound; a benzotriazole compound; a benzylidene malonate compound; a benzimidazole compound; an imidazoline compound; bis-benzoazolyl (bis-benzoazolyl) compounds; a p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compound; methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; a benzoxazole compound; shielding (screening) polymers and shielding silicones; dimers derived from alpha-alkylstyrene; 4, 4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene (guaiazulene) and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; a flavonoid; a bioflavonoid; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and its derivatives; phenols; retinol; (ii) cysteine; an aromatic amino acid; a peptide having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.

As examples of organic UV filters, mention may be made of those indicated below under their INCI name and mixtures thereof.

-anthranilic acid compounds: menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer.

-dibenzoylmethane compounds: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold by Hoffmann-La Roche especially under the trademark "Parsol 1789"; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.

-cinnamic acid compounds: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold by DSM Nutritional Products, in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX"; methoxy isopropyl cinnamate; isopropoxy methoxy cinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (cinoxate, 2-ethoxyethyl 4-methoxycinnamate); methoxycinnamic acid DEA salt; diisopropyl methyl cinnamate; and glycerol ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

-salicylic acid compounds: homosalate (Homosalate, trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate), sold by Rona/EM Industries under the trademark "Eusolex HMS"; ethylhexyl salicylate, sold by Haarmann and Reimer under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS"; glycol salicylate; butyl octyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, sold by Scher under the trademark "Dipsal"; and TEA Salicylate, sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer.

Camphor compounds, in particular benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SD"; 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, sold by Merck under the trademark "Eusolex 6300"; benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SL"; camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SO"; p-xylylene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SX"; and polyacrylamide methylbenzylidene camphor, manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SW".

-a benzophenone compound: benzophenone-1 (2, 4-dihydroxybenzophenone) sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul 400"; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul D50"; benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul M40"; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulphonic acid), sold by BASF under the trade mark "Uvinul MS 40"; benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenone); sold by Norquay under the trademark "Helisorb 11"; benzophenone-8, sold by American Cyanamid under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24"; benzophenone-9 (disodium dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenone disulfonate), sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul DS-49"; and benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate (UVINUL a +, BASF).

-beta, beta-diphenylacrylate compound: octocrylene (Octocrylene), sold by BASF in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539"; and etoricine (Etocrylene), sold by BASF, in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35".

-a triazine compound: diethylhexyl butamido triazone sold under the trademark "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4, 6-tris (4' -diamidobenzylidene malonate-S-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trademark TINOSORB S by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone sold under the trademark UVINUL T150 by BASF.

-benzotriazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -6-dodecyl-4-methylphenol, branched and straight chain; and those described in USP 5240975.

-benzylidene malonate compounds: dipentyl 4' -methoxybenzylidenemalonate, and polyorganosiloxanes containing benzylidene malonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, sold by Hoffmann-LaRoche under the trademark "Parsol SLX".

Benzimidazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, sold by Merck, in particular under the trademark "Eusolex 232", and disodium phenyldibenzoimidazole tetrasulfonate, sold by Haarmann and Reimer under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP".

-imidazoline compounds: ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazoline propionate.

-bis-benzoxazolyl compounds: such as those described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.

-p-aminobenzoic acid compound: PABA (P-aminobenzoic acid), PABA ethyl ester, dihydroxypropyl PABA ethyl ester, dimethyl PABA pentyl ester, dimethyl PABA ethylhexyl ester, sold by ISP in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507", PABA glycerol ester, and PEG-25PABA, sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul P25".

-methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as 2,2 '-methylenebis [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-phenol ], sold by Fairmount Chemical under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" in solid form, 2,2' -methylenebis [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3, 3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ], sold by BASF under the trademark "Tinosorb M" in micronized form in aqueous dispersion, or sold by Fairmount Chemical under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100" and derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184 and EP-893,119, and

cresol Trioxazole trisiloxane, sold under the trademark "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or sold under the trademark "Mexoryl XL" by L' Oreal, as represented below.

-benzoxazole compounds: 2, 4-bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino ] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3, 5-triazine sold by Sigma 3V under the trademark Uvasorb K2A.

Shielding polymer and shielding silicone: silicones as described in WO 93/04665.

Dimers derived from α -alkylstyrene: dimers as described in DE-19855649.

-4, 4-diarylbutadiene compounds: 1, 1-dicarboxy (2,2' -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenylbutadiene.

Preferably the organic UV filter is selected from:

ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold in particular by DSM Nutritional Products under the trademark "Parsol MCX"; methoxy isopropyl cinnamate; isopropoxy methoxy cinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethoxyethyl ester); methoxycinnamic acid DEA salt; diisopropyl methyl cinnamate; and glycerol ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate;

phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, in particular sold by Merck under the trademark "Eusolex 232", and disodium phenyldibenzoimidazole tetrasulfonate sold by Haarmann and Reimer under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP";

or mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the organic UV filter of the present invention is selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, or mixtures thereof.

If present, the organic UV filter is present in the composition of the invention in an amount generally ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Inorganic UV filter

The composition according to the invention may comprise inorganic UV filters.

The inorganic UV filters used in the present invention may be active in the UV-a and/or UV-B region.

The inorganic UV filter is generally selected from metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc or iron oxides, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly from titanium dioxide (amorphous or rutile and/or anatase crystalline form), zinc oxide and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, the inorganic UV-screening agent is TiO₂。

These metal oxides may be in particulate form, having an average elementary size (mean elementary size) typically less than 200 nm. Advantageously, the metal oxide particles used have an average primary size of less than or equal to 0.15 μm.

These metal oxides may also be in the form of layers, preferably multilayers having an average thickness generally less than 0.2 μm.

The inorganic UV filters according to the invention preferably have an average primary particle size of more than 5nm and less than 200 nm. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the size is preferably in the range of 10nm to 150 nm.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the inorganic UV filter may be a titanium oxide-based nanopigment.

The inorganic UV filter may be coated or uncoated.

The coated inorganic UV filter is a pigment that has undergone one or more chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical properties of surface treatment with a compound as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries,1990, 2, volume 105, pages 53 to 64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminium alkoxides), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxide, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

Preferably, the inorganic UV filter may be selected from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide.

The coated pigment is more particularly a titanium oxide coated with:

coating with silica, such as Sunveil, a product from Ikeda,

coating with silica and iron oxide, such as Sunveil F, a product from Ikeda,

coating with silica and alumina, such as the products Microtitanum Dioxide MT 500SA and Microtitanum Dioxide MT 100SA from Tayca and Tioveil from Tioxide,

coating with alumina, such as Tipaque TTO-55(B) and Tipaque TTO-55(A) from Ishihara and UVT 14/4 from Kemira,

coating with aluminium oxide and stearate, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100TV, MT 100TX, MT 100Z and MT-01 from Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10W and Solaveil CT 100 from Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO from Merck,

coating with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as MT-100AQ, a product from Tayca,

coating with aluminium oxide and aluminium laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100S from Tayca,

coating with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100F from Tayca,

coating with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as product BR 351 from Tayca,

coated with silica and alumina and treated with silicone, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600SAS, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500SAS or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100SAS from Tayca,

coated with silica, alumina and aluminium stearate and treated with silicone, such as STT-30-DS, a product from Titan Kogyo,

coating with silica and treatment with silicone, such as the product UV-Titan X195 from Kemira,

coating with alumina and treatment with silicone, such as Tipaque TTO-55(S) from Ishihara or UV Titan M262 from Kemira,

coating with triethanolamine, such as STT-65-S, a product from Titan Kogyo,

coating with stearic acid, such as Tipaque TTO-55(C) from Ishihara,

coating with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150W from Tayca,

TiO treated with octyltrimethylsilane₂Sold under the name T805 by Degussa Silicals,

TiO treated with polydimethylsiloxane₂Under the trade name 70250Cardre UF TiO from Cardre₂Si₃The product is sold for a long time,

treatment of anatase/rutile TiO with polydimethylhydrosiloxane₂Sold under the trade name of Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade hydrophibic by Color technologies.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the name Microtitanum Dioxide MT 500B or Microtitanum Dioxide MT 600B, by the company Degussa under the name P25, by the company Wackherr under the name TRANSPARENT TITANIUM oxide PW, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the company TiOxide under the name Tioveil AQ.

According to the invention, titanium Dioxide coated with aluminum oxide and aluminum stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100TV, is preferred.

If present, the inorganic UV filter is present in the composition of the invention in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pigment (I)

"pigment" means a white or colored, organic or inorganic, hydrophilic or hydrophobic non-interfering particle that is insoluble in aqueous and non-aqueous media and is intended to color the composition.

Inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, and also oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

Organic pigments which can be used according to the invention include D & C pigments, lakes based on cochineal and on barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium, or Diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) as described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one treated or untreated, hydrophilic or hydrophobic inorganic pigment.

The hydrophilic pigment may be of any type that has been conventionally used or can be used in the field of cosmetics, examples of which include a hydrophilic pigment in an untreated state, or may be a pigment that has been surface-treated to be hydrophilized, or a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the hydrophilic pigment according to the invention is a treated or untreated iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

The term "pearlescent pigment" or "nacres" is to be understood as meaning any form of colored particles which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthetic, and which have a color effect via optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic dyes are superimposed.

Examples of nacres which may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.

The nacres can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or luster.

As an illustration of the nacres which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of the golden nacres sold under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisone), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504(Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisone), inter alia by the company Engelhard; bronze nacres, in particular sold under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by the company Merck and under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne) by the company Engelhard; in particular Orange nacres sold by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisone) and Orange MCR 101(Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Session Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown nacres, in particular sold under the name Nu-anticque hopper 340xb (cloisonne) and Brown CL4509(Chromalite) by the company Engelhard; in particular nacres with a Copper lustre sold under the name Copper 340A (Timica) by the company Engelhard; nacres with a red lustre, in particular sold under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona) by the company Merck; nacres with a Yellow lustre, in particular sold under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite) by the company Engelhard; red nacres with a golden gloss, in particular sold under the name Sunstone G012(Gemtone) by the company Engelhard; pink nacre, in particular sold under the name Tan opale G005(Gemtone) by the company Engelhard; black nacre with golden luster, in particular sold under the name Nu anti breeze 240ab (timica) by the company Engelhard; blue nacre, in particular sold under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna) by Merck; white nacres with a silvery lustre, in particular sold under the name Xirona Silver by the company Merck; and in particular the aurora-green-pink-orange nacre sold under the name Indian summer (Xirona) by the company Merck, and mixtures thereof.

When an untreated pigment is used, the pigment is selected to have a relatively large average particle size, preferably to have an average particle size of 0.1 to 50 μm, more preferably 0.1 to 30 μm, and even more preferably 0.1 to 20 μm.

In a particular embodiment, the hydrophilic pigment is an untreated inorganic pigment, preferably an untreated metal oxide, such as titanium oxide and/or iron oxide.

Mention may be made, for example, of the product sold under the name HOMBTAN FF PHARMA by SACHTLEBEN, under the name Sunpuro by SUN^TMRed iron oxide C33-8001(INCI name oxidation)Iron R), Sunpuro^TMBlack iron oxide C33-7001(INCI name: iron oxide B) or Sunpuro^TMyellow iron oxide C33-9001(INCI name iron oxide Y).

In another particular embodiment, the hydrophilic pigment is a treated hydrophilic pigment, i.e., a pigment that has been hydrophilized surface treated with any of the treating agents commonly used to impart hydrophilic properties to pigments. In general, the hydrophilic organic agent used for the surface treatment of the material in order to optimize its dispersibility in aqueous media is more particularly chosen from biopolymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates and polyethylene glycol derivatives. The material so treated may be dispersed in the absence of a solvent-soluble medium, such as water. As an example of a biopolymer to be used for coating the dye to be dissolved according to the present invention, mention may be made of polymers based on carbohydrate type monomers. More particularly, bioglycan gums, chitosan and derivatives thereof, such as butyloxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate and the like, chitin and derivatives thereof, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; phosphoric acid double starch; sodium hyaluronate; a soluble proteoglycan; galactose arabinan; a glycosaminoglycan; glycogen; sclerotium rolfsii gum; (ii) a glucan; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof. However, it is also possible to use pigments which have been surface-treated by a surface-treating agent, for example in a silica treatment, an alumina treatment, a silica alumina treatment or a titanium dioxide treatment.

In the present invention, silica and silica (and) alumina treatment treatments are particularly preferred and the treatments themselves are conventional in the art.

Mention may be made of such pigments, for example the products sold under the trade names Sympholight WW (INCI name titanium dioxide and silica and alumina), Sympholight RW-S (INCI name iron oxide and silica), Sympholight BW-S (INCI name iron oxide and silica), Sympholight YW-S (INCI name iron oxide and silica). Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises at least one treated hydrophilic pigment selected from silica and alumina treated titanium dioxide, silica treated iron oxide or mixtures thereof.

According to another preferred embodiment, the present invention comprises at least one treated or untreated hydrophobic pigment.

Inorganic pigments more particularly selected from titanium oxide and iron oxide (especially yellow, black and red) treated with at least one hydrophobizing agent will be used.

The pigments of the invention are preferably completely or partially surface-treated with hydrophobicizing agents, more particularly with fluoro, fatty acids or amino acids or silicone compounds or mixtures thereof.

Their primary particle size D0.5 is in particular less than 20 μm, preferably between 0.4 and 10 μm inclusive.

By way of example, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow acyl glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphate esters and polyhexafluoropropylene oxide; a perfluoropolyether; an amino acid; an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof; lecithin; isopropyl triisostearate (isoproyl trisstearoyl titanate); isostearyl sebacate; and silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes (polydimethylsiloxanes), and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophobic treatment agent is preferably selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphate, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, perfluoropolyether, amino acid, N-acyl amino acid or salt thereof, isopropyl triisostearate and a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the hydrophobic agent is selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphate esters, N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, chemi-mechanical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to the skilled person. It is also possible to use commercial products.

The surfactant can be absorbed or adsorbed onto the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction, and creation of covalent bonds.

According to one description (version), the surface treatment comprises a coating of a pigment.

The coating may represent 0.1 to 10 weight percent and more particularly 1 to 5 weight percent of the total weight of the coated pigment.

Before incorporation of the pigment into the other ingredients of the care or make-up composition, it is possible, for example, to carry out the coating by allowing a liquid surfactant to adsorb to the surface of the pigment, by simply mixing the pigment and said surfactant with stirring, optionally under heating conditions (hot conditioning).

The coating can be performed, for example, by a chemical reaction of the surfactant with the surface of the pigment and creating a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigment. Such a process is described in particular in patent US 4,578,266.

Amino acid or fatty acid treatment agent

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow acyl glutamate; an amino acid; an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof; lecithin; isopropyl triisostearate (or alternatively, ITT), and mixtures thereof.

The N-acyl amino acid may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. The salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

The fatty acid in the present invention is more particularly an acid having a hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having 5 to 18 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon chain may be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

Examples of pigments coated with fatty acids include those containing disodium stearoyl glutamate/aluminum hydroxide pairs (pairing), these are sold in particular by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the trade names NAI-TAO-77891, NAI-C33-8073-10, NAI-C33-8075, NAI-C47-051-10, NAI-C33-115, NAI-C33-134, NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10, NAI-C33-9001-10.

Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl triisostearate (ITT) include those sold by Kobo under the tradenames BWBO-12 (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl triisostearate), BWYO-12 (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl triisostearate), and BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl triisostearate).

Preferably, pigments coated with disodium stearoyl glutamate/aluminum hydroxide are used in the present invention.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one pigment in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thickening agent

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thickener selected from hydrophilic thickeners, lipophilic thickeners or mixtures thereof.

Hydrophilic thickeners

The term "hydrophilic thickener" is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the composition.

The hydrophilic thickeners may be used alone or in combination. These thickeners may be chosen in particular from cellulose polymers and gums.

As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made in particular of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may be chosen in particular from:

-a polyvinylpyrrolidone,

-a polyvinyl alcohol (PVA),

modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, e.g. Goodrich Co

(CTFA name: carbomer) is a product sold under the name Kazak;

homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts and esters thereof, and in particular Versicol from Allied Colloid

Or Versicol

Or Salcare SC95, Ultrahold from Ciba-Geigy

Products sold under the name polyacrylate and polymethacrylate, such as those sold under the name Lubrajel and Norgel by Guardian or Hispagel by Hispano Chimica, polyacrylic acids of the Synthalen K type;

-a polyacrylamide;

hercules Corp Ltd

Copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold under the name of their sodium salts, sold by Vanderbilt under the name Darvan N DEG

Poly (sodium methacrylate) sold under the name Hydagen by Henkel

Sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids (polyhydroxycarboxylic acids) sold under the name of;

polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS by the company Clariant (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate);

crosslinked anionic acrylamide/AMPS copolymers in the form of W/O emulsions, such as those sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepigel 305(CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7) and Simulgel 600(CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80);

-polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of the Pemulen type;

biopolymer of polysaccharidesSubstances such as xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan, exopolysaccharides (gellan), alginates or celluloses, such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose. Mention may be made, for example, of the CP Kelco company under the trade name

Xanthan gum sold by CG-T;

hydrophilic pyrogenic silica obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of volatile silicon compounds in an oxyhydrogen flame to produce finely divided silica. The hydrophilic silicas have a large number of silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, Aerosil from Degussa

Aerosil

Aerosil

Aerosil

And Aerosil

As its name, or Cab-O-Sil by Cabot corporation

Cab-O-Sil

Cab-O-Sil

Cab-O-Sil MS-

And Cab-O-Sil

Sold under the name of Vietnam. They preferably have particle sizes that may be on the order of nanometers to micrometers, for example in the range of about 5 to 200 nm;

-a hydrophilic clay;

associative polymers, such as the PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer sold by Rohm & Haas under the name Aculyn 46, or the steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer sold by Elementis under the name Rheolate FX 1100;

-and mixtures thereof.

Lipophilic thickening agent

The term "lipophilic thickener" is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase of the composition.

The lipophilic thickener is preferably selected from mineral lipophilic thickeners.

Mention may in particular be made of lipophilic clays, e.g. clays optionally modified, e.g. with C₁₀To C₂₂Ammonium chloride modified hectorites, for example modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

Clays are silicates containing cations which may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.

By way of examples of such products, mention may be made of clays of the montmorillonite (smectite) family, such as montmorillonite (montmorillonite), hectorite, bentonite, beidellite or saponite, and also clays of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.

The clay may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably bentonite or hectorite.

Organophilic clays are clays modified with compounds selected from the group consisting of quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of the quaternary ammonium salt-18 bentonites, such as those sold by the company Elementis under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V, by the company United Catalyst VP, and by the company Southern Clay under the names Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL; stearammonium chloride bentonites, such as those sold by Elementis under the name Bentone 27, United Catalyst LG under the name Tixogel LG, and Southern Clay under the names Claytone AF and Claytone APA; quaternary ammonium salt-18/benzalkonium chloride bentonites, such as those sold by the Southern Clay company under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS, disteardimonium hectorite, such as those sold by the ELEMENTIS company under the name Bentone 38VCG, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic thickener is selected from organophilically modified clays, such as disteardimonium hectorite.

Mention may also be made of hydrophobic silicas, such as fumed silicas, optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, having a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reactions which cause a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is particularly possible to replace the silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: hydrophobic silica is subsequently obtained. The hydrophobic group may be:

trimethylsiloxy, which is obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silicon dioxide thus treated is referred to as "silylated silica" according to CTFA (6 th edition, 1995). They are for example available from Degussa for reference Aerosil

And by Cabot corporation for reference Cab-O-Sil

Selling;

dimethylsiloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silica thus treated is according to CTFA (6 th edition, 199)5) Referred to as "silica dimethylsilylate". They are for example available from Degussa for reference Aerosil

And Aerosil

And by Cabot corporation for reference Cab-O-Sil

And Cab-O-Sil

And (5) selling.

The hydrophobic fumed silica preferably has a particle size that can be on the order of nanometers to micrometers, for example in the range of about 5 to 200 nm.

According to a preferred embodiment, if present, the thickener is selected from xanthan gum, disteardimonium hectorite, silica silylate or mixtures thereof, more preferably the thickener is disteardimonium hectorite.

The at least one thickener may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional surfactants

The composition of the present invention further comprises at least one additional surfactant different from the surfactants described above.

The additional surfactant has an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at a temperature of 25 ℃ according to the Griffin method.

The HLB value according to GRIFIN is defined in J.Ploughhare.Cosm.chem.1954 (volume 5), page 249-256.

Preferably, said third surfactant has an HLB value according to the Griffin method of between 8 and 20 at a temperature of 25 ℃, more preferably according to the Griffin method of between 10 and 15 at a temperature of 25 ℃.

Preferably, the third surfactant is selected from a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant or a mixture thereof.

Nonionic surfactants suitable for the present compositions may be selected from:

polyoxyethylated sorbitol fatty esters, such as the products sold under the name TWEEN 20 by ICI;

polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols, such as the products sold by Gerland under the name REMCOPAL 21912 AL;

polyoxyethylated alkylphenols, e.g.

Products sold under the name TRITON X100; and

condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, such as those sold under the name SYNPERONIC PE by ICI, and in particular those referenced as L31, L64, F38, F88, L92, P103, F108 and F127;

esters of fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol, preferably C₆-C₃₀More preferably C₈-C₁₆Esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol. Mention may be made, for example, of glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl caprylate, polyglyceryl 1-4 caprate or mixtures thereof. Such products are commercially available, for example, a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate may be sold under the trade name Simulsol by Seppic corporation^TM165, or as tradename by Evonik Goldschmidt

The product sold by PC 41 is polyglycerol 1-4 decanoate.

Ethers of polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol and glycerol, such as glyceryl polyether-26 and PPG-24 glyceryl polyether-24;

esters derived from the reaction of a) fatty acids and b) polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol glycerol ethers, such as, for example, glyceryl polyether-7 or glyceryl polyether-25 PCA isostearate;

esters of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, possibly comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as, for example, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and sucrose palmitate;

alkyl polyglucosides, preferably those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising from 1.2 to 3 saccharide units. Mention may be made, for example, of decyl glucoside (alkyl-C)₉/C₁₁Polyglucosides (1.4)), such as Cogins (BASF) and

product sold under the name 2000UP, MYDOL by Kao Chemicals

Sold under the name Cognis and

products sold under the name 2000UP, and Seppic and

NS 10 is a product sold under the name; octyl/decyl glucoside, e.g. Seppic to

CG 110 is a product sold under the name of; lauryl glucosides, e.g. Cognis, for

1200N and

1200 is a product sold under the name of; and coco glucoside, such as Cognis, for example

818/UP is a product sold under the name cetostearyl glucoside (cetostearylglucoside), optionally as a mixture with spermacetiMixtures of stearyl alcohols (cetostearyl alcohols), e.g. from Seppic under the name MONTANOV 68, from Goldschmidt

CARE CG90 and Henkel are sold under the name EMULGADE KE 3302; arachidoyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl and arachidoyl glucoside, sold under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of a (35/65) mixture with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants, mention may in particular be made of:

alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and their salts, in particular their sodium salts, such as the sodium/magnesium laureth sulfate/laureth-8 sodium sulfate/magnesium laureth-8 sulfate mixture sold by Henkel under the name TEXAPON ASV; henkel with SIPON AOS 225 or

N702 PASTE is sodium lauryl ether sulfate (C) sold under the name "PASTE_12-1470/30) (2.2 EO); ammonium lauryl ether sulfate sold by Henkel under the name SIPON LEA 370 (C)_12-1470/30) (3 EO); rhodia Chimie to

AB/20 is alkyl sold under the name (C)₁₂-C₁₄) Ammonium ether (9EO) sulfate;

alkyl sulfoacetates, e.g. Stepan and

LAL is an alkyl sulfoacetate sold under the name;

alkyl sulfosuccinates, for example oxyethylenated (3EO) lauryl alcohol (C) sold by Witco under the name SETACIN 103SPECIAL or REWOPOL SB-FA 30K 4₁₂/C₁₄70/30) Monosulfosuccinate salt, sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE by Zschimmer Schwarz₁₂-C₁₄Disodium salt of the alcohol hemisulfosuccinate, disodium oxyethylated (2EO) oleamido sulfosuccinate sold by Henkel under the name STANDAPOL SH 135, oxyethylated (5EO) lauramide monosulfosuccinate sold by Sanyo under the name LEBON A-5000, Witco under the name Witco

SB CS 50 is sold under the name of disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10EO) lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate or Witco

S1333 is the disodium salt of ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide;

polypeptides obtained, for example, by condensation of fatty chains with cereal amino acids, and in particular wheat and oat amino acids, such as, for example, Croda as AMINOFOAM^TMW OR is sold as potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, triethanolamine salt of cocoyl hydrolyzed soybean protein sold by Maybrook as MAY-TEIN SY, Seppic as PROTEOL^TMSodium salt of lauroyl OAT amino acid sold under the name OAT, hydrolysate of collagen grafted onto coconut fatty acid sold under the name GELIDERM 3000 by Deutsche Gelatine or soy protein acylated with hydrogenated coconut oil acid sold under the name protiol VS 22 by Seppic;

amino acid derivatives, for example sarcosinates, and in particular acyl sarcosinates, such as sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97 by Ciba or orammix by Seppic^TML30 is sodium lauroyl SARCOSINATE sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN, Nikkol SARCOSINATE sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN, or Nikkol SARCOSINATE sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN; alanine salts, such as SODIUM N-lauroyl-N-methylaminopropionate sold under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30 by Nikkol or ALANONE ALE by Kawaken, and triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine salt sold under the name ALANONE ALA by Kawaken; n-acyl glutamates, e.g. the triethanolamine salt of mono-cocoyl glutamate sold by Ajinomoto under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12, and Ajinomoto under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 is sold as the triethanolamine salt of lauroyl glutamic acid; aspartate salts such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate sold under the name ASPARACK LM-TS2 by Mitsubishi; or glycine derivatives such as sodium and potassium N-cocoyl glycinate, for example the products sold by Ajinomoto under the names AMILITE GCS-12 and AMILITE GCK-12;

sulfonates, e.g. alpha-olefin sulfonates, such as Stepan and

AS-40 is sold under the name Witco under the name WITCONATE AOS

And SURFRAMINE AOS PH 12 as sold under the name BIO-

Alpha-olefins (C) sold under the name AS-40CG_14-16) Sodium sulfonate, or Clariant, or

SAS 30 is sodium secondary olefin sulfonate (sodium secondary olefin sulfonate) sold under the name of SAS; or linear alkylaryl sulfonates such as sodium xylene sulfonate sold under the names Manrosol SXS30, Manrosol SXS40, or Manrosol SXS93 by Manro;

isethionates, in particular acyl isethionates, such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, for example the product sold by Jordan under the name JORDAPON CI P.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of:

alkylamidoalkylamine derivatives such as N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N- (carboxymethyl) ethylenediamine N-disodium sold by Rhodia Chimie under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC NP as an aqueous salt solution (CTFA name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate); a mixture of N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N- (carboxymethyl) ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocoamphoacetate), and cocoethanolamide (CTFA name: cocoamide DEA);

betaines, such as, for example, cocobetaines, such as Henkel and

AB-30 is a product sold under the name of lauryl betaine, e.g. Clariant

KB is a product sold under the name of oxyethylenated (10EO) LAURYL BETAINE, such as Shin Nihon Rica under the name of LAURYL ETHER (10EO) BETAINE, or oxyethylenated (10EO) stearyl BETAINE, such as Shin Nihon Rica under the name of STEARYL ETHER (10EO) BETAINE;

alkylamidopropylbetaines and their derivatives, such as, for example, those sold by Sanyo under the name LEBON 2000HG or Albright&Will be Wilson to

Cocamidopropyl betaine sold under the name BB, Witco, REWOTERIC

Lauramidopropyl BETAINEs sold under the name cocamidopropyl BETAINE, such as the product sold under the name TEGO BETAINE by Goldschmidt;

imidazoline derivatives, such as the product sold by Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HD; and

mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the third surfactant is selected from nonionic surfactants.

More preferably, the third surfactant is selected from esters of fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol, alkyl polyglucosides or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the third surfactant is selected from C₆-C₃₀More preferably C₆-C₁₆Esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol containing fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atomsAlkyl polyglucosides containing hydrophilic groups (glycosides) which preferably comprise from 1.2 to 3 saccharide units, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the third surfactant of the present invention is selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 decanoate, decyl glucoside or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the at least one third surfactant is present in the composition of the invention in a range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Galenic form

The compositions according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of dispersions or emulsions, such as in particular water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions or multiple emulsions.

The dispersion can be prepared as an aqueous phase or as an oil phase.

The emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase. Such emulsions may be, for example, inverse (W/O) or direct (O/W) emulsions, or alternatively multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O).

In the case of emulsions, multiple emulsions, especially oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions, are preferred.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is prepared according to the following steps:

1) adding at least one third surfactant and at least one UV filter as defined in the present invention to water, mixing at room temperature (25 ℃) until homogeneous to obtain phase B;

2) mixing at least one oil with phase B, mixing by stirring for 15 minutes to obtain emulsion 1, which is an oil-in-water emulsion;

3) mixing at least two surfactants selected from the group consisting of:

i)C₈-C₂₂alkyl dimethicone copolyol;

ii) a dimethicone copolyol different from i);

iii) a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer different from i) or ii);

iv) or mixtures thereof;

and/or at least one oil to obtain a fatty phase a;

4) adding the emulsion 1 obtained in step 2) to the fatty phase a obtained in step 3), homogenizing the mixture by stirring to form an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion.

Additive agent

In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound selected from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, additional oils and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive commonly used in the field in question, for example selected from gums, resins, additional thickeners, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersing agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, bactericides (anti), additional UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectants, and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine practice for the person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention so as not to thereby influence the desired cosmetic properties and their stability.

Method and use

The compositions of the invention can be used in non-therapeutic methods, such as methods for caring for/making up the skin, in particular the face, which comprise applying the compositions according to the invention to the skin.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as such or in a cosmetic product for making up/caring for/cleansing/removing makeup from the skin, in particular the face and the lips.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions and methods according to the invention, but in no way limit the scope of the invention. Unless otherwise noted, all parts and percentages in the examples are given on a weight basis, and all measurements were obtained at about 25 ℃.

Examples

Preparation of

The following formulation was prepared.

The compositions as listed above were prepared according to the following procedure:

1) add the ingredients of phase B to water and mix the mixture at room temperature (25 ℃) until homogeneous to obtain phase B;

2) fat phase a2 was added to phase B, homogenized by stirring for 15 minutes to obtain emulsion 1, which is an O/W emulsion;

3) mixing the ingredients in phase a1 to homogeneity at room temperature (25 ℃) to obtain a fatty phase a;

4) the emulsion 1 obtained in step 2) is added to the fatty phase a obtained in step 3), and the mixture is homogenized by stirring.

Evaluation of

The UV-shielding effect (SPF and PPD values) and the water washability effect of the inventive formulations 1 and 2 and the comparative formulation 1 prepared above were evaluated.

In vivo SPF test, Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the formulation such as FDA Sunscreen product Final regulation (sun Final Rule); CFR 21 pieces 201 and 310 section [ file number: FDA-1978-N-0018] (formerly document No.: 1978N-0038), RIN 0910-AF43, Labeling and validation Testing (Labeling and Effect Testing); sunscreen drugs For Over-the-Counter Human Use [ FR doc.2011-14766, 06/16/2011 filing; date of publication: 06/17/2011] was evaluated on human skin using a xenon arc solar simulator as a UV source as defined.

In vivo PPD testing of the formulations was performed according to the UVA Protection effectiveness Measurement standard (Measurement Standards for UVA Protection effectiveness) issued by the Japan chemical Industry Association (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association) -J.C.I.A. -21.11.1995 and validated at 1.1.1996. The UVAPPD sun protection factor (UVAPPD SPF) is mathematically represented by the ratio of the UV-A radiation dose (MPPDp) required to reach the pigmentation threshold with a UV-screening agent to the UV-A radiation dose (MPPDn) required to reach the pigmentation threshold without a UV-screening agent.

The water washability effect of the recipe was performed with a color sphere (Chromasphere) having a resolution of 410x410 pixels according to the following scheme:

measurements were made in a standardized manner at 20 ℃ before and after application of the composition to the skin of a model with bare fingers, washing with tepid water after application (for evaluation of water washability effect).

Instrumental measurement protocol for Water washability Effect

Colorimetric measurements of the skin before and after makeup were made by measuring the average of the plane (planes), C (chroma, distance from neutral axis-saturation), H (hue, angle/direction in the range of 360 degrees) and L (lightness) of 10 female models, respectively. For each bit of the 10-bit female model, an image was acquired using a color sphere having a resolution of 410x410 pixels. The results are expressed in the following manner: colors were quantified by C (chroma, distance from neutral axis-saturation), H (hue, angle/direction in the range of 360 degrees) and L (brightness) analyzed by the camera. By variation of these variables (. DELTA.E) after 3 hours of makeup₉₄) Homogeneity and persistence (long lasting) were calculated. Δ E, dE or Δ E₉₄Is defined as a measure of the difference between the two colors. The CIE technical Commission (TC 1-29) published the formula shown below in 1995:

wherein:

K_L、K₁and K₂Is a weighting factor;

L₁*、C₁h and₁is the coordinate in the chromaticity space (colorimetric space) of the first color to be compared, and L₂*、C₂H and₂is the coordinate of the second color in the chromaticity space.

A measurement of the effect of water washability was made and made at the following times:

T_10minmeasured after 10 minutes of application of the composition

T_20minMeasurement 20 minutes after washing the skin to which the composition is applied with tepid water

(T_10min–T₀) And (T)_20min–T₀) Measurement of Water washability of the composition

Measurements were performed on a panel of 10 female models, which were left in an air-conditioned (22 ℃ +/-2 ℃) waiting room for 15 minutes before the test began. They removed their makeup and acquired an image of one of their cheeks using a ball having a resolution of 410x410 pixels. This image makes it possible to measure T before applying makeup₀The color of the light. Approximately 10mg of inventive compositions 1 and 2 and comparative compositions 1, 2 and 3 were then weighed into a petri dish and applied with a bare finger, respectively, thereto for T₀The area measured was 12.56cm²On the facial skin.

After 10 minutes drying time, images of the cosmetic cheek area were taken using a color sphere. This image makes it possible to measure the colour (T) immediately after application of makeup_10min). The makeup cheeks were then washed with lukewarm water. Finally, an image of a clean cheek region after waiting 20 minutes after washing the makeup cheek region was acquired using a color sphere. This image makes it possible to measure the colour (T) after washing the makeup cheek area_20min)。

The results are expressed by the following equation:

difference (%) ═ o (Δ E)₉₄(T_10min－T₀)－ΔE₉₄(T_20min－T₀)]/ΔE₉₄(T_10min－T₀)﹜×100％

The higher the difference (%) is, the better the water washability of the composition is. If the difference is more than 80%, preferably more than 85%, the product exhibits excellent water washability. If the difference is below 70%, the product does not have an acceptable water washability effect.

Panelist evaluation protocol for rinsability Effect of the composition

Finally, the scores for the rinsability effect of the present formulations 1 and 2, and the comparative formulation 1, respectively, were given by the panelists of the 10 female models.

The cosmetic effect was evaluated by panelists 15 minutes after (applying) 100mg of the composition prepared in the formulation examples on each half of the face of a female model.

The water washability effect was evaluated by the same panelists according to the following procedure:

the formulations prepared in the formulation examples were each applied (100 mg) on a half of the face of a female model;

after 15 minutes of formulation application, the face of the female model was washed with tepid water;

a water washability score was given by the female model 20 minutes after washing the half of the face to which the formulation was applied with lukewarm water.

5: is very good

4: the method is basically good;

3: acceptable;

2: slightly poor and not acceptable;

1: poor, unacceptable.

The results of the makeup effect and the washable property effect were as follows:

from the results listed above, it is observed that: the inventive formulations 1 and 2 have a good UV shielding effect, i.e., high SPF and PPD values, and at the same time have an improved water washability effect, compared to the comparative formulation 1.

Based on the evaluation results listed above, the inventors found that the composition according to the present invention overcomes the technical problems existing in the prior art, and provides a stable cosmetic composition having an optimized washable property effect while maintaining a good UV-screening effect.

Claims

1. A water washable composition in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one fatty phase, at least one aqueous phase and:

a) 1-20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a combination of at least two surfactants selected from:

i) 0.5-10 wt% of C₈-C₂₂An alkyl dimethicone copolyol selected from compounds of the following formula (I):

wherein:

-PE represents (-C)₂H₄O)_x-(C₃H₆O)_yR, R is chosen from hydrogen atoms, x is in the range from 0 to 100 and y is in the range from 0 to 80, x and y are not both 0,

-m is in the range of 1 to 40,

-n is in the range of 10 to 200,

-o is in the range of 1 to 100,

-p is in the range of 7 to 21,

-q ranges from 0 to 4;

II) 0.5 to 10% by weight of dimethicone copolyol different from i) selected from compounds of formula (II):

wherein:

R₁、R₂、R₃independently of one another represent C₁-C₆Alkyl or a radical- (CH)₂)_x-(OCH₂CH₂)_y-(OCH₂CH₂CH₂)_z-OR₄At least one radical R₁、R₂Or R₃Is not an alkyl group; r₄Is hydrogen;

a is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;

z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5;

iii) 0.5 to 15% by weight of a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer different from i) or ii);

b) 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one third surfactant different from surfactant a) chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant polyglycerol groups; and

c)0.5-20 wt% of at least one UV filter;

wherein the at least one fatty phase comprises a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil, a fluorinated oil or a non-fluorinated oil or mixtures thereof, the at least one fatty phase being present in an amount ranging from 2% to 40% and the at least one aqueous phase being present in an amount ranging from 5% to 80% relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, in the form of a multiple emulsion.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein in formula (I):

-PE represents (-C)₂H₄O)_x-(C₃H₆O)_y-R, R is H,

-m is in the range of 1 to 10,

-n is in the range of 10 to 100,

-o is in the range of 1 to 30,

-p is a number of 15,

-q is 3.

4. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein the surfactant i) C₈-C₂₂The alkyl dimethicone copolyol is selected from cetyl dimethicone copolyol.

5. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein in formula (II):

R₁and R₃Same is methyl, R₄Is hydrogen.

6. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein the surfactant ii) dimethicone copolyol is a compound of the following formula (III):

wherein A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20, or mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein the dimethicone copolyol different from i) is a compound of formula (IV) below:

HO-(CH₂CH₂O)_y-(CH₂)₃-[(CH₃)₂SiO]_A'-[(CH₃)₂Si]-(CH₂)₃-(OCH₂CH₂)_y-OH (IV)

wherein A' and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20.

8. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer different from i) or ii) is selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane/vinylpolydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, polydimethylsiloxane/PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane vinylpolydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, lauryl PEG-15 polydimethylsiloxane vinylpolydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, polydimethylsiloxane/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, Polyoxyethylated lauryl-modified polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, polydimethylsiloxane/PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, cyclopentasiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, or mixtures thereof in mineral oil.

9. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein the combination of surfactants a) is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein the third surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein the UV filter is selected from an organic UV filter, an inorganic UV filter, or mixtures thereof.

12. The composition of any of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein the UV filter is selected from anthranilic acid compounds; a dibenzoylmethane compound; a cinnamic acid compound; a salicylic acid compound; a camphor compound; a benzophenone compound; a beta, beta-diphenylacrylate compound; a triazine compound; a benzotriazole compound; a benzylidene malonate compound; a benzimidazole compound; an imidazoline compound; a bis-benzoxazolyl compound; a p-aminobenzoic acid compound; methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; a benzoxazole compound; a shielding silicone; dimers derived from alpha-alkylstyrene; 4, 4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and its derivatives; rutin and derivatives thereof; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and its derivatives; retinol; (ii) cysteine; an aromatic amino acid; a peptide having an aromatic amino acid residue; coated or uncoated oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.

13. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, wherein the at least one UV filter is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, comprising at least one further surfactant different from the surfactants i), ii) or iii), said further surfactant having an HLB greater than or equal to 8.

15. The composition of claim 14, the additional surfactant being selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylated sorbitol fatty esters, polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylated alkylphenols, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, esters of fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol, ethers of polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol and glycerol, esters derived from the reaction of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol glycerol ethers, esters of sucrose and fatty acids containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl polyglucosides, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and their salts, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sulfosuccinate salts, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates or mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, comprising at least one pigment chosen from treated or untreated, hydrophilic or hydrophobic inorganic pigments.

17. The composition of claim 16, the pigment being selected from treated or untreated, hydrophilic or hydrophobic metal oxides or mixtures thereof.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, comprising at least one thickener chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, lipophilic thickeners or mixtures thereof.

19. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, the fatty phase being selected from squalane, cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane or mixtures thereof.

20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one third surfactant different from surfactant a) is chosen from branched polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant polyglycerol groups.

21. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one third surfactant different from surfactant a) is selected from the group consisting of branched polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant polyglycerol groups and pendant alkyl groups, wherein the pendant alkyl groups are linear or branched C₁-C₂₀An alkyl group.

22. A method for making up the skin, characterized in that it comprises applying to the skin a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 21.