CN105007894A - Plant lipid composition for modulating functions of keratinous materials, method for modulating said functions and use of said plant lipids - Google Patents

Plant lipid composition for modulating functions of keratinous materials, method for modulating said functions and use of said plant lipids Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105007894A
CN105007894A CN201380062875.8A CN201380062875A CN105007894A CN 105007894 A CN105007894 A CN 105007894A CN 201380062875 A CN201380062875 A CN 201380062875A CN 105007894 A CN105007894 A CN 105007894A
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Prior art keywords
skin
compositions
metabolism
oil
cell
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Inventor
C.R.弗拉里
D.兹巴迪
G.普莱康奈迪尼兹
I.德亚斯斯桑托斯
M.洛伦西尼
P.达鲁兹莫雷拉
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Natura Cosmeticos SA
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Natura Cosmeticos SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/88Liliopsida (monocotyledons)
    • A61K36/889Arecaceae, Palmae or Palmaceae (Palm family), e.g. date or coconut palm or palmetto
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75Anti-irritant

Abstract

The present invention is directed to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical compositions comprising at least one plant lipid, having as its main application the treatment of keratinous materials, particularly skin, hair, scalp, nails and eyelashes, by modulating the expression of genes responsible for ROS metabolism, lipid metabolism, skin integrity, cell renewal, cell differentiation, strengthening the skin barrier, calcium metabolism, cell proliferation, tissue healing and/or repair, cell adhesion, carbohydrate metabolism, hydration, skin homeostasis/maintenance, skin defense and/or protection, remodeling and/or extracellular matrix synthesis, skin peeling, tissue maintenance, cell signaling, normal development of the epidermis, epidermal barrier function, development of the skin, dermis-epidermis junction, anti-inflammatory or antioxidant action in keratinous materials,; through the modulation of the expression of the genes involved in said functions. The present invention also teaches methods of modulating the expression of genes responsible for such functions of keratinous materials and the use of said plant lipids in the preparation of said compositions.

Description

For regulating the phytolipid composition of the function of keratin material, for regulating the purposes of the method for described function and described vegetable lipid
Invention field
The present invention relates to and comprise the used for cosmetic of at least one vegetable lipid and/or Pharmaceutical composition, its have by regulating function of keratin material as main application to described keratin material, the particularly process of skin, hair, scalp, fingernail and eyelashes, described adjustment is carried out via regulating the gene expression of these functions of participation.
The present invention also relates to regulate the method for the gene expression of this type of function of responsible keratin material and relate to the purposes of described vegetable lipid in the described compositions of preparation.
background of invention
Along with time and aging effect, skin is subject to supporting that required structural protein and these fiber fractionation are in the puzzlement of the minimizing of both materials wherein, cause the loss of robustness and plumpness to it.Regulate several biological processes causes the aging of keratin material; Each adjustment expressed by specific gene of these processes.
One group of material that lipid is made up of several organic compound found in animal, plant and microorganism, it has important energy and metabolic function in organism.Due to the multiformity of these compounds, lipid has a wide range of applications in nutrition with in exploitation cosmetics and medicine, and they also can be used for consumer goods industry (pigment, detergent etc.).
Triglyceride, also referred to as trihydroxy alcohol and ester formed by be connected 3 fatty acid molecules, be the major lipids found in vegetable oil and butter, it is widely used raw material.Vegetable oil and butter are water-insoluble materials, and the ratio of its composition and triglyceride and fatty acid changes along with the kind of raw material sources.Essential difference between vegetable oil and butter is provided by their states at room temperature: oil is liquid and butter is solid.These characteristics strongly relevant to the composition of fatty acid in its triglyceride molecule (Alvarez and Rodriguez, 2000).
Vegetable oil and butter are generally used for as emollient in cosmetics and pharmaceutical preparation, and it is the reagent (Leyden and Rawlings, 2002) by promoting to reduce percutaneous loss of moist (TEWL) wet skin.But, only have few scientific research to show the biological effect promoted when adding in topical composition by vegetable oil and butter.
By scientific research widely, the applicant has found that vegetable lipid directly acts on the functional of keratin material and safeguards relevant gene.
Therefore, the expression of these genes represents a kind of especially new technical method for the treatment of keratin material via the adjustment of vegetable lipid.
invention summary
The object of the invention is cosmetic composition, it is used in particular for topical application, containing acceptable carrier at least one vegetable lipid and a kind of cosmeceutical.
The invention still further relates to a kind of Pharmaceutical composition, it is used in particular for topical application, containing at least one vegetable lipid and the pharmaceutically acceptable carrier of one.
The invention still further relates to vegetable lipid and preparing the purposes in cosmetic composition, described cosmetic composition is used for by regulating with the function of keratin material and/or safeguarding relevant specific gene and processing angle protein material.
In addition, the present invention relates to vegetable lipid and preparing the purposes in Pharmaceutical composition, described Pharmaceutical composition is used for by regulating with the function of keratin material and/or safeguarding relevant gene expression and processing angle protein material.
The present invention also relates to a kind of method of cosmetic or therapeutic treatment, it comprises application compositions of the present invention.
Another object of the present invention regulates and the function of keratin material and/or the method safeguarding relevant gene expression.
accompanying drawing describes
Fig. 1 is the representative schematic diagram of the gene number that display is regulated by different vegetable lipid disclosed in this invention.Arrow upwards represents that it expresses the number gene increased relative to contrast (contrast=1), and downward arrow represents and contrasts (contrasting=1) and compare it with respective and express the number gene reduced.
detailed Description Of The Invention
The present invention relates to used for cosmetic and/or Pharmaceutical composition, particularly relate to the process of keratin material, described compositions comprises at least one vegetable lipid and a kind of cosmeceutical or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.
In the context of the present invention, " keratin material " means skin, hair, scalp and the appendages of skin (fingernail, eyelashes and eyebrow).
Preferably, compositions of the present invention comprises vegetable lipid, and described vegetable lipid is selected from and such as belongs to the auspicious palmitic acid of (Euterpe), hair from Theobroma (Theobroma), bitter oily Melia (Carapa), Brazilian Acai and belong to (Mauritia), Passiflora (Passiflora), the vegetable oil of star fruit palm fibre belongs to (Astrocaryum), Portugal fruit Trachycarpus (Oenocarpus), Elaeis guineensis Jacq. belongs to (Elaeis) and South America Nutmeg (Virola) plant acquisition and butter.
More preferably, described vegetable lipid can be selected from Acai oil (acai oil), peace ground sieve fragrant plant oil (andiroba oil), palm fruit oil (buriti oil), Herba Passiflorae Caeruleae fruit oil (passion fruit oil), palm olein (palm olein), simple and unsophisticated A Su fruit oil (cupuacu butter), cocoa butter, babassu butterfat (murumuru butter), Pa Tawa oil (pataua oil), Cera Flava resin and/or its mixture.
The amount of the vegetable lipid in compositions of the present invention depends on required used for cosmetic or medicinal effects naturally, therefore can enclose interior change wide in range.
In a specific embodiment, at least one vegetable lipid is with scope from about 0.01% to about 50% weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 20 wt%, more preferably from about the amount of 1% to about 5% weight is present in cosmetic composition of the present invention, and described amount is based on the gross weight of compositions.
compositions
Compositions of the present invention can be ingested, inject or directly apply to keratin material.Depend on the approach of giving, the galenic form that compositions of the present invention can normally use and cosmetic forms provide.
For being applied topically to keratin material, compositions of the present invention can aqueous, alcoholic or oily solution, dispersion, emulsion, suspension, the aerosol composition comprising pressurized propellant, microcapsule, microgranule or ion or nonionic vesicle dispersions form present.
More specifically, unrestricted by way of example, people can mention gel, general lotion such as aftershave lotion and knit tightly agent (fastener), foam, cream is such as face, hair (as defying age cream and combing cream) or other body region clean, protection, the lotion for the treatment of or nursing, makeup removing agent such as foundation cream (foundation), lip pomade, facial film, nial polish, eyeliner, eye shadow (shadow), powder, in other form known to the skilled, opacifier, Emulsion, mist agent (mist), oil, butter, soap slab, liquid wash soap or non-washed soap, shampoo, conditioner (conditioner), approved product, reconstructors (restructurer), wetting agent, deodorizer, opacifier, depilatory cream, bath water, cosmetics, comprise the aerosol composition of pressurized propellant, dye composite, for long-acting hair-curling or the compositions of straight hair and the compositions for scalp treatment
For injection application, compositions of the present invention can the form of aqueous or oiliness lotion or slurry form provide.
For oral application, described compositions can capsule, tablet, granule, syrup form, or any other medicines form well known by persons skilled in the art provides.
The amount of the various compositions of the present composition is that conventional those amounts for considered field do not limit the present invention.
Compositions of the present invention is prepared with method known to those skilled in the art.
optional component
For providing the cosmetic composition of the present invention and Pharmaceutical composition with some desirable characteristics that still can not realize by aforementioned component, the optional component with its character adaptation can be added.Some component that can join in described compositions is listed below.
Chelating agen can join in compositions of the present invention, such as, and aminoacid, EDTA, dimercaptopropanol, BAL and etidronic acid (etidronic acid).Described chelating agen can the concentration of scope between 0.10 and 0.50% of compositions add.
The following instance of emulsifying agent can be mentioned: alkoxylated carboxylic acids, phosphorus compound, fatty acids as and be not limited to the mixture of tristerin/PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, tristerin and polysorbate, such as, polysorbate60.Described emulsifying agent can the concentration between 1 and 5% exist.
As the example of wetting agent, biopolymer and derivant can be mentioned, and also have alcohol, such as glycerol and propylene glycol.Described wetting agent can the concentration between 1 and 10% exist.
As opacifier, physics or chemical filter can be added.The example that can be used for the opacifier of the present composition is ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, 4-p-Methoxymethylcinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamate acetoacetic ester, 4-octyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene (octocrylene), BP-3, Uvinul A Plus, avobenzone (avobenzone), Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, Uvasorb HEB (dietilhexilbutamido triazone), diglycollic amide Methoxycinnamate (diethanolamide methoxycinnamate), homosalate (homosalate), Uvinul T 150, poly-1 5, benzoxazolyl phenylethyl hexyl amine is two-triazine, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid 2,6-ethylhexyl, PAROSOL 1789, titanium dioxide, the mixture (Parsol TX) of silicon dioxide and polydimethylsiloxane, bisoctrizol (Tinosorb M), two ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxybenzene triazine (bemotrizinol) (Tinosorb S), phenyl dibenzimidazole base tetrasulfonic acid disodium (Neo Heliopan AP) or its one or more mixture.Described lightscreening agent can the concentration between 5 and 40% be present in compositions of the present invention.
As the example of emollient, ester, fatty acid, alcohol, vegetable polymer, ether, oil & fat can be mentioned, such as benzoic acid Arrcostab, cetyl lactate, cetiol sensoft, carbonic acid dioctyl ester (dicaprilyl carbonate), isononyl isononanoate, macadimia nut ethyl oleate (macadamiate acetate), caprylic/capric triglyceride, pentanediol, palm olein, hexanediol.The concentration that described emollient can be included between 1 and 10% exists.
As denseness agent (consistency agent), can fatty alcohol be mentioned, such as, hexadecanol and cetostearyl alcohol.The concentration that described denseness agent can be included between 0.2 and 5% exists.
As thickening agent/viscosity agent, carbomer, polymer, natural gum and salt can be added, such as, alkyl acrylate, Carbopol, xanthan gum and sodium chloride.The concentration that described thickening agent can be included between 0.2 and 5% exists.
As sensory modifier (sensory modifier), silicone, starch, synthetic polymer and mineral can be added.The example of sensory modifier be D5/D6 Cyclomethicone, Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer (crospolymer), tapioca, nylon, silicon dioxide and other.Described modifier is present in compositions of the present invention with the concentration between 1 and 8%.
As antioxidant, such as, phenol such as BHT, BHA, vitamin C, OPC from Semen Vitis viniferae can be added, or even antioxidant complex.
In a specific embodiment, add the antioxidant complex of the applicant's exploitation, it is made up of the combination of coffee-extract, lycopene and vitamin E.
In another specific embodiment, add the antioxidant complex of the applicant's exploitation, it is made up of the combination of green tea extract, dry cocoa extract and tocopherol acetas.
Described antioxidant can compositions 0.1 and 0.5% between concentration exist.
As the oil in compositions used in the present invention and wax have vaseline, Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin, sunflower oil, perhydro-squalene, purcelin oil, silicone oil, Cyclomethicone, Mel, Brazil wax, paraffin and other.
Example as solvent has water, oil or lower alcohol, particularly ethanol and isopropyl alcohol and propylene glycol.
As gellant, hydrophilic gellant can be added, such as CVP Carbopol ETD2050 (carbomer), acrylic copolymer, such as acrylate/alkyl acrylate copolymer, polyacrylamide, polysaccharide, such as hydroxy propyl cellulose, naturally occurring resin and clay.As hydrophilic gellant, the slaine of bentonite, fatty acid can be mentioned, such as aluminium stearate and hydrophobic silica, ethyl cellulose and polyethylene.
As antiseptic, can add alcohol and heterocyclic compound, such as phenyl phenol, methyl chloride are for isothiazolone and Methylisothiazolinone.The described antiseptic concentration that can be included between 0.01 and 2% is present in compositions of the present invention.
As pH adjusting agent, alkanolamine and inorganic base can be added, such as triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide and other pH adjusting agent well known by persons skilled in the art.Described adjusting agent adds with the amount being enough to reach required pH.
Also conditioner can be added, such as the combination of polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol TEA or dimethiconol and TEA DBS.
Also conventional surfactants can be added, such as cocamido propyl betaine, decyl polyglucose and sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate.
Also pearling agent can be added, such as distearyl acid diol ester, diglycol stearate or distearyl acid diethylene glycol ester.
optional additional active agent
If needed, additional active agent can join in used for cosmetic and/or Pharmaceutical composition of the present invention.Wherein, following activating agent can be mentioned, such as:
-albumen and protein hydrolysate, aminoacid, urea, allantoin, sugar and sugar derivatives, such as biological carbohydrate gum, particularly biological carbohydrate gum 3, vitamin is retinol (vitamin A), tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivant thereof such as, alcohol and plant extract, such as be not limited to the quintessence oil wait of wing stem Herba Passiflorae Caeruleae (Passiflora alata) extract, green tea, Fructus Vitis viniferae OPC, cocoa extract, Eugenia javanica Lam (jambu) extract, endeavor river pear (pitanga), essential fatty acid, ceramide, quintessence oil, salicylic acid and derivant thereof;
The regulator of-cutaneous pigmentation and/or propagation and/or differentiation, such as tretinoin and isomer thereof, retinol and ester, vitamin D and derivant thereof, estrogen such as estradiol, levonorgestrel, ethinylestradiol, kojic acid (kojic acid) and hydroquinone;
-antibacterial, the such as antibiotic of cleocin phosphate, erythromycin or Tetracyclines;
-antiparasitic, particularly metronidazole, crotamiton or pyrethroid;
-antifungal, especially glyoxaline compound, such as econazole, ketoconazole or miconazole and salt thereof, polyenic compounds, such as amphotericin B, allyl amine compounds, such as terbinafine, or alternative Octopirox;
-antiviral agent, such as acyclovir;
-steroidal anti-inflammatory medicine, such as hydrocortisone, betamethasone valerate, clobetasol propionate or NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug), such as ibuprofen and salt thereof, celecoxib and salt, diclofenac and salt thereof, aspirin, acetaminophen or biosone (glycyrrhetinic acid);
-anesthetis, such as lidocaine hydrochloride and derivant thereof;
-pruritus, such as Sandostene (thenaldine), alimemazine or Cyproheptadine;
-keratolytic agent, such as α-and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids or β-one carboxylic acid, its salt, amide or ester, hydroxyacetic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, citric acid, n-capryl alcohol-5-salicylic acid etc.
-antifree radical agent, such as alpha-tocopherol and ester thereof, superoxide dismutase, metal-chelator or ascorbic acid and ester thereof;
-antiseborrheic, such as progesterone;
-dandruff removing agent, such as zinc pyridinethione and Octopirox;
The agent of-anti-acne, such as, as tretinoin and benzoyl peroxide
-Anti-hair loss agent, such as minoxidil;
-lipid-lowering agent, such as atorvastatin, simvastatin, pravastatin;
-antidepressant (antidrepressive agent)/intramuscular relaxant, such as, be not limited to venlafaxine, lorazepam, gabapentin;
-antiacid secretogogue, such as omeprazole, lansoprazole, R-lansoprazole, esomeprazole, pantoprazole, rabeprazole;
-diuretic, such as hydrochlorothiazide, sildenafil citrate.
method
The present invention also relates to a kind of method of cosmetic or therapeutic treatment, it comprises the following steps:
A) cosmetic of the present invention or the therapeutic combination of effective dose is separated;
B) effective dose described in the area applications expecting to accept to process.
In a preferred embodiment, method that is cosmetic or therapeutic treatment of the present invention comprises by giving the keratin material of the compositions adjustment as defined in the present invention, particularly skin, hair, scalp, following functions in fingernail and eyelashes: ROS metabolism, lipid metabolism, skin integrity, cell turnover, cell differentiation, strengthen skin barrier, calcium metabolism, cell proliferation, organization healing and/or reparation, cell adhesion, carbohydrate metabolism, hydration, skin glove avulsion/maintenance, skin defence and/or protection, reinvent and/or extracellular matrix synthesis, skin peeling, organizational protection, cellular signal transduction, the normal development of epidermis, epidermal barrier function, skin development, dermal epidermal junction, antiinflammatory or antioxidation.Those skilled in the art should know the optimal set compound how selected for required object in instruction disclosed in this description.
purposes
The invention still further relates to vegetable lipid and preparing the purposes in used for cosmetic or Pharmaceutical composition, described compositions is passed through the function of adjustment and keratin material and/or is safeguarded the expression of relevant specific gene, processing angle protein material.
the gene that compositions of the present invention regulates
Described gene listed by table 1, and it expresses the adjustment by compositions of the present invention.
Compositions of the present invention has the object attribute for the treatment of keratin material, as what can arrive seen in the embodiment hereafter proposed.
Following examples illustrate compositions of the present invention, method and purposes, and do not represent any restriction to them.The ratio indicated is weight percentage.
Embodiment
Test and ROS metabolism in reconstruction people epidermal cell culture thing, lipid metabolism, skin integrity, cell turnover, cell differentiation, strengthening skin barrier, calcium metabolism, cell proliferation, organization healing and/or reparation, cell adhesion, carbohydrate metabolism, hydration, skin glove avulsion/maintenance, skin defence and/or protection, reinvent and/or extracellular matrix synthesis, skin exfoliation, organizational protection, cellular signal transduction, the normal development of epidermis, epidermal barrier function, skin develops, dermal epidermal junction, the gene expression that antiinflammatory or antioxidation are correlated with.
This analysis adopts the 3D culture model rebuilding people's epidermis to carry out in vitro.Culture (0.63 cm2), in suitable culture medium, maintains 14 days in the greenhouse of 37 DEG C and 5% CO2.
by qRT-PCR TaqMan array to the analysis of gene expression:
By qRT-PCR to the expression of one or more genes between the sample of the com-parison and analysis of gene expression under the different process adopting vegetable lipid, to evaluate these impact of process on the expression of these genes.
The analysis (table 1) of 384 gene expressions is carried out in the reconstruction people epidermal cell culture thing through benefiting from the process that different raw materials (n=3) carries out, and is diluted by described raw material in the mineral oil being used as carrier.
With reference to the Ct value of gene (18S ribosomal RNA) and target gene by deducting the value calculating from experimental group (with mineral oil process or be used in the described vegetable lipid process of diluting in mineral oil).Subsequently, the Ct of experimental group (culture with described vegetable lipid process) is deducted to obtain Ct from matched group (culture with mineral oil process).Finally, by the relative quantification of following equation determination target gene: RQ=2-Ct.The value of > 2.0 and < 0.5 is only considered in analysis subsequently.By t-test evaluation significance,statistical, wherein p-value < 0.05 is considered to significant.
Evaluate following vegetable lipid: Acai oil, peace ground sieve fragrant plant oil, palm fruit oil, Herba Passiflorae Caeruleae fruit oil, palm olein, simple and unsophisticated A Su fruit oil, cocoa butter, babassu butterfat, Pa Tawa oil, Cera Flava resin.
analysis in originality path analysis software (Ingenuity Pathway Analysis Software, IPA)
The value being detected as statistically significant is carried in originality path analysis software (IPA) (http://www.ingenuity.com), with the functional relationship between the gene studying qualification.For the approach/network of each foundation, generate the probability of reflection stochastic generation this network p-mark [p-mark=-log10 (p-value)] and wherein p-value calculate through Fisher Precision Test.This means that the chance of this network of stochastic generation is less than 1/1010 if approach has the p-mark of 10.
The gene that the display of these results is regulated by the compositions and methods of the invention and function.
embodiment 1: Acai oil
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing Acai oil.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
embodiment 2: palm fruit oil
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing palm fruit oil.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
embodiment 3: Herba Passiflorae Caeruleae fruit oil
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing Herba Passiflorae Caeruleae fruit oil.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
embodiment 4: palm olein
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing palm olein.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
embodiment 5: cocoa butter
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing cocoa butter.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
embodiment 6: peace ground sieve fragrant plant oil
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing peace ground sieve fragrant plant oil.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
embodiment 7: simple and unsophisticated A Su fruit oil
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing simple and unsophisticated A Su fruit oil.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
embodiment 8: babassu butterfat
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing babassu butterfat.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
embodiment 9: Cera Flava resin
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing Cera Flava resin.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
embodiment 10: Pa Tawa oil
For function and/or the maintenance of keratin material, the particularly used for cosmetic and Pharmaceutical composition of their performance tests in regulator gene expression containing Pa Tawa oil.Positive findings is demonstrated to following functions:
result
As a result, attribute above-mentioned is confirmed.Also determine the gene number regulated at the different components tested in the works.The results are shown in Fig. 1.Arrow upwards represents that it is expressed relative to matched group increases the number gene of (gene of induction), and downward arrow represents and compare it separately and express the number gene reducing (gene of preventing).
embodiment 11
shampoo Compositions
embodiment 12
body massage oil (Body Oil)

Claims (16)

1., for a compositions for the gene expression of the function and maintenance that regulate responsible keratin material, it is characterized in that comprising vegetable lipid and acceptable carrier pharmaceutically and/or on cosmeceutical.
2. according to the compositions of claim 1, it is characterized in that it is responsible for ROS metabolism for regulating in keratin material, lipid metabolism, skin integrity, cell turnover, cell differentiation, strengthen skin barrier, calcium metabolism, cell proliferation, organization healing and/or reparation, cell adhesion, carbohydrate metabolism, hydration, skin glove avulsion/maintenance, skin defence and/or protection, reinvent and/or extracellular matrix synthesis, skin peeling, organizational protection, cellular signal transduction, the normal development of epidermis, epidermal barrier function, the development of skin, dermal epidermal junction, the gene of antiinflammatory or antioxidation.
3., according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that described vegetable lipid is Acai oil, peace ground sieve fragrant plant oil, palm fruit oil, Herba Passiflorae Caeruleae fruit oil, palm olein, simple and unsophisticated A Su fruit oil, cocoa butter, babassu butterfat, Pa Tawa oil, Cera Flava resin and/or its mixture.
4. according to the compositions of any one of claim 1-3, it is characterized in that described vegetable lipid is with scope from about 0.01% to about 50% weight, preferred from about 0.5% to about 20% weight, more preferably the amount of from about 1% to about 5% weight exists, and described amount is the total weight based on compositions.
5., according to the compositions of any one of claim 1-4, it is characterized in that it is formulated for local, oral or parenteral gives.
6., according to the compositions of claim 5, it is characterized in that it is rendered as the form of aqueous, alcoholic or oily solution, dispersion, emulsion, suspension, the aerosol composition comprising pressurized propellant, microcapsule, the vesicle dispersions of microgranule or ion or nonionic, aqueous or oiliness lotion, serosity, capsule, tablet, granule or syrup.
7., for regulating and the function of keratin material and the method safeguarding relevant gene expression, it is characterized in that comprising the step giving the individual compositions as defined in any one of claim 1-6.
8. according to the method for claim 7, it is characterized in that described gene is responsible for the ROS metabolism in keratin material, lipid metabolism, skin integrity, cell turnover, cell differentiation, strengthen skin barrier, calcium metabolism, cell proliferation, organization healing and/or reparation, cell adhesion, carbohydrate metabolism, hydration, skin glove avulsion/maintenance, skin defence and/or protection, reinvent and/or extracellular matrix synthesis, skin peeling, organizational protection, cellular signal transduction, the normal development of epidermis, epidermal barrier function, the development of skin, dermal epidermal junction, antiinflammatory or antioxidation.
9., according to the method for claim 7 or 8, it is characterized in that it comprises the expression regulating and be selected from following one or more genes: DSC2, GJA1, GJB2, IGF1R, ITGA1, ITGB1, ITGB2, ITGB6, LAMB1, LAMB3, CAT, GPX1, MSRA, MSRB2, NOX1, NOX5, NR1H2, PRDX6, RARB, S100A12, DEFB1, DEFB103A, DEFB4A, CAMP, CDH1, CDSN, CGN, CLDN1, CLDN4, CLDN5, CLDN7, COL17A1, CTNNA1, DSG4, DSP, DST, ELOVL3, F11R, GBA, ITGA6, ITGB4, JUP, KRT1, KRT10, KRT14, KRT15, KRT16, KRT17, KRT19, KRT4, KRT5, KRT6A, KRT7, LAMA5, OCLN, PKP1, PPHLN1, PRSS8, RNASE7, SDC1, SMPD1, STS, TGM1, TGM5, TJP1, TJP2, VCL, CTNNB1, CCND1, CDKN1A, CDKN2A, MDM2, RB1, APAF1, BAD, BAX, BCL2, BID, BIRC7, CASP3, CASP8, CASP9, DEDD, MT2A, TGM2, ANXA1, BTC, MKI67, PLA2G2D, PLCB3, PLCG1, PMAIP1, PTAFR, TGFA, ANXA5, ID1, PLD2, PDGFRA, PDGFRB, HAS1, HAS2, HAS3, SPTLC2, SPTLC3, CCL2, CCL5, CXCL1, CXCL10, PPARGC1A, TBXAS1, TERF1, TERF2, EVPL, IVL, KLF4, LCE2B, LOR, PPL, RPTN, TCHH, TGM3, CLU, GADD45G, HMOX1, IGFBP3, TXN, TXNRD1, TXNRD2, PTGER3, PTGFR, COL7A1, CRNN, CST3, CST6, CTSD, CTSL2, DSC1, DSG1, DSG2, DSG3, KLK5, KLK7, PI3, SLPI, SPINK5, CALML5, CRABP2, GDF15, HBEGF, HOPX, ID2, NR1H3, NR1I2, PPARA, PPARG, SPRR1A, SPRR1B, SPRR2A, SUMO2, SUMO3, TP63, VDR, ATM, ATR, GADD45A, OGG1, PCNA, XPC, ACO1, ACSL5, CYB5R1, ENO1, G6PD, GABPA, HADHB, KL, NDUFV2, OGDH, PKM2, SOD1, SOD2, P2RY2, PLA2G5, PLA2G7, CAV1, COL4A4, FMOD, MATN2, SPARC, TNC, c-myc/MYC, DLX3, EGR1, FOS, JUN, JUND, NFKB1, NFKB2, POU2F1, EGF, IGF1, VEGF/FLT1, SIRT1, AANAT, ASMT, CREB1, CREBBP, CYP19A1, HSD17B2, HTR2A, HTR2B, MTNR1A, MTNR1B, NR3A2/ESR2, NR3C4/AR, PRLR, RORA, RORB, SRD5A1, SRD5A2, TPH1, TPH2, B2M, POLR2A, PPIA, RPLP0, RPLP0P6, AQP3, AQP8, CD44, CTSB, CTSE, CTSL1, HAL, PADI1, PADI2, PADI3, CAPN1, CASP14, ELF3, FLG, FURIN, PPP2R2C, ST14, IL11, IL13, IL18, IL19, TLR1, TLR10, TLR2, TLR4, TLR5, TLR6, TLR9, TNFRSF10A, TNFRSF10B, BDKRB1, CASP1, CCL27, CCR10, CHUK, ICAM1, IFNG, IL10, IL17A, IL1A, IL1B, IL1R1, IL1R2, IL21R, IL22RA1, IL6, ITGA2, LTA, PDE4A, PLCE1, PTGDR, PTGER2, PTGIS, PYCARD, SOCS1, STAT1, STAT3, TBXA2R, TLR3, TNF, TNFRSF1A, TNFRSF1B, BDKRB2, CB1/CNR1, CB2/CNR2, CGRPR/CALCRL, CHRNA4, IL8, LTB4R, NK2/TACR2, NK3/TACR3, P2RX3, TAC1, TACR1, TRPV1, TRPV3, TRPV4, VPAC1/VIPR1, VPAC2/VIPR2, ACACA, ASAH1, HMGCR, PSAP, SGMS1, SPTLC1, SREBF2, UGCG, GLB1, ADAM9, MMP1, MMP10, MMP2, MMP3, MMP9, SERPINE1, TIMP1, TIMP2, TMPRSS6, PLCB1, POMC, F2RL1, FGFR2, GPNMB, DRD2, MC1R, OPRM1, PCSK1, PCSK2, PCSK6, PTGS1, PTGS2, CANX, HSP27/HSPB1, HSP27/HSPB2, HSP70/HSPA1B, HSPA1A, HSP90AA1, HSPBP1, ATF2, EGFR, HPSE, MAX, NFKBIZ, PLCB2, TGFB1, TGFBR1, TP53, XPA, POT1, TERT, CSF2, EDN1, EDNRB, FGFR1, NGF, PDGFA, PDGFB, PLA2G10, PLA2G2A, PPARD, PTGES2, RXFP1, RXFP2, SORBS3, VEGFA, VEGFB, VEGFC and VEGFD/FIGF.
10. according to the method for claim 9, it is characterized in that it comprises the expression that induction is selected from following one or more genes: CGRPR/CALCRL, SLPI, PPARG, MMP1, MMP10, CCR10, CDH1, DSG3, DSP, JUP, KRT1, KRT10, G6PD, GLB1, PLA2G7, PLD2, PTGS1, SOD1, DEFB1, STAT3, CASP1, CAT, PRDX6, SPTLC3, PDGFB, SREBF2, PDGFB, IL1A, IL1B, IL8, and IL18.
The method of 11. foundation claim 11, is characterized in that it comprises the expression prevented and be selected from following one or more genes: DSC2, GJA1, GJB2, IGF1R, ITGA1, ITGB1, ITGB2, ITGB6, LAMB1, LAMB3, GPX1, MSRA, MSRB2, NOX1, NOX5, NR1H2, RARB, S100A12, DEFB103A, DEFB4A, CAMP, CDSN, CGN, CLDN1, CLDN4, CLDN5, CLDN7, COL17A1, CTNNA1, DSG4, DST, ELOVL3, F11R, GBA, ITGA6, ITGB4, KRT14, KRT15, KRT16, KRT17, KRT19, KRT4, KRT5, KRT6A, KRT7, LAMA5, OCLN, PKP1, PPHLN1, PRSS8, RNASE7, SDC1, SMPD1, STS, TGM1, TGM5, TJP1, TJP2, VCL, CTNNB1, CCND1, CDKN1A, CDKN2A, MDM2, RB1, APAF1, BAD, BAX, BCL2, BID, BIRC7, CASP3, CASP8, CASP9, DEDD, MT2A, TGM2, ANXA1, BTC, MKI67, PLA2G2D, PLCB3, PLCG1, PMAIP1, PTAFR, TGFA, ANXA5, ID1, PDGFRA, PDGFRB, HAS1, HAS2, HAS3, SPTLC2, CCL2, CCL5, CXCL1, CXCL10, PPARGC1A, TBXAS1, TERF1, TERF2, EVPL, IVL, KLF4, LCE2B, LOR, PPL, RPTN, TCHH, TGM3, CLU, GADD45G, HMOX1, IGFBP3, TXN, TXNRD1, TXNRD2, PTGER3, PTGFR, COL7A1, CRNN, CST3, CST6, CTSD, CTSL2, DSC1, DSG1, DSG2, KLK5, KLK7, PI3, SPINK5, CALML5, CRABP2, GDF15, HBEGF, HOPX, ID2, NR1H3, NR1I2, PPARA, SPRR1A, SPRR1B, SPRR2A, SUMO2, SUMO3, TP63, VDR, ATM, ATR, GADD45A, OGG1, PCNA, XPC, ACO1, ACSL5, CYB5R1, ENO1, GABPA, HADHB, KL, NDUFV2, OGDH, PKM2, SOD2, P2RY2, PLA2G5, CAV1, COL4A4, FMOD, MATN2, SPARC, TNC, c-myc/MYC, DLX3, EGR1, FOS, JUN, JUND, NFKB1, NFKB2, POU2F1, EGF, IGF1, VEGF/FLT1, SIRT1, AANAT, ASMT, CREB1, CREBBP, CYP19A1, HSD17B2, HTR2A, HTR2B, MTNR1A, MTNR1B, NR3A2/ESR2, NR3C4/AR, PRLR, RORA, RORB, SRD5A1, SRD5A2, TPH1, TPH2, B2M, POLR2A, PPIA, RPLP0, RPLP0P6, AQP3, AQP8, CD44, CTSB, CTSE, CTSL1, HAL, PADI1, PADI2, PADI3, CAPN1, CASP14, ELF3, FLG, FURIN, PPP2R2C, ST14, IL11, IL13, IL19, TLR1, TLR10, TLR2, TLR4, TLR5, TLR6, TLR9, TNFRSF10A, TNFRSF10B, BDKRB1, CCL27, CHUK, ICAM1, IFNG, IL10, IL17A, IL1A, IL1R1, IL1R2, IL21R, IL22RA1, IL6, ITGA2, LTA, PDE4A, PLCE1, PTGDR, PTGER2, PTGIS, PYCARD, SOCS1, STAT1, TBXA2R, TLR3, TNF, TNFRSF1A, TNFRSF1B, BDKRB2, CB1/CNR1, CB2/CNR2, CHRNA4, IL8, LTB4R, NK2/TACR2, NK3/TACR3, P2RX3, TAC1, TACR1, TRPV1, TRPV3, TRPV4, VPAC1/VIPR1, VPAC2/VIPR2, ACACA, ASAH1, HMGCR, PSAP, SGMS1, SPTLC1, UGCG, ADAM9, MMP1, MMP2, MMP3, MMP9, SERPINE1, TIMP1, TIMP2, TMPRSS6, PLCB1, POMC, F2RL1, FGFR2, GPNMB, DRD2, MC1R, OPRM1, PCSK1, PCSK2, PCSK6, PTGS2, CANX, HSP27/HSPB1, HSP27/HSPB2, HSP70/HSPA1B, HSPA1A, HSP90AA1, HSPBP1, ATF2, EGFR, HPSE, MAX, NFKBIZ, PLCB2, TGFB1, TGFBR1, TP53, XPA, POT1, TERT, CSF2, EDN1, EDNRB, FGFR1, NGF, PDGFA, PLA2G10, PLA2G2A, PPARD, PTGES2, RXFP1, RXFP2, SORBS3, VEGFA, VEGFB, VEGFC and VEGFD/FIGF.
The purposes of 12. vegetable lipid, is characterized in that it is for the preparation of the compositions being responsible for the function of keratin material and the gene expression of maintenance for adjustment.
The purposes of 13. foundation claim 12, it is characterized in that it is responsible for ROS metabolism for regulating in keratin material, lipid metabolism, skin integrity, cell turnover, cell differentiation, strengthen skin barrier, calcium metabolism, cell proliferation, organization healing and/or reparation, cell adhesion, carbohydrate metabolism, hydration, skin glove avulsion/maintenance, skin defence and/or protection, reinvent and/or extracellular matrix synthesis, skin peeling, organizational protection, cellular signal transduction, the normal development of epidermis, epidermal barrier function, the development of skin, dermal epidermal junction, the gene expression of antiinflammatory or antioxidation.
The purposes of 14. foundation claim 12 or 13, is characterized in that described vegetable lipid is selected from Acai oil, peace ground sieve fragrant plant oil, palm fruit oil, Herba Passiflorae Caeruleae fruit oil, palm olein, simple and unsophisticated A Su fruit oil, cocoa butter, babassu butterfat, Pa Tawa oil, Cera Flava resin and/or its mixture.
15. 1 kinds by regulating with the function of keratin material and/or safeguarding relevant gene expression and process described keratic Therapeutic Method, it is characterized in that it comprise give the such process of needs experimenter as the compositions defined in any one of claim 1-5.
16. 1 kinds by regulating with the function of keratin material and/or safeguarding relevant gene expression and process described keratic cosmetic method, it is characterized in that it comprise give the such process of needs experimenter as the compositions defined in any one of claim 1-5.
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