CA1323816C - Permanent waving process and compositions - Google Patents
Permanent waving process and compositionsInfo
- Publication number
- CA1323816C CA1323816C CA000591386A CA591386A CA1323816C CA 1323816 C CA1323816 C CA 1323816C CA 000591386 A CA000591386 A CA 000591386A CA 591386 A CA591386 A CA 591386A CA 1323816 C CA1323816 C CA 1323816C
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- Prior art keywords
- hair
- composition
- rearranging
- weight
- wrapping
- Prior art date
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
ABSTRACT
An improved permanent waving process is disclosed. The improved waving process produces hair styles characterized as bouncier, more full bodied with an open/looser pattern of curls. Furthermore, the waving process of the invention provides for improved humectant properties that results in significantly less maintenance than is typically required when conventional waving processes are used. This waving process is a step-by-step procedure involving the addition of a rearranger, a wrapping lotion, and a neutralizer, in combination with intermittent rinsing. The improved quality and settability of the hair is believed to be attributable to a synergistic effect of improved rearranging composition and an improved wrapping lotion. The rearranging composition comprises a homogenous mixture of a salt of thioglycolic acid and a homopolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC). A preferred rearranging composition includes a weight ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to monoethanolamine thioglycolate of from about 4:6 to about 7:3 and between about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight of a cationic homopolymer of MAPTAC. The rearranging composition should also be pH adjusted to between about 3.0 and about 10.5. The improved wrapping lotion composition that comprises a homogenous mixture of a guar component and a salt of thioglycolic acid. A
preferred wrapping lotion composition includes between about 0.2 and about 2.5%
by weight of a nonionic hydroxypropylated guar and between about 0.3 and about 7.0% ammonium thioglycolate. The wrapping lotion composition should also be pH
adjusted to between about 7.0 and about 10.5 and have a viscosity in the range from about 500 cps to about 12,000 cps.
An improved permanent waving process is disclosed. The improved waving process produces hair styles characterized as bouncier, more full bodied with an open/looser pattern of curls. Furthermore, the waving process of the invention provides for improved humectant properties that results in significantly less maintenance than is typically required when conventional waving processes are used. This waving process is a step-by-step procedure involving the addition of a rearranger, a wrapping lotion, and a neutralizer, in combination with intermittent rinsing. The improved quality and settability of the hair is believed to be attributable to a synergistic effect of improved rearranging composition and an improved wrapping lotion. The rearranging composition comprises a homogenous mixture of a salt of thioglycolic acid and a homopolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC). A preferred rearranging composition includes a weight ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to monoethanolamine thioglycolate of from about 4:6 to about 7:3 and between about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight of a cationic homopolymer of MAPTAC. The rearranging composition should also be pH adjusted to between about 3.0 and about 10.5. The improved wrapping lotion composition that comprises a homogenous mixture of a guar component and a salt of thioglycolic acid. A
preferred wrapping lotion composition includes between about 0.2 and about 2.5%
by weight of a nonionic hydroxypropylated guar and between about 0.3 and about 7.0% ammonium thioglycolate. The wrapping lotion composition should also be pH
adjusted to between about 7.0 and about 10.5 and have a viscosity in the range from about 500 cps to about 12,000 cps.
Description
1323816 8~
A. Field of Invention This invention relates broadly to an improved permancnt hair waving or curling process and the composition used therein.
5 B. Prior Art Among the eomponents of hair is a proteinaeeous material called ~keratin~.
The hair's keratin is made up of lon8 fibrous polypeptide chains which are bonded together with horizontal cross bonds of two forms: hydrogen bonds and cystine bonds, also sometimes referred to as disul~ide bonds.
10Cystine bond~ play sn essential role in determining the de8ree of curl in hair. Some researehers in the field believe that straight or slightly wavy hair has relatively fewer eystine bonds and relies heavily upon hydrogen bonding to produee cùrl or waves in the hair and that very eurly hair has a relatively larger amount of eystine bonds. Other researchers in the field believe that straight hair IS and curly hair may have the same number of cystine bonds, but that the cystine bonds present in strai8ht hair tend to occur in a relatively straight alignment, whereas the cystine bonds present in curly hair tend to occur out of alignment.
Regardless of whieh theory is aeeepted, while the hydrogen bonds can be broken merely by wetting the ha;r, such that stra;ght or slightly wavy hair will lose 20 virtuslly all body when wet, very curly hair mainta;ns its body even when wet beeause the eystine bonds are relat;vely unaffected by water. Thus, very curly hair cannot be easily reset into new or d;fferent hair styles different from its natural state merely by wett;ng and shap;ng the hair.
Permanent hair waviDg is usually carried out by subjecting the hair to a 25 strong reducing agent, sueh as hydro~ide or, more commonly, materials containing a free "-- SH" group or thiol. These "thiol" materials are also called mercaptans.
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In this treatment, the hair is saturated with tho thiol agent, which then aets to break the disulfide bonds.
When a suffieient number of hair disulfide bonds have been broken, the hair is rinsed, removing the unreacted thiol wavin~ agont and disulfide reaction 5 product. The hair is then reali~ned, ~-L, usually by winding on rollers, in order to physieally align previously unpaired hair protein thiol ~roups, L~,, one-half Or the eystine groups, The hair and rollers are then saturated with an oxidizing agent, or neutralizer, sueh as hydrogen peroxide or a bromate salt, to reform disulfide bonds between the newly paired hair protein thiols and to give the hair 10 a eonfiguration or wave, This general proeess may be used to either add eurl or straighten the hair.
Salts of thioglycolie aeid, such as ammonium thioglycolate, and thioglycolie acid esters, such as glycerol mono thioglycolate, are typically utilized as the thiol waving a8ent. Other thiol-eontaining reagents sueh as thiolaetie aeid, beta-15 mereaptopropionie aeid, beta-mereaptobutyrie aeid, mereaptosuccinic acid and alike have been suggested in the art to be effeetive.
Prior art waving processes are plagued with the problem of either uDderwaving or overwaving (under or over processing) that occurs during waving on different parts of a single hair fiber or difîerent areas of the hair mass due 20 to the physieal or ehernieal condition of the hair itself. For e~cample, hair which has been waved, or bleached, or both is more porous than hair which has not undergone these ehemical treatments, ~L these portions of the hair fiber near the hair root whieh has grown out since the last bleaehing or waving. Similarly, even hair having no previous history of bleaching or waving is more porous near 2S the tip end than near the root end simply because hair near the tip has been brushed more, or has been subjected to more weathering.
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As a consequence of these porosity difforences, the hair tends to take up more waving agent in some areas and Icss waving agent in others. Over waving or processing tends to occur in the more porou5 portions of the hair while underwaving or processing tends to occur in less porous areas. Th~se trends are 5 exactly the inverse of what is desired s;nce the hair which usually needs the waving treatment the most gets the least waving, and visa versa.
Many products today are directed to the special problems and needs of the 81àck ethnic market. People in the Black ethnic market have, for example, hair characterized by a relatively lar8e number of cystine bonds and relatively high 10 dryness. Conventional permanent wavin~ products have particular limitations applied to this market. Typically, the products result in a hair style that is either very curly and quite greasy or relatively straight and stiff and very dry.
Theso prior products are characterized by the need for frequent, heavy maintenance, ~.L. the consumer's application of activators and moisturizers on a 15 daily basis or more than daily basis. None of the prior art compounds are able to produce a Black ethnic hairstyle characterized by thick, f ull-bodied hair f ibers which form loose bouncy curls having good moisture retention.
Another problem that occurs during the hair disulfide bond breaking process is skin irritation caused by the thiol-containing agents. Irritation occurs usually 20 because beauticians frequently use their bare fingers for the wrapping process.
U.S. Patent No. 4,391,286 (Hsiung et al.) and relatod U.S. Patent No.
4,572,220 (Hsiung et al.) both disclose hair conditioning formulations that claim to overcome ~ome of the problems just described. The '286 patent teaches a composition of water having dissolved therein a quaternary nitrogen containing 25 polymet and a water-soluble, disulfide-containing polycarbo~cylic acid or salt. The '220 patent teaches the same composition as the '286 patent with the addition of ,.".............. .. ..
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a thiol-eontaining waving Bgent~ The preferret disulride-eontaining polycarbo~ylie aeids are formed by the oxidation of two moleeules Or mercapto-monocarbo~ylic aeid. E~amples of those eompounds inelude dithiodi81ycolic acid, three-dithiodipropionie aeid~ eystine, dithiodilaetie aeid, dithiodisuee;nie aeid and the S like. The preferred quaternary nitrOgeD eontaining polymer is a cationie guar where a ehloride anion i9 usually associsted with the polymer. The cationie guar is distinguished from other forms or derivatives of guar 8um, sueh as nonionie guar whieh does not eontain quaternary nitrogen compounds. Poth formulations disclosed in these two patents are specifically designed and reeommended for use 10 on the hair after shampooing and prior to a waving proeess (i.e., pre-wrap solutions).
Another hair eonditioning formulation is disclosed in U.S. Patent No.
4,S88,760 (Jachowiez et al.). This formulation for deereasing hair hygroseopieity and improving settability comprises an aqueous solution of he~timinium salt and 15 resorcinol. To faeilitate applieation of this eonditioning formulation, it is diselosed that a eosmetieally aeeeptable thickener, sueh as guar gum, may be incorporated into the formulation.
All of the known waving processes and solutions assoeiated therewith are limited in their fle~ibility to produce a looser, bouncier, curl while maintaining 20 the moisture of the eurls. The present invention provides an improved in hair waving proeess, eliminating many of the problems associated with prior art proeesses and solutions.
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i323816 ~klkl~ OF TH~l~vENTlQ~
Thus, an objeet of tho present invention is to provide an improved hair waving proeess and further to provide an improved wrapping lotion composition for use in a hair waving process~
It is an object of this invention to provide a pormanent waving process and wrapping lotion that produees a soft~r, bouneier curl with an overall open/looser pattern and that requires less maintenance to maintain the integrity of the curl.
A further object of the invention is to provide for improvements in straightness and versatility without dry frizzing of the hair.
A further objoct is to provide for a reduetion in overall proeessing time, less irritation, less odor, and a reduction in the dan8er of overproeessing.
A still further objeet is to provide a waving proeess that imports more body, sheen and manageability to the hair with improved eurl retention.
Aeeordingly, in a broad embodiment, the present invention is a process of waving hair by applying to the hair a rearranging eomposition with ehemieal properties suffieient to ehange the eystine bonds in the hair keratin . to lanthionine bonds. The rearran8in8 composition comprises a homogenous mixture of a salt of thioglyeolie aeid and a homopolymer of methylaerylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium ehloride. After the rearranger has been Ieft`on the hair for a time to accomplish conversion of the bonds, the hairis rinsed to flush away a substantial portion of the rearrangin~ composition.
A wrapping lotion composition is then applied to the hair. The wrapping lotion comprises a homogeneous mi~ture of a salt of thio81ycolic acid and a guarcomponent. The hair, with wrapping lotion applied is wrapped around a rod or roller to produce a desired curl pattern. The hair with wrappin~ lotion applied is Ieft on the rods for a predetermined Iength of time, preferably about 5 to about . , , .::
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IS minutes, in order to set or lock in the desired curl pattern. The wrapped hair is rinsed to flush away only excess wrapping lotion compo~ition.
After rinsing, a neutralizer composition is applied to thc hsir, still on the rods, to lock in the curl psttern. The neutralizcr is left on thc hair for a 5 sufficient period Or time to reostablish the cyst;ne bonds, after which the neutralizer is flushed away by rinsing the hair.
The improved rearran8er comprises a salt of thioglycolatic acid and bctwccn about 1.0 and about 3.0% by weight of a cationic homopolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride. In prcferred form the rearran8er also includes botween about 6.0 ant about 10.0% by weight of ammonium thioglycolate, between about 3.0 and about 7.0h by weight of monoethanolamine thioglycolate. Also, in preferred form, the rearranger has a pH
of between about 8.0 and about IO.S.
The improved wrapping lotion comprises between about 0.8 and about 2.59~
IS by weight of a guar component, preferably nonionic guar gum and between about 0.3 and about 7.0% by weight of a salt of thioglycolic acid, preferably ammonium thioglycolate. In preferred form the wrapping lotion has a pH of between about 7.0 and about IO.S and a viscosity of between about 1,800 to 2,200 cps.
These as well as other objects and embodiments will become apparent upon 20 review of the more detailed description of the ir vention hereinaftcr set forth.
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~323816 DETAI~I) J~pTION OF THE INVENTION
The waving process of the instant invention is comprised of several steps, some of whieh involve the application of specific hair treatment formulations. As a first step, a rearranging eomposition is applied to the hair to perform a 5 straighten;ng function. The rearranging composition conta;ns an aqueous solution of chemical agents capable of reducing the disulfide linkages in hair keratin.
Suitable chemical a~ents inelude water soluble mereaptans, e.8. salts of thioglycolie aeid, sueh as, sodium, monoethanolamine, or ammonium thioglycolate, and magnesium thio81yeolate. Other sources of mereaptans include thio~lycerol, 10 sodium or potassium borohydride, and sodium or ammonium ~ulfite. The amount of these chemieal agents may vary depending on, among other things, the degree of straightening desired, hair treatment history, and the ehemieal nature of the partieular hair to be treated.
A preferred rearranging composition comprise~ a mixture of ammonium 15 thioglycolate and monoethanolamine thioglycolate (MEA-Thio). However, it is within the scope of the invention that either thioglyeolate compound may be used alone or as a substitute for the other. When a mi~ture of the two is used the ammonium thioglycolate is preferably present in eoneentration ran8es of about 6.0 to about 10.0% by weight, and about 3.0 to about 7.0% by weight of the total 20 rearranging eompo~ition. The MEA-Thio is preferably present in eoneentrations of about a most preferred rearran8in8 eomposition comprises about 8.0% by weight of amrnonium thioglycolate and about 5.5% by weight MEA thio. Alternatively, the rearrangin~ eomposition may be charaeterized by the weight ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to MEA-Thio. A preferred ratio is between about 4:6 and about 7:3 25 ammonium thioglycolate to MEA-Thio, with a most preferred ratio of 6:4. When only one salt of the thioglyeolie aeid is used, the preferred concentration is ,:,. . . .:
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betwcen about S.0 and 209~ by weight. Additionally, a varicty of conventional additives may be present in thc rearranging composition, such as, conditioners perfumes, emollients, etc. The pH of thc composition i5 adjusted to between 8.0 and IO.S, preferably using ammonium hydroxide.
S Surprisingly and unexpectedly it has been found that the addition Or a polyquaternary amine salt to the rearranging composition has a si8nificant affect on the quality and settability of the hair both during and lon~ after the wavingprocess. The preferrcd polyquaternary amine salt is a highly char8e cationic homopolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC). A
preferred concentration of MAPTAC is from between about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight of the rearranging composition, with a most preî erred concentration of about 2.0% by weight. The average molecular weight of the MAPTAC
homopolymer ran~es from about 100,000 to about 200,000.
Although not completely understood it is believed that the MAPTAC
increases the longevity of the curl pattern and the humectant qualities of the hair by penetrating into the pore of the hair. When the neutralizcr solution is applied the polymer is bclieved to become ~locked" into the hair. The increased integrity of the hair and the curl pattern that results from the application of MAPTAC
greatly reduces the need for maintenancc betwcen subscquent waving trcatments.
Additionally, a variety of conventional additives may be present in the rearranging composition, such as, conditioners, perfumes, moisturizers, emollients, etc. The pH of thc composition is adjusted to between 8.0 and IO.S using, preferably, ammonium bydro~ide.
The rearranging composition is initially applied to the head and worked into 2S the hair with gentle massage. The rearranging composition is allowed to stand, on the hair for about S I S or 20 minutes while the cystine bonds are bein8 . - , . .
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` ` 1323816 broken down to lanthonine bonds, thc length of timo the rearrsnger is allowed to stand depends upon the degroe of curl in the hair's natural state and the degree of straightness desired.
After the hair hss straightencd to the desired degree, the hair is rinsed, 5 preferably with warm water for about 3-5 minutet to flush away the major portion, preferably all, of the rearranging composition. In this way, the rearranging composition and the wrapping lotion composition are not applied to the hair at the same time.
After the hair has been rinsed, a wrapping lotion is applied to the head and 10 gently massa~ed into the hair. The hair ;s then wrapped on rods, curlers, rollers or any other means known to the art to produce or establish a desired curl pattern. The wrapped hair containin8 the wrapping lotion is allowed to stand for a period of about 5-lS minutos, while the pattern of the curl becomos set.
The wrapping lotion of the invention is a homogeneous mi~ture including a 15 salt of thioglycolic acid and a guar component. The wrapping lotion is specifically formulated to reduce the possibility of o~idation of the hair that may occur due to air exposure. Thus, the wrapping lotion includes a reducing compound, as does the rearranger, but the reducing compound in the wrapping lotion is present in lower concentrations then in the rearranger. O~idation is 20 undesirable becauso it has the tendency to reverse the rela~ing process which resulted from contact with the rearranging composition, and, thus, reform the cystine bonds prematurely.
The preferred salt of thioglycolic acid used in thc wrapping lotion is ammonium thioglycolate. A preferred concentration range of the ammonium 25 thioglycolate is between about 0.3 and 7.0% by weight of the total wrapping lotion composition, with a most preferred concentratlon of about 2~ by weight. It is _ g _ .. . . :
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also within the scope of the invention that the wrapping lotion do~s not conta;n any apprec;able amount of salt of thioglycolic acid, although some level Or reducing agent is preferable as noted.
The 8uar component of the wrapping lotion is obtained from guar gum, also S known as guar flower. Ouar 8um is a commorcially availablc water soluble plant mucilage consisting of linear chains of galactose and manose molecules~ A
preferred source of guar is nonionic ~uar, most preferably a highly substituted hydro~cypropylated guar gum.
Guar gum is a recognized thickonin~ agent in systems that wero not 10 cbemically active. However, it has now been discovered that guar gum can be used in a chemically active system, L~.. a ~ystem conta;ning substantial amounts of active thioglycolates. Moreover, it has been discovered that the presence of the guar component in this wrapping solution si8nificantly increases the volume and body of the hair as a result of the waving process. The curl pattern that 15 results from the waving process is an overall more open/looser and bouncier pattern than was previously possiblc with prior art waving processes. Although the mechanism of the invention is not completely understood, it is believed that the use of a 8uar component in thc wrapping lotion composition is directly attributable to producing the desited sof ter, bouncier more versatile curls. The 20 guar component penetrates the hair where it is believed that the guar influences the reformation of the cy!~ine bonds in the hair, so that when the neutralizer is applied the desired curl pattern is achieved. These advantages of using guar gum wcre unforeseen. A preferred concentration of the guar componcnt in the wrapping lotion is from about 0.2 to about 2.5% by weight of the total 25 composition, with a most preferred concentration of about 0.8% by weight.
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` 1323816 In addition to thc above componcnts, thc wrapping lotion composition may also contain other ingred;entS well known to the art, such as, emollients, conditioners, perfume, surfactants, moisturizers, etc~ The wrapping lotion composition may be preparcd by any suitable procedure known to the art~ A
S preferred procedure involves first dissolvin~ thc guar component into water that is at or below ambient temperature. The water~guar solution is then heated to about 70. Any additional ingredients are then addcd and the resulting mi~ture is cooled to about S0F~ Lastly, the salt of thio~lycolic acid is added, if any, with an amount of ammonium hydro~ide to adjust the pH of the final wrapping lotion composition to bctween about 7~0 to about 10~5, most preferably 9~0 to about 9~6.
The resultant wrappin~ lotion composition has a 8el consistency, with a viscosity ran~e from about S00 cps to about 12,000 cps, most preferably from about 1,800 to about 2,200 cps.
After the wrapping lotion has been allowed to stand on the wrapped hair 15 for a period of about S to about IS minutes, the wrapped hair is then rinsed with warm water to remove any e~cess wrapping lotion compositiom After rinsing, a neutralizer is applied to the wrapped hair to restore the disulfide linkages in the hair keratin. The neutralizer "locks in~ the curl pattern that was formed in the previous steps of the waving process. The e1~act 20 composition of the neutralizer is not believed critical to achieve the improved results obtained by thc waving process of the invention. As known to the art, neutralizers are typically aqueous solutions containing o~idizing agents, such as, sodium bromate. Other ingredients may be added to the neutralizcr composition to improve the aesthetic properties of the hair~ In particular, it has been found that the addition of from about 1~0 to about 5.09~ by weight of etho~ylated castor oil greatly improves the sheen quality of the hair~
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-` 1323816 After application of the noutralizer, the wrapped hair is then rinsed with warm water to remove a substantial portion, prefcrably all, of the neutralizer composition. The rods are then removed and the hair is again rinsed with water. As an optional post-treatment step a sealer may be applied to the hair to clevate the initial dryness that sometimes results ~, immediately after the hair has undergone a waving process. Well known to the art, sealers contain conditioners and humectants.
The present invention therefore includes a multi-step process for waving the hair. The first step of the process is applying a rearranging composition to the hair. This rearranging composition comprises a homogeneous mixture of a salt of a thioglycolic acid and a cationic 10 homopolymer of MAPTAC. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the rearranging composition includes between about 6% and 10% by weight ammonium thioglycolate, between about 5% and 79~ by weight monoethanolamine thioglycolate, and between about 1% to 3% by weight of the cationic homopolymer of MAPTAC.
After the rearranging composition has been applied for a sufficient amount of time, the 15 hair is rinsed to remove the composition. The wrapping lotion is then applied to the hair. The wrapping lotion preferably comprises a homogeneous mixture which includes a salt of a thioglycolic acid and a guar component. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the guar component is a nonionic hydroxypropylated guar and is betwecn about 0.2% and 2.5% by weight of the wrapping lotion, and the thioglycolic salt is ammonium thioglycolate and comprises 20 about 0.3% to 79b by weight of the wrapping lotion.
Subsequent to the application of the wrapping lotion, the hair is wrapped about a rod to produce the desired curl pattern. Once the hair has been on the rod for sufficient time to allow the curl pattern to set, the hair wrapped around the rod is rinsed. Subsequent to rinsing a neutralizer component is added to lock in the curl pattern. This neutralizing component is 25 then rinsed from the hair, leaving a thicker, fuller hair with loose, bouncy curls.
" 1323816 In order to morc rully dcmonstrate the attcndant ndvantages arising from thc present invention, the following examples are set forth. It is to be understood that the following is by way of example of only and is not intended as an undue limitation on the otherwise broad scope of the invention.
EXAMP~E I
A waving process in accordance with the invention was performed using both an improved rearranging composition and an improved wrapping lotion. The first step in the process involved pre-shampooin8 the head with a suitable conditioning shampoo. The hair was 10 ~ then towel blotted dry. The improved rearranging composition was then applied to the hair by a tint-brush procedure in an effect to minimize scalp irritation. The rearran8er used comprised a homogenous mixture of a homopolymer of MAPTAC and MEA thio81ycolate. Table I lists the relative weight fractions of the rearranger components. The rearran8er was allowed to stand on the hair for about 10 to 15 minutes until straight.
After the processing with the rearranger was completed the hair was rinsed thoroughly for about 3 to 5 minutes with warm water, then towel blotted dry. The improved wrapping lotion composition of the invention was then applied in 1/4 head sections. The wrapping lotion comprised a homogenous mixture of ammonium thioglycolate and nonionic guar. Table II lists thc relativc weight fractions of the components for the improved rearranger. The hair in each 20 1/4 section was then wrapped on rods to produce a curl pattern. After rodding, the wrapping lotion was allowed to stand on the hair for about 10 minutes.
The hair with the rods intact was then rinsed thoroughly with warm water and then towel blotted dry.
A conventional neutralizer solution having sodium bromate as the active ingredient was 25 then applied sparingly to each rodded portion of hair and allowed to stand for about 10 minutes under a plastic wrap. After processing with the neutralizer, the rodded hair was then rinsed woll with warm watcr for about 3 to 5 minutes to substantially rcmove the neutralizer.
The hair was then unrodded, rinsed again, and dried under a conventional hair dryer.
The resultant hair style obtained from the waving process of the instant invention was characterized as having a looser, bouncier, more open pattern of curls then hair styles previously possible using prior art waving process. The hair resulting from this Example I was characterized as having thicker, more full bodied hair than results from prior art waving processes. In addition, the longevity of the curl pattern produced and the humectant quality of the hair was incre,ased on a relatively long term basis with substantially lower need for application of maintenance products. The softer, bouncier curls obtained as a result of the 10 instant process is believed directly attributable to the use of the improved wrapping lotion composition, containing the 8uar component.
For the purposes of comparison to the improved waving process of the invention as 15 described in Example 1, a conventional prior art waving process was performed. The procedure use for the conventional waving process was identical to that of the waving process of Example I with the e~cception that the wrapping lotion used did not contain a guar component, and the rearranger did not contain a homopolymer of MAPTAC. Also, ammonium thioglycolate was substituted for MEA thioglycolate. The wrapping lotion and rearranger formulations detailed 20 in Tables I and 11.
The resultant hair style obtained from the conventional waving process was characterizcd as relatively tightly curled, dry, and frizzy in appearance. Furthermore, this style required thc application of maintenance products, such as, moisturizers and curl activators. These maintenance products cause an overall greasy look of the hair style.
` 1323816 k I Ex~mele II
I:~eionized H,O 59.7 59.6 MAPTAC 2.0 --Ammonium Thioglycolate 8.010.0 MEA Thioglycolate5.S -Other Ingredientsl 24.8 30-4 Cond;tioners, surfactants, pH adjusters, mo;sturjzers and fragrance.
TABLE II
0 l~t3~D~
Deionized H,O 92.6 92.6 Ammonium 2.0 2.0 Thioglycolate (609~ solution) Nonionic Guar 0.75 ---Other ingredientsbalance balance pH 9.1 9.3 9.1 9.3 Viscosity, cps1,800 2,200 1,200 - 1,600 Appearance gel/lotion lotion The foregoing e~amples and spccification disclose prcferred and generalized illustrations of the invention. However, variations are possible within the scope of the invention. For e~ample, the wavc wrapping lotion of this invention is believed to provide advantages when used with any rearran8er or neutralizer. It should be understood, therefore, tha~ the invention is to bc limited only by thefollowing claims and their equivalcnts.
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A. Field of Invention This invention relates broadly to an improved permancnt hair waving or curling process and the composition used therein.
5 B. Prior Art Among the eomponents of hair is a proteinaeeous material called ~keratin~.
The hair's keratin is made up of lon8 fibrous polypeptide chains which are bonded together with horizontal cross bonds of two forms: hydrogen bonds and cystine bonds, also sometimes referred to as disul~ide bonds.
10Cystine bond~ play sn essential role in determining the de8ree of curl in hair. Some researehers in the field believe that straight or slightly wavy hair has relatively fewer eystine bonds and relies heavily upon hydrogen bonding to produee cùrl or waves in the hair and that very eurly hair has a relatively larger amount of eystine bonds. Other researchers in the field believe that straight hair IS and curly hair may have the same number of cystine bonds, but that the cystine bonds present in strai8ht hair tend to occur in a relatively straight alignment, whereas the cystine bonds present in curly hair tend to occur out of alignment.
Regardless of whieh theory is aeeepted, while the hydrogen bonds can be broken merely by wetting the ha;r, such that stra;ght or slightly wavy hair will lose 20 virtuslly all body when wet, very curly hair mainta;ns its body even when wet beeause the eystine bonds are relat;vely unaffected by water. Thus, very curly hair cannot be easily reset into new or d;fferent hair styles different from its natural state merely by wett;ng and shap;ng the hair.
Permanent hair waviDg is usually carried out by subjecting the hair to a 25 strong reducing agent, sueh as hydro~ide or, more commonly, materials containing a free "-- SH" group or thiol. These "thiol" materials are also called mercaptans.
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In this treatment, the hair is saturated with tho thiol agent, which then aets to break the disulfide bonds.
When a suffieient number of hair disulfide bonds have been broken, the hair is rinsed, removing the unreacted thiol wavin~ agont and disulfide reaction 5 product. The hair is then reali~ned, ~-L, usually by winding on rollers, in order to physieally align previously unpaired hair protein thiol ~roups, L~,, one-half Or the eystine groups, The hair and rollers are then saturated with an oxidizing agent, or neutralizer, sueh as hydrogen peroxide or a bromate salt, to reform disulfide bonds between the newly paired hair protein thiols and to give the hair 10 a eonfiguration or wave, This general proeess may be used to either add eurl or straighten the hair.
Salts of thioglycolie aeid, such as ammonium thioglycolate, and thioglycolie acid esters, such as glycerol mono thioglycolate, are typically utilized as the thiol waving a8ent. Other thiol-eontaining reagents sueh as thiolaetie aeid, beta-15 mereaptopropionie aeid, beta-mereaptobutyrie aeid, mereaptosuccinic acid and alike have been suggested in the art to be effeetive.
Prior art waving processes are plagued with the problem of either uDderwaving or overwaving (under or over processing) that occurs during waving on different parts of a single hair fiber or difîerent areas of the hair mass due 20 to the physieal or ehernieal condition of the hair itself. For e~cample, hair which has been waved, or bleached, or both is more porous than hair which has not undergone these ehemical treatments, ~L these portions of the hair fiber near the hair root whieh has grown out since the last bleaehing or waving. Similarly, even hair having no previous history of bleaching or waving is more porous near 2S the tip end than near the root end simply because hair near the tip has been brushed more, or has been subjected to more weathering.
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As a consequence of these porosity difforences, the hair tends to take up more waving agent in some areas and Icss waving agent in others. Over waving or processing tends to occur in the more porou5 portions of the hair while underwaving or processing tends to occur in less porous areas. Th~se trends are 5 exactly the inverse of what is desired s;nce the hair which usually needs the waving treatment the most gets the least waving, and visa versa.
Many products today are directed to the special problems and needs of the 81àck ethnic market. People in the Black ethnic market have, for example, hair characterized by a relatively lar8e number of cystine bonds and relatively high 10 dryness. Conventional permanent wavin~ products have particular limitations applied to this market. Typically, the products result in a hair style that is either very curly and quite greasy or relatively straight and stiff and very dry.
Theso prior products are characterized by the need for frequent, heavy maintenance, ~.L. the consumer's application of activators and moisturizers on a 15 daily basis or more than daily basis. None of the prior art compounds are able to produce a Black ethnic hairstyle characterized by thick, f ull-bodied hair f ibers which form loose bouncy curls having good moisture retention.
Another problem that occurs during the hair disulfide bond breaking process is skin irritation caused by the thiol-containing agents. Irritation occurs usually 20 because beauticians frequently use their bare fingers for the wrapping process.
U.S. Patent No. 4,391,286 (Hsiung et al.) and relatod U.S. Patent No.
4,572,220 (Hsiung et al.) both disclose hair conditioning formulations that claim to overcome ~ome of the problems just described. The '286 patent teaches a composition of water having dissolved therein a quaternary nitrogen containing 25 polymet and a water-soluble, disulfide-containing polycarbo~cylic acid or salt. The '220 patent teaches the same composition as the '286 patent with the addition of ,.".............. .. ..
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a thiol-eontaining waving Bgent~ The preferret disulride-eontaining polycarbo~ylie aeids are formed by the oxidation of two moleeules Or mercapto-monocarbo~ylic aeid. E~amples of those eompounds inelude dithiodi81ycolic acid, three-dithiodipropionie aeid~ eystine, dithiodilaetie aeid, dithiodisuee;nie aeid and the S like. The preferred quaternary nitrOgeD eontaining polymer is a cationie guar where a ehloride anion i9 usually associsted with the polymer. The cationie guar is distinguished from other forms or derivatives of guar 8um, sueh as nonionie guar whieh does not eontain quaternary nitrogen compounds. Poth formulations disclosed in these two patents are specifically designed and reeommended for use 10 on the hair after shampooing and prior to a waving proeess (i.e., pre-wrap solutions).
Another hair eonditioning formulation is disclosed in U.S. Patent No.
4,S88,760 (Jachowiez et al.). This formulation for deereasing hair hygroseopieity and improving settability comprises an aqueous solution of he~timinium salt and 15 resorcinol. To faeilitate applieation of this eonditioning formulation, it is diselosed that a eosmetieally aeeeptable thickener, sueh as guar gum, may be incorporated into the formulation.
All of the known waving processes and solutions assoeiated therewith are limited in their fle~ibility to produce a looser, bouncier, curl while maintaining 20 the moisture of the eurls. The present invention provides an improved in hair waving proeess, eliminating many of the problems associated with prior art proeesses and solutions.
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i323816 ~klkl~ OF TH~l~vENTlQ~
Thus, an objeet of tho present invention is to provide an improved hair waving proeess and further to provide an improved wrapping lotion composition for use in a hair waving process~
It is an object of this invention to provide a pormanent waving process and wrapping lotion that produees a soft~r, bouneier curl with an overall open/looser pattern and that requires less maintenance to maintain the integrity of the curl.
A further object of the invention is to provide for improvements in straightness and versatility without dry frizzing of the hair.
A further objoct is to provide for a reduetion in overall proeessing time, less irritation, less odor, and a reduction in the dan8er of overproeessing.
A still further objeet is to provide a waving proeess that imports more body, sheen and manageability to the hair with improved eurl retention.
Aeeordingly, in a broad embodiment, the present invention is a process of waving hair by applying to the hair a rearranging eomposition with ehemieal properties suffieient to ehange the eystine bonds in the hair keratin . to lanthionine bonds. The rearran8in8 composition comprises a homogenous mixture of a salt of thioglyeolie aeid and a homopolymer of methylaerylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium ehloride. After the rearranger has been Ieft`on the hair for a time to accomplish conversion of the bonds, the hairis rinsed to flush away a substantial portion of the rearrangin~ composition.
A wrapping lotion composition is then applied to the hair. The wrapping lotion comprises a homogeneous mi~ture of a salt of thio81ycolic acid and a guarcomponent. The hair, with wrapping lotion applied is wrapped around a rod or roller to produce a desired curl pattern. The hair with wrappin~ lotion applied is Ieft on the rods for a predetermined Iength of time, preferably about 5 to about . , , .::
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IS minutes, in order to set or lock in the desired curl pattern. The wrapped hair is rinsed to flush away only excess wrapping lotion compo~ition.
After rinsing, a neutralizer composition is applied to thc hsir, still on the rods, to lock in the curl psttern. The neutralizcr is left on thc hair for a 5 sufficient period Or time to reostablish the cyst;ne bonds, after which the neutralizer is flushed away by rinsing the hair.
The improved rearran8er comprises a salt of thioglycolatic acid and bctwccn about 1.0 and about 3.0% by weight of a cationic homopolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride. In prcferred form the rearran8er also includes botween about 6.0 ant about 10.0% by weight of ammonium thioglycolate, between about 3.0 and about 7.0h by weight of monoethanolamine thioglycolate. Also, in preferred form, the rearranger has a pH
of between about 8.0 and about IO.S.
The improved wrapping lotion comprises between about 0.8 and about 2.59~
IS by weight of a guar component, preferably nonionic guar gum and between about 0.3 and about 7.0% by weight of a salt of thioglycolic acid, preferably ammonium thioglycolate. In preferred form the wrapping lotion has a pH of between about 7.0 and about IO.S and a viscosity of between about 1,800 to 2,200 cps.
These as well as other objects and embodiments will become apparent upon 20 review of the more detailed description of the ir vention hereinaftcr set forth.
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~323816 DETAI~I) J~pTION OF THE INVENTION
The waving process of the instant invention is comprised of several steps, some of whieh involve the application of specific hair treatment formulations. As a first step, a rearranging eomposition is applied to the hair to perform a 5 straighten;ng function. The rearranging composition conta;ns an aqueous solution of chemical agents capable of reducing the disulfide linkages in hair keratin.
Suitable chemical a~ents inelude water soluble mereaptans, e.8. salts of thioglycolie aeid, sueh as, sodium, monoethanolamine, or ammonium thioglycolate, and magnesium thio81yeolate. Other sources of mereaptans include thio~lycerol, 10 sodium or potassium borohydride, and sodium or ammonium ~ulfite. The amount of these chemieal agents may vary depending on, among other things, the degree of straightening desired, hair treatment history, and the ehemieal nature of the partieular hair to be treated.
A preferred rearranging composition comprise~ a mixture of ammonium 15 thioglycolate and monoethanolamine thioglycolate (MEA-Thio). However, it is within the scope of the invention that either thioglyeolate compound may be used alone or as a substitute for the other. When a mi~ture of the two is used the ammonium thioglycolate is preferably present in eoneentration ran8es of about 6.0 to about 10.0% by weight, and about 3.0 to about 7.0% by weight of the total 20 rearranging eompo~ition. The MEA-Thio is preferably present in eoneentrations of about a most preferred rearran8in8 eomposition comprises about 8.0% by weight of amrnonium thioglycolate and about 5.5% by weight MEA thio. Alternatively, the rearrangin~ eomposition may be charaeterized by the weight ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to MEA-Thio. A preferred ratio is between about 4:6 and about 7:3 25 ammonium thioglycolate to MEA-Thio, with a most preferred ratio of 6:4. When only one salt of the thioglyeolie aeid is used, the preferred concentration is ,:,. . . .:
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betwcen about S.0 and 209~ by weight. Additionally, a varicty of conventional additives may be present in thc rearranging composition, such as, conditioners perfumes, emollients, etc. The pH of thc composition i5 adjusted to between 8.0 and IO.S, preferably using ammonium hydroxide.
S Surprisingly and unexpectedly it has been found that the addition Or a polyquaternary amine salt to the rearranging composition has a si8nificant affect on the quality and settability of the hair both during and lon~ after the wavingprocess. The preferrcd polyquaternary amine salt is a highly char8e cationic homopolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC). A
preferred concentration of MAPTAC is from between about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight of the rearranging composition, with a most preî erred concentration of about 2.0% by weight. The average molecular weight of the MAPTAC
homopolymer ran~es from about 100,000 to about 200,000.
Although not completely understood it is believed that the MAPTAC
increases the longevity of the curl pattern and the humectant qualities of the hair by penetrating into the pore of the hair. When the neutralizcr solution is applied the polymer is bclieved to become ~locked" into the hair. The increased integrity of the hair and the curl pattern that results from the application of MAPTAC
greatly reduces the need for maintenancc betwcen subscquent waving trcatments.
Additionally, a variety of conventional additives may be present in the rearranging composition, such as, conditioners, perfumes, moisturizers, emollients, etc. The pH of thc composition is adjusted to between 8.0 and IO.S using, preferably, ammonium bydro~ide.
The rearranging composition is initially applied to the head and worked into 2S the hair with gentle massage. The rearranging composition is allowed to stand, on the hair for about S I S or 20 minutes while the cystine bonds are bein8 . - , . .
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` ` 1323816 broken down to lanthonine bonds, thc length of timo the rearrsnger is allowed to stand depends upon the degroe of curl in the hair's natural state and the degree of straightness desired.
After the hair hss straightencd to the desired degree, the hair is rinsed, 5 preferably with warm water for about 3-5 minutet to flush away the major portion, preferably all, of the rearranging composition. In this way, the rearranging composition and the wrapping lotion composition are not applied to the hair at the same time.
After the hair has been rinsed, a wrapping lotion is applied to the head and 10 gently massa~ed into the hair. The hair ;s then wrapped on rods, curlers, rollers or any other means known to the art to produce or establish a desired curl pattern. The wrapped hair containin8 the wrapping lotion is allowed to stand for a period of about 5-lS minutos, while the pattern of the curl becomos set.
The wrapping lotion of the invention is a homogeneous mi~ture including a 15 salt of thioglycolic acid and a guar component. The wrapping lotion is specifically formulated to reduce the possibility of o~idation of the hair that may occur due to air exposure. Thus, the wrapping lotion includes a reducing compound, as does the rearranger, but the reducing compound in the wrapping lotion is present in lower concentrations then in the rearranger. O~idation is 20 undesirable becauso it has the tendency to reverse the rela~ing process which resulted from contact with the rearranging composition, and, thus, reform the cystine bonds prematurely.
The preferred salt of thioglycolic acid used in thc wrapping lotion is ammonium thioglycolate. A preferred concentration range of the ammonium 25 thioglycolate is between about 0.3 and 7.0% by weight of the total wrapping lotion composition, with a most preferred concentratlon of about 2~ by weight. It is _ g _ .. . . :
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also within the scope of the invention that the wrapping lotion do~s not conta;n any apprec;able amount of salt of thioglycolic acid, although some level Or reducing agent is preferable as noted.
The 8uar component of the wrapping lotion is obtained from guar gum, also S known as guar flower. Ouar 8um is a commorcially availablc water soluble plant mucilage consisting of linear chains of galactose and manose molecules~ A
preferred source of guar is nonionic ~uar, most preferably a highly substituted hydro~cypropylated guar gum.
Guar gum is a recognized thickonin~ agent in systems that wero not 10 cbemically active. However, it has now been discovered that guar gum can be used in a chemically active system, L~.. a ~ystem conta;ning substantial amounts of active thioglycolates. Moreover, it has been discovered that the presence of the guar component in this wrapping solution si8nificantly increases the volume and body of the hair as a result of the waving process. The curl pattern that 15 results from the waving process is an overall more open/looser and bouncier pattern than was previously possiblc with prior art waving processes. Although the mechanism of the invention is not completely understood, it is believed that the use of a 8uar component in thc wrapping lotion composition is directly attributable to producing the desited sof ter, bouncier more versatile curls. The 20 guar component penetrates the hair where it is believed that the guar influences the reformation of the cy!~ine bonds in the hair, so that when the neutralizer is applied the desired curl pattern is achieved. These advantages of using guar gum wcre unforeseen. A preferred concentration of the guar componcnt in the wrapping lotion is from about 0.2 to about 2.5% by weight of the total 25 composition, with a most preferred concentration of about 0.8% by weight.
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` 1323816 In addition to thc above componcnts, thc wrapping lotion composition may also contain other ingred;entS well known to the art, such as, emollients, conditioners, perfume, surfactants, moisturizers, etc~ The wrapping lotion composition may be preparcd by any suitable procedure known to the art~ A
S preferred procedure involves first dissolvin~ thc guar component into water that is at or below ambient temperature. The water~guar solution is then heated to about 70. Any additional ingredients are then addcd and the resulting mi~ture is cooled to about S0F~ Lastly, the salt of thio~lycolic acid is added, if any, with an amount of ammonium hydro~ide to adjust the pH of the final wrapping lotion composition to bctween about 7~0 to about 10~5, most preferably 9~0 to about 9~6.
The resultant wrappin~ lotion composition has a 8el consistency, with a viscosity ran~e from about S00 cps to about 12,000 cps, most preferably from about 1,800 to about 2,200 cps.
After the wrapping lotion has been allowed to stand on the wrapped hair 15 for a period of about S to about IS minutes, the wrapped hair is then rinsed with warm water to remove any e~cess wrapping lotion compositiom After rinsing, a neutralizer is applied to the wrapped hair to restore the disulfide linkages in the hair keratin. The neutralizer "locks in~ the curl pattern that was formed in the previous steps of the waving process. The e1~act 20 composition of the neutralizer is not believed critical to achieve the improved results obtained by thc waving process of the invention. As known to the art, neutralizers are typically aqueous solutions containing o~idizing agents, such as, sodium bromate. Other ingredients may be added to the neutralizcr composition to improve the aesthetic properties of the hair~ In particular, it has been found that the addition of from about 1~0 to about 5.09~ by weight of etho~ylated castor oil greatly improves the sheen quality of the hair~
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-` 1323816 After application of the noutralizer, the wrapped hair is then rinsed with warm water to remove a substantial portion, prefcrably all, of the neutralizer composition. The rods are then removed and the hair is again rinsed with water. As an optional post-treatment step a sealer may be applied to the hair to clevate the initial dryness that sometimes results ~, immediately after the hair has undergone a waving process. Well known to the art, sealers contain conditioners and humectants.
The present invention therefore includes a multi-step process for waving the hair. The first step of the process is applying a rearranging composition to the hair. This rearranging composition comprises a homogeneous mixture of a salt of a thioglycolic acid and a cationic 10 homopolymer of MAPTAC. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the rearranging composition includes between about 6% and 10% by weight ammonium thioglycolate, between about 5% and 79~ by weight monoethanolamine thioglycolate, and between about 1% to 3% by weight of the cationic homopolymer of MAPTAC.
After the rearranging composition has been applied for a sufficient amount of time, the 15 hair is rinsed to remove the composition. The wrapping lotion is then applied to the hair. The wrapping lotion preferably comprises a homogeneous mixture which includes a salt of a thioglycolic acid and a guar component. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the guar component is a nonionic hydroxypropylated guar and is betwecn about 0.2% and 2.5% by weight of the wrapping lotion, and the thioglycolic salt is ammonium thioglycolate and comprises 20 about 0.3% to 79b by weight of the wrapping lotion.
Subsequent to the application of the wrapping lotion, the hair is wrapped about a rod to produce the desired curl pattern. Once the hair has been on the rod for sufficient time to allow the curl pattern to set, the hair wrapped around the rod is rinsed. Subsequent to rinsing a neutralizer component is added to lock in the curl pattern. This neutralizing component is 25 then rinsed from the hair, leaving a thicker, fuller hair with loose, bouncy curls.
" 1323816 In order to morc rully dcmonstrate the attcndant ndvantages arising from thc present invention, the following examples are set forth. It is to be understood that the following is by way of example of only and is not intended as an undue limitation on the otherwise broad scope of the invention.
EXAMP~E I
A waving process in accordance with the invention was performed using both an improved rearranging composition and an improved wrapping lotion. The first step in the process involved pre-shampooin8 the head with a suitable conditioning shampoo. The hair was 10 ~ then towel blotted dry. The improved rearranging composition was then applied to the hair by a tint-brush procedure in an effect to minimize scalp irritation. The rearran8er used comprised a homogenous mixture of a homopolymer of MAPTAC and MEA thio81ycolate. Table I lists the relative weight fractions of the rearranger components. The rearran8er was allowed to stand on the hair for about 10 to 15 minutes until straight.
After the processing with the rearranger was completed the hair was rinsed thoroughly for about 3 to 5 minutes with warm water, then towel blotted dry. The improved wrapping lotion composition of the invention was then applied in 1/4 head sections. The wrapping lotion comprised a homogenous mixture of ammonium thioglycolate and nonionic guar. Table II lists thc relativc weight fractions of the components for the improved rearranger. The hair in each 20 1/4 section was then wrapped on rods to produce a curl pattern. After rodding, the wrapping lotion was allowed to stand on the hair for about 10 minutes.
The hair with the rods intact was then rinsed thoroughly with warm water and then towel blotted dry.
A conventional neutralizer solution having sodium bromate as the active ingredient was 25 then applied sparingly to each rodded portion of hair and allowed to stand for about 10 minutes under a plastic wrap. After processing with the neutralizer, the rodded hair was then rinsed woll with warm watcr for about 3 to 5 minutes to substantially rcmove the neutralizer.
The hair was then unrodded, rinsed again, and dried under a conventional hair dryer.
The resultant hair style obtained from the waving process of the instant invention was characterized as having a looser, bouncier, more open pattern of curls then hair styles previously possible using prior art waving process. The hair resulting from this Example I was characterized as having thicker, more full bodied hair than results from prior art waving processes. In addition, the longevity of the curl pattern produced and the humectant quality of the hair was incre,ased on a relatively long term basis with substantially lower need for application of maintenance products. The softer, bouncier curls obtained as a result of the 10 instant process is believed directly attributable to the use of the improved wrapping lotion composition, containing the 8uar component.
For the purposes of comparison to the improved waving process of the invention as 15 described in Example 1, a conventional prior art waving process was performed. The procedure use for the conventional waving process was identical to that of the waving process of Example I with the e~cception that the wrapping lotion used did not contain a guar component, and the rearranger did not contain a homopolymer of MAPTAC. Also, ammonium thioglycolate was substituted for MEA thioglycolate. The wrapping lotion and rearranger formulations detailed 20 in Tables I and 11.
The resultant hair style obtained from the conventional waving process was characterizcd as relatively tightly curled, dry, and frizzy in appearance. Furthermore, this style required thc application of maintenance products, such as, moisturizers and curl activators. These maintenance products cause an overall greasy look of the hair style.
` 1323816 k I Ex~mele II
I:~eionized H,O 59.7 59.6 MAPTAC 2.0 --Ammonium Thioglycolate 8.010.0 MEA Thioglycolate5.S -Other Ingredientsl 24.8 30-4 Cond;tioners, surfactants, pH adjusters, mo;sturjzers and fragrance.
TABLE II
0 l~t3~D~
Deionized H,O 92.6 92.6 Ammonium 2.0 2.0 Thioglycolate (609~ solution) Nonionic Guar 0.75 ---Other ingredientsbalance balance pH 9.1 9.3 9.1 9.3 Viscosity, cps1,800 2,200 1,200 - 1,600 Appearance gel/lotion lotion The foregoing e~amples and spccification disclose prcferred and generalized illustrations of the invention. However, variations are possible within the scope of the invention. For e~ample, the wavc wrapping lotion of this invention is believed to provide advantages when used with any rearran8er or neutralizer. It should be understood, therefore, tha~ the invention is to bc limited only by thefollowing claims and their equivalcnts.
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Claims (14)
1. A process for waving hair, comprising the following steps in combination:
(a) applying to the hair a rearranging composition with chemical properties sufficient to break the cystine bonds in the hair keratin, said rearranging composition comprises a homogeneous mixture of a salt of thioglycolic acid and a cationic homopolymer of methylacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride;
(b) rinsing the hair to substantially remove the rearranging composition;
(c) applying a wrapping lotion composition to the hair, said wrapping lotion comprises a homogeneous mixture which includes a salt of thioglycolic acid and a guar component;
(d) wrapping the hair around a rod to produce a curl pattern and allowing the hair and wrapping lotion to set for a predetermined length of time;
(e) rinsing the wrapped hair;
(f) applying a neutralizer composition to the curl pattern; and (g) rinsing the hair to substantially remove the neutralizer composition, whereby the process produces thicker, fuller hair with loose, bouncy curls.
(a) applying to the hair a rearranging composition with chemical properties sufficient to break the cystine bonds in the hair keratin, said rearranging composition comprises a homogeneous mixture of a salt of thioglycolic acid and a cationic homopolymer of methylacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride;
(b) rinsing the hair to substantially remove the rearranging composition;
(c) applying a wrapping lotion composition to the hair, said wrapping lotion comprises a homogeneous mixture which includes a salt of thioglycolic acid and a guar component;
(d) wrapping the hair around a rod to produce a curl pattern and allowing the hair and wrapping lotion to set for a predetermined length of time;
(e) rinsing the wrapped hair;
(f) applying a neutralizer composition to the curl pattern; and (g) rinsing the hair to substantially remove the neutralizer composition, whereby the process produces thicker, fuller hair with loose, bouncy curls.
2. The process of Claim 1 wherein the wrapping lotion composition comprises:
(a) between about 0.2 and about 2.5% by weight of a guar component; and (b) between about 0.0 ant about 7.0% by weight of a salt of thioglycolic acid.
(a) between about 0.2 and about 2.5% by weight of a guar component; and (b) between about 0.0 ant about 7.0% by weight of a salt of thioglycolic acid.
3. The process of Claim 2 wherein the wrapping lotion composition has a pH of between 7.0 and 10.5.
4. The process of Claim 2 wherein the guar component comprises a nonionic guar.
5. The process of Claim 4 wherein the nonionic guar comprises a highly substituted hydroxypropylated guar.
6. The process of Claim 2 wherein the salt of thioglycolic acid comprises ammonium thioglycolate.
7. The process of Claim 2 wherein the wrapping lotion composition has a viscosity of from about 1,800 to about 2,200 cps.
8. The process of Claim 1 wherein the rearranging composition comprises:
(a) between about 5.0 and about 20% by weight of a salt of thioglycolic acid; and (b) between about 1.0 and about 3.0% by weight of a c a t i o n i c h o m o p o l y m e r o f methylacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride.
(a) between about 5.0 and about 20% by weight of a salt of thioglycolic acid; and (b) between about 1.0 and about 3.0% by weight of a c a t i o n i c h o m o p o l y m e r o f methylacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride.
9. The process of Claim 8 wherein the salt of thioglycolic acid comprises ammonium thioglycolate.
10. The process of Claim 8 wherein the salt of thioglycolic acid comprises monoethanolamine thioglycolate.
11. The process of Claim 8 wherein the salt of thioglycolic acid comprises ammonium thioglycolate and monoethanolamine thioglycolate.
12. The process of Claim 11 wherein the weight ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to monethanolamine thioglycolate is between about 4:6 and about 7:3.
13. A process of Claim 8 wherein the rearranging composition is at a pH
of between 8.0 and about 10.5.
of between 8.0 and about 10.5.
14. A process for waving hair, comprising the following steps in combination:
(a) applying to the hair a rearranging composition with chemical properties sufficient to break the cystine bonds in the hair keratin, said rearranging composition comprises between about 6.0 and about 10.0% by weight ammonium thioglycolate, between about 5.0 and about 7.0%
by weight monoethanolamine thioglycolate, and between about 1.0 and about 3.0% by weight of a c a t i o n i c h o m o p o l y m e r o f methylacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride;
(b) rinsing the hair to substantially remove the rearranging composition;
(c) applying a wrapping lotion composition to the hair, said wrapping lotion comprises between about 0.2 and about 2.5% by weight of nonionic hydroxypropylated guar and between about 0.3 and about 7.0% by weight of ammonium thioglycolate;
(d) wrapping the hair around a rod to produce a curl pattern and allowing the hair and wrapping lotion to set for a predetermined length of time;
(e) rinsing the wrapped hair;
(f) applying a neutralizer composition to lock in the curl pattern; and (g) rinsing the hair to substantially remove the neutralizer composition, whereby the process produces thicker, fuller hair with loose, bouncy curls.
(a) applying to the hair a rearranging composition with chemical properties sufficient to break the cystine bonds in the hair keratin, said rearranging composition comprises between about 6.0 and about 10.0% by weight ammonium thioglycolate, between about 5.0 and about 7.0%
by weight monoethanolamine thioglycolate, and between about 1.0 and about 3.0% by weight of a c a t i o n i c h o m o p o l y m e r o f methylacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride;
(b) rinsing the hair to substantially remove the rearranging composition;
(c) applying a wrapping lotion composition to the hair, said wrapping lotion comprises between about 0.2 and about 2.5% by weight of nonionic hydroxypropylated guar and between about 0.3 and about 7.0% by weight of ammonium thioglycolate;
(d) wrapping the hair around a rod to produce a curl pattern and allowing the hair and wrapping lotion to set for a predetermined length of time;
(e) rinsing the wrapped hair;
(f) applying a neutralizer composition to lock in the curl pattern; and (g) rinsing the hair to substantially remove the neutralizer composition, whereby the process produces thicker, fuller hair with loose, bouncy curls.
Applications Claiming Priority (6)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US158,209 | 1988-02-19 | ||
| US07/158,209 US4883657A (en) | 1988-02-19 | 1988-02-19 | Rearranger process and composition for permanent waving process |
| US07/157,842 US4996997A (en) | 1988-02-19 | 1988-02-19 | Permanent waving process and compositions |
| US157,842 | 1988-02-19 | ||
| US07/157,899 US4885160A (en) | 1988-02-19 | 1988-02-19 | Wrapping lotion and method for permanent waving |
| US157,899 | 1988-02-19 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1323816C true CA1323816C (en) | 1993-11-02 |
Family
ID=27388083
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000591386A Expired - Fee Related CA1323816C (en) | 1988-02-19 | 1989-02-17 | Permanent waving process and compositions |
Country Status (5)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0356508A4 (en) |
| BR (1) | BR8905998A (en) |
| CA (1) | CA1323816C (en) |
| OA (1) | OA09233A (en) |
| WO (1) | WO1989007435A2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2682017B1 (en) * | 1991-10-04 | 1993-11-19 | Oreal | PROCESS FOR PERMANENT DEFORMATION OF CYSTEAMINE-BASED HAIR THAT DOES NOT GENERATE AN UNpleasant Odor. |
| FR2738740B1 (en) * | 1995-09-18 | 1997-10-24 | Oreal | NEW PROCESS FOR PERMANENT DEFORMATION OF KERATINIC MATERIALS |
| US5863526A (en) * | 1997-01-10 | 1999-01-26 | Rhone-Poulenc, Inc. | Homopolymers prepared from ammonium quaternary salts of aminoalkylacrylamides |
| FR2769499B1 (en) * | 1997-10-10 | 2000-01-14 | Oreal | PROCESS OF PERMANENT DEFORMATION OF KERATINIC MATERIAL WITHOUT INTERMEDIATE RINSING |
| FR2854796A1 (en) * | 2003-05-14 | 2004-11-19 | Oreal | Removing make-up from keratin fibers previously treated with ligand-receptor system, e.g. dyed or permed hair, by applying ligand and/or salt then rinsing |
| FR2889530B1 (en) | 2005-08-05 | 2008-02-01 | Rhodia Chimie Sa | PRODUCT FROM GUAR PROTEIN EXTRACT, PROCESS FOR PREPARATION AND USES |
| EP1797861A1 (en) | 2005-12-16 | 2007-06-20 | KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH | Composition for the permanent shaping of human hair |
| EP2011543A1 (en) * | 2007-06-26 | 2009-01-07 | KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH | Composition for the permanent shaping of human hair |
| EP2011478A1 (en) | 2007-06-26 | 2009-01-07 | KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH | Composition for the permanent shaping of human hair |
| EP2011479A1 (en) | 2007-06-26 | 2009-01-07 | KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH | Composition for the permanent shaping of human hair |
| DE102012206551A1 (en) * | 2012-04-20 | 2013-10-24 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Perming process |
Family Cites Families (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| NL6410355A (en) * | 1963-09-06 | 1965-03-08 | ||
| US4366827A (en) * | 1979-12-28 | 1983-01-04 | Societe Anonyme Dite: L'oreal | Procedure for the permanent reshaping of hair, and composition intended for carrying out said procedure |
| CA1138341A (en) * | 1980-01-23 | 1982-12-28 | Leszek J. Wolfram | Waving composition from a reducing agent and cationic polymer |
| CA1190857A (en) * | 1982-02-08 | 1985-07-23 | Leszek J. Wolfram | Hair waving or straightening process that simultaneously conditions hair and hair waving composition therefor |
| EP0257256B1 (en) * | 1986-07-11 | 1992-09-09 | The Gillette Company | Method and composition for permanent waving and straightening of hair |
-
1989
- 1989-02-14 WO PCT/US1989/000689 patent/WO1989007435A2/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1989-02-14 BR BR898905998A patent/BR8905998A/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1989-02-14 EP EP19890903397 patent/EP0356508A4/en not_active Withdrawn
- 1989-02-17 CA CA000591386A patent/CA1323816C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1989-02-17 OA OA59528A patent/OA09233A/en unknown
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO1989007435A2 (en) | 1989-08-24 |
| BR8905998A (en) | 1990-05-08 |
| OA09233A (en) | 1992-06-30 |
| EP0356508A4 (en) | 1990-10-03 |
| EP0356508A1 (en) | 1990-03-07 |
| WO1989007435A3 (en) | 1989-12-14 |
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| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| MKLA | Lapsed |