CN105380828A - Cosmetic composition having magic sensory zone, screening method and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition having magic sensory zone, screening method and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having a magic sensory zone, a mat zone, and a glossy zone, and a screening method and preparation method thereof. By the screening method of the cosmetic composition, prescription characteristics of a predicted feeling of use may be checked in advance, and a distinctive feeling of use and makeup effects may be predicted in each of set sections, and smooth, glossy cosmetic characteristics may be provided in the prescription of a section having a specific coefficient of kinetic friction. The screening method may be used to prepare a ternary system of a water-in-oil type cosmetic composition consisting of pigment, oil phase, and water phase.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to and there is mysterious sensory region, matt district, the cosmetic composition in gloss district and screening technique thereof and preparation method.
Background technology
The cosmetic composition of making up roughly divides into end cosmetics and heavy make-up cosmetics; cosmetics of the above-mentioned end plays and covers the shortcoming of skin and concavo-convex; and protect the function of skin; above-mentioned heavy make-up is used for cosmetic seems beautiful in giving color to lip, eyes, eyebrow, fingernail etc.; wherein, end cosmetics divides into the two-component system such as three-component system, powder dispersion type, oil dispersion type of water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water type emulsion etc. in dosage form.Especially, as water-in-oil type, oil-in-water type, the dosage form be made up of the three-component system of powder stock, oil phase and aqueous phase because controlling its use sense its variable and factor various, thus the current research to it is few.
The multiple measurable factors such as the form of the use sense in product and the coefficient of kinetic friction, viscosity, thixotropy, surface tension and particle are relevant, wherein, can exemplify the coefficient of kinetic friction as factor slickness and spreadability being produced to maximum impact.The coefficient of kinetic friction is the value of frictional force divided by normal pressure, and its value is less, and spreadability is better.
But, not to the research that the dependency relation between above-mentioned factor and prescription is confirmed, learn that prescription construction materials group and above-mentioned factor have dependency relation by aesthetic or experiment experience, but still hash-value is predicted use sense to its dependency relation analysis and the experimental result thing of prescription is carried out to the screening technique of prognostic experiment.Therefore, in order to confirm use sense, can only confirm that use sense is to set prescription direction in the mode of carrying out one by one successively testing.
Especially, in the prescription of three-component system dosage form, because its variable is various, thus be difficult to utilize experience to predict use sense, cause in the failure obtaining can only experiencing in required use sense experimentally.
Summary of the invention
In order to overcome the shortcoming of prior art, the correlation coefficient between construction materials group is confirmed in the prescription of the present invention's cosmetics compositions at the bottom of as the water-in-oil type of three-component system, and confirm that its prescription feature and use sense have dependency relation, thus before substance experiment, predict its use sense can set the basic framework of prescription, wherein, use sense region in specific prescription characteristic sum specific coefficient of kinetic friction region is set to be set as feature of the present invention.
Therefore, the problem to be solved in the present invention is, provides cosmetic composition, and above-mentioned cosmetic composition utilizes oil and the component ratio of colorant and the dependency relation of the coefficient of kinetic friction to have required use sense.
Further, the problem again that the present invention will solve is, provides the method for screening cosmetic composition, and the method for above-mentioned screening cosmetic composition utilizes oil and the component ratio of colorant and the dependency relation of the coefficient of kinetic friction to have required use sense.
Further, another problem that the present invention will solve is, provides cosmetic composition, and above-mentioned cosmetic composition utilizes said method to screen.
Further, the also problem that the present invention will solve is, provides the method preparing above-mentioned cosmetic composition.
The present invention is directed to cosmetics compositions at the bottom of the water-in-oil type as three-component system, confirm the dependency relation between the construction materials group in its prescription, and confirm that secondary dependency relation between itself and the coefficient of kinetic friction is to confirm the use sense feature between each different interval, thus be provided in the screening technique can seeking convenience in product development, and provide there is the specific use sense in each interval and the composition and method of making the same of cosmetic feature.
Below, the present invention will be described in more detail.
In a specific example of the present invention, the invention provides cosmetic composition, the feature of above-mentioned cosmetic composition is, the coefficient of kinetic friction is 0.06 ~ 0.11, and the ratio (POratio) of the oil determined by following mathematical formulae 1 and colorant is 0.49 ~ 0.94.
Mathematical formulae 1
In a concrete example more of the present invention, the invention provides cosmetic composition, the feature of above-mentioned cosmetic composition is, the coefficient of kinetic friction is greater than 0.11, and the ratio (POratio) of the oil determined by mathematical formulae 1 and colorant is greater than 0.94.
In another concrete example of the present invention, the invention provides cosmetic composition, the feature of above-mentioned cosmetic composition is, the coefficient of kinetic friction is less than 0.06, and the ratio (POratio) of the oil determined by mathematical formulae 1 and colorant is less than 0.49.
Above-mentioned nonvolatile oil is not limited thereto, but comprises and be selected from by diphenylmethyl silicon alkoxyl phenyl trimethicone (diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone), butanediol two is sad/dicaprate (butyleneglycoldicaprylate/dicaprate), isononyl isononanoate (isononylisononanoate), two isooctadecanol malates (diisostearylmalate), Silicone DC 556 (phenyltrimethicone), Parleam (hydrogenatedpolyisobutene), Bai Manghua seed oil (meadowfoamseedoil), macadimia nut oil (macadamianutoil), Jojoba oil (jojobaoil), isotriacontane (squalane), polyisobutylene (polyisobutene), ethylhexyl palmitate (ethylhexylpalmitate), dimethyl siloxane (dimethicone, more than 20cs), polyglycereol-2 three isostearate (polyglyceryl-2triisostearate), C12-15 alcohol benzoate (C12-15alkylbenzoate), caprylic/capric triglyceride (caprylic/caprictriglyceride), dimerized linoleic acid diisopropyl ester (diisopropyldimerdilinoleate), Sensiva SC50 cetylate (ethylhexylglycerylpalmitate), more than one in the group that IPIS (isopropylisostearate) and spermol ethylhexoate (cetylethylhexanoate) form.
Above-mentioned ethereal oil is not limited thereto, but comprise and be selected from by cyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane), cyclohexasiloxane (cyclohexasiloxane), dimethyl siloxane (dimethicone, 0.65 ~ 6CS), methyl trimethoxy radical siloxane (methyltrimethicone), sad methylsiloxane (caprylicmethicone), Fancol ID (isododecane), 2-Methylpentadecane (isohexadecane), C6-8 isoparaffin (C6-8isoparaffin), C8-9 isoparaffin (C8-9isoparaffin), more than one in the group that C9-10 isoparaffin (C9-10isoparaffin) and C10-11 isoparaffin (C10-11isoparaffin) form.
Above-mentioned colorant is not limited thereto, but comprise and be selected from by titanium dioxide (Titaniumdioxide), zinc oxide (Zincoxide), iron oxides (Ironoxides), Talcum (talc), sericite (sericite), Muscovitum (mica), synthetic mica (syntheticfluorphlogopite), methyl methacrylate cross linked polymer (methylmethacrylatecrosspolymer), urethane esters powder (polyurethane-44 (polyurethane-44) or polyurethane-45 (polyurethane-45)), polymethyl methacrylate (polymethylmethacrylate), polymethylsilsesquioxane (polymethylsilsesquioxane), silicon dioxide (silica), the powder of nylon (nylon) powder etc. and these powder are carried out surface modification pigment composition group in more than one.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention dosage form can turn to BB frost, sunscreen cream, primer, sun screen, vanishing cream, concealer etc., but is not limited thereto.
In a specific example of the present invention, the invention provides the screening technique of cosmetic composition, the screening technique of above-mentioned cosmetic composition comprises: step (a), and mixing comprises multiple subject composition of oil and colorant; Step (b), measures the coefficient of kinetic friction of above-mentioned multiple subject composition respectively; And step (c), utilizing i) coefficient of kinetic friction and ii) dependency relation of ratio (POratio) of oil and colorant screens the cosmetic composition with required use sense.
Wherein, above-mentioned use sense is not limited thereto, and above-mentioned use sense can be smooth feeling, slippery feeling or white texture or dullish.
Above-mentioned steps (c) can be selected from a step in following steps, concrete steps are as follows: step I), screening the coefficient of kinetic friction be 0.06 ~ 0.11 and the ratio (POratio) of the oil of mathematical formulae 1 and colorant be 0.49 ~ 0.94 the cosmetic composition with white texture; Step I i), the screening coefficient of kinetic friction is greater than 0.11 and the ratio (POratio) of the oil of mathematical formulae 1 and the colorant lacklustre cosmetic composition that is greater than 0.94; And step I ii), the screening coefficient of kinetic friction is less than 0.06 and the ratio (POratio) of the oil of mathematical formulae 1 and the colorant smooth and smooth cosmetic composition that is less than 0.49.
Further, the invention provides and carry out by the screening technique of above-mentioned cosmetic composition the cosmetic composition that screens.
In a specific example of the present invention, the invention provides and prepare the method that the coefficient of kinetic friction is the cosmetic composition of 0.06 ~ 0.11, the method for above-mentioned cosmetic composition comprises with the step of the weight ratio of 1.0:0 ~ 3.9:0.5 ~ 2.7 mixing nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant.Wherein, the oil determined by mathematical formulae 1 of above-mentioned cosmetic composition and the ratio (POratio) of colorant can be 0.49 ~ 0.94.
In a concrete example more of the present invention, the invention provides the method prepared the coefficient of kinetic friction and be greater than the cosmetic composition of 0.11, the method for above-mentioned cosmetic composition comprises with the step of the weight ratio of 0 ~ 1.0:2.7 ~ 20.0:2.7 ~ 18.0 mixing nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant.Wherein, the oil determined by mathematical formulae 1 of above-mentioned cosmetic composition and the ratio (POratio) of colorant can be greater than 0.94.
In another concrete example of the present invention, the invention provides the method prepared the coefficient of kinetic friction and be less than the cosmetic composition of 0.06, the method for above-mentioned cosmetic composition comprises with the step of the weight ratio of 1.0:0 ~ 5.7:0.3 ~ 2.0 mixing nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant.Wherein, the oil determined by mathematical formulae 1 of above-mentioned cosmetic composition and the ratio (POratio) of colorant can be less than 0.49.
Below, term used in the present invention is determined.
" coefficient of kinetic friction (μ) ", for kinetic force of friction (f) is divided by the value of the normal pressure (N) of object, can be calculated by following mathematical formulae 2.
Mathematical formulae 2
μ＝f/N
(μ: coefficient of friction, f: frictional force, N: load pressure)
The coefficient of kinetic friction is less, and spreadability, slickness are better.
" gold ratio is interval " is using between the given zone of outstanding for the white texture usability prescription aspect as feature.In the present invention, the ratio (POratio) as oil and colorant is 0.49 ~ 0.94 interval.
" mysterious sensory region (MagicSensoryZone) " for not feeling colorant texture in prescription and giving unlike powder and the smooth white texture of usability, and gives the interval of the outstanding dressing effect of glossiness.In the present invention, oil and the ratio (POratio) of colorant be 0.49 ~ 0.94 interval and the coefficient of kinetic friction be confirm the outstanding and dressing effect of white texture in 0.06 ~ 0.11 interval remarkably, thus to be called " mysterious sensory region (MagicSensoryZone) ".
" matt district " is for having the region of following feature: when the colorant texture feeling in prescription works as coating, feel unlike powder, the performance of cosmetic also provides lacklustre cosmetic film.In the present invention, oil and the ratio (POratio) of colorant be greater than 0.94 interval and the coefficient of kinetic friction be greater than in the interval of 0.114 and confirm use sense tarnish, thus to be called in " matt district ".
" gloss district " is for having the region of following feature: almost not feeling the texture of the colorant in prescription, mainly feels the slickness of oil, and the reflecting feel of the cosmetic film provided is also high.In the present invention, oil and the ratio (POratio) of colorant be less than 0.49 interval and the coefficient of kinetic friction be less than in the interval of 0.06, confirm because reflecting feel is high and smooth and use sense is smooth, thus be called in " gloss district ".
By the screening technique of cosmetic composition of the present invention, the prescription feature of predicted use sense can be confirmed in advance, by set each different interval measurable characteristic use sense and dressing effect, wherein, in the prescription in interval with the specific coefficient of kinetic friction, there is the effect providing smooth and glossiness cosmetic characteristics.Screening technique of the present invention can be used for the water-in-oil type cosmetic compositions preparing the three-component system be made up of colorant, oil phase and aqueous phase.
Accompanying drawing explanation
It is that benchmark carries out the result of dependency relation analysis by scatterplot matrices that Fig. 1 (a) and Fig. 1 (b) represents with preparation example 1, the volatility line of oils of preparation example 2 (22), non-volatile line of oils and the content of colorant group and the measured value of the coefficient of kinetic friction totally.
Fig. 2 represents as the oil of dependency relation between the colorant group of preparation example 1, preparation example 2 (22) and line of oils and the simple linear regression result between the ratio (POratio) of colorant and the coefficient of kinetic friction totally.
Fig. 3 (a), Fig. 3 (b), Fig. 3 (c), Fig. 3 (d) and Fig. 3 (e) are the photo representing reflecting feel evaluation result.
Fig. 3 (a) represents the J of preparation example 2.
Fig. 3 (b) represents the D of preparation example 1.
Fig. 3 (c) represents the Q of preparation example 2.
Fig. 3 (d) represents the F of preparation example 1.
Fig. 3 (e) represents the V of preparation example 2.
Fig. 4 (a), Fig. 4 (b), Fig. 4 (c), Fig. 4 (d) and Fig. 4 (e) represent the photo not being infected with evaluation result.
Fig. 4 (a) represents the J of preparation example 2.
Fig. 4 (b) represents the D of preparation example 1.
Fig. 4 (c) represents the Q of preparation example 2.
Fig. 4 (d) represents the F of preparation example 1.
The V of Fig. 4 (e) preparation example 2.
Detailed description of the invention
The screening technique of the use sense that the water-in-oil type cosmetic compositions that the invention provides three-component system is correlated with, line of oils in setting prescription, namely, volatility line of oils and the dependency relation between non-volatile line of oils and pulverous colorant group, and the secondary dependency relation between above-mentioned dependency relation and the coefficient of kinetic friction that can show slickness and white texture is analyzed, thus provide its screening technique.Further, preparation method and the compositions thereof of the cosmetic composition being equivalent to specified specific region are provided by its screening technique.The feature passing through the compositions prepared by provided preparation method is, is equivalent to specific region scope to give specific use sense and cosmetic characteristics.
Below, according to preparation example and embodiment, the present invention is described in detail.Following preparation example and embodiment are used for specifically describing the present invention, and the present invention is not limited thereto.
As for providing the screening technique of use sense of the present invention first to analyze the feature in prescription.
The cosmetic composition that the water-in-oil type of three-component system is made up is made up of pulverous colorant, oil phase and aqueous phase.Above-mentioned oil phase divides into ethereal oil and nonvolatile oil.
In the colorant group of characters powder, comprise by more than one in the powder such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides, Talcum, sericite, Muscovitum, synthetic mica, methyl methacrylate cross linked polymer, urethane esters powder (polyurethane-44 or polyurethane-45), polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, silicon dioxide, nylon powder or the group that forms the pigment that above-mentioned powder carries out surface modification.
Ethereal oil has cetyl polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-10/1 dimethyl siloxane (cetylPEG/PPG-10/1dimethicone), Polyethylene Glycol-10 dimethyl siloxane (PEG-10dimethicone), the surfactant of lauryl Polyethylene Glycol-9 polydimethylsiloxanes ethyl dimethyl siloxane (laurylPEG-9polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone) etc., ceresine (ozokerite), ceresin (ceresine), Cera Flava (beeswax), the viscosity forming agent of distearyl dimethylammonium Strese Hofmann's hectorite. (disteadimoniumhectorite) and bentonite (bentonite) etc., cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethyl siloxane (0.65 ~ 6CS), methyl trimethoxy radical siloxane, sad methylsiloxane (caprylicmethicone), Fancol ID, 2-Methylpentadecane, C6-8 isoparaffin, C8-9 isoparaffin, C9-10 isoparaffin and C10-11 isoparaffin etc.
Nonvolatile oil has diphenylmethyl silicon alkoxyl phenyl trimethicone, butanediol two is sad/dicaprate, isononyl isononanoate, two isooctadecanol malates, Silicone DC 556, Parleam, Bai Manghua seed oil, macadimia nut oil, Jojoba oil, isotriacontane, polyisobutylene, ethylhexyl palmitate, dimethyl siloxane (more than 20cs), polyglycereol-2 three isostearate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimerized linoleic acid diisopropyl ester, Sensiva SC50 cetylate, IPIS and spermol ethylhexoate etc.
Aqueous phase comprises the solvent of purified water, ethanol (ethanol) etc., butanediol (butyleneglycol), the wetting agent of dipropylene glycol (dipropyleneglycol) and glycerol (glycerin) etc. and emulsion stabilizer, antistaling agent etc. in addition.
Derive screening technique of the present invention to utilize one-tenth representative in above-mentioned raw materials to assign to, following concrete formation preparation example 1 and preparation example 2 are analyzed, and determine usability evaluation and the coefficient of kinetic friction.
preparation example 1: the composition ratio of cosmetic composition
Table 1
Unit: g percentage by weight
preparation example 2: the composition ratio of cosmetic composition
Table 2
Unit: g percentage by weight
Table 3
The composition of non-volatile line of oils
| Material name | Content |
| Butanediol two is sad/dicaprate | 12.50 |
| Isononyl isononanoate | 12.50 |
| Two isooctadecanol malates | 12.50 |
| Silicone DC 556 | 12.50 |
| Parleam | 12.50 |
| Bai Manghua seed oil | 12.50 |
| Ethylhexyl palmitate | 12.50 |
| Dimethyl siloxane (100cs) | 12.50 |
| Add up to | 100.00 |
Unit: g percentage by weight
Table 4
The composition of volatility line of oils
| Material name | Content |
| Sad methylsiloxane | 25.00 |
| Dimethyl siloxane (6cs) | 25.00 |
| Cyclopentasiloxane | 25.00 |
| Cyclohexasiloxane | 25.00 |
| Add up to | 100.00 |
Unit: g percentage by weight
Table 5
The composition of colorant group
| Material name | Content |
| Methyl methacrylate cross linked polymer | 3.00 |
| Titanium dioxide (scribbling methylsiloxane) | 83.00 |
| Red iron oxide (scribbling methylsiloxane) | 3.00 |
| Yellow iron oxide (scribbling methylsiloxane) | 8.20 |
| Black iron oxide (scribbling methylsiloxane) | 2.80 |
| Add up to | 100.00 |
Unit: g percentage by weight
Wherein, the factor of texture unlike powder and astringent can exemplify pulverous colorant to make use sense feel.As the astringent usability of colorant can be made to offset as the composition of smooth texture is for oily, as mentioned above, the kind of oil divides into ethereal oil and nonvolatile oil, has thus carried out labelling by the total amount of each group.
embodiment 1: the dependency relation analysis of oil-colorant-coefficient of kinetic friction
The present embodiment is for the oil of preparation example 1 and preparation example 2, that is, the content of non-volatile line of oils, volatility line of oils and colorant group, with the measured value of the coefficient of kinetic friction of each example for benchmark analyzes dependency relation.
The coefficient of kinetic friction utilizes frictionmeter (FrictionTestMachineTO-100-IC, Testone company) to measure.For sample to be determined, that is, the preparation example 1 of 0.16g and preparation example 2 be coated in the circle that the diameter of artificial skin is 30mm with uniform thickness.The end of sensor is attached with soft silicone rubber, thus measures coefficient of friction in the mode of carrying out balanced sequence by the power of regulation.Coefficient of friction can be calculated by following formula.The sensitivity of analyzer is 0.005N.
μ＝f/N
(μ: coefficient of friction, f: frictional force, N: load pressure)
As shown in Fig. 1 (a) and Fig. 1 (b), according to the data results of scatterplot matrices, confirm the dependency relation (p < 0.05) between volatility line of oils-non-volatile line of oils, non-volatile line of oils-colorant group, colorant group-coefficient of kinetic friction and non-volatile line of oils-coefficient of kinetic friction with significance.
The scatterplot matrices of Fig. 1 (a) be with matrix notation variable between the chart of scatterplot for can find out at a glance.Wherein, scatterplot refers to confirm that the relation between Two Variables will represent that the point of Two Variables value is shown in chart.
In Fig. 1 (b), the statistical analysis of the linear intensity between Pearson's correlation coefficient refers to variable.
That is, if x and y is close to straight line, then close to 1 or-1, if close to non-linear, then there is the value close to 0.Further, if correlation coefficient value is greater than 0, then there is positive correlation, if be less than 0, then there is negative correlativing relation.Dependency relation formula is as follows.
Mathematical formulae 3
In above-mentioned mathematical formulae, S
xyrefer to the degree that x and y together changes,
refer to the degree that x and y changes respectively.
embodiment 2: the usability contribution degree of non-volatile line of oils and volatility line of oils is evaluated and new
the ratio (POratio) of variable oil and colorant is derived
The impact that the line of oils evaluating two kinds based on the dependency relation be confirmed in embodiment 1 as follows produces the slickness of the representative character as white texture and residual, derives the new coefficient reflecting the astringent texture offsetting colorant afterwards according to its contribution degree.
The usability evaluation of non-volatile line of oils and volatility line of oils in 2-1. line of oils
The oil of each is applied in the back of the hand in the mode launched is divided into benchmark to evaluate slickness (spreadability) and residual sense with 10.
To the metewand of slickness
1 point: do not sprawl and be clamminess very much
2 points: do not sprawl and be clamminess
3 points: faintly sprawl but be clamminess
4 points: to sprawl but thickness sense is heavy and to be micro-ly clamminess
5 points: sprawl and be not clamminess and there is thickness sense
6 points: sprawl and have thickness sense and there is friction sense
7 points: slightly friction sense and slightly smooth
8 points: slightly friction sense and smooth
9 points: do not rub sense and smooth
10 points: do not feel that friction is felt and unusual light
To the metewand of residual sense
1 point: be not absorbed in skin completely and remain with thick film sense
2 points: be not absorbed in skin completely and remain with middle film sense
3 points: be not absorbed in skin completely and remain with thin film sense
4 points: remain with middle film sense, but faintly absorbed after the elapsed time
5 points: remain with thin film sense, but faintly absorbed after the elapsed time
6 points: remain with thin film sense, but absorbed after the elapsed time
7 points: absorbed and volatilize, but smooth
8 points: absorbed and volatilize, but slightly slippery feeling
9 points: absorbed and to volatilize and more matt
10 points: noresidue sense is also absorbed or pallidly volatilized
Table 6
The usability evaluation of non-volatile line of oils
| Material name | Slickness | Residual sense |
| Butanediol two is sad/dicaprate | 8.00 | 9.00 |
| Isononyl isononanoate | 8.00 | 8.50 |
| Two isooctadecanol malates | 5.00 | 10.00 |
| Silicone DC 556 | 8.00 | 9.00 |
| Parleam | 9.00 | 9.00 |
| Bai Manghua seed oil | 7.00 | 9.00 |
| Ethylhexyl palmitate | 9.00 | 9.00 |
| Dimethyl siloxane (100cs) | 10.00 | 8.50 |
Evaluate meansigma methods: 8.50
Table 7
The usability evaluation of volatility line of oils
| Material name | Slickness | Residual sense |
| Sad methylsiloxane | 8.50 | 6.00 |
| Dimethyl siloxane (6cs) | 6.00 | 3.00 |
| Cyclopentasiloxane | 6.00 | 2.50 |
| Cyclohexasiloxane | 6.00 | 2.50 |
Evaluate meansigma methods: 5.06
Determine as follows from above-mentioned usability evaluation result: ethereal oil (evaluating meansigma methods=5.06), than nonvolatile oil (evaluating meansigma methods=8.50), contributes the usability of 60% (slickness (spreadability), residual sense).
The ratio (POratio) of 2-2. new variables oil and colorant is derived
Consider that the above-mentioned contribution degree of reflection makes the power of influence of the line of oils of the astringent counteracting of colorant to derive new variables, and its ratio is called the ratio (POratio) of oil and colorant.
embodiment 3: oil and the ratio (POratio) of colorant and the dependency relation of the coefficient of kinetic friction
analyze
Simple linear regression is carried out to as the oil of above-mentioned new variables and the dependency relation between the ratio (POratio) of colorant and the coefficient of kinetic friction, finally confirm the linear relationship of the ratio (POratio) with the coefficient of kinetic friction=0.03996+0.05916 × oil and colorant, and obtain the chart as Fig. 2.
Simple linear regression carries out modeling by suitable function to the relation between independent variable and dependent variable to make analysis and prediction become simple statistical analysis technique.
embodiment 4: the use sense evaluation in the difference interval of the ratio (POratio) of oil and colorant
Be expressed as follows result in table 8: in fig. 2, in order to evaluate the difference interval use sense as the oil of new variables and the ratio (POratio) of colorant, for benchmark carries out sequence to preparation example 1, preparation example 2,10 points of evaluations are carried out to slickness (spreadability), reflecting feel, the project be not infected with the ratio (POratio) of oil and colorant.
To the metewand of slickness
1 point: do not sprawl and be clamminess very much
2 points: do not sprawl and be clamminess
3 points: faintly sprawl but be clamminess
4 points: to sprawl but thickness sense is heavy and be slightly clamminess
5 points: sprawl and be not clamminess and there is thickness sense
6 points: sprawl and have thickness sense and there is friction sense
7 points: slightly friction sense and slightly smooth
8 points: slightly friction sense and smooth
9 points: do not rub sense and smooth
10 points: do not feel that friction is felt and unusual light
To the metewand of reflecting feel
1 point: once smearing lackluster sense and there is thickness sense
2 points: only present initial stage reflecting feel, and carry out smearing and become matt
3 points: dullish before cosmetic film is fixed and become matt
4 points: after cosmetic film is fixed, reflecting feel dies down
5 points: after glossy sense but cosmetic film are fixed, reflecting feel dies down very much
6 points: after the outstanding but cosmetic film of reflecting feel is fixed, reflecting feel dies down
7 points: the outstanding but cosmetic film of reflecting feel dies down after being fixed gradually
8 points: glossy sense after cosmetic film is fixed
9 points: after cosmetic film is fixed, reflecting feel is outstanding
10 points: after cosmetic film is fixed, reflecting feel is very outstanding
To the metewand be not infected with
1 point: be infected with very many and cosmetic film loses very many
2 points: be infected with many and cosmetic film loses very many
3 points: to be infected with and cosmetic film loses very many
4 points: be infected with and lose cosmetic film
5 points: be infected with and faintly lose cosmetic film
6 points: be slightly infected with and comparatively maintain cosmetic film
7 points: be slightly infected with but maintain cosmetic film
8 points: be infected with unintelligiblely but be not easy to be infected with
9 points: be not almost infected with
10 points: be infected with not at all
Table 8
The oil of preparation example 1, preparation example 2 benchmark use sense different from the ratio (POratio) of colorant is evaluated
Comprehensive evaluation result carried out to use sense as follows: the ratio (POratio) of oil and colorant to be the preparation example D ~ oil of 0.498 and the ratio (POratio) of colorant be 0.933 preparation example F between the evaluation of use sense compared with result in addition, present very outstanding result (total score more than 24 points).
Carry out evaluating as follows to reflecting feel: take mutually commensurability preparation example to after being coated on artificial skin, drying makes cosmetic film be fixed for 5 minutes at ambient temperature, and evaluating reflecting feel, Fig. 3 (a) ~ Fig. 3 (e) is respectively to the photo that the reflecting feel of preparation example J, preparation example D, preparation example A, preparation example F and preparation example V is evaluated.As shown in the photo, the preparation example J (Fig. 3 (a)) that the ratio (POratio) of oil and colorant is minimum illustrates in lusterless mode matt, and the cosmetic film unlike powder is shown, the reflecting feel that the preparation example V (Fig. 3 (e)) that ratio (POratio) that is oily and colorant is the highest illustrates is fitst water.When oil and the ratio (POratio) of colorant to be the preparation example D ~ oil of 0.498 and the ratio (POratio) of colorant be 0.933 preparation example F between preparation example D, preparation example A and preparation example F, confirm more less than preparation example V reflecting feel, but show the cosmetic film of outstanding reflecting feel.
And, carry out evaluating as follows to the property be not infected with: take mutually commensurability preparation example to after being coated on artificial skin, drying makes cosmetic film be fixed for 5 minutes at ambient temperature, utilizes towel to confirm the amount be infected with identical power pressing cosmetic film afterwards, and evaluates.Fig. 4 (a) ~ Fig. 4 (e) is respectively to the photo that the property be not infected with of preparation example J, preparation example D, preparation example A, preparation example F and preparation example V is evaluated.Confirming preparation example J (Fig. 4 (a)) is infected with very many, but when preparation example V (Fig. 4 (e)), is not almost infected with.When oil and the ratio (POratio) of colorant to be the preparation example D ~ oil of 0.498 and the ratio (POratio) of colorant be 0.933 preparation example F between preparation example D, preparation example A and preparation example F, have difference to a certain degree, but it is more outstanding to be evaluated as persistence as the level be faintly infected with.
Therefore, confirmation is as follows: the interval that ratio (POratio) that is oily and colorant is 0.498 ~ 0.933 is in the slickness of the representative attribute as white texture, as classic attribute shown in the reflecting feel showing attribute and the evaluation of not being infected with of making up.
Above-mentioned interval can be illustrated as the outstanding and interval that dressing effect is outstanding of white texture in adornment product at the bottom of the water-in-oil type of three-component system, this interval be appointed as " gold ratio interval " in the ratio (POratio) of oil and colorant.
As mentioned above, in fig. 2, there is the linear relationship of the ratio (POratio) of the coefficient of kinetic friction=0.03996+0.05916 × oil and colorant, the reliable interval to 95% of predictive value can be obtained.Therefore, to the oil of the lower limit in gold ratio interval and the oil of the reliable lower limit ~ upper limit of the coefficient of kinetic friction of ratio (POratio) (0.498) of colorant and the reliable upper limit of the coefficient of kinetic friction of ratio (POratio) (0.933) of colorant, that is, 0.063 ~ 0.104 is that the predictable coefficient of kinetic friction is interval in gold ratio interval.That is, when having the product of the coefficient of kinetic friction in above-mentioned interval, measurable is adornment product at the bottom of the outstanding water-in-oil type of white texture.
Above-mentioned mathematical formulae and the gold ratio interval set utilize the dependency relation of statistics to nonvolatile oil/ethereal oil/between colorant and the coefficient of kinetic friction to carry out modeling, and very useful in the prediction of prescription or the prediction of use sense.
Based on above-mentioned analysis result, in the present invention, by oil and the ratio (POratio) of colorant be 0.49 ~ 0.94 interval and the coefficient of kinetic friction be 0.06 ~ 0.11 interval be called that white texture is outstanding and " mysterious sensory region " that dressing effect is very outstanding.Further, the interval and the coefficient of kinetic friction interval that is greater than 0.114 that oil and the ratio (POratio) of colorant are greater than 0.94 be called use sense lacklustre " matt district ", ratio (POratio) that is oily and colorant is less than the interval that the interval of 0.49 and the coefficient of kinetic friction be less than 0.06 is called " gloss district " that use sense is smooth.
In order to be equivalent to the cosmetic composition in mysterious sensory region, matt district and gloss district from the preparation of the composition ratio of table 1 and table 2, calculate the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant composition.
When the coefficient of kinetic friction is the cosmetic composition of mysterious sensory region of 0.06 ~ 0.11, can prepare with the mixing of the weight ratio of 1.0:0 ~ 3.9:0.5 ~ 2.7 nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant.
When the coefficient of kinetic friction is greater than the cosmetic composition in matt district of 0.11, can prepare with the mixing of the weight ratio of 0 ~ 1.0:2.7 ~ 20.0:2.7 ~ 18.0 nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant.
When the coefficient of kinetic friction is less than the cosmetic composition in gloss district of 0.06, can prepare with the mixing of the weight ratio of 1.0:0 ~ 5.7:0.3 ~ 2.0 nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant.
Claims (14)
1. a cosmetic composition, is characterized in that, the coefficient of kinetic friction is 0.06 ~ 0.11, and the oil determined by following formula and the ratio of colorant are 0.49 ~ 0.94,
2. a cosmetic composition, is characterized in that, the coefficient of kinetic friction is greater than 0.11, and the oil determined by following formula and the ratio of colorant are greater than 0.94,
3. a cosmetic composition, is characterized in that, the coefficient of kinetic friction is less than 0.06, and the oil determined by following formula and the ratio of colorant are less than 0.49,
4. cosmetic composition according to any one of claim 1 to 3, it is characterized in that, above-mentioned nonvolatile oil is for being selected from by diphenylmethyl silicon alkoxyl phenyl trimethicone, butanediol two is sad/dicaprate, isononyl isononanoate, two isooctadecanol malates, Silicone DC 556, Parleam, Bai Manghua seed oil, macadimia nut oil, Jojoba oil, isotriacontane, polyisobutylene, ethylhexyl palmitate, the dimethyl siloxane of more than 20cs, polyglycereol-2 three isostearate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimerized linoleic acid diisopropyl ester, Sensiva SC50 cetylate, IPIS and spermol ethylhexoate composition group in more than one.
5. cosmetic composition according to any one of claim 1 to 3, it is characterized in that, ethereal oil be selected from the group that is made up of the dimethyl siloxane of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, 0.65 ~ 6CS, methyl trimethoxy radical siloxane, sad methylsiloxane, Fancol ID, 2-Methylpentadecane, C6-8 isoparaffin, C8-9 isoparaffin, C9-10 isoparaffin and C10-11 isoparaffin more than one.
6. cosmetic composition according to any one of claim 1 to 3, it is characterized in that, colorant is be selected from by more than one in titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides, Talcum, sericite, Muscovitum, synthetic mica, methyl methacrylate cross linked polymer, urethane esters powder as polyurethane-44 or polyurethane-45, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, silicon dioxide, nylon powder and the group that forms the pigment that these powder carry out surface modification.
7. a screening technique for cosmetic composition, is characterized in that, comprising:
Step (a), mixing comprises multiple subject composition of oil and colorant;
Step (b), measures the coefficient of kinetic friction of above-mentioned multiple subject composition respectively; And
Step (c), utilizes i) coefficient of kinetic friction and ii) dependency relation of ratio of oil and colorant screens the cosmetic composition with required use sense.
8. the screening technique of cosmetic composition according to claim 7, is characterized in that, the ratio of above-mentioned oil and colorant is determined by following formula,
9. the screening technique of cosmetic composition according to claim 8, is characterized in that, step (c) is selected from a step in following steps, and concrete steps are as follows:
Step I), screening the coefficient of kinetic friction be 0.06 ~ 0.11 and the ratio of the oil of above-mentioned formula and colorant be 0.49 ~ 0.94 the cosmetic composition with white texture;
Step I i), the screening coefficient of kinetic friction is greater than 0.11 and the oil of above-mentioned formula and the ratio of the colorant lacklustre cosmetic composition that is greater than 0.94; And
Step I ii), the screening coefficient of kinetic friction is less than 0.06 and the oil of above-mentioned formula and the ratio of the colorant smooth and smooth cosmetic composition that is less than 0.49.
10. a cosmetic composition, is characterized in that, is screened by the screening technique of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claim 7 to 9.
11. 1 kinds of methods preparing cosmetic composition, the coefficient of kinetic friction of above-mentioned cosmetic composition is 0.06 ~ 0.11, the above-mentioned feature preparing the method for cosmetic composition is, comprises with the step of the weight ratio of 1.0:0 ~ 3.9:0.5 ~ 2.7 mixing nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant.
12. 1 kinds of methods preparing cosmetic composition, the coefficient of kinetic friction of above-mentioned cosmetic composition is greater than 0.11, the above-mentioned feature preparing the method for cosmetic composition is, comprises with the step of the weight ratio of 0 ~ 1.0:2.7 ~ 20.0:2.7 ~ 18.0 mixing nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant.
13. 1 kinds of methods preparing cosmetic composition, the coefficient of kinetic friction of above-mentioned cosmetic composition is less than 0.06, the above-mentioned feature preparing the method for cosmetic composition is, comprises with the step of the weight ratio of 1.0:0 ~ 5.7:0.3 ~ 2.0 mixing nonvolatile oil, ethereal oil and colorant.
14. 1 kinds of methods preparing cosmetic composition, is characterized in that, the cosmetic composition of above-mentioned cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3.
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| CN1543331A (en) * | 2001-08-17 | 2004-11-03 | Sunscreen composition | |
| CN1835732A (en) * | 2003-05-22 | 2006-09-20 | 莱雅公司 | Water-in-oil emulsion foundation comprising a polyol |
| CN1921821A (en) * | 2004-02-26 | 2007-02-28 | 宝洁公司 | Make-up composition |
| CN1925830A (en) * | 2004-02-26 | 2007-03-07 | 宝洁公司 | Solid water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic composition |
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| KR20140072548A (en) * | 2012-12-05 | 2014-06-13 | 코웨이 주식회사 | Make-up cosmetic composition having high glossy and sensation of use |
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| CN1543331A (en) * | 2001-08-17 | 2004-11-03 | Sunscreen composition | |
| CN1835732A (en) * | 2003-05-22 | 2006-09-20 | 莱雅公司 | Water-in-oil emulsion foundation comprising a polyol |
| CN1921821A (en) * | 2004-02-26 | 2007-02-28 | 宝洁公司 | Make-up composition |
| CN1925830A (en) * | 2004-02-26 | 2007-03-07 | 宝洁公司 | Solid water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic composition |
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