CA1195802A - Method of fabricating two layer cups and brassiere - Google Patents

Method of fabricating two layer cups and brassiere

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Publication number
CA1195802A
CA1195802A CA000409284A CA409284A CA1195802A CA 1195802 A CA1195802 A CA 1195802A CA 000409284 A CA000409284 A CA 000409284A CA 409284 A CA409284 A CA 409284A CA 1195802 A CA1195802 A CA 1195802A
Authority
CA
Canada
Prior art keywords
layer
cup
area
cups
brassiere
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
CA000409284A
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Raymond Kennedy
Raymond Cole
Lincoln Mccluskey
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
International Playtex Inc
Original Assignee
International Playtex Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by International Playtex Inc filed Critical International Playtex Inc
Priority to CA000409284A priority Critical patent/CA1195802A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CA1195802A publication Critical patent/CA1195802A/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)

Abstract

A BRASSIERE WITH TWO-LAYER BREAST
CUPS AND A METHOD FOR ITS
MANUFACTURE

ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
The brassiere has a support frame including a pair of breast cups and a pair of torso-encompassing portions, and shoulder straps. The cups are molded from two layers of stretchable material by molding first the crown portion, in-verting the materials and then molding the remainder of the cup. The resulting cups have a non-stretchable crown portion and are substantially non-stretchable longitudinally at the remainder of the cups and stretchable multi-directionally at said support frame.

Description

~358~2 MET~O~ OF FARRICATING TWO LAYER CUPS & BRA
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates generally to brassiere~ and more ~pecifically to a method ~f making an S improved bras~iere cup which inc~udes a shape supporting panel i~ the cup.
These shape supporting panels in the cup whlch form less than t~e full three dimensional structure o the cup are well known. Similarly the problems in fabricating such cups a~e also well known as ~escribed in U.S. Pa~ent 4,172,002 to &luckin. As a solution to the prior art problems, Gluckln suggests ~mi nating the support panel to a tharmoplastic supp~rt material and then adhering both t~ a ply of materlal from which the complete cup is to be formedO The three layer composite lamina is then molded to form the complete cup over a hot molding die. Although Gluckin solves the problem o the prior art o puckering or wrinkling of the material~ the use o~ the thermoplastic support material and the heating to ~reate a bo~d creates a stiff breast cup of undesirable handO
Another pxoblem with the Gluckin mekhod is that t~e support panel acts as a thermal insulator ko the extent that the outside layer is not evenly heated. This causes uneven stretching of the outside layer during molding which unevenly rhanges the characteristics and thickness of the outside layer. Thu~, the thickness of the cup will vary since the outside layer in the three-layered portions is not reduced as much as it i8 in the two-layered portions.
Glucki~ deals specifically with polyasters ~ersus stretchable materials and thus does not consider the problem of molding two layers of stretchable materials over an open male mold. Even though Gluckin discusses molding using a male mold on one side, the same problem would exist for the center layer of three layers using both a male and female mold simultaneously.
Other prior art techniques of forming a composite cup having a support patch include molding the patch and the brassiere cup separately and then joining them by sewing along the periphery of the patch. Since the two layers are molded separately, they ~annot always be matched in the post-molded condition and thus undesire-able wrinkles and creases are produced.
With the fashion trend to the natural look, the number of seams and stiff portions of a brassiere must be reduced to a minimum. Thus, it is desirable to make as may pieces unitary thereby eliminating seams.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
An object of the present invention is to provide a two-layer molded brassiere cup of increased hand.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a two-layer molded breast cup without the need of prior lamination of the layers.
A further object of the present invention is to provide a two-layer molded ~reast cup with varying stretch characteristics along the longitude of the cup.
Still another object of the present invention is to provide a brassiere incorporating a two-layer molded breast cup of increased hand.
An even further ob~ect of the present invention is to provide a two-layer molded brassiere cup having ùniform thickness along each layer of the cup.
A still further object of the present invention is to provide a brassiere having the minimum number of seams.

~95~3~2 These and other objects of the invention are attained, in a brassiere having a support frame including a pair of breast cups and a pair of torso-encompassing portions, and shoulder straps, by providing a first layer of material forming a substan-tial portion of each oE said breast cups and Eorming a portion of said support frame, and a second layer oE material forming said breast cups, said suppor-t frame and said torso-encompassing por-tions, said first layer being attached to said second layer at the periphery of said first layer, and said first and second layers being non-stretchable at the crown of said cups, substantially non-stretchable longitudinally at the remainder of said cups, and stretchable multi-directionally at said support frame.
The invention also resides in a method of making the brassiere cup comprising in a first molding step, molding a first area of said first layer and the juxtaposed area of said second layer with one of said first and second layers contacting a heated male mold to form the crown of the cup, and, in a second molding step~ molding a second area of said first and second layers includ-ing said first area with the other of said first and second layers contacting a heated male mold to form the remainder of the cup.
The first layer may be cut to have an area less than the full area of the to-be-formed cup and is attached around its peri-phery to the second layer. The second layer may be cut to form a unitary breast cup, support frame and torso-encompassing portion.
It is then joined at a lateral edge with a second unitary breast cup, support frame and torso-encompassing section to form a complete brassiere. Elastomeric trim is attached to the upper ` -:

s~oæ
-3a~
edges of the second layer and a continuous elastom~ric band is attached along the bottom of the joined second layers. Fasteners are attached to the other lateral edges of the second layer, and shoulder straps are attached to the second layer.
Other objects, advantages and novel features of the present invention will become evident from the detailed description of the invention when considered in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
Figure 1 is a perspective view of the first and second layers prior to attachment.
Figure 2 is a plan view of the first and second layers after attachment illustrating the first and second clamping areas.
Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view illustrating the first molding step incorporating the principles of the present invention.
Figure 4 is a cross-sectional view illustrating the second molding step incorporating the principles of the v~i ~195~2 present invention.
Figure 5 is a front elevational view of a brassiere constructed in accordance with the present invention with the torso-encompassing portion shown turned into the plane of the front portion thereof.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
The method of fabricating a two-layer molded breast cup begins as illustrated in Figure 1 with a first layer 10 cut to form less than the full area of the to-be-formed cup positioned on a second layer 12 which is larger than the area of the to-be-formed cup. The first layer 10 is attached to the second layer 12 about its periphery preferably by stitching 14 as shown in Figure
2. The first layer 10 and the second layer 12 are chosen to be of multi-directional stretch material or fabric which includes Spandex (trademark) or other heat-treatable stretchable polymers. One such fabric is Ilycra (trademark). It should be noted that other methods of attaching the two layers together may be used, for example, bonding the first layer about its periphery to the second layer.
As noted previousl~, the use of adhesive or other bonding techni-ques may be undesirable since it decreases the softness and addssome rigidity to the final structure and thus decreases the hand.
Although the present description will be directed to the first layer being cut to form less than the full cup area, the method of the present invention is applicable to any two-layer stretch fabric cup construction. The first layer can be cut to have an area equal to the total cup area or even the same area as the second layer.
For purpose of clarity, a first dotted area A is shown in Figure 2 defining the crown portion of the to-be-formed cup. A second dotted line illustrates the second area Bwhich is the total area used to form the total cup.
The two layers 10 and 12 are clamped in a frame having two clamping members 16 and 1~ with an open:ing deEining ~915~Z

the area A marked in Figure 2. The clamped material is then placed over a first heated male mold 20 so that the mold strekches the material as illustrated in Figure 3. The temperature of the mold and the timing of the molding are selected such that the elastomeric material or Eabric layers 10 and 12 in the crown area A have been stretched to their maximum and the heating setting of this area has just started. The clamping members 16 and 18 confine the stretching or molding of the material to the crown area A
thereby defining the crown of the breast cup. However, even after the completion of the first molding step, there is some degree of stretch remaining in the crown area A and this stretch is easy and about in balance with the single ply area of the cup. It should be noted that during the first molding step of Figure 3, the second fabric material 12 is against the mold 20 with the first fabric layer 10 not in contact with the mold 20. For a Lycra fabric, the first molding period is in a range of 5 to 10 seconds with the male mold have a temperature in the range of about 388F. to 395F.
The two layers of material 10 and lZ are then re-moved from the clamp frame 16 and 18, inverted and placed in a second clamp frame having members 22 and 24. The second clamp frame has an opening defining the area B illustrated in Figure 2.
This area B defines the base of the finally formed breast cup.
The frames 22 and 24 are then lowered onto a second heated male mold 20'with the first layer of fabric 10 against the mold 20'. This stretches the fabric layers 10 and 12 in the area B with the frames 22 and 24 li~iting the Sl L~L~h to this area B. The molding period is in the range of 20 and 35 secondswith the tem~erature irlthe range of about 392F. to 4Q0F.
Since the crown area A has been substantially pre-formed in the previous molding step, there is almost no addi-tional stretching of the crown. This allows a more evenly divided stretch force along the area between the crown portion A and the periphery s. Thus, the cup has a more evenly defined shape. By molding the crown portion first, the stress along this por-tion is 5~

-5a-more evenly divided and thus the undesirable thinning at the apex of the crown is avoided.
By inverting the composite material between the .' ;,!

S~2 first and second molding s~ep~ the layer~ lO and 12 in the crown area both are subjected to substantially the same amount of heat. Thus, they have uniform structure. If thi~ did not take place, the layer of material closest to the~7~1d w~uld s~t fa6ter and harder which is undesirable.
The combined double molding process of the present invention produces a cup having a crown and remainder of cup portions of differe~t stretch characteristics than the original material or fabric. The crown portion A is non-stretchable and the remainder of the cup portion, between the crown por-tion A and the periphery B, iS non-stretchable in the longi-tu~;n~] direction indicated by the arrow L in Figure 4 while having stretchability in the transverse direction indicated by the arrow T. The remainder of the first and second layers external to the area ~ maintain the multi-directional stretchability. This specific combination of multiple layers of matarial and their selected degrees of stretchability pro-duce a very uni~ue cupO The crown portion being non-stretch-able provides shape to the crown portion of the cup. The 2~ remainder of the cup being non-stretchable in the longitudinal direction provides support and uplift in the cup and also the stretchability in the transverse directions allows for adjus~ability for the size of the cup. This is needed since most ~7omen are not truly a given cup size. The remainder of the frame being stretchable in the multi-direction allows the remainder of the material to be used as a support ~rame a~d thus alleviates one of the major seams in a brassiere in construction, namely the seam that attaches the cup to its support frame.
It should be noted that although the process is illustrated wherein the second layer 12 is first applied against the mold and then inverted with the first layer 10 finally being against the mold, these may be reversed. Since the first layer or support patch 10 is to be on the interior of the finally formed cup, it is preferred that it be against the mold in the final or second molding step.
Although the processes of Figures 3 and 4 ~7ere illustrated using two male molds 20 and 20', the first mold merely has the shape of the crown and the second mold being the shape of the total cup, it is evident that a single mold may be used. The process of Figures 3 and 4 would be carried out on a single male mold by lowering the clamping frames down a first depth to de~ine first the crown in ~he first mold-lng step and after inverting and reclamping, lowering the clamping frame down a second depth greater than the first depth to form the full cup portion in the ~econd molding step.
The presen~ process can be carried out on a standard male molding machine.
Although it is preferred that the base layer 12 be relatively large to facilitate clamping during the moldi~g process and the subsequent cutting to form the shape of the ~5 unitary breast cup, support frame and torso-encompassing portion, the layer 12 may be cut prior to molding if so desired.
The unique two-layer molded cup fabricated according to Figures 1-4 may bQ used to form a brassiere having unique characteristics. Referring to Figure 5, a brassiere 30 is shown having a pair of bust assemblies 32 and 34. Each bust assembly include~ a unitary layer 36 forming the breast cup, support frame, and torso-encompassin~ portion. A patch 38 is attached to the interior of the cup by stitching 40 and ~orms almost all o the lower cup portion and a substantial portion of the upper cup portion as well as a lower portion of the support ~rame, The upper portions of layer 36 forming the support frame have attached thereto elastomeric trim 42 and 44O
The lowex inner lateral edg~ of the bust assemblies 32 and 34 are joined by a medium pan~l 46 which is illustrated as an open net pattern. The continuous elastomeric hand ~8 is attached along the bottom edge of the support frame of the joined bust assemblies 32 and 34. Complementary fasteners, for example, hook and eyes 50 and 52 are attached to the exterior lateral edge of the layer 36 which forms the torso-encompassing portion.
A pair of shoulder strap~ 54 are connected t9 t~ top ll~S~Z

portion of the single layer 36 of the support frame direc~ly or through a highly elastomeric portion 56. The other ~nd of the strap 54 is connected through a ring 58 to the torso-encompassing portion of the layer 36O An adjustabl~ element 60 ~s provided on the strap 54.
It should be noted that although the brassiere ~llustrated in Figure 5 shows the breast cup assemblies 32 and 34 joined in the center by the panel 46 and the comple-mentary fasteners 50 and 52 ak the opposite lateral edyes, t~e fastener6 may be provided in the center and the torso-~ncompassing p~rtions secured together at their end. Also, the cup assemblies 32 and 34 may be jolned directly to each other without center panel 46/
As can ~e seen by an examination of the ~rassiere 30 of Figure 5, there are no seams on the bra cup, support frame or torso-encompassing section except for along the edges w~erein the elastomeric trim or band are attached other than tha thin stitching attaching the patch 38 to the layer 36. Thus~ the amount of undesirable seams and stitchings have been ellmlnated. By using the unique process of Flgureg 1-4, a unltary bra cup, support frame and torso-encompassiny port~on are provided which have the same structural support and give of prior art brassieres without the undesirable appearances of prior art brassieres.
From the preceding description of the pxeferred embodiments, it is evident that the objects of th~ invention are attained in that a unique process for fabricating a breast cup and a resulting brassiere are shown. Although the inven~
tion has been described and illustrated in detail, it is alearly understood that the same is by way of example and illustration only and is not to be taken by ~ay o~ lLmitation.
The spirit and scope of the present invention are to be limit~d only by the terms of the appended claims.
-

Claims (6)

THE EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION IN WHICH AN EXCLUSIVE
PROPERTY OR PRIVILEGE IS CLAIMED ARE DEFINED AS FOLLOWS:
1. In a brassiere having a support frame including a pair of breast cups and a pair of torso-encompassing portions, and shoulder straps, the improvement comprising:
a first layer of material forming a substantial portion of each of said breast cups and forming a portion of said support frame, and a second layer of material forming said breast cups, said support frame and said torso-encompassing portions, said first layer being attached to said second layer at the periphery of said first layer, and said first and second layers being non-stretchable at the crown of said cups, substantially non-stretchable longitudinally at the remainder of said cups, and stretchable multi-directionally at said support frame.
2. A brassiere according to Claim 1, characterized by the fact that the first layer is substantially triangular and forms almost all of the lower portion of the breast cup and a substantial portion of the upper portion of the breast cup.
3. A method of making the brassiere cup according to Claim 1 characterized by: in a first molding step molding a first area of said first layer and the juxtaposed area of said second layer with one of said first and second layers contacting a heated male mold to form the crown of the cup; and in a second molding step molding a second area of said first and second layers including said first area with the other of said first and second layers contacting a heated male mold to form the remainder of the cup.
4. A method according to Claim 3, characterized by the fact that first area is sufficiently stretched and heated during the first molding step to form a dual layer cup having a non-stretch-able crown.
5. A method according to Claim 4, characterized by the fact that the second area is sufficiently stretched and heated during the second molding step to form a dual layer cup having substan-tially no longitudinal stretch.
6. A method according to any one of claims 3-5, characterized by carrying out the first molding step for 5-10 seconds at a temperature of 388-395°F. and the second molding step for 20-35 seconds at a temperature of 392-400°F.
CA000409284A 1982-08-12 1982-08-12 Method of fabricating two layer cups and brassiere Expired CA1195802A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CA000409284A CA1195802A (en) 1982-08-12 1982-08-12 Method of fabricating two layer cups and brassiere

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CA000409284A CA1195802A (en) 1982-08-12 1982-08-12 Method of fabricating two layer cups and brassiere

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CA1195802A true CA1195802A (en) 1985-10-29

Family

ID=4123387

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CA000409284A Expired CA1195802A (en) 1982-08-12 1982-08-12 Method of fabricating two layer cups and brassiere

Country Status (1)

Country Link
CA (1) CA1195802A (en)

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