CN105816351A - Cosmetic composition containing polyurethane dispersion - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition containing polyurethane dispersion Download PDFInfo
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- CN105816351A CN105816351A CN201510018079.5A CN201510018079A CN105816351A CN 105816351 A CN105816351 A CN 105816351A CN 201510018079 A CN201510018079 A CN 201510018079A CN 105816351 A CN105816351 A CN 105816351A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing polyurethane dispersion, a preparation method and a purpose thereof. Concretely, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing the polyurethane dispersion used as a skin protector.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic composition containing dispersions of polyurethanes and its production and use.Specifically, the present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic composition containing dispersions of polyurethanes as sun screen.
Background technology
Nowadays, increasing people uses sun screen to allow skin be easier to makeup, makeup anti-avulsion adornment uniform, anti-.But, current sun screen endurance is inadequate, does not has film property, it is impossible to reach the effect of the isolation color make-up desired by people and skin.
Meanwhile, the use of sun screen adds people to makeup removal products and the needs of cleaning product.With the quickening pace of modern life, people's always idea manages can utilize the time efficiently, it is desirably isolated frost and can have enhancing foundation cream or other cosmetics adhesive force to skin, thus promote face color make-up flatness, prevent effect that color make-up comes off, and there is good skinfeel, can make only just with hot water can remove ornaments and formal dress and clean face simultaneously, thus shorten the time that people spend in makeup removing.
Therefore those skilled in the art are devoted to find a kind of cosmetic composition that only just can remove ornaments and formal dress and clean face with hot water always.Said composition can be applied on skin before foundation cream or other cosmetics, thus isolation cosmetic, make cosmetics be more easy to shed when with hot water injection, and strengthen the cosmetics adhesive force to skin.
Summary of the invention
It is an object of the invention to provide a kind of cosmetic composition comprising dispersions of polyurethanes, in particular as the cosmetic composition of sun screen.
In one embodiment, the invention provides a kind of cosmetic composition comprising dispersions of polyurethanes, it comprises:
A) at least one dispersions of polyurethanes A),
B) at least one thickening agent B), and
C) the acceptable medium of cosmetics.
Wherein, dispersions of polyurethanes A) it is the thin film for being formed on skin, so that foundation cream or eye adornment, lip adornment are with skin laminating more closely, effect is more longlasting；Meanwhile, when mixing with hot water, it is possible to reach the effect quickly removed ornaments and formal dress.And thickening agent can be used to thickening emulsion, to realize seriality, thus bring preferable skinfeel.
Wherein, dispersions of polyurethanes A) the isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymer A1 of one or more water-insolubles, nonaqueous dispersion can be passed through) with one or more amino-functional compounds A2) react and obtain.
In one embodiment, dispersions of polyurethanes A in cosmetic composition of the present invention) it is preferably anion polyurethane, more preferably polyurethane-32, polyurethane-34, polyurethane-35 and polyurethane-48.
In one embodiment, thickening agent B) comprise the thickening agent of polymer and/or the thickening agent of natural origin.And polymer viscosifier comprises anionic thickening polymer agent, amphoteric ion polymer thickening agent and/or Nonionic polymeric thickeners.In one embodiment, thickening agent B in cosmetic composition of the present invention) it is preferably anionic thickening polymer agent and/or Nonionic polymeric thickeners.
In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention optionally comprises nonionic surfactant.
In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention optionally comprises emulsifying agent.
In yet, the cosmetic composition of the present invention optionally comprises colorant.
In yet, the cosmetic composition of the present invention the most optionally comprises isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether.
In a further embodiment, the present invention also provides for the cosmetic composition of the present invention and is used as the sun screen purposes with isolation color make-up with skin.
In a further embodiment, the present invention also provides for the cosmetic composition purposes as makeup removing of the present invention.
Accompanying drawing illustrates:
Fig. 1 show the impact on the washing property of compositions of the different content of thickening agent ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/vinyl acetate copolymer (AVC).
Before and after Fig. 2 show flushing 0.5min, the variation tendency of the L/A/B value of the compositions of embodiment 5-7.
Before and after Fig. 3 show flushing 1min, the variation tendency of the L/A/B value of the compositions of embodiment 5-7.
Fig. 4 show differenceThe impact on the washing property of compositions of the C1000 content.Wherein Ref represents and does not applies the present composition and directly smear color make-up and then wash the result of acquisition.
Fig. 5 show differenceThe impact on the washing property of compositions of the C1000 content.
Fig. 6 show by chromascope method evaluation and test differenceThe impact on the washing property of compositions of the C1000 content.
Fig. 7 show by chromascope method evaluation and test differenceThe impact on the washing property of compositions of the C1000 content.
Fig. 8 show by chromascope method evaluation and test differenceThe impact on the washing property of compositions of the C1000 content.
Fig. 9 show by chromascope method evaluation and test differenceThe impact on the washing property of compositions of the C1000 content.
Figure 10 show 10 volunteers to differenceThe white cotton fiber phenomenon that the compositions of C1000 content produces is marked.
Figure 11 show the impact on color make-up Yu skin adhesive force of the embodiment of the present invention compositions.
Figure 12 show the skin L/A/B value figure before and after cotton pads wiping.
Figure 13 show the impact on color make-up Yu skin adhesive force of the embodiment of the present invention compositions.
Figure 14 show the skin L/A/B value figure before and after cotton pads wiping.
Detailed description of the invention
Within the scope of the invention, term " water-insoluble, the polyurethane prepolymer of nonaqueous dispersion " refers to, this prepolymer dissolubility in water at 23 DEG C is less than 10g/ liter, preferably shorter than 5g/ liter, and prepolymer cannot produce the dispersion of settlement stability at 23 DEG C in water (especially deionized water).In other words, in the experiment it being dispersed in water, prepolymer is precipitated out.
Preferably, polyurethane prepolymer A1 used according to the invention) there is terminal isocyanate group, i.e. this NCO is at the chain end of prepolymer.Whole chain ends of prepolymer particularly preferably have NCO.
In addition, polyurethane prepolymer A1 used according to the invention) the most neither there is ionic group the most not there is ionogenic group, i.e. the content of ionic group and ionogenic group is suitably less than the polyurethane prepolymer A1 of 15 milliequivalents (Milliequivalent)/100g), preferably shorter than 5 milliequivalents, especially preferably less than 1 milliequivalent and be very particularly preferably less than the polyurethane prepolymer A1 of 0.1 milliequivalent/100g).
Amino-functional compounds A2) it is preferably selected from primary and/or secondary amine and/or diamidogen.Especially, amino-functional compounds A2) include at least one diamidogen.Amino-functional compounds A2) preferably there is amino-functional compounds A2-II of ionic group or ionogenic group), and not there is amino-functional compounds A2-I of ionic group or ionogenic group).
In particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, amino-functional compounds A2) include that there is ion and/or at least one amino-functional compounds A2-II of ion source (ion formation) group).The ionic group used and/or ionogenic group are particularly preferably sulfonate group or sulfonic acid group, even more preferably sodium group.
In the embodiment of present invention further optimization, amino-functional compounds A2) include amino-functional compounds A2-II with ionic group and/or ionogenic group) and not there is amino-functional compounds A2-I of ionic group or ionogenic group) both.
According to the cosmetic composition of the present invention, wherein polyurethane is the most substantially presented in non-dissolving.In addition to other liquid medium such as solvent that may be present, water usually constitutes the main component (＞ 50wt%) of dispersion medium, and this is based on the total amount meter of liquid dispersion medium in cosmetic composition.
For acid ion group and/or ionogenic group, polyurethane prepolymer A1) acid number suitably less than 30mgKOH/g prepolymer, preferably shorter than 10mgKOH/g prepolymer.This acid number represents the potassium hydroxide quality (mg) (measuring according to DINENISO211) required for neutralizing the study sample of 1g.The acid (i.e. corresponding salt) neutralized the most does not has acid number or has the acid number of attenuating.According to the present invention, the acid number of corresponding free acid is here conclusive.
Prepolymer A1 in the preparation of polyurethane) preferably can carry out reacting obtaining by one or more polyhydric alcohol in polyether polyol, polycarbonate polyol, polyether polycarbonate polyhydric alcohol and/or PEPA and polyisocyanates, this also will be explained below explaining.
Particularly preferred polyurethane is obtained by using polyether polyol and/or polymer poly carbonate polyol and/or polyether-polycarbonate polyhydric alcohol or PEPA, there is each of in these polymer the number-average molecular weight (here and for following molecular weight data, this molecular weight is to be measured relative to polystyrene standards at 23 DEG C in oxolane by gel permeation chromatography) of preferably from about 400-about 6000g/mol.In the preparation process of polyurethane or polyurethane prepolymer, the result owing to reacting to polyisocyanates is caused in polyurethane corresponding polyethers and/or Merlon and/or polyether-polycarbonate segment or the formation of polyester segment by their use, and this polyurethane has the corresponding molecular weight of these segments.According to the present invention, particularly preferably from the polyurethane that there is the polyether glycol of linear structure and/or polymer poly carbonate diol and/or polyether-polycarbonate polyhydric alcohol or PEPA obtains.
Dispersions of polyurethanes A according to the present invention) it is preferably linear molecule, but may also be branched.
Dispersions of polyurethanes A preferably used according to the invention) number-average molecular weight be, such as, about 1000-200000, preferably from about 5000 to about 150000.
According to the dispersions of polyurethanes A contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention) especially add in described compositions with aqueous dispersion.
Known component can be used to obtain by method well known in the prior art according to the optimization polyurethane used by the present invention or dispersions of polyurethanes, the open CN101980689A of such as Chinese patent, it is hereby incorporated by reference in full.Corresponding step is summarized as follows:
A) the isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymer A1 formed by following components is prepared)
Organic multiple isocyanate,
Polymer polyatomic alcohol, preferably there is the number-average molecular weight of 400-8000g/mol (here with for following molecular weight data, measured relative to polystyrene standards at 23 DEG C in oxolane by gel permeation chromatography), more preferably 400-6000g/mol and particularly preferred 600-3000g/mol, with there is preferred 1.5-6, the OH degree of functionality of more preferably 1.8-3, particularly preferred 1.9-2.1
The hydroxy functional compound of the optional molecular weight with preferred 62-399g/mol, and
Optional non-ionic hydrophilized reagent, and
B) some or all dissociateive NCOs then allowing them are rolled into a ball and one or more amino-functional compounds A2), as primary and/or secondary amine and/or diamidogen react.Polyurethane used according to the invention preferably before step b), during or after be dispersed in water.
In step b), the reaction with diamidogen or two or more diamidogen is particularly preferably carried out with chain extension.In this respect, the amine of simple function can add additionally as chain terminating agent to control molecular weight.
As component A2), enable in particular to use the amine (following component A2-I) without ionic group or ionogenic group (such as anionic hydrophilic group)), and be possibly used there is ionic group or the amine (following component A2-II) of ionogenic group (such as anionic hydrophilic group)).
Dispersions of polyurethanes used according to the invention preferably has anionic group, preferably sulfonate radical.These anionic groups are via the amine component A2-II of reaction in step b)) it is introduced in polyurethane A) in.Polyurethane in the present invention the most additionally has the nonionic components for hydrophiling.Particularly preferred polyurethane only has sulfonate group to realize hydrophiling；These are via as component A2-II) corresponding diamidogen be introduced in polyurethane.
In order to obtain good sedimentation stability, the number average particle size of the dispersions of polyurethanes in the present invention is preferably less than 750nm, especially preferably less than 500nm, this is measured (instrument: MalvernZetasizer1000, MalverInst.Limited) by laser correlation spectrometry after diluting with deionized water.
Suitably organic multiple isocyanate is to have the aliphatic of NCO degree of functionality, aromatics or the alicyclic polyisocyanates more than or equal to 2 known to person of ordinary skill in the field.
nullThe example of this type of polyisocyanates nonrestrictive is 1，4-tetramethylene diisocyanate，1，6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI)，Isoflurane chalcone diisocyanate (IPDI)，2，2，4-and/or 2，4，4-trimethyl hexamethylene diisocyanate，Double (4，4 '-isocyanatocyclohexyl) methane isomer or the mixture of these isomers，1，4-cyclohexylene diisocyanate，4-iso-cyanatomethyl-1，8-octane diisocyanate (nonane triisocyanate)，1，4-phenylene diisocyanate，2，4-and/or 2，6-toluene di-isocyanate(TDI)，1，5-naphthalene diisocyanate，2，2 '-and/or 2，4 '-and/or 4，4 '-'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate，1，3-and/or 1，Double (the 2-isocyano acrylate-2-yl) benzene (TMXDI) of 4-，1，Double (iso-cyanatomethyl) benzene (XDI) of 3-，With there is the 2 of C1-C8-alkyl，6-bis-isocyano caproic acid Arrcostab (lysinediisocyanate).
In addition to above-mentioned polyisocyanates, it is thus also possible to use there is urea diketone, isocyanuric acid ester, urethane, allophanate, biuret, imino groupOxadiazinediones orThe modifying diisocyanates of degree of functionality >=2 of diazine triketone structure, and the mixture of these components in certain proportion.
The mixture of hexamethylene diisocyanate, isoflurane chalcone diisocyanate and aforementioned diisocyanates is particularly preferred.
Polymer polyatomic alcohol has preferred 400-8000g/mol scope, more preferably 400-6000g/mol and number-average molecular weight Mn of particularly preferred 600-3000g/mol, and preferably has 1.5-6, the OH degree of functionality of particularly preferred 1.8-3 and very particularly preferably 1.9-2.1.
Term " polymer " " the most described polyhydric alcohol of polyhydric alcohol has at least two, the repetitive connected together of more preferably at least three.
This type of polymer polyatomic alcohol is known PEPA in polyurethane coating technology, polyacrylate polyol, polyurethane polyol, polycarbonate polyol, polyether polyol, polyester polyacrylate polyhydric alcohol, polyurethane polyacrylate polyhydric alcohol, polyurethane polyureas ester polyol, polyurethane polyureas ethoxylated polyhydric alcohol, polyurethane polycarbonate polyhydric alcohol and polyester polycarbonate polyols.They can be individually or with the form of mixing for preparing in the polyurethane of the present invention.
Polymer polyatomic alcohol in the present invention is preferably polytetramethylene glycol polyethers, polycarbonate polyol and their mixture, particularly preferred polytetramethylene glycol polyethers.
The hydroxy functional compound of the molecular weight with 62-399mol/g can be the non-polymer polyhydric alcohol with at most 20 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 2,2'-ethylenedioxybis(ethanol)., 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, ammediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, cyclohexane diol, 1, 4-cyclohexanedimethanol, 1, 6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, hydroquinone dihydroxy ethyl ether, bisphenol-A (2, double (4-hydroxyphenyl) propane of 2-), hydrogenated bisphenol A (2, double (4-hydroxy-cyclohexyl) propane of 2-), trimethylolpropane, trimethylolethane, glycerol, tetramethylolmethane, any mixture with them.
Also be adapted for is the esterdiol with described molecular weight ranges, (beta-hydroxyethyl) esters as double in ε-hydroxycaproic acid Alpha-hydroxy butyl ester, γ-hydroxybutyric acid ω-Hydroxyhexyl, adipic acid (beta-hydroxyethyl) ester or p-phthalic acid.
It addition, it be also possible to use the compound containing isocyanate-reactive hydroxyl of the simple function with described molecular weight ranges.The example of this type of monofunctional compound is ethanol, n-butyl alcohol, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol list propyl ether, glycol monobutyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono butyl base ether, tripropylene glycol monobutyl base ether, 2-Ethylhexyl Alcohol, 1-capryl alcohol, DODECANOL, 1-, Cetyl OH.
Suitable non-ionic hydrophilized reagent is such as to have isocyanate-reactive groups such as hydroxyl, amino or the polyoxyalkylene ether of mercapto.Preferably there is (according to median average) 5-70, mono hydroxy functional's polyoxyalkylene polyethers alcohol of preferably 7-55 ethylene oxide unit/molecule, this polyoxyalkylene polyethers alcohol can be obtained (such as at Ullmanns in accordance with known methods by the alkoxylate of suitable starter moleculeIn dertechnischenChemie, 4thedition, Volume19, VerlagChemie, Weinheimpp.31-38).Above-mentioned non-ionic hydrophilized reagent is pure polyethylene glycol oxide ether or mixing polyoxyalkylene ether, and wherein they contain the ethylene oxide unit of at least 30mol%, preferably at least 40mol%, count based on existing whole oxyalkylene units.
Component A2) it is preferably selected from primary or secondary amine and/or diamidogen.It especially includes diamidogen.
Component A2), the amine (following component A2-I) without ionic group or ionogenic group (such as anionic hydrophilic group) can be used), and can use there is ionic group or the amine (following component A2-II) of ionogenic group (the most especially anionic hydrophilic group)).Preferred ingredient A2-I) and component A2-II) mixture react.
Such as, organic diamine or polyamines, such as 1，2-diaminoethane, 1,2-and 1,3-diaminopropanes, 1,4-diaminobutane, 1，6-diaminohexane, isophorone diamine, 2,2,4-and 2,4, the isomer mixture of 4-trimethylhexamethylenediamine, 2-methyl pentamethylene diamine, diethylenetriamines, 4,4-diamino-dicyclohexyl methane, hydrazine hydrate, and/or dimethyl-ethylenediamine can act as component A2-I).
Additionally, also there is in addition to primary amino radical secondary amino group or also there is in addition to amino (primary or secondary) compound of OH group can also act as component A2-I).Its example is primary/secondary amine, such as diethanolamine, 3-amino-1-methylamino-propane, 3-amino-1-ethylamino propane, 3-amino-1-Cyclohexylamino propane, 3-amino-1-methylamino butane, alkanolamine, such as N-amino ethyl ethanolamine, ethanolamine, 3-aminopropanol, neopentyl alcohol amine.
Additionally, the amines of the isocyanates reactivity of simple function can also act as component A2-I), such as methyl amine, ethylamine, propyl group amine, butylamine, octyl amine, lauryl amine, stearic amine, different nonyl epoxide propyl group amine, dimethyl amine, diethylamide, dipropylamine, dibutylamine, N-dimethylaminopropyl amine, diethyl (methyl) aminopropyl amine, morpholine, piperidines, suitable substitutive derivative with them, the amide-amine formed by di-primary amine and monocarboxylic acid, the single ketones imines (Monoketim) of di-primary amine, primary/tertiary amine, such as N, N-dimethylaminopropyl amine.
As component A2-I), 1，2-diaminoethane, double (4-aminocyclohexyl) methane, 1,4-Diaminobutane, isophorone diamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine and diethylenetriamines are preferably used.
Component A2) particularly preferably include at least one component A2-II).As component A2-II) suitable anion hydrophiling compound preferably comprise sulfonic acid or sulfonate groups, particularly preferred sodium group.The example of this type of anionic hydrophilic reagent is 2-(2-aminoethylamino) ethane sulfonic acid, ethylenediamine-propyl group-or-butyl-sulfonic acid, 1,2-or 1,3-propane diamine-β-ethylsulfonic acid or the salt of taurine.Additionally, the salt of the Cyclohexylamino propane sulfonic acid (CAPS) of WO-A01/88006 can act as anionic hydrophilic reagent.
Particularly preferred anionic hydrophilic reagent A 2-II) it is as ionic group with containing those of two amino containing sulfonate groups, such as 2-(2-aminoethylamino) ethylsulfonic acid and 1, the salt of 3-propane diamine-β-ethylsulfonic acid.
Dispersions of polyurethanes in the present invention particularly preferably includes at least one sulfonate groups.
Optionally, in component A2-II) in anionic group can also be carboxylate or hydroxy-acid group.
The preparation of dispersions of polyurethanes can be carried out in homogeneous in one or more stages or for multistage reaction, part is carried out in dispersion phase.In this respect, it is possible to use all method well known in the prior art, such as, prepolymer mixed method, acetone method or melt dispersion method.Preferably with acetone method.
During producing polyurethane prepolymer, isocyanate groups is usually in 1.05-3.5 scope with the amount ratio (nco index) of the material of isocyanate-reactive groups, preferably in 1.1-3.0 scope with particularly preferably in 1.1-2.5 scope.
The solids content being preferred for preparing the dispersions of polyurethanes of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is typically 10-70wt%, preferably 30-65wt%, particularly preferred 40-60wt%.Solids content determines by weighing sample is heated to constant weight at 125 DEG C.Under constant weight, calculate solids content by weighing sample again.
In cosmetic composition of the present invention, dispersions of polyurethanes A) in solid constituent or active component account for the percentage by weight of cosmetic composition gross weight and be about 0.1% to 30%, preferably from about 1-30%, most preferably about 1-20%.
It is preferably what Bayer Material Science company produced for preparing the dispersions of polyurethanes of the cosmetic composition of the present inventionC1000,C1001,C1003,C1004 andC1008。
The cosmetic composition of the present invention can advantageously comprise the thickening agent of aqueous phase, and favourable thickening agent is:
The polymer that nonionic, anion and/or amphion are relevant, such as based on Polyethylene Glycol and their derivant, or polyurethane.
Crosslinking or uncrosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homo thing or copolymer.They include methacrylic acid or acrylic acid cross-linked homopolymer, the copolymer of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid and monomer, this monomer derived is from other acrylic compounds or vinyl monomer, such as acrylic acid C10-30 Arrcostab, methacrylic acid C10-30-Arrcostab and vinyl acetate and vinyl pyrrolidone.Suitably homopolymer or copolymer should also be nonionic, anion and/or zwitterionic.
Crosslinking based on acrylamide or Methacrylamide or uncrosslinked homopolymer or copolymer, the homopolymer of such as 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, acrylamide or Methacrylamide and the copolymer of methacryl-amidoethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or acrylamide and the copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid.Suitably homopolymer or copolymer should also be nonionic, anion and/or zwitterionic.
The thickening property polymer of natural origin, such as based on cellulose, guar gum, xanthan gum, scleroglucan, gellan gum, rhamsan gum and karaya, alginate, maltodextrin, starch and its derivant, carob seed starches, hyaluronic acid, carrageenin.
Particularly advantageous thickening agent is the thickening property polymer of natural origin, the acrylic acid of crosslinking or methacrylic acid homo thing or copolymer and the cross-linked copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid.
Currently preferred thickening agent is anionic thickening polymer agent and/or Nonionic polymeric thickeners.The present invention especially preferred anionic thickening polymer agent includes ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/vinyl acetate copolymer acrylate copolymer etc..The especially preferred non-ionic polymers of the present invention includes HANSHENGJIAO, hydroxyethyl cellulose, arabic gum, hydroxymethyl cellulose, starch, polyvinyl alcohol etc..
Other particularly advantageous thickening agent includes methacrylic acid or acrylic acid cross-linked homopolymer, and it is in title940,941,980,981,ETD2001,EDT2050,2984,5984 HesAvailable commercially from Lubrizol under Ultrez10, in titleK,L andAvailable commercially from 3V under MS.
The anionic thickening polymer agent used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention neutralizes so that the pH value of mask composition falls in the scope of 5-9 sometimes for alkaline matter.Suitably alkalescence neutralization material comprises NaOH, KOH, triethanolamine, 2-amido-2 methyl isophthalic acids-propanol etc..
These thickening agents generally account for about 0.01-5 weight % of cosmetic composition gross weight, preferably 0.1-5 weight %, more preferably 0.6-5 weight %.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention the most optionally comprises nonionic surfactant, and preferred nonionic surfactant includes such as fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether, alkylolamides, amine oxide and derivant thereof, ethoxylated castor oil, cithrol, fatty acid mono glycidol etc..
The cosmetic composition of the present invention can optionally comprise emulsifying agent, and this emulsifying agent is non-ionic or anion.Particularly advantageous emulsifying agent includes such as Tween20 (INCI title PEG-14 Span60), GlucamateDOE-120 (INCI title PEG-120 methyl dioleate).
Nonionic emulsifier includes such as:
A) polyhydric alcohol and the fatty acid partial ester of ethoxylated derivative thereof and fatty acid ester
B) ethoxylized fatty alcohol and fatty acid
C) ethoxylated fatty amine, fatty acid amide, Marlamid
D) alkyl phenol polyglycol ether is (such asX)
E) ethoxylized fatty alcohol ether.
Particularly advantageous nonionic emulsifier is ethoxylized fatty alcohol or fatty acid, preferably PEG-100 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (20) ether, cetyl polyoxyethylene (20) ether, steareth (20) ether, cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (12) ether, cetyl polyoxyethylene (12) ether, stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (12) ether, single-, few-or the ester of polysaccharide and fatty acid, Isosorbide Dinitrate the most such as stearic acid Isosorbide Dinitrate is (from Uniqema's20 Hes60), sorbitan palmitate (40, Uniqema), glyceryl stearyl citrate, sucrose ester the most such as sucrose stearate, PEG-20 Glucate SS), the dicarboxylic ester (tartaric acid two nutmeg base ester) of fatty alcohol.
Favourable anion emulsifier is soaps (sodium salt of such as stearic acid or Palmic acid or triethanolamine salt), the ester of citric acid, such as stearate citric acid base ester, aliphatic alcohol sulfate, and single-, two-and trialkyl phosphates and ethyl oxide thereof.
Additionally having naturally occurring emulsifying agent, it includes Cera Flava, lanocerin, lecithin and sterin.
Based on cosmetic composition gross weight, the percentage by weight of emulsifying agent is about 0-10 weight %.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention the most optionally comprises one or more colorants, including such as titanium dioxide and silicon dioxide, iron oxide yellow, iron oxide red, iron oxide black, Pulvis Talci and Kaolin etc..
Cosmetic composition according to the present invention also can comprise one or more isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether.Particularly advantageous isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether is such as Cremophor RH40, cyclomethicone, PEG-4 bis-enanthic acid alcohol, Fancol ID, white oil, squalane, Parleam, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, coconut oil ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems and dimethicone etc..
Cosmetic composition according to the present invention can also comprise other additive that one or more are conventional in cosmetics, such as antioxidant and/or other adjuvant and additive, such as defoamer, surfactant, active component, packing agent, film former, solvent, coalescent, aromatic substance, odour absorbents, flavouring agent, gel former and/or other polymeric dispersant, filler, softening agent, dyestuff, flowable, thixotropic agent, softener, softening agent, preservative etc..The amount of various additives by the technical staff in use field known, the most about 0-25 weight %, gross weight meter based on cosmetic composition.
Cosmetic composition according to the present invention is except comprising dispersions of polyurethanes A mentioned above) and thickening agent B) in addition to, may also include the acceptable medium of cosmetics, especially include water and optional cosmetics suitable solvent.
As it has been described above, the acceptable medium of cosmetics especially includes water and optional cosmetics suitable solvent.Wherein water can be pure softening water or fossil water.Preferably solvent is the aliphatic alcohol with C2-4 carbon atom, and such as ethanol, isopropanol, polyhydric alcohol, such as propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol and polyol ethers；Nonbranched or branched hydrocarbon, such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbon, such as Pentamethylene. and hexamethylene；Mixture with them.
Particularly preferred solvent is ethanol.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention is typically prepared by following method:
To be dissolved in water and/or be scattered in the composition of water, comprise thickening agent, optional wetting agent, and/or other optional composition, such as chelating agen, preservative, solvent etc. is mixed to form water phase components；
By oil and/or be scattered in oil composition, emulsifying agent, oils and fats, preservative etc. is mixed to form oil phase component.
Water phase components and oil phase component are mixed, then by colorant and dispersions of polyurethanes A) add, mixing and stirring forms cosmetic composition.
The present invention is illustrated by following embodiment, and these embodiments should not be regarded as conditional.Unless otherwise stated, whole quantitative datas, mark and percent are based on weight or gross weight based on compositions.
Embodiment
Raw material and reagent
Preparation method of composition
Following embodiment and comparative example can be prepared by method below:
Preparation comprises the water phase components A of thickening agent, optional solvent, optional chelating agen, and water；
Prepare colorant component B；
Prepare optional emulsifying agent and component C of optional isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether；
Preparation component D；
Dispersions of polyurethanes A) it is component E；
In a reservoir component A being stirred while being heated to 80 DEG C, in another container, component C being stirred and being heated to 80 DEG C, when component A and component C are uniformly dispersed respectively, component C is added component A and is constantly stirred until homogeneous, add B component, continue to be stirred until homogeneous, and homogenizing.It is cooled to room temperature, D and component E is added and mix homogeneously, forms the cosmetic composition for experiment.
Embodiment in the present invention has a component as shown in the following chart:
The composition of table 1. embodiment of the present invention 1-4
Evaluation and test experiment 1:
The compositions of embodiment 1-4 is evaluated and tested in the following manner different thickening agent ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/vinyl acetate copolymer (AVC) content impact on the washing property of compositions:
A) washing property-isolation color make-up and the ability of skin
Those skilled in the art know, and washing property can be used as sun screen with isolation color make-up and skin effects and the parameter of makeup removing effect as the cosmetic composition of the evaluation and test present invention.
Evaluating method:
Take the compositions uniform application of the 0.02g embodiment of the present invention in the right side area of skin of dorsum of hand, stop and make it become dry in 30 minutes.Then different color make-ups are applied in the region, left and right of skin of dorsum of hand simultaneously, then stop 30 minutes and make it become dry.Finally with hot water injection, whether perusal color make-up decomposes or has obscission.
As seen from Figure 1; when ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/vinyl acetate copolymer (AVC) content is 0.6% and 5%; the compositions of embodiment of the present invention 1-4 is respectively provided with preferably washing property, shows that the compositions of embodiment of the present invention 1-4 is used as sun screen and has good isolation color make-up and the effect of skin and the effect of makeup removing.
The composition of table 2 embodiment of the present invention 5-7
The compositions of embodiment 5-7 is evaluated and tested in the following manner the different thickening agent impact on the washing property of compositions:
B) washing property-isolation color make-up and the ability of skin
Those skilled in the art know, and washing property can be used as sun screen with isolation color make-up and skin effects and the parameter of makeup removing effect as the cosmetic composition of the evaluation and test present invention.
Compositions chromascope method (Germany's portable colour difference meter of BYK to embodiment of the present invention 5-7；Model: GR6805；) evaluate and test its washing property.Method is as follows:
First in skin of dorsum of hand fixing evaluation and test region, the original L/A/B value of evaluation and test skin, the compositions taking the 0.02g present invention is applied in evaluation and test region, stops and make it become dry in 30 minutes.Then red lipstick is applied in evaluation and test region simultaneously, then stops 30 minutes and make it become dry.Finally with hot water injection, respectively at 0.5min and 1min, survey the L/A/B value of skin, L/A/B value is closer to the original color and luster of skin, illustrating to clean the cleanest, the washing property of compositions is the best, then compositions is the best with the effect of skin and makeup removing effect with isolation color make-up as sun screen.
The lipstick on table 3 hot water injection's skin L/A/B value before and after 0.5 minute
The L/A/B value before and after lipstick 1min on table 4 hot water injection's skin
Before and after Fig. 2 and Fig. 3 represents flushing 0.5min and 1min respectively, the variation tendency of the L/A/B value of the compositions of embodiment 5-7.
Result shows: after only rinsing 0.5min, finds that color make-up is easier to be rinsed, and shows to use ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/vinyl acetate copolymer (AVC) to embody advantage slightly as the compositions of thickening agent；And it is respectively adopted ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/vinyl acetate copolymer (AVC), acrylate copolymer (U21Cabomer) and hydroxyethyl cellulose (250HHR) thickener blend composition after rinsing 1min; its L/A/B value is close with skin intrinsic colour; showing that color make-up is the most all cleaned out, difference is little.Therefore, generally speaking, in cosmetic composition of the present invention, AVC is the most excellent as the performance of thickening agent.
Table 5: embodiment of the present invention 8-16 and the composition of comparative example 1
Evaluation and test experiment 2:
The compositions of embodiment 8-16 and comparative example 1 is tested and assessed in the following manner the impact on compositions washing property of the dispersions of polyurethanes of different content:
C) washing property: those skilled in the art know, washing property can be used as sun screen with isolation color make-up and skin effects and the parameter of makeup removing effect as the cosmetic composition of the evaluation and test present invention.
Evaluating method: take the compositions of the 0.02g embodiment of the present invention and comparative example compositions is applied in the right side area of skin of dorsum of hand, stop and make it become dry in 30 minutes.Then different color make-ups are applied in the region, left and right of skin of dorsum of hand simultaneously, then stop 30 minutes and make it become dry.Finally with hot water injection, whether perusal color make-up decomposes or has obscission.
In this experiment, Ref uses hot water injection's acquired results after referring to not smear any compositions and being directly coated with color make-up.
Result as illustrated in figures 4-5, when C1000 content less than 1% time, it was observed that do not decompose with color make-up after hot water injection, remain on skin, do not come off with skin, show that compositions does not has washing property, then compositions is poor with the effect of skin and makeup removing effect with isolation color make-up as sun screen.And C1000 content is the highest, then find with color make-up after hot water injection the rapidest from skin exfoliation, show that the washing property of compositions is the best, i.e. compositions is the best with the effect of skin and makeup removing effect with isolation color make-up as sun screen.
The present composition can also be used with chromascope method (Germany's portable colour difference meter of BYK；Model: GR6805；) evaluate and test the washing property of compositions.Method is as follows:
First in skin of dorsum of hand fixing evaluation and test region, the original L/A/B value of evaluation and test skin, the compositions taking the 0.02g present invention is applied in evaluation and test region, stops and make it become dry in 30 minutes.Then informer's liquid (table 8 and 9) of red lipstick (table 6 and 7) and black is applied in simultaneously evaluates and tests region, then stop 30 minutes and make it become dry.Finally with hot water injection, respectively at 0.5min and 1min, survey the L/A/B value of skin, L/A/B value is closer to the original color and luster of skin, illustrating to clean the cleanest, the washing property of compositions is the best, then compositions is the best with the effect of skin and makeup removing effect with isolation color make-up as sun screen.
Table 6: the L/A/B value before and after lipstick 0.5min on hot water injection's skin
The L/A/B value before and after lipstick 1min on table 7 hot water injection's skin
Table 8: the L/A/B value before and after eye-liner 0.5min on hot water injection's skin
Table 9: the L/A/B value before and after eye-liner 1min on hot water injection's skin
C1000 content mapped 6-9 with the L/A/B Value Data of table 6-9, result shows, in the case of rinsing 0.5min, increase along with C1000 consumption, the washing property of embodiment of the present invention compositions is become better and better, and shows that said composition is used as sun screen and becomes better and better with effect and the makeup removing effect of isolation color make-up with skin.In the case of rinsing 1min, along with the increase of C1000 consumption, the washing property of embodiment of the present invention compositions is become better and better, and shows that said composition is used as sun screen and becomes better and better with effect and the makeup removing effect of isolation color make-up with skin.When the content of C1000 is 5%, the compositions of the embodiment of the present invention can reach preferably washing property, shows that the compositions of the embodiment of the present invention has had good isolation color make-up and the effect of skin and good makeup removing effect.
D) white cotton fiber phenomenon: those skilled in the art know, white cotton fiber phenomenon can be as the parameter of consumer's evaluation and test compositions skinfeel.
Evaluating method: the compositions taking the 0.02g embodiment of the present invention and comparative example is applied in the right area of skin of dorsum of hand, wipes about 10 times with hands.See whether that white cotton fiber shape produce are raw.Then with hot water injection, whether perusal compositions decomposes or has obscission.In this experiment, Ref refers to not smear any compositions acquired results.
E) volunteer's scoring
Making 10 volunteers mark the white cotton fiber phenomenon of compositions respectively, white cotton fiber is the most, then compositions mark is the lowest, and white cotton fiber is the fewest, then compositions mark is the highest, and consumer experience is the best.
The appraisal result of Figure 10 shows, owing to C1000 self has film property, when its content is higher than 20%, compositions produces a lot of white cotton fiber on skin, and consumer experience is very poor, marks the lowest.
Evaluation and test experiment 3:
The cosmetic composition of the present invention also can strengthen the ability of color make-up and skin laminating, and it is evaluated and tested in the following manner:
The composition of table 11 embodiment of the present invention 17
| Embodiment 17 | |
| Composition | Content (%) |
| Water | To 100 |
| Dipropylene glycol | 6.00 |
| Acetic ethylenediamine disodium | 0.20 |
| AVC | 2.00 |
| Titanium dioxide (with) silicon dioxide | 1.00 |
| Iron oxide yellow | 0.05 |
| Iron oxide red | 0.02 |
| Kaolin | 0.30 |
| Microwax | 0.25 |
| Dimethicone | 5.00 |
| PEG-14 Span60 | 1.00 |
| PEG-120 methyl dioleate | 2.00 |
| Phenoxyethanol (with) Sensiva SC50 | 0.50 |
| Ethanol | 6.00 |
| Polyurethane-48 | 7.5 |
| Total amount | 100 |
F) oil-in-water foundation liquid and skin laminating ability are strengthened
Evaluating method: take the compositions of the 0.02g embodiment of the present invention 17 and foundation emulsion (Figure 11 upper left and upper right) respectively or only foundation emulsion (Figure 11 lower-left and bottom right) is applied in round central authorities, the most applied to whole Experimental Area.After 60 minutes, dab two pieces of Experimental Areas 3 times by cotton pads respectively, the residual in contrast cotton pads.
Shown in Figure 11, result shows, after employing embodiments of the invention compositions and oil-in-water foundation emulsion, in cotton pads, residue is less.Therefore, embodiments of the invention compositions can effectively help oil-in-water foundation emulsion laminating skin, shows that it has the ability strengthening oil-in-water foundation liquid with skin laminating.
G) cosmetic composition of the present invention can also be used with chromascope method (Germany's portable colour difference meter of BYK；Model: GR6805；) evaluate and test the adhesive force of compositions and skin.Method is as follows:
Before and after with the compositions wiping of the embodiment of the present invention 14, testing the original L/A/B value of skin respectively, before and after wiping, the change of L/A/B value is the least, illustrates that the adhesive force with skin is the best.
Shown in Figure 12, result shows, in the case of embodiment of the present invention compositions, the change of L/A/B value is less, shows that embodiment of the present invention compositions has the ability strengthening oil-in-water foundation liquid with skin laminating.
H) water-in-oil foundation liquid and skin laminating ability are strengthened
Evaluating method: take respectively the 0.02g embodiment of the present invention 14 compositions and foundation emulsion (Figure 13 upper left and upper right) or only foundation emulsion (Figure 13 lower-left and bottom right) be applied in round central authorities, the most applied to whole Experimental Area.After 60 minutes, dab two pieces of Experimental Areas 3 times by cotton pads respectively, the residual in contrast cotton pads.
Figure 13 result shows, in the case of embodiments of the invention 14 compositions and Water-In-Oil foundation emulsion, in cotton pads, residue is less；Show that embodiments of the invention compositions can effectively help Water-In-Oil foundation emulsion laminating skin, show that it has the ability strengthening water-in-oil foundation liquid with skin laminating.
I) cosmetic composition of the present invention can also be used with chromascope method (Germany's portable colour difference meter of BYK；Model: GR6805；) evaluate and test the adhesive force of compositions and skin.Method is as follows:
Before and after with the embodiment of the present invention 14 wiping, testing the original L/A/B value of skin respectively, before and after wiping, the change of L/A/B value is the least, illustrates that the adhesive force with skin is the best.
Figure 14 result shows, in the presence of embodiments of the invention 14 compositions, the change of L/A/B value is less, shows that embodiments of the invention compositions has the ability strengthening water-in-oil foundation liquid with skin laminating.
Those skilled in the art is apparent from, and the present invention is not limited only to aforesaid detail, and on the premise of without departing from the spirit of the present invention or key property, the present invention can be embodied as other particular forms.Therefore all should described embodiment be regarded as exemplary and nonrestrictive for any angle, thus by claims rather than preceding description points out the scope of the present invention；And the most any change, as long as in its implication belonging to claim equivalent and scope, all should regard as belonging to the present invention.
Claims (17)
1. a cosmetic composition, it comprises:
A) at least one dispersions of polyurethanes A),
B) at least one thickening agent B), and
C) the acceptable medium of cosmetics.
2. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein, dispersions of polyurethanes A) the isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymer A1 of one or more water-insolubles, nonaqueous dispersion can be passed through) with one or more amino-functional compounds A2) react and obtain.
3. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein, dispersions of polyurethanes A) solid constituent account for about 0.1-30 weight % of cosmetic composition gross weight.
4. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein, dispersions of polyurethanes A) solid constituent account for about 1.00-30 weight % of cosmetic composition gross weight.
5. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein, dispersions of polyurethanes A) solid constituent account for about 1.00-20 weight % of cosmetic composition gross weight.
6. the compositions as according to any one of claim 1-5, wherein dispersions of polyurethanes A) it is anion polyurethane.
7. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein, thickening agent B) comprise thickening agent and/or the polymer viscosifier of natural origin.
8. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 7, wherein, polymer viscosifier comprises anionic thickening polymer agent or Nonionic polymeric thickeners.
9. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 8, wherein, anionic polymer includes ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/vinyl acetate copolymer and acrylate copolymer.
10. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 8, wherein, non-ionic polymers includes HANSHENGJIAO, hydroxyethyl cellulose, arabic gum, hydroxymethyl cellulose, starch, polyvinyl alcohol.
11. cosmetic compositions as claimed in claim 7, wherein, thickening agent B) content be about 0.01-25 weight % of cosmetic composition gross weight.
12. mask compositions as claimed in claim 8, wherein, thickening agent B) content be about 0.6-5 weight % of cosmetic composition gross weight.
13. cosmetic compositions as claimed in claim 1, the most optionally comprise nonionic surfactant.
14. cosmetic compositions as claimed in claim 1, the most optionally comprise a kind of or many clock in emulsifying agent, colorant and isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether.
15. cosmetic compositions as claimed in claim 14, wherein, the content of emulsifying agent is about 0-10 weight % of cosmetic composition gross weight.
16. cosmetic compositions as according to any one of claim 1-15 are applied on skin the purposes being used as sun screen to isolate color make-up.
17. cosmetic compositions as according to any one of claim 1-15 are applied on skin be used as the purposes of makeup removing.
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| CN112641647A (en) * | 2019-10-10 | 2021-04-13 | 上海泽霈化妆品科技有限公司 | Invisible skin care film |
| CN112641672A (en) * | 2019-10-10 | 2021-04-13 | 上海泽霈化妆品科技有限公司 | Water-based lasting lip gloss |
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