CH121305A - Crepe fabric. - Google Patents
Crepe fabric.Info
- Publication number
- CH121305A CH121305A CH121305DA CH121305A CH 121305 A CH121305 A CH 121305A CH 121305D A CH121305D A CH 121305DA CH 121305 A CH121305 A CH 121305A
- Authority
- CH
- Switzerland
- Prior art keywords
- crepe
- thread
- twisted
- weft
- threads
- Prior art date
Links
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
- D02G3/30—Crêped or other highly-twisted yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/49—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/04—Silk
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Description
Crepegewebe. Bis heute wurden Crepegewebe im allge meinen hergestellt einerseits mit der aus Grege bestehenden Kette und anderseits mit einem links und einem rechts gedrehten Crepefaden als Schuss, die einzeln ins Fach eingetragen werden.
Gegenstand der Erfindung ist nun ein Crepegewebe, das dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass dessen Schuss aus mindestens zwei; und zwar einem links und einem rechts ge drehten Crepefaden und mindestens einem lose gedrehten Faden besteht, wobei sämt liche Fäden zu einem einzigen Schussfaden vereinigt sind, während die Kette eine Stärke aufweist, wie sie bei einem gewöhnlichen Crepegewebe üblich ist.
Dadurch wird einerseits eine bedeutend reduzierte Schusszahl ermöglicht, weil Zinks und Rechtszwirn, zu einem einzigen Schuss faden vereinigt, in einem einzigen, statt in zwei Schüssen eingetragen werden, mit dem entsprechender erhöhter Produktion; ander seits wird der Eintrag mit wenigen Ausnah men billiger, weil der teure Crepefaden in der Regel nur einen kleineren Bruchteil des Schusses bildet und der Abbindefaaden den grösseren Bruchteil stellt und gewöhnlich bil ligeres Material ist.
Das Gewebe selbst wird infolge der Stärkendifferenz zwischen Kette und Eintrag elastischer und mit einem neuen Charakter ausgestattet, weil sich im Farb- bade der Crepefaden zusammenzieht.
Trotz dieser stärkeren Elastizität bleibt das Ge webe besser und dauerndar in Form als zum Beispiel gewöhnlicher Crepe de chine. Un ter Crepefaden werden Zwirne verstanden, die mindestens 3-4000 Drehungen per Meter zählen, denn nur bei dieser hohen Drehungs zahl ist das Auflöse- resp. Rückzwirnbostre- ben so stark, dass der wellige, sogenannte Crepeeffekt im Stoff entsteht.
Crepefaden kann nur in Links- und Rechtsdrehung zu sammen und nicht nur in einer Drehung allein verwendet werden. Da sich im ersteren Falle die beiden Drehungen gegenseitig auf heben, wird der Stoff gerade, während er im zweiten Falle schräg würde.
Als Crepefaden können zur Verwendung kommen: Seidencrepe, Schappecrepe, Baum- wollcrepe, Wollcrepe, Kunstseidencrepe ete., während der Abbindefaden aus dem gleichen oder anderem Material als der Crepefaden 4tehen kann, und lassen sich durch die @'ic-lseitigkeit der Kombination alle mög lichen Variationen erreichen, zum Beispiel N_iturseide mit Wolle,
Baumwolle finit \'olle. Paumwolle mit Kunstseide, Kunstseide mit Wolle etc., wobei das erstgenannte Material immer als Crepefaden zu verstehen ist.
Auf der ein Beispiel des verwendeten Schusses stark vergrössert veranschaulichen den Zeichnung bezeichnen 1 und 2 zwei in entgegengesetzten Richtungen gedrehte Crepe- fäden und 3 einen die Fäden 1 und 2 abbin- clenden, das heisst umschlingenden, lose ge- drehten.Abbindefaden. Dieser kann zum Bei :spiel nur ein einfacher gesponnener Faden sein, oder aus zwei oder mehr solchen Fäden bestehen, die entweder nur gefachtet oder auch lose zusammengedreht sind.
Das abgebundene Garn wird auf dem Webstuhl wie gewöhnliches Garn als Schuss verarbeitet. Es ist lediglich darauf zu ach ten, dass die Dämmung gut und regelmässig ist.
Das Crepegewebe kann auch ein kunst seidenes Crepegewebe sein, bei welchem der sichtbare crepierende Faden ein gewöhnlicher Kunstseidenfaden im Schuss ist, indem im Schuss ein lose gedrehter Kunstseidenfaden. mit bedeutend -feineren Crepefäden andern Materials von Links- und von Rechtsdrehung zusammengezwirnt ist.
Ein jeder Weberei-, wie auch Zwirnerei- Nehmann weiss genau, da.ss die Herstellunm eines tadellosen Kunstseidencrepezwirns ein Ding der Unmöglichkeit ist und dass die ver- s;
cliiedenen Zwirnfehler von ,der Struktur der Kunstseide herrühren und in verklebten h@n im Faden bestehen, welche die Drehung nicht gleichmässig aufnehmen. 'Mit einem Sühuss, der aus zwei Naturseide-, Baumwoll- oder Schappecrepefäden und einem um das zwei-, drei- oder zierfache gröberen, lose ge drehten Kunstseidefaden besteht, wird die Farbstoffaufnahine c1#> letzteren regelm;
.il3ig und das Aussehen des Gewebe: nicht mehr streifig, wie bei dem bekannten hunt@eidcu- crepe, sondern einheitlich.
Die Kette weit eine Stärke auf, wie sie bei einem gewöhnlichen Crepegewebe üblich ist.
Crepe fabric. To this day, crepe fabrics have generally been produced on the one hand with the warp made of Grege and on the other with a left and right twisted crepe thread as weft, which are entered individually into the compartment.
The invention now relates to a crepe fabric which is characterized in that its weft consists of at least two; namely a left and a right ge twisted crepe thread and at least one loosely twisted thread, with all Liche threads are combined into a single weft thread, while the warp has a strength as is usual with an ordinary crepe fabric.
On the one hand, this enables a significantly reduced number of wefts, because zinc and right-hand thread, combined into a single weft thread, are inserted in a single instead of two wefts, with the corresponding increased production; On the other hand, with a few exceptions, the entry is cheaper because the expensive crepe thread usually only forms a small fraction of the weft and the binding thread makes up the larger fraction and is usually cheaper material.
As a result of the difference in thickness between the warp and the weave, the fabric itself becomes more elastic and has a new character because the crepe threads contract in the dye bath.
Despite this greater elasticity, the tissue remains in better shape and lasts longer than, for example, ordinary crepe de chine. Crepes are twists that count at least 3-4,000 twists per meter, because only with this high number of twists is the unraveling resp. Reverse twist braces are so strong that the wavy, so-called crepe effect is created in the fabric.
Crepe thread can only be used in a left and right twist together and not just in a single twist. Since in the first case the two twists cancel each other out, the fabric becomes straight, while in the second case it would be skewed.
The following can be used as crepe thread: silk crepe, Schappecrepe, cotton crepe, wool crepe, artificial silk crepe, etc., while the binding thread can be made of the same or different material as the crepe thread, and all possible thanks to the @'ic -silateral nature of the combination various variations, e.g. N_iturseide with wool,
Finite cotton. Cotton with artificial silk, artificial silk with wool etc., whereby the first-mentioned material is always to be understood as crepe thread.
In the drawing, greatly enlarged to illustrate an example of the weft used, 1 and 2 designate two crepe threads twisted in opposite directions and 3 a binding thread that ties the threads 1 and 2, that is, loosely twisted around them. This can be, for example, just a simple spun thread, or consist of two or more such threads that are either only plied or loosely twisted together.
The tied yarn is processed as weft on the loom like normal yarn. You just have to make sure that the insulation is good and regular.
The crepe fabric can also be an artificial silk crepe fabric, in which the visible creping thread is an ordinary artificial silk thread in the weft by a loosely twisted artificial silk thread in the weft. is twisted together with significantly finer crepe threads of other material, twisted to the left and to the right.
Every weaving, as well as twisting, Nehmann knows exactly that the production of a flawless rayon crepe thread is an impossibility and that it is wrong;
The two twisting errors come from the structure of the artificial silk and consist of glued hips in the thread, which do not absorb the twist evenly. With a silk thread, which consists of two natural silk, cotton or Schappecrepefäden and a two, three or more times coarser, loosely twisted artificial silk thread, the dye uptake c1 #> the latter becomes regular;
Silent and the appearance of the fabric: no longer streaky, as with the well-known hunt @ eidcucrepe, but uniform.
The chain has a strength that is usual for an ordinary crepe fabric.
Claims (1)
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CH121305T | 1926-09-08 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
CH121305A true CH121305A (en) | 1927-06-16 |
Family
ID=4380151
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
CH121305D CH121305A (en) | 1926-09-08 | 1926-09-08 | Crepe fabric. |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
CH (1) | CH121305A (en) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE1115391B (en) * | 1957-12-11 | 1961-10-19 | Olof Erik August Aspegren | Method and device for the pyrolysis of solid substances that leave behind combustible residues during pyrolysis |
-
1926
- 1926-09-08 CH CH121305D patent/CH121305A/en unknown
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE1115391B (en) * | 1957-12-11 | 1961-10-19 | Olof Erik August Aspegren | Method and device for the pyrolysis of solid substances that leave behind combustible residues during pyrolysis |
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