CN106405057A - Assessment method for hand feeling of warp-knitted fabric and warp knitting method - Google Patents

Assessment method for hand feeling of warp-knitted fabric and warp knitting method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106405057A
CN106405057A CN201510483814.XA CN201510483814A CN106405057A CN 106405057 A CN106405057 A CN 106405057A CN 201510483814 A CN201510483814 A CN 201510483814A CN 106405057 A CN106405057 A CN 106405057A
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warp
knitting
sample
smoothness
rigidity
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CN106405057B (en
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简志伟
吴新培
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Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel Ltd
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Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel Ltd
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Priority to PCT/CN2015/086639 priority patent/WO2017020331A1/en
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    • GPHYSICS
    • G01MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01NINVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N33/00Investigating or analysing materials by specific methods not covered by groups G01N1/00 - G01N31/00
    • G01N33/36Textiles

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Analytical Chemistry (AREA)
  • Food Science & Technology (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Immunology (AREA)
  • Pathology (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides an assessment method for the hand feeling of a warp-knitted fabric and a warp knitting method. The assessment method comprises the following steps: S1) measuring the softness, smoothness or stiffness of a plurality of warp-knitted fabric samples with different weights or/and thicknesses and establishing a BSP tree structure of the softness, smoothness or stiffness of the warp-knitted fabric with the weights and thicknesses of the warp-knitted fabric as position attribute information of sample nodes and the softness, smoothness or stiffness of the warp-knitted fabric samples as the values of the sample nodes; S2) acquiring the weight and thickness of a target warp-knitted fabric; and S3) with weight and thickness of the target warp-knitted fabric as the position attribute information of a target node, calculating the value of the target node according to the BSP tree structure so as to obtain the softness, smoothness or stiffness of the target warp-knitted fabric. The methods disclosed by the invention provide manufacturers for warp-knitted fabrics with a more accurate, more reliable, more durable and simpler production mode.

Description

The feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING and warp knitting method
Technical field
The present invention relates to fabric arts, the feel appraisal procedure of more particularly, to a kind of WARP-KNITTING and warp knit side Method.
Background technology
WARP-KNITTING and its performance in terms of fabric feeling to textile industry it is critical that, this is because Consumer can make the decision bought or do not buy according to fabric feeling.
Guarantee consumer to clothing, the sensation of the clothing especially wearing and acceptance are always critically important 's.When clothing not wearing, much feel to perceive;Therefore, based on human experience and can Sensibility variable is method the most traditional to the subjective evaluation of fabric feeling.The method is also been described as from tactile Psychoreaction, this is because the tactile sensing degree of people can according to the age of subjectss, the aqueous degree of skin, Cultural difference or sex and different.Subjectss are required to be assessed compared with standard fabric and have different fabrics knot Structure and the feel of the WARP-KNITTING being produced by different braided parameter.The AATCC appraisal procedure 5 (master of fabric See evaluation guide) (AATCC Evaluation Procedure 5 (Guidelines for the Subjective Evaluation of Fabric)) it is designed to personal feel assessment.And this requires in assessment Condition standard under one or more elements of fabric feeling, this is because personal feel assessment is carried out Under condition can affect result.Unfortunately, these assessment results unreliable, do not have repeatability, and And can be changed according to country variant.
Additionally, a kind of also objective evaluation method for assessing fabric feeling, the method is by such as fabric river end Assessment system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, be abbreviated as KES-F) and PhabrOmeter system (PhabrOmeter system) is realized.The objective evaluation of fabric feeling only passes through really Determine the different physical characteristics of fabric to realize, these physical characteristics independently rather than simultaneously facilitate comfortable Degree.Can be provided useful for the engineering WARP-KNITTING of specific purpose using the measurement of different fabric objective measurement systems Data.However, the cost of objective measurement is higher than the cost of subjective measurement.
Content of the invention
The present invention be directed to existing WARP-KNITTING feel appraisal procedure and unreliable it is impossible to go out target warp for warp knit Fabric provides the problem of reference it is proposed that a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING and warp knitting method.
The present invention proposes technical scheme below with regard to this technical problem:
The present invention proposes a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING, comprises the following steps:
S1) the measurement weight pliability of multiple sample WARP-KNITTING different with least in thickness, light Slippery or rigidity;
Using the weight of sample WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of sample node, with this sample warp The pliability of fabric, smoothness or rigidity as the value of sample node, to set up WARP-KNITTING pliability, The BSP tree structure of smoothness or rigidity;
S2 weight and the thickness of target WARP-KNITTING) are obtained;
S3) using the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of destination node, and according to BSP tree Structure Calculation goes out the value of destination node, that is, obtain pliability, the smoothness or firm of target WARP-KNITTING Degree.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, in step sl, sample WARP-KNITTING Pliability, smoothness or rigidity adopt AATCC method of testing 202-2013 to measure.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, in step sl, sample WARP-KNITTING This sample WARP-KNITTING and standard are knitted by pliability, smoothness or rigidity by the multidigit expert from textile industry Thing is compared to assess and is obtained.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, described step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are the position attribution information of a certain sample node, this target The pliability of WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are the value of this sample node.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, described step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution information of any one sample node, The pliability of this target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are two neighbouring with destination node sample node Value arithmetic average and.
In the feel appraisal procedure of the above-mentioned WARP-KNITTING of the present invention, described step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution information of any one sample node, Have:
Wherein, define the two sample nodes neighbouring with destination node and be respectively first sample node and the second sample This node;
Y is the value of destination node, i.e. the pliability of target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
y1Value for first sample node;
y2Value for the second sample node;
l1Distance for destination node and first sample node;
l2Distance for destination node and the second sample node.
The invention allows for a kind of warp knitting method based on feel appraisal procedure as above, including following Step:
Pliability needed for acquisition target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
Pliability needed for the target WARP-KNITTING getting, the smoothness or rigidity value as destination node, Search out value closest to the sample node of the value of this destination node in BSP tree structure, and with this sample section The position attribution information of point, as the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness, is carried out warp knit and is gone out target WARP-KNITTING.
The present invention is by setting up the relation between weight, thickness and its feel of sample WARP-KNITTING, and passes through BSP tree structure establishes a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING, only passes through to export weight and thickness just may be used To evaluate the feel of the WARP-KNITTING with this weight and thickness.Meanwhile, present invention also offers a kind of base In this feel appraisal procedure warp knitting method such that it is able to warp knit go out client needs WARP-KNITTING.The present invention There is provided more accurate, more reliable, the more robust and simpler mode of production for WARP-KNITTING manufacturer.
Brief description
Below in conjunction with drawings and Examples, the invention will be further described, in accompanying drawing:
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of the BSP tree structure of the embodiment of the present invention.
Specific embodiment
The fabric feeling appraisal procedure of the present invention is not through the situation of subjective measurement and objective measurement, and Be provide in the case of simple output fabric weight and thickness the pliability of WARP-KNITTING, smoothness and Rigidity.So, the present invention can when designing and produce product, for WARP-KNITTING manufacturer provide more accurately, More reliable, the more robust and simpler mode of production.
In order that the technical purpose of the present invention, technical scheme and technique effect are clearer, so that this area Technical staff understands and implements the present invention, below in conjunction with specific embodiment, the present invention is done further details of Illustrate.
The present invention proposes a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING, comprises the following steps:
The softness of step 100, the measurement weight multiple sample WARP-KNITTING different with least in thickness Degree, smoothness or rigidity;Believed using the weight of sample WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution of sample node Breath, using the pliability of this sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity as the value of sample node, to set up warp The BSP tree structure of the pliability of fabric, smoothness or rigidity;
In the present invention, the feel of some WARP-KNITTING, that is, pliability, smoothness or rigidity can be by subjectivities Test or objective examination measure, thus obtaining sample data.
Based on sample data, public for the experience between fabric weight, thickness and feel of prediction fabric feeling Formula and statistical relationship are developed.
The appraisal procedure of the present invention be based on WARP-KNITTING weight respectively with fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity Between relation (i), the WARP-KNITTING thickness relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively And relation (iv) and subjective measurement and objective measurement between for the expert's subjective measurement (iii) is carried out (ii) 's.These relations are all based on what subjective testing or objective examination determined.And the experimental result meeting of these relations Contribute to developing for predicting pliability, smoothness by the woven base parameter of input weight and thickness Algorithm with the hand feel performance of rigidity.
The research (I) of the WARP-KNITTING weight relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively (objective measurement)
The unit of fabric weight is g/cm2
Fabric feeling performance, that is, pliability, smoothness and rigidity adopt AATCC method of testing 202-2013 (textile is relative to Handle Value:Instrumental method) (AATCC Test Method 202-2013 (Relative Hand Value of Textiles:Instrumental Method)) measure.
The relation and pliability, smoothness and rigidity between is as follows respectively for fabric weight:
Pliability y=0.6502x2-2.2848x+11.051
Smoothness (surface side) y=0.5244x2-1.5501x+10.765
Smoothness (dorsal part) y=0.3886x2-1.2545x+10.624
Rigidity y=0.2101x2-0.4143x+9.1873
The research (II) of the WARP-KNITTING thickness relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively (objective measurement)
Fabric thickness adopts calibrator to measure;
Fabric feeling performance, that is, pliability, smoothness and rigidity adopt AATCC method of testing 202-2013 (textile is relative to Handle Value:Instrumental method) (AATCC Test Method 202-2013 (Relative Hand Value of Textiles:Instrumental Method)) measure.
The relation and pliability, smoothness and rigidity between is as follows respectively for fabric thickness:
Pliability y=0.0629x2-1.1886x+10.069
Smoothness (surface side) y=0.7842x2-1.0838x+10.087
Smoothness (dorsal part) y=1.1951x2-1.8164x+10.32
Rigidity y=-0.0777x2+0.1669x+8.9641
The research (III) of the WARP-KNITTING weight relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively (subjective measurement)
The unit of fabric weight is g/cm2
The pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are by the multidigit expert from textile industry by this sample This WARP-KNITTING to be assessed compared with standard fabric and to obtain.
In the present embodiment, fabric feeling performance, that is, pliability, smoothness and rigidity are by from textile industry 25 experts assessing.
The relation and pliability, smoothness and rigidity between is as follows respectively for fabric weight:
Pliability y=-0.0015x2+0.2492x+2.642
Smoothness (surface side) y=0.0009x2-0.0012x+5.8092
Smoothness (dorsal part) y=0.0046x2-0.1099x+6.2241
Rigidity y=-0.0016x2-0.1649x+8.9053
The research (IV) of the WARP-KNITTING thickness relation and fabric softness, smoothness and rigidity between respectively (subjective measurement)
Fabric thickness adopts calibrator to measure;
The pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are by the multidigit expert from textile industry by this sample This WARP-KNITTING to be assessed compared with standard fabric and to obtain.
In the present embodiment, fabric feeling performance, that is, pliability, smoothness and rigidity are by from textile industry 25 experts assessing.
The relation and pliability, smoothness and rigidity between is as follows respectively for fabric thickness:
Pliability y=-1.2289x2+5.692x+2.5624
Smoothness (surface side) y=-0.2655x2+2.0128x+4.9503
Smoothness (dorsal part) y=0.6513x2-0.1732x+5.5053
Rigidity y=1.0726x2-5.2214x+9.2866
Then, obtained based on BSP tree structure, the feel of WARP-KNITTING and pliability, smoothness and rigidity Between relation, that is,:
The pliability of WARP-KNITTING, smoothness and rigidity=f (x1,x2)
Wherein, x1For WARP-KNITTING weight (g/cm2);X2 is WARP-KNITTING thickness (mm).
In the present embodiment, with the weight of sample WARP-KNITTING as x-axis, the thickness with sample WARP-KNITTING is Y-axis, with the pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity as z-axis, so, woven with sample Thing corresponding sample node can determine in xyz coordinate system.In this xyz coordinate system, by all samples Smooth surface f (x, y) that this node is constituted is BSP tree structure, as shown in Figure 1.
Step 200, the weight obtaining target WARP-KNITTING and thickness;
Here, the unit of target WARP-KNITTING weight is g/cm2;Target WARP-KNITTING thickness is mm.
Step 300, using the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of destination node, and Go out the value of destination node according to BSP tree Structure Calculation, that is, obtain the pliability of target WARP-KNITTING, smooth Degree or rigidity.
In this step, if the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are the position attribution letter of a certain sample node Breath, then the pliability of this target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are the value of this sample node.
Meanwhile, if the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution letter of any one sample node Breath, then the pliability of this target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are two neighbouring with destination node sample The arithmetic average of the value of node and.
When the quantity of the sample node in BSP tree structure is enough, using above-mentioned target WARP-KNITTING The computational methods of pliability, smoothness or rigidity be accurate.
If when the negligible amounts of the sample node in BSP tree structure, above-mentioned computational methods just have very big Error.In order to reduce error, in other embodiments, if the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not The position attribution information of any one sample node, then have:
Wherein, define the two sample nodes neighbouring with destination node and be respectively first sample node and the second sample This node;
Y is the value of destination node, i.e. the pliability of target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
y1Value for first sample node;
y2Value for the second sample node;
l1Distance for destination node and first sample node;
l2Distance for destination node and the second sample node.
Further, present invention also offers a kind of warp knit side based on feel appraisal procedure as above Method, comprises the following steps:
Pliability needed for acquisition target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
Pliability needed for the target WARP-KNITTING getting, the smoothness or rigidity value as destination node, Search out value closest to the sample node of the value of this destination node in BSP tree structure, and with this sample section The position attribution information of point, as the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness, is carried out warp knit and is gone out target WARP-KNITTING.
The present invention is by setting up the relation between weight, thickness and its feel of sample WARP-KNITTING, and passes through BSP tree structure establishes a kind of feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING, only passes through to export weight and thickness just may be used To evaluate the feel of the WARP-KNITTING with this weight and thickness.Meanwhile, present invention also offers a kind of base In this feel appraisal procedure warp knitting method such that it is able to warp knit go out client needs WARP-KNITTING.The present invention There is provided more accurate, more reliable, the more robust and simpler mode of production for WARP-KNITTING manufacturer.
It should be appreciated that for those of ordinary skills, can be improved according to the above description Or conversion, and all these modifications and variations all should belong to the protection domain of claims of the present invention.

Claims (7)

1. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING is it is characterised in that comprise the following steps:
S1) the measurement weight pliability of multiple sample WARP-KNITTING different with least in thickness, Smoothness or rigidity;
Using the weight of sample WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of sample node, with this sample The pliability of WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity, as the value of sample node, to set up the soft of WARP-KNITTING The BSP tree structure of softness, smoothness or rigidity;
S2 weight and the thickness of target WARP-KNITTING) are obtained;
S3) using the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness as the position attribution information of destination node, and root Go out the value of destination node according to BSP tree Structure Calculation, that is, obtain pliability, the smoothness of target WARP-KNITTING Or rigidity.
2. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that in step In rapid S1, the pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity adopt AATCC method of testing 202-2013 Measurement.
3. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that in step In rapid S1, the pliability of sample WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are by the multidigit expert from textile industry This sample WARP-KNITTING to be assessed compared with standard fabric and obtains.
4. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described Step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are the position attribution information of a certain sample node, this mesh The pliability of mark WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or the value that rigidity is this sample node.
5. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described Step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution information of any one sample node, Then the pliability of this target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity are two neighbouring with destination node sample section Point the arithmetic average of value and.
6. the feel appraisal procedure of WARP-KNITTING according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described Step S3 also includes:
If the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness are not the position attribution information of any one sample node, Then have:
y = l 2 y 1 + l 1 y 2 l 1 + l 2
Wherein, define the two sample nodes neighbouring with destination node and be respectively first sample node and second Sample node;
Y is the value of destination node, i.e. the pliability of target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
y1Value for first sample node;
y2Value for the second sample node;
l1Distance for destination node and first sample node;
l2Distance for destination node and the second sample node.
7. a kind of warp knitting method based on the feel appraisal procedure as described in claim 1-6 any one, It is characterized in that, comprise the following steps:
Pliability needed for acquisition target WARP-KNITTING, smoothness or rigidity;
Pliability needed for the target WARP-KNITTING getting, the smoothness or rigidity value as destination node, Search out value closest to the sample node of the value of this destination node in BSP tree structure, and with this sample section The position attribution information of point, as the weight of target WARP-KNITTING and thickness, is carried out warp knit and is gone out target WARP-KNITTING.
CN201510483814.XA 2015-08-03 2015-08-03 The feel appraisal procedure and warp knitting method of knitted fabric Expired - Fee Related CN106405057B (en)

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PCT/CN2015/086639 WO2017020331A1 (en) 2015-08-03 2015-08-11 Hand-feel evaluation method for warp-knitting fabric, and warp-knitting method

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH06174717A (en) * 1992-12-07 1994-06-24 Unitika Ltd Measuring method for moisture feel of cloth
CN101178397A (en) * 2007-12-03 2008-05-14 苏州工业园区慧博自动化技术有限公司 Fabrics hand-feel emulation system tester
WO2012104627A2 (en) * 2011-01-31 2012-08-09 University Of Leeds Evaluation apparatus and method
CN103823046A (en) * 2014-03-11 2014-05-28 苏州大学 Objective evaluation method for fabric touch hand feeling and wearing comfort
CN104698155A (en) * 2013-12-09 2015-06-10 香港纺织及成衣研发中心有限公司 Measurement method and measurement system of fabric ultraviolet protection coefficient

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH06174717A (en) * 1992-12-07 1994-06-24 Unitika Ltd Measuring method for moisture feel of cloth
CN101178397A (en) * 2007-12-03 2008-05-14 苏州工业园区慧博自动化技术有限公司 Fabrics hand-feel emulation system tester
WO2012104627A2 (en) * 2011-01-31 2012-08-09 University Of Leeds Evaluation apparatus and method
CN104698155A (en) * 2013-12-09 2015-06-10 香港纺织及成衣研发中心有限公司 Measurement method and measurement system of fabric ultraviolet protection coefficient
CN103823046A (en) * 2014-03-11 2014-05-28 苏州大学 Objective evaluation method for fabric touch hand feeling and wearing comfort

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
孙晶晶等: "织物手感风格客观评价方法的比较", 《现实纺织技术》 *

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