CN101163524A - Improved cosmetic compound - Google Patents
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- CN101163524A CN101163524A CNA2006800138903A CN200680013890A CN101163524A CN 101163524 A CN101163524 A CN 101163524A CN A2006800138903 A CNA2006800138903 A CN A2006800138903A CN 200680013890 A CN200680013890 A CN 200680013890A CN 101163524 A CN101163524 A CN 101163524A
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Abstract
A cosmetic composition is provided which is substantially free of fatty acids and soap and yet displays the typical sensory and optical features of a vanishing cream. The composition comprises C12-C22 fatty alcohol, emulsifier, inorganic agent, polymer and water. The inorganic agent comprises smectite clay. The composition is mild and may be used to stabilise and deliver a wide variety of skin benefit agents such as sunscreens.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to can be used to benefit materials (benefit agent) is delivered to the mild cosmetic binder composition of skin.Specifically, the present invention relates to provide the mild cosmetic binder composition of the organoleptic attribute of vanishing cream.The invention still further relates to the local application cosmetic composition, it comprises the mild cosmetic base material of the organoleptic attribute that vanishing cream can be provided.
Background of invention
In order to the cosmetic composition of sending benefit materials by with various emulsification systems with various oil and the incompatible preparation of media pack.
Many consumers wish following cosmetic product, and it in use with after using all has unique tactile characteristics.Specifically, this product should be able to be given high skin friction sense and dull surface (matte finish) when being administered to skin, to overcome oily skin sensation and glossiness skin appearance.The skin friction sense increases greatly more, and user just feels that product gets over non-greasy.Usually the vanishing cream base material that comprises fatty acid and alkali metal soap is a kind of preferred form of this cosmetics acceptable medium, is especially had a preference for by consumer that lives in hot wet climates or oily skin consumer.
In particular, the typical sense organ of these high skin friction senses and dull surface cream (vanishing cream) and visual signature be for: 1) provide dry, retardance (draggy), non-greasy, non-viscous sensation to skin; 2) provide non-glossiness dull surface; 3) spread on the skin easily; 4) absorption or " disappearance " quickly is in skin.
The vanishing cream that tradition is used contains high-caliber stearic acid and alkali metal soap as emulsifying agent, and both are important for the physical stability and the organoleptic attribute of product.Soap is usually by forming the neutralization of a part of total stearic acid and caustic potash or other alkali generation original position.
But unfortunately, many benefit materials such as acidic active agent and sunscreen are this unstable chemically and physically in mainly based on the vanishing cream of fatty acid.
IN 190820, US 5 827 508 and US 5 759 524 (all belong to The Procter ﹠amp; Gamble Company) discloses light-protection cosmetic product compositions, mixed special material such as surface treated zinc oxide for the chemistry and the light stability that improve sunscreen in its prescription.Though this prescription may be substantially free of fatty acid, it's a pity that they lack the organoleptic attribute of the above-mentioned expectation of vanishing cream.
Therefore we confirm to exist the demand to the base material of cosmetics compositions, and it does not contain stearic acid or other fatty acid and soap, but has kept the organoleptic attribute of vanishing cream base material.We find to realize this target like this, promptly select inorganic substances and organic substance meticulously, prepare with suitable emulsifying agent emulsifying with polymer.
Therefore a target of the present invention is to make cosmetic composition, and it is substantially free of fatty acid and soap, but the organoleptic attribute of vanishing cream can be provided.
Another target of the present invention is to make cosmetic composition, and it is substantially free of fatty acid and soap, and is softer than vanishing cream, and the organoleptic attribute of vanishing cream can be provided simultaneously.
Another target of the present invention is to make cosmetic composition, it is substantially free of fatty acid and soap, wherein can mix the multiple beneficial material, and it can make benefit materials such as sunscreen and other acidic active agent stabilisation, the organoleptic attribute of vanishing cream can be provided simultaneously.
Also target of the present invention is to make cosmetic composition, and it can strengthen the effect of UV-A type and UV-B type sunscreen simultaneously.
Summary of the invention
According to the present invention, the not cosmetic composition of fatty acids and soap is provided substantially, it comprises:
I. the carbon chain lengths that accounts for compositions 3-10% weight is C
12-C
22Aliphatic alcohol;
Ii. account for the emulsifying agent of compositions 0.1-5% weight;
Iii. account for the inorganic substances that comprise montmorillonitic clay (smectite clay) of compositions 2-5% weight;
Iv. account for the polymer of compositions 0.1-5% weight;
V. account for the water of compositions at least 65% weight.
For soft property maximization that makes compositions and the tendency that increases its stabilisation skin beneficiating material, preferred cosmetic composition comprises total fatty acids and the soap less than 5% weight, be more preferably less than 2%, even be more preferably less than 0.5%, most desirably less than 0.1%.
Also the fusing point of preferred used emulsifying agent is 35 ℃ at least.
Water is preferred solvent, preferably mixes with the level that accounts for compositions 65-85% weight.Also can mix other solvent except water, the level of mixing accounts for compositions 0.5-10% weight.The example of suitable solvent comprises: propylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2,4-butantriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, sorbitol ester, butanediol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, DEGMBE, carbitol and their mixture.
Compositions of the present invention also can be used as the cosmetics acceptable medium, with diluent, dispersant or the carrier that serves as other material.By mixing the benefit materials that can be used for local application, compositions of the present invention can be used to the preparing cosmetics compositions, to promote the distribution of benefit materials when said composition is administered to skin.These benefit materials can comprise various skin nursing industry beauty treatment and ingredient commonly used, and these compositions are suitable in the compositions of the present invention.These materials can mix with the level that is no more than 20% (weight of compositions) by its natural (anhydrous) state, can mix separately or mix with the mixture of one or more media or emulsion (comprising oil-in-water type, water-in-oil type or W/O/W type emulsion).
Detailed Description Of The Invention
Now describe the preferred component that is fit to be included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in detail.
Aliphatic alcohol
It is C that suitable aliphatic alcohol is selected from carbon chain lengths usually
12-C
22Aliphatic alcohol.The aliphatic alcohol of preferred at least 50% weight is a straight-chain fatty alcohol.Special preferred fat alcohol is saturated fatty alcohol.Also particularly preferably be, in the weight of aliphatic alcohol, total aliphatic alcohol of at least 50% is a solid under at least 35 ℃ temperature.
Particularly preferably be one of aliphatic alcohol of being selected from stearyl alcohol, spermol or 16 octadecanol or its combination.
The total concentration of aliphatic alcohol is the scope of the 3-10% weight of cosmetic composition, more preferably 4-7%.
Emulsifying agent
The emulsifying agent that is used for compositions comprises non-soap detergent, does not contain soap.Emulsifying agent is preferably selected from anionic or nonionic surfactant.The total concentration of emulsifying agent is the scope of the 0.1-5% weight of cosmetic composition, more preferably 1-4%.The fusing point of preferred especially used emulsifying agent is at least 35 ℃.
The limiting examples of anionic surfactant is that alkyl sulfate, aralkyl sulfate, alkyl ethoxy ether sulfate, alkaryl sulfate, alkyl succinate, alkyl sulfo succinate (comprise for example C of list and dialkyl group
6-C
22Sulfosuccinate), N-alkanoyl sarcosinate, isethionate and taurate.
The limiting examples of nonionic emulsifier comprises the glyceride of fatty acid, glycol ester, propylene glycol ester and sucrose ester are as the glycerol decanoin, glycerol lanoline acid esters, glycerine myristate ester, glycerol monolaurate, Dilaurin, glyceryl monostearate, glycerol monohydroxy stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, Glyceryl stearate citrate, ethylene glycol stearate, glycol distearate, ethylene glycol dilaurate, the diethylene glycol dilaurate, propylene glycol stearate, the propylene glycol laurate, the propylene glycol distearate, the Petiolus Trachycarpi oil glyceride type, hydrogenation cocos nucifera oil glycerol mixed ester, the acid of sucrose distearyl.
Polyvinyl ester, fatty glyceride and sorbitan ester that another kind of useful nonionic emulsifier is a fatty acid, its vinyl group is in 5-150 scope.Example comprises: the PEG-8 stearate, the PEG-9 stearate, the PEG-8 distearate, the PEG-20 stearate, the PEG-30 stearate, the PEG-40 stearate, the EG-50 stearate, the PEG-100 stearate, the PEG-150 laurate, the PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, the PEG-25 triolein, PEG-15 glycerol ricinoleate, the PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, the PEG-20 iso stearic acid of glycerine ester, the PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, the PEG-20 glycerol monolaurate, the PEG-30 stearate, the PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 anhydrous sorbitol lanoline acid esters, PEG-6 anhydrous sorbitol Cera Flava and PEG-20 anhydrous sorbitol Cera Flava.
The representative of the nonionic emulsifier that another class is useful is an ethoxylized fatty alcohol, and its vinyl group is in 2-30 scope.
Other nonionic emulsifier can comprise anhydrous sorbitol monoesters such as Span60, anhydrous sorbitol tristearate, anhydrous sorbitol cetylate, anhydrous sorbitol laurate, cholesterol, lanoline, plant sterol, lecithin and hydrolecithin.
Inorganic substances
Through or be the part of compositions without the inorganic substances of organic decoration.The total amount of these materials in compositions is in the scope of the 2-5% of compositions weight.Inorganic substances comprise montmorillonitic clay.The inorganic substances of preferred at least 20% weight are montmorillonitic clays, more preferably at least 30%, even more preferably at least 40%, most desirably at least 50%.
Preferred montmorillonitic clay is selected from: aluminium silicate if you would take off soil (bentonite, hectorite and their derivant); (commercially available be the Veegum of various grades to the aluminium-magnesium silicate of purification
TM); (commercially available be the Laponite of various grades to the sodium silicate magnesium of purification
TM); The Montmorillonitum of organic decoration comprises that tetraalkyl and/or trialkyl ammonium Montmorillonitum (montmorillonite clay of organic decoration) draw oronain bentonite and Si La oronain hectorite as quaternary ammonium salt-18 bentonite, quaternary ammonium salt-18 hectorite, department; And their mixture.
Montorillonite clay is the representative of clay mineral, belongs to the dioctahedron Montmorillonitum, and this material can expand in water, but can not become plasticity.Layer bag (layer packet) in the 3-tier architecture of montorillonite clay can expand because of reversible the mixing of water (2-7 doubly measures) and other material, and described other material is alcohol, ethylene glycol, pyridine, α-Jia Jibiding, ammonium compounds, hydroxy Al silicate ion etc. for example.
Because montorillonite clay has very big ion exchange capacity, aluminum can be by Mg, Fe (II), Fe (III), Zn, Pb, Cr, Cu and other ionic replacement.The negative charge that octahedral layer produced is by the Na particularly of the cation in the interlayer position
+(na montmorillonite) and Ca
2+(calcium montmorillonite) institute balance.
The product (organobentonite) that the organic property of montorillonite clay or bentonitic parent (interlayer cations is exchanged into the quaternary ammonium alkyl ion) is produced also can be used for the present invention.
The remainder of inorganic substances can be selected from following material separately or as mixture: silicon dioxide, silicate, colloidal silica, wherein free-OH the group on the particle surface is by the aluminium-magnesium silicate of the water glass color of (wholly or in part) organic decoration, Chalk, Talcum, Kaolin, bleaching earth, sodium polyacrylate, chemical modification, aluminium hydrosilicate, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixture.
Polymer
The total concentration of polymer is the 0.1-5% weight of compositions, preferred 0.3-2%.
Suitable polymers can be selected from following thickening agent/gellant classification: acrylamide, taurate, cross-linked polyacrylate polymer, acrylic copolymer, polysaccharide, starch (comprising modified starch) and hydrophilic colloid.
Preferred polymer is selected from carboxylic acid polyalcohol, cross-linked polyacrylate polymer, polyacrylamide polymers and their mixture.Preferred polymer is selected from cross-linked polyacrylate polymer, polyacrylamide polymers and their mixture.Referring to US 4 387 107 (Kelin etc., publish June 7 nineteen eighty-three) and " Encyclopedia of Polymers andThickeners for Cosmetics ", R.Y.Lochhead and W.R.Fron (editor), Cosmetics and Toileteries, the 108th volume younger brother's 95-135 page or leaf (in May, 1993), these two documents have been enumerated multiple polymers, thickening agent and/or gellant, both by reference integral body be attached to herein.
Carboxylic acid polyalcohol:
The example that can be used for commercially available carboxylic acid polyalcohol of the present invention comprises carbomer (carbomer), and it is the crosslinked homopolymer that forms of allyl ether of acrylic acid and sucrose or tetramethylolmethane.These carbomers can be Carbopol from the commercially available acquisition of B.F.Goodrich
TM900 series.Another kind ofly can be used for commercially available carboxylic acid polyalcohol of the present invention and comprise C
10-C
30Alkyl acrylate and one of following monomer or the copolymer that many persons became: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or a kind of their short chain (are C
1-C
4) ester, wherein cross-linking agent is the allyl ether of sucrose or tetramethylolmethane.These copolymers are called as acrylate/C
10-C
30Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer can be from the commercially available acquisition of B.F.Goodrich, and trade mark is Carbopol
TM342, Pemulen
TMTR-I and Pemulen
TMTR-2.Therefore, the preferred embodiment that can be used for carboxylic acid polyalcohol of the present invention is selected from carbomer, acrylate/C
10-C
30Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and their mixture.
Polyacrylamide polymers:
Also can be used for of the present invention is polyacrylamide polymers, and non-ionic polyacrylamide polymer particularly comprises the side chain or the non-branch polymer of replacement.In these polyacrylamide polymers most preferably the CTFA name be called the non-ionic polyalcohol of polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, they can (Fairfield, NJ), trade mark be Sepigel available from Seppic Corporation
TM305.
Other can be used for the segmented copolymer that polyacrylamide polymers of the present invention comprises acrylamide and substituted acrylamide and acrylic acid and substitutional crylic acid.The commercial examples of these segmented copolymers comprises Lipo Chemicals Incorporated (Patterson, Hypan N.J.)
TMSR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H.INCI (name of the components of cosmetics world) name is called ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate// nvp copolymer also advantageously, empirical formula is [C to the object of the invention
7H
16N
2SO
4]
n[C
6H
9NO]
mChemical compound.Preferred thing class at the object of the invention is recited in the chemical abstracts (Chemical Abstracts), and registration number is 58374-69-9,13162-05-5 and 88-12-0, can be available from ClariantGmbH, and trade mark is Aristoflex
TMAVC.Copolymer/the cross linked polymer that comprises acryloyldimethyl taurine ester also is favourable, for example the Simugel of Seppic Corporation
TMEG.
Polysaccharide:
There is multiple polysaccharide to can be used for the present invention." polysaccharide " is meant (gelling) agent that contains the unitary skeleton of repetition sugar (being carbohydrate).The limiting examples of polysaccharide comprises and is selected from following polysaccharide: cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline Cellulose, cellulose sodium sulfate and their mixture.The cellulose that alkyl replaces also can be used for the present invention.In these polymer, the hydroxyl of cellulosic polymer is formed the cellulose of hydroxy alkylated by hydroxy alkylated (preferred hydroxyethylization or hydroxypropylization), and it uses C then
10-C
30The straight or branched alkyl is done further to modify by ehter bond.Usually, these polymer are C
10-C
30The ether that straight or branched alcohol is become with hydroxy alkyl cellulose.The example that can be used for alkyl of the present invention comprises and is selected from following alkyl: stearyl, iso stearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, different cetyl, cocoyl (for example spreading out from the alkyl of the alcohol of Oleum Cocois), palmityl, oil base, inferior oil base, Caulis et Folium Lini base, castor oil-base, mountain Yu base and their combination.
In the middle of the alkyl-hydroxyalkylcelluloswith ether preferably the CTFA name be called the material of cetyl hydroxyethyl-cellulose, it is the ether of spermol and hydroxyethyl-cellulose.This material by AqualonCorporation with trade mark Natrosol
TMCS Plus sells.
Other the polymer/thickening agent of the present invention/gellant that can be used for comprises the material that mainly spreads out from natural origin.The limiting examples of these materials comprises starch and starch derivatives and is selected from following material: arabic gum, agar, the sea Algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, carrageenan calcium, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, the guar gum hydroxypropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride, hyaluronic acid, hydrated SiO 2, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar gum, POLY-karaya, tangleweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, carrageenan potassium, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, Sensor Chip CM 5 sodium, carrageenan sodium, Tragacanth, xanthan gum and their mixture.
Hydrophilic colloid:
" hydrophilic colloid (hydrocolloid) " is a technology abbreviation, in the English more accurately title be " hydrophilic colloid ".Hydrophilic colloid is a macromole, and its structure is based on linearity, and its intramolecular interaction power can make the effect of firsts and seconds valence link takes place between the individual molecule, thereby forms network structure.This water-soluble polymer has been represented the chemically very different natural and synthetic polymer of a big class, and their common trait is the dissolubility in water or in the water-bearing media.Prerequisite to this is that these polymer have a large amount of hydrophilic groups, and these groups enough provide dissolubility in the water, does not take place very big crosslinkedly, and hydrophilic group can be non-ionic group, anionic group or cation group in itself.
Optional skin beneficiating material and slipping agent
Suitable other skin beneficiating material, comprise that sunscreen, age resistor, wrinkle reduce agent, skin whitener/brightener, anti-flaw agent, counter-stimulus, anti-acne agents and sebum/oil and reduce agent, wetting agent, wetting agent, skin soft agent, and slipping agent is as inorganic and organic granular of oil, isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether, silicone, modification etc., also have aromatotherapy agent and spice, all can be included in the compositions.
Isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether and oil include but not limited to stearyl alcohol; glycerol list ricinoleate ester; spermol; the isostearic acid isopropyl ester; the Palmic acid isobutyl ester; Standamul 7061; oleyl alcohol; isopropyl laurate; lauric acid hexyl ester; decyl oleate; 18-2-alcohol; different spermol; EICOSANOL; behenyl alcohol; cetin; silicone oil such as polydimethylsiloxane; n-butyl sebacate; isopropyl myristate; isopropyl palmitate; isopropyl stearate; butyl stearate; Polyethylene Glycol; 2,2'-ethylenedioxybis(ethanol).; lanoline; cocoa butter; Semen Maydis oil; Oleum Gossypii semen; olive oil; palm-kernel oil; Oleum Brassicae campestris; safflower oil; Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil; soybean oil; Oleum Helianthi; American Avocado Tree oil; sesame seed oil; Oleum Cocois; Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen; Oleum Ricini; the acetyl group lanolin alcohol; petroleum jelly; mineral oil; squalane; Squalene; cholesterol; butyl myristate; the linoleic acid isopropyl ester; Lauryl lactate; Tetradecyl lactate; decyl oleate; myristyl myristate and their mixture etc.
The limiting examples of silicone oil comprises pure and mild their mixture of polydimethylsiloxane, cyclohexyl methyl siloxanes, Silicone DC 556, dimethyl siloxane.
Isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether can be selected from following non-limiting tabulation: glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerin, polyglycereol, ethoxylation and propoxylated glycerol, polypropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 2,2'-ethylenedioxybis(ethanol)., propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol and their mixture.
Sunscreen
By inorganic sunscreen or opacifier (sunblock agent) and/or the mixture of organic sunscreen agent are locally applied to skin, can realize skin is avoided the collaborative enhancing protective effect of the illeffects of UV-A light and UV-B light.
One or more can be used for the illeffects that sunscreen of the present invention must absorb or stop ultraviolet radiation.In addition, they must nontoxic and nonirritant when being administered to skin.
The limiting examples that can be used for the suitable sunscreen of sunscreen composition comprises for example para-amino benzoic acid (PABA), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethise (avobenzone), benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-12, Methoxycinnamate, dihydroxypropyl-ethylaminobenzoate (ethyldihydroxypropyl-PABA), glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, salicylic acid height
Ester, methyl 2-aminobenzoate, octocrylene, octyl dimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid (octyldimethyl PABA), octyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, trolamine salicylate salt, 3-(4-methyl benzal) Camphora, red petrolatum, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, 3-(4-methyl benzal) borine-2-ketone (methyl benzylidene camphor), benzotriazole, phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, Tinuvin 360 (methylene bis-benzotrizolyl tetramethylbutyl phenol) and their mixture.
Useful inorganic sunscreen (or opacifier) includes but not limited to zinc oxide, ferrum oxide, silicon dioxide such as pyrolytic silicon dioxide and titanium dioxide.The total amount that preferably is incorporated into the inorganic sunscreen in the present composition is the 0.1-5% weight of compositions.
Ultra rme titanium dioxide is particularly suitable for the present invention, and it can be in any of two kinds of forms, but but i.e. water dispersed titanium dioxide and oil dispersed titanium dioxide.
But the water dispersed titanium dioxide belongs to ultra rme titanium dioxide, and its granule is not coated with, perhaps with the material coating that can give the water-wetted surface characteristic to granule.The example of this material comprises aluminium oxide and aluminium silicate.But the oil dispersed titanium dioxide belongs to ultra rme titanium dioxide, and its granule shows hydrophobic surface properties, and it can be coated with for this purpose with metallic soap such as aluminium stearate, Aluminum trilaurate or zinc stearate, perhaps is coated with the organic silicone chemical compound.
Depend on required SPF (sun protection factor) (SPF) or anti-tanned index (TPI), the quantity of one or more sunscreen in compositions can change in above-mentioned scope.SPF/TPI is high more, and the total amount of sunscreen is just big more.
Preferred sunscreen is avobenzone (avobenzone), benzophenone-3, octyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid height
Ester, zinc oxide, 2-cyano group-3,3-diphenylacrylate-2-Octyl Nitrite, avobenzone, titanium dioxide and their mixture.
Following examples illustrate and implement best mode of the present invention by the principle of the invention being carried out mode for example rather than the mode that limits.
Embodiment
I. sense organ research:
Prescription of the present invention (embodiment A) in company with identical described in the table 1 but do not contain the prescription (comparing embodiment 1,2 and 3) of polymer and/or inorganic substances, is carried out the comparison of crucial vanishing cream sample organoleptic attribute with the vanishing cream base material (comparing embodiment 4) of routine.Prescription is unstable when not comprising emulsifying agent, therefore can not test in sense organ research.
Study with the panel of expert that 15 well-trained women form, they use the described test recipe of the table 1 of known quantity, and compare with the vanishing cream of routine.Give the judge with sample encoded and with random order.The judge provide they in use with the comment of using the back to the prescription sensible quality.Each judge gives a mark to each prescription with regard to one group of quality (as shown in table 2) with the grade of 1-10.With control formula each judge is regularly proved conclusively, control formula is used for determining the grade of every kind of quality, for example for its grade of greasy feeling from 1 (water of non-greasy sample fully) to 10 (very greasy/dense thick sample petroleum jelly).
Table 1
| Form (wt%) | Comparing embodiment 1 | Comparing embodiment 2 | Comparing embodiment 3 | Embodiment A | Comparing embodiment 4 |
| Stearic acid | - | - | - | - | 17.9 |
| Stearyl alcohol | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 0.5 |
| Soap (KOH is added original position formation in the stearic acid) | - | - | - | - | 2.5 |
| Glycerol monohydroxystearate (2%)+16/sodium stearyl sulfate (0.3%) | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | 2.3 | - |
| Sepigel TM* | - | - | 0.5 | 0.5 | - |
| Veegum TM**(1%) ten titanium dioxide ***(1.2％) | - | 2.2 | - | 2.2 | - |
| Sunscreen **** | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.15 | 1.15 |
| Water | To 100 | To 100 | To 100 | To 100 | To 100 |
| The denseness of prescription | Non-cream frost ***** | The cream frost | The cream frost | The cream frost | The cream frost |
*(Fairfield, NJ), trade mark is Sepigel available from Seppic Corporation for polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7
TM305.
*Aluminium silicate, for example by R.T.Vanderbilt Company Incorporated with trade mark Veegum
TMSell.
* *The MT-100SA of TAYCA Company.
* * *0.75%Parsol MCX+0.4%Parsol 1789, the Chemspec/Roche supply.
* * * *Comparing embodiment 1 is not assessed, because it is not the cream frost.
Table 2
| Organoleptic parameters | Comparing embodiment 2 | Comparing embodiment 3 | Embodiment A | Comparing embodiment 4 |
| Characteristic in the use | ||||
| The butter sense | 5.53 | 5.79 | 5.21 | 5.37 |
| Greasy feeling | 2.95 | 4.95 | 3.37 | 3.42 |
| The viscous sense | 2.79 | 5.16 | 3.32 | 3.58 |
| Dense thick sense | 5.84 | 4.53 | 5.16 | 5.00 |
| Wet sense | 2.74 | 4.79 | 3.42 | 3.05 |
| Skin temperature (cooling feeling) | 2.89 | 3.16 | 2.95 | 2.95 |
| Be coated with easy degree | 6.74 | 7.32 | 6.84 | 6.95 |
| Infiltration rate | 7.00 | 7.21 | 6.89 | 6.89 |
| Soft feeling | 6.37 | 6.95 | 6.79 | 6.84 |
| Characteristic after the use | ||||
| Final greasy feeling | 1.84 | 3.37 | 2.00 | 2.53 |
| Final viscous sense | 1.89 | 3.11 | 2.00 | 2.37 |
| Smooth feeling (non-retardance sense) | 6.68 | 7.32 | 5.79 | 5.84 |
| Reflecting feel (non-inferior light sensation) | 1.26 | 3.32 | 1.47 | 2.00 |
Mark is high more to be meaned and strong more sure to the description organoleptic attribute that is to say that final greasy feeling meaned the cream frost of feeling to be lower than its greasy end than 3.11 minutes (feel higher its greasy end) in 1.84 minutes.These two parameters of soft and smooth sense and reflecting feel are opposition parameters of retardance sense and this desirable characteristics of dull surface sense.Therefore soft and smooth sense mark is low more shows that the retardance sense is high more, and the reflecting feel mark is low more to show that then inferior light sensation is high more.
The data of last table 2 are clear to be shown, has only to demonstrate almost completely quite with high stearic acid vanishing cream (comparing embodiment 4) according to prescription of the present invention (embodiment A), and cancellation emulsifying agent or polymer or inorganic substances then can not get identical effect.
The ii soften:
For testing the soften of base material of cosmetics compositions of the present invention (embodiment A), used multiple exposure to stick (multiple exposure patch) test method than standard vanishing cream (comparing embodiment 4).Ethnic group judge (masculinity and femininity) more than 24 used in research hereto.The 25mm Hill-Top Chambers of use standard (18mm Webril bedding and padding are housed) fixes with the non-irritating adhesive tape, exposes one time 24 hours at the upper outside face of arm, then carries out at most at same position exposing in 3 times 18 hours.Before using, the test material of 0.2ml (200mg) is applied to bedding and padding.After removing bedding and padding 6 hours, the irritation level at test position is commented grade (combination Draize stimulation levels).Also this time by the seriousness order to the test position grade.The most serious position is divided into 1 etc., and it is soft more to fill a prescription, hierarchal order high more (2,3,4 or the like).If stimulate running summary of the points scored to surpass 2 at certain position, this position no longer sticks.Adopt accumulated ratings sum (the high more prescription that shows of mark is soft more) also according to the judge's who abandons sticking number, carry out the soften analysis.Data provide in table 3.
Table 3
| The comparison of grade sum | Abandon pasting judge's number of paying | |||
| My god | Embodiment A | Comparing embodiment 4 | Embodiment A | Comparing embodiment 4 |
| 3 | 144.0 | 114.5 | 3 | 4 |
| 4 | 132.0 | 112.0 | 5 | 12 |
The clear proof of above result is softer than corresponding vanishing cream base material formulation (comparing embodiment 4) according to base material of cosmetics compositions of the present invention (embodiment A).
Iii. the improvement of sunscreen stability and effect:
Be well known that, contain sunscreen stability in the stearic prescription (the particularly stability of octyl methoxycinnamate and uncoated zinc oxide) at height and affect adversely.
For assessing compositions of the present invention, carried out research in vitro study and the body simultaneously in the effect aspect the stability of improving sunscreen and the relevant effect.
SPF measures: in manufacturing back 21 days, and the outer SPF (sun protection factor) (SPF) of measuring body.Use the coating of 37 micron metals to draw (draw-down) instrument, on quartz plate, be coated with out product film, and be allowed to condition at the dark place dry 30 minutes.With SPF 290 (Optometries USAIncorporated), read the absorbance of the thin film on the specified point on the plate from the 290nm-400nm wavelength.This position is shone continuously, with 10 readings of 90 seconds interval acquiring.To change the tolerance (being the absorbance (the 1st scanning) at absorbance (the 10th scanning)/300nm place of the %=100*300nm of initial absorbance) that is used as sunscreen stability in the prescription from the absorbance that scans last scanning at first at the 300nm place.Each prescription is made three goods, is averaged spf value.The details of prescription and the metric of sunscreen stability provide in table 4.
Table 4
| Form (wt%) | Embodiment B | Embodiment C | Comparing embodiment 3 |
| Stearic acid | - | - | 17.9 |
| Stearyl alcohol | 5 | 5 | 0.5 |
| Emulsifying agent * | 2.3 | 2.3 | (2.5 soap) |
| Polymer ** | 0.5 | 0.5 | - |
| Inorganic substances (Veegum TM(1%)+preparing spherical SiO 2 granule (1.2%) or anatase (1.2%)) | (2.2 anatase) | (2.2 preparing spherical SiO 2 granule) | - |
| Parsol MCX | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 |
| Benzophenone-3 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 |
| Micronization TiO 2 *** | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| Water | To 100 | To 100 | To 100 |
| The % of initial absorbance (tolerance of stability) | 91.5％ | 76.0％ | 16.5％ |
*Glycerol monohydroxystearate (2%)+16/sodium stearyl sulfate (0.3%).
*Ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate// vinylpyrrolidone, available from Clariant GmbH, trade mark is Aristoflex
TMAVC.
* *The MT-100Z of TAYCA Company.
The clear proof of above result is compared with the vanishing cream base material (comparing embodiment 5) of routine, and cosmetic composition of the present invention (Embodiment B and C) demonstrates higher sunscreen (mainly being the UV-B type) stability.
Tanned research: design this and study the anti-tanned effect (mainly relying on the UV-A composition) of assessing sunscreen.The double blinding design is taked in research, and promptly research worker and object of study are not all known the test products composition.Select two forearms (zone from the ancon to the wrist) to handle, keep prescription and each contrast and untreated position.Each position was exposed to noon sun 30 minutes, before using, exposed end at that time, carry out clinical/visual assessment with first day.Assessment uses tanned scale (tanning scale) to carry out by skilled grading person, and this scale has clearly qualitative description speech to various tanned performance/degree.Use to expose and carried out continuously 3 days with daylight.Usually about 5-7 after the exposure days, reach the highest because melanocyte generates, tanned visual assessment is carried out at each position reach 10 days.After visual assessment in the 10th day, calculate anti-tanned index (TPI) [the solarization black level grade at (the solarization black level grade of the solarization black level grade-into treatment sites at the position of the being untreated)/position of being untreated].The TPI value is high more, anti-tanned effect good more (be seen tanned few more).
Table 5 has shown the composition of the prescription of test in this research and the anti-tanned result who saw at the 10th day.
Table 5
| Form (wt%) | Embodiment D | Embodiment E | Comparing embodiment 3 | Comparing embodiment 7 |
| Stearic acid | - | - | 17.9 | 17.9 |
| Stearyl alcohol | 5 | 5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| Emulsifying agent * | 2.3 | 2.3 | (2.5 soap) | (2.5 soap) |
| Polymer (Aristoflex TM AVC) | 0.5 | 0.5 | - | - |
| Clay mineral (Veegum TM(1%)+preparing spherical SiO 2 granule (1.2%)) | 2.2 | 2.2 | - | - |
| Parsol MCX | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 | 0.75 |
| Parsol 1789 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.4 |
| Micronization TiO 2 *** | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.2 |
| Zinc oxide (Nanox TM 200) | - | 1 | - | 1 |
| Water | To 100 | To 100 | To 100 | To 100 |
| The TPI mark | 0.81 | 0.84 | 0.24 | 0.26 |
*Glycerol monohydroxystearate (2%)+16/sodium stearyl sulfate (0.3%).
*The MT-100Z of TAYCA Company.
The result shows that the present composition (embodiment D) that its sunscreen is the same with conventional vanishing cream (comparing embodiment 6) demonstrates significantly improved anti-tanned effect.The result also shows, for the 60 nm diameter zinc oxide sunscreen (Nanox that added non-coating
TM200) prescription (embodiment E and comparing embodiment 7) also has identical tendency.The clear proof of the result of embodiment D and embodiment E, than the vanishing cream base material, compositions of the present invention has realized improved sun-proof effect.
Claims (14)
1. cosmetic composition that is substantially free of fatty acid and soap, described compositions comprises:
-its amount accounts for the C of the 3-10% weight of compositions
12-C
22Aliphatic alcohol;
-its amount accounts for the emulsifying agent of the 0.1-5% weight of compositions;
-its amount accounts for the inorganic substances of the 2-5% weight of compositions, and described inorganic substances comprise montmorillonitic clay;
-its amount accounts for the polymer of the 0.1-5% weight of compositions; With
-its amount accounts for the water of at least 65% weight of compositions.
2. the cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of aliphatic alcohol accounts for the 4-7% weight of compositions.
3. the cosmetic composition of claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the aliphatic alcohol of at least 50% weight is a straight-chain fatty alcohol.
4. each cosmetic composition in the aforementioned claim, wherein said aliphatic alcohol comprises saturated fatty alcohol.
5. each cosmetic composition in the aforementioned claim, the fusing point of wherein said emulsifying agent is at least 35 ℃.
6. each cosmetic composition in the aforementioned claim, wherein said emulsifying agent is selected from anionic surfactant, nonionic surfactant and their mixture.
7. each cosmetic composition in the aforementioned claim, the amount of wherein said emulsifying agent accounts for the 1-4% weight of compositions.
8. each cosmetic composition in the aforementioned claim, wherein the inorganic substances of at least 20% weight are montmorillonitic clays.
9. each cosmetic composition in the aforementioned claim, wherein said montmorillonitic clay are selected from the aluminium-magnesium silicate of montorillonite clay, bentonite, hectorite, purification, the sodium silicate magnesium of purification, the Montmorillonitum of organic decoration and their mixture.
10. each cosmetic composition in the aforementioned claim, the amount of wherein said polymer is 0.3-2%.
11. each cosmetic composition is as the purposes of vanishing cream among the claim 1-10.
12. each cosmetic composition is used for the purposes of one or more skin beneficiating materials of stabilisation among the claim 1-10.
13. each cosmetic composition is used to improve the purposes of the effect of one or more sunscreen among the claim 1-10.
14. each cosmetic composition is as the purposes of medium among the claim 1-10, described medium with one or more skin beneficiating substance delivery to individual's skin.
Applications Claiming Priority (7)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| IN216MU2005 | 2005-02-28 | ||
| IN216/MUM/2005 | 2005-02-28 | ||
| EP05253529 | 2005-06-09 | ||
| EP05253529.1 | 2005-06-09 | ||
| GB0513005.9 | 2005-06-25 | ||
| GB0513005A GB0513005D0 (en) | 2005-06-25 | 2005-06-25 | Improved cosmetic composition |
| PCT/EP2006/001453 WO2006089692A1 (en) | 2005-02-28 | 2006-02-15 | Improved cosmetic composition |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN101163524A true CN101163524A (en) | 2008-04-16 |
| CN101163524B CN101163524B (en) | 2011-07-06 |
Family
ID=39298202
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN2006800138903A Expired - Fee Related CN101163524B (en) | 2005-02-28 | 2006-02-15 | Improved cosmetic compound |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN101163524B (en) |
| ZA (1) | ZA200707282B (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102076382A (en) * | 2008-06-30 | 2011-05-25 | 荷兰联合利华有限公司 | Sunscreen formula vanishing cream |
| CN111419736A (en) * | 2020-04-03 | 2020-07-17 | 陈宇航 | Skin cleaning composition with high sodium lauroyl isethionate content |
Family Cites Families (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US5270054A (en) * | 1992-09-03 | 1993-12-14 | Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Cosmetic capsules |
| US5851544A (en) * | 1997-12-18 | 1998-12-22 | Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Cosmetic skin or hair care compositions containing fluorocarbons infused with carbon dioxide |
-
2006
- 2006-02-15 ZA ZA200707282A patent/ZA200707282B/en unknown
- 2006-02-15 CN CN2006800138903A patent/CN101163524B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102076382A (en) * | 2008-06-30 | 2011-05-25 | 荷兰联合利华有限公司 | Sunscreen formula vanishing cream |
| CN102076382B (en) * | 2008-06-30 | 2015-04-01 | 荷兰联合利华有限公司 | Sunscreen formula vanishing cream |
| CN111419736A (en) * | 2020-04-03 | 2020-07-17 | 陈宇航 | Skin cleaning composition with high sodium lauroyl isethionate content |
| CN111419736B (en) * | 2020-04-03 | 2022-10-11 | 陈宇航 | Skin cleaning composition with high sodium lauroyl isethionate content |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| ZA200707282B (en) | 2008-12-31 |
| CN101163524B (en) | 2011-07-06 |
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