CN102150970A - Fabrication process for fully hand-made leather slippers - Google Patents
Fabrication process for fully hand-made leather slippers Download PDFInfo
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- CN102150970A CN102150970A CN2011100744588A CN201110074458A CN102150970A CN 102150970 A CN102150970 A CN 102150970A CN 2011100744588 A CN2011100744588 A CN 2011100744588A CN 201110074458 A CN201110074458 A CN 201110074458A CN 102150970 A CN102150970 A CN 102150970A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a fabrication process for fully hand-made leather slippers. The leather slippers fabricated by the process are durable, artistic, soft, comfortable, air permeable and have good effect of relieving foot stress. The fabrication process is characterized in that the fabrication process comprises the following steps: fabrication of upper sleeves, which adopts the method of scribing first and then cutting; splitting and leveling process: the process can be completed mechanically and manually, in order to further ensure the quality of sheet stock; edging: component edges are trimmed into slope shape according to specification requirements; upper making: positioning dot lines are drawn, and the processing and the assembling of upper surface components are required to be performed according to specific standards and regulations; brush coating; edge making: brush coating is performed to sheared upper components, and the margins of the upper surface components are folded inward, cohered and flattened according to templates; edge trimming; splicing or lapping: all the components are assembled together through splicing; internal liner implantation: the shape of the internal liner is formed according to the shape of the sole of a person; sewing; and vamp decoration.
Description
One, technical field
The present invention relates to complete manual leather slippers manufacture craft.
Two, background technology
At present, the leather slippers manufacture craft exists soft, comfortable, ventilative and the foot pressure effect of releiving is poor, be not durable, problem attractive in appearance inadequately: 00620048563.9 patent relates to a kind of structure of pantofle, comprise: group's face, underedge, clique, the middle end and the big end, it is characterized in that, the end is the end in the moulding in described, covers by catch up with bread according to human body sole shape mold pressing slotting that the bottom surface forms in one deck.In the moulding in the bottom compartment production process of slippers be different from common chamber processes slippers, in the moulding in the bottom compartment the whole production process of slippers three road sewing machines are only arranged, all the other operations are to paste with harmless white natural emulsion to form entirely, the rim of the mouth of sewing machine all stashes, from in appearance, slippers sewing sign not significantly in the bottom compartment similarly is one-time formed pantofle in the moulding, has guaranteed in the moulding aesthetic property of slippers and comfortableness in the bottom compartment.95111859.5 patent is a kind of novel plastic slippers of selling on the present market that are different from fully.It is that primary raw material is made that the sole of these slippers adopts suspension type polyvinyl-chloride, be characterized in, it is that primary raw material is made that the upper of a shoe of these slippers adopts PVC paste resin, the cross section of upper of a shoe comprises two-layer dyed layer at least, and it is with the different colored spots or the district that are distributing again on one deck according to the layout requirement.These slippers have characteristics such as pattern modelling is new and original, and color is various, and is well arranged, and third dimension is strong, have satisfied the high-level consumption demand of people to beautify life, have vast market prospect.200720042612.2 patent is a kind of slippers, especially a kind ofly is convenient to the slippers that the slippers sole lumps together edge-on placement.Technical problem to be solved is to be convenient to slippers close the bottom side and stand up the slippers of putting.These slippers comprise sole and vamp, it is characterized in that: described sole has both positive and negative polarity magnet.Stand up and the sole of slippers is well lumped together when putting slippers closing the bottom side like this, be unlikely to be scattered, put more neat.201010259748.5 patent is a kind of slippers, comprises footwear body and upper of a shoe, this upper of a shoe is fixedly connected on the front portion of footwear body, and there is the through hole that connects about the front portion of described footwear body, and two free ends of this upper of a shoe are arranged in through hole, and fixedly connected with the footwear body.The footwear of this structure, the upper of a shoe bonding length in the footwear body is longer, and simultaneously, the people is when walking, and sole itself can increase the frictional force of upper of a shoe move left and right by the upper surface extruding upper of a shoe of footwear body.Upper of a shoe in the slippers is fixing more firm in the footwear body, prolongs the service life of slippers.In addition, two free ends of upper of a shoe in through hole are fitted mutually, are arranged in the width of upper of a shoe of through hole and the width of through hole and equate.This can make through hole match with upper of a shoe, and bond area is set to greatest extent, strengthens the firm adhesion between upper of a shoe and the footwear body.200910233526. patent is for relating to a kind of multifunctional slippers, comprise the slippers body, a light-emitting device that is provided with on the slippers surface, a switch that is provided with in slippers body side, light-emitting device is connected with the circuit of switch by the slippers body interior, on the heelpiece surface of slippers body the massage salient point is set.Immediately can utilize the light-emitting device illumination on the slippers in the dark, and need not be subjected to not having the influence of illumination device, the massage salient point of slippers palm can help sole to massage, and increases the comfort level of slippers.95111859.5 patent is a kind of novel plastic slippers of selling on the present market that are different from fully.It is that primary raw material is made that the sole of these slippers adopts suspension type polyvinyl-chloride, be characterized in, it is that primary raw material is made that the upper of a shoe of these slippers adopts PVC paste resin, the cross section of upper of a shoe comprises two-layer dyed layer at least, and it is with the different colored spots or the district that are distributing again on one deck according to the layout requirement.These slippers have characteristics such as pattern modelling is new and original, and color is various, and is well arranged, and third dimension is strong, have satisfied the high-level consumption demand of people to beautify life, have vast market prospect.02115130.X patent is a kind of slippers, is specially adapted to the hot blast of good upright cotton of permeability or tiling or the manufacture method of resin cotton disposable environmentally friendly recoverable slippers.Comprise the making sole, vamp and connection thereof, it is characterized in that by the upright cotton of ZL012307548 patent or the hot blast cotton or the resin cotton fibrous material of tiling, strike out through mould at the bottom of the slippers of uneven space pattern, be connected with pressing with super wave soldering at the bottom of the above-mentioned slippers by non-woven fabrics fiber material arcwall face again.Compared with prior art have, produce fast, easy to use, ventilative good characteristics.
Three, summary of the invention
Purpose of the present invention will provide a kind of durable, attractive in appearance, soft, comfortable, ventilative and reasonable complete manual leather slippers manufacture craft of the foot pressure effect of releiving exactly, it is characterized in that: back sanction method is drawn in being made as of upper of a shoe cover earlier, be familiar with the upper pattern structure, the parts of upper of a shoe cover are formed and mainly are divided into: paracone, thorax heel, outer bottom, the anti-skidding assembly of outer bottom, auxiliary material in shoe cover group face, the shoe cover group, at the bottom of the thorax; The assembly of shoe cover group face can change because of the difference of style, shape also is different, what and size of piece number, no unified pattern is at first checked a complete set of model of the kind of drawing, and it is placed on the workbench, grasp the structure situation of model,, find out the rule of cutting out a piece of cloth in a way with the minimum material to make two or more articles of clothing between each parts in conjunction with each raw-material actual conditions, reach high quality standards, improve volume recovery.
Earlier that feel cladding with " touching " is buttocks, otherwise is head; The orientation situation that the upper of a shoe condom is exerted oneself requirement is as follows: point should be got laterally in face of the group, and shoe tree can be wrapped up by nature in both sides like this, fold can not occur; If any the style of group's cover, its line is orientated generally in detail decide by the extension situation of uses leather, and leather is thick and solid, the extensibility that capping needs, so that line should be got in detail is horizontal, leather is when approaching again softness, its percentage elongation is generally all bigger, so should cut-off to; The general cut-off line of orientation of mouth door bar, straight burr cut to satisfy the needs of big tension stress; If straight burr is gone up when permanent disability occurring in detail, can get twill; Bag draw to be cut out with skin, and bag is to be used for wrapping our the interior of inner bag to follow with skin, in the orientation of material high requirement will be arranged equally, is that the cut-off line comes to satisfy bigger tension stress in detail equally generally; Paracone at the bottom of the thorax, thorax heel, all be the orientation that adopts the straight burr thread; The anti-skidding assembly of outer bottom then will choose the scrappy small powder at position directly to cutting; Draw cutting out of auxiliary material and since we all be the natural leather that adopts as lining and bed material, must all paste the lining reinforcement with auxiliary material, draw sanction so cut out to draw to cut out according to lining equally drawing of auxiliary material; Use range estimation, the method that hand is touched has been differentiated will arrange behind the place of upper leather material and has been drawn a position, needed method for alignment, carries out discharge according to above-mentioned content, is drawn on the upper leather with the module of mercury pen with model according to model.
Wall caving technology: can be undertaken by the mode of machine wall caving and manual wall caving, this is in order further to guarantee the quality of sheet stock, to use the technology on sheet limit: press specification requirement with edge-of-part sheet sloping shape; The sheet limit can be divided into sheet and exert oneself three kinds on limit, oblique cut grafting and clear limit; Various technology thickness have nothing in common with each other, and wrap with skin: we require to use logical our bag of sheet of logical chip technology with skin, require every bag to follow the thickness requirement of skin between 0.5mm-0.6mm; Sheet is exerted oneself the quality standard on limit: the parts that the woman drags are exerted oneself the edge, limit needs exquisiteness, slim and graceful, should suitably increase sheet hem width degree, and the width of exerting oneself the limit is generally between the 7mm-8mm, and the width on sheet limit is decided to be between the 12mm-13mm; The man drags exerts oneself the edge, limit, in order to show the sane and resolute and steadfast of the male sex, requires the edge should be full, mellow and full, and the width on sheet limit is decided to be 10mm-11mm so it exerts oneself that the hem width limit requires at 6mm; The quality standard on oblique cut grafting limit: so-called overlap edge is exactly the sheet limit that presses down parts, in leather slippers, we can see like this that a upper of a shoe cover paracone and mouthful door bar in group's face component of upper of a shoe cover will form a complete paracone, overlap edge will appear one on upper of a shoe cover paracone, the flesh noodles layer edge of sheet leather answered in general operation, sheet hem width degree is greater than lap width 1mm, and it is thicker that sheet limit thickness should be exerted oneself the standard outline on limit than skin, so the limit mouth on oblique cut grafting limit will have a certain amount of limit mouth to stay thick; The clear limit of sheet: our the clear limit of leather slippers utilization sheet technology mainly is to be used on flesh side and the flesh side overlap joint, the wide 4-6mm of casting die sheet on the flesh side, and the limit mouth stays thick 0.3-0.6mm.
Exert oneself helper's skill: exert oneself helper's skill: mainly comprise picture location dotted line: draw the standard dotted line, paste lining, exert oneself the limit: promptly ruffle or title are gathered around the limit, splice, are overlapped.
Draw the location dotted line: the processing and the assembling of group's face component all must be carried out according to certain criteria and regulation.Drawing the location dotted line is exactly on group's face component to be processed, draw various standard points and normal line, the machining area and the installation site of definite group face component.
Basic operation is as follows: at first, we cut the group's material that processes with sheet, must conscientiously check and check, and the group's face component after cutting through sheet lies against on the workbench, uses the system upper pattern plate of these parts to align, not deflection; To exerting oneself limit (gathering around the limit) and overlap joint (lapping) part, must be by standard-required line of system group and location.Model after the location, is pinned model and group's face with left hand on group's face component, the right hand is held the mercury pen near the template edge setting-out with point out index point.Before setting-out and index point were not finished, the model that left hand is pinned must not move and move the position, in order to avoid influence the accuracy of setting-out and index point.Because the mercury pen core and the nib of our usefulness have certain thickness, the model of our usefulness has certain thickness again.So we are along template edge setting-out and index point the time, penholder slightly outwards and the nib mark picture that should be slightly tilts in the model.Must can not leak picture, empty picture, maybe point, line drawing are out of shape according to outline line on the system upper pattern plate and the careful setting-out of index point location; To check again and classify after the anchor point line drawing is intact, be beneficial to next procedure operation: the brush coating basic operation is as follows: every we exert oneself in limit, overlap joint and the cement footwear etc. before the technological operation, and finalize the design processing when needing in the adhesive lining at thin, soft, the instep of group's musculus cutaneus back of the body group face with excessivelying, all be to need brush coating; Brush coating belongs to skilled operation, as long as evenly brush according to a definite sequence, can not leak brush, can not disorderly brush, can the glue brushing is even, reach technological requirement; Must finish the brush coating work of each parts in order; Whole leather slippers needs the parts of brush coating to be: vamp rubber, lining cloth glue, bag are followed at the bottom of bar glue, outer primer, the little thorax.
Exert oneself the limit: exert oneself the limit and be and do in the footwear component edge processing the most common a kind ofly, be group's parts brush coating that sheet is cut, and will help the surplus limit of face component inwardly folding, bonding, beat out according to model, this process with its edge fold just is called and exerts oneself the limit.Employed model is called and exerts oneself the limit model or do the upper pattern plate in operating process.
Linear pattern exerts oneself the limit and shaped form is exerted oneself the limit: the technology of leather slippers mainly adopts craft to exert oneself the limit operation, technology will go up requirement: when exerting oneself the limit, the vamp leather of finishing the parts outline line turned over allow flesh noodles upwards, push down with left hand thumb face, forefinger or middle finger pick up the limit amount of exerting oneself, by its edge-of-part outline line mouths bar edge wheel profile limit mouth is rolled, nameless do the auxiliary limit action of holding up on bead door bar outline line limit thereafter, the left index finger one edge contraction right hand is held hammer, beat on one side the limit, the right hand is held the hammer right-to-left and is followed the forefinger next door of left hand and strike the limit and move.This side is struck real cementing.Require: whole linear pattern is exerted oneself the limit uniformity, and width, thickness unanimity, to exert oneself the limit straight.
The parts that the needs of complete two leather slipperses are exerted oneself the limit are: the face Kou Men of group, mouthful door bar, some style are that the flap of enclosing is arranged, and need the utilization concave-curve to exert oneself the limit and operate and enclose lid and flap.
Deburring: deburring also is to do the indispensable a kind of method of parts, because we open material according to 1: 1 model, on parts, have the generation of some surpluses, in the process of doing group's face, after we need locate by the picture of model, the surplus that it is unnecessary is all repaiied to the greatest extent, and remaining without any a surplus guaranteed the accuracy of product.
In leather slippers, need the parts of deburring to be: to repair paracone at the bottom of the thorax, repair the thorax heel, repair, repair outer bottom, repair at the anti-skidding end with bar.
Splice or overlap: from the brush coating to the deburring, in this four procedure, be the building block of the whole shoes of operation all, we will fit together these parts by this procedure of splicing, and are convenient to next process operations, finish shoe last surface; Splice: splice according to the position of drawing position line.Owing to the difference of style, the position of splicing also is different, and the production in leather slippers mainly is following several joining: a vamp paracone and a mouthful door bar are spliced, are enclosed lid and enclose flap and splice.Such joggleword can be operated sometimes repeatedly several times, could be able to finish the joggleword of whole vamp; Next also have at the bottom of the thorax paracone and heel to splice, the preliminary body at the bottom of the thorax has just come out like this; At our end of leather slippers also is the leather material that adopts, and also to have adopted the design of unique non-slipping block, non-slipping block on outer bottom equally also be to adopt the plane to splice to finish and combining of the end greatly outward; Except will splicing non-slipping block, also to handle outer bottom, the auxiliary material of outer bottom has been brushed full glue in the brush coating of front, after the work of having finished the front, the auxiliary material of the full glue of brush can be bonding with outer bottom completely, the big end and the auxiliary material of the big end of the non-slipping block of having spliced are put the coincidence that bit line is finished according to drawing equally, the big end after the coincidence, is with hammer beaing round drawing a some bit line position gently, and the whole bottom surface of concora crush will make it complete cementation and bubble can not occur or leak glue.Situations such as slit are arranged; The vamp modification process: we are divided into the two large divisions to the vamp modification process of leather slippers, and locomotive is modified and manual the modification; After exerting oneself the splicing and overlap of limit technology, the blank of upper of a shoe cover has formed, and playing what stablize group's face effect in the above-mentioned steps is " glue ", so there is not substantial stitching, the main effect of locomotive modification is sewed up parts by locomotive exactly; Comprising in the upper of a shoe cover, sew up at the bottom of the upper of a shoe cover face, thorax; The design of some styles is gone up the line class that some uppers of a shoe cover faces can occur and is decorated, and by drawing point location some need be drawn by the ornamental track that locomotive is finished exerting oneself on the technology of limit, and the locomotive operation need only be finished according to the line position of fixing a point.The processing quality of stitching requires: stitching is clear, drawing lines is neat, needle gage (pin sign indicating number) even, no bouncing pilotage snagging; The manual modification: multinomial contents such as general craft modification mainly comprises quarter, cuts a hole, wears, compiles, seam; The utilization of these trailings mainly also is according to different style diverse ways utilizations; In the leather slippers that we produced, the man drags these utilization many at present.
Inner bag is implanted operation: in our leather slippers, because the upper of a shoe cover: vamp and sole all are the natural leathers that adopts, and natural leather just has certain softness, and such can't wear, and we have considered an inner bag in the design of whole technology; The inner bag design: the body of inner bag is to form according to human body sole shape, and inner bag is divided into four parts and constitutes.
Adopt the made pin matrix of leather, thickness is between 3mm-4mm; Can be according to different needs conversion material; The pin matrix that adopts natural leather to make, thickness is between 2mm-3mm; Interior inserted sheet: the shape of interior inserted sheet just as our heel in succession one trapezoidal, whole length only arrives 2/3 place of whole pin matrix.
With high pvc; The pvc that adopts is highly dense, high-intensity pvc material, whole body shape.We adopt distinctive groove design, and the rear outline of dragging for better outstanding (Soft Roll) skin of integrality is attractive in appearance; Whole inner bag has just become an inner bag of finishing after forming via top four parts.We will try every possible means the inner bag of finishing is put into the upper of a shoe cover now.Do not look down upon this simple action, get well and the evil idea of whole pair of shoes will be by the quality of inner bag implantation.
Earlier clamp inner bag, the paracone of the heel of upper of a shoe cover and inner bag is overlapped, from top to bottom accomplish without any letup inner bag is put into the upper of a shoe cover with the pressing plate of inner bag implanting device.The place has groove one at the inner bag heel, is to be used for putting the back linear slit of helping of our upper of a shoe covers.We use the ruler instrument, with linear slit rolling in the groove gently; Attention: must guarantee inner bag and upper of a shoe cover.
Be point-to-point over against, if crooked, whole pair of shoes also are crooked.
Sewing process: after we implanted the upper of a shoe cover with inner bag, the mouth that stays that upper of a shoe be overlapped was sewed up, and was not to adopt machine to sew up here, necessary employing manual suture, and preceding splinter and thorax egative film are involutory, sew up with " the opposite joint skill of handling needles " in our the manual suture skill of handling needles; Before stitching, we will find the mid point that stays mouth earlier, after mid point is sewed up earlier, are sewed up by the right-to-left of thorax bottom surface; Leather slippers is to here, and whole shoes are finished substantially, sews up the shoes that stay mouth, still is to be in reverse side; Will be at the bottom of oneself the working experience for many years and firm technology worker, be shoes turning over again from inside to outside; The shoes of just having finished do not have moulding, and leather shoes and sport footwear all are that to close the end be shaped article just having finished final step.And our (Soft Roll) leather slippers also will be by shoe lining that shoe tree is packed into, carry out heated baking after, carrying out the nature cooling, can finalize the design.
Vamp beautifies: because employing all is natural leather, main purpose is aesthetic property and the physical property that strengthens footwear, improves durability; Revise some slight defect problems of leather surface, improve service life; All operations of beautifying necessarily require operation accurately, mainly are divided into: the cleaning of shoe last surface, colouring, filling, polishing; According to different leather surfaces, different kinds is done the last technology of beautifying, and guarantees the aesthetics of every pair of footwear.
Four, specific embodiment
Full artisan craftsmanship leather slippers manufacture craft is characterized in that: the making of a upper of a shoe cover: draw back sanction method basic step earlier: be familiar with the upper pattern structure: the parts of upper of a shoe cover are formed and mainly are divided into: paracone, thorax heel, outer bottom, the anti-skidding assembly of outer bottom, auxiliary material in shoe cover group face, the shoe cover group, at the bottom of the thorax; The assembly of shoe cover group face can change because of the difference of style, shape also is different, what and size of piece number, no unified pattern is at first checked a complete set of model of the kind of drawing, and it is placed on the workbench, grasp the structure situation of model,, find out the rule of cutting out a piece of cloth in a way with the minimum material to make two or more articles of clothing between each parts in conjunction with each raw-material actual conditions, reach high quality standards, improve volume recovery.
Earlier that feel cladding with " touching " is buttocks, otherwise is head; The orientation situation that the upper of a shoe condom is exerted oneself requirement is as follows: point should be got laterally in face of the group, and shoe tree can be wrapped up by nature in both sides like this, fold can not occur; If any the style of group's cover, its line is orientated generally in detail to be decided by the extension situation of use leather, and leather is thick and solid, the extensibility that capping needs, thus the line thread should get laterally, during the thin softness again of leather, its percentage elongation is generally all bigger, thus should cut-off to; The general cut-off line of orientation of mouth door bar, straight burr cut to satisfy the needs of big tension stress; If straight burr is gone up when permanent disability occurring in detail, can get twill; Bag draw to be cut out with skin, and bag is to be used for wrapping our the interior of inner bag to follow with skin, in the orientation of material high requirement will be arranged equally, is that the cut-off line comes to satisfy bigger tension stress in detail equally generally; Paracone at the bottom of the thorax, thorax heel, all be the orientation that adopts the straight burr thread; The anti-skidding assembly of outer bottom then will choose the scrappy small powder at position directly to cutting; Draw cutting out of auxiliary material and since we all be the natural leather that adopts as lining and bed material, must all paste the lining reinforcement with auxiliary material, draw sanction so cut out to draw to cut out according to lining equally drawing of auxiliary material; Use range estimation, the method that hand is touched has been differentiated will arrange behind the place of upper leather material and has been drawn a position, needed method for alignment, carries out discharge according to above-mentioned content, is drawn on the upper leather with the module of mercury pen with model according to model.
Wall caving technology: can be undertaken by the mode of machine wall caving and manual wall caving, this is in order further to guarantee the quality of sheet stock, to use the technology on sheet limit: press specification requirement with edge-of-part sheet sloping shape; The sheet limit can be divided into sheet and exert oneself three kinds on limit, oblique cut grafting and clear limit; Various technology thickness have nothing in common with each other, and wrap with skin: we require to use logical our bag of sheet of logical chip technology with skin, require every bag to follow the thickness requirement of skin between 0.5mm-0.6mm; Sheet is exerted oneself the quality standard on limit: the parts that the woman drags are exerted oneself the edge, limit needs exquisiteness, slim and graceful, should suitably increase sheet hem width degree, and the width of exerting oneself the limit is generally between the 7mm-8mm, and the width on sheet limit is decided to be between the 12mm-13mm; The man drags exerts oneself the edge, limit, in order to show the sane and resolute and steadfast of the male sex, requires the edge should be full, mellow and full, and the width on sheet limit is decided to be 10mm-11mm so it exerts oneself that the hem width limit requires at 6mm; The quality standard on oblique cut grafting limit: so-called overlap edge is exactly the sheet limit that presses down parts, in leather slippers, we can see like this that a upper of a shoe cover paracone and mouthful door bar in group's face component of upper of a shoe cover will form a complete paracone, overlap edge will appear one on upper of a shoe cover paracone, the flesh noodles layer edge of sheet leather answered in general operation, sheet hem width degree is greater than lap width 1mm, and it is thicker that sheet limit thickness should be exerted oneself the standard outline on limit than skin, so the limit mouth on oblique cut grafting limit will have a certain amount of limit mouth to stay thick; The clear limit of sheet: our the clear limit of leather slippers utilization sheet technology mainly is to be used on flesh side and the flesh side overlap joint, the wide 4-6mm of casting die sheet on the flesh side, and the limit mouth stays thick 0.3-0.6mm.
Exert oneself helper's skill: exert oneself helper's skill: mainly comprise picture location dotted line: draw the standard dotted line, paste lining, exert oneself the limit: promptly ruffle or title are gathered around the limit, splice, are overlapped.
Draw the location dotted line: the processing and the assembling of group's face component all must be carried out according to certain criteria and regulation.Drawing the location dotted line is exactly on group's face component to be processed, draw various standard points and normal line, the machining area and the installation site of definite group face component.
Basic operation is as follows: at first, we cut the group's material that processes with sheet, must conscientiously check and check, and the group's face component after cutting through sheet lies against on the workbench, uses the system upper pattern plate of these parts to align, not deflection; To exerting oneself limit (gathering around the limit) and overlap joint (lapping) part, must be by standard-required line of system group and location.Model after the location, is pinned model and group's face with left hand on group's face component, the right hand is held the mercury pen near the template edge setting-out with point out index point.Before setting-out and index point were not finished, the model that left hand is pinned must not move and move the position, in order to avoid influence the accuracy of setting-out and index point.Because the mercury pen core and the nib of our usefulness have certain thickness, the model of our usefulness has certain thickness again.So we are along template edge setting-out and index point the time, penholder slightly outwards and the nib mark picture that should be slightly tilts in the model.Must can not leak picture, empty picture, maybe point, line drawing are out of shape according to outline line on the system upper pattern plate and the careful setting-out of index point location; To check again and classify after the anchor point line drawing is intact, be beneficial to next procedure operation: the brush coating basic operation is as follows: every we exert oneself in limit, overlap joint and the cement footwear etc. before the technological operation, and finalize the design processing when needing in the adhesive lining at thin, soft, the instep of group's musculus cutaneus back of the body group face with excessivelying, all be to need brush coating; Brush coating belongs to skilled operation, as long as evenly brush according to a definite sequence, can not leak brush, can not disorderly brush, can the glue brushing is even, reach technological requirement; Must finish the brush coating work of each parts in order; Whole leather slippers needs the parts of brush coating to be: vamp rubber, lining cloth glue, bag are followed at the bottom of bar glue, outer primer, the little thorax.
Exert oneself the limit: exert oneself the limit and be and do in the footwear component edge processing the most common a kind ofly, be group's parts brush coating that sheet is cut, and will help the surplus limit of face component inwardly folding, bonding, beat out according to model, this process with its edge fold just is called and exerts oneself the limit.Employed model is called and exerts oneself the limit model or do the upper pattern plate in operating process.Linear pattern exerts oneself the limit and shaped form is exerted oneself the limit: the technology of leather slippers mainly adopts craft to exert oneself the limit operation, technology will go up requirement: when exerting oneself the limit, the vamp leather of finishing the parts outline line turned over allow flesh noodles upwards, push down with left hand thumb face, forefinger or middle finger pick up the limit amount of exerting oneself, by its edge-of-part outline line mouths bar edge wheel profile limit mouth is rolled, nameless do the auxiliary limit action of holding up on bead door bar outline line limit thereafter, the left index finger one edge contraction right hand is held hammer, beat on one side the limit, the right hand is held the hammer right-to-left and is followed the forefinger next door of left hand and strike the limit and move.This side is struck real cementing.Require: whole linear pattern is exerted oneself the limit uniformity, and width, thickness unanimity, to exert oneself the limit straight.The parts that the needs of complete two leather slipperses are exerted oneself the limit are: the face Kou Men of group, mouthful door bar, some style are that the flap of enclosing is arranged, and need the utilization concave-curve to exert oneself the limit and operate and enclose lid and flap.
Deburring: deburring also is to do the indispensable a kind of method of parts, because we open material according to 1: 1 model, on parts, have the generation of some surpluses, in the process of doing group's face, after we need locate by the picture of model, the surplus that it is unnecessary is all repaiied to the greatest extent, and remaining without any a surplus guaranteed the accuracy of product.In leather slippers, need the parts of deburring to be: to repair paracone at the bottom of the thorax, repair the thorax heel, repair, repair outer bottom, repair at the anti-skidding end with bar.Splice or overlap: from the brush coating to the deburring, in this four procedure, be the building block of the whole shoes of operation all, we will fit together these parts by this procedure of splicing, and are convenient to next process operations, finish shoe last surface; Splice: splice according to the position of drawing position line.Owing to the difference of style, the position of splicing also is different, and the production in leather slippers mainly is following several joining: a vamp paracone and a mouthful door bar are spliced, are enclosed lid and enclose flap and splice.Such joggleword can be operated sometimes repeatedly several times, could be able to finish the joggleword of whole vamp; Next also have at the bottom of the thorax paracone and heel to splice, the preliminary body at the bottom of the thorax has just come out like this; At our end of leather slippers also is the leather material that adopts, and also to have adopted the design of unique non-slipping block, non-slipping block on outer bottom equally also be to adopt the plane to splice to finish and combining of the end greatly outward; Except will splicing non-slipping block, also to handle outer bottom, the auxiliary material of outer bottom has been brushed full glue in the brush coating of front, after the work of having finished the front, the auxiliary material of the full glue of brush can be bonding with outer bottom completely, the big end and the auxiliary material of the big end of the non-slipping block of having spliced are put the coincidence that bit line is finished according to drawing equally, the big end after the coincidence, is with hammer beaing round drawing a some bit line position gently, and the whole bottom surface of concora crush will make it complete cementation and bubble can not occur or leak glue.Situations such as slit are arranged.
The vamp modification process: we are divided into the two large divisions to the vamp modification process of leather slippers, and locomotive is modified and manual the modification; After exerting oneself the splicing and overlap of limit technology, the blank of upper of a shoe cover has formed, and playing what stablize group's face effect in the above-mentioned steps is " glue ", so there is not substantial stitching, the main effect of locomotive modification is sewed up parts by locomotive exactly; Comprising in the upper of a shoe cover, sew up at the bottom of the upper of a shoe cover face, thorax; The design of some styles is gone up the line class that some uppers of a shoe cover faces can occur and is decorated, and by drawing point location some need be drawn by the ornamental track that locomotive is finished exerting oneself on the technology of limit, and the locomotive operation need only be finished according to the line position of fixing a point.The processing quality of stitching requires: stitching is clear, drawing lines is neat, needle gage (pin sign indicating number) even, no bouncing pilotage snagging; The manual modification: multinomial contents such as general craft modification mainly comprises quarter, cuts a hole, wears, compiles, seam; The utilization of these trailings mainly also is according to different style diverse ways utilizations; In the leather slippers that we produced, the man drags these utilization many at present.
Exemplify a style below as detailed description: agree on the upper of a shoe cover face that our man drags to have used three kinds of above-mentioned methods, carve, wear, compile at the decoration that carries out vamp.At first, we will lead to cladding behind the sheet be placed on mechanical on, use special-purpose icking tool, its cutting edge is vertical with handle of a knife, width is logical feasible a moment as required.Wear, compile according to the position of carving after leading to then, and form certain feature pattern.Specification requirement is: the tightness that requires to wear bar in the process of wearing should be consistent all the time, and is smooth to wear the bar rear vamp, can not neglect pine and neglect tight.Volume is meant with leather strap and weaves interlacing, makes vamp present three-dimensional pattern.In vamp is decorated, also have a lot of manual methods to finish the decoration of vamp, except carving, cut a hole, wear, compile, stitching, also have edge, embedding, adorn, turn round flower, wrinkle.
The upper of a shoe sewing process: after the decoration of whole vamp is finished, we will sew up some parts of upper of a shoe cover, form complete upper of a shoe cover.Its master operation is divided into: lining sews up, turns over idea, with deburring under the bar and outer bottom joint close, with exerting oneself stitching with the upper of a shoe cover again after the top of bar and the stitching of thorax heel, beating out the stupefied place of seam of both sides joint close, makes it smooth.
Here we mainly introduce a procedure wherein: turn over idea.A lot of people understand extremely odd, so strange name how also can occur in manufacture craft, " turning over idea ": because exert oneself our meetings picture location dotted line on upper of a shoe cover face in the technology of limit at us, much all draw on group's face.And in moving the process of lining, we need put the standard finishing the guidance of technology and guarantee shoes determined of position equally.So here our master worker will all translate into other one side to all anchor points and location dotted line.The requirement master worker must be wholwe-hearted, and gimmick is accurate.Because the error of a some position may cause scrapping of whole pair of shoes.Behind several procedures, the upper of a shoe cover has just formed such shape on finish, and in group faces, leaves the sack shape of a cover openning at upper of a shoe cover paracone.The technology of whole like this upper of a shoe cover is made and has just been finished.
Inner bag is implanted operation: in our leather slippers, because the upper of a shoe cover: vamp and sole all are the natural leathers that adopts, and natural leather just has certain softness, and such can't wear, and we have considered an inner bag in the design of whole technology; The inner bag design: the body of inner bag is to form according to human body sole shape, and inner bag is divided into four parts and constitutes.Adopt the made pin matrix of leather, thickness is between 3mm-4mm; Can be according to different needs conversion material; The pin matrix that adopts natural leather to make, thickness is between 2mm-3mm; Interior inserted sheet: the shape of interior inserted sheet just as our heel in succession one trapezoidal, whole length only arrives 2/3 place of whole pin matrix; With high pvc; The pvc that adopts is highly dense, high-intensity pvc material, whole body shape.We adopt distinctive groove design, and the rear outline of dragging for better outstanding (Soft Roll) skin of integrality is attractive in appearance; Whole inner bag has just become an inner bag of finishing after forming via top four parts.We will try every possible means the inner bag of finishing is put into the upper of a shoe cover now.Do not look down upon this simple action, get well and the evil idea of whole pair of shoes will be by the quality of inner bag implantation; Earlier clamp inner bag, the paracone of the heel of upper of a shoe cover and inner bag is overlapped, from top to bottom accomplish without any letup inner bag is put into the upper of a shoe cover with the pressing plate of inner bag implanting device.The place has groove one at the inner bag heel, is to be used for putting the back linear slit of helping of our upper of a shoe covers.We use the ruler instrument, with linear slit rolling in the groove gently; Attention: must guarantee inner bag and upper of a shoe cover; Be point-to-point over against, if crooked, whole pair of shoes also are crooked.Sewing process: after we implanted the upper of a shoe cover with inner bag, the mouth that stays that upper of a shoe be overlapped was sewed up, and was not to adopt machine to sew up here, necessary employing manual suture, and preceding splinter and thorax egative film are involutory, sew up with " the opposite joint skill of handling needles " in our the manual suture skill of handling needles; Before stitching, we will find the mid point that stays mouth earlier, after mid point is sewed up earlier, are sewed up by the right-to-left of thorax bottom surface; Leather slippers is to here, and whole shoes are finished substantially, sews up the shoes that stay mouth, still is to be in reverse side; Will be at the bottom of oneself the working experience for many years and firm technology worker, be shoes turning over again from inside to outside; The shoes of just having finished do not have moulding, and leather shoes and sport footwear all are that to close the end be shaped article just having finished final step.And our (Soft Roll) leather slippers also will be by shoe lining that shoe tree is packed into, carry out heated baking after, carrying out the nature cooling, can finalize the design.
Vamp beautifies: because employing all is natural leather, main purpose is aesthetic property and the physical property that strengthens footwear, improves durability; Revise some slight defect problems of leather surface, improve service life; All operations of beautifying necessarily require operation accurately, mainly are divided into: the cleaning of shoe last surface, colouring, filling, polishing; According to different leather surfaces, different kinds is done the last technology of beautifying, and guarantees the aesthetics of every pair of footwear.
Claims (1)
1. full artisan craftsmanship leather slippers manufacture craft, it is characterized in that: back sanction method is drawn in being made as of upper of a shoe cover earlier, be familiar with the upper pattern structure, the parts of upper of a shoe cover are formed and mainly are divided into: paracone, thorax heel, outer bottom, the anti-skidding assembly of outer bottom, auxiliary material in shoe cover group face, the shoe cover group, at the bottom of the thorax; The assembly of shoe cover group face can change because of the difference of style, shape also is different, what and size of piece number, no unified pattern is at first checked a complete set of model of the kind of drawing, and it is placed on the workbench, grasp the structure situation of model,, find out the rule of cutting out a piece of cloth in a way with the minimum material to make two or more articles of clothing between each parts in conjunction with each raw-material actual conditions, reach high quality standards, improve volume recovery; Be buttocks earlier, otherwise be head with touching that feel cladding; The orientation situation that the upper of a shoe condom is exerted oneself requirement is as follows: point should be got laterally in face of the group, and shoe tree can be wrapped up by nature in both sides like this, fold can not occur; If any the style of group's cover, its line is orientated generally in detail decide by the extension situation of uses leather, and leather is thick and solid, the extensibility that capping needs, so that line should be got in detail is horizontal, leather is when approaching again softness, its percentage elongation is generally all bigger, so should cut-off to; The general cut-off line of orientation of mouth door bar, straight burr cut to satisfy the needs of big tension stress; If straight burr is gone up when permanent disability occurring in detail, can get twill; Bag draw to be cut out with skin, and bag is to be used for wrapping our the interior of inner bag to follow with skin, in the orientation of material high requirement will be arranged equally, is that the cut-off line comes to satisfy bigger tension stress in detail equally generally; Paracone at the bottom of the thorax, thorax heel, all be the orientation that adopts the straight burr thread; The anti-skidding assembly of outer bottom then will choose the scrappy small powder at position directly to cutting; Draw cutting out of auxiliary material and since we all be the natural leather that adopts as lining and bed material, must all paste the lining reinforcement with auxiliary material, draw sanction so cut out to draw to cut out according to lining equally drawing of auxiliary material; Use range estimation, the method that hand is touched has been differentiated will arrange behind the place of upper leather material and has been drawn a position, needed method for alignment, carries out discharge according to above-mentioned content, is drawn on the upper leather with the module of mercury pen with model according to model;
Wall caving technology: can be undertaken by the mode of machine wall caving and manual wall caving, this is in order further to guarantee the quality of sheet stock, to use the technology on sheet limit: press specification requirement with edge-of-part sheet sloping shape; The sheet limit can be divided into sheet and exert oneself three kinds on limit, oblique cut grafting and clear limit; Various technology thickness have nothing in common with each other, and wrap with skin: we require to use logical our bag of sheet of logical chip technology with skin, require every bag to follow the thickness requirement of skin between 0.5mm-0.6mm; Sheet is exerted oneself the quality standard on limit: the parts that the woman drags are exerted oneself the edge, limit needs exquisiteness, slim and graceful, should suitably increase sheet hem width degree, and the width of exerting oneself the limit is generally between the 7mm-8mm, and the width on sheet limit is decided to be between the 12mm-13mm; The man drags exerts oneself the edge, limit, in order to show the sane and resolute and steadfast of the male sex, requires the edge should be full, mellow and full, and the width on sheet limit is decided to be 10mm-11mm so it exerts oneself that the hem width limit requires at 6mm; The quality standard on oblique cut grafting limit: so-called overlap edge is exactly the sheet limit that presses down parts, in leather slippers, we can see like this that a upper of a shoe cover paracone and mouthful door bar in group's face component of upper of a shoe cover will form a complete paracone, overlap edge will appear one on upper of a shoe cover paracone, the flesh noodles layer edge of sheet leather answered in general operation, sheet hem width degree is greater than lap width 1mm, and it is thicker that sheet limit thickness should be exerted oneself the standard outline on limit than skin, so the limit mouth on oblique cut grafting limit will have a certain amount of limit mouth to stay thick; The clear limit of sheet: our the clear limit of leather slippers utilization sheet technology mainly is to be used on flesh side and the flesh side overlap joint, the wide 4-6mm of casting die sheet on the flesh side, and the limit mouth stays thick 0.3-0.6mm;
Exert oneself helper's skill: exert oneself helper's skill: mainly comprise picture location dotted line: draw the standard dotted line, paste lining, exert oneself the limit: promptly ruffle or title are gathered around the limit, splice, are overlapped;
Draw the location dotted line: the processing and the assembling of group's face component all must be carried out according to certain criteria and regulation; Drawing the location dotted line is exactly on group's face component to be processed, draw various standard points and normal line, the machining area and the installation site of definite group face component;
Basic operation is as follows: the group's face component after cutting through sheet, lie against on the workbench, and use the system upper pattern plate of these parts to align, not deflection; To exerting oneself limit and overlap, must be by standard-required line of system group and location; Model after the location, is pinned model and group's face with left hand on group's face component, the right hand is held the mercury pen near the template edge setting-out with point out index point; Before setting-out and index point were not finished, the model that left hand is pinned must not move and move the position, in order to avoid influence the accuracy of setting-out and index point; Because the mercury pen core and the nib of our usefulness have certain thickness, the model of our usefulness has certain thickness again; So we are along template edge setting-out and index point the time, penholder slightly outwards and the nib mark picture that should be slightly tilts in the model; Must can not leak picture, empty picture, maybe point, line drawing are out of shape according to outline line on the system upper pattern plate and the careful setting-out of index point location; To check again and classify after the anchor point line drawing is intact, be beneficial to next procedure operation: the brush coating basic operation is as follows: every we exert oneself in limit, overlap joint and the cement footwear etc. before the technological operation, and finalize the design processing when needing in the adhesive lining at thin, soft, the instep of group's musculus cutaneus back of the body group face with excessivelying, all be to need brush coating; Brush coating belongs to skilled operation, as long as evenly brush according to a definite sequence, can not leak brush, can not disorderly brush, can the glue brushing is even, reach technological requirement; Must finish the brush coating work of each parts in order; Whole leather slippers needs the parts of brush coating to be: vamp rubber, lining cloth glue, bag are followed at the bottom of bar glue, outer primer, the little thorax;
Exert oneself the limit: exert oneself the limit and be and do in the footwear component edge processing the most common a kind ofly, be group's parts brush coating that sheet is cut, and will help the surplus limit of face component inwardly folding, bonding, beat out according to model, this process with its edge fold just is called and exerts oneself the limit; Employed model is called and exerts oneself the limit model or do the upper pattern plate in operating process;
Linear pattern exerts oneself the limit and shaped form is exerted oneself the limit: the technology of leather slippers mainly adopts craft to exert oneself the limit operation, technology will go up requirement: when exerting oneself the limit, the vamp leather of finishing the parts outline line turned over allow flesh noodles upwards, push down with left hand thumb face, forefinger or middle finger pick up the limit amount of exerting oneself, by its edge-of-part outline line mouths bar edge wheel profile limit mouth is rolled, nameless do the auxiliary limit action of holding up on bead door bar outline line limit thereafter, the left index finger one edge contraction right hand is held hammer, beat on one side the limit, the right hand is held the hammer right-to-left and is followed the forefinger next door of left hand and strike the limit and move; This side is struck real cementing; Require: whole linear pattern is exerted oneself the limit uniformity, and width, thickness unanimity, to exert oneself the limit straight;
The parts that the needs of complete two leather slipperses are exerted oneself the limit are: the face Kou Men of group, mouthful door bar, some style are that the flap of enclosing is arranged, and need the utilization concave-curve to exert oneself the limit and operate and enclose lid and flap;
Deburring: deburring also is to do the indispensable a kind of method of parts, because we open material according to 1: 1 model, on parts, have the generation of some surpluses, in the process of doing group's face, after we need locate by the picture of model, the surplus that it is unnecessary is all repaiied to the greatest extent, and remaining without any a surplus guaranteed the accuracy of product;
In leather slippers, need the parts of deburring to be: to repair paracone at the bottom of the thorax, repair the thorax heel, repair, repair outer bottom, repair at the anti-skidding end with bar;
Splice or overlap: from the brush coating to the deburring, in this four procedure, be the building block of the whole shoes of operation all, we will fit together these parts by this procedure of splicing, and are convenient to next process operations, finish shoe last surface; Splice: splice according to the position of drawing position line; Owing to the difference of style, the position of splicing also is different, and the production in leather slippers mainly is following several joining: a vamp paracone and a mouthful door bar are spliced, are enclosed lid and enclose flap and splice.Such joggleword can be operated sometimes repeatedly several times, could be able to finish the joggleword of whole vamp; Next also have at the bottom of the thorax paracone and heel to splice, the preliminary body at the bottom of the thorax has just come out like this; At our end of leather slippers also is the leather material that adopts, and also to have adopted the design of unique non-slipping block, non-slipping block on outer bottom equally also be to adopt the plane to splice to finish and combining of the end greatly outward; Except will splicing non-slipping block, also to handle outer bottom, the auxiliary material of outer bottom has been brushed full glue in the brush coating of front, after the work of having finished the front, the auxiliary material of the full glue of brush can be bonding with outer bottom completely, the big end and the auxiliary material of the big end of the non-slipping block of having spliced are put the coincidence that bit line is finished according to drawing equally, the big end after the coincidence, is with hammer beaing round drawing a some bit line position gently, and the whole bottom surface of concora crush will make it complete cementation and bubble can not occur or leak glue, situations such as slit are arranged;
The vamp modification process: we are divided into the two large divisions to the vamp modification process of leather slippers, and locomotive is modified and manual the modification; After exerting oneself the splicing and overlap of limit technology, the blank of upper of a shoe cover has formed, and playing what stablize group's face effect in the above-mentioned steps is " glue ", so there is not substantial stitching, the main effect of locomotive modification is sewed up parts by locomotive exactly; Comprising in the upper of a shoe cover, sew up at the bottom of the upper of a shoe cover face, thorax; The design of some styles is gone up the line class that some uppers of a shoe cover faces can occur and is decorated, and by drawing point location some need be drawn by the ornamental track that locomotive is finished exerting oneself on the technology of limit, and the locomotive operation need only be finished according to the line position of fixing a point; The processing quality of stitching requires: stitching is clear, drawing lines is neat, needle gage is even, no bouncing pilotage snagging; The manual modification: multinomial contents such as general craft modification mainly comprises quarter, cuts a hole, wears, compiles, seam; The utilization of these trailings mainly also is according to different style diverse ways utilizations; In the leather slippers that we produced, the man drags these utilization many at present;
Inner bag is implanted operation: in our leather slippers, because the upper of a shoe cover: vamp and sole all are the natural leathers that adopts, and natural leather just has certain softness, and such can't wear, and we have considered an inner bag in the design of whole technology; The inner bag design: the body of inner bag is to form according to human body sole shape, and inner bag is divided into four parts and constitutes; Adopt the made pin matrix of leather, thickness is between 3mm-4mm; Can be according to different needs conversion material; The pin matrix that adopts natural leather to make, thickness is between 2mm-3mm; Interior inserted sheet: the shape of interior inserted sheet just as our heel in succession one trapezoidal, whole length only arrives 2/3 place of whole pin matrix;
With high pvc; What adopt is highly dense, high-intensity pvc material, whole body shape; We adopt distinctive groove design, and the rear outline of dragging for the better outstanding skin of integrality is attractive in appearance;
Whole inner bag has just become an inner bag of finishing after forming via top four parts; We will try every possible means the inner bag of finishing is put into the upper of a shoe cover now; Do not look down upon this simple action, get well and the evil idea of whole pair of shoes will be by the quality of inner bag implantation;
Earlier clamp inner bag, the paracone of the heel of upper of a shoe cover and inner bag is overlapped, from top to bottom accomplish without any letup inner bag is put into the upper of a shoe cover with the pressing plate of inner bag implanting device; The place has groove one at the inner bag heel, is to be used for putting the back linear slit of helping of our upper of a shoe covers; We use the ruler instrument, with linear slit rolling in the groove gently; Attention: must guarantee inner bag and upper of a shoe cover; Be point-to-point over against, if crooked, whole pair of shoes also are crooked;
Sewing process: after we implanted the upper of a shoe cover with inner bag, the mouth that stays that upper of a shoe be overlapped was sewed up, and was not to adopt machine to sew up here, necessary employing manual suture, and preceding splinter and thorax egative film are involutory, and the opposite joint skill of handling needles of sewing up by hand in the skill of handling needles is sewed up; Before stitching, to find the mid point that stays mouth earlier, after mid point is sewed up earlier, sew up by the right-to-left of thorax bottom surface; Leather slippers is to here, and whole shoes are finished substantially, sews up the shoes that stay mouth, still is to be in reverse side; Will be at the bottom of oneself the working experience for many years and firm technology worker, be shoes turning over again from inside to outside; The shoes of just having finished do not have moulding, and leather shoes and sport footwear all are that to close the end be shaped article just having finished final step; And our leather slippers also will be by shoe lining that shoe tree is packed into, carry out heated baking after, carrying out the nature cooling, can finalize the design;
Vamp beautifies: because employing all is natural leather, main purpose is aesthetic property and the physical property that strengthens footwear, improves durability; Revise some slight defect problems of leather surface, improve service life; All operations of beautifying necessarily require operation accurately, mainly are divided into: the cleaning of shoe last surface, colouring, filling, polishing; According to different leather surfaces, different kinds is done the last technology of beautifying, and guarantees the aesthetics of every pair of footwear.
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| CN2011100744588A CN102150970A (en) | 2011-03-25 | 2011-03-25 | Fabrication process for fully hand-made leather slippers |
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| CN2011100744588A CN102150970A (en) | 2011-03-25 | 2011-03-25 | Fabrication process for fully hand-made leather slippers |
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2011
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Application publication date: 20110817 |