CN106498598A - The technique of lightweight woolen fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a kind of technique of lightweight woolen fabric, the technique number of this lightweight woolen fabric is frivolous along hair fancy suiting into high of slubbing up to 25/1 public slubbing weaving yarns, high of the slubbing is frivolous good along hair fancy suiting fiber coherent and antistatic behaviour, high wool yarn levelness of slubbing is uniform, intensity is big, the frivolous submissive, good hand feeling of fabric, smooth and tool bony.Aethiops vegetabilis fabric lining has insulation and health care double effectses, it is adaptable to the clothing such as T-shirt, underwear, and long-term dress wipes human body molecular mill and produces thermal response, promotes body blood circulation, can play the effect of heat storing and heat preserving.

Description

The technique of lightweight woolen fabric

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of production technology of fabric, more particularly to a kind of technique of lightweight woolen fabric, belong to garment material technical field.

Background technology

It is sheep's wool that weaving wool fibre is main, so-called Pilus Caprae seu Oviss, or claims wool fibre, or abbreviation hair.Its advantage is it is obvious that one is that dress is as snug as a bug in a rug with high-hydroscopicity.Two is with warmth retention property, natural crimp, can be formed between many immobilising air zones as barrier.Three is with ruggedness, with extraordinary draftability and elastic recovery.Pilus Caprae seu Oviss fancy yarn in the market is mainly all fabricated to coat, although these clothing wear very warm, but its weight also oppresses people to a certain extent, high wool yarn levelness uniformity of slubbing is undesirable, strongly little, the coherent of fiber, antistatic behaviour and feel are poor, and fabric is integrally thick and heavy.

Content of the invention

It is an object of the invention to overcoming above-mentioned deficiency, a kind of technique of lightweight woolen fabric is provided, this technique productions wool fabric out can greatly reduce the damage of product of wool fiber, and fiber coherent and antistatic behaviour are good, high wool yarn levelness of slubbing is uniform, intensity is big, and fabric is frivolous submissive.

The object of the present invention is achieved like this：

A kind of technique of lightweight woolen fabric, this production technology are comprised the following steps that：

1）, yarn variety design：

From wool fiber, cashmere fiber and Sargassum Carbon fibe, to wool fiber, cashmere fiber and Sargassum Carbon fibe carry out anti pilling process, ferment treatment and soft treatment, anti pilling process is from phosphate ester antimony oxide mixture as anti pilling agent, phosphate ester antimony oxide amount of mixture is wool fiber weight 1.5-4%, ferment treatment system is processed using protease, 0.1-0.2% of the albumen enzyme dosage for wool fiber weight, the softening agent that soft treatment is selected is water-soluble organic silicon softening agent, 6-8% of the water-soluble organic silicon softening agent consumption for wool fiber weight；

2）, spinning process：

After dyeing 70% super-fine wool fiber, 30% polyester fiber are passed through and hair → hacking → shredding → carding（Into bar）→ drafting (in the lump, two simultaneously) → air spinning → automatic winding, controls relative humidity 50%～55%, 25 DEG C～30 DEG C of temperature wherein in spinning technological process.

With hair technique in, from NimateCF-5 and crude oil, NimateC602 cationic antistatic agents, with nebulization, add account for gross weight 10% and crude oil and account for the antistatic additive of gross weight 10%, make fiber that there is excellent lubricity, increase coherent, the antistatic behaviour of fiber, improve fiber can cardability, contribute to the full and uniform mixing of different performance fiber.

In carding process, feed the hair cycle and grasp 50s～60s, sliver exporting speed is less than 100m/min, and shaping grammes per square metre 5g/m, irregular coefficient are controlled within 2%.

In drawing process, the height slubbing yarn that spinning 25/1 is public, parameter 8.2 in the lump, two and after wool top grammes per square metre control in 4g/m.From import autoleveller draw frame（D45 types）, the uniform coefficient of variation of lower machine wool top grammes per square metre is less than 0.5%～1%.In this process, it is necessary to control drafting multiple, total draft controls 7.8 times, wherein 4.58 times of dominant draft, 1.7 times of follow-up drawing-off.

3）, weaving process：

Warping → gait, plug in reed, inserted sheet → arrow shaft weaving, by the height slubbing yarn of 25/1 public, tissue based on 2/2 twill on rapier loom, looming weaving by the way of single-warp single-abb, upper machine fabric width is 178cm, and upper machine end count is 225/10cm, and filling density is 216/10cm.

4）, postfinishing process：

Final finishing includes：Singe-mono- boil-braying-bis- boil-dry-photocatalyst working fluid pads-dries-TEFLON three-prevention finishings-bake-ripe and repair the steaming of-bristle-cropping-bristle-dewing-tank, in addition, the consumption 30g/l 50g/l of photocatalyst working fluid, pick-up rate 75% 85%, keeps car 25m/min 30m/min, 120 DEG C 135 DEG C of temperature in the use of photocatalyst working fluid, the mangle 75-85% of TEFLON three-prevention finishings processing, speed keeps the 18-22m/min, temperature 160-180 DEG C, last obtained fabric specification to be：Yarn count 96/2-100/2Nm, total tightness degree 145-165, end count 615-796 root/10 centimetre, filling density 400-358 root/10 centimetre, grammes per square metre 340-390 grams m.

Compared with prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects as follows：

The technique number of this lightweight woolen fabric is frivolous along hair fancy suiting into high of slubbing up to 25/1 public slubbing weaving yarns, high of the slubbing is frivolous good along hair fancy suiting fiber coherent and antistatic behaviour, high wool yarn levelness of slubbing is uniform, intensity is big, the frivolous submissive, good hand feeling of fabric, smooth and tool bony.Aethiops vegetabilis fabric lining has insulation and health care double effectses, it is adaptable to the clothing such as T-shirt, underwear, and long-term dress wipes human body molecular mill and produces thermal response, promotes body blood circulation, can play the effect of heat storing and heat preserving.

Specific embodiment

The present invention relates to a kind of technique of lightweight woolen fabric, pass sequentially through variety development, recombing, spinning, weaving, repairing, postfinishing process and make fabric, comprise the following steps that：

1）, yarn variety design：

From wool fiber, cashmere fiber and Sargassum Carbon fibe, to wool fiber, cashmere fiber and Sargassum Carbon fibe carry out anti pilling process, ferment treatment and soft treatment, anti pilling process is from phosphate ester antimony oxide mixture as anti pilling agent, phosphate ester antimony oxide amount of mixture is wool fiber weight 1.5-4%, ferment treatment system is processed using protease, 0.1-0.2% of the albumen enzyme dosage for wool fiber weight, the softening agent that soft treatment is selected is water-soluble organic silicon softening agent, 6-8% of the water-soluble organic silicon softening agent consumption for wool fiber weight；

2）, spinning process：

After dyeing 70% super-fine wool fiber, 30% polyester fiber are passed through and hair → hacking → shredding → carding（Into bar）→ drafting (in the lump, two simultaneously) → air spinning → automatic winding, controls relative humidity 50%～55%, 25 DEG C～30 DEG C of temperature wherein in spinning technological process.

With hair technique in, from NimateCF-5 and crude oil, NimateC602 cationic antistatic agents, with nebulization, add account for gross weight 10% and crude oil and account for the antistatic additive of gross weight 10%, make fiber that there is excellent lubricity, increase coherent, the antistatic behaviour of fiber, improve fiber can cardability, contribute to the full and uniform mixing of different performance fiber.

In carding process, feed the hair cycle and grasp 50s～60s, sliver exporting speed is less than 100m/min, and shaping grammes per square metre 5g/m, irregular coefficient are controlled within 2%.

In drawing process, the height slubbing yarn that spinning 25/1 is public, parameter 8.2 in the lump, two and after wool top grammes per square metre control in 4g/m.From import autoleveller draw frame（D45 types）, the uniform coefficient of variation of lower machine wool top grammes per square metre is less than 0.5%～1%.In this process, it is necessary to control drafting multiple, total draft controls 7.8 times, wherein 4.58 times of dominant draft, 1.7 times of follow-up drawing-off.

3）, weaving process：

Warping → gait, plug in reed, inserted sheet → arrow shaft weaving, by the height slubbing yarn of 25/1 public, tissue based on 2/2 twill on rapier loom, looming weaving by the way of single-warp single-abb, upper machine fabric width is 178cm, and upper machine end count is 225/10cm, and filling density is 216/10cm.

4）, postfinishing process：

Final finishing includes：Singe-mono- boil-braying-bis- boil-dry-photocatalyst working fluid pads-dries-TEFLON three-prevention finishings-bake-ripe and repair the steaming of-bristle-cropping-bristle-dewing-tank, in addition, the consumption 30g/l 50g/l of photocatalyst working fluid, pick-up rate 75% 85%, keeps car 25m/min 30m/min, 120 DEG C 135 DEG C of temperature in the use of photocatalyst working fluid, the mangle 75-85% of TEFLON three-prevention finishings processing, speed keeps the 18-22m/min, temperature 160-180 DEG C, last obtained fabric specification to be：Yarn count 96/2-100/2Nm, total tightness degree 145-165, end count 615-796 root/10 centimetre, filling density 400-358 root/10 centimetre, grammes per square metre 340-390 grams m.

Claims (1)

1. a kind of technique of lightweight woolen fabric, it is characterised in that：This production technology is comprised the following steps that：

1）, yarn variety design：

From wool fiber, cashmere fiber and Sargassum Carbon fibe, to wool fiber, cashmere fiber and Sargassum Carbon fibe carry out anti pilling process, ferment treatment and soft treatment, anti pilling process is from phosphate ester antimony oxide mixture as anti pilling agent, phosphate ester antimony oxide amount of mixture is wool fiber weight 1.5-4%, ferment treatment system is processed using protease, 0.1-0.2% of the albumen enzyme dosage for wool fiber weight, the softening agent that soft treatment is selected is water-soluble organic silicon softening agent, 6-8% of the water-soluble organic silicon softening agent consumption for wool fiber weight；

2）, spinning process：

After dyeing 70% super-fine wool fiber, 30% polyester fiber are passed through and hair → hacking → shredding → carding（Into bar）→ drafting (in the lump, two simultaneously) → air spinning → automatic winding, controls relative humidity 50%～55%, 25 DEG C～30 DEG C of temperature wherein in spinning technological process；

With hair technique in, from NimateCF-5 and crude oil, NimateC602 cationic antistatic agents, with nebulization, add account for gross weight 10% and crude oil and account for the antistatic additive of gross weight 10%, make fiber that there is excellent lubricity, increase coherent, the antistatic behaviour of fiber, improve fiber can cardability, contribute to the full and uniform mixing of different performance fiber；

In carding process, feed the hair cycle and grasp 50s～60s, sliver exporting speed is less than 100m/min, and shaping grammes per square metre 5g/m, irregular coefficient are controlled within 2%；

In drawing process, the height slubbing yarn that spinning 25/1 is public, parameter 8.2 in the lump, two and after wool top grammes per square metre control in 4g/m；

From import autoleveller draw frame（D45 types）, the uniform coefficient of variation of lower machine wool top grammes per square metre is less than 0.5%～1%；

In this process, it is necessary to control drafting multiple, total draft controls 7.8 times, wherein 4.58 times of dominant draft, 1.7 times of follow-up drawing-off；

3）, weaving process：

Warping → gait, plug in reed, inserted sheet → arrow shaft weaving, by the height slubbing yarn of 25/1 public, tissue based on 2/2 twill on rapier loom, looming weaving by the way of single-warp single-abb, upper machine fabric width is 178cm, and upper machine end count is 225/10cm, and filling density is 216/10cm；

4）, postfinishing process：

Final finishing includes：Singe-mono- boil-braying-bis- boil-dry-photocatalyst working fluid pads-dries-TEFLON three-prevention finishings-bake-ripe and repair the steaming of-bristle-cropping-bristle-dewing-tank, in addition, the consumption 30g/l 50g/l of photocatalyst working fluid, pick-up rate 75% 85%, keeps car 25m/min 30m/min, 120 DEG C 135 DEG C of temperature in the use of photocatalyst working fluid, the mangle 75-85% of TEFLON three-prevention finishings processing, speed keeps the 18-22m/min, temperature 160-180 DEG C, last obtained fabric specification to be：Yarn count 96/2-100/2Nm, total tightness degree 145-165, end count 615-796 root/10 centimetre, filling density 400-358 root/10 centimetre, grammes per square metre 340-390 grams m.