CN102396815A - Ou embroidery clothes and processing technology thereof - Google Patents

Ou embroidery clothes and processing technology thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102396815A
CN102396815A CN2010102853744A CN201010285374A CN102396815A CN 102396815 A CN102396815 A CN 102396815A CN 2010102853744 A CN2010102853744 A CN 2010102853744A CN 201010285374 A CN201010285374 A CN 201010285374A CN 102396815 A CN102396815 A CN 102396815A
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China
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embroidery
wenzhou
clothes
dress ornament
processing technology
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CN2010102853744A
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Chinese (zh)
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陈明艳
刘京驷
张国民
叶茜
林媞
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Priority to CN2010102853744A priority Critical patent/CN102396815A/en
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Abstract

The invention discloses Ou embroidery clothes and a processing technology thereof. The processing technology comprises the steps of: collecting traditional and auspicious dermatoglyphic patterns with profound meanings, modern artistic and scenic pictures and Ou embroidery products, collecting corresponding clothes styles and performing classification and filing collation; performing designs on modern Ou embroidery clothes according to the characteristics of Ou embroidery and a developable space; determining the styles of various series of the Ou embroidery clothes and Ou embroidery pattern design drafts in batches; selecting and purchasing fabrics with different texture and different colors according to the requirements of different variety and style characteristics of Ou embroidery clothes; performing sample plate making according to different Ou embroidery clothes styles; drawing Ou embroidery product drafts in batches and performing embroidery; and applying embroidery products to clothes styles and making a plurality of series of garments of the Ou embroidery clothes in batches. The Ou embroidery clothes and the processing technology thereof disclosed by the invention have the beneficial effects that: the Ou embroidery is combined with modern clothes, the traditional Ou embroidery process is applied to the modern clothes to better inherit and develop the traditional Ou embroidery process, and the modern clothes achieves cultural connotation and artistic values besides the characteristics of attractiveness and practicability.

Description

Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament and processing technology thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of dress ornament and processing technology thereof, particularly a kind of Wenzhou embroidery that utilizes is applied to the Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament technology on the clothes.
Background technology
Wenzhou embroidery is an important component part of folks of china traditional art as the precious legacy of the nonmaterial culture art of the Chinese nation.Originate in Wenzhou, Zhejiang, claim eastern bowl because of Wenzhou is ancient, so claim " Wenzhou embroidery "; Wenzhou embroidery generally adopts material soft, and gloss is fitted order, the bright and clean exquisiteness of quality; The pure silk soft silk and the silk loose wire of plain noble quality, the refining of tool composition, lucuriant in design, the skill of handling needles is apt to change flexibly, arrange concordant even thin, embroider characteristics such as reason is clearly demarcated, the combination of works poetry calligraphy and painting; The skill of handling needles is melted the technique of writing, image logos in one, and deep traditional cultural connotation and art are arranged, and technical study is worth.
Traditional Wenzhou embroidery tool history of more than one thousand years, Wenzhou embroidery development now lags behind, and is confined to the art appreciation goods, also is not applied on the dress ornament, goes on commercialization, scale road.
Summary of the invention
To existing deficiency, the present invention is applied to modern dress with Wenzhou embroidery, makes the Wenzhou embroidery works turn to the dress ornament life product from the art appreciation article, and the life that makes the Wenzhou embroidery culture be close to the market, press close to people reaches the purpose of carrying forward regional culture.
To achieve these goals, the technical scheme that the present invention taked is: Wenzhou embroidery is applied to modern dress.
The processing technology of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament, its step is following:
One, collects traditional luckiness have a profound message pattern line kind, Modern Arts, honourable picture and Wenzhou embroidery works, and collect corresponding dress ornament style style, the filing arrangement of classifying;
Two,, launch modern Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament design according to Wenzhou embroidery characteristics and developable space;
Three, confirm each serial style of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament and Wenzhou embroidery design original text in batches;
Four,, choose the lining of differing texture, different color according to the different Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament kinds and the requirement of style characteristic;
Five,, launch sample making according to different Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament styles;
Six, draw the embroidery rough sketch in batches, and launch embroidery;
Seven, embroidery is applied in the clothes fashion, makes the ready-made clothes of a plurality of serial Wenzhou embroidery dress ornaments in batches.
Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament technological requirement:
One, embroider position and the big or small technological requirement of figure in the described embroidery: the embroidery figure on dress ornament will be set in the local location of planar cloth, must avoid the provincial highway of clothes, the clothes processing of cut-off rule, and for ease of the embroidery operation, embroidery figure will being kept perfectly property.
Two, draw embroidering original text in the described embroidery goes up forging process and require with copying: the mounting of Wenzhou embroidery artistic pictures sheet becomes picture frame, copies except that rough sketch and goes up the forging, and the cloth sheet is embroidered behind the computerized print picture proof after can starching drying; And Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament embroidery figure receives dress ornament to wear purposes to limit, and cloth cover will keep the flexibility of dress ornament can not starching, so embroidery figure can only rough sketch copies and goes up that to forge be main.
Three, the wire distribution Wiring technology requires in the described embroidery: do not fade floss silk or silk thread carry out using after the fixation treatment again.
Four, in the described embroidery tambour needle apart from technological requirement: needle gage is unsuitable long, is advisable with hour hand, connects pin and wants nature, colludes silk when preventing to wear, and destroys to embroider face and ring the dress ornament effect;
Five, the technological requirement that stretches tight under the embroidered square in the described embroidery: before embroidery is accomplished and is stretched tight down, must figure position reverse side is sticking to scald thin sticking lining and finalizes the design embroidering;
Six, the cut-parts of furnishings and sewing tech require: the furnishings cut-parts with make before; Embroidering hand acupuncture basting on the figure with the tulle drape; Carry out tailoring, make and press moulding according to model then, because of front, embroidery figure position should not press, rub impaired, in order to avoid the three-dimensional glossiness of figure is embroidered in influence; After waiting to complete, remove the tulle drop cloth and be ready-made article.
In addition, comprise the technology that participates in of metallized thread, metallized thread sketches the contours the housing of embroidery pattern or on pattern, intersperses; Comprise the combined process that Wenzhou embroidery and pearl are bored, gold and silver pearl, crystal pearl, diamond pearl, coral pearl, turquoise combine with Wenzhou embroidery.
Beneficial effect of the present invention: Wenzhou embroidery combines with modern dress, to the dress ornament in modern times, makes traditional process application modern dress ornament that artistic value more arranged, and makes traditional Wenzhou embroidery better inherited and develop.
The specific embodiment
The processing technology of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament, its step is following:
One, collects traditional luckiness have a profound message pattern line kind, Modern Arts, honourable picture and Wenzhou embroidery works, and collect corresponding dress ornament style style, the filing arrangement of classifying.
Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament grain pattern can be used for reference the spirit of traditional auspicious pattern, through homophonic, understanding, borrow symbolic gimmicks such as generation, metaphor, expressing prays for blessings receive auspicious, drive the concept that evil is avoided evil spirits.The element that keeps local characteristic; Like " four is refined ", " eight treasures (choice ingredients of certain special dishes) ", " circle good fortune ", " Fang Sheng ", " blessing and happy ", " the New Year ushers in a renewal and a change of fortune ", " having good luck ", " having sons early " or the like; The Wenzhou embroidery pattern that is containing lucky implied meaning; On dress ornament, express the people to the blessing of happy life with yearn for and to the wonderful dream in future, secondly, ideology and spiritual mode new in the modern life get in the elaboration dress ornament; On clothes embroidery subject matter, the esthetic sentiment that can courageously cater to the modern.Except that calligraphy, Chinese painting, Western painting, also can use for reference from childlike children and sign in fanatic street corner scribble, more horn of plenty, lively subject matter and gimmick such as from " photograph doctrine " to hot and cold abstract drawing group.Participate in new element for traditional Wenzhou embroidery, constantly weed out the old and bring forth the new.
Two,, launch modern Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament design according to Wenzhou embroidery characteristics and developable space;
Three, confirm each serial style of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament and Wenzhou embroidery design original text in batches;
Four,, choose the lining of differing texture, different color according to the different Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament kinds and the requirement of style characteristic thereof;
The furnishings lining is various informative; Different style; Have softness, gloss, endure with all one's will, dangle, characteristic such as thickness, weight, but Wenzhou embroidery elaboration dress ornament will consider characteristics such as clothing fabric and Wenzhou embroidery material and be complementary, and the Wenzhou embroidery material played enrich Clothing and Modeling; Embody high-grade exquisite aesthetic feeling, the effect of outstanding individual character.Therefore; Receive Wenzhou embroidery skill feature limits; Need the cut-parts of embroidery must select surfacing, inelastic, the high-grade fabric that is rich in gloss, spinning woven suitable embroidery for use, like real silk crepe de Chine, real silk soft silk, silk spinning, habotai, Hangzhoupro sieve, Suzhou brocade, flower satin brocade, crepe-back satin etc., such fabric quality is soft; Merrily and lightheartedly not sticking body, its soft gloss more can shine with embroidery mutually.
Five,, launch sample making according to different Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament styles;
Six, draw the embroidery rough sketch in batches, and launch embroidery;
Seven, embroidery is applied to make the ready-made clothes of a plurality of serial Wenzhou embroidery dress ornaments in the dress ornament style in batches.
In the epoch of industrialization now, the computer machine embroidery is flourish, and subject matter, gimmick are abundant, add the diversified dressing style of modern, and will embroider combines with machine embroidery, relies on all advantages of modern technologies, pours into new design source to the clothes subject matter of embroidering.Like participating in of metallized thread.Wenzhou embroidery generally adopts the silk loose wire, and the metallized thread of machine embroidery capable of using sketches the contours the housing of embroidery pattern or on pattern, intersperses, and utilizes the glossiness of metallized thread, makes embroidery pattern well arranged, and is more eye-catching lively, increases the beautiful feeling of furnishings.
Embroider position and the big or small technological requirement of figure in the described embroidery: the embroidery figure on dress ornament will be set in the local location of planar cloth, must avoid the provincial highway of clothes, the clothes processing of cut-off rule, and for ease of the embroidery operation, embroidery figure will being kept perfectly property.
Such as aspect line, controlled by machine influences, and machine embroidery is difficult to the dynamics of the every line of the every pin of control flexibly, is to guarantee to embroider the not easily broken twisting strand that also adopts of line; And hand embroidering adopts the silk loose wire, meticulous position can also with silk thread ward off get thinner, also can dichromatism or the polychrome line mix and use, visible manual Wenzhou embroidery is the skill that machine embroidery can not be substituted.
In addition, Wenzhou embroidery bores combining of embroidering with pearl.Pearl bore to be embroidered abundant raw material, orders that to sew gimmick various, according to the clothes theme, designs graceful pattern, various pearl is bored dexterously permutation and combination orders and sews on clothes, by material itself different shape and gloss color, forms and is rich in variation, relief pattern.Can traditional Wenzhou embroidery be combined with high-grade materials such as gold and silver pearl, crystal pearl, diamond pearl, coral pearl, turquoises according to Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament characteristics thus, the pearl embroidery adding has been arranged; Make the fuller and third dimension of clothes integral body; More be rich in characteristic, more be prone to show noble elegance, magnificent effect; Be highly suitable for wedding gauze kerchief, full dress and stage dress, make the other tool charm of dress ornament.
Draw embroidering original text in the described embroidery goes up forging process and require with copying: the mounting of Wenzhou embroidery artistic pictures sheet becomes picture frame, copies except that rough sketch and goes up the forging, and the cloth sheet is embroidered behind the computerized print picture proof after can starching drying; And Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament embroidery figure receives dress ornament to wear purposes to limit, cloth cover to keep dress ornament flexibility and can not starching, so embroidery figure can only rough sketch copies and goes up that to forge be main.
The wire distribution Wiring technology requires in the described embroidery: do not fade floss silk or silk thread carry out using after the fixation treatment again.
Tambour needle is apart from technological requirement in the described embroidery: needle gage is unsuitable long, is advisable with hour hand, connects pin and wants nature, colludes silk when preventing to wear, and destroys to embroider face and ring the dress ornament effect; Stretch tight under the embroidered square: before stretching tight under the completion of embroidering, must embroider the sticking boiling hot sticking lining typing that approaches of figure position reverse side; The cut-parts of furnishings with make; The furnishings cut-parts with make before; Embroidering hand acupuncture basting on the figure with the tulle drape; Carry out tailoring, make and press moulding according to model then, because of front, embroidery figure position should not press, rub impaired, in order to avoid the three-dimensional glossiness of figure is embroidered in influence; After waiting to complete, remove the tulle drop cloth and be ready-made article.
In addition, comprise the technology that participates in of metallized thread, metallized thread sketches the contours the housing of embroidery pattern or on pattern, intersperses; Comprise the combined process that Wenzhou embroidery and pearl are bored, gold and silver pearl, crystal pearl, diamond pearl, coral pearl, turquoise combine with Wenzhou embroidery.
Beneficial effect of the present invention: Wenzhou embroidery combines with modern clothing, to the dress ornament in modern times, makes traditional Wenzhou embroidery process application traditional Wenzhou embroidery better inherited and develop, and makes modern dress except that both artistic and practical, more literate intension and artistic value.

Claims (8)

1. the Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament is characterized in that, Wenzhou embroidery is applied to modern dress.
2. the processing technology of the described Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament of claim 1 is characterized in that processing step is following:
One, collects traditional luckiness have a profound message pattern line kind, Modern Arts, honourable picture and Wenzhou embroidery works, and collect corresponding dress ornament style style, the filing arrangement of classifying;
Two,, launch modern Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament design according to Wenzhou embroidery characteristics and developable space;
Three, confirm each serial style of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament and Wenzhou embroidery design original text in batches;
Four,, choose the lining of differing texture, different color according to the different Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament kinds and the requirement of style characteristic;
Five,, launch sample making according to different Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament styles;
Six, draw the embroidery rough sketch in batches, and launch embroidery;
Seven, embroidery is applied in the clothes fashion, makes the ready-made clothes of a plurality of serial Wenzhou embroidery dress ornaments in batches.
3. the processing technology of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament according to claim 2; It is characterized in that technological requirement is following: the position and the big or small technological requirement of embroidering figure in the described embroidery: the embroidery figure on dress ornament will be set in the local location of planar cloth; Must avoid the provincial highway of clothes, the clothes processing of cut-off rule; For ease of the embroidery operation, embroidery figure will being kept perfectly property.
4. the processing technology of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament according to claim 3; It is characterized in that drawing in the described embroidery and embroider original text and copy upward forging process requirement: Wenzhou embroidery art picture fashionable dress is mounted into picture frame; Except that rough sketch copy to go up was forged, the cloth sheet was embroidered behind the computerized print picture proof after can starching drying; And Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament embroidery figure receives dress ornament to wear purposes to limit, and cloth cover will keep the flexibility of dress ornament can not starching, so embroidery figure can only rough sketch copies and goes up that to forge be main.
5. the processing technology of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament according to claim 2 is characterized in that the wire distribution Wiring technology requires in the described embroidery: do not fade floss silk or silk thread carry out using after the fixation treatment again.
6. the processing technology of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament according to claim 2, it is characterized in that in the described embroidery that tambour needle is apart from technological requirement: needle gage is unsuitable long, is advisable with hour hand, connects the medicine administered by injection nature, colludes silk when wear to take precautions against natural calamities, and destroys and embroiders face sound dress ornament effect; Stretch tight under the embroidered square: before stretching tight under the completion of embroidering, must embroider the sticking boiling hot sticking lining typing that approaches of figure position reverse side; The cut-parts of furnishings with make; The furnishings cut-parts with make before; Embroidering hand acupuncture basting on the figure with the tulle drape; Carry out tailoring, make and press moulding according to model then, because of front, embroidery figure position should not press, rub impaired, in order to avoid the three-dimensional glossiness of figure is embroidered in influence; After waiting to complete, remove the tulle drop cloth and be ready-made article.
7. according to the processing technology of any described Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament of claim of claim 3-5, its characteristic also is to comprise the technology that participates in of metallized thread, and metallized thread sketches the contours the housing of embroidery pattern or on pattern, intersperses.
8. the processing technology of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament according to claim 7, its characteristic also are to comprise the combined process of Wenzhou embroidery and pearl brill, and gold and silver pearl, crystal pearl, diamond pearl, coral pearl, turquoise combine with Wenzhou embroidery.
CN2010102853744A 2010-09-19 2010-09-19 Ou embroidery clothes and processing technology thereof Pending CN102396815A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106983200A (en) * 2017-05-05 2017-07-28 浙江工贸职业技术学院 A kind of processing technology of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament
CN108835753A (en) * 2018-07-20 2018-11-20 平湖市职业中学 A kind of dress designing and method of cutting out

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN2205115Y (en) * 1994-08-22 1995-08-16 夏丽安 Hunan weaving embroidered fashion slim skirt
CN1240619A (en) * 1998-07-01 2000-01-12 李青 Chinese-style clothes with elysee work completed under control of computer
CN2485986Y (en) * 2001-07-16 2002-04-17 金文华 Petit-point embroider art garment
CN1401274A (en) * 2001-08-15 2003-03-12 合田刺绣株式会社 Embroidery article and making method thereof
CN1994170A (en) * 2007-01-15 2007-07-11 胡志林 Embroidery necktie

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN2205115Y (en) * 1994-08-22 1995-08-16 夏丽安 Hunan weaving embroidered fashion slim skirt
CN1240619A (en) * 1998-07-01 2000-01-12 李青 Chinese-style clothes with elysee work completed under control of computer
CN2485986Y (en) * 2001-07-16 2002-04-17 金文华 Petit-point embroider art garment
CN1401274A (en) * 2001-08-15 2003-03-12 合田刺绣株式会社 Embroidery article and making method thereof
CN1994170A (en) * 2007-01-15 2007-07-11 胡志林 Embroidery necktie

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
李德滋,马熙运,张宏图: "《文化服装讲座 (7) 手工编织刺绣编》", 30 August 1983, article "技法一 刺绣", pages: 28-167 *

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106983200A (en) * 2017-05-05 2017-07-28 浙江工贸职业技术学院 A kind of processing technology of Wenzhou embroidery dress ornament
CN108835753A (en) * 2018-07-20 2018-11-20 平湖市职业中学 A kind of dress designing and method of cutting out

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Application publication date: 20120404