CN100591318C - Wetting agent containing monoester and diester composition based on butanediol - Google Patents

Wetting agent containing monoester and diester composition based on butanediol Download PDF

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Publication number
CN100591318C
CN100591318C CN200580037960A CN200580037960A CN100591318C CN 100591318 C CN100591318 C CN 100591318C CN 200580037960 A CN200580037960 A CN 200580037960A CN 200580037960 A CN200580037960 A CN 200580037960A CN 100591318 C CN100591318 C CN 100591318C
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butanediol
wetting agent
pigment
agent
diester
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CN101052370A (en
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J·-D·罗迪尔
V·胡比彻
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Gattefosse SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/044—Suspensions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a pigment wetting agent which is characterised in that it contains a mixture of monoesters and diesters of butylene glycol and fatty acids.

Description

Moistening of mixture agent based on the monoesters and the diester of butanediol
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of novel wetting agent,, but be not limited to cosmetic field owing to its particular applicability to wet pigment is specially adapted to.This character is that requirement is pursued the dispersive compositions of pigment especially.Sunscreen product and cosmetics are especially true.It also can be used for removing ornaments and formal dress product to promote to be present in the fixing and removing of the pigment on the skin.
Multiple product is proposed use because of its particular applicability to wet pigment.Benzoic acid C 12～C 15Arrcostab and isopropyl palmitate are especially known.Function is also used some triglyceride for this reason, for example, and castor oil and glycerol trioctylphosphine decanoin.
Document EP-A-792 633 describes a kind of Powdered anhydrous composition that comprises binding agent or wetting agent.In fact, binding agent is a kind of ester, is in a liquid state under the room temperature, comprises at least two hydrocarbon chains, and each comprises at least 10 carbon atoms.Said ester does not have oh group.A kind of preferred binding agent is, for example, and glycerol three isostearates.
All wetting agent known to the applicant as what listed in the past, have many shortcomings.At first, moistening gives the quantity of the desired raw material of determined number pigment high relatively all the time.It, with regard to cost, composition and sensory quality, the influence preparation.Some raw material, for example, castor oil at normal temperatures, perhaps the high viscosity of the pigment dispersion that is obtained makes these products be difficult to operation.At last, known wetting agent brings oily sense of touch for sometimes the final composition of introducing them.
In other words, cosmetics market needs a kind of product with wettability that does not have above shortcoming especially at present.
In exploration, the applicant finds that the mixture of butanediol monoesters and diester comprises, for example, butanediol cocos nucifera oil acid esters has the wettability that is higher than known wetting agent.
Butanediol cocos nucifera oil acid esters (BGC) is known product, is used in trade name EMULFREE by the applicant
Figure C20058003796000031
In the compositions that CBG sells as cosmetic composition.Or rather, said composition is corresponding to the combination of BGC and the pure and mild ethyl cellulose of isooctadecane.In fact EMULFREE
Figure C20058003796000032
CBG is used as the stabilizing agent of oil phase in the emulsion oil-in-water.The effect of butanediol cocos nucifera oil acid esters in said composition is confined to gel polymer, ethyl cellulose just, solubilising.In other words, be different from the present invention, butanediol cocos nucifera oil acid esters is not suitable for directly mixing with filler, but must be used in combination with aliphatic alcohol (isooctadecane alcohol) in the presence of polymer (ethyl cellulose).
Mixture of the present invention and also obviously is different from the butanediol ester of describing among document EP-A-860 164 in configuration aspects not only with regard to function.In fact, the document is described chemical UV filters agent and butanediol and the combination that only limits to the diester of 6～12 carbon atom fatty acids.Said composition not only contains monoesters, and it is used as the solubilizing agent of chemical filtering agent, rather than as wetting agent.
Document JP 57072907 is described a kind of based on the monoesters of 17～36 carbon atoms or the makeup removing product of diester.Here, do not consider the mixture of monoesters and diester yet.Moreover under the situation of diester, they are two acid esters, and in other words, an acid is by 2 pure esterifications, rather than as situation of the present invention, a glycol is by 2 acid estersization.As for monoesters, they are from single acid and single alcohol, rather than the monoesters of glycol.
Document EP-A-651 990 describes the application of ester in cleansing composition.According to the document, used ester also or single alcohol ester or diester.In fact, they are to obtain from alcohol that contains 1～17 carbon atom and the fatty acid that contains 3～18 carbon atoms.And they must have the free hydroxyl group group.
Document EP-A-1 230 910 describes a kind of emulsion oil-in-water that comprises pigment, and wherein oil phase only contains two (octyl group decanoins) of butanediol.
In other words, there be not of the application of the mixture of the monoesters of one piece of open butanediol and diester in the prior art known to the applicant as wetting agent.
Therefore, the present invention relates to of the application of the mixture of the monoesters of butanediol and fatty acid and diester as wetting agent.
According to first feature, this fatty acid is selected from C 6～C 22Fatty acid.Obviously, this monoesters can be by different and/or identical full and/or unsaturated fatty acid acquisitions with diester.
In a kind of particular, wetting agent of the present invention is by butanediol and natural origin wholly or in part, particularly from vegetable oil, the esterification of fatty acid obtain.
The applicant finds that good result is accounting at least 40% of fatty acid when lauric acid, obtaining when advantageously accounting for 50～60wt%.This kind distribution is present in Cortex cocois radicis or the Petiolus Trachycarpi oil.
Therefore and according to a preferred embodiment, this wetting agent is by butanediol and C from cocos nucifera oil 12～C 18The esterification of fatty acid fraction obtains.
According to another feature, monoesters accounts for 10～90% of monoesters/two ester admixtures, advantageously 40～60wt%.
Described wetting agent is owing to it helps the compound method importance that possesses skills.In fact, to giving determined number pigment, it can use with the ratio that is lower than traditional wetting agent.Can obtain low dispersion viscosity by it.Therefore, they are than those easier uses of adopting traditional wetting agent to obtain.At last, wetting agent of the present invention can use with lesser amt, thereby makes allowances to adding quality or sense of touch additive in prescription.And this wetting agent provides a kind of sense of touch of dry and comfortable, non-greasy.
As mentioned above, this product can be used for all and contains pigment beauty treatment or dermatosis compositions, because its wettability can improve the dispersion in oil phase, and the spread of optimum organization thing on skin.Obviously, the ratio of wetting agent in compositions depends on the type and the quantity of used pigment.
Particularly, the use of wetting agent of the present invention is particularly conducive to and contains pigment product such as sunscreen product, cosmetic product (vanishing cream, mascara, lip pomade etc.), contains pigment baby frost or be used to remove the product of pigment, for example, and the makeup removing cleaning product.
To can be Water-In-Oil, oil-in-water, multi-phase emulsion or with anhydrous form to the compositions that wherein adds wetting agent of the present invention.
They also can comprise beauty treatment and dermatological field additive commonly used, for example, fat material, emulsifying agent and co-emulsifier, hydrophilic or oleophylic gellant, hydrophilic or oleophylic agent, antiseptic, antioxidant, solvent, spice, filler, hydrophilic and oleophylic filtering agent, coloring agent, nertralizer, short-penetrating agent and polymer.The quantity of these various different additive is the conventional amount in the institute consideration field, for example, and 0.01～30% of composition total weight.These additives are decided on its type, can be incorporated into the fat phase or arrive aqueous phase.
As fat material, can adopt mineral oil, animal oil (lanoline), artificial oil (isopropyl myristate, octyl group dodecyl, isostearic acid isooctadecane ester, decyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate), silicone oil (annular dimethyl polysiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane) and fluorinated oil.As fatty material, can use aliphatic alcohol, fatty acid, wax and natural gum, particularly silicone gum.
As the example of available emulsifying agent and co-emulsifier, can enumerate ester, alkyl sodium sulfate ester, alkyl sodium sulfate ether-ether, alkylphosphonate, alkyl polysaccharide and the dimethicone copolyol of ester, glycerol and fatty acid of ester, aliphatic alcohol and PEG of ester, fatty acid and oxygen ethylene anhydro sorbitol of ester, anhydro sorbitol and fatty acid of ester, sucrose and the fatty acid of polyglycereol and fatty acid.
As hydrophilic gelling agent, can enumerate copolymer, polyacrylamide, polysaccharide such as xanthan gum, guar gum, natural gum such as cellulose gum and the derivant thereof of carboxy vinyl polymer (carbomer (carbomer)), acrylic copolymer such as acrylate/alkyl acrylate especially, and clay.
As oleophylic gellant, can enumerate slaine, hydrophobic silica and the ethyl cellulose of modified clay such as bentonite, fatty acid.
As activating agent, can use pigment scavenger, isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether (emollient), wetting agent, seborrhea, anti--the acne medicine, exfoliator and/or decorticating agent, anti-wrinkle agent and wrinkle removing agent, drain agent (draining agent), counter-stimulus, emollient (soothing agent), diluent such as xanthan alkali (xanthic base) (caffeine), vitamin and composition thereof especially.
As available antiseptic, can enumerate benzoic acid, its salt and ester; Sorbic acid and salt thereof; P-hydroxybenzoic acid, its salt and ester thereof; Triclosan; Imidazolidinyl urea; Phenyl phenol; Hydantoin; Two imidazolidinyl urea (diazolidinyl urea); Adermykon (chlorphenesin).
As spendable antioxidant, can enumerate chelating agen, for example, EDTA and salt thereof.
As spendable solvent, can enumerate water, ethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol and sorbitol.
As spendable filler, can enumerate Pulvis Talci, Kaolin, Muscovitum, secrecite, magnesium carbonate, aluminium silicate, magnesium silicate and organic dust such as nylon.
As spendable filtering agent, can enumerate the UVA and the UVB filtering agent that use traditionally, for example, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethise, octocrilene (octocrylene), octyl methoxycinnamate, 4-methyl benzal Camphora, ethylhexyl salicylate.
As spendable dyestuff, can enumerate oleophylic dyestuff, hydrophilic dye and beauty treatment or dermatological compositions nacre commonly used, and composition thereof.
As available nertralizer, can enumerate caustic soda, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol and potassium hydroxide.
Also can advise a kind of corresponding to only based on the preparation of the dispersion of pigment and wetting agent of the present invention.Can add the polymer-type stabilizing agent, to prevent the pigment precipitation.So dispersion will keep level and smooth and homogeneous.This dispersion also can comprise oil or ester type oleophylic phase.So, but this dispersion former state joins in the more complicated cosmetic composition.
The present invention and advantage thereof will and clearly represent with reference to the accompanying drawings by following example embodiment.
Fig. 1 a, b, c and d curve display wetting agent of the present invention or prior art wetting agent (benzoic acid C 12～C 15Arrcostab or castor oil) variation that increases along with pigment quantities of the dispersion viscosity of preparation.
Fig. 2 is using BGC (Fig. 2 A) or using benzoic acid C with optical microscope (amplification 400) picked-up 12～C 15The photo that contains the pigment emulsion of Arrcostab (Fig. 2 B) preparation.
Embodiment 1: with various different wetting agent wettability and viscosity relatively
1. the assessment of wettability
The wettability of oil or solvent is, forms level and smooth mastic with powder, do not crack the minimum quantity of required oil or solvent during its spread.
It is with the gram numerical table of the needed oil of 100g pigment wetting is shown.The oil that needs is few more, and wettability is high more.
2. with traditional wetting agent wettability result relatively
2.a. wettability
Figure C20058003796000071
*Sell by LCW *Sell by BASF
Table 1: disperse the needed wetting agent quantity of 100g pigment, g.
As shown in Table, butanediol cocos nucifera oil acid esters produces better result.In addition, although castor oil provides the result who seems satisfied in some cases, its high viscosity makes this product be difficult to use.
2.b. the viscosity of dispersion
The variation that the dispersion viscosity that Fig. 1 a, b, c and d curve display are prepared with wetting agent of the present invention or prior art wetting agent (benzoic acid C12～C15 Arrcostab or castor oil) increases along with pigment quantities.
The dispersion that obtains with BGC is than using benzoic acid C 12～C 15The richer flowability of dispersion of Arrcostab or castor oil preparation.Therefore, forming under the identical situation, the dispersion ratio in BGC is easier to use.
3. with butanediol diester wettability result relatively
Figure C20058003796000081
Table 2: disperse the needed wetting agent quantity of 100g pigment, g
As above shown in the table, wetting agent of the present invention is than product described in the prior (EP-A-1 230910), and is more effective as the filtering agent stabilizing agent.
Conclusion: product of the present invention, the mixture of monoesters and diester, more effective than diester.
4. with the result of diol ester (monoesters and diester) wettability relatively
Figure C20058003796000082
Conclusion: no matter the type of aliphatic chain and length is (given liquid form product) how, and BGC produces than propylene glycol ester (mixture of diester or list/diester) or the good result of butanediol diester.
Embodiment 2: the preparation assessment.The mensuration of sun-proof factor (SPF)
The excellent wettability that BCG shows obtains significant application in the sunscreen product that contains inorganic filter agent such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.In fact, the moistening preferably in preparation of these pigment they are disperseed preferably and preferably spread therefore on skin, anti-sunlight function is preferably arranged.
Use BGC (A) and benzoic acid C respectively 12～C 15Arrcostab (B) has been prepared oil in water emulsion.
Figure C20058003796000091
Fig. 2 is using BGC (Fig. 2 A) or using benzoic acid C with the optical microscope picked-up 12～C 15The photo that contains the pigment emulsion of Arrcostab (Fig. 2 B) preparation.
Aspect dispersing of pigments, can find to have a long way to go.In fact, in containing the preparation A of BGC (Fig. 2 A), pigment disperses finely, and is containing benzoic acid C 12～C 15Among the preparation B of Arrcostab (Fig. 2 B), pigment looks the form that is aggregation.
According to the suggestion of COLIPA, on 5 volunteers' live body, measure sun-proof factor:
Preparation A Preparation B
11.5+/-2.9 8.7+/-2.8
These results show (p＜0.05) significantly, use BGC to substitute benzoic acid C 12～C 15Arrcostab can obtain higher sun-proof factor (SPF).
In addition, on the sensation level, preparation A than the obvious easy spread of preparation B on skin.
Embodiment 3: preparation
Provide a few formulation Example below, available several purposes contain the BGC pigment dispersion preparation.
1. sun-proof
The Water-In-Oil sunscreen cream:
Figure C20058003796000101
The SPF of said preparation measurement result on live body is 21.
Figure C20058003796000102
The SPF of said preparation measurement result on live body is 43.6.
2. cosmetics
Vanishing cream
Figure C20058003796000111
Mascara
Figure C20058003796000121
3. lip pomade
4. cleaning agent
The cleaning breast
Figure C20058003796000131
5. baby products
The baby's frost that contains zinc oxide
Figure C20058003796000132

Claims (4)

1. the mixture of the monoesters of butanediol and fatty acid and diester is as the application of pigment wetting agent, wherein said mixture is to obtain by the esterification of butanediol with the C12～C18 fatty acid fraction that is derived from Oleum Cocois, and monoesters accounts for 40～60wt% of monoesters/diester mixture weight.
2. dispersion that is used for cosmetics, by butanediol and the monoesters of fatty acid and the mixture of diester of claim 1, and pigment constitutes.
3. dispersion that is used for cosmetics is made of the butanediol of claim 1 and the monoesters of fatty acid and mixture, pigment and the stabilizing agent of diester.
4. dispersion that is used for cosmetics, by the mixture of the monoesters of the butanediol of claim 1 and fatty acid and diester, pigment, at least a oleophylic mutually and, randomly, stabilizing agent constitutes.
CN200580037960A 2004-11-05 2005-09-29 Wetting agent containing monoester and diester composition based on butanediol Expired - Fee Related CN100591318C (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0452547A FR2877569B1 (en) 2004-11-05 2004-11-05 WETTING AGENT BASED ON A MIXTURE OF MONOESTERS AND BUTYLENE GLYCOL DIESTERS
FR0452547 2004-11-05
FR0550604 2005-03-08

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CN101052370A CN101052370A (en) 2007-10-10
CN100591318C true CN100591318C (en) 2010-02-24

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FR2977488A1 (en) * 2011-07-08 2013-01-11 Chanel Parfums Beaute KERATIN FIBER COATING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A BEHENIC ACID ESTER AND GLYCEROL AS A MAJOR EMULSIFYING SYSTEM

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DE19956603A1 (en) * 1999-11-25 2001-05-31 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh Use of alkyl- and/or alkenyl-oligoglycoside fatty acid esters as pigment dispersants for production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation, e.g. lipstick, eye shadow, make up or sun screen

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