CN106405057A - Assessment method for hand feeling of warp-knitted fabric and warp knitting method - Google Patents
Assessment method for hand feeling of warp-knitted fabric and warp knitting method Download PDFInfo
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- CN106405057A CN106405057A CN201510483814.XA CN201510483814A CN106405057A CN 106405057 A CN106405057 A CN 106405057A CN 201510483814 A CN201510483814 A CN 201510483814A CN 106405057 A CN106405057 A CN 106405057A
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- warp
- knitting
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- smoothness
- rigidity
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- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- G01N33/00—Investigating or analysing materials by specific methods not covered by groups G01N1/00 - G01N31/00
- G01N33/36—Textiles
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- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Analytical Chemistry (AREA)
- Food Science & Technology (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
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- Pathology (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides an assessment method for the hand feeling of a warp-knitted fabric and a warp knitting method. The assessment method comprises the following steps: S1) measuring the softness, smoothness or stiffness of a plurality of warp-knitted fabric samples with different weights or/and thicknesses and establishing a BSP tree structure of the softness, smoothness or stiffness of the warp-knitted fabric with the weights and thicknesses of the warp-knitted fabric as position attribute information of sample nodes and the softness, smoothness or stiffness of the warp-knitted fabric samples as the values of the sample nodes; S2) acquiring the weight and thickness of a target warp-knitted fabric; and S3) with weight and thickness of the target warp-knitted fabric as the position attribute information of a target node, calculating the value of the target node according to the BSP tree structure so as to obtain the softness, smoothness or stiffness of the target warp-knitted fabric. The methods disclosed by the invention provide manufacturers for warp-knitted fabrics with a more accurate, more reliable, more durable and simpler production mode.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to fabric arts, the feel appraisal procedure of more particularly, to a kind of WARP-KNITTING and warp knit side
Method.
Background technology
WARP-KNITTING and its performance in terms of fabric feeling to textile industry it is critical that, this is because
Consumer can make the decision bought or do not buy according to fabric feeling.
Guarantee consumer to clothing, the sensation of the clothing especially wearing and acceptance are always critically important
's.When clothing not wearing, much feel to perceive;Therefore, based on human experience and can
Sensibility variable is method the most traditional to the subjective evaluation of fabric feeling.The method is also been described as from tactile
Psychoreaction, this is because the tactile sensing degree of people can according to the age of subjectss, the aqueous degree of skin,
Cultural difference or sex and different.Subjectss are required to be assessed compared with standard fabric and have different fabrics knot
Structure and the feel of the WARP-KNITTING being produced by different braided parameter.The AATCC appraisal procedure 5 (master of fabric
See evaluation guide) (AATCC Evaluation Procedure 5 (Guidelines for the
Subjective Evaluation of Fabric)) it is designed to personal feel assessment.And this requires in assessment
Condition standard under one or more elements of fabric feeling, this is because personal feel assessment is carried out
Under condition can affect result.Unfortunately, these assessment results unreliable, do not have repeatability, and
And can be changed according to country variant.
Additionally, a kind of also objective evaluation method for assessing fabric feeling, the method is by such as fabric river end
Assessment system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, be abbreviated as KES-F) and
PhabrOmeter system (PhabrOmeter system) is realized.The objective evaluation of fabric feeling only passes through really
Determine the different physical characteristics of fabric to realize, these physical characteristics independently rather than simultaneously facilitate comfortable
Degree.Can be provided useful for the engineering WARP-KNITTING of specific purpose using the measurement of different fabric objective measurement systems
Data.However, the cost of objective measurement is higher than the cost of subjective measurement.
Content of the invention
The present invention be directed to existing WARP-KNITTING feel appraisal procedure and unreliable it is impossible to go out target warp for warp knit
Fabric provides the problem of reference it is proposed that a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING and warp knitting method.
The present invention proposes technical scheme below with regard to this technical problem:
The present invention proposes a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING, comprises the following steps:
S1) the measurement weight pliability of multiple sample WARP-KNITTING different with least in thickness, light
Slippery or rigidity;
Using the weight of sample WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of sample node, with this sample warp
The pliability of fabric, smoothness or rigidity as the value of sample node, to set up WARP-KNITTING pliability,
The BSP tree structure of smoothness or rigidity;
S2 weight and the thickness of target WARP-KNITTING) are obtained;
S3) using the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of destination node, and according to
BSP tree Structure Calculation goes out the value of destination node, that is, obtain pliability, the smoothness or firm of target WARP-KNITTING
Degree.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, in step sl, sample WARP-KNITTING
Pliability, smoothness or rigidity adopt AATCC method of testing 202-2013 to measure.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, in step sl, sample WARP-KNITTING
This sample WARP-KNITTING and standard are knitted by pliability, smoothness or rigidity by the multidigit expert from textile industry
Thing is compared to assess and is obtained.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, described step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are the position attribution information of a certain sample node, this target
The pliability of WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are the value of this sample node.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, described step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution information of any one sample node,
The pliability of this target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are two neighbouring with destination node sample node
Value arithmetic average and.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, described step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution information of any one sample node,
Have:
Wherein, define the two sample nodes neighbouring with destination node and be respectively first sample node and the second sample
This node;
Y is the value of destination node, i.e. the pliability of target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
y1Value for first sample node;
y2Value for the second sample node;
l1Distance for destination node and first sample node;
l2Distance for destination node and the second sample node.
The invention allows for a kind of warp knitting method based on feel appraisal procedure as above, including following
Step:
Pliability needed for acquisition target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
Pliability needed for the target WARP-KNITTING getting, the smoothness or rigidity value as destination node,
Search out value closest to the sample node of the value of this destination node in BSP tree structure, and with this sample section
The position attribution information of point, as the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness, is carried out warp knit and is gone out target WARP-KNITTING.
The present invention is by setting up the relation between weight, thickness and its feel of sample WARP-KNITTING, and passes through
BSP tree structure establishes a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING, only passes through to export weight and thickness just may be used
To evaluate the feel of the WARP-KNITTING with this weight and thickness.Meanwhile, present invention also offers a kind of base
In this feel appraisal procedure warp knitting method such that it is able to warp knit go out client needs WARP-KNITTING.The present invention
There is provided more accurate, more reliable, the more robust and simpler mode of production for WARP-KNITTING manufacturer.
Brief description
Below in conjunction with drawings and Examples, the invention will be further described, in accompanying drawing:
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of the BSP tree structure of the embodiment of the present invention.
Specific embodiment
The fabric feeling appraisal procedure of the present invention is not through the situation of subjective measurement and objective measurement, and
Be provide in the case of simple output fabric weight and thickness the pliability of WARP-KNITTING, smoothness and
Rigidity.So, the present invention can when designing and produce product, for WARP-KNITTING manufacturer provide more accurately,
More reliable, the more robust and simpler mode of production.
In order that the technical purpose of the present invention, technical scheme and technique effect are clearer, so that this area
Technical staff understands and implements the present invention, below in conjunction with specific embodiment, the present invention is done further details of
Illustrate.
The present invention proposes a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING, comprises the following steps:
The softness of step 100, the measurement weight multiple sample WARP-KNITTING different with least in thickness
Degree, smoothness or rigidity;Believed using the weight of sample WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution of sample node
Breath, using the pliability of this sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity as the value of sample node, to set up warp
The BSP tree structure of the pliability of fabric, smoothness or rigidity;
In the present invention, the feel of some WARP-KNITTING, that is, pliability, smoothness or rigidity can be by subjectivities
Test or objective examination measure, thus obtaining sample data.
Based on sample data, public for the experience between fabric weight, thickness and feel of prediction fabric feeling
Formula and statistical relationship are developed.
The appraisal procedure of the present invention be based on WARP-KNITTING weight respectively with fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity
Between relation (i), the WARP-KNITTING thickness relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively
And relation (iv) and subjective measurement and objective measurement between for the expert's subjective measurement (iii) is carried out (ii)
's.These relations are all based on what subjective testing or objective examination determined.And the experimental result meeting of these relations
Contribute to developing for predicting pliability, smoothness by the woven base parameter of input weight and thickness
Algorithm with the hand feel performance of rigidity.
The research (I) of the WARP-KNITTING weight relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively
(objective measurement)
The unit of fabric weight is g/cm2;
Fabric feeling performance, that is, pliability, smoothness and rigidity adopt AATCC method of testing 202-2013
(textile is relative to Handle Value:Instrumental method) (AATCC Test Method 202-2013 (Relative
Hand Value of Textiles:Instrumental Method)) measure.
The relation and pliability, smoothness and rigidity between is as follows respectively for fabric weight:
Pliability y=0.6502x2-2.2848x+11.051
Smoothness (surface side) y=0.5244x2-1.5501x+10.765
Smoothness (dorsal part) y=0.3886x2-1.2545x+10.624
Rigidity y=0.2101x2-0.4143x+9.1873
The research (II) of the WARP-KNITTING thickness relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively
(objective measurement)
Fabric thickness adopts calibrator to measure;
Fabric feeling performance, that is, pliability, smoothness and rigidity adopt AATCC method of testing 202-2013
(textile is relative to Handle Value:Instrumental method) (AATCC Test Method 202-2013 (Relative
Hand Value of Textiles:Instrumental Method)) measure.
The relation and pliability, smoothness and rigidity between is as follows respectively for fabric thickness:
Pliability y=0.0629x2-1.1886x+10.069
Smoothness (surface side) y=0.7842x2-1.0838x+10.087
Smoothness (dorsal part) y=1.1951x2-1.8164x+10.32
Rigidity y=-0.0777x2+0.1669x+8.9641
The research (III) of the WARP-KNITTING weight relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively
(subjective measurement)
The unit of fabric weight is g/cm2;
The pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are by the multidigit expert from textile industry by this sample
This WARP-KNITTING to be assessed compared with standard fabric and to obtain.
In the present embodiment, fabric feeling performance, that is, pliability, smoothness and rigidity are by from textile industry
25 experts assessing.
The relation and pliability, smoothness and rigidity between is as follows respectively for fabric weight:
Pliability y=-0.0015x2+0.2492x+2.642
Smoothness (surface side) y=0.0009x2-0.0012x+5.8092
Smoothness (dorsal part) y=0.0046x2-0.1099x+6.2241
Rigidity y=-0.0016x2-0.1649x+8.9053
The research (IV) of the WARP-KNITTING thickness relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively
(subjective measurement)
Fabric thickness adopts calibrator to measure;
The pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are by the multidigit expert from textile industry by this sample
This WARP-KNITTING to be assessed compared with standard fabric and to obtain.
In the present embodiment, fabric feeling performance, that is, pliability, smoothness and rigidity are by from textile industry
25 experts assessing.
The relation and pliability, smoothness and rigidity between is as follows respectively for fabric thickness:
Pliability y=-1.2289x2+5.692x+2.5624
Smoothness (surface side) y=-0.2655x2+2.0128x+4.9503
Smoothness (dorsal part) y=0.6513x2-0.1732x+5.5053
Rigidity y=1.0726x2-5.2214x+9.2866
Then, obtained based on BSP tree structure, the feel of WARP-KNITTING and pliability, smoothness and rigidity
Between relation, that is,:
The pliability of WARP-KNITTING, smoothness and rigidity=f (x1,x2)
Wherein, x1For WARP-KNITTING weight (g/cm2);X2 is WARP-KNITTING thickness (mm).
In the present embodiment, with the weight of sample WARP-KNITTING as x-axis, the thickness with sample WARP-KNITTING is
Y-axis, with the pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity as z-axis, so, woven with sample
Thing corresponding sample node can determine in xyz coordinate system.In this xyz coordinate system, by all samples
Smooth surface f (x, y) that this node is constituted is BSP tree structure, as shown in Figure 1.
Step 200, the weight obtaining target WARP-KNITTING and thickness;
Here, the unit of target WARP-KNITTING weight is g/cm2;Target WARP-KNITTING thickness is mm.
Step 300, using the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of destination node, and
Go out the value of destination node according to BSP tree Structure Calculation, that is, obtain the pliability of target WARP-KNITTING, smooth
Degree or rigidity.
In this step, if the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are the position attribution letter of a certain sample node
Breath, then the pliability of this target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are the value of this sample node.
Meanwhile, if the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution letter of any one sample node
Breath, then the pliability of this target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are two neighbouring with destination node sample
The arithmetic average of the value of node and.
When the quantity of the sample node in BSP tree structure is enough, using above-mentioned target WARP-KNITTING
The computational methods of pliability, smoothness or rigidity be accurate.
If when the negligible amounts of the sample node in BSP tree structure, above-mentioned computational methods just have very big
Error.In order to reduce error, in other embodiments, if the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not
The position attribution information of any one sample node, then have:
Wherein, define the two sample nodes neighbouring with destination node and be respectively first sample node and the second sample
This node;
Y is the value of destination node, i.e. the pliability of target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
y1Value for first sample node;
y2Value for the second sample node;
l1Distance for destination node and first sample node;
l2Distance for destination node and the second sample node.
Further, present invention also offers a kind of warp knit side based on feel appraisal procedure as above
Method, comprises the following steps:
Pliability needed for acquisition target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
Pliability needed for the target WARP-KNITTING getting, the smoothness or rigidity value as destination node,
Search out value closest to the sample node of the value of this destination node in BSP tree structure, and with this sample section
The position attribution information of point, as the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness, is carried out warp knit and is gone out target WARP-KNITTING.
The present invention is by setting up the relation between weight, thickness and its feel of sample WARP-KNITTING, and passes through
BSP tree structure establishes a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING, only passes through to export weight and thickness just may be used
To evaluate the feel of the WARP-KNITTING with this weight and thickness.Meanwhile, present invention also offers a kind of base
In this feel appraisal procedure warp knitting method such that it is able to warp knit go out client needs WARP-KNITTING.The present invention
There is provided more accurate, more reliable, the more robust and simpler mode of production for WARP-KNITTING manufacturer.
It should be appreciated that for those of ordinary skills, can be improved according to the above description
Or conversion, and all these modifications and variations all should belong to the protection domain of claims of the present invention.
Claims (7)
1. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING is it is characterised in that comprise the following steps:
S1) the measurement weight pliability of multiple sample WARP-KNITTING different with least in thickness,
Smoothness or rigidity;
Using the weight of sample WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of sample node, with this sample
The pliability of WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity, as the value of sample node, to set up the soft of WARP-KNITTING
The BSP tree structure of softness, smoothness or rigidity;
S2 weight and the thickness of target WARP-KNITTING) are obtained;
S3) using the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of destination node, and root
Go out the value of destination node according to BSP tree Structure Calculation, that is, obtain pliability, the smoothness of target WARP-KNITTING
Or rigidity.
2. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that in step
In rapid S1, the pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity adopt AATCC method of testing 202-2013
Measurement.
3. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that in step
In rapid S1, the pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are by the multidigit expert from textile industry
This sample WARP-KNITTING to be assessed compared with standard fabric and obtains.
4. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described
Step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are the position attribution information of a certain sample node, this mesh
The pliability of mark WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or the value that rigidity is this sample node.
5. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described
Step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution information of any one sample node,
Then the pliability of this target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are two neighbouring with destination node sample section
Point the arithmetic average of value and.
6. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described
Step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution information of any one sample node,
Then have:
Wherein, define the two sample nodes neighbouring with destination node and be respectively first sample node and second
Sample node;
Y is the value of destination node, i.e. the pliability of target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
y1Value for first sample node;
y2Value for the second sample node;
l1Distance for destination node and first sample node;
l2Distance for destination node and the second sample node.
7. a kind of warp knitting method based on the feel appraisal procedure as described in claim 1-6 any one,
It is characterized in that, comprise the following steps:
Pliability needed for acquisition target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
Pliability needed for the target WARP-KNITTING getting, the smoothness or rigidity value as destination node,
Search out value closest to the sample node of the value of this destination node in BSP tree structure, and with this sample section
The position attribution information of point, as the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness, is carried out warp knit and is gone out target WARP-KNITTING.
Priority Applications (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CN201510483814.XA CN106405057B (en) | 2015-08-03 | 2015-08-03 | The feel appraisal procedure and warp knitting method of knitted fabric |
PCT/CN2015/086639 WO2017020331A1 (en) | 2015-08-03 | 2015-08-11 | Hand-feel evaluation method for warp-knitting fabric, and warp-knitting method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CN201510483814.XA CN106405057B (en) | 2015-08-03 | 2015-08-03 | The feel appraisal procedure and warp knitting method of knitted fabric |
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Publication Number | Publication Date |
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CN106405057A true CN106405057A (en) | 2017-02-15 |
CN106405057B CN106405057B (en) | 2018-08-14 |
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CN201510483814.XA Expired - Fee Related CN106405057B (en) | 2015-08-03 | 2015-08-03 | The feel appraisal procedure and warp knitting method of knitted fabric |
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CN (1) | CN106405057B (en) |
WO (1) | WO2017020331A1 (en) |
Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPH06174717A (en) * | 1992-12-07 | 1994-06-24 | Unitika Ltd | Measuring method for moisture feel of cloth |
CN101178397A (en) * | 2007-12-03 | 2008-05-14 | 苏州工业园区慧博自动化技术有限公司 | Fabrics hand-feel emulation system tester |
WO2012104627A2 (en) * | 2011-01-31 | 2012-08-09 | University Of Leeds | Evaluation apparatus and method |
CN103823046A (en) * | 2014-03-11 | 2014-05-28 | 苏州大学 | Objective evaluation method for fabric touch hand feeling and wearing comfort |
CN104698155A (en) * | 2013-12-09 | 2015-06-10 | 香港纺织及成衣研发中心有限公司 | Measurement method and measurement system of fabric ultraviolet protection coefficient |
-
2015
- 2015-08-03 CN CN201510483814.XA patent/CN106405057B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2015-08-11 WO PCT/CN2015/086639 patent/WO2017020331A1/en active Application Filing
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPH06174717A (en) * | 1992-12-07 | 1994-06-24 | Unitika Ltd | Measuring method for moisture feel of cloth |
CN101178397A (en) * | 2007-12-03 | 2008-05-14 | 苏州工业园区慧博自动化技术有限公司 | Fabrics hand-feel emulation system tester |
WO2012104627A2 (en) * | 2011-01-31 | 2012-08-09 | University Of Leeds | Evaluation apparatus and method |
CN104698155A (en) * | 2013-12-09 | 2015-06-10 | 香港纺织及成衣研发中心有限公司 | Measurement method and measurement system of fabric ultraviolet protection coefficient |
CN103823046A (en) * | 2014-03-11 | 2014-05-28 | 苏州大学 | Objective evaluation method for fabric touch hand feeling and wearing comfort |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
孙晶晶等: "织物手感风格客观评价方法的比较", 《现实纺织技术》 * |
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Publication number | Publication date |
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WO2017020331A1 (en) | 2017-02-09 |
CN106405057B (en) | 2018-08-14 |
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