CA1300361C - High-strength feed yarns for sewing yarns, and process for their preparation - Google Patents
High-strength feed yarns for sewing yarns, and process for their preparationInfo
- Publication number
- CA1300361C CA1300361C CA000489635A CA489635A CA1300361C CA 1300361 C CA1300361 C CA 1300361C CA 000489635 A CA000489635 A CA 000489635A CA 489635 A CA489635 A CA 489635A CA 1300361 C CA1300361 C CA 1300361C
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- Prior art keywords
- yarns
- filament
- strength
- yarn
- feed
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/44—Yarns or threads characterised by the purpose for which they are designed
- D02G3/46—Sewing-cottons or the like
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
- D01F6/58—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from homopolycondensation products
- D01F6/62—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from homopolycondensation products from polyesters
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Spinning Methods And Devices For Manufacturing Artificial Fibers (AREA)
- Polyesters Or Polycarbonates (AREA)
Abstract
Abstract of the disclosure:
The invention relates to multifilament feed yarns from filament-forming polyesters for preparing high-strength multi-ply sewing yarns and to a process for their pre-paration. The claimed feed yarns are distinguished by a heat shrinkage at 200°C of 5 to 7%, a reference ex-tension at 45 cN/tex of less than 10% and a high relative solution viscosity. The preparation process is distinguished by a high windup speed in spinning which corresponds to a preorientation corresponding to a birefringence of more than 0.03 and by stabilization (setting) of the resulting filaments after stretching at temperatures of up to 225°C.
The invention relates to multifilament feed yarns from filament-forming polyesters for preparing high-strength multi-ply sewing yarns and to a process for their pre-paration. The claimed feed yarns are distinguished by a heat shrinkage at 200°C of 5 to 7%, a reference ex-tension at 45 cN/tex of less than 10% and a high relative solution viscosity. The preparation process is distinguished by a high windup speed in spinning which corresponds to a preorientation corresponding to a birefringence of more than 0.03 and by stabilization (setting) of the resulting filaments after stretching at temperatures of up to 225°C.
Description
13()0361 High-strength feed yarns for sewing yarns, and process for their preparation The present invention relates to high-strength multifila-ment polyester feed yarns for preparing sewing yarns and to a process for the;r preparation.
For the purposes of the present ;nvent;on, sew;ng yarns are multi-ply sewing yarns. The preparation of these multi-ply yarns on an appropriate machine requires feed yarns which are to be comprised in the present case of continuous polyester filaments. Such sewing yarns need 10 to be of high strength, have good sewing properties, give good seam strength, and be low-shr;nk, in order to prevent seam distortion during washing or in the course of a ther-mal treatment.
15 German Auslegeschrift 1,288,734 reveals that the spinning cond;t;ons for the preparat;on of h;gh-strength yarns need to be such that the tens;ons act;ng on the solidifying filament are extremely low and that the resulting filament only has a very low preor;entat;on wh;ch corresponds for 20 example to a b;refr;ngence of less than 0.003. In th;s context, spinn;ng takeoff speeds of 600 to 80û m/m;n have been found to be su;table.
These low outputs per sp;nn;ng jet are unsat;sfactory.
25 The obvious measure of ra;s;ng the volume throughput per jet by ra;sing the spinn;ng takeoff speed, as for example depicted in Figure 1 of German Offenlegungsschrift 2,207,849, does not lead to success, s;nce h;therto all attempts at prepar;ng high-strength yarns by h;gh-speed 30 sp;nn;ng have fa;led because of the low strength and the high extensibil;ty of such f;laments. The textile values of filaments prepared in this way can already be found ;n US Patent 2,604,667.
German Auslegeschr;ft 2,254,998 descr;bes a process wh;ch comprises first doubling and twisting the freshly spun filaments and only then stretching the result;ng cord yarn. It ;s relat;vely costly to apply a cord twist be-5 fore stretch;ng, but in particular it is prone to break-down. This is presumably why the process has failed to attain practical ;mportance.
An attempt at prepar;ng high-strength polyester yarns by 10 high-speed sp;nning ;s descr;bed ;n Japanese laid open pub-ati-on 51-53,019. The birefr;ngence of the feed yarn is supposed to be above 0.030, and the stretch rat;o ;s sup-posed to be at least 70X of the h;ghest poss;ble stretch rat;o. Th;s process ;ncorporates a shr;nk stage w;th up 15 to 11X allowed shr;nkage.
The yarns thus prepared have a h;gh tensile strength w;th values up to 7.0 g/den, and the;r hot-a;r shr;nkage at 150C ;s ;n the Examples between 0.8 and 2.7%. Desp;te these bas;cally favorable text;le data, sew;ng yarns pre-20 pared therefrom do not have sat;sfactory sewing proper-t;es. Th;s shows up ;n part;cular ;n the low sew;ng lengths of such sew;ng yarns. Presumably, the abovemen-t;oned d;sadvantages of the polyester yarns of Japanese patent publication 51-53,019 could be at least partly due 25 to the low molecular we;ght of these yarns. However, the use of f;lament-form;ng polyesters hav;ng a relat;vely low molecular we;ght ;s w;despread in the preparat;on of h;gh-strength yarns, s;nce polyesters hav;ng a h;gher average molecular we;ght are supposed to have a lower modulus of 30 elast;c;ty and ;n part;cular h;gh shr;nkage values. Th;s dependence ;s ment;oned for example ;n German Auslege-schr;ft 2,332,720 column 2 l;nes 41 to 46.
The present ;nvent;on therefore has for ;ts object the 35 preparat;on of h;gh-strength polyester feed yarns wh;ch have a hot-a;r shr;nkage of 5 to 7% at a temperature of 200C and wh;ch can be used to obta;n sew;ng yarns hav-;ng excellent sew;ng propert;es. Moreover, these feed yarns should have a very h;gh strength.
13U03~.
It has now been found that such feed yarns can be obtained in a modified high-speed spinning process provided that, unlike the teaching of the state of the art, the filament-form;ng polyesters used have a high average molecular S we;ght corresponding to a h;gh relative viscos;ty of above 2Ø
This relative viscosity is determined on solutions of 1 9 of polymer ;n 100 ml of dichloroacet;c ac;d at 25C by means of capillary viscometers. It is surprising that 10 such high-speed filaments hav;ng h;gh molecular we;ght are su;table at all for prepar;ng sewing yarns. ~y rais;ng the sp;nning speed and the windup speed and because of the attendant preorientation of the filaments, the strength of the filaments obtained is reduced even after a correspond-15 ing additional stretching, as was to be expected from theteaching of German Auslegungsschrift 1,288,734. However, such feed yarns with markedly reduced tens;le strength surpr;s;ngly show a smaller loss of strength after the doubl;ng process and an appropr;ate dyeing; the strength 20 ut;l;zat;on of the dyed multi-ply yarn ;s sign;f;cantly better than in the case of corresponding multi-ply yarns from material spun at low speed. In particular, however, after processing into a sewing yarn the yarns according to the invention have an unexpectedly h;gh seam strength and 25 unexpectedly improved processing properties. The measure used here ;s the so-called sew;ng length.
The process accord;ng to the ;nvent;on compr;ses a high-speed spin of h;gh-molecular polyesters where;n measures 30 known per se, such as, for example, heating of the jet, are to be used to obtain ideally no reduct;on of the mole-cular weight dur;ng sp;nning. The stabilizat;on tempera-ture of 225C and below makes ;t poss;ble to prepare the yarns according to the ;nvent;on on convent;onal stretch-35 ;ng apparatus. The stretch rat;o needs of course to beadapted to the higher preorientation of the feed yarns.
The advantages wh;ch are obta;nable through us;ng the feed yarns according to the invent;on are most read;ly apparent from the Examples. In the Examples, var;ous feed yarns were used and processed by doubllng ;nto sewing yarns.
The quant;t;es var;ed ;n the Examples were the average molecular weight of the f;lament-form;ng polyester and the preorientat;on, ;.e. the w;ndup speed of the f;laments dur;ng sp;nn;ng.
In th;s descr;pt;on the preor;entat;on ;s expressed ;n terms of the b;refr;ngence of the f;laments. The refer-ence extension (D45), i.e. the extension wh;ch is measured under 45 cN/tex, ;s used as a measure of the elast;c;ty of the f;laments. Unl;ke the ;n;t;al modulus, the reference extens;on ;s additionally also affected by the possible presence of a "shr;nkage saddle" ;n the stress-stra;n d;agram. The stress-stra;n d;agram of ther-momechan;cally fully shrunk f;laments shows to a lesser or h;gher degree after a customary steep r;se a marked extens;on of the mater;al even at reLat;vely low tens;le stresses. It ;s only at h;gher extens;on values that the curve r;ses further and then ends up at poss;bly s;m;lar values as the correspond;ng but unshrunk mater;al. In the case of a fully shrunk mater;al, however, the elonga-t;on at break value ;s at any rate s;gn;f;cantly h;gher.
The hot-air shrinkage S200 or S180 was determ;ned ;n accordance with DIN 53,866 at temperatures of 200 or 180C.
The sew;ng propert;es were determ;ned by means of a spec;-ally developed test method for which patent protect;on ;s being sought in an application of the same priority date. The measured variable used is a sewing test by means of an in-dustr;al sewing machine under standard;zed cond;t;ons.
The length of the seam produced perm;ts ;nferences about the su;tab;lity of a sew;ng yarn.
The ;ndustr;al sew;ng mach;ne used was suppl;ed by Pfaff with a needle of metr;c count 90; sew;ng took place w;th a double lock st;tch sett;ng of 5 stitches per centimeter and, in the standard case, at a sew;ng speed of 4,000 stitches per m;nute. The tens;on on the top thread ;s 175 to 180 cN, and the bottom thread ;s ;n th;s test a 13(~03f~1 good sew;ng thread ;n cotton. The tens;on on the bottom thread ;s set such that the loops disappear ;n the fabr;c mater;al tsat;sfactory seam appearance). The mater;al sewn ;s a 5-fold layer of cotton tw;ll hav;ng a we;ght per un;t area of 185 g/m2 and 95 warp and 50 weft threads per cent;meter. A standard weave for workwear from the f;rm of Nadler & Sohn, Augsburg, Art;cle No. 13960-80/2, dyed dark blue w;th Hydron Blue and sanfor;zed, was used.
The measured value, namely "sew;ng length", indicates the length of the seam in centimeters unt;l thread breakage and ;s a mean value from 10 sews per test bobb;n. The test procedure ;s term;nated when a measurement g;ves a sew;ng length of greater than 1,000 cm, s;nce from exper;-ence sew;ng lengths of above 1,000 cm under these cond;-t;ons are certa;nly ;nd;cat;ve of very good sewingproperties.
It is possible to make the sewing test more severe. In the more severe sew;ng test, the abovement;oned cond;t;ons are ma;ntained, except that the top thread now has a ten-sion of 220 cN and the number of stitches is 5,000 stitches/minute.
The seam strength is a further parameter for assess;ng the propert;es of sew;ng yarns. It ;s determ;ned by us;ng an ;ndustr;al sew;ng mach;ne, for example from Pfaff.
Mach;ne sett;ng: lock st;tch 5 st;tches per centimeter of seam length, 4,000 stitches/m;nute. The top and bottom threads are ;dent;cal ;n th;s test and compr;se the test sample. The thread tens;on sett;ng is optimized for good seam appearance, and sewing takes place on a twofold layer of cotton twi~l. The cotton tw;ll used was the same mater;al as used ;n the sew;ng length determ;nat;on. The seam strength ;s the max;mum tens;le force of a 5 cm w;de str;p. This tens;le force ;s determ;ned ;n a tens;le tester us;ng an operat;ng speed of 10 cm per m;nute. The value found ;s converted to the ;nd;v;dual thread.
The propert;es of sew;ng yarns can also be character;zed ~3(~036~
by means of the "number of rotations of an abrading knife", wh;ch were determ;ned by means of a mod;f;ed abra-s;on tester from the firm of Zweigle bearing the des;gna-t;on G 550 S, the rotat;ng test body having a hard-metal section abras;ve str;p. In each measurement, 20 yarn loops are placed on the ;nstrument and each is we;ghted w;th such a we;ght that the yarn tens;on ;s 0.135 cN/dtex.
The variable determined in each case is the number of abras;on revolut;ons wh;ch ;s necessary for abrad;ng through one of the 20 test loops used.
The follow;ng Examples are ;ntended to ;llustrate the ;n-vent;on ;n more detail. Parts and percentages are by we;ght, unless otherw;se stated.
Examples The f;laments were spun by melt;ng su;table polyethylene terephthalate mater;als ;n an extruder. If the polyester materials were of h;gh viscos;ty, the sp;n pack temperature was mainta;ned at 290C, but the jet temperature at 315C. In contrast, the spinning of lower-viscosity mater1al was effected at a spin pack and jet temperature of 295C. The jets used in either case had 32 holes.
After cooling down in the spinning cell the filaments were treated with a spin finish and then wound up at 800 or 1,000 m per minute or, in accordance with the ;nvent;on, at for example 3,000 m per m;nute.
The spin packages obtained were then presented to so-called three-godet machines, for example to an SZ 26 from the firm of Barmag. The multif;lament yarns are drawn there from the spin package and are looped for example 6 t;mes around a first godet where they are heated to the stretching temperature of customar;ly 87C and are then passed on to a second hot godet at the stabil;zation tem-perature. Between the first and second godet is the stretching zone. The stretch ratio used is dependent on the preorientation of the filaments. The ;nd;v;dual f;gures are g;ven ;n the Table below. After the stab;l;-zat;on godet, around wh;ch the yarn passes for example 10 times, the yarn is passed to a third godet wh;ch is custo-marily not heated. Between the second and the third godet the yarn material can be relaxed. The stretched yarns are subsequently wound up on cops. Under these conditions the yarn material has only rece;ved protective torque of about 10 turns per meter. Operat;ng speed when using SZ 26 mach;nes: 610 m/m;n. The yarn mater;al thus obta;ned 10 represents the feed yarns for the preparat;on of a sew;ng yarn.
The feed yarns need to be rewound onto feed packages. To test their propert;es they are then used to feed a LEZZENI
15 twisting/plying/twisting mach;ne of the TBR type. Th;s mach;ne operates at a speed of 10 m/m;n and produces a three-ply yarn wh;ch ;s des;gnated 138 dtex f 32 S 840 x 3 Z 540.
The multi-ply yarns obta;ned were subjected to an HT dye-20 ing at 135C for 120 m;nutes. The dyed yarn was subse-quently tested for ;ts text;le propert;es and ;n part;cu-lar for ;ts suitabil;ty as a sewing yarn. The measured values obtained are reproduced in the following Table.
13~0361 Example No. 1 Z 3 (Comparison) (Comparison) Relative viscosity of threads 2.03 2.03 1.93 Sp;n speed m/min3000 800 1000 ~;refr;ngence x10 3 44 ~10 ~lO
Stretch;ng temperature C 78 78 78 Stretch rat;o 1 . 2.0 4.84 4.75 Stabilization (set) t~era~C 220 225 225 Relaxation % 5.2 7.4 9.2 Values of feed yarns Denier dtex 138 120 138 Maximum tensile force cN 769 817 965 Tenacity cN/tex 55 68 69 Elongation at break % 19 21 17 Loop strength cN/tex 46 43 40 Reference extension D45 % 9.4 13 3 10.6 Heat shrinkage S 2007~ . 6.0 8.8 6.0 V2 lues of dyed yarns Maximum tensile forcecN 2250 2280 2560 Tenacity cN/tex 50 60 57 Elongation at break % 24 20 20 Loop strength ^N/t ex 38 42 35 Reference extension D45 96 14.7 l 9 3 15.3 Heat shrinkage S180 g 1.9 1.4 2.8 Strength utiLization % 97 93 88 (efficiency) Seam strength cN/tex 29 ~ 25 Sew;ng length, standard load cm ~1000 ~ 1000 640 Sew;ng length, h;gh load cm >1000 77 81 130Q36~
_ 9 _ The Table of the Examples reveals that the feed yarns prepared according to the invention ;n Example 1 have markedly lower strength than those which are in accordance with the state of the art, i.e. in particular those of Example 3. But it is not only the strength values of the feed yarns but also the multi-ply yarns prepared therefrom and then dyed which still have a lower tenacity than the state of the art. However, it is noteworthy that in the case of the yarns according to the invention the decrease of 10 the strength values is lower than for the state of the art material. That is particularly clear from considering the strength utilization, which is calculated as follows:
Maximum tensile force of the dyed Strength multi-ply yarn 15 utilization = ----------------------------------(efficiency) 3 x maximum tensile force of the feed yarns.
The difference in strength utilization of 97% in the case 20 of the yarns according to the invention compared with 88X
of the state of the art material is remarkable. It is even more remarkable, however, that the sewing yarns pre-pared from feed yarns which are in accordance with the invention have a better seam strength, but in particular 25 a signiflcantly improved sewing length, in particular under tougher conditions. This surprising improved fit-ness for purpose was in no way foreseeable and could not in particular be inferred from the values of the feed yarns or indeed from the physical values of the sewing 3û yarns prepared therefrom.
For the purposes of the present ;nvent;on, sew;ng yarns are multi-ply sewing yarns. The preparation of these multi-ply yarns on an appropriate machine requires feed yarns which are to be comprised in the present case of continuous polyester filaments. Such sewing yarns need 10 to be of high strength, have good sewing properties, give good seam strength, and be low-shr;nk, in order to prevent seam distortion during washing or in the course of a ther-mal treatment.
15 German Auslegeschrift 1,288,734 reveals that the spinning cond;t;ons for the preparat;on of h;gh-strength yarns need to be such that the tens;ons act;ng on the solidifying filament are extremely low and that the resulting filament only has a very low preor;entat;on wh;ch corresponds for 20 example to a b;refr;ngence of less than 0.003. In th;s context, spinn;ng takeoff speeds of 600 to 80û m/m;n have been found to be su;table.
These low outputs per sp;nn;ng jet are unsat;sfactory.
25 The obvious measure of ra;s;ng the volume throughput per jet by ra;sing the spinn;ng takeoff speed, as for example depicted in Figure 1 of German Offenlegungsschrift 2,207,849, does not lead to success, s;nce h;therto all attempts at prepar;ng high-strength yarns by h;gh-speed 30 sp;nn;ng have fa;led because of the low strength and the high extensibil;ty of such f;laments. The textile values of filaments prepared in this way can already be found ;n US Patent 2,604,667.
German Auslegeschr;ft 2,254,998 descr;bes a process wh;ch comprises first doubling and twisting the freshly spun filaments and only then stretching the result;ng cord yarn. It ;s relat;vely costly to apply a cord twist be-5 fore stretch;ng, but in particular it is prone to break-down. This is presumably why the process has failed to attain practical ;mportance.
An attempt at prepar;ng high-strength polyester yarns by 10 high-speed sp;nning ;s descr;bed ;n Japanese laid open pub-ati-on 51-53,019. The birefr;ngence of the feed yarn is supposed to be above 0.030, and the stretch rat;o ;s sup-posed to be at least 70X of the h;ghest poss;ble stretch rat;o. Th;s process ;ncorporates a shr;nk stage w;th up 15 to 11X allowed shr;nkage.
The yarns thus prepared have a h;gh tensile strength w;th values up to 7.0 g/den, and the;r hot-a;r shr;nkage at 150C ;s ;n the Examples between 0.8 and 2.7%. Desp;te these bas;cally favorable text;le data, sew;ng yarns pre-20 pared therefrom do not have sat;sfactory sewing proper-t;es. Th;s shows up ;n part;cular ;n the low sew;ng lengths of such sew;ng yarns. Presumably, the abovemen-t;oned d;sadvantages of the polyester yarns of Japanese patent publication 51-53,019 could be at least partly due 25 to the low molecular we;ght of these yarns. However, the use of f;lament-form;ng polyesters hav;ng a relat;vely low molecular we;ght ;s w;despread in the preparat;on of h;gh-strength yarns, s;nce polyesters hav;ng a h;gher average molecular we;ght are supposed to have a lower modulus of 30 elast;c;ty and ;n part;cular h;gh shr;nkage values. Th;s dependence ;s ment;oned for example ;n German Auslege-schr;ft 2,332,720 column 2 l;nes 41 to 46.
The present ;nvent;on therefore has for ;ts object the 35 preparat;on of h;gh-strength polyester feed yarns wh;ch have a hot-a;r shr;nkage of 5 to 7% at a temperature of 200C and wh;ch can be used to obta;n sew;ng yarns hav-;ng excellent sew;ng propert;es. Moreover, these feed yarns should have a very h;gh strength.
13U03~.
It has now been found that such feed yarns can be obtained in a modified high-speed spinning process provided that, unlike the teaching of the state of the art, the filament-form;ng polyesters used have a high average molecular S we;ght corresponding to a h;gh relative viscos;ty of above 2Ø
This relative viscosity is determined on solutions of 1 9 of polymer ;n 100 ml of dichloroacet;c ac;d at 25C by means of capillary viscometers. It is surprising that 10 such high-speed filaments hav;ng h;gh molecular we;ght are su;table at all for prepar;ng sewing yarns. ~y rais;ng the sp;nning speed and the windup speed and because of the attendant preorientation of the filaments, the strength of the filaments obtained is reduced even after a correspond-15 ing additional stretching, as was to be expected from theteaching of German Auslegungsschrift 1,288,734. However, such feed yarns with markedly reduced tens;le strength surpr;s;ngly show a smaller loss of strength after the doubl;ng process and an appropr;ate dyeing; the strength 20 ut;l;zat;on of the dyed multi-ply yarn ;s sign;f;cantly better than in the case of corresponding multi-ply yarns from material spun at low speed. In particular, however, after processing into a sewing yarn the yarns according to the invention have an unexpectedly h;gh seam strength and 25 unexpectedly improved processing properties. The measure used here ;s the so-called sew;ng length.
The process accord;ng to the ;nvent;on compr;ses a high-speed spin of h;gh-molecular polyesters where;n measures 30 known per se, such as, for example, heating of the jet, are to be used to obtain ideally no reduct;on of the mole-cular weight dur;ng sp;nning. The stabilizat;on tempera-ture of 225C and below makes ;t poss;ble to prepare the yarns according to the ;nvent;on on convent;onal stretch-35 ;ng apparatus. The stretch rat;o needs of course to beadapted to the higher preorientation of the feed yarns.
The advantages wh;ch are obta;nable through us;ng the feed yarns according to the invent;on are most read;ly apparent from the Examples. In the Examples, var;ous feed yarns were used and processed by doubllng ;nto sewing yarns.
The quant;t;es var;ed ;n the Examples were the average molecular weight of the f;lament-form;ng polyester and the preorientat;on, ;.e. the w;ndup speed of the f;laments dur;ng sp;nn;ng.
In th;s descr;pt;on the preor;entat;on ;s expressed ;n terms of the b;refr;ngence of the f;laments. The refer-ence extension (D45), i.e. the extension wh;ch is measured under 45 cN/tex, ;s used as a measure of the elast;c;ty of the f;laments. Unl;ke the ;n;t;al modulus, the reference extens;on ;s additionally also affected by the possible presence of a "shr;nkage saddle" ;n the stress-stra;n d;agram. The stress-stra;n d;agram of ther-momechan;cally fully shrunk f;laments shows to a lesser or h;gher degree after a customary steep r;se a marked extens;on of the mater;al even at reLat;vely low tens;le stresses. It ;s only at h;gher extens;on values that the curve r;ses further and then ends up at poss;bly s;m;lar values as the correspond;ng but unshrunk mater;al. In the case of a fully shrunk mater;al, however, the elonga-t;on at break value ;s at any rate s;gn;f;cantly h;gher.
The hot-air shrinkage S200 or S180 was determ;ned ;n accordance with DIN 53,866 at temperatures of 200 or 180C.
The sew;ng propert;es were determ;ned by means of a spec;-ally developed test method for which patent protect;on ;s being sought in an application of the same priority date. The measured variable used is a sewing test by means of an in-dustr;al sewing machine under standard;zed cond;t;ons.
The length of the seam produced perm;ts ;nferences about the su;tab;lity of a sew;ng yarn.
The ;ndustr;al sew;ng mach;ne used was suppl;ed by Pfaff with a needle of metr;c count 90; sew;ng took place w;th a double lock st;tch sett;ng of 5 stitches per centimeter and, in the standard case, at a sew;ng speed of 4,000 stitches per m;nute. The tens;on on the top thread ;s 175 to 180 cN, and the bottom thread ;s ;n th;s test a 13(~03f~1 good sew;ng thread ;n cotton. The tens;on on the bottom thread ;s set such that the loops disappear ;n the fabr;c mater;al tsat;sfactory seam appearance). The mater;al sewn ;s a 5-fold layer of cotton tw;ll hav;ng a we;ght per un;t area of 185 g/m2 and 95 warp and 50 weft threads per cent;meter. A standard weave for workwear from the f;rm of Nadler & Sohn, Augsburg, Art;cle No. 13960-80/2, dyed dark blue w;th Hydron Blue and sanfor;zed, was used.
The measured value, namely "sew;ng length", indicates the length of the seam in centimeters unt;l thread breakage and ;s a mean value from 10 sews per test bobb;n. The test procedure ;s term;nated when a measurement g;ves a sew;ng length of greater than 1,000 cm, s;nce from exper;-ence sew;ng lengths of above 1,000 cm under these cond;-t;ons are certa;nly ;nd;cat;ve of very good sewingproperties.
It is possible to make the sewing test more severe. In the more severe sew;ng test, the abovement;oned cond;t;ons are ma;ntained, except that the top thread now has a ten-sion of 220 cN and the number of stitches is 5,000 stitches/minute.
The seam strength is a further parameter for assess;ng the propert;es of sew;ng yarns. It ;s determ;ned by us;ng an ;ndustr;al sew;ng mach;ne, for example from Pfaff.
Mach;ne sett;ng: lock st;tch 5 st;tches per centimeter of seam length, 4,000 stitches/m;nute. The top and bottom threads are ;dent;cal ;n th;s test and compr;se the test sample. The thread tens;on sett;ng is optimized for good seam appearance, and sewing takes place on a twofold layer of cotton twi~l. The cotton tw;ll used was the same mater;al as used ;n the sew;ng length determ;nat;on. The seam strength ;s the max;mum tens;le force of a 5 cm w;de str;p. This tens;le force ;s determ;ned ;n a tens;le tester us;ng an operat;ng speed of 10 cm per m;nute. The value found ;s converted to the ;nd;v;dual thread.
The propert;es of sew;ng yarns can also be character;zed ~3(~036~
by means of the "number of rotations of an abrading knife", wh;ch were determ;ned by means of a mod;f;ed abra-s;on tester from the firm of Zweigle bearing the des;gna-t;on G 550 S, the rotat;ng test body having a hard-metal section abras;ve str;p. In each measurement, 20 yarn loops are placed on the ;nstrument and each is we;ghted w;th such a we;ght that the yarn tens;on ;s 0.135 cN/dtex.
The variable determined in each case is the number of abras;on revolut;ons wh;ch ;s necessary for abrad;ng through one of the 20 test loops used.
The follow;ng Examples are ;ntended to ;llustrate the ;n-vent;on ;n more detail. Parts and percentages are by we;ght, unless otherw;se stated.
Examples The f;laments were spun by melt;ng su;table polyethylene terephthalate mater;als ;n an extruder. If the polyester materials were of h;gh viscos;ty, the sp;n pack temperature was mainta;ned at 290C, but the jet temperature at 315C. In contrast, the spinning of lower-viscosity mater1al was effected at a spin pack and jet temperature of 295C. The jets used in either case had 32 holes.
After cooling down in the spinning cell the filaments were treated with a spin finish and then wound up at 800 or 1,000 m per minute or, in accordance with the ;nvent;on, at for example 3,000 m per m;nute.
The spin packages obtained were then presented to so-called three-godet machines, for example to an SZ 26 from the firm of Barmag. The multif;lament yarns are drawn there from the spin package and are looped for example 6 t;mes around a first godet where they are heated to the stretching temperature of customar;ly 87C and are then passed on to a second hot godet at the stabil;zation tem-perature. Between the first and second godet is the stretching zone. The stretch ratio used is dependent on the preorientation of the filaments. The ;nd;v;dual f;gures are g;ven ;n the Table below. After the stab;l;-zat;on godet, around wh;ch the yarn passes for example 10 times, the yarn is passed to a third godet wh;ch is custo-marily not heated. Between the second and the third godet the yarn material can be relaxed. The stretched yarns are subsequently wound up on cops. Under these conditions the yarn material has only rece;ved protective torque of about 10 turns per meter. Operat;ng speed when using SZ 26 mach;nes: 610 m/m;n. The yarn mater;al thus obta;ned 10 represents the feed yarns for the preparat;on of a sew;ng yarn.
The feed yarns need to be rewound onto feed packages. To test their propert;es they are then used to feed a LEZZENI
15 twisting/plying/twisting mach;ne of the TBR type. Th;s mach;ne operates at a speed of 10 m/m;n and produces a three-ply yarn wh;ch ;s des;gnated 138 dtex f 32 S 840 x 3 Z 540.
The multi-ply yarns obta;ned were subjected to an HT dye-20 ing at 135C for 120 m;nutes. The dyed yarn was subse-quently tested for ;ts text;le propert;es and ;n part;cu-lar for ;ts suitabil;ty as a sewing yarn. The measured values obtained are reproduced in the following Table.
13~0361 Example No. 1 Z 3 (Comparison) (Comparison) Relative viscosity of threads 2.03 2.03 1.93 Sp;n speed m/min3000 800 1000 ~;refr;ngence x10 3 44 ~10 ~lO
Stretch;ng temperature C 78 78 78 Stretch rat;o 1 . 2.0 4.84 4.75 Stabilization (set) t~era~C 220 225 225 Relaxation % 5.2 7.4 9.2 Values of feed yarns Denier dtex 138 120 138 Maximum tensile force cN 769 817 965 Tenacity cN/tex 55 68 69 Elongation at break % 19 21 17 Loop strength cN/tex 46 43 40 Reference extension D45 % 9.4 13 3 10.6 Heat shrinkage S 2007~ . 6.0 8.8 6.0 V2 lues of dyed yarns Maximum tensile forcecN 2250 2280 2560 Tenacity cN/tex 50 60 57 Elongation at break % 24 20 20 Loop strength ^N/t ex 38 42 35 Reference extension D45 96 14.7 l 9 3 15.3 Heat shrinkage S180 g 1.9 1.4 2.8 Strength utiLization % 97 93 88 (efficiency) Seam strength cN/tex 29 ~ 25 Sew;ng length, standard load cm ~1000 ~ 1000 640 Sew;ng length, h;gh load cm >1000 77 81 130Q36~
_ 9 _ The Table of the Examples reveals that the feed yarns prepared according to the invention ;n Example 1 have markedly lower strength than those which are in accordance with the state of the art, i.e. in particular those of Example 3. But it is not only the strength values of the feed yarns but also the multi-ply yarns prepared therefrom and then dyed which still have a lower tenacity than the state of the art. However, it is noteworthy that in the case of the yarns according to the invention the decrease of 10 the strength values is lower than for the state of the art material. That is particularly clear from considering the strength utilization, which is calculated as follows:
Maximum tensile force of the dyed Strength multi-ply yarn 15 utilization = ----------------------------------(efficiency) 3 x maximum tensile force of the feed yarns.
The difference in strength utilization of 97% in the case 20 of the yarns according to the invention compared with 88X
of the state of the art material is remarkable. It is even more remarkable, however, that the sewing yarns pre-pared from feed yarns which are in accordance with the invention have a better seam strength, but in particular 25 a signiflcantly improved sewing length, in particular under tougher conditions. This surprising improved fit-ness for purpose was in no way foreseeable and could not in particular be inferred from the values of the feed yarns or indeed from the physical values of the sewing 3û yarns prepared therefrom.
Claims (4)
1. A multifilament feed yarn from filament-forming polyesters for preparing high-strength multi-ply sewing yarns, which comprises a yarn having a heat shrinkage S200 of 5 to 7% combined with a reference extension (D45) at 45 cN/tex of less than 10% and the filament-forming polyester has a high average molecular weight correspond-ing to a relative solution viscosity (1.0 g of polymer in 100 ml of dichloroacetic acid at 25°C) of more than 2Ø
2. The feed yarn as claimed in claim 1, wherein the filament-forming substance comprises polyethylene tereph-thalate or a copolymer of polyethylene terephthalate with up to 5% by weight of copolymer units.
3. A process for preparing feed yarns as claimed in claim 1, which comprises melt-spinning a high-molecular filament-forming polyester with ideally no molecular weight loss in such a way that the filaments obtained still have a relative solution viscosity of more than 2.0, imparting to the filaments by means of high windup speeds a preorientation which corresponds to a birefring-ence of more than 0.030, and stretching the resulting multifilament yarns with a high stretch ratio and stabil-izing (setting) the multifilament yarns at a temperature of up to 225°C.
4. The process as claimed in claim 3, wherein the stretching and stabilization of the multifilament yarns is carried out on a godet machine having heatable godets.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DEP3431834.8 | 1984-08-30 | ||
| DE19843431834 DE3431834A1 (en) | 1984-08-30 | 1984-08-30 | HIGH-STRENGTH SUPPLY THREADS FOR SEWING YARNS AND METHOD FOR THEIR PRODUCTION |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1300361C true CA1300361C (en) | 1992-05-12 |
Family
ID=6244236
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000489635A Expired - Fee Related CA1300361C (en) | 1984-08-30 | 1985-08-29 | High-strength feed yarns for sewing yarns, and process for their preparation |
Country Status (6)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0173200B2 (en) |
| JP (1) | JPS6163713A (en) |
| AT (1) | ATE35003T1 (en) |
| BR (1) | BR8504164A (en) |
| CA (1) | CA1300361C (en) |
| DE (2) | DE3431834A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE3844615A1 (en) * | 1988-09-17 | 1990-03-22 | Amann & Soehne | Yarn, in particular sewing thread |
| DE3831700A1 (en) * | 1988-09-17 | 1990-03-22 | Amann & Soehne | METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A YARN, IN PARTICULAR A SEWING YARN, AND A YARN |
| DE3834139A1 (en) * | 1988-10-07 | 1990-04-19 | Hoechst Ag | TWO-COMPONENT LOOP SEWING YARN AND METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION THEREOF |
| DE4215016A1 (en) * | 1992-05-12 | 1993-11-18 | Amann & Soehne | High-strength sewing thread and method for producing such a sewing thread |
| ATE183783T1 (en) * | 1992-10-03 | 1999-09-15 | Hoechst Ag | CORE YARN CONTAINING A CORE MADE OF HIGH-STRENGTH POLYESTER MATERIAL AND METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION THEREOF |
| EP0591827B1 (en) * | 1992-10-03 | 1999-08-25 | Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft | Core yarn comprising a core of high-strength polyester material and method of manufacturing the same |
| KR100823892B1 (en) * | 2006-11-23 | 2008-04-21 | 삼성전자주식회사 | System for protecting right of digital contents and method thereof |
Family Cites Families (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2604667A (en) * | 1950-08-23 | 1952-07-29 | Du Pont | Yarn process |
| NL287359A (en) * | 1962-01-02 | |||
| DE2207849B2 (en) * | 1972-02-19 | 1976-04-01 | Metallgesellschaft Ag, 6000 Frankfurt | PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING TEXTURED, MOLECULAR ORIENTED FEEDS FROM POLYESTER OR POLYAMIDE |
| JPS5224066B2 (en) * | 1972-06-28 | 1977-06-29 | ||
| DE2254998B2 (en) * | 1972-11-10 | 1975-07-10 | Barmag Barmer Maschinenfabrik Ag, 5600 Wuppertal | Process for the production of cord from man-made fibers |
| JPS584089B2 (en) * | 1974-11-06 | 1983-01-25 | 帝人株式会社 | Polyester Senino Seizouhouhou |
| US4003974A (en) * | 1975-04-04 | 1977-01-18 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Continuous spin-drawing process for preparing polyethylene terephthalate yarns |
| US4134882A (en) * | 1976-06-11 | 1979-01-16 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Poly(ethylene terephthalate)filaments |
| US4630688A (en) * | 1981-06-24 | 1986-12-23 | Weatherford/Lamb, Inc. | Power spinner for rotating a kelly joint |
| JPS5837418A (en) * | 1981-08-31 | 1983-03-04 | Kunihiko Odaka | Soot and dust-free combustion and furnace therefore |
| JPS59150109A (en) * | 1983-02-15 | 1984-08-28 | Nippon Ester Co Ltd | Manufacture of high-tenacity polyester fiber |
| JPH05153019A (en) * | 1991-11-27 | 1993-06-18 | Nec Corp | Microwave multidirectional multiplex communication system |
-
1984
- 1984-08-30 DE DE19843431834 patent/DE3431834A1/en not_active Withdrawn
-
1985
- 1985-08-19 EP EP85110343A patent/EP0173200B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1985-08-19 AT AT85110343T patent/ATE35003T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1985-08-19 DE DE8585110343T patent/DE3563226D1/en not_active Expired
- 1985-08-29 CA CA000489635A patent/CA1300361C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1985-08-29 JP JP60188730A patent/JPS6163713A/en active Pending
- 1985-08-29 BR BR8504164A patent/BR8504164A/en not_active IP Right Cessation
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| BR8504164A (en) | 1986-06-24 |
| JPS6163713A (en) | 1986-04-01 |
| EP0173200A3 (en) | 1986-05-28 |
| DE3563226D1 (en) | 1988-07-14 |
| EP0173200B1 (en) | 1988-06-08 |
| DE3431834A1 (en) | 1986-03-06 |
| EP0173200A2 (en) | 1986-03-05 |
| EP0173200B2 (en) | 1993-09-01 |
| ATE35003T1 (en) | 1988-06-15 |
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