CN104705866B - A kind of outdoor clothing structure and composition method that can adjust the ventilation air flow under the clothes - Google Patents
A kind of outdoor clothing structure and composition method that can adjust the ventilation air flow under the clothes Download PDFInfo
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- CN104705866B CN104705866B CN201510140898.7A CN201510140898A CN104705866B CN 104705866 B CN104705866 B CN 104705866B CN 201510140898 A CN201510140898 A CN 201510140898A CN 104705866 B CN104705866 B CN 104705866B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/28—Means for ventilation
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
- A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
- A41D31/14—Air permeable, i.e. capable of being penetrated by gases
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H42/00—Multi-step production lines for making clothes
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Abstract
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明属于服装设计技术领域,特别是涉及到及一种户外服装构成方法。The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing design, and in particular relates to a method for forming outdoor clothing.
背景技术Background technique
服装对人体与环境之间的热交换具有决定性影响。在户外作业或户外运动过程中,如果人体产生的热量不能及时通过服装传递到外界环境,在衣下将会形成热蓄积,从而对作业安全和人体健康造成较大危害。目前户外服装促进体热向外传递的途径主要有三种:衣下空气层直接透过服装面料与外界环境之间进行交换;衣下空气层通过服装开口部位与外界环境形成自然对流进行交换;由于人体运动或环境风速使衣下空气层通过服装开口部位与外界环境形成强迫对流进行交换(通常称为“风箱效应”)。可见,服装面料性能以及服装开口等设计特征是影响服装通风效应的主要因素,并最终决定人体着装的生理舒适性。同时,国内学者采用开口度指标将服装开口部位大小进行量化,研究了开口量对服装热阻的影响。结果显示,随开口度增大,服装热阻呈上升趋势,但当开口处空气层厚度超过1.5cm时,服装热阻急剧下降。Clothing has a decisive influence on the heat exchange between the human body and the environment. During outdoor work or outdoor sports, if the heat generated by the human body cannot be transferred to the external environment through clothing in time, heat accumulation will form under the clothing, which will cause great harm to work safety and human health. At present, there are three main ways for outdoor clothing to promote the transfer of body heat to the outside: the air layer under the clothing directly exchanges with the external environment through the clothing fabric; the air layer under the clothing exchanges with the external environment through natural convection through the opening of the clothing; Human body movement or ambient wind speed causes the air layer under the clothing to exchange with the external environment through forced convection (usually called "bellows effect"). It can be seen that the performance of clothing fabrics and design features such as clothing openings are the main factors affecting the ventilation effect of clothing, and ultimately determine the physiological comfort of human clothing. At the same time, domestic scholars quantified the size of clothing openings by using the opening index, and studied the influence of openings on clothing thermal resistance. The results show that as the opening increases, the thermal resistance of the clothing increases, but when the thickness of the air layer at the opening exceeds 1.5 cm, the thermal resistance of the clothing decreases sharply.
户外服装常见开口设计包括领口、袖口、下摆、脚口等服装自然开口形式,也有在服装腋下、胸部、背部等部位增加的开口设计,但未设置开口度的大小、开口的可收缩变化以及服装与人体贴合区域的隔离。在人体静止状态下,这种类型的开口往往处于闭合状态,同时由于服装与人体的肩部、胸部、背部等部位保持贴合,从而会导致服装衣下空气层与外界环境之间空气交换不充分,影响对流散热与蒸发散热。因此有必要调配衣下通风气流,改善户外运动人员或工作人员的热湿舒适性。实用新型专利CN200920156211-透气清凉衣服只涉及到开口的网眼布功能,实用新型专利CN201220032913-调温健康服装也是使用服装开口达到散热目的,实用新型专利CN201320206183-一种透气防风型户外服装,涉及到开口和拉链,但均未达到服装内部整体气流调配的效果。因此现有技术当中亟需要一种新型的技术方案来解决这一问题。Common opening designs for outdoor clothing include natural opening forms such as neckline, cuffs, hem, and foot openings. There are also opening designs added to the armpit, chest, and back of clothing, but the size of the opening, the shrinkable change of the opening, and the opening design are not set. Separation of clothing from body-fitting areas. When the human body is at rest, this type of opening is often closed. At the same time, because the clothing is kept in close contact with the shoulders, chest, back and other parts of the human body, the air exchange between the air layer under the clothing and the external environment will be poor. Sufficiently, it affects convective heat dissipation and evaporative heat dissipation. Therefore, it is necessary to adjust the ventilation air flow under the clothes to improve the thermal and humidity comfort of outdoor sports personnel or staff. Utility model patent CN200920156211-breathable and cool clothing only involves the mesh cloth function of the opening, utility model patent CN201220032913-temperature-regulating health clothing also uses clothing openings to achieve heat dissipation, utility model patent CN201320206183-a breathable and windproof outdoor clothing, involving openings and zippers, but all have not reached the effect of overall airflow distribution inside the clothing. Therefore, there is an urgent need for a novel technical solution in the prior art to solve this problem.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明所要解决的技术问题是:提供一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构及构成方法,改善现有户外服装通风效果的不足,达到服装内部整体的气流调配效果,提高其穿着舒适性,增强户外运动或作业的环境适应性。The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide an outdoor clothing structure and composition method that can adjust the ventilation airflow under the clothing, improve the ventilation effect of the existing outdoor clothing, achieve the overall airflow adjustment effect inside the clothing, and improve its wearing comfort , enhance the environmental adaptability of outdoor sports or work.
一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构,其特征是:包括户外服装上衣和户外服装裤子,所述户外服装上衣包括前衣身、后衣身、衣袖以及衣领,所述户外服装裤子包括前裤片和后裤片,所述前衣身的肩部设置有3D网孔布Ⅳ;前衣身的胛部包括外层防护布Ⅱ和内层网孔布;前衣身的胸部设置有胸部开口,胸部开口上设置有拉链Ⅲ,胸部开口的下部为外层防护布Ⅰ;前衣身的下摆处设置有下摆抽绳;An outdoor clothing structure that can adjust the ventilation air flow under the clothes, it is characterized in that it includes an outdoor clothing top and outdoor clothing trousers, the outdoor clothing top includes a front body, a rear body, sleeves and a collar, the outdoor clothing The trousers include front trousers and rear trousers, the shoulders of the front body are provided with 3D mesh cloth IV; the blades of the front body include outer protective cloth II and inner mesh cloth; the chest of the front body A chest opening is provided with a zipper III on the chest opening, and the lower part of the chest opening is the outer protective cloth I; the hem of the front body is provided with a hem drawstring;
所述后衣身的肩部设置有后肩部开口,后衣身的腰部设置有后背布,所述后背布上设置有后腰通风口袋,后背布与后腰通风口袋形成后背部开口,所述后腰通风口袋上设置有按扣;后衣身的下摆处设置有后衣身下摆抽绳;The shoulders of the back body are provided with rear shoulder openings, the waist of the back body is provided with a back cloth, the back cloth is provided with a back waist ventilation pocket, and the back cloth and the back waist ventilation pocket form a back There is an opening, and snap buttons are arranged on the back waist ventilation pocket; the hem of the back body is provided with a drawstring at the hem of the back body;
所述衣袖设置为两个,每个衣袖与前衣身肩部的连接处均设置有前袖笼开口Ⅱ,与后衣身的肩部连接处均设置有后袖笼开口Ⅱ;每个衣袖与前衣身胛部的连接处均设置有前袖笼开口Ⅰ,与后衣身的后肩胛部的连接处均设置有后袖笼开口Ⅰ;每个衣袖上均设置有袖底缝开口,每个衣袖上均设置有袖口扣;每个衣袖的腋下位置设置有袖侧缝,袖侧缝上设置有侧缝拉链;There are two sleeves, and each sleeve is provided with a front armhole opening II at the joint between the sleeve and the shoulder of the front body, and a rear armhole opening II is provided at the joint with the shoulder of the rear body; Each sleeve is provided with a front armhole opening Ⅰ at the joint of the front body scapula, and a rear armhole opening Ⅰ is provided at the joint with the back shoulder blade of the back body; each sleeve is provided with a sleeve The bottom seam is open, and each sleeve is provided with cuff buttons; the underarm position of each sleeve is provided with sleeve side seams, and the sleeve side seams are provided with side seam zippers;
所述前裤片设置有前裤片插袋,前裤片插袋上设置有前裤片插袋开口;前裤片膝盖位置设置有裤腿上开口和裤腿下开口;The front trousers piece is provided with a front trousers pocket, and the front trousers pocket is provided with a front trousers pocket opening; the front trousers knee position is provided with an upper trouser leg opening and a trouser leg lower opening;
所述后裤片的臀部位置为后裤臀布,后裤臀布设置有臀部开口,后裤片两条裤腿外侧的裤腿侧缝处设置有裤侧拉链开口,裤侧拉链开口内设置为拉链内网孔布;所述前裤片和后裤片的裤脚处均设置有裤脚抽绳。The position of the buttocks of the rear trousers is the rear trousers cloth, the rear trousers cloth is provided with a buttock opening, the side seam of the trouser legs outside the two trouser legs of the rear trousers is provided with a trousers side zipper opening, and the trousers side zipper opening is set as a zipper Inner mesh cloth; the trouser legs of the front trousers and the rear trousers are all provided with drawstrings at the trousers.
一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装的构成方法,其特征是:包括以下步骤,A method for constituting an outdoor garment capable of adjusting the ventilation air flow under the garment, which is characterized in that it comprises the following steps,
步骤一、按照平面设计的方法画出所述户外服装的结构版型,将版型的前衣身、后衣身、前裤片以及后裤片用大头钉贴合在人形台上;Step 1, draw the structural version of the outdoor clothing according to the method of graphic design, and fit the front body, rear body, front trousers and rear trousers of the version on the figure platform with tacks;
步骤二、在人台的肩部、背部、臀部的突出位置标记出设置开口结构的轮廓,在衣身的腋下、裤身的侧缝处标记出设置开口结构的位置和开口的大小;Step 2. Mark the outline of the opening structure at the protruding positions of the shoulders, back, and buttocks of the avatar, and mark the position and size of the opening structure at the armpit of the body and the side seam of the trouser body;
步骤三、将前衣身、后衣身、前裤片以及后裤片从所述步骤一中的人形台上取下,放置在平面上,在平面上补充裤身上膝盖处及裤袋处开口结构的轮廓标记;Step 3. Remove the front body, rear body, front trousers and rear trousers from the figure platform in step 1, place them on a plane, and add the openings at the knees and trouser pockets on the trousers on the plane Contour marking of structures;
步骤四、按照所述步骤二和步骤三标记出开口结构位置,在户外服装的面料和里料上进行裁剪,裁剪后进行缝合,获得可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装。Step 4: Mark the position of the opening structure according to the steps 2 and 3, cut out the fabric and lining of the outdoor clothing, and sew it up after cutting to obtain outdoor clothing that can adjust the ventilation airflow under the clothing.
所述前袖笼开口Ⅰ、前袖笼开口Ⅱ、后袖笼开口Ⅰ、后肩部开口以及后袖笼开口Ⅱ为设置在外层面料上的3D网孔面料,可增加开口处的空气厚度。The front armhole opening I, the front armhole opening II, the rear armhole opening I, the rear shoulder opening and the rear armhole opening II are 3D mesh fabrics arranged on the outer fabric, which can increase the air thickness at the openings.
所述3D网孔面料的厚度为1.5cm。The thickness of the 3D mesh fabric is 1.5cm.
所述侧缝拉链的长度为10cm,所述裤侧拉链开口的长度为50cm。The length of the side seam zipper is 10cm, and the length of the trouser side zipper opening is 50cm.
所述后背部开口和臀部开口包括按扣设计和褶裥,可调节开口处空气厚度。The rear back opening and hip opening include snaps and pleats to adjust the air thickness at the opening.
所述按扣设计包括闭合按扣Ⅰ、打开按扣Ⅰ、闭合按扣Ⅱ以及打开按扣Ⅱ,所述闭合按扣Ⅰ和闭合按扣Ⅱ的厚度为0.5cm,打开按扣Ⅰ和打开按扣Ⅱ的厚度为1.5cm。The snap button design includes a closed snap I, an open snap I, a closed snap II and an open snap II, the thickness of the closed snap I and the closed snap II is 0.5cm, and the open snap I and the open snap are The thickness of buckle II is 1.5cm.
所述褶裥为工字褶,厚度为5cm。The pleats are H-shaped pleats with a thickness of 5cm.
通过上述设计方案,本发明可以带来如下有益效果:一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构及构成方法,改善现有户外服装通风效果的不足,达到服装内部整体的气流调配效果,提高其穿着舒适性,增强户外运动或作业的环境适应性。通过服装3D网孔面料增大开口处空气层厚度,促进体热散失,提高人体热湿舒适性;通过服装开口处按扣、拉链或抽绳的设置,实现衣下通风气流大小的调配,提高人体环境适应性。Through the above design scheme, the present invention can bring the following beneficial effects: an outdoor clothing structure and composition method that can adjust the ventilation airflow under the clothing, improve the ventilation effect of the existing outdoor clothing, achieve the overall airflow adjustment effect inside the clothing, and improve Its wearing comfort enhances the environmental adaptability of outdoor sports or work. Increase the thickness of the air layer at the opening through the 3D mesh fabric of the clothing, promote the loss of body heat, and improve the thermal comfort of the human body; through the setting of buttons, zippers or drawstrings at the opening of the clothing, the adjustment of the size of the ventilation airflow under the clothing can be realized, and the airflow can be improved. Adaptability to the human environment.
附图说明Description of drawings
以下结合附图和具体实施方式对本发明作进一步的说明:The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with accompanying drawing and specific embodiment:
图1为本发明一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构的正面示意图。Fig. 1 is a schematic front view of an outdoor clothing structure capable of adjusting ventilation airflow under clothing according to the present invention.
图2为本发明一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构的背面示意图。Fig. 2 is a schematic view of the back side of an outdoor clothing structure that can adjust the ventilation air flow under the clothes according to the present invention.
图3为本发明一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构的3D网孔布结构示意图。Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of a 3D mesh cloth structure of an outdoor clothing structure that can adjust ventilation airflow under clothing according to the present invention.
图4为本发明一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构的拉链开口结构示意图。Fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of the zipper opening structure of an outdoor clothing structure that can adjust the ventilation air flow under the clothes according to the present invention.
图5为本发明一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构的3D网孔布和拉链开口结构侧面结构示意图。Fig. 5 is a schematic diagram of the side structure of the 3D mesh cloth and the zipper opening structure of an outdoor clothing structure that can adjust the ventilation air flow under the clothes according to the present invention.
图6为本发明一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构的按扣和褶裥开口结构示意图。Fig. 6 is a schematic diagram of the snap button and pleat opening structure of an outdoor clothing structure that can adjust the ventilation air flow under the clothes according to the present invention.
图7为本发明一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构的抽绳开口结构示意图。Fig. 7 is a schematic diagram of the drawstring opening structure of an outdoor clothing structure that can adjust the ventilation airflow under the clothes according to the present invention.
图8为本发明一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构的3D网孔布和拉链开口结构正面结构示意图。Fig. 8 is a schematic diagram of the front structure of the 3D mesh cloth and the zipper opening structure of an outdoor clothing structure that can adjust the ventilation air flow under the clothes according to the present invention.
图9为本发明一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构的按扣开口结构示意图。Fig. 9 is a schematic diagram of the button opening structure of an outdoor clothing structure that can adjust the ventilation airflow under the clothes according to the present invention.
其中1-袖侧缝、2-侧缝拉链、3-前胸布、4-3D网孔布Ⅰ、5-拉链Ⅰ、6-3D网孔布Ⅱ、7-后背布、8-闭合按扣Ⅰ、9-打开按扣Ⅰ、10-褶裥、11-下摆抽绳、12-袖底缝开口、13-胸部开口、14-前袖笼开口Ⅰ、15-前袖笼开口Ⅱ、16-后腰通风口袋、17-后背部开口、18-后袖笼开口Ⅰ、19-后肩部开口、20-后袖笼开口Ⅱ、21-脚口、22-衣袖、23-衣领、24-前裤片插袋、25-拉链Ⅱ、26-3D网孔布Ⅲ、27-后裤臀布、28-闭合按扣Ⅱ、29-打开按扣Ⅱ、30-裤脚抽绳、31-裤腿下开口、32-裤腿上开口、33-前裤片插袋开口、34-拉链内网孔布、35-裤侧拉链开口、36-臀部开口、37-前衣身、38-后衣身、39-前裤片、40-后裤片、41-袖口扣、42-外层防护布Ⅰ、43-拉链Ⅲ、44-外层防护布Ⅱ、45-袖笼贴边、46-内层网孔布、47-3D网孔布Ⅳ、48-后衣身下摆抽绳、49-按扣。1-Sleeve side seam, 2-Side seam zipper, 3-Chest cloth, 4-3D mesh cloth Ⅰ, 5-Zip Ⅰ, 6-3D mesh cloth Ⅱ, 7-Back cloth, 8-Closing button Buckle Ⅰ, 9-Open snap button Ⅰ, 10-Pleats, 11-Hem drawstring, 12-Sleeve bottom seam opening, 13-Chest opening, 14-Front armhole opening Ⅰ, 15-Front armhole opening Ⅱ, 16 -Rear waist ventilation pocket, 17-back opening, 18-back armhole opening Ⅰ, 19-back shoulder opening, 20-back armhole opening II, 21-foot opening, 22-sleeve, 23-collar, 24-front pockets, 25-zipper II, 26-3D mesh fabric III, 27-rear hip fabric, 28-close button II, 29-open button II, 30-drawstring at trouser leg, 31-trouser leg Lower opening, 32-upper opening of trouser legs, 33-front pocket opening, 34-zipper inner mesh cloth, 35-pants side zipper opening, 36-buttock opening, 37-front body, 38-back body, 39 -Front pant panel, 40-Back trouser panel, 41-Cuff button, 42-Outer layer protective fabric Ⅰ, 43-Zip Ⅲ, 44-Outer layer protective fabric II, 45-Armhole welt, 46-Inner layer mesh Cloth, 47-3D mesh cloth Ⅳ, 48-drawstring at the hem of the back body, 49-snap buttons.
具体实施方式detailed description
1、一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装结构,其特征是:包括户外服装上衣和户外服装裤子,所述户外服装上衣包括前衣身37、后衣身38、衣袖22以及衣领23,所述户外服装裤子包括前裤片39和后裤片40,所述前衣身37的肩部设置有3D网孔布Ⅳ47;前衣身37的胛部包括外层防护布Ⅱ44和内层网孔布46;前衣身37的胸部设置有胸部开口13,胸部开口13上设置有拉链Ⅲ43,胸部开口13的下部为外层防护布Ⅰ42;前衣身37的下摆处设置有下摆抽绳11;1. An outdoor clothing structure that can adjust the ventilation airflow under the clothes, it is characterized in that: it includes an outdoor clothing top and outdoor clothing trousers, and the outdoor clothing top includes a front body 37, a rear body 38, sleeves 22 and a collar 23. The outdoor clothing trousers include front trousers 39 and rear trousers 40, and the shoulders of the front body 37 are provided with 3D mesh cloth IV 47; the blades of the front body 37 include outer protective cloth II 44 and inner A layer of mesh cloth 46; the chest of the front body 37 is provided with a chest opening 13, the chest opening 13 is provided with a slide fastener III 43, and the bottom of the chest opening 13 is an outer protective cloth I 42; the hem of the front body 37 is provided with a hem drawer rope 11;
所述后衣身38的肩部设置有后肩部开口19,后衣身38的腰部设置有后背布7,所述后背布7上设置有后腰通风口袋16,后背布7与后腰通风口袋16形成后背部开口17,所述后腰通风口袋16上设置有按扣49;后衣身38的下摆处设置有后衣身下摆抽绳48;The shoulder of the back body 38 is provided with a back shoulder opening 19, and the waist of the back body 38 is provided with a back cloth 7, and the back cloth 7 is provided with a back waist ventilation pocket 16, and the back cloth 7 is connected with the back cloth 7. The rear waist ventilation pocket 16 forms the rear back opening 17, and the rear waist ventilation pocket 16 is provided with snap buttons 49; the hem of the rear garment body 38 is provided with a drawstring 48 at the hem of the rear garment body;
所述衣袖22设置为两个,每个衣袖22与前衣身37肩部的连接处均设置有前袖笼开口Ⅱ15,与后衣身38的肩部连接处均设置有后袖笼开口Ⅱ20;每个衣袖22与前衣身37胛部的连接处均设置有前袖笼开口Ⅰ14,与后衣身38的后肩胛部的连接处均设置有后袖笼开口Ⅰ18;每个衣袖22上均设置有袖底缝开口12,每个衣袖22上均设置有袖口扣41;每个衣袖22的腋下位置设置有袖侧缝1,袖侧缝1上设置有侧缝拉链2;The sleeves 22 are set to two, each sleeve 22 is provided with a front armhole opening II15 at the junction of the shoulders of the front body 37, and a rear armhole is arranged at the junction of the shoulders of the rear body 38. Opening II 20; each sleeve 22 is provided with a front armhole opening I14 at the junction of each sleeve 22 and the scapula of the front body 37, and a rear armhole opening I18 is provided at the junction of the rear shoulder blade of the rear body 38; each The sleeve bottom seam opening 12 is arranged on the sleeve 22, and the cuff button 41 is arranged on each sleeve 22; the sleeve side seam 1 is arranged on the armpit position of each sleeve 22, and the side seam 1 is arranged on the sleeve side seam 1. seam zip2;
所述前裤片39设置有前裤片插袋24,前裤片插袋24上设置有前裤片插袋开口33;前裤片39膝盖位置设置有裤腿上开口32和裤腿下开口31;The front trousers 39 is provided with a front trousers pocket 24, and the front trousers pocket 24 is provided with a front trousers pocket opening 33; the front trousers 39 knee position is provided with an upper trouser leg opening 32 and a trouser leg lower opening 31;
所述后裤片40的臀部位置为后裤臀布27,后裤臀布27设置有臀部开口36,后裤片40两条裤腿外侧的裤腿侧缝处设置有裤侧拉链开口35,裤侧拉链开口35内设置为拉链内网孔布34;所述前裤片39和后裤片40的裤脚处均设置有裤脚抽绳30。The buttocks position of the rear trousers piece 40 is the rear trousers hip cloth 27, the rear trousers buttocks cloth 27 is provided with a buttock opening 36, and the trouser leg side seam on the outside of the two trouser legs of the rear trousers piece 40 is provided with a trousers side zipper opening 35, and the trousers side The inside of the zipper opening 35 is provided with a mesh cloth 34 inside the zipper; the trouser legs of the front trousers 39 and the rear trousers 40 are both provided with drawstrings 30 at the trousers.
一种可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装的构成方法,其特征是:包括以下步骤,A method for constituting an outdoor garment capable of adjusting the ventilation air flow under the garment, which is characterized in that it comprises the following steps,
步骤一、按照平面设计的方法画出所述户外服装的结构版型,将版型的前衣身、后衣身、前裤片以及后裤片用大头钉贴合在人形台上;Step 1, draw the structural version of the outdoor clothing according to the method of graphic design, and fit the front body, rear body, front trousers and rear trousers of the version on the figure platform with tacks;
步骤二、在人台的肩部、背部、臀部的突出位置标记出设置开口结构的轮廓,在衣身的腋下、裤身的侧缝处标记出设置开口结构的位置和开口的大小;Step 2. Mark the outline of the opening structure at the protruding positions of the shoulders, back, and buttocks of the avatar, and mark the position and size of the opening structure at the armpit of the body and the side seam of the trouser body;
步骤三、将前衣身、后衣身、前裤片以及后裤片从所述步骤一中的人形台上取下,放置在平面上,在平面上补充裤身上膝盖处及裤袋处开口结构的轮廓标记;Step 3. Remove the front body, rear body, front trousers and rear trousers from the figure platform in step 1, place them on a plane, and add the openings at the knees and trouser pockets on the trousers on the plane Contour marking of structures;
步骤四、按照所述步骤二和步骤三标记出开口结构位置,在户外服装的面料和里料上进行裁剪,裁剪后进行缝合,获得可调配衣下通风气流的户外服装。Step 4: Mark the position of the opening structure according to the steps 2 and 3, cut out the fabric and lining of the outdoor clothing, and sew it up after cutting to obtain outdoor clothing that can adjust the ventilation airflow under the clothing.
所述前袖笼开口Ⅰ14、前袖笼开口Ⅱ15、后袖笼开口Ⅰ18、后肩部开口19以及后袖笼开口Ⅱ20为设置在外层面料上的3D网孔面料,可增加开口处的空气厚度。The front armhole opening I14, the front armhole opening II15, the rear armhole opening I18, the rear shoulder opening 19 and the rear armhole opening II20 are 3D mesh fabrics arranged on the outer fabric, which can increase the air thickness at the opening .
所述3D网孔面料的厚度为1.5cm。The thickness of the 3D mesh fabric is 1.5cm.
所述侧缝拉链2的长度为10cm,所述裤侧拉链开口35的长度为50cm。The length of the side seam zipper 2 is 10cm, and the length of the trouser side zipper opening 35 is 50cm.
所述后背部开口17和臀部开口36包括按扣设计和褶裥10,可调节开口处空气厚度。The back opening 17 and the buttock opening 36 include a snap button design and pleats 10, which can adjust the air thickness at the opening.
所述按扣设计包括闭合按扣Ⅰ8、打开按扣Ⅰ9、闭合按扣Ⅱ28以及打开按扣Ⅱ29,所述闭合按扣Ⅰ8和闭合按扣Ⅱ28的厚度为0.5cm,打开按扣Ⅰ9和打开按扣Ⅱ29的厚度为1.5cm。The snap button design includes a closing snap button I8, an opening snap button I9, a closing snap button II28 and an opening snap button II29, the thickness of the closing snap button I8 and the closing snap button II28 is 0.5cm, and the opening snap button I9 and the opening button The thickness of buckle II 29 is 1.5cm.
所述褶裥10为工字褶,厚度为5cm。The pleats 10 are H-shaped pleats with a thickness of 5 cm.
实施例一、Embodiment one,
上衣的制作流程可以分为“袖片拼合”、“领片拼合”、“衣身拼合”、“装袖“、“装领”几部分,其中衣身上不同类型的开口制作是工艺流程的关键。The production process of the top can be divided into several parts: "sleeve assembly", "neck assembly", "body assembly", "sleeve assembly" and "collar assembly". Among them, the production of different types of openings on the body is the key to the process .
上衣前胸部的胸部开口13、前袖笼开口Ⅰ14、肩部前袖笼开口Ⅱ15、后背部的后袖笼开口Ⅱ20、后背部开口17、后袖笼开口Ⅰ18、后肩部开口19均以“内层网眼面料-中层3D网孔面料-外层防护面料”三层式结构构成,其中开口前袖笼开口Ⅰ14、肩部前袖笼开口Ⅱ15、后背部的后袖笼开口Ⅱ20、后袖笼开口Ⅰ18和后肩部开口19为常开型开口,不可调节开口的长度及高度;而前胸部位的胸部开口13通过拉链Ⅲ43可以调节开口的长度,后背部开口17通过按扣49可以调节开口的高度。另外在上衣袖子内侧缝处设置了袖底缝开口12以控制腋下通风,后腰通风口袋16通过“内层网眼面料-外层防护面料”的结构设置了常开型开口。Chest opening 13, front armhole opening Ⅰ14, shoulder front armhole opening Ⅱ15, back armhole opening Ⅱ20, back back opening 17, back armhole opening Ⅰ18, and back shoulder opening 19 are all marked with " Inner mesh fabric-middle layer 3D mesh fabric-outer protective fabric" three-layer structure, in which opening front armhole opening I14, shoulder front armhole opening II15, rear armhole opening II20 on the back, rear armhole opening The opening I18 and the back shoulder opening 19 are normally open openings, and the length and height of the opening cannot be adjusted; while the chest opening 13 on the front chest can adjust the length of the opening through the zipper III43, and the back opening 17 can adjust the opening through the snap button 49 the height of. In addition, a sleeve bottom seam opening 12 is provided at the inside seam of the jacket sleeve to control underarm ventilation, and the back waist ventilation pocket 16 is provided with a normally open opening through the structure of "inner layer mesh fabric-outer layer protective fabric".
实施例二、Embodiment two,
以胸部开口13为例,介绍拉链型开口的制作流程:Taking the chest opening 13 as an example, the production process of the zipper type opening is introduced:
(1)用单针平缝机把把袖笼贴边45内层内层网孔布46缝合;(1) Use a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine to sew up the armhole welt 45 inner layer inner layer mesh cloth 46;
(2)用单针平缝机把裁成小块(1cm×1.5cm×1.5cm)的3D网孔布Ⅳ47的中心与内层网孔布46正面固定,3D网孔面料的分布如图1中服装前胸部位黑色方块所示;(2) Fix the center of the 3D mesh cloth IV 47 cut into small pieces (1cm×1.5cm×1.5cm) with the front of the inner layer mesh cloth 46 with a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine. The distribution of the 3D mesh fabric is shown in Figure 1 It is shown by the black square on the front chest of the middle garment;
(3)用单针平缝机把内层网孔布46、拉链Ⅲ43一边、外层防护布Ⅰ42缝合;(3) Use a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine to sew the inner mesh cloth 46, one side of the zipper III 43, and the outer protective cloth I 42;
(4)用单针平缝机把外层防护布Ⅱ44与拉链Ⅲ43另一边缝合;(4) Use a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine to sew the outer protective cloth II44 to the other side of the zipper III43;
(5)用单针平缝机把外层防护面料Ⅱ44的上端缝边、领圈缝边、及前中心线处的缝边与内层网孔布46缝合固定,留下袖笼处缝边作为开口。(5) Use a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine to sew the upper edge of the outer layer of protective fabric Ⅱ44, the edge of the collar, and the edge of the front center line to the inner mesh cloth 46, leaving the edge of the armhole as an opening.
后背部开口17的制作流程与拉链型开口的制作流程相似,只是把安装拉链的工序换成了安装按扣;而常开型开口后腰通风口袋16、后肩部开口19、后袖笼开口Ⅱ20的制作则是省去了内外层面料间拉链或按扣的安装工序。The production process of the rear back opening 17 is similar to that of the zipper type opening, except that the process of installing the zipper is replaced by the installation of snap buttons; while the normally open type opening has the rear waist ventilation pocket 16, the rear shoulder opening 19, and the rear armhole opening The production of Ⅱ20 eliminates the installation process of zippers or snap buttons between the inner and outer fabrics.
实施例三、Embodiment three,
裤子在臀部、腰腹部内层设置了3D网孔面料用以在面料与人体之间形成空气间隙,增强裤子的“烟囱效应”。The trousers are equipped with 3D mesh fabric on the inner layer of the buttocks, waist and abdomen to form an air gap between the fabric and the human body and enhance the "chimney effect" of the trousers.
制作此裤子的结构时需要先用单针平缝机把裁成小块的3D网孔面料缝制在防护面料的背面,然后再进行裤子裁片的拼接。此外,裤子臀部的臀部开口36、裤腿内侧的常开式开口裤腿上开口32以及膝盖部位的分割开口裤腿下开口31的制作流程可以参照上衣不同类型开口的制作流程。另外需要说明的是,裤子侧面设置的裤侧拉链开口35采用的是双头对开的长拉链(50cm),其创新点是在使用时可以根据实际需要调节拉链的位置以及开口大小。裤侧拉链开口35的内部还设有一层拉链内网孔布34,用以保持开口的形状,防止拉链拉开距离过大时导致前后裤片散开。在制作此结构时需要先用单针平缝机将拉链两缝边分别与裤前片和裤后片对应缝边缝合,然后将网眼面料置于最底层,缝制在拉链的缝边上。When making the structure of the trousers, it is necessary to use a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine to sew the 3D mesh fabric cut into small pieces on the back of the protective fabric, and then splicing the trousers pieces. In addition, the manufacturing process of the buttock opening 36 on the trousers hip, the normally open opening on the inner side of the trouser leg 32, and the split opening on the knee part and the lower opening 31 on the trouser leg can refer to the manufacturing process of different types of openings in the upper garment. In addition, it should be noted that the trouser side zipper opening 35 provided on the side of the trousers adopts a long zipper (50 cm) with two ends split apart, and its innovative point is that the position of the zipper and the size of the opening can be adjusted according to actual needs during use. The inside of the trousers side zipper opening 35 is also provided with a layer of mesh cloth 34 inside the zipper to keep the shape of the opening and prevent the front and rear trousers from being scattered when the zipper is pulled apart too far. When making this structure, it is necessary to use a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine to sew the two seams of the zipper to the corresponding seams of the trousers front and trousers back, and then place the mesh fabric on the bottom layer and sew it on the seams of the zipper.
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